I really love the fact that this project uses some of the most high-tech production methods and some of the most low-tech engineering (like some chicken wire etc.) to produce something that is already existing for over a hundred years. Not bashing on it though because I genuinely love it and have great respect for your commitment to it
For making prints watertight, I print with ABS and then vapor smooth them by heating a tub of acetone in an enclosure with the prints. Makes a really smooth surface and doesn't cost much at all.
I got even PLA prints completely watertight by increasing print temperature and reducing print speed and part cooling. With a bit of experimenting it held 2 bar of pressure no problem.
It's actually good that you didn't resize the whole with a dremel. The chances of it remaining round are very low and those threads you made are possibly the best you could have made because of the amount of material remaining. Do a quick test of a tight hole and a more sloppy hole and then add threads. The sloppy one will feel sleepy with a bolt in it and the tight one will feel tighter. Now measure the amount of strength you need to strip the threads and I bet you 1 kiss that the sloppy hole will strip out much quicker and than the tight one. Yes I did write Whole instead of hole, no I won't fix it and yes I will blame autocorrect.
The reamer tool is the best choice! Someone already mentioned it. It's specifically designed for slightly widening holes to specific sizes. While they should be done on a mill for the best results, I've used them on drills just fine. They have a long stalk, which means that they naturally flex slightly to center themselves in the pre-existing hole.
Given the available tools, using the tap gently as a drill probably gave the best results possible. It would have been very easy to knacker the whole with a dremmel.
I've always been interested with the properties of metal 3d printed parts so this is an awesome vid for me, awesome work dude. Btw, for making solid (water-tight) 3d printed plastic pieces, there is a method but it's a bit time consuming. It's called salt remelting, it requires that you print the part at 100% infill, then submerge it fully in salt, ideally as fine as you can make it, then you put the whole thing into the oven at just beyond the plastic's plasticity point (depends on your specific plastic, I think PLA works at about 200C) for a while, then letting it cool. The idea being that the salt prevents the part from warping or moving, and the slight remelt allows the plastic to bond together better between the layers, creating better water/air sealing, it also improves the shear strength perpendicular to the layer lines.
I wonder if an acetone vapor bath would have similar effects. That tends to melt the outer layers to give a smoothing effect, but it should be able to make things more water tight if left for a little longer.
Designing and building an engine with such mix/match homemade and even with pro help with materials from PCB way is a very impressive feat. Can't wait till I see what you do next. Great job.
@@scottanderson6309 Who is shilling? I only mentioned PCB way because those are the parts he was unable to make himself, even though he designed the parts they made.
He's probably going to need a proper fueling system and some compression rings, it seems to run very lean and probably gets a lot of blowby through the rubber ring.
This is exactly why I am glad I was a child in the 80's. We tried making these things without 3D printing as there was none. Now, I don't really mean we would try and make our own engines, but we certainly made cannons that used gun powder, crossbows that could almost kill, and used gasoline for just about every thing we shouldn't. Watching this series has made me smile as I know that most of the time you are praying you don't get a face full of metal and plastic, lol. Awesome!
Really pleased that you managed to get it to run this well! Loved following this series of videos and your other projects. Looking forward to what comes next!
What a good video to start off the new year! That tapping sequence was sooooo hectic! I liked those tapping and welding shots you did throughout the building sequence 'Let me show you on my computer' was such a good gag too! I love the little dipstick you added to the oil fill port's screw, and the screw itself is a good addition I think ;D
with how well the engine is running I suggest somehow making some kind of crankcase vent so it can breathe rather that will be in the oil cap or somewhere else also maybe valvetrain lubrication would be cool to keep it up!
This channel is my go to when trying to learn simple ways to machine complex parts in a simple garage shop. I never thought making some of these machines features would be possible at home. That lapping paste is genius.
There is so much you can do to make this even more amazing. Adding in a some timing featurs. Maybe an actual cooling system. Throttle cable. Fuel pump. This could become a full running working engine that you made at home and that would be an incredible feat of engineering. You got a follow from me for this one. Awesome work man. Can't wait to see what other cool things you do
I was hoping you were going to revisit this but casting the parts using the plastic parts to create the molds. I want to build a 1/4 scale V8 this way. There is an LS V8 that is already done for 3D printing
Alot of weed eater engines use the same method of making a crankshaft as you did! They compensate for the wait by welding three plates on each of the crank journal to add extra weight. It's really cool because out of all the weed eater crankshafts I've seen now I kind of get how they're made
I think the issue you had with the first pump was actually something to do with priming rather than flow rate but the second pump was definitely the right choice.
