Ford F150 5.4 Timing Chain, Cam Phasers, Roller Followers and Oil Pump Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 4 фев 2025
- This F-150 is getting all new timing components: Chains, guides, tensioners, cam phasers along with a new oil pump and rockers/ roller followers.
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🛒PARTS LIST:
➦ Timing chain kit: amzn.to/3T5oitI
➦ Melling phasers: amzn.to/3YYyDeM
➦ Updated roller follower: amzn.to/3mm8Ufr
➦ Melling oil pump: amzn.to/3GvwJZk
➦ VCT Solenoid: amzn.to/3MSvkj8
➦ Valve cover gasket set: amzn.to/3yTSwJo
➦ Timing cover gasket set: amzn.to/3T2dwo0
➦RTV Sealant: amzn.to/3uvWj9b
🛒TOOL LIST:
➦1/2 Impact: amzn.to/4dorSXU
➦Impact socket set: amzn.to/3B4mDK7
➦Socket and wrench set: amzn.to/3mh8ymh
➦Electric ratchet: amzn.to/3kYYYFi
➦Prybar set: amzn.to/3mhFWJB
➦Breaker bar: amzn.to/2Ye79oo
➦Torque wrenches: amzn.to/3a2D0L2
amzn.to/3l14G9x
➦ Fan tool: amzn.to/3A3vrP5
➦ Power steering puller: amzn.to/3UrOY7I
➦ Crank pulley puller: amzn.to/3MvvLA3
➡️I am part of the Amazon affiliate program and get a small commission when purchases are made throughthe links provided.
DISCLAIMER
The information provided by Valley Mobile Automotive (“we,” “us” or “our”) on this video is for general informational purposes and entertainment only and does not replace professional advice.
All information is provided in good faith; however, we make no representation or warranty of any kind, express or implied, regarding the accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability or completeness of any information on the video.
By working on your own vehicle, you take responsibility for the outcome.
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I own a 2006 F150. 160,000 miles. its starting to have that ticking sound. been putting off this repair but seeing this guide gives me more confidence to do it.
@@DubStepTomatoFarmer It's a big job but I think these trucks are worth it. I have links for parts and tools in the description. If you have any questions I'll try to help 👍
Gave me more confidence to have mechanic do it.
@@cbx500cbx That's what's nice too about videos. You can preview the job and see if it's something you can do.
This is exactly what that I’m doing now
Your video was outstanding!!!!! I did this very same job on my 08 Truck. It started first try after priming oil press. It runs ver strong. Thank you for all your help!!!!!
Awesome! Glad this was helpful 👊
I took the extra time and just pulled the engine out.
It makes life so much easier when you're doing the timing job...
Plus it gives you the opportunity to comfortably do both exhaust manifolds,
Do the rear main seal and slinger, Pull the oil PAN off clean out the pick up real nice. It gives you the opportunity to go over the motor a lot closer in detail
Especially cleaning and looking over everything.
I changed the knock sensors while the intake was off plus the heater pipe o rings to the block.
But most importantly doing the oil pump it makes life so much easier.
The extra day involved with pulling the engine is well worth it
That phaser breaking on install was crazy!! Great video!!
Thanks! Yeah that was pretty wild. I've never had that happen before or since. A crazy fluke 🤷🏻♂️
I'm sure I could take it it all apart but remembering how to put it all back together. FORGET ABOUT IT.
This is the second one i seen broken on install funny thing is i saw oh techno what ever used a racing cam phaser on bullet profing his oem phasers my ass 😅im throwing my oems in trash and getting racing ones cause the oems are junk and racing vtc to and high volume oil pump and new waterpump😮
Very nice narrative…continual coaching and direction! I liked it!
@@robertshook6361 Thanks! Glad this video was useful 🙂
Very good tutorial. I learned some extra stuff from you that other videos did not teach me.
I just found this video cause my engine is knocking and throwing timing codes ect. Im going to tackle on this project thanks to your help!
