Glad I could inspire you! Lol! I have a video you may want to watch has some important tips before you start the installation process. ruclips.net/video/1rMpDlE9ADU/видео.html Thank you for watching!
I could not find where to drill the holes to drop the wires from my attic because #1 it's way too hot up there in FL and #2 there is no way I can see to drill and feed the wire down to my wall location. But other than that it came out great
only thing i would change is to add a single gang low voltage mounting bracket to make this a more perfect job. It's only an extra $1.50 and you wont need to drill holes in the drywall and use the little plastics for the screws.
You don't even need the full old work box. For low voltage, there's a part that effectively serves as a protective perimeter for the single gang hole in the drywall. This keeps you from having to fight to get the wiring into a box while giving your drywall protection and giving you mounting holes (and room for that beautiful 6 point keystone panel for when you expand again later) ... I came here to ensure Mike's comment was down here
@@ghammer9773 Yes !! The 6-port keystone cover is your best friend when running any sort of data or telecommunication. Add the low voltage clamp instead of a full box and your data project is MUCH easier
I do this everyday, would have ran better supports, and a mud ring for the faceplate, screw the anchors. Eliminate the rjs and place rack with patch panel with better cable management more user friendly and upgradable
Having spent a lot of time in my own attic doing the same type of job as you did. I always carried a knee board to span the rafters. It makes the work much easier and you don't have to worry about keeping your balance on top of 2 by 4's. Just cut a piece of 1/2" plywood large enough to cover a span of two joists. Another remedy is never work in a attic that is over 90 degrees. Between sweat running into your eyes and the insulation sticking to your skin, it can make it quite miserable to work around. Plan your attic work at after 10:00PM and finish before 8:00AM. to beat the heat.
Before going into an attic on a warm sunny day, wetting down the entire roof with water will cause evaporative cooling and lower the attic temperatures, better yet pick a rainy day to do that work.
@@RayleighCriterion That is a good idea but in Las Vegas it rains once every 2 months or so. Last year it didn't rain for 5 months....ugh. I can't wet my roof down because we have solar panles. It was a fun project and it turned out great. I installed the 1 gang low voltage wall plate 2 weeks later and that video will be up next week. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well!
Good tip with the kneeboard. I spent about 2 weeks doing floor demolition and insulation removal in an ancient attic, constantly balancing between joists. It gave me a really stubborn corn under a toe that took 4 or 5 months to get rid of.
This is an okay “weekend warrior” type install.. Pro tip: your electric recepticle will always be on a stud. Use the stud and install the cables/low voltage ring on the opposite side of the stud. Use an old work box, or Low Voltage ring.. do not screw the pate to the wall. Also, fish sticks/fish tape can come in handy for many walls.
Thank you for watching and I added the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video I made on the install. ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
I'd also recommend if you have the wall open or unfinished to run a conduit instead since that way you can easily run new cables when you need them, like optical, coax or CAT6/7 over CAT5E
@@legoboy-ox2kx Absolutely I would run cat6a at a minimum if the walls where open even use conduit. This is a simple way for anyone to drop wires into a room. Thank you for watching.
An easy and very accurate way to locate exactly where you need to drop the line through the wall is to use a very small diameter wire on a drill. This would be something like the fine wire that used to keep insulation batting in place. Those are easily obtain at any big box store. Take and chuck the wire into a drill and drill up the ceiling adjacent to the location where you want to have the drop. Leave the wire up there and then go into the attic and find the wire. Patching the very small diameter hole that the wire makes is very easy and it will not be noticed. You can also use a stud finder to locate the space between the studs before you drill up with that wire. This ensures that you won’t hit a stud on the way down. This will also significantly reduce the amount of time you need to stay in a hot attic. Great video!
Thanks for the tip! When you say chuck the wire into the drill, do you mean instead of using a small drill bit, we use the wire instead in place of a bit? Also, you're talking about using a stud finder to find studs above the ceiling drywall, right?
You got extremely lucky finding the wire drop inside the wall space. Everytime I run a wire, a run a chase wire with it. Makes it very easy in case you want to drop TV/Cable coax. Also I lablel both ends of each wire, then draft out a schematic for final termination to a switch or router.
@@brownclorox simply means tying some wire or twine to the new circuit wire. If you ever need to pull another wire/cable, you don't have to fish around for it. Tie new cable to chase then pull whatever other cable or wire you want to run to the same place
A few suggestions from a low voltage installer. Safety first. Wear a dust mask when in the attic or crawl space as you never know what is floating around. For a more professional job, a low-Voltage old work bracket should always be used, to attach the wall plate too, not a hole and drywall anchors. After running the wires, stuff insulation in the holes to act as a fire block per National Electrical Code. Low voltage wires should be run through the rafters/ truss framing and not laid direct on the ceiling or insulation and supported every 4 to 5 feet. I always terminate each end of the run into RJ45 keystone jacks or a patch panel and never use RJ45 plugs.
Here is my updated video on the low voltage gang wall plate install. I installed it about 3 weeks after I posted the video. Thank you for watching and for the valuable information. ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
I appreciate the video! I’m a new telecom apprentice in the union and I’ve been looking at your videos, I’m not the brightest so I need explanations I can go back over and look at. These videos are great! Keep it up.
Would recommend to use a cut in ring for the faceplate so the machine screws have a proper mount, also you dont need to guess on the size, just trace the ring with a pencil to get your dimensions. Also makes a rectangular hole so you can get your hand inside the wall to grab the wires.
I wish I lived in houses like this. Every example of network wire dropping are from newer builder grade suburbs type housing like this. I have lived in multiple states in multiple houses and new lived in anything like this. My current house was built in 1900 and does not have an attic like this (the attic is huge and has original hardwood floors in most of it) and is multi-story. Plus there is no drywall, it is all plaster and lathe boards. And the modem has to stay in the basement (made of crumbly field stone) so yeah... pulling for my house is going to be way more involved than these type of drops... But either way, thanks for sharing and I hope it was helpful for many folks :)
Everyone whos new to this kind of thing is thinking "where do I drill" and you didn't explain that very well. You just said you had to drill down a couple 2x4's. I think you should've gone over this a little more, otherwise excellent video!
Other people have said to poke a piece of wire (14ga, a nail, pin, whatever is tiny) through the ceiling, and you can see where in the top plate to drill. And then plug the tiny hole (plaster, caulk, etc) after you're done.
Thanks for the kind comments! I have over a hundred home networking videos so make sure to check them out. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
I have been running patch cables between points. I used the female pass throughs that snaps into the keystone wall plate. Saves me from having to terminate the cables. There is always extra cable that way but you can tie that up in the attic and make it look better. Saves me time and it is easier.
My personal preference is to not use drywall mounting screws, instead, I would use a low-voltage mounting bracket. It's much cleaner, sturdier, and allows for better access behind the drywall.
I installed the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video link. ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html Thank you for watching.
Cool to see this done in reverse (running cable in a finished home or as you say "wall fishing"). I just did all the low voltage/CAT6/CAT5e wiring for an entire Habitat For Humanity apartment project in Philly.
Great video for the basics...but suggestion: label the cables in the closet so you know where they go if you ever have a problem or need to trace it back to another part of the house. Also, did you flat run the cables in attic across the 'attic floor' or did you sink them / protect them from being stepped on in any future attic visits?
I did flat runs for all the Cat6 cables. And I labeled all of my Network Cables. Here is the video I posted about a month ago. ruclips.net/video/ka2g4XlcmeU/видео.html Thanks for watching I really appreciate it. And thanks for the good advice.
This. I had my house prewired for ethernet during construction. Jackass low voltage contractor labeled absolutely nothing. So I have like 20 ports in my cabinet and no clue where 18 of them go.
@@jghall00 you need a network tracer tool set -- one end sends a signal on the LAN jack and you go with the other one and test all the known ports in the house. A bit of work for 1 but it can help!
