This is the LATEST pump I recommend for this engine (fits all 3v engines 2004-2014)- amzn.to/2IBcqKG This flex head is an absolute must- amzn.to/28Sl1s3 Once installed switching to 5w-30 oil is recommended- amzn.to/3iqB3wT Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software: Download Here- forscan.org/home.html ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend- amzn.to/2GC6dBj As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I went to the Amazon link for the m360 and it says this item does not fit your vehicle and says the m10340 does. I've got an 08 f150 fx4 with 5.4L 3v v8, what's the difference? which s should I get?
Just an additional little tip I have found when changing a GM oil pump and it would apply to the Ford as well. Loosen the oil pick up tube bolts to where about 5 threads are showing. Loop and twist a piece of safety wire around the bolts and twist until semi tight. This will reduce the likelihood of the bolts falling down into the oil pan, or if they do, you can pull them right out and not have to drop the oil pan.
Great tip! Also not a bad idea to place some sort of rag or small towel in the pan to prevent a falling screw from disappearing into the pan. If one does, just have a telescoping magnet retriever and no problem getting it.
This series on changing the timing/oil pump has helped me out tremendously!! I'm gradually getting everything that I need and plan to do the repair myself. I'm not new to changing parts on my truck but this one will be the most in depth repair I will have completed! I feel very confident with having watched your video Brian. Thanks SO much!!
Working on mine as we speak, been a SLOW process with how little free time I have, but it is slowly being done right at least. Definitely thanks to this video series.
I must say I have watched your videos over and over as I do my 2003 F150 5.4l and this step was by far the most difficult at getting that little bolt in!! LOL You make everything look so easy, I had a blown cylinder head and your 4 part engine timing chain replacement has helped me so much. the only difference is I took it one set farther and removed the cylinder heads. I thought well is was at it i may as well change the oil pump and water pump, I am glad I did but....dam that bolt!! Thank you for posting these wonderful videos to help us DIY people!!! I will mention I am a 53 yr old women and getting the job done thanks to your videos!!
Homesteading 101 2003 is a 2v 5.4L as far as i know- i have a 2002 5.4L 2v - which oil pump did you use? I cant seem to find a definitive answer from anywhere on whether or not i can use this melling upgraded hi flow one.
After fighting with that inside bolt for about a couple hours I called the wife thinking with her having smaller fingers she'd be able to get the bolt started. But like me, she was having difficulty getting it to catch on the 1st couple of threads. So being the out of box thinker that she is, she went to my son's room and got his 3" squishy ball and inserted that under the bolt hole, got the bolt in, and then I was able to rotate and get the bolt started. After that, I kept the ball in place while tightening it down with the 8mm flex head. As for set up, we stuff a bath or kitchen hand towel down into the front of the oil pan, up against some other internal pan structure. We let some of the towel hang out on the right hand side so it could be pulled out later. The purpose for the towel was to give the ball something to butt up against and so it would stay in place and of course, not allow it to fall or get stuck in the pan. After all said down, I pulled out the ball, the towel, and then double checked and cleared out any remaining debris with said towel. Worked like a charm! If there was a way, I'd upload a pic of the setup. Hopefully this will help out the next person.
You are quickly becoming my go to 5.4L ford guy! Thanks for the great info. I thought I had the 3 valve engine, but learned after your timing chain video that my 04 F250 is two valve. Thanks again.
thanks for this video...one thing I did to get that lower pickup tube bolt in was to wrap it a few times with string...set it in the ratchet box end, poke it into the hole and pull the string like staring a lawn mower. Thing went right in there!
Thanks to this guy I’m doing the repairs on my 3v. Just threw a timing chain and now I’m stuck doing it myself ( I don’t trust mechanics around my area ) but hardest part is remembering all the connectors of wiring😂
I just used my ratcheting 8mm wrench to fish the lower pickup tube bolt into the hole. Had to fiddle and make several attempts but eventually I got it to stay in the hole and was able to start threading it with my fingers, then the wrench. No special tricks to it, took about 15 minutes; patients is key. Also if anyone is just replacing the oil pump gears like me, I had some trouble getting the gear in the pump to line up with the crankshaft notches. So I took my old gear, put it over the crankshaft and marked it at the 12'oclock, then took it off and used to it align the gear in the pump. A little bit of wiggle and it slid right on.
I had trouble aligning the flats on the crankshaft with the new pump as well. I used a different approach that worked for me. I put the new pump on the crank and then used a socket and ratchet to rotate the crank until the new pump slid into place.
I know that there are a ton of helpful comments here but I thought I would add to this awesome volume of helpful info. 1st, yes those two bolts for the pickup tube will be a pain in the butt, just face the reality now and continue on. Make sure you have a flippy/swivel open ended wrench and you should be ok. I found that the lower harder to get at one almost wanted to cross thread on me so I had to make sure the other bolt was loose enough to allow movement of the pick up tube. 2nd, Priming the pump. This is where I struggled. I left the crank sensor unplugged and did the running with the starter only thing and never got any oil pressure. I even removed the oil filter to see if any oil had made to that and it did not. I found a very short video that was put out by Melling on just this problem. They advised to prefill the oil filter and also to use what ever means to push oil into the lower squarish hole where the oil filter mounts to. You pump, squeeze, shove whatever you can do to force oil back into this opening. what you are doing is pushing oil back into the oil pump. Once I did this it only took another 5-10 seconds of turning the engine with the starter to get oil pressure. I was questioning everything that I did when I was not getting oil pressure. I was fearing that I was going to have to tear back into the engine again. Verify each step while doing the job and trust the method of priming. You will be fine.
Just finished installing the new M360HV. Yes, it was a beast of a job. As shown in the video the 8mm flex is a must and with the assistance of a topside creeper made it more manageable. I did have one secret weapon. I sub-contracted the hard to reach pickup tube bolt to my 11 yr. old daughter. Together we got it done! I've seen a lot of back and forth between the M360HV and M340HV. At the time (July/Aug) I was gathering all the tools and parts needed for the job, it seemed like the M360HV was advertised pretty heavily. With that, I'm not going back in and swapping out the 360 with the 340. At this point, it is what it is.
@@A.C.71 The oil pump, power steering and the oil pressure sending unit were hard. I have a 4x4 so the clearances we're tight. Getting the pump off was easy. Putting it on was challenging but the bolts on the pickup tube are hard. Took me awhile, but I'm a novice.
@@EVRY1STFU I'm thinking he meant 15 minutes once the from cover was off. I'm curious how much time the entire job from start to finish takes the average guy. About how long did it take?
@@A.C.71 I'm below average. Meaning that was the most I worked on a vehicle in terms of technicality. It took me longer than most. I work a full-time plus type job and I had to contend with 3 family emergencies. I also dealt with a counterfeit tool from Amazon....so that slowed me down significantly. I also inspected all parts and tools 20 times over. I called several Ford dealerships to compare part numbers etc & dealt with Amazon fraud department. I could probably do the job in 3-4 days comfortably now that I have a little experience. Some guys on his videos get it done over the weekend. Brian quoted me 1.5 days, but he's a master mechanic with a nice garage setup. Overall, it's a good bit of work.
@@EVRY1STFU oh ok so it's a massive job. In the video he kinda makes it sound like once the cover is off it takes just 10-15 minutes. It doesn't look like he dropping the oil pan either. So that gave me the impression once the cover is off which isn't very hard it just takes 15 minutes to change the oil pump out.
I’m a ford guy but some stuff they do drives me nuts. The 3 valve had great potential but they knocked it back with something as simple as a weak oil pump and timing chain tensioners.
Just wanted to say thanks for the great tutorial. One tip I have for others having a hard time with the rear bolt is to take two minutes to make a wrench out of a thin piece of sheet metal. Use tin snips to cut a metal strip 3/4" wide by 6" long then lay the open end of an 8mm wrench at the top 3/4" side to trace and cut the 8mm opening. Now you have a very thin flexible wrench that you can use to overcome the steep angle of the rear bolt during its initial installation. As you insert this flexible wrench you can use the same finger you are using to hold the rear bolt in place to guide it. I fought with this rear bolt for over 2 hours before trying the above and then was able to install the rear bolt in literally minutes.