Glad this will be helpful! If you have any questions along the way feel free to post them 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotiveplease brother I wrote a comment on this video can you help me
Thanks for making this Vid. Love the screenshots and detail to do this job. One of the best channels I tune to to do a job like this.
I think you video is fanrastic very clear and concise procedure.
Oh, and did you drop the oil pan and clean out all the broken plastic guide pieces? I just did this job on my personal truck and there were several small plastic pieces in the oil pump pickup screen i had to dig out with a pick i didnt want to have oil starvation on all my new timing parts...
Thats a good point of view bro !💪🏼
Did the same to mine and found plastic pieces inside pickup tube
Never seen a video so well detailed! Thanks! Now i know where the noise is coming from on my 00 excursion v10
But it was a very good and explanatory tutorial i did love it. all the videos ive looked at they just explain what to remove and they always jump the whole process from the begining to end once they fixed it.... im thinking it took you at least 2-3 hrs icluding lunch break and trips to ford to get the parts needed at last. Thanks for this video
Cup of coffee coming your way sir….
I think valve solenoid electrically fried. That is unusual. Great video. I would pull oil strainer and check and clean oil pan. Looks a pain a tedious pain but worth it.
Excellent video. Very clear and to the point.
I did this job twice on the same expedition 5.4 3v with even less room in engine bay.
Passenger side valve cover bolts are a really tight squeeze. Had to use the perfect socket and extensions combination. The rear most are a nightmare
how many miles on the engine?
144,000 and the vct solenoid with about 4 years on it just crapped@@tongtongwang
Thanks!
Thanks for the support 👊
What really helped was putting the truck on jack stands and removing the 2 front tires to get to the back of the engine with ease
@@navajorezathlete1202 I agree! Having the truck lower makes it so you don't have to climb up and down as much 👍
Saludo desde PR gracias por su consejo,y me gustó de la manera que ajusto las cadenas con las tortillas pladticas
Dude I can't believe how much you got done before lunch your a beast man ! Props on your skills
This is exactly what I need, Thank you for the guide
I tried torquing the additional 90 degrees and my phaser moves. How did you keep yours from moving ?? I backed the bolt off then tightened to 30ft lbs then the additional 90 degrees
Fought the oil pump today for 3 hours! Come to find out one hole is defective. Wanted to cross thread by hand. Even tough to get the screw in while on the bench. SHEESH! my fingers hurt Lol
@@volcomkidd555 The pump is a challenge for sure. Bending over the radiator support gets tiring after a while.
@ValleyMobileAutomotive I finally got back around to it. I got everything put back together. Did a few turns by the crank to be sure everything moved freely. But now I am getting a popping noice from the rollers or lash adjusters? Afraid to out it all back together. Any idea? I did replace those as well.
@@volcomkidd555 See if you can identify which roller is loose. Make sure all the rollers are in place properly. If you replaced the hydraulic lifters as well it might be that they just need oil pressure to pump up. When you start it the oil pressure will tighten up the slack in the valve train. I would say if it all looks like it's installed correctly go ahead and close her up 👍
Excellent video. He never mentioned the Crankshaft Position Trigger Wheel. I bid he installed it.
That oil pump was the hardest part of the whole job. Damn ford engineers are psychotic
i have an 07 f150 with 183000 miles. It runs beautiful, only noise you hear are slight tick from injectors. I know im on borrowed time, But I just put $2k in the front end. Changed Everything, Upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods. Stabilizer links, stabilizer bushing, new front struts. I need to regroup funds before I go for the $2k timing set...
@@Jersey-GT-F150 These are great trucks! Sounds like you take good care of yours 👍
You paid $2000 to do the front end?
I did mine $275.00
Plus an extra 70 bucks for lower control arm bushings.
I don't understand why It cost you $2000 unless you paid a shop.
I reused my old crank sprocket instead of getting a new one should that be fine?