The way you get things to works with a series of hacks, combined with your complete disregard for safety is very relatable to me as a brazilian, great job getting the engine to work 👍.
I think I’ve said it before, but I think this video demonstrates the need again, I’d love to see you build a lathe using printing for as much as possible.
Maybe lathe for wood and other soft material. For metals, I'd say it's a no no. If you're familiar with Uri Tuchman, he once tried making a mini lathe for brass, IIRC, and it didn't go very well unfortunately... :(
@@rizalardiansyah4486 Yeah, Uri's the man. I hated to see how his ultimately failed. I don't think a 100% printed lathe would work/be useful, but I think a lathe using a lot of printed parts, like pulleys and such, is perfectly doable. I think for aluminum and softer, a CNC lathe would be pretty easy to cook up from off the shelf (Amazon) components.
One thing I think I should’ve suggested a little while ago, would’ve been going with a flathead engine. If you went with a flathead engine, you could’ve just used a chunk of steel pipe for the cylinder sleeve and then welded a piece of flat bar with a whole drilled out for the cylinder sleeve, and two for the valves on top of it. Then 3-D printed head would work for probably a minute or two. Also, that would give you the ability to put an acrylic head on there and see it working with a clear head. I think that’s what I’m going to do with my engine, but as of right now I’m in Florida, so I can’t. Really love your channel and your videos! Keep up the great work!
When you're hand-lapping valves, i highly recommend using a bright light to see whether you've achieved full seal. I work in an old-school machine shop, and i've been taught to check valves with a light first, before we even pulled a vacuum through
I am so glad to see you have taken what you've learned from the past and turned it into such a success, its really cool to see the engine you built run for so long
I love this video! It's a combination of hilarious and totally intriguing. I love your curiosity and getting your own firsthand knowledge by testing all of these elements. This was really fun
u have inspired me. I am currently designing a compressed engine with self actuating VVT. basically copying you but I need to start somewhere. awesome vid dude.
Yeah, it honestly literally sounds like its getting too little fuel. I have a briggs and stratron engine that I have worked on, and it keeps on stallling out like your engine does. And it turned out to just be a throttle problem by not letting in enough fuel. Ps, awsome video!!!!😃 Also, I know this might not be a very good idea but what if you add a fuel pump on the fuel line to help with it's low amount of fuel withdraw...
Looks like your having fun experimenting with internal combustion in your garage. I noticed you mentioning a "go cart" and an old lawnmower. "Old lawnmower" engine is a good starting point. What you have learned with cad/cam might help, but the old lawnmover engine will also help. There are fundamental concepts in the old lawn mower engine.
The engine is probably dying because when combustion happens, it's warming the plastic of the cylinder walls faster than the metal piston. They expand at different rates and you lose compression. On a conventional engine you can tell when this happens because the engine begins to race (choke has caused a rich condition, warming cylinder walls increases fuel vaporization). It's also why you can't properly measure compression on a cold engine. You can probably start it without the propane if you just use a choke, as well. Awesome project and I'm loving watching along, good luck on whatever you do next!
Dude, you don't know how excited I am to see this thing run. Been checking the channel every other day for the video. Also, the rubber compression ring will probably never fail you. Seen a video by garage54 where they used a rubber compression ring on a real lada engine and it was impossible to melt.
See, your mane is getting longer and it's looking better. Keep it growing, it will be worth it in the end trust me mine has been long for 15yrs and I won't go back. It's nice to see people still experimenting and building things rather than sitting on Instagram.
