FIRST UPGRADES: I highly recommend staying away from performance mods UNTIL you have properly and thoroughly gone through the break-in process on your engine and use correct lubrication, but the mods in this category are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED doing BEFORE the break-in process. These are recommended in order to keep your engine running well and increase reliability. 1st: The first being a short CNC intake - www.amazon.com/Mingdun-32mm-40mm-Manifold-Connector-Motorized/dp/B08J7Z71QT/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2HG0FMHI61SY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.wgaWemGG1xZaETyDsDqQY84nX_S4EyZUcRlfQl6nxsYkrxTEjZqthGR9eUwV5oZoOjETmwl-kxQbEMVCGJPctqddy-SqO9iLIm3yCtEVk4pyNGTJGJRjezMSX_d73187KGXQ4XwUEh5pBoxLkknZwwz6zY4v9ug1MaYsQUJidku0PF7TVnYoTxePwSXrUNoFSLR4yd4NXuLy0cXEB_NHEJwtc_nV8vI0lR371sRgDO2ZhM89g_lEhPpwUzjTsMDBm8eV_ibZDt2H5xWWnEFguTOHuHiV3roXzMVPcp2wIeo.tUvwe_wPuG66lMDVEfGYeto-N-roShUk76haf9SWuuA&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized%2Bbike%2Bcnc%2Bintake&qid=1715354123&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized%2Bbike%2Bcnc%2Bintak%2Cautomotive%2C158&sr=1-1&th=1 2nd: Upgrading the spark plug is also a MUST! - www.amazon.com/NGK-BR7HS-Standard-Spark-Plug/dp/B000GZDI6W/ref=sr_1_2?crid=X3L8BJSW51TM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4gv2n1Pm65tXQGzCXIivxMmJ3_3vWhSsfbifXuq8B9UgHYQyLR6dVSwjzFbbGibRZM2CLFYNYt6JAMQqDsRfAuKU0QCSpIlwcc1oWO9jGUJyIRbKFvdJ6Nu9oqgawq2cgP8MKS93dX0iaj0z8y6F0ZD5ToLDTjiswMhAaWb1vD4OM7-vaTW7H0QTMJdLRe_Xz8kOQsVmcUUZsciKBOFkvl6muBQQ_sJJ2F9J64fbrfp8uXUBBWxRHEYqtUQDJ2FD7D8U0erBs7xc5wj-IEuhJSiEfLzYr9hqeK5YdBdkCic.1gfcHFlly-FusI9Gttk7384PRwhcl1EIAHI5DBv22fA&dib_tag=se&keywords=NGK%2Bbr7hs&qid=1715354636&s=automotive&sprefix=ngk%2Bbr7hs%2Cautomotive%2C107&sr=1-2&th=1 3rd: The third upgrade is a sprocket hub adapter (www.amazon.com/sthus-Sprocket-Adapter-Stroke-Motorized/dp/B07GWHXMTJ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=18FPXCSBYN6B7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.sKEWIRtySrBmJdUvRrNCgm_Q5X-9XHwIYIqKtyFsGVdhCMhkSpr7uuV-gisM5vRqq9e1aeBY5PjWD7sc1Kk3ZQLh3kQDV5TBSsRX8z8SFYVmIWyS9oDw9dxAe0XmN4x54x1RyGjGcqrXdqCOpJl9qWVGdoWWnofL6q-RpyLo0j6wPyQZY3v1HwGDH1vmGWIoe90JSNyV4KQBo6_i83K2SQAA0mtk72sVmpBHbRKT8eq3oIOgnwlfE4VKArLVaSamh7JCWXybzyKRB7wmeJWCWT44ZQ92Vdg8RguZmA4POX0.XGIMqc_KF0kHE4NSR6DVb7TqTzS1EsZg5sN75NKDi64&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+hub+adapter&qid=1715354767&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized+bike+hub+adapter%2Cautomotive%2C107&sr=1-7) or an alternative method to mounting your sprocket - ruclips.net/video/3q76xcT_sQI/видео.html NOTICE: A hub adapter will only really work if your has a constant diameter (all the way along the width of the inside of the hub) of 1in or 1.5in. Concerning brakes: If you want to go overboard on brakes, check out the Smolik Performance pit bike brake setup - smolikperformance.com/collections/all-products/products/front-pit-bike-adapter PERFORMANCE MODS: After you have done the previous mods and have properly broken-in your engine, it’s time for the real performance mods. 4th: A balanced crank - smolikperformance.com/products/zl40mm-crank-balanced-and-trued?_pos=5&_sid=5ab570fe9&_ss=r 5th: A good exhaust - ruclips.net/video/ZBZV0xXFjlM/видео.html 6th: Porting and decking - ruclips.net/video/V4yWn7ZcZ7k/видео.html 7th: Premium gas or race fuel - (only after porting and decking) 8th: A Reed valve - (requires a windowed piston) G2 - www.amazon.com/Miaowa-Racing-Intake-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B098X444WC/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4%3Aamzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&crid=3I0KNCIXC9BU3&cv_ct_cx=motorized+bike+reed+valve&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GnjMeLOPZgNDkzvE_fZ2o2L7Oca2RWbIL6eu9SZczbweXBbxM8h7HS5ZybsZAX8X.v9O8Ew1z4K0FOLieE7SLbMJeshvGx9SoGsV-0jNOzfU&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+reed+valve&pd_rd_i=B098X444WC&pd_rd_r=71beeb66-52f1-4d72-8625-dfd25ecf1d72&pd_rd_w=ddj2I&pd_rd_wg=O1tjF&pf_rd_p=679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&pf_rd_r=ZE5DJ9BAE0NDZ7GVHG0V&qid=1715355019&s=automotive&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=motorized+bike+reed+valv%2Cautomotive%2C144&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1 DIO Reed - www.amazon.com/Valve-Set-Reed-Block-Gas-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B0B5DCB627/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3SKE06ICH797L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.JlvyOY7u827hdKv_qW_6Jc2P4tqz2e14IpNfGZVYC80ydCddplJspRsdFdPgsxJjTO2kCn2940oVSnbbi4B33z8kaSjLT-6kOV-M_VQzK01BSPtUI_hIJ6ZHZZDqBgZGfPG6Lh1TWwGgx-ZFggpnTBSEZxH4ibYXZqsZ1_EDGk1b89b2APOoZ3voLsOS31Q3Mu-csfLs273zAGVab6MuMzrRNM-6ApMPX-3_JIGQ7Pdcf402uiFJjoGBiRCqcUUUQ4hg8Un837rLL6H7jxhKFwwPvmbCw2ZdPagIyy5wDm4.AudSMW11wODC-dEXLneaaKOnR-uWz66XM5Bb0SX2ldk&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+dio+reed+valve&qid=1715381630&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized+bike+dio+reed+vavle%2Cautomotive%2C168&sr=1-5 OZ Reed - ttps://www.amazon.com/CDHPOWER-Reed-Valve-Kit-19mm/dp/B07DVTQCX7/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3NKNVHCGCBDES&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.W4XcrCMjS7l6f6FiWfkrA3oYXOkZG5GzfL9Q-92dg4wfsLYKD674jS8g8Bpt0qkOwWSvqZAQV8KPqFsryZmV3JWnm0hxJCTbKZXkBfD2pcQIAqBGjJFh06HPNDEPZGU6QPZ-_rZWGpKqXxbOxW-61-LvMCX9Vh9o2qmi7xvvNh9H2zO-K3a3MjrTblZdrw1wovwCuKZGHlth4MfA1Rhi48Z0wsRZiKAzHFk7oNQ_zEGTgx3I2rRilBA01_dhBvY1MhwKla-bb-WqTB6PWQfye-2dHdCNEZE-Xq3FWC9DH64.tFWC5LJ31F6CWEN30u22UlCb_jPDaXxHmwrKCvA-s4o&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+reed+valve&qid=1715381657&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized+bike+reed+valve%2Cautomotive%2C100&sr=1-5 9th: Carburetor: Mikuni VM18, dellorto, NIBBI PE19, Pz19, PZ20, and PWK21. 10th: CNC Cylinder head - Here is a great cylinder head guide - Smolik heads - smolikperformance.com/collections/cylinder-heads/products/smolik-cnc-head Other CDH Heads - www.ebay.com/itm/284504977774 Cheaer options - www.amazon.com/jtfrkope-Cylinder-Racing-Engine-Silver/dp/B0BNSMS53N/ref=sr_1_4?crid=28X7UCWCKCMGK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gT80iTe9xLn2bKYlvFS_lush_CPkXTFjFoNH357mF_mDfooIaRxtxaPzjHdUeOm3JaN50mt9meShVLRBUKBkiNypMoot6xxi3uNQAJKnAX1FUnAJ31L4cUQSQnzUODOR9f6Q09EtiRdJf0Mkr50HX4batmlO7Dp1UyPCuTIOsy7jjzjDIQMYu7aOMDF14oRm1wscqWJWdYDpL8rj2Qs3nVf6nEO1EDG6F2Jf49sk9LJzUfgppS0x01OOzVGZQoRWpOmEFrihRDEdyod6-hvKdyWAtAeTWlVkBh-SKEf3fSo.cSDzossxl9INzjJjHhr_WVC1rXXOwTKRmy9wimD2GIs&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+cnc+head&qid=1715381858&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized+bike+cnc+hea%2Cautomotive%2C183&sr=1-4 11th: Ignition system guide - ruclips.net/video/z30UREt5zzA/видео.html MBI Adjustable CDI - svm-bikes.company.site/products/MBI-Adjustable-CDIS-p624481639 Parmakit CDI - www.treatland.tv/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=parmakit-cdi-box-57001.29&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwi_exBhA8EiwA_kU1Mld2o1prkSjKmqKCnjqjWdbbdv0btT9Y59OoTsYljmIVIbP1c2YLkBoCUuMQAvD_BwE (contact Smolik Performance for help) 12th: Upgraded Cases - Smolik Minarelli Vertical - smolikperformance.com/collections/cnc-cases/products/preorder-cnc-minarelli-case Smolik YD100/Avenger 85/Phantom 85 - smolikperformance.com/collections/cnc-cases/products/cnc-avenger85-phantom85-case Smolik Horizontal (case reed) - smolikperformance.com/collections/cnc-cases/products/2023-cnc-minarelli-horizontal-case-1 RDM Minarelli Vertical - rdmanu.com/products/minarelli-vertical-case-flat-mounts-presale?_pos=2&_sid=2566f5d93&_ss=r RDM Piaggio - rdmanu.com/products/piaggio-engine-case?_pos=1&_sid=2566f5d93&_ss=r (you can also contact both of these sellers privately and they are usually pretty good with custom cases or tracking specific ones down. You can also contact other sellers such as Ken Hinson, Mitch Green, Don Butler, Alan Zhang, etc) 14th: Hybrids Minarellis - smolikperformance.com/collections/engines/products/70cc-minarelli-vertical-engine Case reed minarelli - smolikperformance.com/collections/engines/products/2023-cnc-minarelli-horizontal-tier-2-engine 15th: A Stroker Crank - rdmanu.com/products/rdm-crankshaft-2023-q3-4-presale?_pos=1&_psq=crankshaft&_ss=e&_v=1.0 CLUTCH: RDM HD clutch - rdmanu.com/products/stage-3-clutch-assembly-short-term-presale?_pos=8&_sid=b03948559&_ss=r SAF Clutch - dlh-performance.myshopify.com/products/saf-super-clutch-f?_pos=10&_sid=7fd8a577d&_ss=r
thank you for this this was really helpful no lie and thank you for noticing that that sprocket kit from the stock sucks! everyone the the Facebook group said that they are reliable HWO MUCH ARE THEY GETTING PAYED TO SAY THAT?! what i did was get a rim just for this and it worked great!! it was like $80 but really sturdy ima prob doing the carb mod ngl also you have anything for oil leakage from the exhaust?
@@cashTilton Thanks for watching! As for the oil leaking out the exhaust, that is typically due to either low-quality oil (the cheaper conventional or Minarelli premix oils dont burn very well), too rich of a premix ratio, a carburetor that is running too rich, or a mixture of all three. I typically suggest using more oil rather than too little, but when it comes to oil puking out the exhaust, that can definetely cause a few issues.