Don't forget to drop the pan and clean out all the debris That's Falling in there from the disintegrating chain. Also the screen is definitely plugged right now
I like the way you do video. simple, fast, informative, no long bs. oem parts and they failed the huge way! wow. was little nervous to order something non oem but now I'm not. 450 for 1 phaser from ford or 350 for 2 cloyes phasers, no brainer.
Thanks! I've done quite a few of these and this is the first time I've had failure on an OEM phaser straight out of the box. Price out a set of Melling phasers. If they are within your price range I would prefer them over Cloyes. Whatever you do stay far away from Dorman. Good luck on the repair! If you have any questions feel free to post 👍
@ValleyMobileAutomotive I've been going back and forth over Melling vs Cloyes, as I need to do a timing job on my 05 f250 5.4.
@@willhart7861 Melling is a bit more expensive then Cloyes but I've seen good reviews on both. I'm just about to open everything up and still hasn't decided what brand I'd go with. This type of job needs oem parts or the 2nd best option. I wouldn't go with Dorman neither.
@vladimirmacko1481 oem is so expensive compared to cloyes and melling. I'm sure oem is a better choice but I think I will take a chance on one of the others.
@@willhart7861FORD OEM phasors are made by Melling. If you aren't sure, send Melling an email. I read elsewhere on the internet this, and they confirmed it.
Other videos i watched say remove certain followers then rotating keyway to 6 oclock before removing the cam. Then they put the followers in after cam is installed. Do the valves riding on the cam affect torque when torquing the cam. Or affect the cam when removing and installing? Dont get me wrong i like your method better. Just asking before i try it.
Same question. This method looks way easier, just want to confirm?
fordtechmakeuloco does it that way
Wait so you can change out the vvt without removing the valve cover?
@@user-bt1qt8vh6y Yes, you remove the VVT solenoid gasket. With a flat screwdriver you can pop it out of the cover. Then with a 1/4" extension and a torx bit you can remove the fastening bolt on the inside. You'll want a new VVT gasket for installation 👍
Awesome video, doing this job right now. Your video helped me sooo much thanks!
@@BrandonMartinez-on7rw Awesome! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Approximately how much do a job like this run?
Is it possible for the left and right chain guides (one that tensioner pushes) to be installed on the wrong side? I didn't check too well which side its goes.
Curious how long this entire job shown here takes younas a pro?
the Melling High Volume oil pump is the best upgrade for that engine ... really increases oil flow .. plus run 5-30 oil instead of 5-20
my Melling oil pump locked up within the first year
I wouldn't use Melling for anything because they are not high quality like OEM. 😂
@@PaulHenreidyes Melling sucks. I wouldn't use anything Melling. The tensioners are known to lock up out of the box and the chains are inferior OEM is the only thing that should be used. AutoZone and Advanced are Chinese crap.
Negative. Melling is an inferior parts company that makes junk OEM is the only professional reputable parts that should be used. Advanced and AutoZone are crap.
Did I see correctly there is not a gasket between the oil pump and the block?
@@manderson6850 That's correct 👍
Holy crap. You did all that without swearing...or was it edited out! Haha. Looking to have that done to my pos 5.4l 3v. Looks like I'll be poor after this fix. Pretty extensive job.
4:25 I struggled with that 18 mm bolt for the power steering pump bracket it is a pain in the rump for me too.
I'm in the process of doing this right now as I'm posting this
@@justariflefromjordan Yeah It's at a weird angle. How's it been going so far?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive going a lot better taking my time good thing I have extra days off I'm going to do the timing chains the guides and the tensioners and then retime the bank number to. It actually skipped a couple teeth and still ran surprisingly
@@justariflefromjordan Nice! If you have any insights or questions feel free to post. Happy wrenching 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I'm a lot happier now that I got everything tore down to where it needs to be. Haha
awesome!!! excellent video this is going to help me !!
Can you possibly damage the cam torquing the caps with the rockers installed? Aren’t you essentially forcing the cam against the rollers using the cap bolts? And it looks like you left the sticker on the LH chain guide when you installed the chain?