Dude you are so close to making that thing actually idle, ive been watching this since day one and im 100% confident youll get her running good one day. Keep at it youre doing an awesome job!
i cant believe every thing you done is all what not to do, but it was fun watching you try, and it almost worked, Those metal parts came out nice looking forward to an update video of this project working
Finally! I was waiting for the 3d printed metal engine! Ive been watching this project since the original, and im not disappointed. Cant wait for the other ones 👀
It's amazing what you could do with 3d printing. Also I love that your videos are more down to earth and isn't everything perfect or your have everything perfectly calculated beforehand
The reason it kept stalling is because the o ring was getting warm from all the blow by, throw a set of piston rings on it and make the bottom end case stronger, design it like a motorcycle case where it's split in the middle and not half way, that will let you have a stronger bottom end and less oil leaks!
OMG why haven't I bumped into your channel earlier??? I used to work on 2 strokes engines in the late 80's, back then we were tweaking what we had to work with, and the process was fascinating. What you are making here is the most bananas thing I've seen and I'm loving it! As I watch you try new things I'm "this can't work", but when you figure it out it's like "I knew he could come up with a solution" :D Thank you for sharing this 🙏🏼
holy shit, dude... i was already laughing pretty good when you 'sent off the package', but i wheezed and crylaughed so hard when you showed us what you were talking about with the piston on your computer. so amazing. thank you lol
love your video, just be careful! that flywheel can easily hurt you, I have seen someone lost a leg with his flywheel project just be careful man and Happy new year
They have taper taps and tap magic to make it easier. Also the tap handles have countersink in the back so you can hold it straight with a center. Most common tool a home maker would have is a drill press and vise to do it that way
This is one of my favourite 3D printing projects. It's really interesting seeing which components can survive being plastic and which ones need to be upgraded to metal.
I've made airtight vaccum sensors on a cheap fdm 3d printer.... ABS + acetone vapour melts it together. Also solid infill. Dimensionally you'll loose tolerance by a lot because you need it to start looking really smooth. Also it can take days to weeks for the acetone to fully come out of the part. Melting it shows bubbling even after days I found.
It's cool u kinda hotrodded your own motor before you even finished building it lol. That's kinda epic. Shaved off some weight. It *should* be enough. And when it's purring it should have a tiny bit of extra pep behind it. Such a cool project.
You could use a resin to seal the prints. I have done it before. I did it in many ways. You could seal the outside by just coating it. But I have also had success with using a non closing infill and a little nub that you can later drill a hole in. Then you have access to the inside and you can fill the printed part with resin. If you put the part together with all the stresses applies and the fill it the resin will seal the same holes as where the water would leave. This would also be done by pressurizing the fill port to push the resin through the cracks. Polyurethane would be a good option as it has some flex to it
I am building, well trying to build, a working a working Engima machine from 3D printing and you quickly learn the limitations of plastic. If I ever get it working I will probably look at redoing some parts in 3D printed metals.
You should change the name from 3d printing a gas engine to building a gas engine from whatever i can find laying around my workshop! I love this series and im just kidding about the name. Cheap prototyping is definitely the only way to go and I hope by the end of it seeing a full metal 3d printed engine that can run for hours would be so awesome!
Before running a tap through a tite hole, use a reamer. It's in general a good idea to have a reamer for the size the tap requires anyways, so do that for future stuff. Drilling a hole for a tap isn't enough.
Sounds like you need to tune the carb; it's idle is a bit low. Through some trial and error, you can adjust the air-fuel mixture at idle. And then tune the throttle from there. Great work!
Way to go mate! Keep up the good work! Can't wait to be in a position when my dirtbike engine blows and I'll just print a new one using your blueprints :)
Happy new year everyone!
thanks
Have a great new year!
I have made a 3d printed running engine but it only ran for a minute then it melted and I made a new one
happy newyear
Happy new year 🎆🎇
I really love the fact that this project uses some of the most high-tech production methods and some of the most low-tech engineering (like some chicken wire etc.) to produce something that is already existing for over a hundred years. Not bashing on it though because I genuinely love it and have great respect for your commitment to it
@enriqueamaya3883shut up
For making prints watertight, I print with ABS and then vapor smooth them by heating a tub of acetone in an enclosure with the prints. Makes a really smooth surface and doesn't cost much at all.
I got even PLA prints completely watertight by increasing print temperature and reducing print speed and part cooling. With a bit of experimenting it held 2 bar of pressure no problem.
