Honestly, its genuinely impressive that you built a motor that moved the bike at all. Even the 50cc motors from ebay kits have trouble fully propelling a bike, and usually don't last much longer than your engine does. 100/10 badass execution of "know-how"
@erixccjc2143 not all of them are garbage, people just don't wanna spend the money for the real manufacturers and get the cheapest kit they can find. I know someone that has gotten 500miles out of an ebay 50, i know someone thats gone through 3 of them, one of them bought legit, one shopped low to high. Also most of the 2smoke 50cc engines are all just clones even the ones that come in those new cheapo SSR 50s
@erixccjc2143I used to get up to 42 mph according to gps. also you gotta run the oil rich if you want any 2 stroke to last a long time you need to run them 24:1 for the first few tanks to break them in that’s 5.3oz of oil in one gallon of gas. Once you’re done breaking it in you should stick to 32:1 that’s 4oz of oil in one gallon of gas a lot of people will run 40:1 or 50:1 that’s 2.6 to 3.2 oz at that point you’re not oiling the engine nearly as much
@@onyxeeveon887 here in europe we can get 50cc's as 15 year olds, so theres a big culture for them A stock 50cc with an exhaust can get up to 50mph (90kmh) and my friend who put a 96cc kit on his euro 3 engine went up to 70mph (120kmh) on the freeway with the both of us in the bike 😭 (its illegal to enter the freeway with a 50cc but bro was overtaking cars)
A guy in soviet russia named Philip Pribyloy did something similar in 1950s and rode his homemade motorcycle to bicycle factory where everyone was amazed by his engine's construction. They gave him finances and workers and his engines and their modifications were produced in russia until late 2000s (D4 - D8 engines), and they're still produced in China (F50 engines)
Actually the D4 engines are very different from the China Girl engines, the Russian engines are tuned to pull strongly from very low RPMs, have a rotary valve and very small carburetor.. The China Girl engine are a copy of the 1960's Japanese Tanaka home market bicycle engine that was used in Keystone's old minibikes in the late 1960's, the only thing that is remotely similar to the D4 engine is the gear reduction and clutch, and that was copied from Tanaka's original in frame bicycle engine design. Some of you are going to say "well that's the Bike Bug engine.." nope Tanaka made a home market, 48 cc bicycle engine that mounted inside the bicycle frame with a manula clutch teh Bike Bug was an adaptation to a friction drive for the front wheel of Tanaka's 21cc tiny outboard for rubber dingys. It had an auto clutch. and was too wide to fit between the pedals of the bicycle frame it's mounted to. Do a Google search for Keystone 2 stroke Minibike, that's the engine the CG engine owes it's design to.
@@tauncfester3022 Keystone engine looks kinda similar, but D4 was made before it with preproduction prototypes dating back to late 1930-s. And also I think D engines are little bit better at high rpm, my D8 tends to accelerate a lot after reaching 20-25km/h. and also, for my D8 i use parts from F50 engines, i dont know what "CG" engine you're talking about, but F50 and F80 are clearly D4 copies
2023: i 3d printed an engine 2024: i made an engine out of hardware store parts 2025: i 3d printed a car for the hardware store engine 2026: i made a car out of hardware store parts
Great project, I love it. I used to make that sort of stuff 50 yrs ago. You have too many friction losses in the gear train. If you make a small pulley on your motor shaft about 75mm to the shape of the tire & run that directly onto the rear wheel you will cut those losses & the gearing will be about right. Also you can peddle to start the engine. That is the way I used to run two stroke lawn mower engines on my bike. was great fun.
Knowing this pissed off an hoa is reason enough for me to love it. That said, there is a reason that not only are most single cylinder engines made of aluminum, but that the fins are cast as part of the case, rather than added later; and it's not just for cost savings.
@@Prem_hall_713 Not knowledgeable about engines but it could be that the heat transfer is better when its one continuous piece of metal compared to multiple pieces soldered together
Man, that's soo cool. It may not look great at first, but let's face it, you've done it! And it works! Which is a lot more than most of the ones who are going to complain and I imagine that the ones who've done it will praise you for getting it done. Amazing, congratulations!
Honestly, this isn't a bad result for a homemade engine. In one or two additional iterations you'll have one that can deliver and handle the torque without blowing itself up.
you have come so far; it's not the time to stop now. you've learned a lot from this project now start over with your current experience and make it better, more reliable and more resilient.