Good question. The valve springs will compress this is normal. It's important that the cam is in the correct position so you don't open a valve that's not supposed to be open. If you put it back the way it was removed then no damage will occur.
Why is the crankshaft timing mark so far past six o'clock?
Awesome video. I've gotten to putting the second chain on and the chain slack is on the top section, not the bottom. My timing mark is about 12 o'clock. Other marks line up. I did have to turn the phaser counter-clockwise some as you did to get the chain to line up. Interesting note, my guides were broken just as in your video and some wear to the inside cover from the chain.
If your crank link lines up go ahead and keep turning the phaser counter clockwise until all the slack is on the bottom. It's ok if the phaser timing mark isn't at 12 o'clock when you're finished. As long as the links are lined up properly and your chain isn't upside down. One side has two colored links the other side has one. Make sure the right one is on the phaser.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Chains are correct and crank has key way at 12. Will turning the phaser counter clockwise turn the cam too much? As I turn it, the chain gets tight up against the upper guide and the phaser nearly stays by itself, but not quite and wants to rotate back clockwise. Do I just place the guide in there while I have it rotated some?
@@sn-es9gb Yes, because it's not staying in place for you you'll need to hold the cam from moving while you put the tensioner arm and tensioner on. Once the tensioner is on you're all set 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Awesome. It did not take much of a turn to get the guide and tensioner in place. Cover back on. Can I rotate the crank at this point to be sure there is no interference or is that not advised?
@@sn-es9gb Nice! Once the tensioners are torqued you can rotate the engine 👍
I have everything taken apart and now I just have to order the timing kit but the link you have says that it’s unavailable. Would you be able to put an updated link up?
@@GhostDog88 Thanks for letting me know. I updated the parts list to include Melling timing components 👍
I greatly appreciate your post! Quick question, just like your passenger cam shaft released about 15 deg, in mine, I had the bar off and was pulling the loose chain when it sprung the same radius and stopped. Could that little unrestricted rotation damage something internal? I am going back with all new roller followers and Ford phasers. I got nervous about it. Please share your thoughts. Thank you.
I don't think the sudden stop is because it's hitting anything. I think it's just the other valve springs preventing the cam from rotating further on it's own. Also the spring force and speed of rotation isn't enough to bend a valve or damage the piston head.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thank you very much. I will sleep better now.!
Do I need to bleed the coolant when all is said and done?
Yes. These are really easy to bleed.
1. Fill degas bottle to full
2. Warm up engine with heat on high
3. Fill degas bottle with engine running until it maintains at the full mark.
4. Let engine cool and top off as needed.
@ValleyMobileAutomotive thanks! That's what I did. Figured since there wasn't a radiator cap that would be how to do it. Now I just gotta figure out why oil pressure won't build and why it's throwing P0351 codes. Gotta love it 🤦♂️😂
I think you are a very good mechanic. Nice to see.
I have 2010 f150 with nearly 200k. A leaking tensioner prompted me to do a timing job on it, but when I pulled the valve cover I had one rocker off the valve, which chewed one lobe of the cam a bit. The follower locks are missing. The valve moves freely. Do you think it’s safe to replace the cam and followers specifically with not being able to find the locks for the one valve and complete the timing job or am I risking the valve is bent or something? Or those locks I cannot find doing damage down the road ?
@@rwoodhull147 Quick question, is the valve spring still connected to the valve with the keepers? Usually a bent valve will cause compression issues and a misfire. Do you have any misfires?
@ it was running very rough, but I attribute that to the oil pressure issue because of the leaking tensioner. I found the spring, follower, and washer near the area, but the keepers are missing, which is what is causing me concern. I used a camera to look into the spark plug hole. I saw light impact on the piston top where the carbon was knocked off in the shape of the valve, but no damage. The valve seems to move freely by hand.
I would want to confirm the valve isn't damaged. I recommend putting it back together enough just to do a compression test. You'll want to put the valve spring back on before doing the test. As far as finding the keepers I would run a pocket magnet all over the top of the head. It's possible they were flushed into the oil pan. If the valve isn't sealing then the head will need to be removed.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive that’s a good idea! I was thinking I’d need to remove the head to ensure no valve seating damage.