About the balanced crank, it´s not really just about being balanced, but reducing the crankcase compression on a 2 stroke engine takes a lot of power from the engine itself
Yes and no. No because The cranks that come in these engines are so unbalanced it’s amazing that they don’t break bearings on break in. Balance factor on any 2 stroke crank is extremely important, because there aren’t any counter weights like you would have on a 4 stroke. Yes you do want to have as little open space between the crank walls and the case walls, known as case volume, the smaller the amount of case volume you have, the better primary pressure you get through the transfers and into the combustion chamber. As with any 2 stroke, the actual performance gaining tuning aspects are far more complicated than with a 4 stroke engine, there’s a ton of science and theory you have to understand to actually make a good engine. I’ve been at it for 15 years, my last 50cc moped went 82mph.
hi the only thing i care abnout is going up hills which are every 3 blockseach hill is 2- 5 blocks long, im in a DT big city area so i need to constanly stop and cant get going fast what crank system do u recommend @@MrSagerific95
@@SGmotorsport9590 You can run a Jack shaft to a separate gear box. That’s all I know how to do while keeping the original engine in tact. The mopeds I play with use a CVT transmission and a drive clutch.
I came from the 2 stroke moped world before entering the motorized bike world. Over the last 15 years of tuning I’ve learned a lot about 2 strokes. The science behind getting REAL power out of a 2 stroke is so fascinating to me. Don’t let anybody tell you that 2 strokes are simple, the science and theory behind them is far more complex than any 4 stroke design. My last moped build was a 70cc liquid cooled that made 11hp and was good for 82mph. I’m just so addicted to the science of 2 strokes. Nice video brother! Also just an FYI it’s pronounced “DEO” as in Ronny James Dio. Same way Spanish speakers pronounce “god”
I completely agree. Not only is it a science, but an art. Granted, a 4-stroke is a bit more than slapping bolt on mods together, but it definitely takes A LOT more to build a nice 2-stroke. They are simple in terms of their overall design and when it comes to maintenance and repairs, but there is definitely more to it than bolt-on mods. Im addicted to them too. lol. Nothing better than getting crazy power out of a super tiny engine. I built and regularly ride my 212cc bike that is running on alcohol, advanced ignition, TM24 carb, etc, and my un-ported 50cc minarelli bike seems to have round about similar power.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 are you subscribed to 2 stroke stuffing yet? He’s awesome, I’ve watching his stuff for over 10 years, he’s truly an artist with 2 stroke tuning. And he did a couple videos with a motorized bike build that absolutely rips with a China cylinder.
Amen to that! I had an old vintage race bike that was a Yamaha rd400, that thing had some serious engineering that we put into it to make it right for competition. But oh my god when that thing would hit 9 Grand the power was absolutely insane!! It was the only motorcycle I've ever owned that would really in all gears!
Ive seen some 2-stroke turbo setups, but as you said, there are many issues that would make a turbo/supercharged setup not practical, not to mention all the other hurdles.
There have been two strokes that have been properly tuned with a turbo or even superchargers! If I'm not mistaken I think that some of the outboard motors there are two strokes have had superchargers on them... But granted it is very hard to get it to work properly and takes a s*** ton of engineering
@@faulker6751 The older 2-stroke diesel engines are similar in terms of the process of combustion, however, there are key differences that make them VERY different and not at all comparable to other 2-stroke engines you would find on dirtbikes or motorized bikes. Firstly, diesels such as the Detroit 8v92 have very low operating RPMs (around 2,100RPM), use a traditional exhaust system, and are fuel-injected. This makes a turbo MUCH more practical, more reliable, and functional compared to a turbo on a 14,000 RPM carbureted 2-stroke that requires a highly tuned and unrestricted expansion chamber exhaust. I would tell you to know what you're talking about before speaking, but that would be mean.
I'd like to see you ride the stock bike followed up with one you have decked out. Or with each mod added show an example riding the bike and maybe explane where you feel the most gains. Pros n cons. Awesome video on explanation. Best I've seen yet. I used to race moto so this is similar but way different at the same time. Pertaining to engine upgrades. Thanks bro
@@That_40yrOld_Dad Absolutely. I started a build just two weeks ago and was planning on documenting the build process and document all of the modifications. Doing speed, acceleration, and RPM comparisons with each mod. I almost finished the bike, but ended up breaking my ankle before I could even take it for my first ride. Lol. Thanks for watching. You support means a lot. I bet moto racing is so much fun.
@@codyzepda I broke my ankle, had terrible health issues, and now that I'm better physically, I'm so busy I don't have any time to finish the build, much less the money. Lol. I'm sorry.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 glad your doing better in the long run. hopefully the healing process wasnt too rough. hope to see more of this type of content in the future tho. really helped me with my first build.
@@codyzepda Thanks for the support! It wasnt too bad with all things considered, but I wish I be a bit less busy. lol. Im glad to hear that I helped and if there is any questions, feel free to ask.
My 2 cents for newbies.....The shorty intake is mainly to solve clearance issues. So don't expect any kind of performance increase & sadly when using it, you then have clearance issues between the carburetor bottom/bowl & the clutch cable case guide bolt 🔩. So you have to cut the end of the bolt threads off/shorten it. So you can scew it down into the case lower to make room for the carburetor... Which then causes the clutch cable to be at a more awkward,less than ideal angle & make the cable a little harder to pull putting stress on it.... If you have carb clearance issues with stock intake. I think you're better off rugging up a small hose extension. Also the shorty intake causes more fuel to spit back out the carburetor. Which is probably 1 of the reasons the stock intake is curved downwards.
You are absolutely right. The shorty gives a barely noticeably performance increase, but is mainly used since it prevents air leaks so well and allows more clearance within your frame. Though, I have honestly NEVER had clearance issues when using the shorty intake. You can kinda see in this video. ruclips.net/user/shortsAcVOvoHzCHM
Thank you for this. When you said Hybrid Engine, I really perked up, because I thought you were gonna say connect an electric motor to the engine, or use hub-motors to provide instant torque from dead stops and low speeds, while the engine & gearing are setup for midrange to a high redline. Almost like a homemade Koenigsegg Regara. But it can be annoying to now keep track of a battery, even if you use a motor-controller with Brake-Regeneration, so stopping, or the engine itself can recharge the battery.
This video shows a bit of insight on the whole setup. I basically welded BMX handlebars to fit with a cnc 2-stroke engine mount and the bar ends are threaded. I gutted the pedals and removed the bearings and then ran a bolt through them to thread into the handlebars to hold the pedals on. I fabricated a little tad on the bars so I could mount adjustable shifter rods (I used 11in, but your application might require a different size) which then mounted to the bottom bracket. I machined a little piece instead of the bottom bracket, but looking back, you probably won't see any issues if you bolted the shifter rod supports to the standard bottom bracket. ruclips.net/video/PMPJP4TcK5c/видео.htmlsi=sUvYNcS3bXGjVf1c
This is the ZDX65 exhaust sold by bicycle-engines.com. Its sounds pretty dang good and is one of the best pipes for these little engines: bicycle-engines.com
in my experience anything except stock as they are all just empty pipe, the stock diverts the gases back and then out again to help muffle sound so even removing the end is the same as buying a new exhaust, the main difference in exhaust is sound
Awesome info to put out there. I someday plan on having something setup. I still think the stuff has much to improve on. And hands down videos like this is helping these setups get there. Great Job!
@@luizroberto6915 you mean to increase the bore? And that is what I meant by a hybrid top end. Using another cylinder and piston from another engine (dirtbike, motorcycle, scooter, or commonly chainsaws). I am actually preparing to do an ms660 build in the foreseeable future.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 No, increase the stroke. You can drill a lower hole for connect rod, near the edge, in each side ( round part) cranck shaft and use a piston 54 or 56mm sthill ms660. Sorry for the bad text in english.
Really the only sellers of the CNC cases are Smolik Performance and RDM. Smolik has more variety and usually has better shipping and better customer support. Also try to get in touch with Ken Hinson, Allen Zhang, and Mitch Green on Facebook, cause they the guys behind alot of the performance parts and could possibly get you better products or possibly cheaper prices. If you are gonna get a CNC case, make sure you have a cylinder planned out, since pretty much all the CNC cases are tailored to a specific cylinder.
Thanks for watching. As far as nitrous, it all depends. If you are shooting the nitrous through the carburetor, I would use a dry system. However, if you rout the nitrous to spray directly into the intake, youll want a wet system (fuel mixed in with the nitrous). I dont really know how you would get a wet NOS system to work properly with a bicycle, but here's info on the dry system: ruclips.net/video/GmlnzT4aioA/видео.html
Would you reccomend any head that is no more than 5mm higher than stock head? I have a trek x caliber 8 frame on my bike and a balanced crank on the engine, planning to do much much much more mods to it
I dont really know the dimensions of most heads off the top of my head, but here is a cylinder head guide that should help: www.reddit.com/r/AMBMotorizedBikeGroup/comments/18yidcv/which_motorized_bike_cylinder_head_is_the_best/
Do not buy ANYTHING from BikeBerry!! If that be the exhaust, engine kit, or even an air filter, it is ALL worse quality than anything on Amazon and it is ALL INSANELY overpriced. Not only that, but they are NOTORIOUS for blatantly STEALING reputable sellers’ products and selling the EXACT product for more. DO NOT FALL FOR IT! Such as the engines, BikeBerry charges $180 ON SALE ($250 originally) for a kit that sells for $120 or even $90 everywhere else. (BikeBerry's www.bikeberry.com/products/66-80cc-bbr-tuning-angle-fire-bicycle-engine-kit-2-stroke Genuine Triple 40 www.ebay.com/itm/224318087531?itmmeta=01HV9MJWFPQGEMF0NB75WRCKT5&hash=item343a66616b:g:0Q4AAOSw6HVl3YBH&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8AkM3QwmSrCYGrCvxPuIrn1dHWEp2Ql9tT9TJ0iGeXkeCJtIIRssTrzC81zhKO%2BZXUPyI%2Fjkj27Q%2BWwJDhb5pYKNb%2BSMrWGgxW%2B65t%2BJSW9hXcIwOmWAw7q%2BP%2BDTs%2FJoJ74enRgTA2OBsixowYy3c%2FtQ4yu1dq4J49erpjdyWLppmUqEVqjrwpY65GgtqPpjBsWF5xdTmFiS9Y7IzAe%2FitP1h%2BWDzym%2FCm7Tzs6cdutmO4COH62wypv%2F9wwBRaZnbK6Gs%2BABCoJTk2ArlIsLwa0xcEc0R1gZm4RP6T8DHKLdRrZioP9ATnhE7YgVYlsN%2Bg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_rHy7TaYw) That would be tame, but the fact is, the kit BikeBerry sells is even WORSE than the $90 kit. See, the engine is called a Triple 40 and is the bar for reliability and performance. Many sellers sell this kit and BikeBerry’s base model kit is meant to copy off the Triple 40. However, they use lower quality components and a shorter 38mm stroke crank. This not only makes their version of the Triple 40 unreliable, but also perform terribly. And they charge double for their kit. Lol Not only that, but a LOT of the parts they sell are complete scams. Not to mention EVERYTHING is INSANELY overpriced. For instance, this cylinder head (www.bikeberry.com/products/bbr-tuning-billet-aluminium-high-compression-cylinder-head-66-80cc?_pos=2&_sid=ec6b1425f&_ss=r), which is literally worse than the stock heads (DO NOT GET) is sold on BikeBerry for $60 after shipping ON SALE. However, the original producer of this part sells it for only $25 (www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Cylinder-Gasket-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B0BVC2SGZX/ref=sr_1_30?crid=12AIWOGA88TXD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.oH0aqAU2OpQjF0EoEDqfKYJG8lTeog0k4RJIRYIo0nCfe2ScMsDIkeMTXh-BIo_niS2W5jXwGSShn5dmVYgs_c623hkPbiv3_nDHGkPY-qO8j1po49rTlXVZ7TPhS5JWNxUg3S4k0qx7T-NZ9Uz08A.mg9TvXJ3eJXdT6G0YhfCD29pNhS7YGpf8-ZV7r2Mtuo&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+cnc+cylinder+head&qid=1712942106&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized+bike+cnc+cylinder+head%2Cautomotive%2C78&sr=1-30) This exhaust is sold on Amazon for $25 (GARBAGE EXHAUST, DO NOT GET)(www.amazon.com/HGC-Silencer-Muffler-2-Stroke-Motorized/dp/B07QR62774/ref=pd_ci_mcx_di_int_sccai_cn_d_sccl_3_3/146-6477399-6469042?pd_rd_w=WUJaV&content-id=amzn1.sym.751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_p=751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_r=ZDQD7KSC1BFT4B5E95J9&pd_rd_wg=5LZyQ&pd_rd_r=19c1e43e-f08f-43af-aca5-974c940ff8cf&pd_rd_i=B07QR62774&psc=1). However, BikeBerry sells this exhaust for $50 after shipping ON SALE. These arent just the START and is actually just the first page of their "performance parts" webpage. There is this (www.bikeberry.com/products/digital-tachometer?_pos=1&_sid=3ed163d22&_ss=r) selling for $45 (sells for $13 EVERYWHERE else), and blatant ripoff's like these chopper mounts (www.bikeberry.com/products/bbr-tuning-cnc-occ-chopper-motor-mount?_pos=1&_sid=97c719c5f&_ss=r) compared to the original pedal chopper mounts. Also, bike berry sells their performance clutch plate, which is a DIRECT copy off the RDM clutch plate. Its funny, cause when you bought them from BikeBerry, they would LITERALLY send you one WITH RDM engraved into it. lol If have been in the motorized bike game for years and years like Keegan Hache, Build-Break-Fix, Smolik Performance, and I, it is easy to distinguish good parts from bad parts. You take anybody who knows what they are doing, and they will tell you that there is VERY FEW products on BikeBerry that are NOT COMPLETE SHAMS. And ALL the other parts that are NOT shams (literally 2) are SO INSANELY overpriced. Not to mention, many Bike Berry parts COMPLETELY disregard safety. Im talking about many of their cylinder heads ("pancake" and "race" heads"), which causes the engine to overheat VERY easily and causing DETRIMENTAL damage, ALL of their exhausts (besides their "deluxe pipe,") are TRASH and tend to either rip the exhaust threads out of the cylinder, perform NOTICEABLY worse than stock, and/or completely fall apart from the poor quality. Their ignition systems run like TRASH and actually negatively affect performance, the boost bottles literally only create air leaks, the "vibration engine mounts" do anything but make the engine have a LOT more play, causing it to twist when accelerating. I can go on for EVER! Not only that, but their customer service is FANTASTIC when it comes to making a purchase, but after a purchase, the service is TERRIBLE! Im talking no refunds, no remorse for their faulty products, and they will delete/take down any negative reviews. lol I could go on as to WHY you should NOT even consider using Bike Berry, but I think I can rest my case.