10:52 print the belt hollow. Then pause the print like halfway through. Then insert fishing line (without moving anything). And continue printing. (You can do the same with magnets or hooks or hinges or whatever)
...or buy Gates Poly V belts and pulleys. They use these same belts on gas engine metal cutting saws, a 7mm wide belt can handle up to 5 hp easily. I use one on my scratch built weedeater engined friction drive motored bike.
Here some words from me idk if I’d call it advice but I have been messing with single cylinder engines 2&4 stroke for a while now. Most 2 strokes have a nickel plated cylinder, for a reason. You need to work on your air/fuel mix so you can rev the engine and control RPM’s. You would be wise to make some attempt even if it’s tacky at an expansion pipe. Also a small CVT would be extremely worthwhile in the situation. Your gear setup while fascinating and clever I believe is to much drag on the entire system. Maybe a CVT would be also, I’m not sure, but revving the engine higher is essential. You need more power. Also I commend you for doing this, I’ve always considered it but never attempted it. You’re doing great, keep it up man.
Full billet aluminum cylinder jug and head, you can cut the fins out with a milling machine and bore the cylinder to fit the piston of your choice with proper tolerances 😎
Your welding journey has greatly improved, i'm a 16 year old welder, and I love to see the trial an error, rather than just perfect beads. It shows me reality, instead of frustration when i'm not perfect. I do look up to these videos, hoping one day to make my own Frankenstein abomination! 😆
Fun fact, you CAN use regular solder to solder steel parts together, how do you think they made lanterns waaay back in the day? The main thing with this is you MUST make sure the steel is clean. AKA no rust, no oils, and you'll need to use some acid to take off the very tiny layer of oxidation it naturally has from just being exposed to the air. I know this works because I've had to do it before and my father is the one whom taught me. We had to do it on an antique lantern I own that had an old seam on the tank start actively weeping whenever any fuel was put into it. (for the acid just make sure you're in a well ventilated space with a fan gently blowing air on and past you so as to blow the acid fumes away)
@@iiisaac1312 Normally, the temperatures of the outside of the cylinder and head of an air-cooled engine should remain below the melting temperatures of even a Sn 40 Pb 60 alloy, but in the case of a very hot engine the margin would not be huge and at temperatures close to the melting temperatures the mechanical strength might not be optimal. A lead-free alloy, which has a somewhat higher melting temperature, might be more suitable
@@iiisaac1312 Good question, theoretically it could if it goes above the melting temperature of the solder you use since they can have different melting temperatures. This temperature is all dependent on the alloy of the solder and the brand (alloy especially). Heck the special solder he used could even potentially melt depending on the temperature the engine gets to and the alloy the solder is. (I'm sorry this answer isn't a simple yes or no)
@@fallingwater Muriatic acid can be gotten at various hardware stores and is what my father and I used for soldering the tank on my lantern. Now keep in mind that the fumes can be toxic and you should be in a well ventilated area (outside preferably) and have a very light breeze blowing on you from a fan at a distance. For applying the acid you can get Acid Brushes from a place like Harbor Freight or Lowes and all you do is gently dip the brush into the acid, you don't need much, then you gently brush the acid onto the spot you are looking to solder. When you're working on this you should have a cup of water on hand for dipping the brush into as well as some baking soda for being able to neutralize acid in case you spill some. It works well but can be nasty if not treated with respect.
Good luck on making a new engine, you're actually starting to get pretty good at making these homebrew engines, and your welding is getting much better, great job.
Maybe I know what the problem is You should reconsider the ignition, namely the moment of ignition. It should be 2-3 millimeters after the top dead center, then the engine power will be at the right time. It is also possible that you put piston rings with incorrect lock spread It's like a couple of thoughts from me Good luck with the project👍😁
Incorrect, the timing needs to be adjusted BEFORE TDC. Gives the mixture enough time to fully combust right as it reaches peak cylinder pressure. Retarding the timing will only make less power.
My man is doing r&d the good ol way, by building and testing over and over but he kinda is getting good at it, it ran for a lot and pushed you forward so it is amazing man
Hi Camden! Let the crankshaft drive the wheel directly by friction between shaftend and tire. Easiest way to do it. For clutch use a movable motormount. Best place is on top of the rear wheel. Provides the necessary "gearing" without all the belts and pulleys. Been there done that and it works fine :) Good luck from Germany
thumb throttle is much smarter than twist throttle. Especially on anything experimental. Added that to my 319cc pocket bike for safety reasons when realizing the twist throttle is a safety issue.
Feels like im watching a video from the 19th century when they were first starting to make bikes. Keep up the good work looking forward to see the progress
Impressive work. When the fuel tank on the bike made its appearance😂. Just the contrast between all the ingenuity, work, time in the motor, and a water bottle fuel tank is great👍.