@rwoodhull147 Let us know how it goes 👍
Devastated. Not sure what exactly happened with aligning crank shaft way at 12 o’clock and phaser at top view as shown in every single video I’ve looked but some how after pulling cam out to drop in new rollers and hydraulic lashes, I put cam back where I removed ( took picture something went wrong.
Putting new phaser back on after installing everything I mentioned including spark plugs, my phaser mark was down at 4 o’clock position left bank.
My question is there a way to install chain without removing all followers, free spin phaser to where it should be, then installing followers one by one after chain is installed?
You do not need to remove any followers to adjust the cam. If the phaser dowel pin is lined up correctly then you can just turn the whole cam COUNTER Clockwise to put the timing mark in the right spot. You will feel it if a valve makes contact with the piston head which isn't a big deal unless you continue to force it. If this does happen then just remove the cam and reinstall it in the correct position.
The way the ford genius on RUclips does it is to get TDC at 12 o'clock then go to 6 o'clock and remove exhaust roller on cylinder one and on cylinder 4 remove intake which has two rollers. Bank 2 just the opposite on bank 5 remove intake which has two rollers and bank 8 remove exhaust which is one roller. Total of 6 and that takes the pressure off and give you the slack so nothing spins
I guess what I’m saying is set at 12 o’clock and visually looking at left side and confirming it an “L” I screwed up, it should have been a “R” from the perspective of of being in the cab (passenger side). I did go back remove cam and the new followers and replaced the cam and phasers without the followers (now I’m forced to by tool). I can now spin the phasers freely to position R and L correctly, something is telling me that would make it 180 degrees out. 1.) Question If that’s so how do I confirm and correct?
2.) when you turn the crank camshaft 1 complete revolution, 12 o’clock to 12 o’clock, is that 1 complete revolution or 1/2 ? Meaning key way goes around twice to complete a revolution.
I’m ready for chain but something is telling me there’s a problem. Please let me know. Thanks
I guess I’m overthinking my screw up. 1 revolution is a complete. After I install chain, timing will be correct and all I have to do is move crank to get cam lobs out of the way to insert the followers ?? I think….
@@cam6715 You are correct. If you don't want to wait for the tool the followers don't need to be removed. You can pull the cam back off and install the followers. The passenger cam will want to roll clockwise and rest there. That's fine, in the video the cam can be rotated counterclockwise when installing the chain to match up the marks. But whatever you feel comfortable with is the best option 👍. If you have any more questions feel free to reach out.
Great Job !! I need to do the same job on mine how much would you charge me ???
How much you charge to do the same job for a 2006 5.4 timing replacing? This is what I need. And how many days it takes tob do this job?
Is it possible to remove the timing cover off while the power steering pump is mounted and I just take off the Pulley? Got two really stripped bolts from the rust but I got the one off from the back of the pump and it looks like it’s bolted onto the timing cover?
@@kswadehesss1234 I wish I knew, I haven't tried without removing the pump. I know at least one bolt goes through the cover and the pump hides a 13mm cover bolt. Let us know how it goes 👍
So when replying the camshaft when do I install the cam followers?
What do you think of Powertrain Max? Have you used that company for engines of Transmissions? I would use you as my mechanic but I am in North Carolina. It looks like you're in Washington State
Ever since COVID I have had bad bad issues with out of box defective parts.
Ford.
Honda,
Chrysler.
Standard Auto.
You name it, parts have been dodgy ever since the coof.
I had a standard auto glow plug relay fail right out of the box.
I’ve changed dozens of them over the last 30 years and this is the first one that was bad the minute I plugged it in.
That same job I opened the glow plug box up and one box inside the large box was empty.
The larger box was sealed when I got it.
I’ve never seen that before.
Parts just aren’t what they are supposed to be.
I replaced a fan belt on an F250 a few months ago.