@@jghall00 Instead of crimping purchase and mount a small patch panel and punch down the wires on the back. Then use short patch cables to go from the patch panel to your devices.
Exactly what running cables is like in a nutshell. With different job sites require different methods of feeding cables into walls for a wall outlet. Sometimes if theres no choice, theres always ducting. Also it's always good practice to have the right tool for the right job. Makes the work soo much easier. But if your tools are limited, that's where experience comes into play. Really enjoyed watching this video. 🤙🏼Techy life!
Thanks for the great comments. Here is the video update of this install. I added the low voltage gang wall plate. ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html Thank you for watching!
I would recommend using low voltage frames for mounting the faceplate. If you're always careful, not accident prone, or don't have kids, then this works great. But low voltage frames really help keeping everything secure, and prevent a lot of potential drywall patches.
Extra Safety Tip - A tube of Tub and Tile Sealer (DAP) can meet and exceed some fire code regs buy creating a air tight seal around the faceplate. It bonds well to the plastic and the drywall. Using it like a gasket at the wall plate and the hole in the ceiling. You will want to seal it to prevent not only air movement, but bug infestation as well.
@@trs-80fanclub12 Ants will find a way in no matter what you seal your faceplate with. The way to get rid of ants isn't to try and seal every millimeter in your house (an impossible task), but to get rid of any issues that attract ants, like rotting trash, etc. The wall plate sealing sounds like a stupid idea to me.
Most important thing that isn't repeated in these comments is the importance of suspending bundles. You want to mount the bundles up beside the truss members, not on the bottom to avoid them being bumped, snagged, etc. This also makes them much more pleasant to work around for you or any contractors (HVAC, Insulation, etc) that may have to work up there. A cheap and easy method is to go to homedepot and buy a few bags of 1" mounting bases, a couple bags of 4" max diameter cable ties and a few boxes of zinc #8x1.5" wood screws. The bases have adhesive backing, stick them to the sides of your joists with the openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 oclock, run a fastener in them, cable tie goes tail up so that when you fasten them you pull the tail down. A few words of advice, cable ties are not for lashing things down to weather a hurricane. The tie only needs to be tight enough that the bundle is free of separation, as soon as the tie is contacting the entire bundle circumference you can stop tightening. Use a cable tie torque gun like the Panduit GTS-E or the cheap IDEAL version and set it to torque setting 0-3. I like to bore diagonal paths through the joists of my trusses to minimize the amount of low hanging looms.
I am about to do this project again but with CAT 8 Ethernet (so overkill [but why not]) With my new house. I am going to centralize cables on a small wall mounted server rack in my garage which already has a dehumidifier built in. Loved your wall plate idea, I might borrow that idea. Last time I tore up way to much dry wall installing stud attached wall boxes that I screwed in the wall plates in.
Cat8 is definitely overkill but I love it!!! Go for it! I ended up installing a low voltage gang wall bracket a few weeks later. They are super easy to install and the only reason I didn't in the video was because I didn't want to drive 12 miles to get one. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
I enjoy watching these types of videos. I would love to run ethernet in my home. I'm going to have to run a direct line to the ONT FIOS unit if I want to increase my speed. I'll do it then. I'll probably hire someone to do it. Not that I couldn't do it myself, but the older I get I've come to realize what is my time worth to me. A professional could do it in less than half the time it would take me. Maybe if I was 10 years younger.
Absolutely correct, trading time for money is very smart. If a pro can install the wires in 2 hours and you can install the wires in 4 hours its probably worth just paying a pro. However if you enjoy doing some hands on DYI projects this project is a lot of fun. But don't try this in the summer months. My attic was around 100 degrees and that caused me to take many breaks. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!!
Yep, makes it a significantly more difficult job. Just went through this myself. Unless you happen to have a lucky perfect downward angle from the attic, you'll be stuck bending the long drill bit either from the top or bottom and it might be difficult to get it to drill without binding.
@@sweepingdenver Especially if you don't build your home or know the scematics of your home build so you can add the conduit, this is not a simple task with firebreaks as you said and requires alot more work.
Thanks fur your great video on Cat5/6 cable and faceplate routing. I also do this many times so I'd like to highlight some questions that your viewers may ask. 1. How do you make sure the faceplate is vertically aligned with the attic drilled hole that feeds the network cable? I either use a signal injector and radio receiver to trace the wire. Or I drill a small pilot hole at the location of the attic network cable entry. Then I drop a plumb line to vertically align the attic network cable entry into the wall. Then I patch this smell hole I used for the top of the plumbline. 2. Using a network cable checker. Maybe you can introduce the network cable checker and do it in another video. 3. Sometimes the RJ-45 and CAT wires do not properly run to the end of the connector to get a good crimp. The new RG-45 connectors allow a pass through of individual wires, 8 of them , to exit out of the connector that will guarantee crimping. But this needs a precise wire cutters to closely cut off the excess wires. Thanks again for your video.
Thanks for the help, last night I did this, I spent about 4 hours in the attic alone XD. I don’t know if you mentioned it in the video, but cat 6 needs to be away from all electric cables
Great video, unfortunately I do not have a central network panel at home. Do you have any video about installing it or do you recommend get prof to install it?
I'm going to be uploading a small network panel installation video in the next 3 or 4 weeks so keep an eye out. You could also just hire a low voltage installer to install the panel. Thanks for watching!
Very informative. I think I’d get up in the attic and not know where my wall is. Also if I found the wall I probably wouldn’t know where to drill for them once I got back downstairs. 😅
It takes quite a bit of preparation and planning. I measured several times inside my house to determine where the correct wall drop location was. I would recommend doing this in the winter or fall. The attic got too hot. Thank you for watching and for commenting!
I ran ethernet cables in my previous home. (Current home has low roof and hard to get around; would like to run some here but would have to just about crawl on my belly) I found a good way to see where to drill in the attic is to determine what part of the wall you want the cable to come down, then get a heavy piece of wire about a foot long and push it through the ceiling drywall only about an inch away from the wall. Then go up to the attic and look for the wire sticking up. Then drill your hole 2-3 inches over from the wire through the faceplate.
@@scottwski that's a good way to do it. In my situation it would have an issue with wire because the ceiling had a kick out that might have prevented the wire from going up. Just be careful in the attic and take your time. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
You did an excellent job walking us through this. Plenty of anxiety involved with the process, but the detailed walkthrough gave me the confidence to move forward! Any recommendations with cables?
If you don't expect to get more than 1 gig speeds from your ISP then cat6 riser cable would be perfect. Cat5e works as well but the price difference is minimal. Cat6 bandwidth is higher so you can have more users on the network without losing speed. I have several videos on which cable types to use so make sure to watch them for a full understanding of all the ethernet types. Thank you for watching and good luck. Keep me posted if you have any issues.
I know sorry about the length part. I filmed it but forgot to add it. What I did was run 2 cables from the front room to the back sliding door which is about 80 feet. That was how I determined the approximate length. Probably could have gone with 60 feet but you never want to run short on these drops. Thanks for watching I really appreciate it!
When buying keystones and wall plates its a good idea to make sure they are the same brand. Although they should be universal, mixing brands doesn't always work well, and the keystones will pop out of the plate when you're plugging something in.
Great video with some great information. The awkward pauses between words in the VO kinda kills the pacing though (constructive criticism, still REALLY appreciate the video). Thanks for the help!
It's the EZ crimper that works with thr RJ45 pass through connectors. All these tools are linked in my description and are available for purchase. And yes it makes it super easy to make patch cables. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Thank you for subscribing and glad you like the video. I've got over a hundred videos on Home Networking so make sure to check them out when you get a chance. Thanks again.
Nice video I'm gonna do this in a few days in my master bedroom on the second floor. Also have you ever seen a house with 2 attics? Cause mine has one in the garage and one on the second floor so which one should I do the drop in?