I had a great time watching this, it reminds me of 18 year ago when I build my first chainsaw powered bike ! Keep on learning by yourself, you're gonna go far !
This reminds me of old soviet bicycle engines (like the krasniy oktyabir d4) these engines werent just made by soviets, but basically every country in the 1950s cuz they were a cheap way of motorized transportation. Some examples are the hungarian dongó, which is based on the italian mosquito garelli, the french la poulain and terrot serwa, the polish malcherek and the german m.a.w
My thoughts exactly, having owned a D8 equipped Soviet motorized bike called "Кроха" ("Teensy", it was a little one indeed) hearing the sound unlocked all the memories.
the main problem is that you don't gain normal revs on this engine. a two-stroke engine likes high revs, and yours, judging by the sound, barely gains two or three thousand, which is very little for it. try again, but you need to rev the engine hard. listen to how the scooter sounds, and you'll understand everything
2 stroke don't have to rev high and usually rev lower than 4 strokes (as long as we are not talking about high performance engines). Also high revs put lots of stresson every part, so it might break down even faster.
You should definitely look into the physics of 2-stroke motors. The reason for the mufflers ballooning then constricting is to help with proper combustion. Check out Big Time's most recent video for better understanding.
Who builds their own engine, puts it into a bike and it worked? Not many I know of. Well done. Keep it up. Things will only improve as you lean what works and what does not. The fact alone you built your own engine is impressive.
Really big cylinder was the solution way back in the day I think the Benz patent motorwagon was like a liter displacement and less than 1 hp and that was more or less the first "car"
this engine does not utilize its crank case for added compression, so alot of the compression is lost in higher engine speeds. this is because when not utilizing the crank case, it is unable to get all the exhaust gasses out of the combustion chamber. This also makes it more likely for the engine to ruminate fuel shooting back into the intake causing a wrong mixture.
I love these series! Because it washes away this perception of mine, that ICE's could only be made with top tier tools and knowledge. And here you are, making them from whatever you could find and they WORK despite everything! Can't wait for new videos! ❤
0:56 Imagine you were the bike longing for him to give you the tender loving car you deserve only for you to be turned into a 2-stroke engine test bench
It sounds just like a proper old 2 stroke dirt bike from the 70's and the TPU belt is awesome i have never thought about using TPU for anything like that.
Hat's off to your first build knowing it only gets better for your second build, after watching this all I could hear from that small powerless engine was "all aboard" ironically it hasn't got enough power to push that bike but carried more views than a semi truck driver gets doing a vlog, good luck on your future builds bro .🎉
or in the Netherlands (or other countries where biking is a regular method of transport), just a bike, since it is easier to swing your leg over and bikes are just a usual method of transport so convenience is important
The exhaust pipe is very important for a 2 stroke, you make more power with drawing fresh mixture into the exhaust and push back in when the intake port is closed.
Lol. I have an '86 spree in the shed that needs a new clutch (and body panels, seat). Everytime I consider working on it I just think, you know it's not really worth it. Even mint they're kinda garbage.
5:58 Well you bought a female bike for female humans. Strait pipe is a male bike for male humans. So you should buy a male bike so that you wouldn't need any cutting.
Currently you're putting all the weight on the motors if you do that they can't spin as they're supposed to, if you add proper suspension it helps lift your weight thus helping the motors push the ground away from under you.
about the struggle to get the crank arm off, you need a tool called a crank puller. It threads into the crank and pushes on the square taper spindle to slowly pull it off. There is no way to get it off without it
if you ever plan on building anything from sheet metal, get a makita js1660 or similar sheet metal shear. its a dream. it doesnt twist your workpiece on either side of the cut very much at all because it just cuts out a strip in the middle and it leaves a very nice finish on the edge that just needs minimal deburring with a file, a couple strokes at most
Quick thought about printing belts: you could serpentine the belt so it fits on the build plate of the faster printer. Don't know how you'd make sure the length is correct though... I'm not a big 3D CAD guy.
most macgyvers: I added ducktape Camden: so I added some fishing line
2 месяца назад
Usually there is a integrated generator instead of a whole battery. It generates enough for the ignition to work, and even in some cases there is enough for some headlights etc.
You need to use flux when soldering big stuff like this, flux core solder isn't going to cut it. You can see that the solder wasn't wetting the metal very well. Also the cylinder head needs much more cooling than than the cylinder, if you look at a conventional two stroke with a separate head you'll usually find they have bigger and/or more fins than the cylinder.