A year later and this gem of advice saved me likely hours of frustration. I made the wrench like you said but I also made a “wing nut” to slide onto the screw head to help with getting it started. I cut a very thin strip (barely wider than the screw head itself is tall) by maybe an inch and a half long. Folded it tight into thirds, think like a paper clip not a Z. Then jammed a screwdriver in the middle and twisted until it opened up enough to fit tightly over the screw head. Kinda looked like this when it was done . Made it easier to start the threads and turn the screw with one finger. Pulled right off then the flexible wrench did the rest. A heartfelt thank you 🍺
FordTechMakuloco, I'm finally changing out all of the timing components at 366K miles. Had slap at startup and some light ticking noises. Found broken guide on left side and one bad lash adjuster and two rough followers. Engine never had a wrench on it except for mine. Did change plugs twice myself with no problems. And regular oil changes every 5K miles with non-synthetic 5-30W since 10K, might be why it has lasted. Tip for installing the Melling 360 that I can offer...put a rag under the front to catch the bolt when it gets dropped around 10 times trying to put the back one in! What worked for me was using a long tie wrap around the bolt while starting the threads, it offers some resistance while threading it with the flex head gear wrench. Great videos by the way. BTW, I must have lucked out because I'm not really having most of the problems with the 3V that others experience.
Thanks so much for the video. It's a shame that taking the time to do things with pride is the exception. Your video's are priceless to people who have dealt with dealerships who put profits before pride.I'm a fan, keep the videos coming.
One quick tip for those who have big paws like me. I was fighting this all day until I decided to use a hemostat to hold the inboard pickup bolt and thread it into the hole. Don't clamp the bolt until the hemostat locks, just gently hold it just below the head of the bolt and then snake the bolt in the hole. Once in the hole, just use one finger to push on the head of the bolt to get it to start meshing into the threads, and with continuous pressure from ones finger on the head of the bolt, gently release the bolt with the hemostat and reposition it after each counterclockwise turn (as viewed from above, since the bolt is inverted). This will tighten the bolt until one gets to the last few turns. By this time the gentle grip by the hemostat starts to slip, which means a swivel ratchet as suggested in this video will now have enough resistance to start clicking and finish the job. Hope this helps someone.
Hi Bran, great videos. I have a 2007 f-150 5.4l 3v. It has just happened under 140,000 miles. Will be replacing timing/oil pump (Melling M360VH), and rockers. All OEM except pump. I am acquiring the tools and parts you recommend little by little. Probably will have everything by the end of March. I am not a machanic but have sent you videos and feel confident. I just finished changing the plugs and and coils (Motorcraft). I was lucky and none broke. Thank you so much for your indepth vedios...they're great.
Where was this video 6 months ago! I lost the passenger side cam and last lifter. 1 month later I found out the guides were bad and replaced the chains/guides/tensioners. Everyone said the cross member and pan had to come off, so I did not do it! The chains were not bad it was mainly due to the guide failing. Mine is 2 wheel drive. Thanks for the video.
Brian...........I am a Godly man but I made up new curse words on those pick-up tube bolts.lol..... I'm going back together now so ill let you know how everything goes when im done. Thanks sincerely for all the great advise and vids! You are a blessing to so many people. I pray that a lot of people donate or order shirts etc.....
Local Ford dealership says the whole engine needs to come out to replace the oil pump, mentioned how you did it in this video and they still tried to argue with me and say the engine needs pulled lol.
I once put a high pressure oil pump on my Camaro. I should have read the instructions. It was for race cars that run thin oil. It blew gaskets\seals out all over the place. As it reached 90 PSI... When it was designed for 45 PSI...
I haven't tried this yet... But I think the GEARWRENCH 85608 Locking Flex Head 8mm combo wrench would work better for this job. Because then you can use it to push the screw up into the hole without it flexing to the point of loosing the screw. Then you wont need to use the cats claw to put pressure on the end.
You can also invert the pump and pour oil down the inlet and turn the rotor until it comes out the outlet w/o removing the cover. Great time saving video Brian!
+Hayward's Automotive True but I like to give a visual to make sure it's machined right and no problems before putting it on plus I squirt a little in the regulator ports.
555k subscribers for quality installation and info that not one local mechanic wants you to hear because he wants to charge you double the price and use parts from the junk yard. Makuloco deserves better
First timing job took me like 45 minutes to get that right oil pickup screw in. One of the hardest bolts ever. Second timing job on another 5.4 only took 10 minutes. One difference was the flex head wrench I used the first time was too loose. This time I use a wrench with a stiffer hinge. Was able to hold the bold in place netter. And of course the cat claw is necessary too. After I got it started, I moved the catcall to the other side of the wrench and finished it off.
Just want to say thanks for all the videos. They've been very helpful in fixing my truck. Couldn't have done it without you. Thanks and keep em coming....
Mine was done after 220,000 and phasers, chains, guides, etc.....my mechanic switched me to 10w40. Plus every other oil change a quart of Lucas stabilizer.......truck runs good and engine tight!!!
Thank you Brian for awesome videos! Also, my new Melling pump did not prime by cranking from just the starter, I had to actually start the engine, and the oil came up on the gauge very quickly, within a couple of seconds.
Have learned from many of your videos that Amazon is the best place to get good prices on auto parts. Never would have thought to look there. Thanks, parts are expensive enough even at the best price available.
Agreed pump can be removed without oil pan removal, but every one I have had to do the chain guides are sitting in the oil pan, tough to fish them pieces from the front cover. Great videos, it does amaze me how you have time to produce quality videos and pull wrenches at the same time. Dedication!
I really wish I would have known this back in 2014. I did phasers, chains, tensioners, VCT solenoids on my dad's F-250. Didn't put an oil pump on it. 1300 miles later, it spun a rod bearing. Would have been cheap insurance, but instead I still have to put a motor in it.
Did this over the weekend, and it turned into a 3 hours job. I thought we had rags in the pan and we didn't. So when I dropped one of the bolts, it went down into the pan and under the baffle, so we had to drop the pan.
If any chain guides have broken. You want to remove the pan for sure even if you could remove any debris most all of it will be stuck into the pickup screen. If your doing the job as preventive maintenance then ya you can just swap out the pump. Pans are easy to remove even for the 4wd models.
@@richardwilson117 it's not that hard. Maby if you live in the rust belt it might be but you still got to do it or you won't have enough oil pressure to run the phasers and if your oil filter gets plugged and goes into bypass mode then those pieces can plug the passage in the head that provides the oil. Do it right or buy a engine.
I wish you would have started from the beginning showing how you removed the front cover and most importantly how you removed the timing chain and tensioner that was in front covering over the oil pump itself. I have a 2005 Ford F150 XLT 4X4 5.4 3 V Triton engine with 55, 000 miles on it and I am thinking about just replacing the oil pump itself, not all of the other components, because of the low mileage. BTW IMHO you are the best that is out there, love your detailed explanations.
@@FordTechMakulocoGlad to do it bud! Popped a question in just before this post regarding your recommendation on a 340HV or 360HV for my application. What are your thoughts?
@@FordTechMakuloco It's worth it..... not only are you saving people money..... As well as educating everyone .... But quite simply , these vids are great value .
lol i like how you didnt show that last bolt going in the pick up tube. i ended up dropping the oil pan an inch or so and i could fit my fingers in there a lot easyer.
I have to do a timing service on my brothers f250 I inherited after he passed. Your videos have been super helpful especially this one and the 4 part video. Thanks
2 Things I would like to point out is: 1 An it never hurts to put an anaerobic sealer on the oil passage mating surface. And 2, If the guides have come apart, more often then not, pieces end up in the bottom of the oil pan and can get sucked up into the pickup. That being said, I get the commission benefits of not taking off the oil pan, however comebacks are a killer.
Hot tip for the right/aft pickup tube bolt, after struggling for an hour: his method worked the best but first get the bolt as far into the hole as possible by supporting with the gear wrench in your right hand, and holding the threads nearest the head with some pliers to prevent dropping while you work it into the hole. Then switch out the pliers for the cat claw for bottom support. You need to insert the bolt at a more extreme angle than you might think to avoid cross-threading. If you feel much resistance at all before the very end, STOP and start over with a steeper entry angle.
Great job on the video. Love all your stuff, honestly on this one I tried to get the bolt back into the pick up tube for an hour. then I jacked up the truck and took off the oil pan in 15 min and bolted that bastard on.
