@Mario Salinas Also the pull start is a lot more convenient the momentum start of the 2 stoke engines. Its annoying to petal, start, stop, fiddle with choke, petal and start. Most annoy part of owning 2 stroke.
Dude I'm 17 and this is the first time I've learned something from someone younger than me regarding mechanical stuff. Great vid and channel dude keep at it!
@@scottd8555 RIGHT! Next week I will haven been a certified master technician and I just CAN NOT believe I’ve been mistaking the intake manifold for the air filter! 🤷🏻♂️
Go to agree with Pop-Tart because that wasn't an intake manifold. That was an air cleaner and That piston was not ported cuz it would been have cutouts in the skirt. Yeah, that's for sounding like a Harley. No way a single-cylinder can sound like a twin?
@@maxsmotorsports8094 another tip, also expensive, probably more than the piston is a balanced or higher grade crank, that alone will make the bike FLY. Substantial mid range torque, moderate high end.
Has anybody ever adjusted the choke with a warm two-stroke engine at full throttle and gotten it to get a huge boost? I ran into someone else with a motorized bike years ago and they told me about this. It took a while for me to figure out exactly how to do it because it tends to want to bog the engine out, but when you get the right balance it really takes it to another level. I'm scared to run one like this too long because it goes so much faster and sounds like the RPMs are so much higher. Anyone else got any stories of doing this, or is this just a good way to destroy your engine quickly?
Hey Max. Cool vid! You really handle yourself on camera! Super confident! Try slowing down a little, don't rush. And try to make sure your research is all spot on. Everything was right (cept maybe the... Uh... Air cleaner?) But I think you know your shit. Enjoyed it. Turned on notifications, see what you got next! Relax. Have fun. You'll make money at this!
I'm an old gearhead. This is exactly how I started out. Now I'm older, I have graduated to custom bobber, choppers, rat rods, leadsleds and muscle cars. Never sold anything. Life is good. Best of luck to ya kid.
Warning, when u take off the cap it restricts the top end, it helps with the bottom end so you lose speed. Because the engine needs that back pressure. (As said in the vid)
3:04 that is not an itake manifold thats the airfilter. The intake manifold is whats on the back of the carb which you actually have a modified CNC machined one.
A 2 cycle engine does NOT need "back pressure!" What it needs is a tuned exhaust. We call these an "expansion chamber." The positive and negative pulsations, at the right time, will VASTLY increase the power output. A negative pressure wave, with the exhaust port open, and a special intake port, will allow the pipe to suck intake mixture, out the exhaust port. After the intake port closes, a positive shock wave, will actually force that unburnt charge, back IN to the combustion chamber. I've been riding 2 stroke motorcycles for, about 40 years now. A GOOD expansion chamber is simply AMAZING! My old Yamaha RD-400, with stock pipes, put out about 40 HP. With expansion chambers, 65 horses. I currently run a Sickbike.com expansion chamber. A unique feature of this pipe, is the joints are flexible, and won't crack off, like your stock pipe did. steve
I never knew motorized bike kits existed until recently. I`m starting to build my very first one and I will definitely tune into your channel for tips as I go. Just so you know, I have taken your advice and ordered a 36 tooth sprocket, thanks for the tip...keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.
Porting taking out the excess material/ smoothing the cylinder is actually pretty easy. 2 tools that are necessary are a torque wrench and metal file “Optional Dremel” Use your torque wrench to take off cylinder head then slide off the cylinder. Use you tool to remove the excess material then polish the surface. “Important make sure all metal shavings are removed before you put it back together”
Great video, I was in my late 20’s before I knew half as much about engines as you’ve explained concisely in this video. I just got an 80 cc kit to go on a kabuki bike. New tires, new seat, new paint job and obviously new motor, and I saved about $1500 from the electrics I was eyeballing, still way better for the air than driving my van everywhere.
Pro tip = muffler, intake and sprocket are easy upgrades. The smaller sprocket increases top speed, but it need more torque to spin. Adding a better exhaust system and intake are easy upgrades that increase both HP and torque. So, more torque means u can add a bigger sprocket. Which equals just as good acceleration but with better top speed Hope I helped one of y’all out!
Hello Max; My name is Francis Klambauer; I am a 59 yr old retired teacher ( Defencive Driving instructor)- I just bought my first gas powered mountian bike and your tutorial was GREAT! You should consider a future in mechanic's , teaching or instructing something - Your a natural!! Best of Luck my friend!
Thank you! I am leaning towards doing something with mechanics. Thank you for the positive comment! It’s always great to hear! I hope you enjoy your bike!
One BIG reliability mod that'll make many things go more smoothly: ditch the rag joint. Kits come with a couple pieces of old tire to clamp the sprocket to your spokes, which will fail and likely keep the sprocket from being concentric with the wheel. Instead, opt for a cnc adapter that clamps directly to the hub of the wheel, or maybe a disk brake rotor adapter.
I just wanna say u are about my age and you are doing great at RUclips you deserve way more subs keep up the great work man this video was really helpfull
No two stroke will ever sound like a Harley Davidson Motorcycle!!! I do support you though👍🏁You're getten there kid keep up the good work, seem like a good kid, stay that way youll go father in life.👌🆒👊💪🙏☝
George I would like to kindly disagree because it’s impossible to make a 2 stroke that sounds like a Harley it doesn’t have and never will have that low rumble and rolling piston and steps a 4 stroke does and a Harley does a 2 stroke has a high pitched sound more like pap pap pap
I am old very poor on fixed income working on a chain shifter motor side, that you can bump-start as well (no videos yet but there are pictures on my YT community page) but it keeps on changing, its a work in progress
The intake manifold is between the carb and the cylinder...the piece on the backside of the carb is the air cleaner and using a velocity stack is one way to increase flow. Good job with the video :).
I saved myself a lot of speed and power issues by buying everything on my Bikeberry bike. From Bikeberry. A 48cc BBR Tuning motor with 48 t sprocket. 18 t pedal sprocket. And Speedometer. It was toping out at 42mph. I added their vapor reclaim bottle to the intake. And exhaust expansion muffler. Top end went to 55mph. On their Switz Cruise bike. Drawback is it's a heavy duty bike. Pro is it's strong.