You can also print PLA with atleast 5-6 walls and a 50% infill @@TheLordNemesis
@@TheLordNemesisYou can also set the width to like 140% and the walls end up super solid. 5bar should be pretty easy
I Don't know much about 3d printing but was gonna suggest that or coating the entire thing in an epoxy or something like jb weld to seal it.
That method can deform parts and ruin tolerances
It's actually good that you didn't resize the whole with a dremel. The chances of it remaining round are very low and those threads you made are possibly the best you could have made because of the amount of material remaining. Do a quick test of a tight hole and a more sloppy hole and then add threads. The sloppy one will feel sleepy with a bolt in it and the tight one will feel tighter. Now measure the amount of strength you need to strip the threads and I bet you 1 kiss that the sloppy hole will strip out much quicker and than the tight one.
Yes I did write Whole instead of hole, no I won't fix it and yes I will blame autocorrect.
grinding it for 30 seconds would be best, just to remove a little bit of material to easen up the manual resizing
@@giovannicesaramorim9adigan961 using a broacher or a reamer would be the optimal thing to do.
The reamer tool is the best choice! Someone already mentioned it. It's specifically designed for slightly widening holes to specific sizes. While they should be done on a mill for the best results, I've used them on drills just fine. They have a long stalk, which means that they naturally flex slightly to center themselves in the pre-existing hole.
Given the available tools, using the tap gently as a drill probably gave the best results possible. It would have been very easy to knacker the whole with a dremmel.
Lol "sloppy hole"
I've always been interested with the properties of metal 3d printed parts so this is an awesome vid for me, awesome work dude.
Btw, for making solid (water-tight) 3d printed plastic pieces, there is a method but it's a bit time consuming. It's called salt remelting, it requires that you print the part at 100% infill, then submerge it fully in salt, ideally as fine as you can make it, then you put the whole thing into the oven at just beyond the plastic's plasticity point (depends on your specific plastic, I think PLA works at about 200C) for a while, then letting it cool.
The idea being that the salt prevents the part from warping or moving, and the slight remelt allows the plastic to bond together better between the layers, creating better water/air sealing, it also improves the shear strength perpendicular to the layer lines.
I wonder if an acetone vapor bath would have similar effects. That tends to melt the outer layers to give a smoothing effect, but it should be able to make things more water tight if left for a little longer.
@@DigitalJedi Yes, but only with ABS/ASA plastic
@henkvanvoorst8446 true. I forgot what he was working with and this came to mind as an easy way to get some sealing.
@@DigitalJediWhat plastic is he using?
@@nerd_nato564 I assumed ABS or PLA.
Designing and building an engine with such mix/match homemade and even with pro help with materials from PCB way is a very impressive feat. Can't wait till I see what you do next. Great job.
Great job shilling!
@@scottanderson6309 Who is shilling? I only mentioned PCB way because those are the parts he was unable to make himself, even though he designed the parts they made.
He's probably going to need a proper fueling system and some compression rings, it seems to run very lean and probably gets a lot of blowby through the rubber ring.
Impressive is not the word I would use ... perplexing or confusing comes to mind ... makes funny content though.
This is exactly why I am glad I was a child in the 80's. We tried making these things without 3D printing as there was none. Now, I don't really mean we would try and make our own engines, but we certainly made cannons that used gun powder, crossbows that could almost kill, and used gasoline for just about every thing we shouldn't. Watching this series has made me smile as I know that most of the time you are praying you don't get a face full of metal and plastic, lol. Awesome!
Really pleased that you managed to get it to run this well! Loved following this series of videos and your other projects. Looking forward to what comes next!
The “let me show you on my computer!” Part got you a new subscriber buddy, hilarious 😂
The saga continues, nice to see it man! I hope you keep it up!
What a good video to start off the new year!
That tapping sequence was sooooo hectic! I liked those tapping and welding shots you did throughout the building sequence
'Let me show you on my computer' was such a good gag too!
I love the little dipstick you added to the oil fill port's screw, and the screw itself is a good addition I think ;D
Its pretty cool seeing how the engine evolves every video
Excited to see some more engines on the channel
with how well the engine is running I suggest somehow making some kind of crankcase vent so it can breathe rather that will be in the oil cap or somewhere else also maybe valvetrain lubrication would be cool to keep it up!