I'm a bike mechanic by trade and have been unemployed for almost a year. When I saw the condition that bike was in, I was instantly overcome by a voice that screamed "Please let me back in the shop, please man, I've gotta work on that bike man, I've gotta fix it up, please man"
calculate intake port, and exhaust port, make piston window, and crankshaft transfer port. And correct expansion pipe would do huge diffrence in performance.
Cool custom v belt, but you can get v belts for a pretty reasonable price in a bunch of different sizes from McMaster-Carr. The v-belts sold by manufacturers for specific applications always cost more than the regular off-the-shelf ones.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Replacing the spark plug and adjusting the carb before checking if you got gas is the true engineer move
it made me remember my time in the Formula SAE team
i spent like 2 days of pulling a little 212cc before checking the fuel line....
i know whats wrong with it, it aint got no gas in it
i spend 6 hours trying to figure out why my bike won't run till i remember that 1 time i remove the fuel filter and spill out all the fuel😂
777th like
Honestly, its genuinely impressive that you built a motor that moved the bike at all. Even the 50cc motors from ebay kits have trouble fully propelling a bike, and usually don't last much longer than your engine does. 100/10 badass execution of "know-how"
Those ebay engines are a complete scam, just take the engine out of a real 50cc bike and try to adapt it
@erixccjc2143 not all of them are garbage, people just don't wanna spend the money for the real manufacturers and get the cheapest kit they can find. I know someone that has gotten 500miles out of an ebay 50, i know someone thats gone through 3 of them, one of them bought legit, one shopped low to high. Also most of the 2smoke 50cc engines are all just clones even the ones that come in those new cheapo SSR 50s
the 66cc that they sell as 50's are fine get otta here
@erixccjc2143I used to get up to 42 mph according to gps. also you gotta run the oil rich if you want any 2 stroke to last a long time you need to run them 24:1 for the first few tanks to break them in that’s 5.3oz of oil in one gallon of gas. Once you’re done breaking it in you should stick to 32:1 that’s 4oz of oil in one gallon of gas a lot of people will run 40:1 or 50:1 that’s 2.6 to 3.2 oz at that point you’re not oiling the engine nearly as much
@@onyxeeveon887 here in europe we can get 50cc's as 15 year olds, so theres a big culture for them
A stock 50cc with an exhaust can get up to 50mph (90kmh) and my friend who put a 96cc kit on his euro 3 engine went up to 70mph (120kmh) on the freeway with the both of us in the bike 😭 (its illegal to enter the freeway with a 50cc but bro was overtaking cars)
"It run fine before I took it apart."I feel you.
Haha so true
Haha so funny so true😂😂
Never Change a running system 😂
Amen brudder
I kind of have the opposite problem it doesn’t run and then I take it apart aannnd it still doesn’t run.
A guy in soviet russia named Philip Pribyloy did something similar in 1950s and rode his homemade motorcycle to bicycle factory where everyone was amazed by his engine's construction. They gave him finances and workers and his engines and their modifications were produced in russia until late 2000s (D4 - D8 engines), and they're still produced in China (F50 engines)
Actually the D4 engines are very different from the China Girl engines, the Russian engines are tuned to pull strongly from very low RPMs, have a rotary valve and very small carburetor..
The China Girl engine are a copy of the 1960's Japanese Tanaka home market bicycle engine that was used in Keystone's old minibikes in the late 1960's, the only thing that is remotely similar to the D4 engine is the gear reduction and clutch, and that was copied from Tanaka's original in frame bicycle engine design.
Some of you are going to say "well that's the Bike Bug engine.." nope Tanaka made a home market, 48 cc bicycle engine that mounted inside the bicycle frame with a manula clutch teh Bike Bug was an adaptation to a friction drive for the front wheel of Tanaka's 21cc tiny outboard for rubber dingys. It had an auto clutch. and was too wide to fit between the pedals of the bicycle frame it's mounted to. Do a Google search for Keystone 2 stroke Minibike, that's the engine the CG engine owes it's design to.
@@tauncfester3022 Keystone engine looks kinda similar, but D4 was made before it with preproduction prototypes dating back to late 1930-s. And also I think D engines are little bit better at high rpm, my D8 tends to accelerate a lot after reaching 20-25km/h.
and also, for my D8 i use parts from F50 engines, i dont know what "CG" engine you're talking about, but F50 and F80 are clearly D4 copies
2023: i 3d printed an engine
2024: i made an engine out of hardware store parts
2025: i 3d printed a car for the hardware store engine
2026: i made a car out of hardware store parts
2027: i made a hardware store out of 3D printed parts
@@Collywood-Studios 2028 i made a hardware store out of hardware store parts
2029 i 3d printed a space station filled with a 3d printed hardware store, car, and spare engine
@@mikeyking7530 2030: I 3D printed a new planet to replace the dying earth.