Hey, thanks man! I really appreciate your honesty and detail. I've been watching their videos to help with putting together a 2-stroke kit a friend gave me. Glad I found your videos. 😃
I've litterly watched 100s of 2stroke bike engine videos since I'm an old 2 stroke guy & love a well tuned 2 stroke..! I just started a vintage mini bike build, trying to decide on power plant..? I think I've decided on a couple 2 stroke bike engines😁 I'm thinking two 100cc stroker motors if possible? Cnc cases are a must & a balanced crank etc... Who do you recommend for quality parts..? Also since its a mini bike I will need to figure out a drive system... Any ideas..?
If you have Facebook, please DM me @Noah Alger (nickname is Beefy Man Supreme). That way, you can send pictures, which will make it a TON easier for me to help. As for quality parts, Smolik Performance and RDM are by far the best names in the game.
How do you address the cnc shorty intake problem of canting the carburetor downhill? Every bike I put a shorty on has the carb facing downhill causing float movement issues.
Huh. I live in the foothills of the Appalachian mountains and go up some SERIOUS hills and have never noticed an issue with the shorty intake. If you are having a problem, you'll have the same problem with the stock intake.
I want to be able to put a 100 cc bike motor kit into a small pit bike but I can’t get it to make enough power for it to be able to drive off road I want to be able to make a home made pit bike how do I get it to be able to do that
If you have not already gotten yourself the engine, I reccomend going with the Avenger 85, since it is pretty budget friendly and has a TON of power compared to any other stock engine. However, if you have already gotten the engine, you'll want to definitely upgrade to a good exhaust, do some port work, upgrade to a reed valve and a better/bigger carburetor, and follow the video until you feel that the engine performs to your liking. For DIY videos on how to install these parts, how to do port work, etc, there are PLENTY of videos out there, notably Keegan Hache. Though, depending on the pit bike (if its more like one of those Coleman minibikes), you could also go for something like a Predator 212 engine, which has a lot of torque, which is what you need for offroading.
Stability and reliability is wayyy more important than performance. So if there's ways to make the whole built more stable and secure, then i welcome it. When it comes to exhausts i would rather see some that make the whole thing more quiet because noise is really one of my biggest concerns. Especially when you do not intend to drive super fast anyway but just 20-25km/h and want to run the engine as a subtle support. And not pretending to ride a freaking Motorcycle. You just wanna keep the noise volume under control.
I'm just putting mine together now but I plan on upgrading it but the upgrades this guy is talking about cost a lot of money all that has to be machined automotive that just cost a little over $100 it's crazy I bought mine off Temu for 109 bucks it's the yd100 stock that supposedly supposed to go about 30 mph
The budget one uses the stock chinadoll clutch plate, which warps easily and has lots of give in it. The CNC plates gran better and dont slip as much. Is it worth the extra $80, I dont know.
what is a good 2 model carbs for a hilly town, i dont need speed i bike around downtown area so im constantly stopping for people, poles,, obstacles, potholes, construction etc and streetlights every 2 blocks so i just power to climb alot of hils
Torque is what that is called. To get more torque, you wont really find it in the carburetor, but more in the compression and porting area, and definitely the exhaust. While a carburetor could help with torque, it really only helps with torque when paired with the mods mentioned. If you dont want to overhaul your bike with performance mods but having trouble getting up hills, you'll want to look into gearing. When increasing the size of the rear sprocket, you get more torque with a slight speed sacrifice. Gearing is important with any bike.
Ive actually never had any problems with the doughnuts ive nvr broke spokes or had to re adjust or tighten them. I feel like ive been wuper lucky considering ive only had engines that makes 5+ hp
Yeah. I overexaggerated with that point in terms of it not working properly and breaking spokes. Truth is, you can get them pretty close to true and with proper maintanence, they wont shred spokes (as much). Though, in terms of difficulty, reliability, and adjustability, the hub adapters are more idiot proof and are more reliable than even a well setup pineapple joint sprocket. They also allow you to adjust the chain alignment EXTREMELY easily and make it easy to change the sprocket, etc. I added it to the reliability mods because its one less thing to mess with and makes life a good bit easier.
If they do it properly, youll see upwards of 16hp and excess of 13k rpm. This guy is simply experimenting with things and is hitting over 70mph. ruclips.net/video/p6gBIsOXtaU/видео.html This is only a 49cc engine, but the big numbers come from design differences and the top quality parts: ruclips.net/video/1ZJ8ZxRJrXI/видео.html
If you did all the other stuff without upgrading the block and cylinder, you could spend anywhere from $150 to $500. I have the links to all the parts I mentioned in my pinned comment so you can price things out.
I got an off-brand 80cc, just had to pre-order an offset intake manifold for her because the regular shorty one makes the carb hit the block and clutch aperture. Make sure you guys check it twice before ordering 😅
It depends on the carburetor and how you have the clutch adjusted. Alot of people say the shorter intakes and the reed valves make the carburetor hit the clutch arm, but when I adjust the clutch correctly, I have no issues.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 in this motors case, it hits right next to the mounting nut. The carb is an NT, I don't even think it's for this kit (seems awful big), but seems to do the job great
I dont really know of any stroker cranks other than the ones RDM (Ryan Daragh): rdmanu.com/products/rdm-crankshaft-2023-q3-4-presale As for the clutches, here is the HD clutch: rdmanu.com/products/clutch-upgrade-kit-stage-2 and the SAF clutch: www.motoredlife.com/products/s-a-f-clutch-v2?variant=39745264386161
Yeah.. can't expect to just turn a few screws and make the thing a rocket Even though it's a 2 stroke, small displacements are kind of a pain to squeeze power out from
I get the point you're making... and at the moment everything in the video seems expensive but im gonna take the tips he gave none the less( as he's been doing it a lot longer) also i guess i just prefer something i build with my own hands?
Yeah. DLH hasn't been stocking their products. I dont know why. With that being said, unless you buy one used, there isn't really any way to get a genuine SAF clutch. Though, its pretty easy to make one using an California Motorbikes or RDM clutch plate and some hardware and springs.
Hey guys, My carburetor is leaking gas from the cover area which i think is called a float. Its the NT carburetor with the red cover. I checked my donut it has no holes and it wasn't stuck. Any advice?
Make sure the carburetor is not at too much of an angle and is virtually horizontal. If this doesnt fix your issue, make sure your float needle is installed correctly and seals properly. If these dont solve your issue, try bending the little tab for the float's needle upwards a bit, so it shuts off the fuel flow sooner.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 My carburetor is on a good angle, how can I check if my needle is installed correctly and seals properly? Which tab it it the one that the donut pushes up against? If so how do I bend it up? Sorry I can usually fix any problem w my bike but when it comes to carburetors....It doesn't look good for me. Thanks! Let me know
Make sure you are using the proper lever (the crappy ones that come with these kits are flimsy and can shred cables). Also make sure your clutch is adjusted properly. If the bucking bar is at too much of an angle, it can put too much stress on the cable.
I posted a video of the idea behind boost bottles a little while ago. In that video (and additional information in the description), I explain why boost bottles don't work. Literally the only thing a boost bottle does is increase the intake volume. The ONLY way this would somewhat increase performance would be if the engine was previously running extremely rich. The boost bottle would lean out the fuel mixture, but as far as performance, it would negatively affect performance compared to a well tuned carburetor.
The main reason I reccomend doing performance mods after break-in for primarily one reason. I dont know about other builders, but I tend to go gung-ho when it comes to performance parts and make it IMPOSSIBLE to NOT push the engine to the limits, which is NOT what you want in a break-in process. lol There is usually a lot of carburetor tuning involved when you do mods before or during break-in. Its simpler to just run it stock when breaking-in, but it doesnt matter as long as you doing the proper break-in process.
NGK is BY FAR the best brand to use. If you are using a 2-stroke engine, I HIGHLY reccomend the NGK B7HS spark plug. Youll get both optimal performance and reliability out of that one on pretty much any 2-stroke motorized bike. Though, keep in mind that a lot of aftermarket cylinder heads have deeper/longer spark plug threads, so youll need to match up the thread "reach" with this chart: assets.sparkplugs.com/lc/NGK_Plug_Chart_1_web.jpg
hi i just got fixerupper bike, and someone else put on a relatively new autolite 216 spark plug, is that good enough for awhile? 50cc engine, heavy cheap mt bike, im going to be riding about 3 days a week averaging 10 miles, with small to medium frequent hills
Yes. That will do just fine. Next time you replace the spark plug, I highly reccomend using a genuine NGK plug, since they are usually MUCH higher quality than the other Autolite plugs. Though, the heat range and specs of the plug you mentioned will perform just fine on a bike.
I was originally planning to buy a kit from bikeberry, but now you are saying bike berry is the worst so I wont buy from them. But can you please send some links for cheap 66cc 3stroke engine kits that aren't complete ripoffs?
@@spongypancake Here is a cheap one that works OK (www.ebay.com/itm/185804288965?itmmeta=01J4X0PFAMM4HKMXNRWM1YWS2B&hash=item2b42cc73c5:g:NxsAAOSwUFRlnOJN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0MqkXqi9Az6wJ4goyADCa9XdNZ2BQU5r4ejHPlGE%2BElH%2BS%2B6I9DoNwwjiGvpyE1gPq9qV7Us0htPFiGPFNVqhqwCbxI4VMvh8P31KskBCz3PaKWRT1iP2ymLGDB2aKuaZ7HQzIB3qpIvfnxvNh%2BIr8avSyULp4yYunnGERH3UCYTH22LM9wcdAKIM6b0C5Mo4Zo8gqmritKxyXnz%2FvD4d%2F%2BlSMgjhnBinI0QdBCcVtwRkZxiClz%2B%2FvkHk%2BmBYHtduSrWaaK9GDgIuD4vPWdT5vg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7L12aCnZA), but I HIGHLY recommend checking out this better quality kit (www.californiamotorbikes.com/product-page/2018-wildcat-80cc-motorized-bike-kit-150mpg-35mph). Those are just the traditional 66cc engines. I recommend also looking I to the Avenger 85 engine kit (85cc) which has more than double the power, but of course costs a bit more. www.californiamotorbikes.com/product-page/wildcat-85cc-engine-kit
@@spongypancake Type in "California Motorbikes. Com" (without spaces) and it is there regular Wildcat pk80 kit. It should be $130 or something. Don't get the ported kit cause it is really a waste.