It’s already worn out. The pulleys are all good as is the tension.
It just an inferior part. I have never had a Gates belt fail on me like that before.
Don’t get me started on Mercedes parts lately.
I was going to buy a new Sprinter; forget it.
That phaser breaking and the VTC being bad doesn’t surprise me in the least.
Will all of these parts fit the 2008 F150 5.4 3V ?
@@jasonhouse6056 All the parts should fit your 2008 👍
One I torque down my right side the top part of the chain gets loose what can be causing this and how could I fix it
@@emmanuelcastro169 Just to make sure you mean the passenger side? Turn the camshaft counterclockwise to remove the slack. All the slack should be at the bottom where the tensioner goes. Install the guide and tensioner and it will stay tight. Make sure your timing marks are still lined up 👍
I have seen a few videos showing crankshaft notch be placed at the 6 o'clock position. Is placing it at 12 the correct way?
Good question. The crank keyway at the 12 o'clock position is the correct way.
If you put it in the 6 o'clock position none of the timing marks will be in the right place.
Yes exactly the way ur saying the dimple isn't at six o clock so I'm confused how the chain will be on correctly
@valleymobileautomotive
Dylantew6758 isn't saying put the key way at 6 o clock he's saying put the keyway at 11 like the ome tool does so that dimple is at the 6 oclock
@@sebastianendres8062 I see what you're saying. So with the keyway at 12 o'clock like I show in this video the dimple will be at 7 o'clock. This is how the manual has you set the timing. If you watch the video at time index 29:50 you'll see how the marks line up 👍
you need a pulley press to put harmonic balancer on
Do you have any idea how much this job cost ????
Great video. You are a very skilled and very thorough mechanic. Where are you located or is there a shop on Long Island, NY?
@@SP-gz5jx Thanks! Unfortunately I'm not familiar with that area to recommend a place.
How about in Southern California ??
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive any good place in Southern California ..??
@@josearamirez9469 My advice is to shop around. Look at reviews and pick the best combination of good ratings and price 👍
What mileage should these Timing chains be changed .
Good question. Timing chains don't have a replacement interval like timing belts. They will usually only get replaced if they are causing problems or if they need to be removed for another repair. For instance on this vehicle the cam phaser was the real issue but it made sense to go ahead and replace the chains and tensioners as well.
why was your keyway at 12 and timing dot at 7.i used the tool to line mine up , does that mean your timing is wrong or is mine?
Good question. Both timing positions are correct. The important part is that the colored links line up with the timing marks 👍
awesome job man!
Thanks! Glad this video is helpful.
I did mine using the Melling timing set with ratchet tensioners. Locked out the phasers (no tune), and used the Melling high volume high pressure 360 oil pump. Truck runs amazing and I notice no difference in mileage or power.
@TheCheesyHOGAN I ordered the 3-391SCC from Amazon. It ended up being drop shipped, likely could've got it cheaper just ordering direct.
What phasers did you use? I'm considering using Melling also. Are you still satisfied with it?
I wouldn't use Melling anything.
What is the typical cost for this type of job - parts and labor combined?
Using the crankshaft alignment tool, the dot on the crankshaft is supposed to be in the 6 o’clock position. Yours looked like it was more 7 or between 7 and 8. And for torquing the phaser’s they have a tool that locks the gear to the head so nothing will move.
You are correct, they make special tools you can purchase if you feel more comfortable doing it that way.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I was tightening the left side of the camshaft gear and it jumped to the left about like a half turn ! And now my chain on that side do not lined up the marks ! Can I move the gears while the crankshaft keyway its at the 11 o clock position I use the timing tool and I already set the time to the correct way! But then that happen ! Do I need to place the Crankshaft keyway at the 12 o clock position and then re aligned the camshaft gears or how that does work? Or can I aligned while it’s at the perfect timing set 11 clock and dot mark at the 6 clock
Thank u
Whats its ir can you post the link here ???
Hey did you move the crankshaft
I take it you're in WA? I'm a mobile tech in Spokane :) Nice job!!