This channel is my go to when trying to learn simple ways to machine complex parts in a simple garage shop. I never thought making some of these machines features would be possible at home. That lapping paste is genius.
There is so much you can do to make this even more amazing. Adding in a some timing featurs. Maybe an actual cooling system. Throttle cable. Fuel pump. This could become a full running working engine that you made at home and that would be an incredible feat of engineering. You got a follow from me for this one. Awesome work man. Can't wait to see what other cool things you do
Thanks a bunch!
I was hoping you were going to revisit this but casting the parts using the plastic parts to create the molds. I want to build a 1/4 scale V8 this way. There is an LS V8 that is already done for 3D printing
Man, this is beautiful. I’ve been looking forward to this engine running for a good amount of time.
Alot of weed eater engines use the same method of making a crankshaft as you did! They compensate for the wait by welding three plates on each of the crank journal to add extra weight. It's really cool because out of all the weed eater crankshafts I've seen now I kind of get how they're made
I think the issue you had with the first pump was actually something to do with priming rather than flow rate but the second pump was definitely the right choice.
The way you get things to works with a series of hacks, combined with your complete disregard for safety is very relatable to me as a brazilian, great job getting the engine to work 👍.
I think I’ve said it before, but I think this video demonstrates the need again, I’d love to see you build a lathe using printing for as much as possible.
Maybe lathe for wood and other soft material. For metals, I'd say it's a no no. If you're familiar with Uri Tuchman, he once tried making a mini lathe for brass, IIRC, and it didn't go very well unfortunately... :(
@@rizalardiansyah4486 Yeah, Uri's the man. I hated to see how his ultimately failed. I don't think a 100% printed lathe would work/be useful, but I think a lathe using a lot of printed parts, like pulleys and such, is perfectly doable. I think for aluminum and softer, a CNC lathe would be pretty easy to cook up from off the shelf (Amazon) components.
One thing I think I should’ve suggested a little while ago, would’ve been going with a flathead engine. If you went with a flathead engine, you could’ve just used a chunk of steel pipe for the cylinder sleeve and then welded a piece of flat bar with a whole drilled out for the cylinder sleeve, and two for the valves on top of it. Then 3-D printed head would work for probably a minute or two. Also, that would give you the ability to put an acrylic head on there and see it working with a clear head. I think that’s what I’m going to do with my engine, but as of right now I’m in Florida, so I can’t. Really love your channel and your videos! Keep up the great work!
When you're hand-lapping valves, i highly recommend using a bright light to see whether you've achieved full seal.
I work in an old-school machine shop, and i've been taught to check valves with a light first, before we even pulled a vacuum through
I am so glad to see you have taken what you've learned from the past and turned it into such a success, its really cool to see the engine you built run for so long
Great job! Very impressive.
I love this video! It's a combination of hilarious and totally intriguing. I love your curiosity and getting your own firsthand knowledge by testing all of these elements. This was really fun
Thank you!
You should try 3d printing a 2 stroke engine I think it would be interesting how you would design the crank case
Happy new year Camden! So cool to finally see it run!
Happy new year!
Happy new year🎉
I must have missed what the torch is for you keep bringing up once it starts I don't get that part.
Each episode he slowly strays further away from plastic
u have inspired me. I am currently designing a compressed engine with self actuating VVT. basically copying you but I need to start somewhere. awesome vid dude.
Yeah, it honestly literally sounds like its getting too little fuel. I have a briggs and stratron engine that I have worked on, and it keeps on stallling out like your engine does. And it turned out to just be a throttle problem by not letting in enough fuel.
Ps, awsome video!!!!😃
Also, I know this might not be a very good idea but what if you add a fuel pump on the fuel line to help with it's low amount of fuel withdraw...
Legitimately impressed that you didn't break the tap
2:00 how to torture a mettal worker
Looks like your having fun experimenting with internal combustion in your garage. I noticed you mentioning a "go cart" and an old lawnmower.
"Old lawnmower" engine is a good starting point.
What you have learned with cad/cam might help, but the old lawnmover engine will also help. There are fundamental concepts in the old lawn mower engine.