@@The_Flying_Comrade there are SO many variables with 4 strokes and not as common. When it comes to 4-stroke motorized bikes, there are the 50cc, 100cc, and 212cc engines. Everyone knows how to mod a Predator 212 (and there are MANY in depth videos about it). The 100cc engines are identical to the Predator 80 engine, which is also widely covered. And as far as the 50cc (Honda GXH50 clone), there really isn't much you can do and for what you can do, there really isn't much difference in terms of performance.
Biggest thing for 2 strokes power put down is to do with the exhaust vavle and them bt’s don’t have them so your never gonna get as much power as you want. 😅
I talk about CDI's in this video: ruclips.net/video/z30UREt5zzA/видео.html Me and Keegan also talk about the best CDI's in our most recent Podcast episode: ruclips.net/video/VQu9IDBvK6s/видео.html
Unless you have upped the compression and/or advanced the ignition timing, you do not really gain any type of power or reliability when running premium fuel. If you are using a stock engine, 87 octane will be more than satisfactory. A lot of people talk about HOW BAD ethanol is and HOW good octane is. Ethanol is good in many instances and ONLY due to user error (stored incorrectly, using crappy oil, an improperly tuned carburetor, and/or other user errors) do issues begin to appear, which are usually incorrectly related to ethanol. However, the same issues can occur even with premium fuels. Instead of opting for Premiun fuel, DEFINETELY look into how you can improve your oil (using higher quality full synthetic oil), using a better spark plug, or tuning your carburetor correctly. If you check these off your list and you are using a standard chinadoll engine or any 4-strokes, there is NO REASON to use premium fuel.
I would have liked you to put links for... because more than 40% of the things showed you... I have searched on Google... I can't find almost anything... thank you
Alot of them are not clearly advertised. Smolik Performance and RDM are really the only ones that clearly advertise. Though, you can contact Smolik, Ryan Darragh (RDM), Ken Hinson, Mitch Green, Alan Zhang, or Don Butler on Facebook and they should be able to get you a CNC of your choosing.
As far as running optimally, I reccomend comparing the performance between your TruFuel and using 93 octane with AmsOil Dominator oil. By experimenting between the 2, Ive found that AmsOil dominator runs a bit better and burns a good bit cleaner. As for expenses though, I dont see how $28 per gallon is "cheaper in the long run" compared to almost $6 a gallon for a superior oil premixed with 93 octane fuel.
You mean what CNC cases have a built-in reed valve (case reed)? Youll just have to look around, but Smolik Performance and RDM are really the only guys that advertise them, but I know Alan Zhang, Ken Hinson, or Mitch Green could get you one as well. If you want a specific one for a specific top end, ask around.
thanks, for me - not top end but just cheap bike for constant hills, no speed increase needed. just want it to work good and reliable for awhile@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665
I would check out Amazon. The prices are usually about the same after you calculate shipping on all the other sites. Though, wherever you get one, I would for sure get one with the chain-drive transmission over the belt. Unlike the 49cc kits, there is not any difference between the performance of the belt-drive and chain drive, but the chain will deliver the power MUCH better and require less maintenance.
1:37 The stock is so bad, that I replaced mine with, I kid you not, a vintage “Ful-Spark” plug, that had been sitting in a basement full of water, and it ran a actually ran 10 times better.😂 Also, can I even use the third upgrade? I have a bike that has a coaster as the only brake.
I mean, I understand the desire for more power, but, anyone riding a bike faster than about 30mph is insane lol. I've done it once, just once. Some of the sketchiest stuff I've done on a bike lol.
@@MmmHuggles I know where youre coming from. Un-modified road bikes and even beach cruisers get really squirrelly when you get above 35mph or so. But as someone who has ridden a stock beach cruiser 50mph and gona 60mph+ on a felt faker, it really comes down to the bike, not so much speed. Better wheels, tires, a better fork, wider handlebars, good Forks, and optimal rider positioning makes a HUGE difference when it comes to handling the roads and stability at higher speeds. Of course frame geometry and other stuff plays a big role. That's why the felt fakers are the frame of choice. If you build one of those with proper Forks, wheels, Brakes, etc, it handles better than a motorcycle cornering and at highway speeds.
Hey - You forgot to "Replace The Block". . . Whilst U'r at it, Why not Add U a SUPERCHARGER . ! ? A liddle NITROUS Perhaps. . . I just got one of these - The H-YeeU 110cc version - - - With it I ordered a PIPE & SILENCER & a cheapy CARB. W/ Air Filter. . . From what I can see - there is going to be Customising Issues - the first one being the Mount Brackets - the Frame is To2Too FaT.!.!.! It also looks like it'll have to get a Carb Offset Adapter Tube. . . Rite Now I'm locked out of my new E-Bike - It seems that I unwittingly enacted the Security Code. There is NO Factory Default Reset - That I can yet find. I've got about 10 or 12 hrs. In2 punching #'s & m only up 2 5,000. M gunna NEED 2 Burn some Gasoline.!.!.!
me watches the video: ehh i will do the sprocket hub adapter later it works for now also me: bends like 6 spokes i should have listened. edit: snapped 2 more
Premium gas isn't a suggestion, it's a necessity. I ride around looking for 91 stations at least and if I see 93 I don't care if I have half of a tank I'm sipping that sh up
No, it really isnt. As I said in the video, unless you have upped the compression and/or advanced the ignition timing, you do not gain ANY type of power or reliability increase. If you are using a stock engine, you are doing NOTHING for yourself other then spending an extra 45 cents per gallon extra for premium gas. A lot of people talk about HOW BAD ethanol is and HOW good octane is. Ethanol is good in many instances and ONLY due to user error (stored incorrectly, using crappy oil, an improperly tuned carburetor, and/or other user errors) do issues begin to appear that are usually incorrectly related to ethanol. However, the same issues can occur even with premium fuels
@@MrDoboz you're right. But for the sake of explaining every mod separately, I'm not just gonna say to buy a $1000 engine. Lol. I could have definitely noted that it makes more sense to simply buy the entire engine.
#1 timing hands down. Have to grind the keyway to change the timming. From the factory, the timing is on the ragged edge of being so advanced that they won't even run. And the crankcase weight is an absolute joke. It's like four times too heavy. These are not good engines for the most part. Also, most people are gearing them for way too much top end and they don't even do anything.
I agree. Ignition timing is definitely a good mod, but I didn't want to include that because I dont know much about it personally. Not to mention, my minarelli, as well as many others' engines run BEASTLY with the stock timing, so I see no real reason to change it.
@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 I guess i can't speak on all the engines timing now that i think about it. My experience is with the cheapest black ones from 4 or 5 years ago. Maybe there's a lot of variation.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 Sorry for the confusion with my reply. I was commenting on your accent, and wanted to know if you are from Orange County in Southern California. I haven't heard that accent in a long time now. Apologies if you are not. Also great video, very informative!
@@supergub lol. I live at the foothills of the Apalachians in West Virginia. None of my family have ever lived in California, but that is interesting you think my accent sounds a bit similar. Ive have been told that I have an odd accent.
So you just find a company & buy some stuff? I realize how stupid that sounds but I'm learning from the bottom up here & can't do MOD's before I know where to get the motor & parts? Anyhoo, subb'd up just to watch awhile. peace
Ohh, I'm aware of that or I wouldn't be here or asking questions.... lol, I'm actually saving for a dual sport & I've been researching 10-12 of those bikes but I came across your stuff & it deserves a further look & I'm about doing just that. Thanks for the time, Sir
FIRST UPGRADES: I highly recommend staying away from performance mods UNTIL you have properly and thoroughly gone through the break-in process on your engine and use correct lubrication, but the mods in this category are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED doing BEFORE the break-in process. These are recommended in order to keep your engine running well and increase reliability.
1st: The first being a short CNC intake - www.amazon.com/Mingdun-32mm-40mm-Manifold-Connector-Motorized/dp/B08J7Z71QT/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2HG0FMHI61SY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.wgaWemGG1xZaETyDsDqQY84nX_S4EyZUcRlfQl6nxsYkrxTEjZqthGR9eUwV5oZoOjETmwl-kxQbEMVCGJPctqddy-SqO9iLIm3yCtEVk4pyNGTJGJRjezMSX_d73187KGXQ4XwUEh5pBoxLkknZwwz6zY4v9ug1MaYsQUJidku0PF7TVnYoTxePwSXrUNoFSLR4yd4NXuLy0cXEB_NHEJwtc_nV8vI0lR371sRgDO2ZhM89g_lEhPpwUzjTsMDBm8eV_ibZDt2H5xWWnEFguTOHuHiV3roXzMVPcp2wIeo.tUvwe_wPuG66lMDVEfGYeto-N-roShUk76haf9SWuuA&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized%2Bbike%2Bcnc%2Bintake&qid=1715354123&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized%2Bbike%2Bcnc%2Bintak%2Cautomotive%2C158&sr=1-1&th=1
2nd: Upgrading the spark plug is also a MUST! - www.amazon.com/NGK-BR7HS-Standard-Spark-Plug/dp/B000GZDI6W/ref=sr_1_2?crid=X3L8BJSW51TM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4gv2n1Pm65tXQGzCXIivxMmJ3_3vWhSsfbifXuq8B9UgHYQyLR6dVSwjzFbbGibRZM2CLFYNYt6JAMQqDsRfAuKU0QCSpIlwcc1oWO9jGUJyIRbKFvdJ6Nu9oqgawq2cgP8MKS93dX0iaj0z8y6F0ZD5ToLDTjiswMhAaWb1vD4OM7-vaTW7H0QTMJdLRe_Xz8kOQsVmcUUZsciKBOFkvl6muBQQ_sJJ2F9J64fbrfp8uXUBBWxRHEYqtUQDJ2FD7D8U0erBs7xc5wj-IEuhJSiEfLzYr9hqeK5YdBdkCic.1gfcHFlly-FusI9Gttk7384PRwhcl1EIAHI5DBv22fA&dib_tag=se&keywords=NGK%2Bbr7hs&qid=1715354636&s=automotive&sprefix=ngk%2Bbr7hs%2Cautomotive%2C107&sr=1-2&th=1
3rd: The third upgrade is a sprocket hub adapter (www.amazon.com/sthus-Sprocket-Adapter-Stroke-Motorized/dp/B07GWHXMTJ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=18FPXCSBYN6B7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.sKEWIRtySrBmJdUvRrNCgm_Q5X-9XHwIYIqKtyFsGVdhCMhkSpr7uuV-gisM5vRqq9e1aeBY5PjWD7sc1Kk3ZQLh3kQDV5TBSsRX8z8SFYVmIWyS9oDw9dxAe0XmN4x54x1RyGjGcqrXdqCOpJl9qWVGdoWWnofL6q-RpyLo0j6wPyQZY3v1HwGDH1vmGWIoe90JSNyV4KQBo6_i83K2SQAA0mtk72sVmpBHbRKT8eq3oIOgnwlfE4VKArLVaSamh7JCWXybzyKRB7wmeJWCWT44ZQ92Vdg8RguZmA4POX0.XGIMqc_KF0kHE4NSR6DVb7TqTzS1EsZg5sN75NKDi64&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+hub+adapter&qid=1715354767&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized+bike+hub+adapter%2Cautomotive%2C107&sr=1-7) or an alternative method to mounting your sprocket - ruclips.net/video/3q76xcT_sQI/видео.html
NOTICE: A hub adapter will only really work if your has a constant diameter (all the way along the width of the inside of the hub) of 1in or 1.5in.
Concerning brakes: If you want to go overboard on brakes, check out the Smolik Performance pit bike brake setup - smolikperformance.com/collections/all-products/products/front-pit-bike-adapter
PERFORMANCE MODS:
After you have done the previous mods and have properly broken-in your engine, it’s time for the real performance mods.