Contrary to belief these motor kits are designed to be ran at 20mph. Yes they will reach 35mph full throttle right out of the box but running them full throttle will destoy them as well as the bicycle . If you read the book that comes with the kit they have a 5000rpm redline with the stock 44 tooth sprocket the kits come with that is 22.5 mph . So if you want to go fast buy a motorcycle not a bicycle . Pluss like all motors there is a break in period 10 mph for the first 100 miles then do not ever exceed 20mph. I build these and sell them every day and 90% of the people i sell them to take off from my shop screaming down the street and the next day they call me screaming and yelling at me how i ripped them off .no i did not rip them off they ripped themselves off by not following instructions instead of reading the book they throw it away . The biggest complaint i get is how come it won't keep up with my friends Hybusa ? Realy do you think a $400 b8cycle is going to keep up with a $40'000 racing motorcycle? For the most part people are stupid and always trying to get something for nothing.sorry these are put put bikes not race bikes .
Yeah. If you want to keep them in good shape then driving slow is better, but for most people including me I would rather drive faster and have to replace more parts. My neighbor used to have bikes that would probably go 40-50mph and they didn’t break much at all because most all of the parts were high quality and built by a mechanic. Your right though, with the parts that come out of the box it’s most likely best to drive them easy to make them last, otherwise they are probably going to break and wear out.
maybe ya didn't notice Zack, but he already has a engine on his bike, lol, ya should've told him to carry a few playing-cards in his pocket for when he breaks-down and has too peddle, lol
So what I did with my stock exhaust is: 1) I took the baffle off and cut the skinny pipe, 2) I put the baffle tip back on to keep back pressure, 3) I drilled a few 1/4" holes near the bottom around the outside. Drilling the holes was a bit of a risk, but it made a 2-3mph difference in my limited testing. This was it keeps some back pressure, doesn't sound too loud, and gives you more power.
At the moment I have no exhaust because my bolts sheered off on mine and I get oil on everything which then causes dirt to collect. Honestly the only issue I have is that it doesn’t want to idle well with no muffler. And it either will die or becomes a run away engine.. sometimes I can adjust the idler but depending on the engine temperature it idles differently
bruh an exhaust is not gonna add horsepower. the engine makes like 2.5 horses anyways. not hating just saying. and don’t polish your intake port because it being rough helps with fuel atomization. great video otherwise tho
You forgot something very important….the fuel you use. When I was 16 in 1977 I was able to get a Honda 49cc engine to go 50mph by doing everything you said plus using trick fuel 110 octane. When you use racing fuel you’ll need to ad more oil to cool the engine.
I think a huge thing with these bikes os tuning it properly. Mine is likely far from perfect but I have been playing around with the carburetor for months now and learned a load. My bike used to run like absolutle shit. Carburetor leaked air causing it to run lean and often I would pull in the clutch while still going fast and the engine would not rev down. It should drop back to idle very quickly. Mine didn't solved that by tightening the carb on the bike very well and making a makeshift gasket with eletrical tape (I know but it works). I partially tear down my engine often and look at the internals. The cylinder has so much information based on how your engine is running. I used to do plug chops to learn about my A/F but honestly it's only a starting point. From there it's just going by sound. Rather rich than lean. My bike used to 4 stroke like crazy especially with the baffle off but a smaller main jet solved that. I have a lot of power and a top speed of 39 mph. I am running a large 44 tooth sprocket and leave my friend with my PW50 (converted to 80cc and soon hooking up nitrous) in the dust. It also shoots flames, has a truck horn, and used to have functioning diy brake lights and blinkers but the arduino malfunctions because of the electromagnetic interference. I want to try a Farraday cage but it's not working yet. One of my absolute favorite projects that keeps me happy. The looks people give my friend and I get from people that we drive by are priceless.
2 more tips. 1. Get rid of that junk stock chain tensioner and get a spring loaded one. Preferably one that mounts to the motor itself. 2. Get either mag wheels or a hub mounted sprocket adaptor. You are going to destroy those spokes
Receipe for 50+mph kit -get a compression chamber exhaust -put oil in cylinder head before first start -get a bigger carburetor -remove any excess metal shavings in cylinder head -use race gas -buy branded kits like Zeda ect -use a small sproket -do a proper engine break -upgrade spark plug
I really like how this young man has this much knowledge about engines and exhaust. This is very impressive, and it makes me very hopeful for the future. We need more hard working young men like you in this country! Good job, sir. Thanks for working hard, and teaching others your knowledge! EDIT I might want to buy an expansion chamber... How much does that help for torque?
finally an actual good video about motorized bikes. btw what i did with my exhuast is my muffler fell off one day riding and i made it back up to the shed and got a mountain bike seat post and just stuck it in the end of the bend pipe and used blue locktite and 6 pop rivets and it gives me great power and sounds mint. the reason its given me power is because the end where bike seat clamp goes on in smaller than the main bit of the post so its created back pressure for me. just an random idea i had when i did it and if your exhuast snaps in half like mine, maybe give it a shot
@@maxsmotorsports8094 yeah its just really loud and plenty of backfire, and yes im quite a bit of a bush mechanic so you know i gotta work with what ive got!
Don't feel bad, I'm 35 and I chose a Kent bike on purpose lol. I liked how the Nazz looked, in retrospect I prolly should have gone a step up, had to return the first one cause the forks were bent, the second bike is marginal but workable. It's gonna have to have the wheels trued up and the brakes adjusted, but it's got disc brakes which I'm actually mildly impressed by. The shifters not so much, but I gotta take the front sprocket off anyway, prolly gonna grab a Raleigh too. It's increasingly hard to find affordable steel frame bikes these days
Wow, you sound like you are into the motorized bike business! that's awesome..I still need to get mine fixed, but have another kit that I just bought so that should be awesome..I'm not sure what bike I'm going for yet, but probably something cheap
I owned one at a point a big problem with going to high rpm is that the exhaust can rattle loosening the screws and make the exhaust fall off it’s happened to me multiple times……
Another tip which can make em go over 45mph is to change the gearing you loose torque but get an insane top end I’m 17 and now work on cars and motorcycles sometimes doing full engine rebuilds it’s a great hobby keep up the good work man👍
Your intake manifold is after the carb bolted to the block. Keep wrenching kid. You got it. Also you port the head intake/exhaust. To make them bigger. Lol good to see kids getting after it.
That thing on the carburetor is an air breather not intake. The intake is what bolt to the head and the carburetor hooks onto it. Yes changing the air breather does help the carburetor perform way better. Also using a window piston with a reed valve is a great way to gain significant power and have your bike perform much better.