I didn't climb up into my attic. Instead, I ran the cables up from the basement. It seems a lot easier than to use go through all that insulation, not to mention the heat. I did cut a rectangular hole in the wall to put in a old work box. It seemed much easier than using molys to hold the wall plate like you did. And I can open it up and put a larger wall plate if I need to add a coax run.
Better to drop from the attic crawlspace or go up from the 2” high floor dirt crawlspace ? Is water a concern? Do you need to make a conduit run out of pvc ?
Attic crawl space is your best bet. You have more flexibility and options. Water is not a concern when dropping wires into walls. If there is water in your walls then you have a big problem! Conduit would be used for outdoors when running wires to a separate building. PVC pipe would work as conduit. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Great video! I have a weird scenario, where my house has a run where I need it, BUT I want to upgrade it to CAT6 for 10Gbe. Do you have a video where it shows how (easily?) I can pull a CAT6 thru where the Cat5 is currently?
I don't have a video on that technique yet. But it should be easy. If you know where the cat5e starts and ends just disconnect the cat5e from the wall jack and tie a cat6a ethernet cable to the end of the cat5e. Make sure you have enough cat6a for the entire run and then pull the cat5e from the other end and the cat6a will get pulled all the way through. You may have to go into the attic if the cat6a gets stuck or caught on a beam or other attic stuff. Good luck and keep me posted. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Tip of the day. Find your local electrical supplier that sells C6 cable. Mine is Greybar electric. Call and ask for the "will-call" desk and ask if they have any CAT6 remnants. 1000' boxes of cable get damaged so they open them up and salvage what they can and sell at a deep discount. A must have tool is a set of glow rods. Order a cheap set from Amazon. This tool does not care about insulation and will penetrate easily down through the wall. Throw your heavy bolt away. As some have commented you do not use RJ45's on solid strand copper. You will need a CAT6 patch panel and a punch tool for installation. These 2 items will set you back about 50 bucks for both on Amazon. Always use drywall remodel brackets for the jack plate cut in. Last thing. If your arsenal of tools is a box cutter, a hammer, and 2 screwdrivers sitting on a shelf in your garage and you are going to get your buddy's cordless drill. Don't try this. you will end up breaking things in your house. Good luck out there.
Thanks for the great information I appreciate it. I installed the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video I made. ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html I have a punch down tool but I wanted to show how to do this job with minimal tools and supplies. The bolt on a string does work great and I've used it for dozens of wire drops. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
You can use a sheet of plastic that's cut to fit inside the box. Simply drill holes in the plastic sheet where you want to attach your devices and attach them using velcro straps or zip ties. They also make brackets for these boxes. Here is the video link for that product. ruclips.net/video/nytwwY_JR2s/видео.html Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well. Keep me posted!
The problem I have run into is the “Fire Blocks” between the studs. Some are smaller than the wall studs, which makes it easy to get the wires down the wall. But, when they are the same size, it not a fun or enjoyable to drill through them. Or, need to move the wall plates to a different location which changes everything.
Yes fireblocks are annoying. Most inside walls don't have them. But some builders add them in random areas. My house has very few fireblocks and most are on the outside facing walls. Use a simple stud finder to locate the fireblocks. They do make a very long drill bit for these situations. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
Great video! What if I need to do this kind of work up in the attic with drilling and feeding cable, but my internet comes in through the basement? There is a 2 x 4 to drill though in the attic to feed cable between the wall like in this video, but is there going to be another hole I need to drill to feed cable from the first floor to the basement?
Question: I bought Cat 5-6 Wall plate that has the front side female opening. The backside also has the same female cat 5 connector(i guess so that you can just plug a patch cable and run to the other wall jack) If I use a standard (already terminated) Cat 5 cable will the wiring need reversed at some point? Hope that was not confusing.
If I'm understanding correctly, I believe you just plug the patch cable in and everything should work just fine. It sounds like a wall plate with pre-installed cat5 female adapters. It should work no problems.
I would try to run it the easiest way possible. You can drill through the plywood into the joists to run the ethernet. Maybe try doing one ethernet run that way and see how it goes first. Then determine if its better to run through the crawl space. Keep me posted!
Pro Tips. #1. Cut horizontally first so if by chance you hit a stud, you can cut the rest of the length in the opposite direction of the stud. #2 Always use pull string with your runs in case you need to add lines in the future.
I did pull string but the string dropped through the hole accidentally....Lol. I do have 2 cables so on can act as the string. Thanks for the 2 pro tips and thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub if you ever get in a real pinch, you can power two devices with 1 cable (2 pairs-white orange, orange, white green, green) for one device and the last pairs (blue, white blue, white brown, brown) for the second device. Just wire the 2 RJ45s at each end of the 1 line as if your only using white orange, orange, white green, green and put them where you normally would, skipping all the missing pairs.
Whats that black tool you used at @9:27 to push the wires into the CAT6 keystone connector? Are those usually included with those connectors? Would a flat heat work?
It's a punch down tool. It comes with all keystone jacks. Don't use a flat head it will break it. Feel free to ask me any questions I answer all comments. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
On Q-Legrand. My last 2 homes had the same brand of Networking panels. Here is a video about both of these panels. ruclips.net/video/XiGSrbk633M/видео.html Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub You're awesome! Thank you very much! I'm putting together a buying list so I can upgrade my home network. Thanks again for the quick response. Also I'm subbing :)
@@Divel11 Thank you for the kind comments I really appreciate it. Here is a video that discusses Home Networking Build Costs which should help you with your Home Network. ruclips.net/video/ZwEqyVxsKpc/видео.html
How da fudge sickle pop did you drill into the drywall and know the wires you dropped were there? I feel like I would be drilling holes everywhere to find em
Lol! I've wire dropped so many network cables I just know where it will end up in the wall. And I also measure where I drill the hole in the attic and then measure the exact distance at the bottom of the wall and that usually works perfectly. I just uploaded a new cat6 cable run video so make sure to check it out! Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!
Very tricky and it will require cutting some holes in the drywall. I will make a video on this subject soon. It's way too much information for me to explain in the comment section.
Must be a dangerous job when running cable, while crawling over raptors... Hats off to you..! There are many situations where you cannot run cables, so I suggest you look in to Mesh APs, so long as your devices support wifi... One AP is connected via Ethernet cable (Wired node), while the other APs (Mesh nodes) and power by an adapter in a location that needs improved coverage. The Mesh AP will wireless back-haul via 5ghz and complete the connection... This will provide extended range, with adding cable...
I have a Netgear WAX 630 AP in the middle of our house. It's a PoE++ AP that's connected VIA a cat6a to our RUCKUS PoE switch. WiFi in our home is excellent but I prefer wired connections for gaming and streaming its just more reliable. Thank you for the great information and for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub You're welcome... I've been in the WiFi industry for 20 years and supported a number of WiFi commercial solutions... ;-) I've just deployed the Aruba InstantOn 1930 POE switch and AP12 AP11D APs in my house, and really like the solution.. Yes, I Ialso have 2 cable runs dedicated to the TVs that are located in the living room and Master bed room... 1 AP12 upstairs hallway, 1 AP12 downstairs and 1 AP11D located in my office space that also has 4 Ethernet ports for wired devices...
Dude dropped Cat5e all over my new home build and then had to drop Cat6 cause that’s what we wanted. Hopefully they wire the Cat6 the faceplates and don’t mess up again.
Those push jacks are awful. You can get jacks that you plug rj45s on the back that are more reliable. Could even get 50ft cables so you don't even need to do the connector work, although more expensive than adding connectors yourself. I love how wires magically pull through the first time...are you sure that wasn't the 2nd or 3rd take, lol. Why not run coax too?