The engine is probably dying because when combustion happens, it's warming the plastic of the cylinder walls faster than the metal piston. They expand at different rates and you lose compression. On a conventional engine you can tell when this happens because the engine begins to race (choke has caused a rich condition, warming cylinder walls increases fuel vaporization). It's also why you can't properly measure compression on a cold engine.
You can probably start it without the propane if you just use a choke, as well.
Awesome project and I'm loving watching along, good luck on whatever you do next!
How much heating do you think they're seeing after 10 second runs really.
@@Idiomatickit's a small explosion, all the energy is converted.
@@noahprussia7622 if all the energy is converted into heat that would be concerning for sure.
Severely underrated channel you have here. Also happy new year!!!!
Silly question but have you thought of 3d printing a mould and sand casting a block out of aluminium or other metal?
2strokestuffing has done this
Yeah, it's way easier and even cheaper to buy a small furnace, crucibles and crucible tongs.
Brass pipe cylinder liner....atta boy! Worked! Proud of all you've learned! Look at you go!
Dude, you don't know how excited I am to see this thing run. Been checking the channel every other day for the video.
Also, the rubber compression ring will probably never fail you. Seen a video by garage54 where they used a rubber compression ring on a real lada engine and it was impossible to melt.
That same video gave me reassurance about my choice to use the O ring aha
See, your mane is getting longer and it's looking better. Keep it growing, it will be worth it in the end trust me mine has been long for 15yrs and I won't go back. It's nice to see people still experimenting and building things rather than sitting on Instagram.
i think that 1 cylinder boi wants an turbo
your like the only person making these 3D printed thermic engines and actually making progress
He is the best one I have found, i am working on my own 3d printed engine, it is on my channel, but I tried a 2 stroke engine.
You are legitimately the most underrated RUclipsr on this platform
I think u cant be a RUclipsr on any other platform
this is a great start to 2024 for me
i am impressed at your commitment and skills, keep up the good work
and happy new year
Anyone else think he made some strange decisions or am I tripping 😭
Dude you are so close to making that thing actually idle, ive been watching this since day one and im 100% confident youll get her running good one day. Keep at it youre doing an awesome job!
My favorite RUclips series!!
Finally, thank goodness! You've been creating these 3D print engine videos for quite some time, and now it has successfully run.
OHMYGOD i havent been on the edge of my seat fearing for a youtubers life ever, it's so scuffed and i love it so much!
i cant believe every thing you done is all what not to do,
but it was fun watching you try, and it almost worked,
Those metal parts came out nice
looking forward to an update video of this project working
Finally! I was waiting for the 3d printed metal engine! Ive been watching this project since the original, and im not disappointed. Cant wait for the other ones 👀
It's amazing what you could do with 3d printing.
Also I love that your videos are more down to earth and isn't everything perfect or your have everything perfectly calculated beforehand
This is genius and fun to watch. I wish I had paid more attention in auto shop when we rebuilt lawn mower engines.
it might be something with the spark that is not burning the fuel and making it not run or it is not getting enough air possibly
The reason it kept stalling is because the o ring was getting warm from all the blow by, throw a set of piston rings on it and make the bottom end case stronger, design it like a motorcycle case where it's split in the middle and not half way, that will let you have a stronger bottom end and less oil leaks!
I’m working on my own 3d printed engine, so that might be useful for my engine! Thank you!
OMG why haven't I bumped into your channel earlier???
I used to work on 2 strokes engines in the late 80's, back then we were tweaking what we had to work with, and the process was fascinating.
What you are making here is the most bananas thing I've seen and I'm loving it!
As I watch you try new things I'm "this can't work", but when you figure it out it's like "I knew he could come up with a solution" :D
Thank you for sharing this 🙏🏼
I dont know how this chanell does not have 1 million subs with the quality of this content
Holy cow, you actually did it!! That's just awesome, man. I love this series so much!
Excellent work! Time for more cylinders!
I like the way you do your projects, try, fail, investigate and improve. That kind of thinking is what we need to progress and make the future 😄
that engine shakes soo much more now flinging that metal piston around. great vid dude! love it
I've really been enjoying watching your projects. Keep the inner mad scientist inside you alive and well. 🤘🏻
holy shit, dude... i was already laughing pretty good when you 'sent off the package', but i wheezed and crylaughed so hard when you showed us what you were talking about with the piston on your computer. so amazing. thank you lol
bro you have no idea how much better my day gets when you upload
welding bearing races. resizing holes for threads with rotary tools
much good, very success !