A few things is the pipes don't make the bike or motor vibrate any more then it did before. The black thing is called an air filter and you may want to look into reeds.
I got to give it to you, this has got to be the best 5 tips video I have ever seen in my life. You explain everything so well and its very easy to understand. Respect for you.
Just wanna point out, you can get a nitrous oxide kit for this for about 150 buck. I'd recommend getting cool whip canisters instead of branded racing NOS because it's a hell of a lot cheaper and it's the same thing. It basicaly used little 12 oz canisters and you press a button to puncture the canister and it blows into the air intake.
the bike brakes and the chain gets hard without putting or using the brake, how do you fix it?? Is it possible that the motor is tied or the cloucth is stuck??
Probably should have suggested something like a small engine turbo or a small engine nitrous kit, you can get them for $80 for the turbo kit and all you really have to do is add one end into your exhaust, and link the other valve back to the air intake on your carb. Then a small tank for oil and a hose to cool it off and you’re ready to kick out some more ponies.
You've covered most things I would do..(other than replacing the exhaust and rear sprocket.. I'm too cheap lol) Tip 1) Have you ever looked into piston skirt cuts?.. Remove the intake manifold.. With the motor at TDC(top dead center) Take a sharpie and trace your intake port onto the remaining portion of the piston skirt that is still visible. Cut this off with your dremel.. it allows for maximum intake through the port, as opposed to a port that's only open 2/3 of the way.. (helps on top end)..remove a little from the exhaust side to help balance. Cons: it does throw your piston out of balance some.. it's not very noticeable, but it does increase wear and tear. Tip2) pull your head cap off and color in the rim that contacts/mates to the cylinder with sharpie.. Find a hard flat surface. Get some 180-330 grit sand paper. Start with 180grit, and work your head cap in smooth circles on the sand paper, making sure to keep it flat. Work until you've removed the sharpie, keeping notice of uneven removal..recolor and repeat through your grits until you've cut that contact rim down by half..(about 0.03-0.05 of an inch!) This will help boost compression, however the same results can be achieved by removing the head gasket.. (don't though) Tip3) dremmel out the crankcase to piston ports on the cylinder..(the ones not connected to the exhaust and intake ports) making these ports bigger gives better flow, improving top end. Tip4) I guess you covered this under porting, but make sure your port transitions are smooth, and matched in shape to the next.. (intake port cut to size of intake manifold.. etc) Make sure everything is port matched. 600+ miles on my 49/66cc, self ported(628miles according to my wal mart speedometer) Max speed was 36mph on 41t and 27inch tires. Cruises 25-30mph all day~
This is a great video. Lots of knowledge. And you have an awesome way of explaining things. Really good production too. Way ahead of your time kid. You're definitely doing what you're meant to.
Hey guys, My carburetor is leaking gas from the cover area which i think is called a float. Its the NT carburetor with the red cover. I checked my donut it has no holes and it wasn't stuck. Any advice?
Hi please help if you can Stock "CHINA DOLL" 🎎 out the box Can't get 🚲 to "idle" tried everything adjusted screw 🪛 on carb Clone bofeng nt carb, checked for air leaks lil black rubber washer in carb tightened down securely. Won't sit running, engine will slowly die when off throttle, slowing down / breaking or coming to a 🛑. Have to keep hitting the ⛽ a lil to keep running.
It's called a jackshaft and you still run all that power through a bicycle chain in the end. These motors don't have enough torque to efficiently use gears.Be Happy with going 40 miles an hour with a single gear 👍
then you get live pedals which is EXTREMELY dangerous. i.e. the pedals are always pedaling, driven by the engine. these can WRECK your legs and feet. basically a blender. they make "shifter" kits that do exactly what you'd want... but they incorporate an extra freewheel into the crankset so they aren't pedaling at all times.
also if you buy the kit from Alibaba or another Chinese site, you can get them for 56 us dollars. (I checked) That's the whole kit, btw. But it's the bog-standard with the stupid rag joint. (spend like another 80 bucks and put on a hub adapter. SO MUCH BETTER!) no more broken spokes!
Max I would point out something else you didn’t mention I suggest to do to upgrade your motorized bicycle. You should remove and toss that original sprocket mount that the motor kits come with that mounts by bolts on with 2 rubber gaskets sandwiching your sprocket onto your spokes and get a sprocket adaptor where you sprocket will be secured to your hub and not risk damaging you spokes
nice handy video, but what you called the "intake manifold" is actually the air filter the intake manifold is the silver part that the carby attaches to and the intake manifold connects to the head.
hiya i have the same engine on a push bike can you show me how the coil is wired up .ie i have a blue a white and a black wire coming out off the engine and a green and black wire on the coil .if you could be so kind to show me how yours is wired up,as i say i have the same engine .Thanks .
The intake side of the cylinder is supposed to be rough as it helps the fuel/oil mixture vaporise into the cylinder which makes the engine run smoother and the exhaust side is suppose to be polished to help the gasses escape
2 stroke engines do need back pressure to operate properly. However, if you have a 4 stroke setup, back pressure in your exhaust will just reduce flow and wont help your engine push exhaust gasses out on the exhaust stroke. Good video, just wanted to make that distinction.
Try taking the baffles out of the exhaust and replacing them with a stainless steel pot scrubber then put the cap back on or if you want a little tuning possibilities use the bottom end of a spray paint can so you can experiment with the sizing of the hole for back pressure
I don’t think so. By my knowledge you have stuck with the same size because the crank is made for that size engine. There is a little sheave on the cylinder and it slides down into the crank case. If you were to get a bigger piston and cylinder I don’t think the sheave would fit into the crank case.
I’ve searched damn near every single website that sells these kits and accessories and I can’t find any cylinders called polished and ported… I was only able to find cylinders that have been polished…
Also, I agree with most in this comment section. You have great vids little dude. Please give us some more tips! I just got into small engines/motorized bikes and it’s tough to get good info on them, but your stuff is great!
Awesome! Order it through my affiliate link in the description. Its from Bike Berry and it should be a great company to deal with. Let me know if you get one!