Love how detailed you are! Thank you for all your in depth videos. Cause of u, I rediagnosed my previous diagnosis and found that the right bank has a spun cam cap and plugged the bearing journals causing p0012 and p0016. Oh, its an 08 f150 5.4 3v 135,000 miles. Owner drove it with very low oil level for an extended period. Again, I appreciate your in depth videos! Sincerely, jays automotive repair of edmond Oklahoma!
I just did this job in an 07 Navigator before you start cussing and throwing stuff in your garage, just take a few extra minutes to loosen the bolts on your oil pan just enough so that the pan drops about half to 1 inch. You will be able to get both bolts on the pick up tube by hand.
I have a 1998 mercury grand marquis with the 4.6 liter engine when I bought it the car had 89k and I have had it for 3 yrs and it has 278k and still going power to ford
These Fords don't actually have an oil PRESSURE gauge, instead Ford came up with a wierd switch system. If the pressure reaches a point that Ford thinks is sufficient, the switch closes and the dashboard indicator moves. The sending unit (switch) is located just behind the oil filter. You can remove the sender, replace it with a "T" and put it back on the end of the "T". The side port can be used to run a line up to a real oil pressure gauge on your dashboard.
I did the full timing restoration melling 360 HV pump all the roller follower fingers and spark plugs on my moms 06 king ranch expedition using all ford gaskets and timing components. I also updated the oil to 5W30. What a difference it made not just performance but fuel economy too. Its a 2 wheel drive car and now the only problem is that the 1st gear clutch in the 4R75WE is almost gone at 140k miles. That seams odd since we dont tow anything heavy or thrash the car.
After watching your vid, I pulled the oil pump on my truck to replace it with the 360. My stock oil pump had a complete blockage in one of the oil passages. Is this something you've seen before? I change oil regularly. The truck has 150k miles on it, and was running fine, but I decided to tear into it before I began having issues. I also found the gaskets on each chain tensioner were in the process of failing. Your vids saved me an engine.
Normal for the 5.4 3v. I love my Fords but you cannot ignore the fact that the 5.4 3v has some serious design flaws. One is the head design,it accumulates sludge and eventually circulates it. One reason why I tell people do not run engine cleaner through that engine. Youll circulate the sludge even more. You have to physically remove the valve covers and do it by hand.
The 5.4 does have its problems but I’ll tell you what it’s got no where near the issues that the 4.7 Chrysler motor does lol. How about the fact that rain water collects under the intake manifold in the valley rots the dipstick tube and then fills the oil full of water. That’s a pretty neat trick. People these days don’t take care of their stuff they don’t do regular maintenance I only know that cause I just finished pulling one out of a Durango that had the main bearings spun cause there was more water then oil it proceeded to take out all the lifters and the rod bearings just an absolute joy
I would recommend pulling the oil pan off. If your engine has had any broken guides I garuntee that your pick up has a good load of desbri in it and if your changing the pump at this point in the life of an older vehicle it's just a good idea and not a lot more work
Used a 14" zip tie around the bolt to get it off and back on. You can use the tag end of the tie to firmly hold, position and align the bolts as well as put a small side load on them to ratchet them off and back on with the swivel head. Once you've ratcheted the bolts on far enough, you simply cut off the zip tie. There's no way to lose them in the oil pan either.
@@FordTechMakuloco Glad you agree. I asked this very question, so disregard it :) Part number is BT402 and BT403 Especially nice is they're ratching, so the chains never slack overnight and make noise on startup, even after many, many miles.
Melling is now offering two versions of the high volume pump; standard pressure and 20psi over standard. If one of the problems with these 3 valve engines is the chain tensioner to block seals are failing, would using the 20 over psi spring concern you that premature failure could happen under this higher pressure (or worse right blowout). This is a big job. I’d really like to only ever do it once. Thanks in Advance.
Very nice work. Excellent tips - thinking of buying an 07/08 - F150. Reading up on all the Good & Bad. Sounds like regular maintenance is the key along with Synthetic oil.
Did this without the flex neck, because after 1100 of new ford parts i was too cheap and stubborn to buy another 20.00 wrench, lol. Even torqued it. Easiest way I found for myself was from underneath on my back looking up. With my left hand i held the bolt between my two fingers and put it in by feel. Kind of a bitch but still better then the repair bill. I needed cams too. If you do too your in luck they only 108.00 ea from a online ford dealer. My local dealer is a rappest. Good luck all Thanks for your video's
Good series. I never intend to do a chain set etc on 1 of these, but was curious how. Great tip for the oil pump at this time. I know guys that race modular Ford mills that swear by these Melling pumps. Just don't drop the pick up tube bolts!
Hope you have an external oil pressure gauge. If your truck is like my 08, oil pressure always sits just above middle, no variation during driving or idling.
Hey I got a question I watch one of your old videos that you said you recommend using 5-30 oil over 5-20 oil I have a 02 Ford Explorer with the 4.6 v8 it saids 5-20 oil recommends but you think 5-30 better to use then 5-20
Thanks for the great video. If I was to switch to the M360 pump and 5w-30 oil and installed the ratcheting iron tensioners like the older motors had, do you think this combination would cause the tensioners to ratchet too tight?
Curious if that oil pump has a steal backing plate or a alum one??....seen some that recommend the steel one because the alum one will flex and leak after fully up to operating on higher RPMs. so I was also wonder if your recommend the steel backing plate one too?
Just had an ATK REMAN die on me 1 month before the 3 year warranty expired. Lost oil pressure. they sent the replacement so i opened it up and replaced the oil pump with the melling and found dorman cam phasers which i replaced with the linked ford oem units, (cost me over $400). but now this engine runs with 60 psi idle and higher under throttle. seems to run better than the first reman i had installed. Just beware of reman 5.4 3valves, they seem to use Dorman cam phasers and maybe used oil pumps.
I used an extendo (that's some go go gadget terminology) magnet and placed it directly underneath the bolts...or u can use a wide magnet and place on the outside of the pan again directly under the bolts as well...if all else fails find a mechanic with BK hands (tiny fingers)
If you drop a bolt in the oil pan it might need to come off anyways. Happened to me, glad it did tho because the pickup tube was full of plastic from the timing chain guides.
After a month I got everything back together , followed the video, long story short I have tried priming the engine maybe a total of a min ( in 10-15 seconds intrivals waiting a min in between) and I get no oil pressure on the dash. I hooked up the crank sensor and it fired right up didn’t sound bad at all but still no oil pressure so I shut it off after about 10 seconds of being on. What should I do? I hope it’s the oil pressure sensor as the oil pump is brand new but previously before doing everything it did show oil pressure
@@RustyTaylor-q1b yeah bro, turns out it did have oil pressure. Somehow the oil pressure sensor stopped working since the last time I had it running 😂 idk how that’s possible since I did not touch it but basically I bought a new oil pressure sensor at oreillys for like $50 and put it on and boom it showed oil pressure 😂
@@RustyTaylor-q1b damn bro, did you have a broken timing chain or guide or tensioners? I have read that if your engine was bad enough and broke any of the things I’ve mentioned they can get stuck in the oil pan and clog the oil pick up tube. If you did have broken pieces I would drop the oil pan and make sure it’s not clogged or anything like that
Any help appreciated...i did a timing job and new oil pump. Cleaned pan and pickup tube. Reassembled, went to priming procedure, and i have zero oil pressure. Verified the gauge and sensor. Both are good. Verified with a mechanical gauge and zero oil pressure. Put a scope in the pass side VC and no oil coming to the top of the motor. Thoughts????
Great videos I have question I change oil pump 340HV 2009 Ford F150 and when I crank it it is not building oil pressure. I tried with oil sending unit then changed it out to an oil gauge. Still no pressure. not sure if I am not cranking long enough or do think it could be something else?
Just put in my m360hv, can't wait to see how this thing runs, those pickup bolts are a pain but I just used a normal 8mm closed end wrench worked just fine though takes awhile
Does the oil pump manufacturer recomend the back plate removal for priming the pump? Couldn't that be accomplished by pouring oil into the pickup tube inlet rotating the gears by hand to lubricate them? Excellent video nonetheless. I will be working on my 2004 soon.