Those horizontal 2x4s are called firestops and most homes have them on outside facing walls. This particular wall is an inside facing wall with no firestops. Sometimes inside walls can have them but not very often. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub yes sir. We are having our home built as we speak. I walk thru it all the time. Every room but 2 bedrooms are internet ready. So much for a real smart house. So I have to run the cat from the hub to the front bedroom that will be my work office. During the build I seen them put the insulation between the 2x4’s spaces about 18” apart. But they also but the runners in there too so the runners are about mid way up but staggered between the walls. Meaning each wall had them and middle of one set them about 100 higher the space over for the runners then next space back to the middle and so on. I am thinking it won’t be so easy to run the cat. It looks as if the runners are holding up the insulation midway. (But of course the Sheetrock/drywall will do that.
No fireblock around the cables. Some walls have fireblocks but this wall did not have one. The hole in the attic was only big enough for the 2 wires so it's not an issue. Thank you for watching.
Great video but got any recommendations for brick/ old cottages? Sometimes no cavity. Can never get people to agree to wires showing but no way to run cable unless chasing out. Any tips? Work in telecoms in the UK.
The way I would run the wires from the ceiling is in the corner of the wall. Use a low profile conduit for the wire(s) to run through and run it to the floor. Use more conduit to run to the desired location. Also run wires from one room to an adjacent room using a masonry bit to drill through the brick wall. That's my best advice. Thank you for watching and keep me posted.
Hi. Great video. I wanted to get thoughts on running the cables UP front the basement as opposed to DOWN from the attic. I want to wire my home, and up from the basement seems easiest for me since my basement is unfinished at this time. Any issues with this approach? Thanks!
It should be pretty easy since the basement is unfinished. Just drill a hole from the first floor to the basement to run the wires. Good luck and keep me posted. Thank you for watching.
Moved into a House built in 74 last year. Haven't got to it yet but I plan to place a wall mounted 12U server rack in the closet of the room we made the Office. but Sadly while I know how to do things like line drops my weight makes me hesitant to DIY so I will either have to conscript the step son to do the attic/Crawl space work or pay someone to come out for it. I am hesitant to call someone out since the guy Comcast sent out did a half A** job of it by just drilling through the floor to run the cables instead of running them in the wall like they should be.
Yep the internet companies like Comcast and Cox do a terrible job of running wires. They take the easiest way possible which always looks like sh%t. If you lived in Las Vegas I could recommend some great installers. If your step son can do the drops that would be a great learning experience for him. I have several wire drop videos so make sure to watch them and have your step son watch them too. Good luck and keep me posted. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
Well done #UltimateTechHub Gread video, great footage and very encouraging to Newbies. I'm in Western Australia so our roofs get to 140F in summer. Our houses are all Double Brick with an air gap, so its easy to drop Cat 6. Suggestion for a video: 568A Vs 568B - Why one over the other. Also distances between Power cables and Data cables. Keep up the excellent work. P.S. Ive long ago wired my house for Cat 6 and Audio
one tip you can do is get some rg 6 cable and strip the wire to have a long copper wire, stick that copper closest to the wall that way when your in attic your able to locate the wall and copper makes a minor hole that barely visible
Thank you for watching! Here is the video I did on the low voltage gang bracket that I didn't show in this video. ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
For Pros or multiple drops... a tool called Magnespot helps locate the exact spot to drill from the attic. For only a couple drops, grab a long 1/4 drill bit and drill up thru the ceiling at the drop point. You can see the bit in the attic. A little spackle hides the tiny hole. No guessing. Also, using old work low voltage brackets let's you cut a bigger hole and is a more secure attachment point for the wall plate. $2 at home depot.
I know this video is late and you probably won't reply but I'm a complete newbie to this. Basically when we got our house built we did get cables installed in every room but it was just the TV cable unfortunately so I'll have to rewire the cat-6 into my room. I just wanted to ask that if I directly just plug my the cat 6 cable into my modem which then goes to my room as a wall jack plug where I'll plug in another ethernet cable to connect to my computer. Do I necessarily have to plug the cable into a router and then into a modem for it work or my previous mentioned method will work just fine? If somebody has information, please let me know. It'll be very appreciated
Yes that would work going from modem to computer. However that means you have only one device in your network. Also make sure your computer has anti virus software and the firewall needs to be turned on.
I've been wanting to do this for my man cave for so long and never got to it, after watching this I want to do it asap.
Glad I could inspire you! Lol!
I have a video you may want to watch has some important tips before you start the installation process.
ruclips.net/video/1rMpDlE9ADU/видео.html
Thank you for watching!
its been more than a year, how did it turned out?
@@marvinfrancisco4812 came out great
I could not find where to drill the holes to drop the wires from my attic because #1 it's way too hot up there in FL and #2 there is no way I can see to drill and feed the wire down to my wall location. But other than that it came out great
@@UltimateTechHub cool
only thing i would change is to add a single gang low voltage mounting bracket to make this a more perfect job. It's only an extra $1.50 and you wont need to drill holes in the drywall and use the little plastics for the screws.
Yep. The Carlon orange low voltage old work boxes are excellent
You don't even need the full old work box. For low voltage, there's a part that effectively serves as a protective perimeter for the single gang hole in the drywall. This keeps you from having to fight to get the wiring into a box while giving your drywall protection and giving you mounting holes (and room for that beautiful 6 point keystone panel for when you expand again later)
... I came here to ensure Mike's comment was down here
@@ghammer9773 Yes !! The 6-port keystone cover is your best friend when running any sort of data or telecommunication. Add the low voltage clamp instead of a full box and your data project is MUCH easier
I do this everyday, would have ran better supports, and a mud ring for the faceplate, screw the anchors. Eliminate the rjs and place rack with patch panel with better cable management more user friendly and upgradable
yeah the face plate install is mickey mouse.
Having spent a lot of time in my own attic doing the same type of job as you did. I always carried a knee board to span the rafters. It makes the work much easier and you don't have to worry about keeping your balance on top of 2 by 4's. Just cut a piece of 1/2" plywood large enough to cover a span of two joists. Another remedy is never work in a attic that is over 90 degrees. Between sweat running into your eyes and the insulation sticking to your skin, it can make it quite miserable to work around. Plan your attic work at after 10:00PM and finish before 8:00AM. to beat the heat.
Great advice thanks. I'm doing more wire drops soon so this will come in handy!! Thanks for watching!
Before going into an attic on a warm sunny day, wetting down the entire roof with water will cause evaporative cooling and lower the attic temperatures, better yet pick a rainy day to do that work.
@@RayleighCriterion That is a good idea but in Las Vegas it rains once every 2 months or so. Last year it didn't rain for 5 months....ugh. I can't wet my roof down because we have solar panles. It was a fun project and it turned out great. I installed the 1 gang low voltage wall plate 2 weeks later and that video will be up next week. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well!
Tried this in Texas, but the heat was still unbearable in the middle of the night. You have to wait for winter sometimes. :(
Good tip with the kneeboard. I spent about 2 weeks doing floor demolition and insulation removal in an ancient attic, constantly balancing between joists. It gave me a really stubborn corn under a toe that took 4 or 5 months to get rid of.
This is an okay “weekend warrior” type install.. Pro tip: your electric recepticle will always be on a stud. Use the stud and install the cables/low voltage ring on the opposite side of the stud. Use an old work box, or Low Voltage ring.. do not screw the pate to the wall. Also, fish sticks/fish tape can come in handy for many walls.
Thank you for watching and I added the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video I made on the install.
ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
I'd also recommend if you have the wall open or unfinished to run a conduit instead since that way you can easily run new cables when you need them, like optical, coax or CAT6/7 over CAT5E
@@legoboy-ox2kx Absolutely I would run cat6a at a minimum if the walls where open even use conduit. This is a simple way for anyone to drop wires into a room. Thank you for watching.