I PUT THE 2STROKE FAT PIPE OFF EBAY AND ALSO REFABRICATED A PROCIRCUT KX100 PIPE TO FIT and ill tell you it now feels GREAT EXCACTLY WHAT I WANTED FEELS JUST LIKE A GOOD 2STROKE WOULD WITH POWERBANDS DEFFANITLY THE BEST UPGRADE I WOULD GUESS IT ADDED ABOUT 5MPH BUT ITS THE ONLY THING YOU WILL ACTAULY FEEL AS YOU SLOWLY UPGRADE EVERYTHING ELSE HELPS OVERALL .....PS GREAT VIDEO KID YOUR REALY GOOD
I have built seven of these bikes so far. I have bought high performance heads. High performance exhaust. High performance carburetors. High performance coils. And my stock $90 kits have outrun all of them. It's just a selling point I'm a retired mechanic. I understand the way engines work. These modifications should work. But usually they do not. It depends on compression ratio. You need to change the piston go higher compression ratio
@@FoxSock if you could take material from the cylinder head. Without the Piston hitting the cylinder head. You might raise the compression. Cuz your decreasing the size of the combustion chamber in the cylinder head
@@FoxSock if you actually rejet the carbs yourself. It might give it more power. If you really want to go faster put a 36 tooth gear on it. But you'll lose your low in torque when it comes to pulling Hills. But it will give you a lot more top-end
@@FoxSock well I'm 60 years old 240 lb. I need low end torque to pull the Hills. Mine will still run 28 miles an hour. Witha a 44 tooth gear. And that's too fast for me..with a 36 tooth gear you may be pushing 40 mph. I would highly recommend you put a machine clamp-on sprocket on the back at those speeds you do not want to chain the fall off. It could be catastrophic
@@FoxSock bless your heart. Can you imagine that happening at 40 miles an hour. You might have to eat some asphalt. You can buy the machine sprockets for about $60. It's well worth it because the chain runs so true your chain tensioner doesn't have any flop in it. I've had themcome off on my friends while we were riding to the lake and back. And they get wrapped up and lock up the back tire. And that's not a good day.. that's why I switched to the clamp-on CNC machine sprockets
@Nugget_of_life, sprocket adapter is A+. $25 bucks more will get you a spring tensioner with the gear wheel (no roller type), that bolts up on the output cover. Way better than stock. I prefer BMX chain it fits inside housing where yours broke. That MC chain is too big. Make sure to get, not good, but excellent BMX chain. About that head, take 400 grit. Tape it to a large piece of glass or something perfectly flat. Apply light even pressure and sand off maybe, MAYBE, half of that lip on the head. Should bump compression 1 to 1.5 points. You'll see significant improvement. GL
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
"With no muffler It'll sound like a Harley Davidson"
lol, this guys neighbors hate him
@Mario Salinas Also the pull start is a lot more convenient the momentum start of the 2 stoke engines. Its annoying to petal, start, stop, fiddle with choke, petal and start. Most annoy part of owning 2 stroke.
I no my nabers hat me
Like they say loud pipes saves lives!!! Laugh out loud 😂
Me also think neigbors hat the sond
I know my neighbors hate me for my exhaust it’s 110dBs and I love it
Dude I'm 17 and this is the first time I've learned something from someone younger than me regarding mechanical stuff. Great vid and channel dude keep at it!
Yeah I learned the intake manifold is before the carburetor where the air comes in hahaha
Sweet pfp bro, you play DCS?
@@scottd8555 RIGHT! Next week I will haven been a certified master technician and I just CAN NOT believe I’ve been mistaking the intake manifold for the air filter! 🤷🏻♂️
Im 32 and this kid taught me a thing or 2
WOW! a video about gas bikes that isnt garbage
great work!
it was junk
Go to agree with Pop-Tart because that wasn't an intake manifold. That was an air cleaner and That piston was not ported cuz it would been have cutouts in the skirt. Yeah, that's for sounding like a Harley. No way a single-cylinder can sound like a twin?
@@brenttate9299 shut up nerd
@@jamesocallaghan4807 Care to back that up with any facts other than the word nerd.
@@brenttate9299 dont forget this a single chamber 2 stroke bicycle motor. Not a 4 stroke v twin motorcycle engine
Step on: 2jz swap it
Ryan9124 yes boys with 70mm precision turbo
yes and make sure its a gte
Kswap
Or ls swap
@@superdank1621 gay
its pretty sad when a kid can make a better motorized bike video than the majority of the adults out there
Pretty sad that you don't have a clue ho was wrong all of this was...
Another tip is having the top end installed
Love it! LOL
Lol
@@maxsmotorsports8094 another tip, also expensive, probably more than the piston is a balanced or higher grade crank, that alone will make the bike FLY. Substantial mid range torque, moderate high end.
Or you could skip breakfast
Has anybody ever adjusted the choke with a warm two-stroke engine at full throttle and gotten it to get a huge boost? I ran into someone else with a motorized bike years ago and they told me about this. It took a while for me to figure out exactly how to do it because it tends to want to bog the engine out, but when you get the right balance it really takes it to another level. I'm scared to run one like this too long because it goes so much faster and sounds like the RPMs are so much higher. Anyone else got any stories of doing this, or is this just a good way to destroy your engine quickly?
Only 250 subscribers?? Your videos are very well put together and informative. Keep it up little man
Over 900 now
Sounds pretty mature for his age
Hey Max. Cool vid! You really handle yourself on camera! Super confident! Try slowing down a little, don't rush. And try to make sure your research is all spot on. Everything was right (cept maybe the... Uh... Air cleaner?) But I think you know your shit. Enjoyed it. Turned on notifications, see what you got next! Relax. Have fun. You'll make money at this!
@@repliedreplied5552 I would be proud to have a son like him....a real inspiration.
@@jimlahey4219 2.38k now man
I'm an old gearhead. This is exactly how I started out. Now I'm older, I have graduated to custom bobber, choppers, rat rods, leadsleds and muscle cars. Never sold anything. Life is good. Best of luck to ya kid.
Warning, when u take off the cap it restricts the top end, it helps with the bottom end so you lose speed. Because the engine needs that back pressure. (As said in the vid)
i found that i hit the limiter faster when i took the tip off tbh
@@calumwilson1120that's bcuz like the video this guy has no clue how an engine work. No engine ever needs back pressure.
@@mikecyanide7492 2 strokes need a bit of back pressure, i noticed it consistently hit top speed without bogs with the tip on
3:04 that is not an itake manifold thats the airfilter. The intake manifold is whats on the back of the carb which you actually have a modified CNC machined one.