I just had the motor go out on my 2007 f150 at only 102,000 miles. I'm wondering if it was a faulty oil pump that caused it. I bought a used 5.4 from a 2008 and just learned that it has updated and improved heads with different spark plugs. Did Ford fix the oil pump too or should I replace it with the M360 before I put the motor in? Are there other things you would change before installing a used 5.4 3v to avoid problems later?
to save a few bucks i didnt do the oil pump replacement when i did the tensioners and chains and the engine seized after some sturdy hill climbs...I kicked myself in the ass for that...... but now i have a Chevy 5.3 with a garrett turboand 4L80e trans in my 04 navigator.....its like night and day.....dyno'd at the wheels at 654 horsepower with 618 ft lbs of torque @ 3200rpm....dont get me wrong i love ford engines but sometimes you have to weigh whats cheaper when your on a budget...$6200 for a rebuilt 5.4L or grab a low mile 5.3 and trans with ecu cpu harness on offerup for $2200 and dyno kit $1400 and 3 weeks with your buds wrenching and drinking beers.......
hello, I just finished up the oil pump upgrade on my 06 expedition with 5.4l. I put the melling m360 in. my issue is that once it's all back together I have no oil pressure on the mechanical gage that's hooked up to the oil sensor port. I left the crank sensor disconnected and cranked it about 3 different times for a few seconds, thinking it might just be priming. No luck. I even took the back plate off the new pump to put some oil in there like you said. now I'm second guessing as to whether I even put the new o ring on the pickup. Can't find it anywhere but you know. kinda freaking out here. is it possible that I just need to start it? don't want to cause damage is all.
+stevensmellie yes at times you will need to start it just keep an eye on the mechanical gauge you will find oil pressures comes up in about 1 second after startup if so you are good to go!
@@ericaberta9864 oh, you got to love those gear rotor oil pumps! Yes, starting the truck did work when I was doing that expedition. It took a few seconds but it did come up. I just actually completed a full rebuild on a 4.6 Mustang engine and had the same issue 2 weeks ago! Again, it's the same style oil pump. I had done the same thing by removing the back plate and filling it with oil as much as I could. I had never run the engine, though, since it was a full rebuild so I was more nervous than when I did the expedition, which had oil throughout the engine from prior runtime. I took faith in the assembly lube and the priming procedure that I had used for the 4.6 L. During which I was able to see oil coming all the way to the roller followers. It was still the cause of great anxiety, however, when I turned the key and got no reading on the gauge! I tried three times cranking it without the sensor connected. no pressure. I resorted once again to starting the engine for a couple seconds and still did not have pressure. That got me second-guessing my pressure gauge. I tested the gauge on an external tank that I had used to pressure-prime the engine . The gauge worked. So, I decided to try cranking it one last time... Finally the gauge started to build pressure! Hallelujah! 85psi! I wish you luck!
Stevensmellie... Thanks for responding. Talk about a learning experience. We ended up calling tech support at Melling. We used a suction gun to inject oil into the oil pump where you attach the filter. Did it once, waited a few minutes and injected more. Put the oil filter back on and tried cranking. Hallelujah!! Oil pressure went up. Connected the crank sensor and it started right up. Can't believe you went through it twice.
@@ericaberta9864 Excellent news! I'm so glad you got it working. Prior to cranking the engine in the Mustang, I had pumped 10 quarts through the whole engine at 50psi thinking, "that's gotta be enough to get it going." My pressure tank was connected to the same port the pressure sensor attaches to. That darn pump still didn't prime lol. We eventually got it, though. I hope you're works for you for a long time to come. If you still run into idling issues, don't forget to reset the KAM (keep alive memory.) Your vehicle has spent awhile trying to compensate for bad parts. Resetting the memory will allow the vehicle to relearn the idle trims. I believe fordtechmakuloco has a great little video on how to do that. Works like a charm! Nothing more discouraging than doing a long involved procedure like the timing set only to have it idle like garbage still. I had that once; reset the KAM and life was good 😎.
What causes the mech oil psi gauge to flutter like that? My 4.6 does it (Aftermarket autometer gauge) . I've been told everything from a bearing about to spin to normal
So the M360 is perfect for my 04’ 5.4 Lariat correct??? Also, do you recommend using Lucas full synthetic blend stabilizer on my 5.4 with 5-30 synthetic oil with 143,000 miles on the clock?? Yes it does have the load ticking noise. Gonna need a new timing chain set real soon. Thank you in advance👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
This is the LATEST pump I recommend for this engine (fits all 3v engines 2004-2014)-
amzn.to/2IBcqKG
This flex head is an absolute must-
amzn.to/28Sl1s3
Once installed switching to 5w-30 oil is recommended-
amzn.to/3iqB3wT
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
amzn.to/2GC6dBj
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
FordTechMakuloco can not get m360 to prime up any suggestions
Brian, what is the difference between the Melling 360 and the 10340? Amazon only had the 10340 available to get in time for this long weekend.
Make sure the pickup tube isn't aspirating any air.
I went to the Amazon link for the m360 and it says this item does not fit your vehicle and says the m10340 does. I've got an 08 f150 fx4 with 5.4L 3v v8, what's the difference? which s should I get?
FordTechMakuloco will that make the truck not start
Just an additional little tip I have found when changing a GM oil pump and it would apply to the Ford as well. Loosen the oil pick up tube bolts to where about 5 threads are showing. Loop and twist a piece of safety wire around the bolts and twist until semi tight. This will reduce the likelihood of the bolts falling down into the oil pan, or if they do, you can pull them right out and not have to drop the oil pan.
Brilliant idea! I just pulled the old pump out and nearly dropped a bolt. I'm taking this suggestion on the install of the new one.
Great tip
great idea. I was thinking "wow this job would be so easy if I didn't drop the bolts into the pan", which I would
a fishing trip with a extended magnetic pick up might save the day
Great tip! Also not a bad idea to place some sort of rag or small towel in the pan to prevent a falling screw from disappearing into the pan. If one does, just have a telescoping magnet retriever and no problem getting it.
This series on changing the timing/oil pump has helped me out tremendously!! I'm gradually getting everything that I need and plan to do the repair myself. I'm not new to changing parts on my truck but this one will be the most in depth repair I will have completed! I feel very confident with having watched your video Brian. Thanks SO much!!
Working on mine as we speak, been a SLOW process with how little free time I have, but it is slowly being done right at least. Definitely thanks to this video series.
how did that go?? I know it's 6 years past
I must say I have watched your videos over and over as I do my 2003 F150 5.4l and this step was by far the most difficult at getting that little bolt in!! LOL You make everything look so easy, I had a blown cylinder head and your 4 part engine timing chain replacement has helped me so much. the only difference is I took it one set farther and removed the cylinder heads. I thought well is was at it i may as well change the oil pump and water pump, I am glad I did but....dam that bolt!! Thank you for posting these wonderful videos to help us DIY people!!! I will mention I am a 53 yr old women and getting the job done thanks to your videos!!
Homesteading 101 2003 is a 2v 5.4L as far as i know- i have a 2002 5.4L 2v - which oil pump did you use? I cant seem to find a definitive answer from anywhere on whether or not i can use this melling upgraded hi flow one.
I own a 2003 and also wondering if I can use this upgrade pump before I start with the roller follower replacement.
After fighting with that inside bolt for about a couple hours I called the wife thinking with her having smaller fingers she'd be able to get the bolt started. But like me, she was having difficulty getting it to catch on the 1st couple of threads. So being the out of box thinker that she is, she went to my son's room and got his 3" squishy ball and inserted that under the bolt hole, got the bolt in, and then I was able to rotate and get the bolt started. After that, I kept the ball in place while tightening it down with the 8mm flex head.
As for set up, we stuff a bath or kitchen hand towel down into the front of the oil pan, up against some other internal pan structure. We let some of the towel hang out on the right hand side so it could be pulled out later. The purpose for the towel was to give the ball something to butt up against and so it would stay in place and of course, not allow it to fall or get stuck in the pan. After all said down, I pulled out the ball, the towel, and then double checked and cleared out any remaining debris with said towel.
Worked like a charm!
If there was a way, I'd upload a pic of the setup.
Hopefully this will help out the next person.
You are quickly becoming my go to 5.4L ford guy! Thanks for the great info. I thought I had the 3 valve engine, but learned after your timing chain video that my 04 F250 is two valve. Thanks again.
thanks for this video...one thing I did to get that lower pickup tube bolt in was to wrap it a few times with string...set it in the ratchet box end, poke it into the hole and pull the string like staring a lawn mower. Thing went right in there!