@@Collywood-Studios 2031: I made a new planet out of hardware store parts to replace the dying 3d printed planet
Great project, I love it. I used to make that sort of stuff 50 yrs ago. You have too many friction losses in the gear train. If you make a small pulley on your motor shaft about 75mm to the shape of the tire & run that directly onto the rear wheel you will cut those losses & the gearing will be about right. Also you can peddle to start the engine. That is the way I used to run two stroke lawn mower engines on my bike. was great fun.
Knowing this pissed off an hoa is reason enough for me to love it. That said, there is a reason that not only are most single cylinder engines made of aluminum, but that the fins are cast as part of the case, rather than added later; and it's not just for cost savings.
@@hellcat1988 ayyy! Fellow sentient car!
@@Deinoguy Actually I adopted the name from the Grumman F6F.
Is it related to warping?
@@hellcat1988 Oh, that's a cool warbird. Heheh.
@@Prem_hall_713 Not knowledgeable about engines but it could be that the heat transfer is better when its one continuous piece of metal compared to multiple pieces soldered together
Man, that's soo cool. It may not look great at first, but let's face it, you've done it! And it works! Which is a lot more than most of the ones who are going to complain and I imagine that the ones who've done it will praise you for getting it done. Amazing, congratulations!
Honestly, this isn't a bad result for a homemade engine. In one or two additional iterations you'll have one that can deliver and handle the torque without blowing itself up.
There’s a guy that home built a scale V12 engine and put it in an RC car. Completely 1 of 1
you have come so far; it's not the time to stop now. you've learned a lot from this project now start over with your current experience and make it better, more reliable and more resilient.
10:52 print the belt hollow. Then pause the print like halfway through. Then insert fishing line (without moving anything). And continue printing. (You can do the same with magnets or hooks or hinges or whatever)
You’d have to be real quick though before the tpg gets too cold and the layers don’t stick together properly
Came to say this @@feelincrispy7053
@@feelincrispy7053 tbf he could just weld them together like he did in the vid
...or buy Gates Poly V belts and pulleys. They use these same belts on gas engine metal cutting saws, a 7mm wide belt can handle up to 5 hp easily. I use one on my scratch built weedeater engined friction drive motored bike.
If the bed gets to cold the print is going to lift up or he can jyst use hairspray
Here some words from me idk if I’d call it advice but I have been messing with single cylinder engines 2&4 stroke for a while now. Most 2 strokes have a nickel plated cylinder, for a reason. You need to work on your air/fuel mix so you can rev the engine and control RPM’s. You would be wise to make some attempt even if it’s tacky at an expansion pipe. Also a small CVT would be extremely worthwhile in the situation. Your gear setup while fascinating and clever I believe is to much drag on the entire system. Maybe a CVT would be also, I’m not sure, but revving the engine higher is essential. You need more power. Also I commend you for doing this, I’ve always considered it but never attempted it. You’re doing great, keep it up man.
Today I learned what a step through bike was
lol
step through frame. a bike is a bike
@@StanleyKubick1 thank you for your pedantry
i still don't know what ligma is
@@manitoba-op4jx real
9:42
"I mean, ive done it in the past to replace a belt on my drill press, and its still doing alright."
*"AAAAAAHHHHHHSSSFWIIIHHHHHHHHHSFWIIIHHHHH"*
my fav yt series
fr😂❤
That is honestly astounding for an engine primarily made out of hardware store junk. Incredible work, keep it up!
This is the second time this week I’ve seen a created print something you’d usually pay 50 dollars for out of TPU, and it actually worked.
Full billet aluminum cylinder jug and head, you can cut the fins out with a milling machine and bore the cylinder to fit the piston of your choice with proper tolerances 😎
'Soldering's gonna be fine'
It's a bold plan, Cotton. Let's see how it plays out.