Smart for a kid whom looks as if they are about 12
Fujiwara Fan boi 9
Age doesn't determine knowledge
Never judge a book by its cover.
It's pretty cool. I started with motor bikes about a year ago and I think I've learned just as much from kids as I have adults
that's funny
A 2 cycle engine does NOT need "back pressure!"
What it needs is a tuned exhaust. We call these
an "expansion chamber." The positive and negative
pulsations, at the right time, will VASTLY increase
the power output. A negative pressure wave, with
the exhaust port open, and a special intake port,
will allow the pipe to suck intake mixture, out the
exhaust port. After the intake port closes, a positive
shock wave, will actually force that unburnt charge,
back IN to the combustion chamber.
I've been riding 2 stroke motorcycles for, about 40
years now. A GOOD expansion chamber is simply
AMAZING! My old Yamaha RD-400, with stock pipes,
put out about 40 HP. With expansion chambers, 65
horses.
I currently run a Sickbike.com expansion chamber.
A unique feature of this pipe, is the joints are flexible,
and won't crack off, like your stock pipe did.
steve
SBP! The BEST at what they do! Jack shaft and expansion chamber.
I can remember back being so young and little telling my granddaddy that I wish there were a way that I could put a motor on my bike
I was just telling my wife that exact same thing! Laugh!! 😎✌
I never knew motorized bike kits existed until recently. I`m starting to build my very first one and I will definitely tune into your channel for tips as I go. Just so you know, I have taken your advice and ordered a 36 tooth sprocket, thanks for the tip...keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.
Right on kid. You sound like a professional. You should be a salesman.
Thanks so much man. Positive comments like this mean a lot.
Porting taking out the excess material/ smoothing the cylinder is actually pretty easy.
2 tools that are necessary are a torque wrench and metal file “Optional Dremel”
Use your torque wrench to take off cylinder head then slide off the cylinder.
Use you tool to remove the excess material then polish the surface.
“Important make sure all metal shavings are removed before you put it back together”
Great video, I was in my late 20’s before I knew half as much about engines as you’ve explained concisely in this video. I just got an 80 cc kit to go on a kabuki bike. New tires, new seat, new paint job and obviously new motor, and I saved about $1500 from the electrics I was eyeballing, still way better for the air than driving my van everywhere.
Why im even watching this? Im poor i don't have a bike!
Awesome content
LE FURET GAM3R i just randomly found a kit on wish for $1 and imma try and make it rip
I found a motor for $100 on eBay and a bike at a swap meet for $12 so it’s not expensive
LE FURET GAM3R its not that expensive you know there actually kinda cheap
yourFr13nds lol if your for real that thing is gonna be shit wish is trash
Maybe I’ll do a giveaway at some point👌
Why is this channel so small? It is actually well made
thanks so much for commenting! I'm growing little by little and it's great. I definitely have space to get better, but it's all a learning experience
only a few months old.
@@maxsmotorsports8094 keep it my guy, you've got a future in this. just keep covering things you are passionate about.
It'll get there!
Pro tip = muffler, intake and sprocket are easy upgrades. The smaller sprocket increases top speed, but it need more torque to spin. Adding a better exhaust system and intake are easy upgrades that increase both HP and torque. So, more torque means u can add a bigger sprocket. Which equals just as good acceleration but with better top speed
Hope I helped one of y’all out!
actually more torque is for a smaller sprocket
What do you mean by the intake sorry I don't know
Hello Max; My name is Francis Klambauer; I am a 59 yr old retired teacher ( Defencive Driving instructor)- I just bought my first gas powered mountian bike and your tutorial was GREAT! You should consider a future in mechanic's , teaching or instructing something - Your a natural!! Best of Luck my friend!
Thank you! I am leaning towards doing something with mechanics. Thank you for the positive comment! It’s always great to hear! I hope you enjoy your bike!
The Black Thing is not an intake manifold, it is an air filter that is providing cleaner air to the intake manifold, young teacher.
Yeah the manifold is on the other side. Not even sure if you can call it a manifold on a single cylinder? A Unifold? Many is more than one.
@@1pcfred yes, it should be called inlet pipe.
@@dehoedisc7247 sounds legit
I agree with switching out the exhaust to make it go faster however where can you buy another exhaust that is designed for a motorized bicycle?
One BIG reliability mod that'll make many things go more smoothly: ditch the rag joint. Kits come with a couple pieces of old tire to clamp the sprocket to your spokes, which will fail and likely keep the sprocket from being concentric with the wheel. Instead, opt for a cnc adapter that clamps directly to the hub of the wheel, or maybe a disk brake rotor adapter.
I just wanna say u are about my age and you are doing great at RUclips you deserve way more subs keep up the great work man this video was really helpfull
Keep it up dude. Great content✅
Thanks so much!
No two stroke will ever sound like a Harley Davidson Motorcycle!!! I do support you though👍🏁You're getten there kid keep up the good work, seem like a good kid, stay that way youll go father in life.👌🆒👊💪🙏☝
mark kasper I agree with you you can make it as loud as a Harley by straight piping it
rice burner
2-stroke sound like Harleys just don't have the loud boom kickback that Harleys do
George I would like to kindly disagree because it’s impossible to make a 2 stroke that sounds like a Harley it doesn’t have and never will have that low rumble and rolling piston and steps a 4 stroke does and a Harley does a 2 stroke has a high pitched sound more like pap pap pap
@@quintin2040 come over to my house then and I also did just say but it sounds like a Harley-Davidson it doesn't have the low Rumble dick head
A ported and polished piston for a lot more HP? Yah that’s it! 😅
I am old very poor on fixed income working on a chain shifter motor side, that you can bump-start as well (no videos yet but there are pictures on my YT community page) but it keeps on changing, its a work in progress
The intake manifold is between the carb and the cylinder...the piece on the backside of the carb is the air cleaner and using a velocity stack is one way to increase flow. Good job with the video :).
He seams like a nice kid, and he is smart he is teaching people straight up and easy . keep it going brother
I saved myself a lot of speed and power issues by buying everything on my Bikeberry bike. From Bikeberry. A 48cc BBR Tuning motor with 48 t sprocket. 18 t pedal sprocket. And Speedometer. It was toping out at 42mph. I added their vapor reclaim bottle to the intake. And exhaust expansion muffler. Top end went to 55mph. On their Switz Cruise bike. Drawback is it's a heavy duty bike. Pro is it's strong.