Bloody genius 👍
I had to give up for the night but I'm gonna try this in the morning. Thanks for the idea!
Thanks to this guy I’m doing the repairs on my 3v. Just threw a timing chain and now I’m stuck doing it myself ( I don’t trust mechanics around my area ) but hardest part is remembering all the connectors of wiring😂
I just used my ratcheting 8mm wrench to fish the lower pickup tube bolt into the hole. Had to fiddle and make several attempts but eventually I got it to stay in the hole and was able to start threading it with my fingers, then the wrench. No special tricks to it, took about 15 minutes; patients is key.
Also if anyone is just replacing the oil pump gears like me, I had some trouble getting the gear in the pump to line up with the crankshaft notches. So I took my old gear, put it over the crankshaft and marked it at the 12'oclock, then took it off and used to it align the gear in the pump. A little bit of wiggle and it slid right on.
Thank you! Just saved me an hour of frustration.
I had trouble aligning the flats on the crankshaft with the new pump as well. I used a different approach that worked for me. I put the new pump on the crank and then used a socket and ratchet to rotate the crank until the new pump slid into place.
I know that there are a ton of helpful comments here but I thought I would add to this awesome volume of helpful info.
1st, yes those two bolts for the pickup tube will be a pain in the butt, just face the reality now and continue on. Make sure you have a flippy/swivel open ended wrench and you should be ok. I found that the lower harder to get at one almost wanted to cross thread on me so I had to make sure the other bolt was loose enough to allow movement of the pick up tube.
2nd, Priming the pump. This is where I struggled. I left the crank sensor unplugged and did the running with the starter only thing and never got any oil pressure. I even removed the oil filter to see if any oil had made to that and it did not.
I found a very short video that was put out by Melling on just this problem. They advised to prefill the oil filter and also to use what ever means to push oil into the lower squarish hole where the oil filter mounts to. You pump, squeeze, shove whatever you can do to force oil back into this opening. what you are doing is pushing oil back into the oil pump. Once I did this it only took another 5-10 seconds of turning the engine with the starter to get oil pressure.
I was questioning everything that I did when I was not getting oil pressure. I was fearing that I was going to have to tear back into the engine again. Verify each step while doing the job and trust the method of priming. You will be fine.
Just finished installing the new M360HV. Yes, it was a beast of a job. As shown in the video the 8mm flex is a must and with the assistance of a topside creeper made it more manageable. I did have one secret weapon. I sub-contracted the hard to reach pickup tube bolt to my 11 yr. old daughter. Together we got it done! I've seen a lot of back and forth between the M360HV and M340HV. At the time (July/Aug) I was gathering all the tools and parts needed for the job, it seemed like the M360HV was advertised pretty heavily. With that, I'm not going back in and swapping out the 360 with the 340. At this point, it is what it is.
Did the job really only take 10-15 minutes as he states in the video?
@@A.C.71 The oil pump, power steering and the oil pressure sending unit were hard. I have a 4x4 so the clearances we're tight.
Getting the pump off was easy. Putting it on was challenging but the bolts on the pickup tube are hard. Took me awhile, but I'm a novice.
@@EVRY1STFU I'm thinking he meant 15 minutes once the from cover was off. I'm curious how much time the entire job from start to finish takes the average guy. About how long did it take?
@@A.C.71 I'm below average. Meaning that was the most I worked on a vehicle in terms of technicality. It took me longer than most. I work a full-time plus type job and I had to contend with 3 family emergencies. I also dealt with a counterfeit tool from Amazon....so that slowed me down significantly. I also inspected all parts and tools 20 times over. I called several Ford dealerships to compare part numbers etc & dealt with Amazon fraud department. I could probably do the job in 3-4 days comfortably now that I have a little experience. Some guys on his videos get it done over the weekend. Brian quoted me 1.5 days, but he's a master mechanic with a nice garage setup. Overall, it's a good bit of work.
@@EVRY1STFU oh ok so it's a massive job. In the video he kinda makes it sound like once the cover is off it takes just 10-15 minutes. It doesn't look like he dropping the oil pan either. So that gave me the impression once the cover is off which isn't very hard it just takes 15 minutes to change the oil pump out.
I’m a ford guy but some stuff they do drives me nuts. The 3 valve had great potential but they knocked it back with something as simple as a weak oil pump and timing chain tensioners.
Don't forget phasers
@@chrishernandez2490 yeah that too, the tensioners blow out and starve the phasers of oil, nothing but a domino effect with this engine.
Does the 5.4 Factory Ford Oil pump have a Plastic Gear ???
@@bradlyhunt7240 I was thinking that like good motor but parts fail easily and cascade
@@bradlyhunt7240 have the plastic tensioners on 2 valve Triton engines replaced with the earlier metal ones.
Just wanted to say thanks for the great tutorial. One tip I have for others having a hard time with the rear bolt is to take two minutes to make a wrench out of a thin piece of sheet metal. Use tin snips to cut a metal strip 3/4" wide by 6" long then lay the open end of an 8mm wrench at the top 3/4" side to trace and cut the 8mm opening. Now you have a very thin flexible wrench that you can use to overcome the steep angle of the rear bolt during its initial installation. As you insert this flexible wrench you can use the same finger you are using to hold the rear bolt in place to guide it. I fought with this rear bolt for over 2 hours before trying the above and then was able to install the rear bolt in literally minutes.
A year later and this gem of advice saved me likely hours of frustration. I made the wrench like you said but I also made a “wing nut” to slide onto the screw head to help with getting it started. I cut a very thin strip (barely wider than the screw head itself is tall) by maybe an inch and a half long. Folded it tight into thirds, think like a paper clip not a Z. Then jammed a screwdriver in the middle and twisted until it opened up enough to fit tightly over the screw head. Kinda looked like this when it was done . Made it easier to start the threads and turn the screw with one finger. Pulled right off then the flexible wrench did the rest.
A heartfelt thank you 🍺
FordTechMakuloco, I'm finally changing out all of the timing components at 366K miles. Had slap at startup and some light ticking noises. Found broken guide on left side and one bad lash adjuster and two rough followers. Engine never had a wrench on it except for mine. Did change plugs twice myself with no problems. And regular oil changes every 5K miles with non-synthetic 5-30W since 10K, might be why it has lasted. Tip for installing the Melling 360 that I can offer...put a rag under the front to catch the bolt when it gets dropped around 10 times trying to put the back one in! What worked for me was using a long tie wrap around the bolt while starting the threads, it offers some resistance while threading it with the flex head gear wrench. Great videos by the way. BTW, I must have lucked out because I'm not really having most of the problems with the 3V that others experience.
Thanks so much for the video. It's a shame that taking the time to do things with pride is the exception. Your video's are priceless to people who have dealt with dealerships who put profits before pride.I'm a fan, keep the videos coming.
One quick tip for those who have big paws like me. I was fighting this all day until I decided to use a hemostat to hold the inboard pickup bolt and thread it into the hole. Don't clamp the bolt until the hemostat locks, just gently hold it just below the head of the bolt and then snake the bolt in the hole. Once in the hole, just use one finger to push on the head of the bolt to get it to start meshing into the threads, and with continuous pressure from ones finger on the head of the bolt, gently release the bolt with the hemostat and reposition it after each counterclockwise turn (as viewed from above, since the bolt is inverted). This will tighten the bolt until one gets to the last few turns. By this time the gentle grip by the hemostat starts to slip, which means a swivel ratchet as suggested in this video will now have enough resistance to start clicking and finish the job. Hope this helps someone.
Hi Bran, great videos. I have a 2007 f-150 5.4l 3v. It has just happened under 140,000 miles. Will be replacing timing/oil pump (Melling M360VH), and rockers. All OEM except pump. I am acquiring the tools and parts you recommend little by little. Probably will have everything by the end of March. I am not a machanic but have sent you videos and feel confident. I just finished changing the plugs and and coils (Motorcraft). I was lucky and none broke. Thank you so much for your indepth vedios...they're great.
Where was this video 6 months ago! I lost the passenger side cam and last lifter. 1 month later I found out the guides were bad and replaced the chains/guides/tensioners. Everyone said the cross member and pan had to come off, so I did not do it! The chains were not bad it was mainly due to the guide failing. Mine is 2 wheel drive.