4th: A balanced crank - smolikperformance.com/products/zl40mm-crank-balanced-and-trued?_pos=5&_sid=5ab570fe9&_ss=r
5th: A good exhaust - ruclips.net/video/ZBZV0xXFjlM/видео.html
6th: Porting and decking - ruclips.net/video/V4yWn7ZcZ7k/видео.html
7th: Premium gas or race fuel - (only after porting and decking)
8th: A Reed valve - (requires a windowed piston) G2 - www.amazon.com/Miaowa-Racing-Intake-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B098X444WC/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4%3Aamzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&crid=3I0KNCIXC9BU3&cv_ct_cx=motorized+bike+reed+valve&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GnjMeLOPZgNDkzvE_fZ2o2L7Oca2RWbIL6eu9SZczbweXBbxM8h7HS5ZybsZAX8X.v9O8Ew1z4K0FOLieE7SLbMJeshvGx9SoGsV-0jNOzfU&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+reed+valve&pd_rd_i=B098X444WC&pd_rd_r=71beeb66-52f1-4d72-8625-dfd25ecf1d72&pd_rd_w=ddj2I&pd_rd_wg=O1tjF&pf_rd_p=679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&pf_rd_r=ZE5DJ9BAE0NDZ7GVHG0V&qid=1715355019&s=automotive&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=motorized+bike+reed+valv%2Cautomotive%2C144&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1
DIO Reed - www.amazon.com/Valve-Set-Reed-Block-Gas-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B0B5DCB627/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3SKE06ICH797L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.JlvyOY7u827hdKv_qW_6Jc2P4tqz2e14IpNfGZVYC80ydCddplJspRsdFdPgsxJjTO2kCn2940oVSnbbi4B33z8kaSjLT-6kOV-M_VQzK01BSPtUI_hIJ6ZHZZDqBgZGfPG6Lh1TWwGgx-ZFggpnTBSEZxH4ibYXZqsZ1_EDGk1b89b2APOoZ3voLsOS31Q3Mu-csfLs273zAGVab6MuMzrRNM-6ApMPX-3_JIGQ7Pdcf402uiFJjoGBiRCqcUUUQ4hg8Un837rLL6H7jxhKFwwPvmbCw2ZdPagIyy5wDm4.AudSMW11wODC-dEXLneaaKOnR-uWz66XM5Bb0SX2ldk&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+dio+reed+valve&qid=1715381630&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized+bike+dio+reed+vavle%2Cautomotive%2C168&sr=1-5
OZ Reed - ttps://www.amazon.com/CDHPOWER-Reed-Valve-Kit-19mm/dp/B07DVTQCX7/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3NKNVHCGCBDES&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.W4XcrCMjS7l6f6FiWfkrA3oYXOkZG5GzfL9Q-92dg4wfsLYKD674jS8g8Bpt0qkOwWSvqZAQV8KPqFsryZmV3JWnm0hxJCTbKZXkBfD2pcQIAqBGjJFh06HPNDEPZGU6QPZ-_rZWGpKqXxbOxW-61-LvMCX9Vh9o2qmi7xvvNh9H2zO-K3a3MjrTblZdrw1wovwCuKZGHlth4MfA1Rhi48Z0wsRZiKAzHFk7oNQ_zEGTgx3I2rRilBA01_dhBvY1MhwKla-bb-WqTB6PWQfye-2dHdCNEZE-Xq3FWC9DH64.tFWC5LJ31F6CWEN30u22UlCb_jPDaXxHmwrKCvA-s4o&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+reed+valve&qid=1715381657&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized+bike+reed+valve%2Cautomotive%2C100&sr=1-5
9th: Carburetor: Mikuni VM18, dellorto, NIBBI PE19, Pz19, PZ20, and PWK21.
10th: CNC Cylinder head - Here is a great cylinder head guide -
Smolik heads - smolikperformance.com/collections/cylinder-heads/products/smolik-cnc-head
Other CDH Heads - www.ebay.com/itm/284504977774
Cheaer options - www.amazon.com/jtfrkope-Cylinder-Racing-Engine-Silver/dp/B0BNSMS53N/ref=sr_1_4?crid=28X7UCWCKCMGK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gT80iTe9xLn2bKYlvFS_lush_CPkXTFjFoNH357mF_mDfooIaRxtxaPzjHdUeOm3JaN50mt9meShVLRBUKBkiNypMoot6xxi3uNQAJKnAX1FUnAJ31L4cUQSQnzUODOR9f6Q09EtiRdJf0Mkr50HX4batmlO7Dp1UyPCuTIOsy7jjzjDIQMYu7aOMDF14oRm1wscqWJWdYDpL8rj2Qs3nVf6nEO1EDG6F2Jf49sk9LJzUfgppS0x01OOzVGZQoRWpOmEFrihRDEdyod6-hvKdyWAtAeTWlVkBh-SKEf3fSo.cSDzossxl9INzjJjHhr_WVC1rXXOwTKRmy9wimD2GIs&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+cnc+head&qid=1715381858&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized+bike+cnc+hea%2Cautomotive%2C183&sr=1-4
11th: Ignition system guide - ruclips.net/video/z30UREt5zzA/видео.html
MBI Adjustable CDI - svm-bikes.company.site/products/MBI-Adjustable-CDIS-p624481639
Parmakit CDI - www.treatland.tv/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=parmakit-cdi-box-57001.29&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwi_exBhA8EiwA_kU1Mld2o1prkSjKmqKCnjqjWdbbdv0btT9Y59OoTsYljmIVIbP1c2YLkBoCUuMQAvD_BwE (contact Smolik Performance for help)
12th: Upgraded Cases -
Smolik Minarelli Vertical - smolikperformance.com/collections/cnc-cases/products/preorder-cnc-minarelli-case
Smolik YD100/Avenger 85/Phantom 85 - smolikperformance.com/collections/cnc-cases/products/cnc-avenger85-phantom85-case
Smolik Horizontal (case reed) - smolikperformance.com/collections/cnc-cases/products/2023-cnc-minarelli-horizontal-case-1
RDM Minarelli Vertical - rdmanu.com/products/minarelli-vertical-case-flat-mounts-presale?_pos=2&_sid=2566f5d93&_ss=r
RDM Piaggio - rdmanu.com/products/piaggio-engine-case?_pos=1&_sid=2566f5d93&_ss=r
(you can also contact both of these sellers privately and they are usually pretty good with custom cases or tracking specific ones down. You can also contact other sellers such as Ken Hinson, Mitch Green, Don Butler, Alan Zhang, etc)
14th: Hybrids
Minarellis - smolikperformance.com/collections/engines/products/70cc-minarelli-vertical-engine
Case reed minarelli - smolikperformance.com/collections/engines/products/2023-cnc-minarelli-horizontal-tier-2-engine
15th: A Stroker Crank - rdmanu.com/products/rdm-crankshaft-2023-q3-4-presale?_pos=1&_psq=crankshaft&_ss=e&_v=1.0
CLUTCH:
RDM HD clutch - rdmanu.com/products/stage-3-clutch-assembly-short-term-presale?_pos=8&_sid=b03948559&_ss=r
SAF Clutch - dlh-performance.myshopify.com/products/saf-super-clutch-f?_pos=10&_sid=7fd8a577d&_ss=r
thank you for this this was really helpful no lie and thank you for noticing that that sprocket kit from the stock sucks! everyone the the Facebook group said that they are reliable HWO MUCH ARE THEY GETTING PAYED TO SAY THAT?! what i did was get a rim just for this and it worked great!! it was like $80 but really sturdy ima prob doing the carb mod ngl also you have anything for oil leakage from the exhaust?
@@cashTilton Thanks for watching! As for the oil leaking out the exhaust, that is typically due to either low-quality oil (the cheaper conventional or Minarelli premix oils dont burn very well), too rich of a premix ratio, a carburetor that is running too rich, or a mixture of all three. I typically suggest using more oil rather than too little, but when it comes to oil puking out the exhaust, that can definetely cause a few issues.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 thank you for the advise
About the balanced crank, it´s not really just about being balanced, but reducing the crankcase compression on a 2 stroke engine takes a lot of power from the engine itself
Yes and no.
No because The cranks that come in these engines are so unbalanced it’s amazing that they don’t break bearings on break in. Balance factor on any 2 stroke crank is extremely important, because there aren’t any counter weights like you would have on a 4 stroke.
Yes you do want to have as little open space between the crank walls and the case walls, known as case volume, the smaller the amount of case volume you have, the better primary pressure you get through the transfers and into the combustion chamber.
As with any 2 stroke, the actual performance gaining tuning aspects are far more complicated than with a 4 stroke engine, there’s a ton of science and theory you have to understand to actually make a good engine. I’ve been at it for 15 years, my last 50cc moped went 82mph.
hi the only thing i care abnout is going up hills which are every 3 blockseach hill is 2- 5 blocks long, im in a DT big city area so i need to constanly stop and cant get going fast what crank system do u recommend
@@MrSagerific95
@@MrSagerific95 Have you thought of fitting a transmission of some sort of one of those engines. If yes, can you tell me how
@@SGmotorsport9590 You can run a Jack shaft to a separate gear box. That’s all I know how to do while keeping the original engine in tact. The mopeds I play with use a CVT transmission and a drive clutch.
@@MrSagerific95 Have you tried it. If yes, what transmission did you use
awesome info and no wasting my time with needless chatter and eye candy to the point thank you much subscribed
@@mathew-jq2vf Thank you very much for the support!
I came from the 2 stroke moped world before entering the motorized bike world. Over the last 15 years of tuning I’ve learned a lot about 2 strokes. The science behind getting REAL power out of a 2 stroke is so fascinating to me. Don’t let anybody tell you that 2 strokes are simple, the science and theory behind them is far more complex than any 4 stroke design. My last moped build was a 70cc liquid cooled that made 11hp and was good for 82mph. I’m just so addicted to the science of 2 strokes. Nice video brother!
Also just an FYI it’s pronounced “DEO” as in Ronny James Dio. Same way Spanish speakers pronounce “god”
I completely agree. Not only is it a science, but an art. Granted, a 4-stroke is a bit more than slapping bolt on mods together, but it definitely takes A LOT more to build a nice 2-stroke. They are simple in terms of their overall design and when it comes to maintenance and repairs, but there is definitely more to it than bolt-on mods.
Im addicted to them too. lol. Nothing better than getting crazy power out of a super tiny engine. I built and regularly ride my 212cc bike that is running on alcohol, advanced ignition, TM24 carb, etc, and my un-ported 50cc minarelli bike seems to have round about similar power.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 are you subscribed to 2 stroke stuffing yet? He’s awesome, I’ve watching his stuff for over 10 years, he’s truly an artist with 2 stroke tuning. And he did a couple videos with a motorized bike build that absolutely rips with a China cylinder.
Holy Diver lol
Amen to that! I had an old vintage race bike that was a Yamaha rd400, that thing had some serious engineering that we put into it to make it right for competition. But oh my god when that thing would hit 9 Grand the power was absolutely insane!! It was the only motorcycle I've ever owned that would really in all gears!
Turbos and superchargers are for 4strokes. They would interfere with how the pipe functions on a two stroke
some new snowmobiles use turbos stock
Ive seen some 2-stroke turbo setups, but as you said, there are many issues that would make a turbo/supercharged setup not practical, not to mention all the other hurdles.
There have been two strokes that have been properly tuned with a turbo or even superchargers! If I'm not mistaken I think that some of the outboard motors there are two strokes have had superchargers on them... But granted it is very hard to get it to work properly and takes a s*** ton of engineering
detroit 8v92 .... know before speaking ...
@@faulker6751 The older 2-stroke diesel engines are similar in terms of the process of combustion, however, there are key differences that make them VERY different and not at all comparable to other 2-stroke engines you would find on dirtbikes or motorized bikes.
Firstly, diesels such as the Detroit 8v92 have very low operating RPMs (around 2,100RPM), use a traditional exhaust system, and are fuel-injected. This makes a turbo MUCH more practical, more reliable, and functional compared to a turbo on a 14,000 RPM carbureted 2-stroke that requires a highly tuned and unrestricted expansion chamber exhaust.
I would tell you to know what you're talking about before speaking, but that would be mean.