You should also be supporting those cables so they aren't strained and stretching
An easy and very accurate way to locate exactly where you need to drop the line through the wall is to use a very small diameter wire on a drill. This would be something like the fine wire that used to keep insulation batting in place. Those are easily obtain at any big box store. Take and chuck the wire into a drill and drill up the ceiling adjacent to the location where you want to have the drop. Leave the wire up there and then go into the attic and find the wire. Patching the very small diameter hole that the wire makes is very easy and it will not be noticed. You can also use a stud finder to locate the space between the studs before you drill up with that wire. This ensures that you won’t hit a stud on the way down. This will also significantly reduce the amount of time you need to stay in a hot attic. Great video!
Thanks for the great information which is very valuable for future wire droppers!! Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!!
I came to the comments looking for this. Thank you
Thanks for the tip! When you say chuck the wire into the drill, do you mean instead of using a small drill bit, we use the wire instead in place of a bit?
Also, you're talking about using a stud finder to find studs above the ceiling drywall, right?
I wish I understood any of what you said. Sounds great but I have no clue
@@NahBNah You're not the only one that did not understand almost a word of what this comment is trying to say hahaha
You got extremely lucky finding the wire drop inside the wall space. Everytime I run a wire, a run a chase wire with it. Makes it very easy in case you want to drop TV/Cable coax. Also I lablel both ends of each wire, then draft out a schematic for final termination to a switch or router.
what is a chase wire?
@@brownclorox simply means tying some wire or twine to the new circuit wire. If you ever need to pull another wire/cable, you don't have to fish around for it. Tie new cable to chase then pull whatever other cable or wire you want to run to the same place
A few suggestions from a low voltage installer. Safety first. Wear a dust mask when in the attic or crawl space as you never know what is floating around. For a more professional job, a low-Voltage old work bracket should always be used, to attach the wall plate too, not a hole and drywall anchors. After running the wires, stuff insulation in the holes to act as a fire block per National Electrical Code. Low voltage wires should be run through the rafters/ truss framing and not laid direct on the ceiling or insulation and supported every 4 to 5 feet. I always terminate each end of the run into RJ45 keystone jacks or a patch panel and never use RJ45 plugs.
Here is my updated video on the low voltage gang wall plate install. I installed it about 3 weeks after I posted the video. Thank you for watching and for the valuable information.
ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
I appreciate the video! I’m a new telecom apprentice in the union and I’ve been looking at your videos, I’m not the brightest so I need explanations I can go back over and look at. These videos are great! Keep it up.
Thank you for the nice comments and I'm glad my videos are helping you in your business. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!
Would recommend to use a cut in ring for the faceplate so the machine screws have a proper mount, also you dont need to guess on the size, just trace the ring with a pencil to get your dimensions. Also makes a rectangular hole so you can get your hand inside the wall to grab the wires.
I just needed to know about installing the wall jack but I watched the whole video anyways. Great job!
I wish I lived in houses like this. Every example of network wire dropping are from newer builder grade suburbs type housing like this. I have lived in multiple states in multiple houses and new lived in anything like this. My current house was built in 1900 and does not have an attic like this (the attic is huge and has original hardwood floors in most of it) and is multi-story. Plus there is no drywall, it is all plaster and lathe boards. And the modem has to stay in the basement (made of crumbly field stone) so yeah... pulling for my house is going to be way more involved than these type of drops... But either way, thanks for sharing and I hope it was helpful for many folks :)
Everyone whos new to this kind of thing is thinking "where do I drill" and you didn't explain that very well. You just said you had to drill down a couple 2x4's. I think you should've gone over this a little more, otherwise excellent video!
Other people have said to poke a piece of wire (14ga, a nail, pin, whatever is tiny) through the ceiling, and you can see where in the top plate to drill.
And then plug the tiny hole (plaster, caulk, etc) after you're done.
Seal plates are your friends
so do we do cut out on the wall first?
I am Belkin Certified in the 90s. Had several tools like Cross Bows and remote control cars that we used to run guide wires.
Hell yeah! Perfect demonstration and excellent teaching my friend. Im confident that I just added a new skill to my Telecom repertoire.
Thanks for the kind comments! I have over a hundred home networking videos so make sure to check them out. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
I have been running patch cables between points. I used the female pass throughs that snaps into the keystone wall plate. Saves me from having to terminate the cables. There is always extra cable that way but you can tie that up in the attic and make it look better. Saves me time and it is easier.
My personal preference is to not use drywall mounting screws, instead, I would use a low-voltage mounting bracket. It's much cleaner, sturdier, and allows for better access behind the drywall.
I installed the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video link.
ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
Thank you for watching.
Cool to see this done in reverse (running cable in a finished home or as you say "wall fishing"). I just did all the low voltage/CAT6/CAT5e wiring for an entire Habitat For Humanity apartment project in Philly.
Nice!! Thanks for watching I really appreciate it.
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well. Have a great day!
Great video for the basics...but suggestion: label the cables in the closet so you know where they go if you ever have a problem or need to trace it back to another part of the house. Also, did you flat run the cables in attic across the 'attic floor' or did you sink them / protect them from being stepped on in any future attic visits?
I did flat runs for all the Cat6 cables. And I labeled all of my Network Cables. Here is the video I posted about a month ago.
ruclips.net/video/ka2g4XlcmeU/видео.html
Thanks for watching I really appreciate it. And thanks for the good advice.
This. I had my house prewired for ethernet during construction. Jackass low voltage contractor labeled absolutely nothing. So I have like 20 ports in my cabinet and no clue where 18 of them go.
@@jghall00 you need a network tracer tool set -- one end sends a signal on the LAN jack and you go with the other one and test all the known ports in the house. A bit of work for 1 but it can help!
@@roadrunr92 I bought ine last week. The other problem is half the ports in the closet aren't terminated either. Have to find my crimp tool...
@@jghall00 Instead of crimping purchase and mount a small patch panel and punch down the wires on the back. Then use short patch cables to go from the patch panel to your devices.
Exactly what running cables is like in a nutshell. With different job sites require different methods of feeding cables into walls for a wall outlet. Sometimes if theres no choice, theres always ducting. Also it's always good practice to have the right tool for the right job. Makes the work soo much easier. But if your tools are limited, that's where experience comes into play. Really enjoyed watching this video. 🤙🏼Techy life!
Thanks for the great comments. Here is the video update of this install. I added the low voltage gang wall plate.
ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
Thank you for watching!
I would recommend using low voltage frames for mounting the faceplate. If you're always careful, not accident prone, or don't have kids, then this works great. But low voltage frames really help keeping everything secure, and prevent a lot of potential drywall patches.
I installed the low voltage bracket a few weeks later. Here is the video of the install. ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
No matter the reason, low volt frames are the only way to go. Plastic wall anchors are not a good idea for anything. They fail often in many ways.
Very easy to follow, but equally very technical!
Thank you for watching and glad you enjoyed it!
Hopefully my dad allows me to do this :P I am practicing CompTia A+/N+. Thank you for the help. Subscribed and liked, I like the way you teach.
Extra Safety Tip - A tube of Tub and Tile Sealer (DAP) can meet and exceed some fire code regs buy creating a air tight seal around the faceplate. It bonds well to the plastic and the drywall. Using it like a gasket at the wall plate and the hole in the ceiling. You will want to seal it to prevent not only air movement, but bug infestation as well.
Thanks for the great idea. I will implement that for sure. Thank you for watching and for commenting!
@@UltimateTechHub ants are a real threat to a comfortable home these days lol. I cant stand them, and they will come in anywhere they can.
@@trs-80fanclub12 Ants will find a way in no matter what you seal your faceplate with. The way to get rid of ants isn't to try and seal every millimeter in your house (an impossible task), but to get rid of any issues that attract ants, like rotting trash, etc. The wall plate sealing sounds like a stupid idea to me.
@@user-nh3gu1ge3d Air penetration into walls is not allowed by most fire codes. The sealer is a cheap and affordable way to be compliant.