Thanks for the video.
Brian...........I am a Godly man but I made up new curse words on those pick-up tube bolts.lol..... I'm going back together now so ill let you know how everything goes when im done. Thanks sincerely for all the great advise and vids! You are a blessing to so many people. I pray that a lot of people donate or order shirts etc.....
Local Ford dealership says the whole engine needs to come out to replace the oil pump, mentioned how you did it in this video and they still tried to argue with me and say the engine needs pulled lol.
+atvrider391 Wow! Ford only call for the pan to be dropped.
Ford wants some extra coin!
you sure about that 5 30 / oil ? book says 5 / 20
When you get higher miles tolerances open up. 5-30 is beneficial on a higher mileage engine
stealerships
I once put a high pressure oil pump on my Camaro. I should have read the instructions. It was for race cars that run thin oil. It blew gaskets\seals out all over the place. As it reached 90 PSI... When it was designed for 45 PSI...
I haven't tried this yet... But I think the GEARWRENCH 85608 Locking Flex Head 8mm combo wrench would work better for this job. Because then you can use it to push the screw up into the hole without it flexing to the point of loosing the screw. Then you wont need to use the cats claw to put pressure on the end.
You can also invert the pump and pour oil down the inlet and turn the rotor until it comes out the outlet w/o removing the cover. Great time saving video Brian!
+Hayward's Automotive True but I like to give a visual to make sure it's machined right and no problems before putting it on plus I squirt a little in the regulator ports.
@@FordTechMakuloco Brian, after priming, what's the torque for the oil pump cover?
@@jamesplotkin4674 89 “ lbs torque
I'm doing the valve timing set now and replacing the oil pump and water pump as well. I would never attempted this without your help. Thank you!
555k subscribers for quality installation and info that not one local mechanic wants you to hear because he wants to charge you double the price and use parts from the junk yard. Makuloco deserves better
First timing job took me like 45 minutes to get that right oil pickup screw in. One of the hardest bolts ever. Second timing job on another 5.4 only took 10 minutes. One difference was the flex head wrench I used the first time was too loose. This time I use a wrench with a stiffer hinge. Was able to hold the bold in place netter. And of course the cat claw is necessary too. After I got it started, I moved the catcall to the other side of the wrench and finished it off.
Just want to say thanks for all the videos. They've been very helpful in fixing my truck. Couldn't have done it without you. Thanks and keep em coming....
Mine was done after 220,000 and phasers, chains, guides, etc.....my mechanic switched me to 10w40. Plus every other oil change a quart of Lucas stabilizer.......truck runs good and engine tight!!!
Thank you Brian for awesome videos! Also, my new Melling pump did not prime by cranking from just the starter, I had to actually start the engine, and the oil came up on the gauge very quickly, within a couple of seconds.
Have learned from many of your videos that Amazon is the best place to get good prices on auto parts. Never would have thought to look there. Thanks, parts are expensive enough even at the best price available.
Agreed pump can be removed without oil pan removal, but every one I have had to do the chain guides are sitting in the oil pan, tough to fish them pieces from the front cover.
Great videos, it does amaze me how you have time to produce quality videos and pull wrenches at the same time. Dedication!
Since you have to reoil might as well drop the pan and clean it out
I really wish I would have known this back in 2014. I did phasers, chains, tensioners, VCT solenoids on my dad's F-250. Didn't put an oil pump on it. 1300 miles later, it spun a rod bearing. Would have been cheap insurance, but instead I still have to put a motor in it.
Did this over the weekend, and it turned into a 3 hours job. I thought we had rags in the pan and we didn't. So when I dropped one of the bolts, it went down into the pan and under the baffle, so we had to drop the pan.
Just grab an "extra" bolt and go ahead and throw a couple 1/4" 10mm sockets in there, too. Won't get sucked in the screen anyways!
I just changed oil pump. Worked well upgraded melling
It took me 20 times and an hour to line this thing up. I almost gave up
Thanks!
Makaluco......literally the best mechanic you tube ever.
🎯🎯🎯
Man you are helping me tremendously I am doing timing job, got a melling 10430 hp pump the wrench worked great!
If any chain guides have broken. You want to remove the pan for sure even if you could remove any debris most all of it will be stuck into the pickup screen. If your doing the job as preventive maintenance then ya you can just swap out the pump. Pans are easy to remove even for the 4wd models.
?? 4x4. IF you call removing a crossmember, the starbilizer bar and dropping an axle "easy".
@@richardwilson117 it's not that hard. Maby if you live in the rust belt it might be but you still got to do it or you won't have enough oil pressure to run the phasers and if your oil filter gets plugged and goes into bypass mode then those pieces can plug the passage in the head that provides the oil. Do it right or buy a engine.
I wish you would have started from the beginning showing how you removed the front cover and most importantly how you removed the timing chain and tensioner that was in front covering over the oil pump itself. I have a 2005 Ford F150 XLT 4X4 5.4 3 V Triton engine with 55, 000 miles on it and I am thinking about just replacing the oil pump itself, not all of the other components, because of the low mileage. BTW IMHO you are the best that is out there, love your detailed explanations.
Thank you for helping all us DIY'ers out!🦾
Wow thanks a lot!!
@@FordTechMakulocoGlad to do it bud! Popped a question in just before this post regarding your recommendation on a 340HV or 360HV for my application. What are your thoughts?
@@FordTechMakuloco
It's worth it.....
not only are you saving people money.....
As well as educating everyone ....
But quite simply , these vids are great value .
lol i like how you didnt show that last bolt going in the pick up tube. i ended up dropping the oil pan an inch or so and i could fit my fingers in there a lot easyer.
Things that make you say “hmmm”
Were you able to access the oil pick up tube to remove any debris that may be lodged in there during any point of this?
I have to do a timing service on my brothers f250 I inherited after he passed. Your videos have been super helpful especially this one and the 4 part video. Thanks
2 Things I would like to point out is: 1 An it never hurts to put an anaerobic sealer on the oil passage mating surface. And 2, If the guides have come apart, more often then not, pieces end up in the bottom of the oil pan and can get sucked up into the pickup. That being said, I get the commission benefits of not taking off the oil pan, however comebacks are a killer.
+lveroflife if a guide came apart in junks then yes absolutely pull the pan
I think he did recommend that you scope the pan to make sure it didn't have debris inside.
@@FordTechMakuloco Do you have a video for pulling pan? Is it necessary to raise motor on 04 5.4?
Is liquid Molly engine flush you recommend? I have a 07 f150 5.4 triton
Hot tip for the right/aft pickup tube bolt, after struggling for an hour: his method worked the best but first get the bolt as far into the hole as possible by supporting with the gear wrench in your right hand, and holding the threads nearest the head with some pliers to prevent dropping while you work it into the hole. Then switch out the pliers for the cat claw for bottom support. You need to insert the bolt at a more extreme angle than you might think to avoid cross-threading. If you feel much resistance at all before the very end, STOP and start over with a steeper entry angle.
may the bread bag tie wire could serve ?
Great job on the video. Love all your stuff, honestly on this one I tried to get the bolt back into the pick up tube for an hour. then I jacked up the truck and took off the oil pan in 15 min and bolted that bastard on.
04 f150 5.4 i run 15w40 detergent. 225k mi no issues ever. E3 diamond spark plugs. Engine never been apart.
I have heard that from many others also.
Love how detailed you are! Thank you for all your in depth videos. Cause of u, I rediagnosed my previous diagnosis and found that the right bank has a spun cam cap and plugged the bearing journals causing p0012 and p0016. Oh, its an 08 f150 5.4 3v 135,000 miles. Owner drove it with very low oil level for an extended period. Again, I appreciate your in depth videos! Sincerely, jays automotive repair of edmond Oklahoma!
I just did this job in an 07 Navigator before you start cussing and throwing stuff in your garage, just take a few extra minutes to loosen the bolts on your oil pan just enough so that the pan drops about half to 1 inch. You will be able to get both bolts on the pick up tube by hand.
10 to 15 minutes LOL took me that long just to put that rear sump tube bolt back in without dropping it. Good video though
I was thinking 10-15 minute job🤣
Yeah... even for a master tech that works on bmw I was cussing that lower bolt.. took me 30 mins to just start it.