I'd like to see you ride the stock bike followed up with one you have decked out. Or with each mod added show an example riding the bike and maybe explane where you feel the most gains. Pros n cons.
Awesome video on explanation. Best I've seen yet. I used to race moto so this is similar but way different at the same time. Pertaining to engine upgrades.
Thanks bro
@@That_40yrOld_Dad Absolutely. I started a build just two weeks ago and was planning on documenting the build process and document all of the modifications. Doing speed, acceleration, and RPM comparisons with each mod. I almost finished the bike, but ended up breaking my ankle before I could even take it for my first ride. Lol.
Thanks for watching. You support means a lot. I bet moto racing is so much fun.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 follow up on that video?
@@codyzepda I broke my ankle, had terrible health issues, and now that I'm better physically, I'm so busy I don't have any time to finish the build, much less the money. Lol. I'm sorry.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 glad your doing better in the long run. hopefully the healing process wasnt too rough. hope to see more of this type of content in the future tho. really helped me with my first build.
@@codyzepda Thanks for the support! It wasnt too bad with all things considered, but I wish I be a bit less busy. lol. Im glad to hear that I helped and if there is any questions, feel free to ask.
that was the video that everyone needed ! THX
Thank YOU for watching.
Thank you very much for this educational video, you put everything in order as it should and correctly extracted all the juices from the engine!
Thank YOU for watching and supporting the channel. It means a lot.
My 2 cents for newbies.....The shorty intake is mainly to solve clearance issues. So don't expect any kind of performance increase & sadly when using it, you then have clearance issues between the carburetor bottom/bowl & the clutch cable case guide bolt 🔩. So you have to cut the end of the bolt threads off/shorten it. So you can scew it down into the case lower to make room for the carburetor... Which then causes the clutch cable to be at a more awkward,less than ideal angle & make the cable a little harder to pull putting stress on it.... If you have carb clearance issues with stock intake. I think you're better off rugging up a small hose extension. Also the shorty intake causes more fuel to spit back out the carburetor. Which is probably 1 of the reasons the stock intake is curved downwards.
You are absolutely right. The shorty gives a barely noticeably performance increase, but is mainly used since it prevents air leaks so well and allows more clearance within your frame.
Though, I have honestly NEVER had clearance issues when using the shorty intake. You can kinda see in this video. ruclips.net/user/shortsAcVOvoHzCHM
The best knowledgeable men come from experience. I thank you for your time and generosity.
You are absolutely right. Thank you for watching.
Thank you for this.
When you said Hybrid Engine, I really perked up, because I thought you were gonna say connect an electric motor to the engine, or use hub-motors to provide instant torque from dead stops and low speeds, while the engine & gearing are setup for midrange to a high redline. Almost like a homemade Koenigsegg Regara. But it can be annoying to now keep track of a battery, even if you use a motor-controller with Brake-Regeneration, so stopping, or the engine itself can recharge the battery.
the thing at 0:16 looks like an adapter for the peddles of some form what is that called? and where can i find one?
This video shows a bit of insight on the whole setup. I basically welded BMX handlebars to fit with a cnc 2-stroke engine mount and the bar ends are threaded. I gutted the pedals and removed the bearings and then ran a bolt through them to thread into the handlebars to hold the pedals on. I fabricated a little tad on the bars so I could mount adjustable shifter rods (I used 11in, but your application might require a different size) which then mounted to the bottom bracket. I machined a little piece instead of the bottom bracket, but looking back, you probably won't see any issues if you bolted the shifter rod supports to the standard bottom bracket. ruclips.net/video/PMPJP4TcK5c/видео.htmlsi=sUvYNcS3bXGjVf1c
what is the name of the colorful exaust in the thumbnail it looks cool?
This is the ZDX65 exhaust sold by bicycle-engines.com. Its sounds pretty dang good and is one of the best pipes for these little engines: bicycle-engines.com
ok thanks@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665
What exhaust would.you recommend I'm in the UK and exhausts are a fortune to ship.
in my experience anything except stock as they are all just empty pipe, the stock diverts the gases back and then out again to help muffle sound so even removing the end is the same as buying a new exhaust, the main difference in exhaust is sound
Awesome info to put out there. I someday plan on having something setup. I still think the stuff has much to improve on. And hands down videos like this is helping these setups get there. Great Job!
what drill bit do you use for drilling the crank
1/2in
What are the best exausts
You're a beast, man! Very good video!
Thanks for watching. I'm glad I could help
Hi, try to milling another hole to increase stroke and use a sthill cilynder ms660.
@@luizroberto6915 you mean to increase the bore? And that is what I meant by a hybrid top end. Using another cylinder and piston from another engine (dirtbike, motorcycle, scooter, or commonly chainsaws). I am actually preparing to do an ms660 build in the foreseeable future.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 No, increase the stroke. You can drill a lower hole for connect rod, near the edge, in each side ( round part) cranck shaft and use a piston 54 or 56mm sthill ms660. Sorry for the bad text in english.
@@luizroberto6915 you're all good. I see what you mean.
are head screw mounts spacing universal for all cases?
no
What would u suggest to find things like the cncd crank case? I love the video great upgrades to do gonna consider all of these when making a engine
the stock cases are cncd too
Really the only sellers of the CNC cases are Smolik Performance and RDM. Smolik has more variety and usually has better shipping and better customer support.
Also try to get in touch with Ken Hinson, Allen Zhang, and Mitch Green on Facebook, cause they the guys behind alot of the performance parts and could possibly get you better products or possibly cheaper prices.
If you are gonna get a CNC case, make sure you have a cylinder planned out, since pretty much all the CNC cases are tailored to a specific cylinder.
Hey do you have the Smolik head? I was wondering how long the o ring gasket lasts for you?
@@1RickSanchez No I don't. But unless you remove the head, the Oring should pretty much forever.
Good stuff,thanks, what type of nos system you think is best?
Thanks for watching. As far as nitrous, it all depends. If you are shooting the nitrous through the carburetor, I would use a dry system. However, if you rout the nitrous to spray directly into the intake, youll want a wet system (fuel mixed in with the nitrous). I dont really know how you would get a wet NOS system to work properly with a bicycle, but here's info on the dry system: ruclips.net/video/GmlnzT4aioA/видео.html
Would you reccomend any head that is no more than 5mm higher than stock head? I have a trek x caliber 8 frame on my bike and a balanced crank on the engine, planning to do much much much more mods to it
I dont really know the dimensions of most heads off the top of my head, but here is a cylinder head guide that should help: www.reddit.com/r/AMBMotorizedBikeGroup/comments/18yidcv/which_motorized_bike_cylinder_head_is_the_best/
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 thanks!
I recommend trashing the cheap gas lines and buying a thicker hose mine just leaked all my gas out over night
Yes. It is recommended to all builders to use high quality fuel line. Even the cheaper "fuel line" shrinks and gets SUPER brittle.
What’s wrong with bike berry? I just ordered the stage 2 cdi & performance carb
Do not buy ANYTHING from BikeBerry!! If that be the exhaust, engine kit, or even an air filter, it is ALL worse quality than anything on Amazon and it is ALL INSANELY overpriced. Not only that, but they are NOTORIOUS for blatantly STEALING reputable sellers’ products and selling the EXACT product for more. DO NOT FALL FOR IT!
Such as the engines, BikeBerry charges $180 ON SALE ($250 originally) for a kit that sells for $120 or even $90 everywhere else. (BikeBerry's www.bikeberry.com/products/66-80cc-bbr-tuning-angle-fire-bicycle-engine-kit-2-stroke Genuine Triple 40 www.ebay.com/itm/224318087531?itmmeta=01HV9MJWFPQGEMF0NB75WRCKT5&hash=item343a66616b:g:0Q4AAOSw6HVl3YBH&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8AkM3QwmSrCYGrCvxPuIrn1dHWEp2Ql9tT9TJ0iGeXkeCJtIIRssTrzC81zhKO%2BZXUPyI%2Fjkj27Q%2BWwJDhb5pYKNb%2BSMrWGgxW%2B65t%2BJSW9hXcIwOmWAw7q%2BP%2BDTs%2FJoJ74enRgTA2OBsixowYy3c%2FtQ4yu1dq4J49erpjdyWLppmUqEVqjrwpY65GgtqPpjBsWF5xdTmFiS9Y7IzAe%2FitP1h%2BWDzym%2FCm7Tzs6cdutmO4COH62wypv%2F9wwBRaZnbK6Gs%2BABCoJTk2ArlIsLwa0xcEc0R1gZm4RP6T8DHKLdRrZioP9ATnhE7YgVYlsN%2Bg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_rHy7TaYw) That would be tame, but the fact is, the kit BikeBerry sells is even WORSE than the $90 kit. See, the engine is called a Triple 40 and is the bar for reliability and performance. Many sellers sell this kit and BikeBerry’s base model kit is meant to copy off the Triple 40. However, they use lower quality components and a shorter 38mm stroke crank. This not only makes their version of the Triple 40 unreliable, but also perform terribly. And they charge double for their kit. Lol
Not only that, but a LOT of the parts they sell are complete scams. Not to mention EVERYTHING is INSANELY overpriced. For instance, this cylinder head (www.bikeberry.com/products/bbr-tuning-billet-aluminium-high-compression-cylinder-head-66-80cc?_pos=2&_sid=ec6b1425f&_ss=r), which is literally worse than the stock heads (DO NOT GET) is sold on BikeBerry for $60 after shipping ON SALE. However, the original producer of this part sells it for only $25 (www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Cylinder-Gasket-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B0BVC2SGZX/ref=sr_1_30?crid=12AIWOGA88TXD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.oH0aqAU2OpQjF0EoEDqfKYJG8lTeog0k4RJIRYIo0nCfe2ScMsDIkeMTXh-BIo_niS2W5jXwGSShn5dmVYgs_c623hkPbiv3_nDHGkPY-qO8j1po49rTlXVZ7TPhS5JWNxUg3S4k0qx7T-NZ9Uz08A.mg9TvXJ3eJXdT6G0YhfCD29pNhS7YGpf8-ZV7r2Mtuo&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorized+bike+cnc+cylinder+head&qid=1712942106&s=automotive&sprefix=motorized+bike+cnc+cylinder+head%2Cautomotive%2C78&sr=1-30)
This exhaust is sold on Amazon for $25 (GARBAGE EXHAUST, DO NOT GET)(www.amazon.com/HGC-Silencer-Muffler-2-Stroke-Motorized/dp/B07QR62774/ref=pd_ci_mcx_di_int_sccai_cn_d_sccl_3_3/146-6477399-6469042?pd_rd_w=WUJaV&content-id=amzn1.sym.751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_p=751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_r=ZDQD7KSC1BFT4B5E95J9&pd_rd_wg=5LZyQ&pd_rd_r=19c1e43e-f08f-43af-aca5-974c940ff8cf&pd_rd_i=B07QR62774&psc=1). However, BikeBerry sells this exhaust for $50 after shipping ON SALE.
These arent just the START and is actually just the first page of their "performance parts" webpage. There is this (www.bikeberry.com/products/digital-tachometer?_pos=1&_sid=3ed163d22&_ss=r) selling for $45 (sells for $13 EVERYWHERE else), and blatant ripoff's like these chopper mounts (www.bikeberry.com/products/bbr-tuning-cnc-occ-chopper-motor-mount?_pos=1&_sid=97c719c5f&_ss=r) compared to the original pedal chopper mounts. Also, bike berry sells their performance clutch plate, which is a DIRECT copy off the RDM clutch plate. Its funny, cause when you bought them from BikeBerry, they would LITERALLY send you one WITH RDM engraved into it. lol
If have been in the motorized bike game for years and years like Keegan Hache, Build-Break-Fix, Smolik Performance, and I, it is easy to distinguish good parts from bad parts. You take anybody who knows what they are doing, and they will tell you that there is VERY FEW products on BikeBerry that are NOT COMPLETE SHAMS. And ALL the other parts that are NOT shams (literally 2) are SO INSANELY overpriced.
Not to mention, many Bike Berry parts COMPLETELY disregard safety. Im talking about many of their cylinder heads ("pancake" and "race" heads"), which causes the engine to overheat VERY easily and causing DETRIMENTAL damage, ALL of their exhausts (besides their "deluxe pipe,") are TRASH and tend to either rip the exhaust threads out of the cylinder, perform NOTICEABLY worse than stock, and/or completely fall apart from the poor quality. Their ignition systems run like TRASH and actually negatively affect performance, the boost bottles literally only create air leaks, the "vibration engine mounts" do anything but make the engine have a LOT more play, causing it to twist when accelerating. I can go on for EVER!