That sounds like a silly idea for the faceplate, but a great idea for sealing the hole drilled through the top-plate in the attic.
2023, still finding this useful :)
Thanks for watching I really appreciate it!
Thank you brother for comprehensive video.
Thanks for watching I really appreciate it! Here is the video update for the low voltage bracket install.
ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
Lol. Love it. I still want to upgrade my Cat5 to Cat 6 HELP!!!!!
Most important thing that isn't repeated in these comments is the importance of suspending bundles. You want to mount the bundles up beside the truss members, not on the bottom to avoid them being bumped, snagged, etc. This also makes them much more pleasant to work around for you or any contractors (HVAC, Insulation, etc) that may have to work up there. A cheap and easy method is to go to homedepot and buy a few bags of 1" mounting bases, a couple bags of 4" max diameter cable ties and a few boxes of zinc #8x1.5" wood screws. The bases have adhesive backing, stick them to the sides of your joists with the openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 oclock, run a fastener in them, cable tie goes tail up so that when you fasten them you pull the tail down.
A few words of advice, cable ties are not for lashing things down to weather a hurricane. The tie only needs to be tight enough that the bundle is free of separation, as soon as the tie is contacting the entire bundle circumference you can stop tightening. Use a cable tie torque gun like the Panduit GTS-E or the cheap IDEAL version and set it to torque setting 0-3. I like to bore diagonal paths through the joists of my trusses to minimize the amount of low hanging looms.
Thumbs up for this video for the information and the fact I have the same Cobra Kai shirt. 😂
Lol! Thank you for watching!
I am about to do this project again but with CAT 8 Ethernet (so overkill [but why not]) With my new house. I am going to centralize cables on a small wall mounted server rack in my garage which already has a dehumidifier built in. Loved your wall plate idea, I might borrow that idea. Last time I tore up way to much dry wall installing stud attached wall boxes that I screwed in the wall plates in.
Cat8 is definitely overkill but I love it!!! Go for it! I ended up installing a low voltage gang wall bracket a few weeks later. They are super easy to install and the only reason I didn't in the video was because I didn't want to drive 12 miles to get one. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
I enjoy watching these types of videos. I would love to run ethernet in my home. I'm going to have to run a direct line to the ONT FIOS unit if I want to increase my speed. I'll do it then. I'll probably hire someone to do it. Not that I couldn't do it myself, but the older I get I've come to realize what is my time worth to me. A professional could do it in less than half the time it would take me. Maybe if I was 10 years younger.
Absolutely correct, trading time for money is very smart. If a pro can install the wires in 2 hours and you can install the wires in 4 hours its probably worth just paying a pro. However if you enjoy doing some hands on DYI projects this project is a lot of fun. But don't try this in the summer months. My attic was around 100 degrees and that caused me to take many breaks. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!!
Don't forget about the possibility of firebreaks in the wall cavity. You may need a long drill bit to drill through the firebreak also.
I agree 100 percent. I got lucky with no fire breaks in that particular wall. Thanks for watching!
Yep, makes it a significantly more difficult job. Just went through this myself. Unless you happen to have a lucky perfect downward angle from the attic, you'll be stuck bending the long drill bit either from the top or bottom and it might be difficult to get it to drill without binding.
haha that was fun
@@sweepingdenver Especially if you don't build your home or know the scematics of your home build so you can add the conduit, this is not a simple task with firebreaks as you said and requires alot more work.
Yep, a long flex bit is a must for this type of work
Thanks fur your great video on Cat5/6 cable and faceplate routing. I also do this many times so I'd like to highlight some questions that your viewers may ask. 1. How do you make sure the faceplate is vertically aligned with the attic drilled hole that feeds the network cable? I either use a signal injector and radio receiver to trace the wire. Or I drill a small pilot hole at the location of the attic network cable entry. Then I drop a plumb line to vertically align the attic network cable entry into the wall. Then I patch this smell hole I used for the top of the plumbline. 2. Using a network cable checker. Maybe you can introduce the network cable checker and do it in another video. 3. Sometimes the RJ-45 and CAT wires do not properly run to the end of the connector to get a good crimp. The new RG-45 connectors allow a pass through of individual wires, 8 of them , to exit out of the connector that will guarantee crimping. But this needs a precise wire cutters to closely cut off the excess wires. Thanks again for your video.
Great information and thank you for sharing with my viewers. Thank you for watching!
This video was a big help. Thank you
Thanks for the help, last night I did this, I spent about 4 hours in the attic alone XD. I don’t know if you mentioned it in the video, but cat 6 needs to be away from all electric cables
Great video, unfortunately I do not have a central network panel at home. Do you have any video about installing it or do you recommend get prof to install it?
I'm going to be uploading a small network panel installation video in the next 3 or 4 weeks so keep an eye out. You could also just hire a low voltage installer to install the panel. Thanks for watching!
Great video.
Thanks for sharing.
New subscriber here from Philadelphia PA
Awesome!! Thank you for the sub!! I was in Philadelphia about 8 years ago and we had fun. We went to Pat's for a cheese steak!! Thanks again!
Very informative. I think I’d get up in the attic and not know where my wall is. Also if I found the wall I probably wouldn’t know where to drill for them once I got back downstairs. 😅
It takes quite a bit of preparation and planning. I measured several times inside my house to determine where the correct wall drop location was. I would recommend doing this in the winter or fall. The attic got too hot. Thank you for watching and for commenting!
I ran ethernet cables in my previous home. (Current home has low roof and hard to get around; would like to run some here but would have to just about crawl on my belly) I found a good way to see where to drill in the attic is to determine what part of the wall you want the cable to come down, then get a heavy piece of wire about a foot long and push it through the ceiling drywall only about an inch away from the wall. Then go up to the attic and look for the wire sticking up. Then drill your hole 2-3 inches over from the wire through the faceplate.
@@scottwski that's a good way to do it. In my situation it would have an issue with wire because the ceiling had a kick out that might have prevented the wire from going up. Just be careful in the attic and take your time. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
You did an excellent job walking us through this. Plenty of anxiety involved with the process, but the detailed walkthrough gave me the confidence to move forward! Any recommendations with cables?
If you don't expect to get more than 1 gig speeds from your ISP then cat6 riser cable would be perfect. Cat5e works as well but the price difference is minimal. Cat6 bandwidth is higher so you can have more users on the network without losing speed. I have several videos on which cable types to use so make sure to watch them for a full understanding of all the ethernet types. Thank you for watching and good luck. Keep me posted if you have any issues.
Great video! Simple and easy to follow. The only thing I think you missed was how to determine the length of the cables.
I know sorry about the length part. I filmed it but forgot to add it. What I did was run 2 cables from the front room to the back sliding door which is about 80 feet. That was how I determined the approximate length. Probably could have gone with 60 feet but you never want to run short on these drops. Thanks for watching I really appreciate it!
Great job, man!
@ShroomieForPrez Thank you I really appreciate it !
When buying keystones and wall plates its a good idea to make sure they are the same brand. Although they should be universal, mixing brands doesn't always work well, and the keystones will pop out of the plate when you're plugging something in.
True that could happen but I've never come across that issue. Thanks for the great information and thanks for watching!
Great video with some great information. The awkward pauses between words in the VO kinda kills the pacing though (constructive criticism, still REALLY appreciate the video). Thanks for the help!
What crimping tool do you use? I haven't seen that pass-through style terminal before! It looks so much easier than the non-pass-through terminals!
It's the EZ crimper that works with thr RJ45 pass through connectors. All these tools are linked in my description and are available for purchase. And yes it makes it super easy to make patch cables. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Good product for ur money saves u in making ur own leaders with it
Great video, very clear!
Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Great video, nice channel just subscribed!
Thank you for subscribing and glad you like the video. I've got over a hundred videos on Home Networking so make sure to check them out when you get a chance. Thanks again.