I stuffed a bunch of clean rags in the front of the pan so if the screw fell (and it did several times) it wouldn't roll into the sump.
@@pescatoralpursuit1726 that's the smart way to do it.
LoL
I have a 1998 mercury grand marquis with the 4.6 liter engine when I bought it the car had 89k and I have had it for 3 yrs and it has 278k and still going power to ford
I would like to see where how you tapped the manual oil pressure gauge
...where it normally goes
These Fords don't actually have an oil PRESSURE gauge, instead Ford came up with a wierd switch system. If the pressure reaches a point that Ford thinks is sufficient, the switch closes and the dashboard indicator moves. The sending unit (switch) is located just behind the oil filter. You can remove the sender, replace it with a "T" and put it back on the end of the "T". The side port can be used to run a line up to a real oil pressure gauge on your dashboard.
I did the full timing restoration melling 360 HV pump all the roller follower fingers and spark plugs on my moms 06 king ranch expedition using all ford gaskets and timing components. I also updated the oil to 5W30. What a difference it made not just performance but fuel economy too. Its a 2 wheel drive car and now the only problem is that the 1st gear clutch in the 4R75WE is almost gone at 140k miles. That seams odd since we dont tow anything heavy or thrash the car.
After watching your vid, I pulled the oil pump on my truck to replace it with the 360. My stock oil pump had a complete blockage in one of the oil passages. Is this something you've seen before? I change oil regularly. The truck has 150k miles on it, and was running fine, but I decided to tear into it before I began having issues. I also found the gaskets on each chain tensioner were in the process of failing. Your vids saved me an engine.
maybe thats what takes out the cam phasers and timing chain
Normal for the 5.4 3v. I love my Fords but you cannot ignore the fact that the 5.4 3v has some serious design flaws. One is the head design,it accumulates sludge and eventually circulates it. One reason why I tell people do not run engine cleaner through that engine. Youll circulate the sludge even more. You have to physically remove the valve covers and do it by hand.
The 5.4 does have its problems but I’ll tell you what it’s got no where near the issues that the 4.7 Chrysler motor does lol. How about the fact that rain water collects under the intake manifold in the valley rots the dipstick tube and then fills the oil full of water. That’s a pretty neat trick. People these days don’t take care of their stuff they don’t do regular maintenance I only know that cause I just finished pulling one out of a Durango that had the main bearings spun cause there was more water then oil it proceeded to take out all the lifters and the rod bearings just an absolute joy
I would recommend pulling the oil pan off. If your engine has had any broken guides I garuntee that your pick up has a good load of desbri in it and if your changing the pump at this point in the life of an older vehicle it's just a good idea and not a lot more work
Used a 14" zip tie around the bolt to get it off and back on. You can use the tag end of the tie to firmly hold, position and align the bolts as well as put a small side load on them to ratchet them off and back on with the swivel head. Once you've ratcheted the bolts on far enough, you simply cut off the zip tie. There's no way to lose them in the oil pan either.
That is smart. Good thinking
Rewatching these series as I wait for my 05 King Ranch parts to arrive. Great job man! Thanks.
Thank you for your clear, concise information. You have helped me with many of my Ford induced traumatic occurrences. Thank You!
I actually used the rag to bold the bolt in position while I turned it. Worked amazing if you don’t have a flex head.
Melling also offers cast iron timing chain tensioners now as well. Have you had the opportunity to try those or get your hands on a set of those yet?
I have used them in two vehicles so far no problems yet and the machining and finish on the seal side was spot on.
@@FordTechMakuloco Glad you agree. I asked this very question, so disregard it :) Part number is BT402 and BT403 Especially nice is they're ratching, so the chains never slack overnight and make noise on startup, even after many, many miles.
Melling is now offering two versions of the high volume pump; standard pressure and 20psi over standard. If one of the problems with these 3 valve engines is the chain tensioner to block seals are failing, would using the 20 over psi spring concern you that premature failure could happen under this higher pressure (or worse right blowout). This is a big job. I’d really like to only ever do it once. Thanks in Advance.
I just bought the M340HV for that very same thought, I'll be installing it in a few weeks.
been a year now using the HV/HP pump and 10k miles - no problems other than that annoying cold idle valve train tick - still there . . .
Very nice work.
Excellent tips - thinking of buying an 07/08 - F150.
Reading up on all the Good & Bad.
Sounds like regular maintenance is the key along with Synthetic oil.
did u do it? if so how is it going?
Did this without the flex neck, because after 1100 of new ford parts i was too cheap and stubborn to buy another 20.00 wrench, lol. Even torqued it. Easiest way I found for myself was from underneath on my back looking up. With my left hand i held the bolt between my two fingers and put it in by feel. Kind of a bitch but still better then the repair bill. I needed cams too. If you do too your in luck they only 108.00 ea from a online ford dealer. My local dealer is a rappest. Good luck all
Thanks for your video's
Outstanding video. Learned even more in the comments section.
ONLY USE FORD PRARTS! except for the oil pump.
Hope you had a good vacay
big difference with the new pump. why did the instrument cluster still say Low Oil Pressure after the replacement ?
because he had a external oil pressure gauge hooked up where the oil pressure switch would be
Makes sense to me, disconnected sensor while testing. 10-4 good buddy
+Ozzstar you must be a super trucker LOL
what part of he hooked up an external (more accurate) oil pressure gauge didn't you understand?
Ozzstar in my say low oil in the engine is off
Good series. I never intend to do a chain set etc on 1 of these, but was curious how. Great tip for the oil pump at this time. I know guys that race modular Ford mills that swear by these Melling pumps. Just don't drop the pick up tube bolts!
Which pump would you recommend for a 4.6L 2v?
Melling High volume oil pump
The melling M360 works if your
Are planning on making some HP or the M340 would work fine for your daily driver
Will this work for a 2007 Lincoln Mark LT 5.4
@@peteacevedo3822 yes
I just ordered one of these pumps for a 5.4. So excited to see the extra oil pressure at hot idle!
Hope you have an external oil pressure gauge. If your truck is like my 08, oil pressure always sits just above middle, no variation during driving or idling.
Hey I got a question I watch one of your old videos that you said you recommend using 5-30 oil over 5-20 oil I have a 02 Ford Explorer with the 4.6 v8 it saids 5-20 oil recommends but you think 5-30 better to use then 5-20
I was able to do this on the 2V 5.4L without the flex head. Just a regular open end 8mm wrench. Not saying I didnt wish I had one though.
Thanks for the great video. If I was to switch to the M360 pump and 5w-30 oil and installed the ratcheting iron tensioners like the older motors had, do you think this combination would cause the tensioners to ratchet too tight?
They cannot get too tight. The chain controls how much slack is there.
The easy'st engine to time made 5.4 3 valve.
can i use this procedure to the first start of my 2005 mustang rebuilt motor?
i know this is a older post but most needed clip if your installing this new pump.... just torque to 8 to 9in ft pounds
Curious if that oil pump has a steal backing plate or a alum one??....seen some that recommend the steel one because the alum one will flex and leak after fully up to operating on higher RPMs. so I was also wonder if your recommend the steel backing plate one too?
+imenriched yes it has the upgraded cast iron backing plate
Just had an ATK REMAN die on me 1 month before the 3 year warranty expired. Lost oil pressure. they sent the replacement so i opened it up and replaced the oil pump with the melling and found dorman cam phasers which i replaced with the linked ford oem units, (cost me over $400). but now this engine runs with 60 psi idle and higher under throttle. seems to run better than the first reman i had installed. Just beware of reman 5.4 3valves, they seem to use Dorman cam phasers and maybe used oil pumps.
Bravo Brian, great tutorial how to video... Informative as always. Thank you sir
I used an extendo (that's some go go gadget terminology) magnet and placed it directly underneath the bolts...or u can use a wide magnet and place on the outside of the pan again directly under the bolts as well...if all else fails find a mechanic with BK hands (tiny fingers)
Great Video! How come you don't recommend the Ford Racing (M-6600-F46) High Volume Oil Pump? Are the Melling Oil pumps just really better?
and its only 70$ willit work exactly the same ?and what volume of flow is it ?
If you drop a bolt in the oil pan it might need to come off anyways. Happened to me, glad it did tho because the pickup tube was full of plastic from the timing chain guides.
This is exactly my issue. Was the pickup tube hard to replace?