My 05 was throwing codes for the cam sensor on the drivers side so I pulled the timing cover and the chain on the drivers side was broken. It ran when parked there though just had a miss. Well when I tore into it the phasers on both sides had the L on top. Is that okay or is the cam going to be positioned wrong on the passenger side?
You need L for drivers side and R for passengers side
The dot on the crankshaft gear needs to be at the 6 o’clock position and there should be two colored links that are next to each other on each chain. Line those up between the L and R on the cams. Then there is a single colored link that needs to line up with the dot on the crankshaft sprocket at 6 o’clock like I said
I thought I was at 12 but it’s more like 1 . I I took the chain off already. I’m just curious is it OK to rotate the rank back around to 12 . I have the special tool that times It can I use that ?
@@okechifurlow8857 You can try. You just need to be careful when turning the crank independently of the cams. If it feels like it doesn't want to turn don't force it 👍
So should I put the chain back on then rotate😊
@@okechifurlow8857 Only if you line up the timing correctly. Otherwise just use caution when turning the crank.
Where are you located? Need this job done
Excellent video! Where are you located? Ph #?
Excellent video
Great vid
You have taken the mystics out of a very thought banging concept.
Next vid please go into a brief chat about how the replaced parts function big picture.
Again, great vid.
Great job,I needed to see this
I was tightening the left side of the camshaft gear and it jumped to the left about like a half turn ! And now my chain on that side do not lined up the marks ! Can I move the gears while the crankshaft keyway its at the 11 o clock position I use the timing tool and I already set the time to the correct way! But then that happen ! Do I need to place the Crankshaft keyway at the 12 o clock position and then re aligned the camshaft gears or how that does work? Or can I aligned while it’s at the perfect timing set 11 clock and dot mark at the 6 clock
You can rotate the camshaft back in position without moving the crankshaft. Your tool at 11 o'clock can stay in place. You might need to remove the chain tensioner if it's already installed to give it more slack.
Currently doing this job at home. Then going to get rid of this truck and buy a chevy
Hey man I really need your help, I’m doing this job and I watched someone else’s video to time the engine and they said that passenger camshaft lobe has to be facing approximately 11’o clock position on cylinder 1. Is that true or it doesn’t matter as long as R and L is facing up. Please brother I have to finish this soon
When my cylinder 1 lobe goes to 11’o clock position crankshaft goes to approximately 2’o clock
@@ahmedpanwala5584 Are you removing the old chain or installing the new one?
@@ahmedpanwala5584 Don't worry about the cam position too much when removing the timing chain. As long as it's not 180 degrees off. The phaser may be stuck out of time. Focus on the crank being at 12 o'clock and remove the chain like in this video. When putting it back together focus on the new chain colored links lining up with the gears and you should be set 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive omg thank you so much couldn’t sleep last night haha
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I’m installing the new one now, cylinder 1 lobe are still not facing 11’o clock but the phaser is facing up and the coloured links line up shouldn’t be a problem right?
I have an o9 fx4 w bad cam phasers and I can hear the chain at start up I unplugged the phasers under hood that seemed to stop the awful cam chatter...I am a bit intimidated by this job I asked a couple mechanic friends and they told me it will post 1500 2000 to 3500 to pay to have it done so that is not an option I have to it myself
What timing kit did you use here? Ford OEM or aftermarket?
Good question. I only use Ford OEM parts on these. Aftermarket phasers are terrible! Ford parts are updated to fix the original issues they had. A link to a full OEM kit is in the description 👍
How long did this job take you?
Nice video man
Thanks! 👍
37:14 how do you keep the engine from turning when getting this thing torqued?
@@GhostDog88 I use an impact with the original bolt to suck it in until it bottoms out. Then I remove the bolt and install the new one. Getting 37 lb.ft. should be easy without the engine turning. Then I use an impact for the last 90*. I mark a vertical line on the bolt and when it's horizontal that's 90*.