Contrary to belief these motor kits are designed to be ran at 20mph. Yes they will reach 35mph full throttle right out of the box but running them full throttle will destoy them as well as the bicycle . If you read the book that comes with the kit they have a 5000rpm redline with the stock 44 tooth sprocket the kits come with that is 22.5 mph . So if you want to go fast buy a motorcycle not a bicycle . Pluss like all motors there is a break in period 10 mph for the first 100 miles then do not ever exceed 20mph. I build these and sell them every day and 90% of the people i sell them to take off from my shop screaming down the street and the next day they call me screaming and yelling at me how i ripped them off .no i did not rip them off they ripped themselves off by not following instructions instead of reading the book they throw it away . The biggest complaint i get is how come it won't keep up with my friends Hybusa ? Realy do you think a $400 b8cycle is going to keep up with a $40'000 racing motorcycle? For the most part people are stupid and always trying to get something for nothing.sorry these are put put bikes not race bikes .
Yeah. If you want to keep them in good shape then driving slow is better, but for most people including me I would rather drive faster and have to replace more parts. My neighbor used to have bikes that would probably go 40-50mph and they didn’t break much at all because most all of the parts were high quality and built by a mechanic. Your right though, with the parts that come out of the box it’s most likely best to drive them easy to make them last, otherwise they are probably going to break and wear out.
#6) put a playing card in the spokes, that way it'll make an engine sound when you ride, making you go faster.
maybe ya didn't notice Zack, but he already has a engine on his bike, lol, ya should've told him to carry a few playing-cards in his pocket for when he breaks-down and has too peddle, lol
So what I did with my stock exhaust is: 1) I took the baffle off and cut the skinny pipe, 2) I put the baffle tip back on to keep back pressure, 3) I drilled a few 1/4" holes near the bottom around the outside. Drilling the holes was a bit of a risk, but it made a 2-3mph difference in my limited testing. This was it keeps some back pressure, doesn't sound too loud, and gives you more power.
At the moment I have no exhaust because my bolts sheered off on mine
and I get oil on everything which then causes dirt to collect. Honestly the only issue I have is that it doesn’t want to idle well with no muffler. And it either will die or becomes a run away engine.. sometimes I can adjust the idler but depending on the engine temperature it idles differently
Keep it at a low idle the same low idel as if your engine was running hot also try some more oil in your gas or adjust the needle inside the carb
bruh an exhaust is not gonna add horsepower. the engine makes like 2.5 horses anyways. not hating just saying. and don’t polish your intake port because it being rough helps with fuel atomization. great video otherwise tho
Young man you are a wealth of practical knowledge. Congratulations!
You forgot something very important….the fuel you use. When I was 16 in 1977 I was able to get a Honda 49cc engine to go 50mph by doing everything you said plus using trick fuel 110 octane. When you use racing fuel you’ll need to ad more oil to cool the engine.
I think a huge thing with these bikes os tuning it properly. Mine is likely far from perfect but I have been playing around with the carburetor for months now and learned a load. My bike used to run like absolutle shit. Carburetor leaked air causing it to run lean and often I would pull in the clutch while still going fast and the engine would not rev down. It should drop back to idle very quickly. Mine didn't solved that by tightening the carb on the bike very well and making a makeshift gasket with eletrical tape (I know but it works). I partially tear down my engine often and look at the internals. The cylinder has so much information based on how your engine is running. I used to do plug chops to learn about my A/F but honestly it's only a starting point. From there it's just going by sound. Rather rich than lean. My bike used to 4 stroke like crazy especially with the baffle off but a smaller main jet solved that. I have a lot of power and a top speed of 39 mph. I am running a large 44 tooth sprocket and leave my friend with my PW50 (converted to 80cc and soon hooking up nitrous) in the dust. It also shoots flames, has a truck horn, and used to have functioning diy brake lights and blinkers but the arduino malfunctions because of the electromagnetic interference. I want to try a Farraday cage but it's not working yet. One of my absolute favorite projects that keeps me happy. The looks people give my friend and I get from people that we drive by are priceless.
2 more tips.
1. Get rid of that junk stock chain tensioner and get a spring loaded one. Preferably one that mounts to the motor itself.
2. Get either mag wheels or a hub mounted sprocket adaptor. You are going to destroy those spokes
Receipe for 50+mph kit
-get a compression chamber exhaust
-put oil in cylinder head before first start
-get a bigger carburetor
-remove any excess metal shavings in cylinder head
-use race gas
-buy branded kits like Zeda ect
-use a small sproket
-do a proper engine break
-upgrade spark plug
Shitaki mushrooms dude, keep working hard at this. You are an absolute natural at RUclips and Motor bikes. So so smart kid.
I really like how this young man has this much knowledge about engines and exhaust. This is very impressive, and it makes me very hopeful for the future. We need more hard working young men like you in this country! Good job, sir. Thanks for working hard, and teaching others your knowledge!
EDIT I might want to buy an expansion chamber... How much does that help for torque?
finally an actual good video about motorized bikes.
btw what i did with my exhuast is my muffler fell off one day riding and i made it back up to the shed and got a mountain bike seat post and just stuck it in the end of the bend pipe and used blue locktite and 6 pop rivets and it gives me great power and sounds mint. the reason its given me power is because the end where bike seat clamp goes on in smaller than the main bit of the post so its created back pressure for me. just an random idea i had when i did it and if your exhuast snaps in half like mine, maybe give it a shot
Awesome! Mine also broke too. Maybe I’ll try the bike trick someday
@@maxsmotorsports8094 yeah its just really loud and plenty of backfire, and yes im quite a bit of a bush mechanic so you know i gotta work with what ive got!
Makes it better!
@@maxsmotorsports8094 true! i think mines done a headgasket actually so its lost power but it'll be fine lmao
What an awesome hack! World's tiniest expansion chamber. Did ya get top speed? Or bottom end power?