Yea 😂
Is it just me or.does this guys say saudering instead of soldering
@@br-sb6vu That's how they pronounce it there wee laddy
@@vt7082 lol
Your welding journey has greatly improved, i'm a 16 year old welder, and I love to see the trial an error, rather than just perfect beads. It shows me reality, instead of frustration when i'm not perfect. I do look up to these videos, hoping one day to make my own Frankenstein abomination! 😆
Fun fact, you CAN use regular solder to solder steel parts together, how do you think they made lanterns waaay back in the day? The main thing with this is you MUST make sure the steel is clean. AKA no rust, no oils, and you'll need to use some acid to take off the very tiny layer of oxidation it naturally has from just being exposed to the air. I know this works because I've had to do it before and my father is the one whom taught me. We had to do it on an antique lantern I own that had an old seam on the tank start actively weeping whenever any fuel was put into it. (for the acid just make sure you're in a well ventilated space with a fan gently blowing air on and past you so as to blow the acid fumes away)
Will regular solder melt under the heat of the engine?
@@iiisaac1312 Normally, the temperatures of the outside of the cylinder and head of an air-cooled engine should remain below the melting temperatures of even a Sn 40 Pb 60 alloy, but in the case of a very hot engine the margin would not be huge and at temperatures close to the melting temperatures the mechanical strength might not be optimal. A lead-free alloy, which has a somewhat higher melting temperature, might be more suitable
@@iiisaac1312 Good question, theoretically it could if it goes above the melting temperature of the solder you use since they can have different melting temperatures. This temperature is all dependent on the alloy of the solder and the brand (alloy especially). Heck the special solder he used could even potentially melt depending on the temperature the engine gets to and the alloy the solder is. (I'm sorry this answer isn't a simple yes or no)
What would you use as acid? Are we talking vinegar, or stuff you need to source specifically from a chem supplier?
@@fallingwater Muriatic acid can be gotten at various hardware stores and is what my father and I used for soldering the tank on my lantern. Now keep in mind that the fumes can be toxic and you should be in a well ventilated area (outside preferably) and have a very light breeze blowing on you from a fan at a distance. For applying the acid you can get Acid Brushes from a place like Harbor Freight or Lowes and all you do is gently dip the brush into the acid, you don't need much, then you gently brush the acid onto the spot you are looking to solder. When you're working on this you should have a cup of water on hand for dipping the brush into as well as some baking soda for being able to neutralize acid in case you spill some. It works well but can be nasty if not treated with respect.
6:18 is a women's bike... That's why the tube is there
Good luck on making a new engine, you're actually starting to get pretty good at making these homebrew engines, and your welding is getting much better, great job.
Thank you :)
Maybe I know what the problem is
You should reconsider the ignition, namely the moment of ignition. It should be 2-3 millimeters after the top dead center, then the engine power will be at the right time. It is also possible that you put piston rings with incorrect lock spread
It's like a couple of thoughts from me
Good luck with the project👍😁
Incorrect, the timing needs to be adjusted BEFORE TDC. Gives the mixture enough time to fully combust right as it reaches peak cylinder pressure. Retarding the timing will only make less power.
My man is doing r&d the good ol way, by building and testing over and over but he kinda is getting good at it, it ran for a lot and pushed you forward so it is amazing man
You are like a modern day Glenn Curtis here. You remind me of myself when I was younger, when I spent a few years reinventing the Chinese firecracker.
Hi Camden! Let the crankshaft drive the wheel directly by friction between shaftend and tire. Easiest way to do it. For clutch use a movable motormount. Best place is on top of the rear wheel. Provides the necessary "gearing" without all the belts and pulleys. Been there done that and it works fine :)
Good luck from Germany
The fun part is that drill you used to start it got more torque and power and would be better to run a bike 😅
(I know, that's not about it)
thumb throttle is much smarter than twist throttle. Especially on anything experimental. Added that to my 319cc pocket bike for safety reasons when realizing the twist throttle is a safety issue.
Feels like im watching a video from the 19th century when they were first starting to make bikes. Keep up the good work looking forward to see the progress
Impressive work.
When the fuel tank on the bike made its appearance😂. Just the contrast between all the ingenuity, work, time in the motor, and a water bottle fuel tank is great👍.
I had a great time watching this, it reminds me of 18 year ago when I build my first chainsaw powered bike ! Keep on learning by yourself, you're gonna go far !
This reminds me of old soviet bicycle engines (like the krasniy oktyabir d4) these engines werent just made by soviets, but basically every country in the 1950s cuz they were a cheap way of motorized transportation. Some examples are the hungarian dongó, which is based on the italian mosquito garelli, the french la poulain and terrot serwa, the polish malcherek and the german m.a.w
Simson Schwalbe (DDR Bike) and other Simsons have a two stroke too :3
@knallerbserich oh yeah those mopeds, they were popular in hungary too. Their engines were legendarily good.
