BiB Brothers in Boots Volume 4 detailed discussion on PATTERNS for boots
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- Опубликовано: 14 фев 2024
- Volume 4 of boot discussion with Mike & Jeff. This volume specifically is about PATTERNS used in boots, and everything about those patterns
#Leather #harness #chelsea #romeo #engineer #engineerboots #monkey #heels #dogger #blogger #cuban #midsole #arch #shank #canvas #whites #usa #pnw #logger #loggers #loggerboots #counter #vamp #passthrough #seidel #horween #wickettandcraig #law #lawtannery #Galun #cfstead #maryum #shinki #boots #pnw #franks #franksboots #spokane #nicks #nicksboots #handmade #mto #temper #pnwboots #wesco #cxl #chrome #bison #horse #horserump #vibram 
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Another outstanding talk gentlemen 🎉
🥂
haha. The Blue Oyster. I can't remember the last time someone made a reference to that.
....'' will you still love me... tomorrow...."
haha
turquoise Badalassi Carlo... a bit loud,, but looks so nice
I sand off the Feibings edge cote on all my boots and finish with Tokenol and burnish with wood. It’s so much more water resistant.
I know some people who do the Tokenol. It's a pretty cool choice 👍
I have learned more from watching you guys on youtube than I have from any where else online. There are so many details to learn about it is dizzying, and on many subjects there isn't very much real world experience out there. You guys have obviously learned a lot by trying things out yourselves, it has been a great resource thank you.
One suggestion I would make would be to edit up these talks into smaller videos that address one topic specifically. I know from experience that when you google around there is often no where near as much information out there on some of these topics as there is hidden deep in these long discussions.
Yes, we struggled a lot with what the length of each one should be. Some people want something 15 to 20 minutes long for when they have a moment to themselves, while others spend an hour commuting/traveling somewhere and want something longer. We have broken the subjects up as much as we feel we can, but they are going a good 15 minutes longer than we expected each time. 🤷♂️
@@cloveroak5492 I greatly enjoyed the talk and don't mind the length at all.
I just mean that for example the talk of Franks Ryker boot will not come up in any search results for someone searching the web. But if you made a separate short video of the part of this video where you were discussing that topic, it would be much more accessible to the wider public and bring more people to your channel through search results.
You guys are a hidden treasure trove of information, which is great for me as I have already found you, but you should be a lot more widely known in the boot community than you are now.
Another great episode, love your info and descriptions :)
Also stoked Nick's tankerpros made an appearance at the end as I've been calling an 8" pair of those in black CXL, home for the last 3 months. 55 last classic heal, honey vibram lug sole.
Nice while I like the tanker style and almost had one the predator mouth it's gets was too much for me could not unsee it. My boutines/cowboy Chelsea gives me the same ease. I do like the honey on black leather it is a cool combo wish Dr sole would come out in a natural half sole which would be the same color as I would use it a TON.
Amazing video as always, Jeff. How about one about "accessories" like laces, kilties, socks, etc? I think it would be nice!
On the list 📃 ☺
BTW, we covered this in #7
Has frank ever discussed how the unlined rykers are expected to hold up to rebuilds?
There is a leather boarder around all of the canvas, so I would expect exactly the same.
But no, I've never seen or heard of it being discussed directly.
I know I am writing a bunch of questions, I hope you do not take the time to answer them here, but instead keep them as material for future BiB boot talks. They are very helpful and I want you guys to keep them up if you are willing to be so kind.
If you were looking to make spec out a custom boot that is as long lasting (in mostly light duty urban walking), and as resoleable as possible, but still has the look and refinement to pass as business casual when cleaned up, what would it be? What last, leather, sole, and maker would you go with?
I know you guys have lots of great boots already, this is just a thought exercise for you guys to talk about. I am interested of course as someone who is trying to maximize their dollars and plan out my boot buys so that they are versatile and practical. Thank you.
I'll jote this down as a subject for a BiB discussion.
Thank you 🥂
I guess I don't understand what the issue is with the 55 last and a wedge sole. I wear one every day, it's the only thing that doesn't absolutely demolish my feet after 8-10 hours standing/walking on concrete. I suppose the 55 doesn't need a wedge to achieve that, but it's nice.
Issue in what way?
Who made your boot that is a 55 & a wedge?
You don't own a 55 on anything other than a wedge?