Don't feel bad, I'm 35 and I chose a Kent bike on purpose lol. I liked how the Nazz looked, in retrospect I prolly should have gone a step up, had to return the first one cause the forks were bent, the second bike is marginal but workable. It's gonna have to have the wheels trued up and the brakes adjusted, but it's got disc brakes which I'm actually mildly impressed by. The shifters not so much, but I gotta take the front sprocket off anyway, prolly gonna grab a Raleigh too. It's increasingly hard to find affordable steel frame bikes these days
Wow, you sound like you are into the motorized bike business! that's awesome..I still need to get mine fixed, but have another kit that I just bought so that should be awesome..I'm not sure what bike I'm going for yet, but probably something cheap
I owned one at a point a big problem with going to high rpm is that the exhaust can rattle loosening the screws and make the exhaust fall off it’s happened to me multiple times……
Another tip which can make em go over 45mph is to change the gearing you loose torque but get an insane top end I’m 17 and now work on cars and motorcycles sometimes doing full engine rebuilds it’s a great hobby keep up the good work man👍
Your intake manifold is after the carb bolted to the block. Keep wrenching kid. You got it. Also you port the head intake/exhaust. To make them bigger. Lol good to see kids getting after it.
This vid is old but do you know where I can find a bike tire for my bike??
Not sure. Try Amazon or anywhere online
That thing on the carburetor is an air breather not intake. The intake is what bolt to the head and the carburetor hooks onto it. Yes changing the air breather does help the carburetor perform way better. Also using a window piston with a reed valve is a great way to gain significant power and have your bike perform much better.
A few things is the pipes don't make the bike or motor vibrate any more then it did before. The black thing is called an air filter and you may want to look into reeds.
Kid.. you are doing a very good job.. you'll be a good teacher. You explain things very clear and simple.. and I'm 35. I subd
I got to give it to you, this has got to be the best 5 tips video I have ever seen in my life. You explain everything so well and its very easy to understand. Respect for you.
Good video.
At 6:11 in the presentation there is a bad link in thee chain that the valve stem is pointing to. Always inspect the chain.
Jim
Pretty knowledgable little guy.
Thanks a lot kiddo. Keep up the good work.
Just wanna point out, you can get a nitrous oxide kit for this for about 150 buck. I'd recommend getting cool whip canisters instead of branded racing NOS because it's a hell of a lot cheaper and it's the same thing. It basicaly used little 12 oz canisters and you press a button to puncture the canister and it blows into the air intake.
the bike brakes and the chain gets hard without putting or using the brake, how do you fix it?? Is it possible that the motor is tied or the cloucth is stuck??
what would be a good compromise when it comes to a sprocket?
My mate drilled holes in his intake to allow more air, can this replace just buying a better one?
Probably should have suggested something like a small engine turbo or a small engine nitrous kit, you can get them for $80 for the turbo kit and all you really have to do is add one end into your exhaust, and link the other valve back to the air intake on your carb. Then a small tank for oil and a hose to cool it off and you’re ready to kick out some more ponies.
Great video! Your natural bro, you provide value without trying to say a bunch of b.s and come off fake. Kudos! 👌🙏
A jack shaft is great too, just make sure you have a good chain guard.
You've covered most things I would do..(other than replacing the exhaust and rear sprocket.. I'm too cheap lol)
Tip 1) Have you ever looked into piston skirt cuts?..
Remove the intake manifold.. With the motor at TDC(top dead center)
Take a sharpie and trace your intake port onto the remaining portion of the piston skirt that is still visible.
Cut this off with your dremel.. it allows for maximum intake through the port, as opposed to a port that's only open 2/3 of the way.. (helps on top end)..remove a little from the exhaust side to help balance.
Cons: it does throw your piston out of balance some.. it's not very noticeable, but it does increase wear and tear.
Tip2) pull your head cap off and color in the rim that contacts/mates to the cylinder with sharpie.. Find a hard flat surface. Get some 180-330 grit sand paper.
Start with 180grit, and work your head cap in smooth circles on the sand paper, making sure to keep it flat. Work until you've removed the sharpie, keeping notice of uneven removal..recolor and repeat through your grits until you've cut that contact rim down by half..(about 0.03-0.05 of an inch!) This will help boost compression, however the same results can be achieved by removing the head gasket.. (don't though)
Tip3) dremmel out the crankcase to piston ports on the cylinder..(the ones not connected to the exhaust and intake ports) making these ports bigger gives better flow, improving top end.
Tip4) I guess you covered this under porting, but make sure your port transitions are smooth, and matched in shape to the next.. (intake port cut to size of intake manifold.. etc)
Make sure everything is port matched.
600+ miles on my 49/66cc, self ported(628miles according to my wal mart speedometer) Max speed was 36mph on 41t and 27inch tires. Cruises 25-30mph all day~
I got mine up to 45 miles an hour, but you have to worry about the tires. Do you have high-speed tires on your bike?
This is a great video. Lots of knowledge. And you have an awesome way of explaining things. Really good production too.
Way ahead of your time kid. You're definitely doing what you're meant to.
Great video & advice... Keep up the good work dude 4 yrs later
Hey guys, My carburetor is leaking gas from the cover area which i think is called a float. Its the NT carburetor with the red cover. I checked my donut it has no holes and it wasn't stuck. Any advice?
Hi please help if you can
Stock "CHINA DOLL" 🎎 out the box
Can't get 🚲 to "idle" tried everything
adjusted screw 🪛 on carb
Clone bofeng nt carb,
checked for air leaks lil black rubber washer in carb
tightened down securely.
Won't sit running,
engine will slowly die when off throttle, slowing down / breaking or coming to a 🛑.
Have to keep hitting the ⛽ a lil to keep running.
What type of bike is best to put an engine on?
Drill a 1/8 " hole in the muffler cap . No ' real ' effect on noise , more mid range power . Cap with a Pop Rivet if you don't like it .
Id link the engine directly with the main drive on a 10speed, so you can shift
It's called a jackshaft and you still run all that power through a bicycle chain in the end. These motors don't have enough torque to efficiently use gears.Be Happy with going 40 miles an hour with a single gear 👍
It would be a good idea if you like breaking the chain and freewheel a lot.
No pedals?Think about the mechanical layout of this senario... I have built these..
then you get live pedals which is EXTREMELY dangerous. i.e. the pedals are always pedaling, driven by the engine. these can WRECK your legs and feet. basically a blender. they make "shifter" kits that do exactly what you'd want... but they incorporate an extra freewheel into the crankset so they aren't pedaling at all times.
@@JamesPiccone the less torque an engine produces the MORE benefit you get from a transmission. your statement is a direct contradiction of fact.
also if you buy the kit from Alibaba or another Chinese site, you can get them for 56 us dollars. (I checked) That's the whole kit, btw. But it's the bog-standard with the stupid rag joint. (spend like another 80 bucks and put on a hub adapter. SO MUCH BETTER!) no more broken spokes!