Nice video I'm gonna do this in a few days in my master bedroom on the second floor. Also have you ever seen a house with 2 attics? Cause mine has one in the garage and one on the second floor so which one should I do the drop in?
It depends on the location of your drop. I would drop where it's the easiest and most convenient. Thank you for watching!
In the olden days you only needed a cave and a campfire ;-)
I miss those simple days! Lol
Love the shirt!!! 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thanks!!
Appreciate the help brotha!
Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
I didn't climb up into my attic. Instead, I ran the cables up from the basement. It seems a lot easier than to use go through all that insulation, not to mention the heat. I did cut a rectangular hole in the wall to put in a old work box. It seemed much easier than using molys to hold the wall plate like you did. And I can open it up and put a larger wall plate if I need to add a coax run.
I installed the low voltage box about 3 weeks after the video posted. Here is the installation video.
ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
i use white wallplates with blue keystone couplers. just because blue jacks look nice for internet.
fwiw, you have the easiest attic space to run wire. :)
It is pretty easy to move around but summer time its about 110 degrees! Ugh! Thanks for watching!
Better to drop from the attic crawlspace or go up from the 2” high floor dirt crawlspace ?
Is water a concern? Do you need to make a conduit run out of pvc ?
Attic crawl space is your best bet. You have more flexibility and options. Water is not a concern when dropping wires into walls. If there is water in your walls then you have a big problem! Conduit would be used for outdoors when running wires to a separate building. PVC pipe would work as conduit. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Informative video 👍🏻
Thanks 🙂
Great video! I have a weird scenario, where my house has a run where I need it, BUT I want to upgrade it to CAT6 for 10Gbe. Do you have a video where it shows how (easily?) I can pull a CAT6 thru where the Cat5 is currently?
I don't have a video on that technique yet. But it should be easy. If you know where the cat5e starts and ends just disconnect the cat5e from the wall jack and tie a cat6a ethernet cable to the end of the cat5e. Make sure you have enough cat6a for the entire run and then pull the cat5e from the other end and the cat6a will get pulled all the way through. You may have to go into the attic if the cat6a gets stuck or caught on a beam or other attic stuff. Good luck and keep me posted. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
This is the easiest example of running wires. People watch a video like this, make a valiant attempt, then call someone like me.
I try to keep is simple. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
Where you located lol 😅
Tip of the day. Find your local electrical supplier that sells C6 cable. Mine is Greybar electric. Call and ask for the "will-call" desk and ask if they have any CAT6 remnants. 1000' boxes of cable get damaged so they open them up and salvage what they can and sell at a deep discount. A must have tool is a set of glow rods. Order a cheap set from Amazon. This tool does not care about insulation and will penetrate easily down through the wall. Throw your heavy bolt away. As some have commented you do not use RJ45's on solid strand copper. You will need a CAT6 patch panel and a punch tool for installation. These 2 items will set you back about 50 bucks for both on Amazon. Always use drywall remodel brackets for the jack plate cut in. Last thing. If your arsenal of tools is a box cutter, a hammer, and 2 screwdrivers sitting on a shelf in your garage and you are going to get your buddy's cordless drill. Don't try this. you will end up breaking things in your house. Good luck out there.
Thanks for the great information I appreciate it. I installed the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video I made.
ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
I have a punch down tool but I wanted to show how to do this job with minimal tools and supplies. The bolt on a string does work great and I've used it for dozens of wire drops. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
I have the same network box, what do you use to attach the equipment inside? I have an Orbi and will be adding a 4 port hub/switch.
You can use a sheet of plastic that's cut to fit inside the box. Simply drill holes in the plastic sheet where you want to attach your devices and attach them using velcro straps or zip ties. They also make brackets for these boxes. Here is the video link for that product.
ruclips.net/video/nytwwY_JR2s/видео.html
Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well. Keep me posted!
The problem I have run into is the “Fire Blocks” between the studs. Some are smaller than the wall studs, which makes it easy to get the wires down the wall. But, when they are the same size, it not a fun or enjoyable to drill through them. Or, need to move the wall plates to a different location which changes everything.
Yes fireblocks are annoying. Most inside walls don't have them. But some builders add them in random areas. My house has very few fireblocks and most are on the outside facing walls. Use a simple stud finder to locate the fireblocks. They do make a very long drill bit for these situations. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
I Love How Simple Yet Super Informative Your Videos Are Keep Up The Good Work Homie
Thank you for watching and for commenting I appreciate it.
Great video! What if I need to do this kind of work up in the attic with drilling and feeding cable, but my internet comes in through the basement? There is a 2 x 4 to drill though in the attic to feed cable between the wall like in this video, but is there going to be another hole I need to drill to feed cable from the first floor to the basement?
Question: I bought Cat 5-6 Wall plate that has the front side female opening. The backside also has the same female cat 5 connector(i guess so that you can just plug a patch cable and run to the other wall jack) If I use a standard (already terminated) Cat 5 cable will the wiring need reversed at some point? Hope that was not confusing.
If I'm understanding correctly, I believe you just plug the patch cable in and everything should work just fine. It sounds like a wall plate with pre-installed cat5 female adapters. It should work no problems.
Do you have any tips on dropping wires neatly if you have a finished attic? We're trying to avoid a bunch of cable mess.
Can you do this if your attic has plywood floor over joists? Should I instead try to run the wiring thru the crawl space?
I would try to run it the easiest way possible. You can drill through the plywood into the joists to run the ethernet. Maybe try doing one ethernet run that way and see how it goes first. Then determine if its better to run through the crawl space. Keep me posted!
Pro Tips. #1. Cut horizontally first so if by chance you hit a stud, you can cut the rest of the length in the opposite direction of the stud.
#2 Always use pull string with your runs in case you need to add lines in the future.
I did pull string but the string dropped through the hole accidentally....Lol. I do have 2 cables so on can act as the string. Thanks for the 2 pro tips and thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub thanks. Any time!
@@UltimateTechHub if you ever get in a real pinch, you can power two devices with 1 cable (2 pairs-white orange, orange, white green, green) for one device and the last pairs (blue, white blue, white brown, brown) for the second device. Just wire the 2 RJ45s at each end of the 1 line as if your only using white orange, orange, white green, green and put them where you normally would, skipping all the missing pairs.
@@shawnphillips1220 Thanks for the tip!!!
Nicely done!
Thank you for watching!
Whats that black tool you used at @9:27 to push the wires into the CAT6 keystone connector? Are those usually included with those connectors? Would a flat heat work?
It's a punch down tool. It comes with all keystone jacks. Don't use a flat head it will break it. Feel free to ask me any questions I answer all comments. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Just wonderful
Awesome work
Thanks for watching Richard!
❤️ All OF Your Videos
Thank you, we appreciate it!!!
Hey, nice video man! Just wondering if all that equipment is running on a single 120 circuit?
Thank you for putting this video online :)
This is great!
Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Great video! What kind of network coms wall box do you have?
On Q-Legrand. My last 2 homes had the same brand of Networking panels. Here is a video about both of these panels.
ruclips.net/video/XiGSrbk633M/видео.html
Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub You're awesome! Thank you very much! I'm putting together a buying list so I can upgrade my home network. Thanks again for the quick response. Also I'm subbing :)
@@Divel11 Thank you for the kind comments I really appreciate it. Here is a video that discusses Home Networking Build Costs which should help you with your Home Network.
ruclips.net/video/ZwEqyVxsKpc/видео.html
What’s that little black plastic wrench looking thing that you used to clamp the wires into the keystone jack . I need that .
It's the punch down tool that comes with the keystone jack. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
How da fudge sickle pop did you drill into the drywall and know the wires you dropped were there? I feel like I would be drilling holes everywhere to find em
Lol! I've wire dropped so many network cables I just know where it will end up in the wall. And I also measure where I drill the hole in the attic and then measure the exact distance at the bottom of the wall and that usually works perfectly. I just uploaded a new cat6 cable run video so make sure to check it out! Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!