Not only that, but their customer service is FANTASTIC when it comes to making a purchase, but after a purchase, the service is TERRIBLE! Im talking no refunds, no remorse for their faulty products, and they will delete/take down any negative reviews. lol
I could go on as to WHY you should NOT even consider using Bike Berry, but I think I can rest my case.
Hey, thanks man! I really appreciate your honesty and detail. I've been watching their videos to help with putting together a 2-stroke kit a friend gave me. Glad I found your videos. 😃
@@jmalo4576 Thank you for watching. Im glad I could help a bit.
Awesome video I hope there's links to where we can get the specialized parts such as the CNC case
I Need Sprocket hub Adapter
Smolik Performance for the cnc case. It's expensive but worth it for the quality.
I've litterly watched 100s of 2stroke bike engine videos since I'm an old 2 stroke guy & love a well tuned 2 stroke..!
I just started a vintage mini bike build, trying to decide on power plant..? I think I've decided on a couple 2 stroke bike engines😁
I'm thinking two 100cc stroker motors if possible? Cnc cases are a must & a balanced crank etc...
Who do you recommend for quality parts..? Also since its a mini bike I will need to figure out a drive system... Any ideas..?
If you have Facebook, please DM me @Noah Alger (nickname is Beefy Man Supreme). That way, you can send pictures, which will make it a TON easier for me to help.
As for quality parts, Smolik Performance and RDM are by far the best names in the game.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 Friend request sent.
How do you address the cnc shorty intake problem of canting the carburetor downhill? Every bike I put a shorty on has the carb facing downhill causing float movement issues.
Huh. I live in the foothills of the Appalachian mountains and go up some SERIOUS hills and have never noticed an issue with the shorty intake. If you are having a problem, you'll have the same problem with the stock intake.
I want to be able to put a 100 cc bike motor kit into a small pit bike but I can’t get it to make enough power for it to be able to drive off road I want to be able to make a home made pit bike how do I get it to be able to do that
If you have not already gotten yourself the engine, I reccomend going with the Avenger 85, since it is pretty budget friendly and has a TON of power compared to any other stock engine.
However, if you have already gotten the engine, you'll want to definitely upgrade to a good exhaust, do some port work, upgrade to a reed valve and a better/bigger carburetor, and follow the video until you feel that the engine performs to your liking. For DIY videos on how to install these parts, how to do port work, etc, there are PLENTY of videos out there, notably Keegan Hache.
Though, depending on the pit bike (if its more like one of those Coleman minibikes), you could also go for something like a Predator 212 engine, which has a lot of torque, which is what you need for offroading.
Stability and reliability is wayyy more important than performance. So if there's ways to make the whole built more stable and secure, then i welcome it. When it comes to exhausts i would rather see some that make the whole thing more quiet because noise is really one of my biggest concerns. Especially when you do not intend to drive super fast anyway but just 20-25km/h and want to run the engine as a subtle support. And not pretending to ride a freaking Motorcycle. You just wanna keep the noise volume under control.
I'm just putting mine together now but I plan on upgrading it but the upgrades this guy is talking about cost a lot of money all that has to be machined automotive that just cost a little over $100 it's crazy I bought mine off Temu for 109 bucks it's the yd100 stock that supposedly supposed to go about 30 mph
Is the saf budget clutch as good as the regular or expensive saf clutch, what are the differences? Thanks.
The budget one uses the stock chinadoll clutch plate, which warps easily and has lots of give in it. The CNC plates gran better and dont slip as much. Is it worth the extra $80, I dont know.
New to the channel and this is great to help me with my first build
Thank you very much for watching. Im glad I could help
what is a good 2 model carbs for a hilly town, i dont need speed i bike around downtown area so im constantly stopping for people, poles,, obstacles, potholes, construction etc and streetlights every 2 blocks so i just power to climb alot of hils
Torque is what that is called. To get more torque, you wont really find it in the carburetor, but more in the compression and porting area, and definitely the exhaust. While a carburetor could help with torque, it really only helps with torque when paired with the mods mentioned.
If you dont want to overhaul your bike with performance mods but having trouble getting up hills, you'll want to look into gearing. When increasing the size of the rear sprocket, you get more torque with a slight speed sacrifice. Gearing is important with any bike.
What way does the aluminum head gasket go 80cc bike does bevel go to the head or the cylinder it has hump on one side of gasket
It doesn't really matter. I honestly dont put it on any specific way when I build mine, so you should be good. lol
Great video!!
Thanks for watching
Ive actually never had any problems with the doughnuts ive nvr broke spokes or had to re adjust or tighten them. I feel like ive been wuper lucky considering ive only had engines that makes 5+ hp
Yeah. I overexaggerated with that point in terms of it not working properly and breaking spokes. Truth is, you can get them pretty close to true and with proper maintanence, they wont shred spokes (as much).
Though, in terms of difficulty, reliability, and adjustability, the hub adapters are more idiot proof and are more reliable than even a well setup pineapple joint sprocket. They also allow you to adjust the chain alignment EXTREMELY easily and make it easy to change the sprocket, etc.
I added it to the reliability mods because its one less thing to mess with and makes life a good bit easier.
Thanks I really needed that video
Where u get a cnc case an also where for the clutch upgrade.
look at my pinned comment for links to all the parts mentioned.
So if someone upgraded everything on the list minus turbo and nos, what do some of the gains look like?
If they do it properly, youll see upwards of 16hp and excess of 13k rpm. This guy is simply experimenting with things and is hitting over 70mph. ruclips.net/video/p6gBIsOXtaU/видео.html
This is only a 49cc engine, but the big numbers come from design differences and the top quality parts: ruclips.net/video/1ZJ8ZxRJrXI/видео.html
How much in total do you think it was to upgrade the engine?
I'm not going to go all out prob stock block and cylinder
If you did all the other stuff without upgrading the block and cylinder, you could spend anywhere from $150 to $500. I have the links to all the parts I mentioned in my pinned comment so you can price things out.
I got an off-brand 80cc, just had to pre-order an offset intake manifold for her because the regular shorty one makes the carb hit the block and clutch aperture. Make sure you guys check it twice before ordering 😅
It depends on the carburetor and how you have the clutch adjusted. Alot of people say the shorter intakes and the reed valves make the carburetor hit the clutch arm, but when I adjust the clutch correctly, I have no issues.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 in this motors case, it hits right next to the mounting nut. The carb is an NT, I don't even think it's for this kit (seems awful big), but seems to do the job great
07:57. I see what you did there. Lol
@@themadasshatter1088 lol.
whats a couple good stroker cranks to buy model numbers, do you have a link to order website page of the 2 clutches
I dont really know of any stroker cranks other than the ones RDM (Ryan Daragh): rdmanu.com/products/rdm-crankshaft-2023-q3-4-presale
As for the clutches, here is the HD clutch: rdmanu.com/products/clutch-upgrade-kit-stage-2
and the SAF clutch: www.motoredlife.com/products/s-a-f-clutch-v2?variant=39745264386161
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 thanks
Have you bought any kits with the 3-liter tank
I have not used the larger gas tanks. Ive used the bike frames with the built-in gas tanks, but I've only ever used the smaller 2-liter tanks.
Seems like "upgrade" just means replace everything and build a whole new motor.
Yeah.. can't expect to just turn a few screws and make the thing a rocket
Even though it's a 2 stroke, small displacements are kind of a pain to squeeze power out from
I get the point you're making... and at the moment everything in the video seems expensive but im gonna take the tips he gave none the less( as he's been doing it a lot longer) also i guess i just prefer something i build with my own hands?
Sweet pretty much went on all topics except one gear modification to put the power down
Yeah. Gearing is important.
where can i find saf clutches? DLH's website everything is sold out.
Yeah. DLH hasn't been stocking their products. I dont know why. With that being said, unless you buy one used, there isn't really any way to get a genuine SAF clutch. Though, its pretty easy to make one using an California Motorbikes or RDM clutch plate and some hardware and springs.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 okay cool, thanks!
Hey guys, My carburetor is leaking gas from the cover area which i think is called a float. Its the NT carburetor with the red cover. I checked my donut it has no holes and it wasn't stuck. Any advice?
Make sure the carburetor is not at too much of an angle and is virtually horizontal. If this doesnt fix your issue, make sure your float needle is installed correctly and seals properly. If these dont solve your issue, try bending the little tab for the float's needle upwards a bit, so it shuts off the fuel flow sooner.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 My carburetor is on a good angle, how can I check if my needle is installed correctly and seals properly? Which tab it it the one that the donut pushes up against? If so how do I bend it up? Sorry I can usually fix any problem w my bike but when it comes to carburetors....It doesn't look good for me. Thanks! Let me know
@@ayyanahmad4602 Im actually planning on filming a video on this because Ive been asked this question, so look out for that (probably tonight).
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 Ight man ill be waiting on that. I also have a video of my problem as well. Thanks!
My clutch cable brake a lot. What do you use?
Make sure you are using the proper lever (the crappy ones that come with these kits are flimsy and can shred cables). Also make sure your clutch is adjusted properly. If the bucking bar is at too much of an angle, it can put too much stress on the cable.
What do boost bottles do and are they improve anything?
I posted a video of the idea behind boost bottles a little while ago. In that video (and additional information in the description), I explain why boost bottles don't work.
Literally the only thing a boost bottle does is increase the intake volume. The ONLY way this would somewhat increase performance would be if the engine was previously running extremely rich. The boost bottle would lean out the fuel mixture, but as far as performance, it would negatively affect performance compared to a well tuned carburetor.
What would happen if I changed the exhaust before the engines broken in?
The main reason I reccomend doing performance mods after break-in for primarily one reason. I dont know about other builders, but I tend to go gung-ho when it comes to performance parts and make it IMPOSSIBLE to NOT push the engine to the limits, which is NOT what you want in a break-in process. lol
There is usually a lot of carburetor tuning involved when you do mods before or during break-in. Its simpler to just run it stock when breaking-in, but it doesnt matter as long as you doing the proper break-in process.
which spurk plug should i buy?
NGK is BY FAR the best brand to use. If you are using a 2-stroke engine, I HIGHLY reccomend the NGK B7HS spark plug. Youll get both optimal performance and reliability out of that one on pretty much any 2-stroke motorized bike. Though, keep in mind that a lot of aftermarket cylinder heads have deeper/longer spark plug threads, so youll need to match up the thread "reach" with this chart: assets.sparkplugs.com/lc/NGK_Plug_Chart_1_web.jpg
hi i just got fixerupper bike, and someone else put on a relatively new autolite 216 spark plug, is that good enough for awhile? 50cc engine, heavy cheap mt bike, im going to be riding about 3 days a week averaging 10 miles, with small to medium frequent hills
Yes. That will do just fine. Next time you replace the spark plug, I highly reccomend using a genuine NGK plug, since they are usually MUCH higher quality than the other Autolite plugs. Though, the heat range and specs of the plug you mentioned will perform just fine on a bike.
ok thanks but which model numnber there are many plugs from any one company@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665
I was originally planning to buy a kit from bikeberry, but now you are saying bike berry is the worst so I wont buy from them. But can you please send some links for cheap 66cc 3stroke engine kits that aren't complete ripoffs?
@@spongypancake Here is a cheap one that works OK (www.ebay.com/itm/185804288965?itmmeta=01J4X0PFAMM4HKMXNRWM1YWS2B&hash=item2b42cc73c5:g:NxsAAOSwUFRlnOJN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0MqkXqi9Az6wJ4goyADCa9XdNZ2BQU5r4ejHPlGE%2BElH%2BS%2B6I9DoNwwjiGvpyE1gPq9qV7Us0htPFiGPFNVqhqwCbxI4VMvh8P31KskBCz3PaKWRT1iP2ymLGDB2aKuaZ7HQzIB3qpIvfnxvNh%2BIr8avSyULp4yYunnGERH3UCYTH22LM9wcdAKIM6b0C5Mo4Zo8gqmritKxyXnz%2FvD4d%2F%2BlSMgjhnBinI0QdBCcVtwRkZxiClz%2B%2FvkHk%2BmBYHtduSrWaaK9GDgIuD4vPWdT5vg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7L12aCnZA), but I HIGHLY recommend checking out this better quality kit (www.californiamotorbikes.com/product-page/2018-wildcat-80cc-motorized-bike-kit-150mpg-35mph).