What about drilling holes in the muffler instead of removing ?
Could I just use my stock Derailer and sprocket so I can change gears?
On the porting and polishing you only want to polishing the exhaust ports the intake wants to be ruff
Max I would point out something else you didn’t mention I suggest to do to upgrade your motorized bicycle. You should remove and toss that original sprocket mount that the motor kits come with that mounts by bolts on with 2 rubber gaskets sandwiching your sprocket onto your spokes and get a sprocket adaptor where you sprocket will be secured to your hub and not risk damaging you spokes
Do I get less distance on one tank when I take the cap off my exhaust pipe
The black thing on the front of the carb. Is the air filter housing, not the intake manifold. The intake manifold is between the carb. and the engine.
The chain keeps breaking off mine. Any tips? Went thru three master links in two days.
nice handy video, but what you called the "intake manifold" is actually the air filter the intake manifold is the silver part that the carby attaches to and the intake manifold connects to the head.
Yeah. A few people have commented about that. Thanks for commenting!
hiya i have the same engine on a push bike can you show me how the coil is wired up .ie i have a blue a white and a black wire coming out off the engine and a green and black wire on the coil .if you could be so kind to show me how yours is wired up,as i say i have the same engine .Thanks .
The intake side of the cylinder is supposed to be rough as it helps the fuel/oil mixture vaporise into the cylinder which makes the engine run smoother and the exhaust side is suppose to be polished to help the gasses escape
2 stroke engines do need back pressure to operate properly. However, if you have a 4 stroke setup, back pressure in your exhaust will just reduce flow and wont help your engine push exhaust gasses out on the exhaust stroke. Good video, just wanted to make that distinction.
I have done one in the past, and sold it, now building another for myself...do you think a reverse jug is a good idea?
I’m not sure. You could try it just to see what’s up. What would you be looking for in the end? What results?
Try taking the baffles out of the exhaust and replacing them with a stainless steel pot scrubber then put the cap back on or if you want a little tuning possibilities use the bottom end of a spray paint can so you can experiment with the sizing of the hole for back pressure
Good job kid keep it up!! I think your vid was as good as any other gasbike vid I've seen.
Very knowledgeable especially for his age. Keep it up man!
So if I'm upgrading the cylinder and piston, can I just get a bigger one without changing the crank case or something else?
I don’t think so. By my knowledge you have stuck with the same size because the crank is made for that size engine. There is a little sheave on the cylinder and it slides down into the crank case. If you were to get a bigger piston and cylinder I don’t think the sheave would fit into the crank case.
@@maxsmotorsports8094 thanks bud...
What oil ratio do you use? I use Maxima formula K2 and e free 91 octane gas mixed @32:1
Very well presented I myself have built a few but these tips to go faster are great helpings
6:15 looks like the pins in your chain are comming out. Right neer the valve stem.
I’ve searched damn near every single website that sells these kits and accessories and I can’t find any cylinders called polished and ported… I was only able to find cylinders that have been polished…
What website do I have to go to again and couldn’t rly here in the video
All opening the muffler does is make it loud and move the powerband down to low end.
It will not increase power.
Also, I agree with most in this comment section. You have great vids little dude. Please give us some more tips! I just got into small engines/motorized bikes and it’s tough to get good info on them, but your stuff is great!
Thanks man! I’ll be making more soon!
So cool man I think I am going to get one of these kits
Awesome! Order it through my affiliate link in the description. Its from Bike Berry and it should be a great company to deal with. Let me know if you get one!
Hey do you know how to find the right engine stud if you have any information would be good
I PUT THE 2STROKE FAT PIPE OFF EBAY AND ALSO REFABRICATED A PROCIRCUT KX100 PIPE TO FIT and ill tell you it now feels GREAT EXCACTLY WHAT I WANTED FEELS JUST LIKE A GOOD 2STROKE WOULD WITH POWERBANDS DEFFANITLY THE BEST UPGRADE I WOULD GUESS IT ADDED ABOUT 5MPH BUT ITS THE ONLY THING YOU WILL ACTAULY FEEL AS YOU SLOWLY UPGRADE EVERYTHING ELSE HELPS OVERALL .....PS GREAT VIDEO KID YOUR REALY GOOD
I have built seven of these bikes so far. I have bought high performance heads. High performance exhaust. High performance carburetors. High performance coils. And my stock $90 kits have outrun all of them. It's just a selling point I'm a retired mechanic. I understand the way engines work. These modifications should work. But usually they do not. It depends on compression ratio. You need to change the piston go higher compression ratio
@@FoxSock if you could take material from the cylinder head. Without the Piston hitting the cylinder head. You might raise the compression. Cuz your decreasing the size of the combustion chamber in the cylinder head
@@FoxSock if you actually rejet the carbs yourself. It might give it more power. If you really want to go faster put a 36 tooth gear on it. But you'll lose your low in torque when it comes to pulling Hills. But it will give you a lot more top-end
@@FoxSock well I'm 60 years old 240 lb. I need low end torque to pull the Hills. Mine will still run 28 miles an hour. Witha a 44 tooth gear. And that's too fast for me..with a 36 tooth gear you may be pushing 40 mph. I would highly recommend you put a machine clamp-on sprocket on the back at those speeds you do not want to chain the fall off. It could be catastrophic
@@FoxSock bless your heart. Can you imagine that happening at 40 miles an hour. You might have to eat some asphalt. You can buy the machine sprockets for about $60. It's well worth it because the chain runs so true your chain tensioner doesn't have any flop in it. I've had themcome off on my friends while we were riding to the lake and back. And they get wrapped up and lock up the back tire. And that's not a good day.. that's why I switched to the clamp-on CNC machine sprockets
@Nugget_of_life, sprocket adapter is A+. $25 bucks more will get you a spring tensioner with the gear wheel (no roller type), that bolts up on the output cover. Way better than stock. I prefer BMX chain it fits inside housing where yours broke. That MC chain is too big. Make sure to get, not good, but excellent BMX chain.
About that head, take 400 grit. Tape it to a large piece of glass or something perfectly flat. Apply light even pressure and sand off maybe, MAYBE, half of that lip on the head. Should bump compression 1 to 1.5 points. You'll see significant improvement. GL