Great for single story or only going down one floor but how to handle two story drops?
Very tricky and it will require cutting some holes in the drywall. I will make a video on this subject soon. It's way too much information for me to explain in the comment section.
Must be a dangerous job when running cable, while crawling over raptors... Hats off to you..!
There are many situations where you cannot run cables, so I suggest you look in to Mesh APs, so long as your devices support wifi...
One AP is connected via Ethernet cable (Wired node), while the other APs (Mesh nodes) and power by an adapter in a location that needs improved coverage.
The Mesh AP will wireless back-haul via 5ghz and complete the connection... This will provide extended range, with adding cable...
I have a Netgear WAX 630 AP in the middle of our house. It's a PoE++ AP that's connected VIA a cat6a to our RUCKUS PoE switch. WiFi in our home is excellent but I prefer wired connections for gaming and streaming its just more reliable. Thank you for the great information and for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub You're welcome... I've been in the WiFi industry for 20 years and supported a number of WiFi commercial solutions... ;-)
I've just deployed the Aruba InstantOn 1930 POE switch and AP12 AP11D APs in my house, and really like the solution..
Yes, I Ialso have 2 cable runs dedicated to the TVs that are located in the living room and Master bed room...
1 AP12 upstairs hallway, 1 AP12 downstairs and 1 AP11D located in my office space that also has 4 Ethernet ports for wired devices...
@@davesradiorepairs6344 Sounds like a fantastic setup!
Dude dropped Cat5e all over my new home build and then had to drop Cat6 cause that’s what we wanted. Hopefully they wire the Cat6 the faceplates and don’t mess up again.
Those push jacks are awful. You can get jacks that you plug rj45s on the back that are more reliable. Could even get 50ft cables so you don't even need to do the connector work, although more expensive than adding connectors yourself. I love how wires magically pull through the first time...are you sure that wasn't the 2nd or 3rd take, lol.
Why not run coax too?
I thought the inner 2x4’s also had runners going horizontally. Did your taped cat cables just go on the side of them? Like between them and the wall?
Those horizontal 2x4s are called firestops and most homes have them on outside facing walls. This particular wall is an inside facing wall with no firestops. Sometimes inside walls can have them but not very often. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub yes sir. We are having our home built as we speak. I walk thru it all the time. Every room but 2 bedrooms are internet ready. So much for a real smart house. So I have to run the cat from the hub to the front bedroom that will be my work office. During the build I seen them put the insulation between the 2x4’s spaces about 18” apart. But they also but the runners in there too so the runners are about mid way up but staggered between the walls. Meaning each wall had them and middle of one set them about 100 higher the space over for the runners then next space back to the middle and so on. I am thinking it won’t be so easy to run the cat. It looks as if the runners are holding up the insulation midway. (But of course the Sheetrock/drywall will do that.
10 inches not 100. But staggered all the way across the wall n
Is there supposed to be fire blocking around the cables? Or something to seal the hole in the attic?
No fireblock around the cables. Some walls have fireblocks but this wall did not have one. The hole in the attic was only big enough for the 2 wires so it's not an issue. Thank you for watching.
@@UltimateTechHub thanks for the reply
WHY does it seem like no one has basements but me, and all of the tutorial people only have attics?! Must be nice!
Yes having an Attic is super convenient.
I'm watching this even though I don't even live in America, I have brick walls in my house and my ethernet cables are already installed.
Great video but got any recommendations for brick/ old cottages? Sometimes no cavity. Can never get people to agree to wires showing but no way to run cable unless chasing out. Any tips? Work in telecoms in the UK.
The way I would run the wires from the ceiling is in the corner of the wall. Use a low profile conduit for the wire(s) to run through and run it to the floor. Use more conduit to run to the desired location. Also run wires from one room to an adjacent room using a masonry bit to drill through the brick wall. That's my best advice. Thank you for watching and keep me posted.
Hi. Great video. I wanted to get thoughts on running the cables UP front the basement as opposed to DOWN from the attic. I want to wire my home, and up from the basement seems easiest for me since my basement is unfinished at this time. Any issues with this approach? Thanks!
It should be pretty easy since the basement is unfinished. Just drill a hole from the first floor to the basement to run the wires. Good luck and keep me posted. Thank you for watching.
@@UltimateTechHub you're welcome. And thanks so much for your quick reply!
Awesome. So what did you do with all the extra wire in the attic?
Just left it siting on the attic floor. It wasn't much extra. Thank you for watching.
Moved into a House built in 74 last year. Haven't got to it yet but I plan to place a wall mounted 12U server rack in the closet of the room we made the Office. but Sadly while I know how to do things like line drops my weight makes me hesitant to DIY so I will either have to conscript the step son to do the attic/Crawl space work or pay someone to come out for it. I am hesitant to call someone out since the guy Comcast sent out did a half A** job of it by just drilling through the floor to run the cables instead of running them in the wall like they should be.
Yep the internet companies like Comcast and Cox do a terrible job of running wires. They take the easiest way possible which always looks like sh%t. If you lived in Las Vegas I could recommend some great installers. If your step son can do the drops that would be a great learning experience for him. I have several wire drop videos so make sure to watch them and have your step son watch them too. Good luck and keep me posted. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
can we setup a POE flex on attic and add more lines cat6 ? so you don't have to run the wires all the way to switch/router
Yes you can. I have thought of that as well. I may do a video on that situation soon. Thanks for the great question and for watching my video!
Well done #UltimateTechHub Gread video, great footage and very encouraging to Newbies.
I'm in Western Australia so our roofs get to 140F in summer. Our houses are all Double Brick with an air gap, so its easy to drop Cat 6. Suggestion for a video: 568A Vs 568B - Why one over the other. Also distances between Power cables and Data cables. Keep up the excellent work.
P.S. Ive long ago wired my house for Cat 6 and Audio
one tip you can do is get some rg 6 cable and strip the wire to have a long copper wire, stick that copper closest to the wall that way when your in attic your able to locate the wall and copper makes a minor hole that barely visible
VERY NICE THANKS
Thank you for watching! Here is the video I did on the low voltage gang bracket that I didn't show in this video.
ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
Do you have a video in which you installed the network box into the wall?
I'm sorry I do not. Maybe in the future. Thank you for watching!
For Pros or multiple drops... a tool called Magnespot helps locate the exact spot to drill from the attic. For only a couple drops, grab a long 1/4 drill bit and drill up thru the ceiling at the drop point. You can see the bit in the attic. A little spackle hides the tiny hole. No guessing.
Also, using old work low voltage brackets let's you cut a bigger hole and is a more secure attachment point for the wall plate. $2 at home depot.
Here is the video link to the low voltage gang bracket installation.
ruclips.net/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/видео.html
Very Helpful, Thanks
Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
I know this video is late and you probably won't reply but I'm a complete newbie to this. Basically when we got our house built we did get cables installed in every room but it was just the TV cable unfortunately so I'll have to rewire the cat-6 into my room. I just wanted to ask that if I directly just plug my the cat 6 cable into my modem which then goes to my room as a wall jack plug where I'll plug in another ethernet cable to connect to my computer. Do I necessarily have to plug the cable into a router and then into a modem for it work or my previous mentioned method will work just fine? If somebody has information, please let me know. It'll be very appreciated
Yes that would work going from modem to computer. However that means you have only one device in your network. Also make sure your computer has anti virus software and the firewall needs to be turned on.
Love the video. Awesome
Thank you for watching!
that was an easy one. try one with spray foam insulation and 2x4's going horizontally midway down the wall for whatever reason
That sounds a bit more difficult. I guess I got lucky. Lol! Thank you for watching!
@@UltimateTechHub yea those are the ones where you really try to talk the customer into wifi.. lol. Rock face is another pain in the butt.