Those are just the traditional 66cc engines. I recommend also looking I to the Avenger 85 engine kit (85cc) which has more than double the power, but of course costs a bit more. www.californiamotorbikes.com/product-page/wildcat-85cc-engine-kit
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 TY for the repply, but I cannot open the link for the better quality kit, do you have another link?
@@spongypancake Type in "California Motorbikes. Com" (without spaces) and it is there regular Wildcat pk80 kit. It should be $130 or something. Don't get the ported kit cause it is really a waste.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 ok thx
lmao the way you said "trash" in the spark plug part, sounded a lot like XQC haha
Lol. I have no clue who that is, but I just HAD to look up a clip of XQC saying "trash" and you are COMPLETELY right. lol
Just something to try
CDH now sells a 1.25 inch hub mount I'm using one on mine nice video 👍
Sweet. Ill have to check it out. I know BikeBerry sells a good assortment of hub adapters, though, they are pretty overpriced knowing BikeBerry.
what about 4 strokes
@@The_Flying_Comrade there are SO many variables with 4 strokes and not as common. When it comes to 4-stroke motorized bikes, there are the 50cc, 100cc, and 212cc engines. Everyone knows how to mod a Predator 212 (and there are MANY in depth videos about it). The 100cc engines are identical to the Predator 80 engine, which is also widely covered. And as far as the 50cc (Honda GXH50 clone), there really isn't much you can do and for what you can do, there really isn't much difference in terms of performance.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 49cc :p
I would make an hybrid with some sort of ebike kit
Biggest thing for 2 strokes power put down is to do with the exhaust vavle and them bt’s don’t have them so your never gonna get as much power as you want. 😅
Valve? It's a weedwhacker motor not a Detroit Diesel 😂 none of them have valves... unless you count a reeded intake...
What is the best cdi
I talk about CDI's in this video: ruclips.net/video/z30UREt5zzA/видео.html
Me and Keegan also talk about the best CDI's in our most recent Podcast episode: ruclips.net/video/VQu9IDBvK6s/видео.html
We have 99 in the uk as premium fual will that be ok or should I use 97 but it has E10
Unless you have upped the compression and/or advanced the ignition timing, you do not really gain any type of power or reliability when running premium fuel. If you are using a stock engine, 87 octane will be more than satisfactory.
A lot of people talk about HOW BAD ethanol is and HOW good octane is. Ethanol is good in many instances and ONLY due to user error (stored incorrectly, using crappy oil, an improperly tuned carburetor, and/or other user errors) do issues begin to appear, which are usually incorrectly related to ethanol. However, the same issues can occur even with premium fuels.
Instead of opting for Premiun fuel, DEFINETELY look into how you can improve your oil (using higher quality full synthetic oil), using a better spark plug, or tuning your carburetor correctly. If you check these off your list and you are using a standard chinadoll engine or any 4-strokes, there is NO REASON to use premium fuel.
lmmfao loved that tip and shade thrown at bike berry! lol
lol.
I would have liked you to put links for... because more than 40% of the things showed you... I have searched on Google... I can't find almost anything... thank you
Check the comments again. I have a pinned comment where I give an entire list of all the parts mentioned in the video
Can I use petrol 96 and 98?
@@m7areb_gtg you should be able to. Just make sure you use the proper lubrication and you might need to re-tune your carburetor
I want to build me a motor like BUILD BUILD when i start working in 2 months but i cant find a cnc case anywhere
Alot of them are not clearly advertised. Smolik Performance and RDM are really the only ones that clearly advertise. Though, you can contact Smolik, Ryan Darragh (RDM), Ken Hinson, Mitch Green, Alan Zhang, or Don Butler on Facebook and they should be able to get you a CNC of your choosing.
Use true fuel or tru fuel it's pre mix and makes 2 strokes run optimal for longer and less money in the long run
As far as running optimally, I reccomend comparing the performance between your TruFuel and using 93 octane with AmsOil Dominator oil. By experimenting between the 2, Ive found that AmsOil dominator runs a bit better and burns a good bit cleaner. As for expenses though, I dont see how $28 per gallon is "cheaper in the long run" compared to almost $6 a gallon for a superior oil premixed with 93 octane fuel.
nah my breaks r the best called shoe breaks a bit sketch when it’s wet tho
@@xavaarea6ty126 lol.
what cnc have a built in hole for a reed pipe?
You mean what CNC cases have a built-in reed valve (case reed)? Youll just have to look around, but Smolik Performance and RDM are really the only guys that advertise them, but I know Alan Zhang, Ken Hinson, or Mitch Green could get you one as well. If you want a specific one for a specific top end, ask around.
thanks, for me - not top end but just cheap bike for constant hills, no speed increase needed. just want it to work good and reliable for awhile@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665
where do i buy cnc head?
I will be releasing a video sharing where to buy these parts. coming soon.
Does anyone know what's the best place to get a 4-stroke with 100cc?
I would check out Amazon. The prices are usually about the same after you calculate shipping on all the other sites.
Though, wherever you get one, I would for sure get one with the chain-drive transmission over the belt. Unlike the 49cc kits, there is not any difference between the performance of the belt-drive and chain drive, but the chain will deliver the power MUCH better and require less maintenance.
1:37 The stock is so bad, that I replaced mine with, I kid you not, a vintage “Ful-Spark” plug, that had been sitting in a basement full of water, and it ran a actually ran 10 times better.😂
Also, can I even use the third upgrade? I have a bike that has a coaster as the only brake.
Lol. Sounds about right! As for the hub adapter, it depends on your hub and middle diameter.
I mean, I understand the desire for more power, but, anyone riding a bike faster than about 30mph is insane lol. I've done it once, just once. Some of the sketchiest stuff I've done on a bike lol.
@@MmmHuggles I know where youre coming from. Un-modified road bikes and even beach cruisers get really squirrelly when you get above 35mph or so. But as someone who has ridden a stock beach cruiser 50mph and gona 60mph+ on a felt faker, it really comes down to the bike, not so much speed. Better wheels, tires, a better fork, wider handlebars, good Forks, and optimal rider positioning makes a HUGE difference when it comes to handling the roads and stability at higher speeds. Of course frame geometry and other stuff plays a big role. That's why the felt fakers are the frame of choice. If you build one of those with proper Forks, wheels, Brakes, etc, it handles better than a motorcycle cornering and at highway speeds.
This video was very helpful
Thank you very much for watching
Hey - You forgot to "Replace The Block". . . Whilst U'r at it, Why not Add U a SUPERCHARGER . ! ? A liddle NITROUS Perhaps. . . I just got one of these - The H-YeeU 110cc version - - - With it I ordered a PIPE & SILENCER & a cheapy CARB. W/ Air Filter. . . From what I can see - there is going to be Customising Issues - the first one being the Mount Brackets - the Frame is To2Too FaT.!.!.! It also looks like it'll have to get a Carb Offset Adapter Tube. . . Rite Now I'm locked out of my new E-Bike - It seems that I unwittingly enacted the Security Code. There is NO Factory Default Reset - That I can yet find. I've got about 10 or 12 hrs. In2 punching #'s & m only up 2 5,000. M gunna NEED 2 Burn some Gasoline.!.!.!
The cheap 100 dollar engine you got did they come with Bofang or not carburetor
Yeah, they did. As far as I know, most kits nowadays come with the Bofeng carbs.
You need to build me one.
Holy crap
You are a god
New sub, thanks for the info
Thank you very much for watching
me watches the video: ehh i will do the sprocket hub adapter later it works for now
also me: bends like 6 spokes
i should have listened.
edit: snapped 2 more
@@leominecraftplay1084 oof. I hope you can figure it out
fire vid
Thank you for watching.
i also will say good luck putting a turbo on a 2 stroke its not fun haha
Lol. not at all. Definetely doable with recent technology to back, but dang near impossible and pointless on a motorized bike. lol
Premium gas isn't a suggestion, it's a necessity. I ride around looking for 91 stations at least and if I see 93 I don't care if I have half of a tank I'm sipping that sh up
No, it really isnt. As I said in the video, unless you have upped the compression and/or advanced the ignition timing, you do not gain ANY type of power or reliability increase. If you are using a stock engine, you are doing NOTHING for yourself other then spending an extra 45 cents per gallon extra for premium gas.
A lot of people talk about HOW BAD ethanol is and HOW good octane is. Ethanol is good in many instances and ONLY due to user error (stored incorrectly, using crappy oil, an improperly tuned carburetor, and/or other user errors) do issues begin to appear that are usually incorrectly related to ethanol. However, the same issues can occur even with premium fuels
Run 100 octane avgas!
@@justincase1575 I looked into that. But honestly, running straight Ethanol or even standard E85 seems to be more advantageous.
wat if i hav drimers motors bike
drimers modors baic is not work the rigkt way bekause ketju lining is not perfectionismi.exe
@@KkornerUkkoo i tink its not ye lining it the jako
@@Pyry_A itcs both but jaco more
@@KkornerUkkoo okei or the kettingit is full pieke of sit
Stay away from the spoke breaking hard to get tight hub adapters! Junk!
Buy 130 octane fuel online and mix you a ratio
cnc case sounds more like you should rather buy a complete high quality engine, not "upgrade" the cheap crap you have
@@MrDoboz you're right. But for the sake of explaining every mod separately, I'm not just gonna say to buy a $1000 engine. Lol. I could have definitely noted that it makes more sense to simply buy the entire engine.
turbocharging a 2 stroke at home will most likely make you lose power
It depends on the setup and the engine, but with a motorized bike, you're right.
No it won't, if done wrong, yeah then it does
Why don't you like bike berry?
@@diegocordero676 ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMbR1bJUsjyCKHM6QIJToV0VZPt0NDBrA?si=Ur9Q-Xxihme2HVCi
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 rip I already bought a boost bottle and an exhaust from them
Try a spark plug e3/10 at orielys
Very informative and sounds like you know yer sh&#.
#1 timing hands down. Have to grind the keyway to change the timming. From the factory, the timing is on the ragged edge of being so advanced that they won't even run. And the crankcase weight is an absolute joke. It's like four times too heavy. These are not good engines for the most part. Also, most people are gearing them for way too much top end and they don't even do anything.
I agree. Ignition timing is definitely a good mod, but I didn't want to include that because I dont know much about it personally. Not to mention, my minarelli, as well as many others' engines run BEASTLY with the stock timing, so I see no real reason to change it.
@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 I guess i can't speak on all the engines timing now that i think about it. My experience is with the cheapest black ones from 4 or 5 years ago. Maybe there's a lot of variation.
Spoken like a true southern californian, OC?
?
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 are you from Orange county
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 Sorry for the confusion with my reply. I was commenting on your accent, and wanted to know if you are from Orange County in Southern California. I haven't heard that accent in a long time now. Apologies if you are not. Also great video, very informative!
@@supergub lol. I live at the foothills of the Apalachians in West Virginia. None of my family have ever lived in California, but that is interesting you think my accent sounds a bit similar. Ive have been told that I have an odd accent.
So you just find a company & buy some stuff? I realize how stupid that sounds but I'm learning from the bottom up
here & can't do MOD's before I know where to get the motor & parts? Anyhoo, subb'd up just to watch awhile. peace
@@diggy-d8w lol. There is lot more to it than that.
Ohh, I'm aware of that or I wouldn't be here or asking questions.... lol, I'm actually saving for a dual sport
& I've been researching 10-12 of those bikes but I came across your stuff & it deserves a further look &
I'm about doing just that. Thanks for the time, Sir
👌👀👍
Lacking power?! Maybe ur bike. Thats not at all how intakes work.
Not being a dick but all your info is wrong.
I have mixed opinions, no offense. However, you know what you're talking about, and I respect that, still insightful at the very least.
@@ZenWook thanks for watching and the support means a lot. If you don't understand or have any other questions, feel free to ask.
The problem is finding its parts...the 2/3 are practically impossible to find for a basic person like me
Im working on a guide to WHERE you can buy these parts.
Bike berry,gas bike,ebay
If I do anything like this to my motor I'll blow it up it was 60 bucks from china but still a help full video
lol. All these engines come from china.