After a month I got everything back together , followed the video, long story short I have tried priming the engine maybe a total of a min ( in 10-15 seconds intrivals waiting a min in between) and I get no oil pressure on the dash. I hooked up the crank sensor and it fired right up didn’t sound bad at all but still no oil pressure so I shut it off after about 10 seconds of being on. What should I do? I hope it’s the oil pressure sensor as the oil pump is brand new but previously before doing everything it did show oil pressure
I'm having the same problem. Reassembled and no oil pressure. Did you figure yours out? Thanks
@@RustyTaylor-q1b yeah bro, turns out it did have oil pressure. Somehow the oil pressure sensor stopped working since the last time I had it running 😂 idk how that’s possible since I did not touch it but basically I bought a new oil pressure sensor at oreillys for like $50 and put it on and boom it showed oil pressure 😂
@gamespost1226 I'm not getting that lucky. I have zero oil pressure verified with mechanical gauge. I'm lost. Anyway to contact this guy?
@@RustyTaylor-q1b damn bro, did you have a broken timing chain or guide or tensioners? I have read that if your engine was bad enough and broke any of the things I’ve mentioned they can get stuck in the oil pan and clog the oil pick up tube. If you did have broken pieces I would drop the oil pan and make sure it’s not clogged or anything like that
@@RustyTaylor-q1b u figure it out bro?
Something else to do to my F150, thanks for the video!
thanks for the homework, lol
Any help appreciated...i did a timing job and new oil pump. Cleaned pan and pickup tube. Reassembled, went to priming procedure, and i have zero oil pressure. Verified the gauge and sensor. Both are good. Verified with a mechanical gauge and zero oil pressure. Put a scope in the pass side VC and no oil coming to the top of the motor. Thoughts????
Can you link to the adapter used to installed the hose in place of the oil pressure switch
My question is do I drop the oil pan to reach the oil pump? I’m a noob to performing this particular service. 2005 Ford Expedition Eddie Baur
You can. It's even easier that way
@@joeysanchez5926 just to clarify, a new oil pump can be installed via oil pan removal? 09 King Ranch, thank you
you do excellent videos you sure missed a good opportunity to back flush the oil screen
Great videos I have question I change oil pump 340HV 2009 Ford F150 and when I crank it it is not building oil pressure. I tried with oil sending unit then changed it out to an oil gauge. Still no pressure. not sure if I am not cranking long enough or do think it could be something else?
You videos are very well do. thank you for taking the time to put together such a great product.
Just put in my m360hv, can't wait to see how this thing runs, those pickup bolts are a pain but I just used a normal 8mm closed end wrench worked just fine though takes awhile
How'd you get the back one started?
hey brian, was there a bolt missing from the oil pump right lower about 3 clock position? or is there a pass thru the front cover?
+NCPDFSB yes the bolt for lower guide goes there when you build the timing components up
Does the oil pump manufacturer recomend the back plate removal for priming the pump?
Couldn't that be accomplished by pouring oil into the pickup tube inlet rotating the gears by hand to lubricate them? Excellent video nonetheless. I will be working on my 2004 soon.
Do I really have to change the timing chain when it's tapping or can I just put new tensioners
Chains normally last forever.
I just had the motor go out on my 2007 f150 at only 102,000 miles. I'm wondering if it was a faulty oil pump that caused it. I bought a used 5.4 from a 2008 and just learned that it has updated and improved heads with different spark plugs. Did Ford fix the oil pump too or should I replace it with the M360 before I put the motor in? Are there other things you would change before installing a used 5.4 3v to avoid problems later?
Wish i would have seen this vid when i did my timing chain
Should be a breeze to get back in there. Do it while the job is still fresh in your head.
to save a few bucks i didnt do the oil pump replacement when i did the tensioners and chains and the engine seized after some sturdy hill climbs...I kicked myself in the ass for that...... but now i have a Chevy 5.3 with a garrett turboand 4L80e trans in my 04 navigator.....its like night and day.....dyno'd at the wheels at 654 horsepower with 618 ft lbs of torque @ 3200rpm....dont get me wrong i love ford engines but sometimes you have to weigh whats cheaper when your on a budget...$6200 for a rebuilt 5.4L or grab a low mile 5.3 and trans with ecu cpu harness on offerup for $2200 and dyno kit $1400 and 3 weeks with your buds wrenching and drinking beers.......
hello, I just finished up the oil pump upgrade on my 06 expedition with 5.4l. I put the melling m360 in. my issue is that once it's all back together I have no oil pressure on the mechanical gage that's hooked up to the oil sensor port. I left the crank sensor disconnected and cranked it about 3 different times for a few seconds, thinking it might just be priming. No luck. I even took the back plate off the new pump to put some oil in there like you said. now I'm second guessing as to whether I even put the new o ring on the pickup. Can't find it anywhere but you know. kinda freaking out here. is it possible that I just need to start it? don't want to cause damage is all.
+stevensmellie yes at times you will need to start it just keep an eye on the mechanical gauge you will find oil pressures comes up in about 1 second after startup if so you are good to go!
@Stevensmellie, did starting the truck work? We're having the same problem, no pressure with the crank sensor disconnected.
@@ericaberta9864 oh, you got to love those gear rotor oil pumps! Yes, starting the truck did work when I was doing that expedition. It took a few seconds but it did come up. I just actually completed a full rebuild on a 4.6 Mustang engine and had the same issue 2 weeks ago! Again, it's the same style oil pump. I had done the same thing by removing the back plate and filling it with oil as much as I could. I had never run the engine, though, since it was a full rebuild so I was more nervous than when I did the expedition, which had oil throughout the engine from prior runtime. I took faith in the assembly lube and the priming procedure that I had used for the 4.6 L. During which I was able to see oil coming all the way to the roller followers. It was still the cause of great anxiety, however, when I turned the key and got no reading on the gauge! I tried three times cranking it without the sensor connected. no pressure. I resorted once again to starting the engine for a couple seconds and still did not have pressure. That got me second-guessing my pressure gauge. I tested the gauge on an external tank that I had used to pressure-prime the engine . The gauge worked. So, I decided to try cranking it one last time... Finally the gauge started to build pressure! Hallelujah! 85psi! I wish you luck!
Stevensmellie... Thanks for responding. Talk about a learning experience. We ended up calling tech support at Melling. We used a suction gun to inject oil into the oil pump where you attach the filter. Did it once, waited a few minutes and injected more. Put the oil filter back on and tried cranking. Hallelujah!! Oil pressure went up. Connected the crank sensor and it started right up. Can't believe you went through it twice.
@@ericaberta9864 Excellent news! I'm so glad you got it working. Prior to cranking the engine in the Mustang, I had pumped 10 quarts through the whole engine at 50psi thinking, "that's gotta be enough to get it going." My pressure tank was connected to the same port the pressure sensor attaches to. That darn pump still didn't prime lol. We eventually got it, though. I hope you're works for you for a long time to come. If you still run into idling issues, don't forget to reset the KAM (keep alive memory.) Your vehicle has spent awhile trying to compensate for bad parts. Resetting the memory will allow the vehicle to relearn the idle trims. I believe fordtechmakuloco has a great little video on how to do that. Works like a charm! Nothing more discouraging than doing a long involved procedure like the timing set only to have it idle like garbage still. I had that once; reset the KAM and life was good 😎.
What causes the mech oil psi gauge to flutter like that? My 4.6 does it (Aftermarket autometer gauge) . I've been told everything from a bearing about to spin to normal
lots of flutter is a bad sign,could be sticking relief valve,debris,air in the system,..
I've just tried to get to those DAMN pickup tube bolts and can not get the inside bolt. F$#@$%!!!!!
Wrap some fine safety wire around the bolt under the head so it won't fall into the pan. It'll help hold it while you cuss for an hour.
So the M360 is perfect for my 04’ 5.4 Lariat correct???
Also, do you recommend using Lucas full synthetic blend stabilizer on my 5.4 with 5-30 synthetic oil with 143,000 miles on the clock?? Yes it does have the load ticking noise. Gonna need a new timing chain set real soon. Thank you in advance👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I use this oil pump in all my 5.4L 3v builds 2004-2014 model years- amzn.to/2Nim7DM
Why when I click the link Amazon says it doesn't fit my vehicle? I have 2007 5.4 f150