@@palcube2467 yes they are nearly indestructable :)
My thoughts exactly, having owned a D8 equipped Soviet motorized bike called "Кроха" ("Teensy", it was a little one indeed) hearing the sound unlocked all the memories.
Ducati came out with a motor kit for bikes after world War 2. Before that they used to make radios!
properly soldering sould help, too. Cleaning, pickleing, and adding flux? plus, maybe heating the metal instead of the solder?
the main problem is that you don't gain normal revs on this engine. a two-stroke engine likes high revs, and yours, judging by the sound, barely gains two or three thousand, which is very little for it. try again, but you need to rev the engine hard. listen to how the scooter sounds, and you'll understand everything
Think the issue is the friction and the compression seems really high. Then some tuning on carb should give most of the rest.
Yeah that idle is WAAAAY too low for a two stroke engine
2 stroke don't have to rev high and usually rev lower than 4 strokes (as long as we are not talking about high performance engines). Also high revs put lots of stresson every part, so it might break down even faster.
@@florianvelling64274t more revs than 2t? 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@Hamaglanever heard of sport bikes? And 4-stroke Motocross with their high revving?
This series is way cool. Awesome to see the engineering process at play. Keep going!
Thanks dude!
“It ain’t got no gas in it”- Karl Childers
Yesterday me and my friends were discussing how hard it is to build an engine from scratch , im sending him this , thanks for this video 🎉
Aren't exposed battery contacts going to fry your balls?
only if you sweat enough
It's only 12V.
@@trentbikesyoo😂
@@CamdenBowen don't get too excited then and you'll be fine
No, theres not enough voltage or current in there to actually get through your balls even if they touched both contacts for some reason
You should definitely look into the physics of 2-stroke motors. The reason for the mufflers ballooning then constricting is to help with proper combustion. Check out Big Time's most recent video for better understanding.
Man I hope you end up making a go kart
Who builds their own engine, puts it into a bike and it worked? Not many I know of. Well done. Keep it up. Things will only improve as you lean what works and what does not. The fact alone you built your own engine is impressive.
The true answer is always an expansion chamber, or just more cylinders
i mean, there's also just bigger cylinders
Really big cylinder was the solution way back in the day I think the Benz patent motorwagon was like a liter displacement and less than 1 hp and that was more or less the first "car"
this engine does not utilize its crank case for added compression, so alot of the compression is lost in higher engine speeds. this is because when not utilizing the crank case, it is unable to get all the exhaust gasses out of the combustion chamber.
This also makes it more likely for the engine to ruminate fuel shooting back into the intake causing a wrong mixture.
An expansion chamber would really help lot
@@jerem4068 Not really. 15-20% at best, and that is only in a very narrow RPM range.
This is such a cool project and probably my favorite 2 videos on the internet. Can't wait for the 3rd one
I love these series!
Because it washes away this perception of mine,
that ICE's could only be made with top tier tools and knowledge.
And here you are, making them from whatever you could find and they WORK despite everything!
Can't wait for new videos! ❤
A good efficient ICE can only be made with top tier tools and knowledge
@@alexstromberg7696 Didn't mention "good efficient" :)
Tho i agree
I really Respect the amount of time and effort you put into your videos! Fantastic jobb man and keep going I believe in you!
0:56 Imagine you were the bike longing for him to give you the tender loving car you deserve only for you to be turned into a 2-stroke engine test bench
It sounds just like a proper old 2 stroke dirt bike from the 70's and the TPU belt is awesome i have never thought about using TPU for anything like that.
7:40 "as long it doesn't explode, we should be good"
Dude, your videos are fantastic. Im so keen to see what you do in future.
Thanks dude!
16:05 Last time i've seen such loud silent rage, SSoHPKC misplaced his last glass block and fumbled a perfectly good window
mentioning seamus in 2024 is wild
6:59 this is such a simple but efficient solution to mounting. Love it
I check every day if there is a new video, even though I am subscribed to you anyway🎉🎉
Hat's off to your first build knowing it only gets better for your second build, after watching this all I could hear from that small powerless engine was "all aboard" ironically it hasn't got enough power to push that bike but carried more views than a semi truck driver gets doing a vlog, good luck on your future builds bro .🎉
Thansk for new episode❤❤
cant wait for the next video in 3 months!!! love these builds so much
I’ve been waiting to see this second I saw it I was shaking
Very underrated RUclipsr. Not even 200k??? I cry for you😭
~I’m a subscribed fan👍🏼
5:54 that's because that's a woman's bike. Traditionally they put the bar lower so they can ride with a skirt.
or in the Netherlands (or other countries where biking is a regular method of transport), just a bike, since it is easier to swing your leg over and bikes are just a usual method of transport so convenience is important
Camden-Your metalworking skills are supreme! Great video and commentary also!:)-John in Texas
bro made most normal vehicle in cambodia
This must be the sketchiest channel on youtube. I love it
CAST YOUR NEW ENGINEEEEEEEEE!!!!!