How come everyone else says you have to put in the roller followers with the camshaft in place? Getting ready to do this. Just don't want to ruin anything.
@@jaholl97 If you are doing the timing chain as well it's easier to remove the camshaft with all the roller followers still installed. The manual has you remove 3 followers on each side before removing the timing chain but I have found this step to be unnecessary as long as you know what to expect. If you are only doing the followers and not the timing chain then it would be up to you to remove the camshaft or just do each roller individually.
Excellent video presentation. Sad new part quality control by suppliers to Ford. I wonder if going with aftermarket replacements would have saved you time?
Thanks! Yeah it's unfortunate. Since this video I've installed Melling components on a different truck. We'll see how they last. Melling is a known good brand. Definitely don't go generic or Dorman!
To be clear did you take off the radiator? Im gonna have this on my shop TV and hit multiple pauses. Thanks.
@@davebielicki404 Good question. I left the radiator in 👍
Good vid, thanks.
Your video very helpful. Thanks!!
Link timing kit please, to México, thanks.
how much does something like this cost. I've been looking at a high mileage truck with a 5.4.
$1000 if you go to a shop and
A couple hundred if you do it yourself
is it $700-$1000 just for the parts? or is that for a shop to do it?
@@GhostDog88 Good question. That's the diy cost if you do this yourself.
What state are you in and how much do you charge@@ValleyMobileAutomotive
Why in some videos are people timing the crank keyway at 12:00 and some its 11:00 with timing mark at 6 o'clock ?
@@justkiknit Both methods are acceptable. My manual says 12:00 for the crank keyway. The most important thing is that your new chain colored links line up with the timing marks on the gears 👍
What do you charge for a job like this?
Prices vary depending on where you live and local shop rates. I recommend getting a quote from a local shop with a good reputation. Some shops won't do this repair and will only replace the whole engine so you may need to shop around.
The fan clutch is not 36mm on my 5.4 it’s way too small
Where are you located?
Great video awesome detail
Good Video. But you missed a lot of info verifying top dead center for cylinder 1 and the tool to set it. And those aren't OEM Phasers that's why it broke. Real Ford Guy here. did my wifes Expy doing my F150 soon
Getting ready to do everything he did in this video so if I understand you correctly you mean make sure you have the key way on crank set with the tool to ensure cylinder 1 is at TDC replace lashes and follower than input cam than timing components?
@@johnjayboyd5944 According to the Ford Factory Service Manual a timing chain replacement involves having the keyway at three different locations - 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 11 o'clock (TDC set with a tool puts crankshaft timing mark at 6) in that order, and removing certain roller followers at certain points. Like many, this mechanic stayed at keyway 12 o'clock and save a lot of time by carefully removing the camshaft caps in a balanced manner to release pressure evenly to quickly remove all the roller followers at once instead of using a valve compression tool for each rocker arm.
Cylinder 1 has got to be in compression stroke at its peek for a fact or it will be off time.
@@iPutTheJinGenius5 where would the crankshaft keyway be located?
@@hauntastic158 the original was what broke in the car and my test before I did the one in the engine actually easier to knock the top off on the OEM than the Amazon junk that's got me going now for 5 days with no problems just saying.
You installed the crankshaft seal flush--don't think that is right! Inside the front cover it is champhered--the seal goes flush with the champher, not the front cover.
Where are you located. Could you mine?
@ 18:04 did you mean to say keyway at 12? Or 6?
@@GhostDog88 I meant to say the keyway is at 12:00 👍
Installed new sealed power lifters, im getting clatter on start up, should I just rev engine or pull lifters and prime them with paper clip? I soaked them a lil, that’s all. Thanks
If you're sure it's lifter noise then just let it idle for a while. They should eventually pump up. Don't rev it up much while they're loose because you can throw a rocker.
Hi I was wondering when you were having issues with the vvt solenoid and the engine running rough would it show signs while idling and giving gas? I have an issue with mine that I want to try and locate before tearing down. Sounds like slap/knock but only when given gas