Just a tip from a fabricator, when tapping holes just use a drill bit, plenty of drill bit to tap charts online.
wow, you posted this exactly at 00:00. HAPPY NEW YEAR!
love your video, just be careful! that flywheel can easily hurt you, I have seen someone lost a leg with his flywheel project just be careful man and Happy new year
They have taper taps and tap magic to make it easier. Also the tap handles have countersink in the back so you can hold it straight with a center. Most common tool a home maker would have is a drill press and vise to do it that way
This is one of my favourite 3D printing projects. It's really interesting seeing which components can survive being plastic and which ones need to be upgraded to metal.
I've made airtight vaccum sensors on a cheap fdm 3d printer.... ABS + acetone vapour melts it together. Also solid infill. Dimensionally you'll loose tolerance by a lot because you need it to start looking really smooth. Also it can take days to weeks for the acetone to fully come out of the part. Melting it shows bubbling even after days I found.
spray the cylinder casing with flex seal and that should take care of your leaking issue
Dip your 3d print in resin, great waterproofing. Takes a bit of to and fro to get the tolerance, but works
It's remarkable how you've straddled the line of doing things correctly and sketchy
The fact alone that it’s running even for a short time is impressive! Love this project :)
It's cool u kinda hotrodded your own motor before you even finished building it lol. That's kinda epic. Shaved off some weight. It *should* be enough. And when it's purring it should have a tiny bit of extra pep behind it.
Such a cool project.
Your channel is really underrated
I am very proud of your build
Thanks!
I'm happy I keep tuning into this, seeing that engine kick on was so satisfying.
THE KING IS BACK!
Great video keep up the work pal! I want to see that engine running for atleast 30 seconds
You could use a resin to seal the prints. I have done it before. I did it in many ways. You could seal the outside by just coating it.
But I have also had success with using a non closing infill and a little nub that you can later drill a hole in. Then you have access to the inside and you can fill the printed part with resin. If you put the part together with all the stresses applies and the fill it the resin will seal the same holes as where the water would leave. This would also be done by pressurizing the fill port to push the resin through the cracks. Polyurethane would be a good option as it has some flex to it
I have been waiting for this video FOREVER. I would check my phone countless times a day!!!! TYSM!!!!!!!
Been here since the first 3d printed engine glad to see this outcome I can’t wait to see the next video!!
You did a great job man! From plastic and JB weld to a fully functional engine. 🤔
That's something to be proud of
I am building, well trying to build, a working a working Engima machine from 3D printing and you quickly learn the limitations of plastic. If I ever get it working I will probably look at redoing some parts in 3D printed metals.
You should change the name from 3d printing a gas engine to building a gas engine from whatever i can find laying around my workshop! I love this series and im just kidding about the name. Cheap prototyping is definitely the only way to go and I hope by the end of it seeing a full metal 3d printed engine that can run for hours would be so awesome!
Before running a tap through a tite hole, use a reamer. It's in general a good idea to have a reamer for the size the tap requires anyways, so do that for future stuff. Drilling a hole for a tap isn't enough.
Sounds like you need to tune the carb; it's idle is a bit low. Through some trial and error, you can adjust the air-fuel mixture at idle. And then tune the throttle from there. Great work!
Absolutly amazing, cant wait to see one powering something like a bicycle or gokart
Great video. something interesting to look into. Gas has a different ignition timing to gasoline.
12:00 "welds"? Narr. 🤣 An excellent journey of discovery for you, & at least entertaining for us. 👍
A mini tabletop lathe will be one of the best investments you'll make! I use mine all the time.
i woke up watching this video and you made my day!
nun better than seeing your own project work
I recently replaced my vespa's cylinder and honestly, i have so much respect for what youre doing
Way to go mate! Keep up the good work! Can't wait to be in a position when my dirtbike engine blows and I'll just print a new one using your blueprints :)
Surly MacGyver would be impressed!
You really needed the lathe you just bought!
Fun stuff.
Best video i have seen this year
I've been waiting for this video for like the last f******month and a half I have checked every day