@@cloveroak5492 Maybe I didn't listen close enough or maybe I misunderstood, but I gather that the both of you do not prefer a wedge on a 55 lasted boot. I have a Rainier from Frank's and a Wilshire on order. It doesn't have a wedge, so are you hinting that I will notice the difference without the wedge?
@@averyj.steele1074 wedge on the 55 is the only way I like a wedge but in general I just don't like the wedge honestly. I prefer a half sole which on the raised floor of the datacenter I have no issues.
@@Mike-BiB Ah, ok. I do remember you guys making some comments about longevity maybe with regard to the 2021 wedge? I can see that with it's shallow tread, for sure.
@@averyj.steele1074 yeah wedge in generally due to the blown rubber is just softer but it's left can be extended with a glue on vibram Sierra sole. More grip too
Do either of you guys have any experience with the HNW / NW last? It has less heel height and arch support, and it usually comes in a block heel. It is carried by Franks, Nicks, and Whites, but I do not see nearly as many custom boots made on it.
IMO (Jeff) the HNW is for the rare person that cannot wear the high arch so they don't get left out. Or for the person that doesn't have the fortitude to risk buying the high arch for fear it won't work for them. I guess a 3rd possibility is the person more worried about aesthetics and wants the lower heel you can only get with the HNW. I personally need the high arch, so the HNW is not for me. I think Mike owns a HNW, and I think he regrets it. I will talk to him an edit this response if I'm recalling incorrectly.
No Jeff is correct all my HNW has been converted to 55 except one pair. Last is not for me I prefer the high arch and find the balance in that last lacking compared to other makers. We do have one friend that likes the HNW more so you have a super specific question about it?
I would like to know more about your guys' opinion on horsehide leather in boots. I saw an interview with Horween where it was said that horse is naturally more durable and longer lasting than cow hide. Has this been your experience? There was a quick mention of horse in the video, and I was hoping if you could expand on that.
Is there any specific maker or horse leather product out there that is more durable than the others? Is the veg tanned Maryam Horsebutt as durable forgiving to wear and water as Horween CXL Horsebutt or Shinki?
Can any of these horse leathers be polished back to looking close to business casual/presentable after having been scuffed/scratched/road rashed?
Ok there what a lot of questions here but the short answer is I think horse is the best casual leather personally. Shinki is not for everyone but Maryam is an awesome choice a great all rounder and it can be kept business casual with no issues. Durability wise it is great while in some cases thinner it has a ton of strength in the rump and the shoulder.
In terms of durability CXL is not a great work leather it gets carved up no issues but horse is pretty easy to repair is struck through and takes creams like Saphir quite well. I will say personally I choose Dublin over CXL but horse is better than both it's just double the price in terms of hides to Sqft which is why less makers carry it.
Horse should have its own episode. There is a lot of confusion out there about parts of the horse, and different characteristics associated with various tanneries.
@@cloveroak5492 Sounds like a good topic for a future talk. Thanks.
@@Mike-BiB Thank you for your response, it is very helpful. I hope you guys can discuss this in a future video so more people can know your opinion on it.
Keep in mind when Skip mentions Horse being that strong. It was really in reference to the original work shoe butt that was tanned with cedar eons ago. What companies call modern day work shoe butt compared to what vintage work shoe butt was are two vastly different things unfortunately.
But it wasn't just Horween. Any of the old growth trees that were Western Red Cedar, Sequoia and especially Hemlock made for arguably an overall better work leather. We don't have the 150+ years to get the resin out of a Hemlock for tanning, the 100+ years for Western Red Cedar, and Sequoia trees 500-800 years old. The bark was a bi-product of that but you simply can't speed up the time needed to get the properties of the resin from the tree.
That is why old growth cedar fences and railroad ties lasted a century or more. Where as modern day cedar is harvested at such a young age when building a cedar fence or cedar roof shingles it rots when untreated within 10-20 years.
Instead Birch, Oak, and even Pine Resin take far less time to Mature. A Ponderosa Pine Tree is fully mature around 80 years give or take as an example. You can always tell when they mature because the bark changes. The texture is very gnarled and goes from brown to a greyish very thick rough texture. That's when the resin is ready and it's often sign of the maturity of the tree.
But if you look up how strong the resins from a tanning aspect nothing is comparable to Western Hemlock. Cedar/Sequoia was a 30-34% or so and Western Hemlock was a 54%. It made incredibly durable and dry rot resistant leather at a far thinner weight.
Keep in mind too, we have different fat liquors, oils, and waxed than we once did as well. Suppliers and tanneries will still tinker with these things often.