Looks like you should charge the HOA for insect spraying
The exhaust pipe is very important for a 2 stroke, you make more power with drawing fresh mixture into the exhaust and push back in when the intake port is closed.
14:47 poor thing
Smoking like a grandma
I feel bad for both the drill and the engine
My video buffered and when I look at the comments I see it buffered at the exact time you said
I find it funny how this homemade bike is both faster and runs better than my Honda Spree. I find this insane. 😂 Amazing work.
Lol. I have an '86 spree in the shed that needs a new clutch (and body panels, seat). Everytime I consider working on it I just think, you know it's not really worth it. Even mint they're kinda garbage.
11:22 - dude got that 1 Nm engine
KQJQKQJQKQJQKQJQKQKQ the most right comment
how could you be so great at making everything, engines, solders, videos and jokes
ayy 13:20 your from Ontario to!! You should probably blur your plate.
"this bike will be perfect"
"The engine wont fit on the bike."
lmao i love your videos
5:58 Well you bought a female bike for female humans. Strait pipe is a male bike for male humans. So you should buy a male bike so that you wouldn't need any cutting.
😆 Ya beat me to it
his voice sounds like the typa dad who says "I'm not angry, i'm just dissapointed."
@1:50 you need a plasma cutter.
Currently you're putting all the weight on the motors if you do that they can't spin as they're supposed to, if you add proper suspension it helps lift your weight thus helping the motors push the ground away from under you.
love your efforts into mechanics; keep on keeping on brother.
I love your narration by the way haha it's great. Keep making content!
about the struggle to get the crank arm off, you need a tool called a crank puller. It threads into the crank and pushes on the square taper spindle to slowly pull it off. There is no way to get it off without it
if you ever plan on building anything from sheet metal, get a makita js1660 or similar sheet metal shear. its a dream. it doesnt twist your workpiece on either side of the cut very much at all because it just cuts out a strip in the middle and it leaves a very nice finish on the edge that just needs minimal deburring with a file, a couple strokes at most
Quick thought about printing belts: you could serpentine the belt so it fits on the build plate of the faster printer. Don't know how you'd make sure the length is correct though... I'm not a big 3D CAD guy.
bro is a NECESSITY in a zombie apocalypse.
This is slowly turning into ‘We have Two Stroke Stuffing at home’ lmao I love it
Your voice sounds like the 'How To Pick Up a Duck' guy's but deeper
I love this series so much, please keep going!
Great video, you should try put the motor into a weedwacker Lol, or make one from local hardware store, like the rest of your motor
An exhaust is very important on a two-stroke. I just watched a big long video about it how it uses sound to optimise the fresh fuel coming in.
most macgyvers: I added ducktape
Camden: so I added some fishing line
Usually there is a integrated generator instead of a whole battery. It generates enough for the ignition to work, and even in some cases there is enough for some headlights etc.
Gloves man! That angle grinder is no joke. Love your video.
You're my hero for going this far with it.
The bike wasn't COMPLETELY FINISHED, it was FINISHED COMPLETELY
You need to use flux when soldering big stuff like this, flux core solder isn't going to cut it. You can see that the solder wasn't wetting the metal very well. Also the cylinder head needs much more cooling than than the cylinder, if you look at a conventional two stroke with a separate head you'll usually find they have bigger and/or more fins than the cylinder.
I'm a bike mechanic by trade and have been unemployed for almost a year. When I saw the condition that bike was in, I was instantly overcome by a voice that screamed "Please let me back in the shop, please man, I've gotta work on that bike man, I've gotta fix it up, please man"
I cant beleive ive kept up with this serise, i love these videos!!
I love how close it resembles an early motorbike from the 1910-20s era of automotive innovation
calculate intake port, and exhaust port, make piston window, and crankshaft transfer port. And correct expansion pipe would do huge diffrence in performance.
your soldering technique still causes me immense physical pain
10/10
Keep going man your Videos are awsome
I love your amazing work you deserve at least a million subs for your time and suffering
Cool custom v belt, but you can get v belts for a pretty reasonable price in a bunch of different sizes from McMaster-Carr. The v-belts sold by manufacturers for specific applications always cost more than the regular off-the-shelf ones.