Couple tips. Stagger your cables when taping them to fish tapes and tape a cone shape up to the fish tape itself, makes it a way smoother pulling experience. Invest in some drag line. 😂
Was reacting the same way as you, it could also be other factors to staggering, but nice to make it as routine to both secure the cables properly to the fishing rod end, normaly i dont trust alone, like to cut off the sheating and make a small knot also with 2 pairs.
you can cut the tip/end of the cable on an angle along with the staggering of the cables and it'll naturally cause the cone shape and pull easily up the wall without getting snagged on anything
Great video of your install. If you haven’t already, I’d also recommend creating a MAC filter on any switch port that has a cable going to the outside of the house. If by weird chance someone does get to your outside camera and hooks up to the Cat6 going into it, they have open access to your home network. With a MAC filter and adding only your MAC address of your UniFi camera, you’ll eliminate that possibility.
Just turn on port isolation. I have that turned on for all my cameras and put them on their own VLAN. Then firewall rules so that only the NVR is on the default network.
Those cardboards "blocking the soffit" are actually your ventilation baffles. You need these to direct the air upwards from the soffits rather flowing through the attic, causing havoc to the spray in insulation and reducing the insulation near the soffits.
7:10 - top tip....'taper' your cable ends so theres a more smoother transition when pulling up multiple cables. It avoids snagging in the wall on anything and the hole at the top.
Definitely taper or stagger (the term we use) the cables like Allister suggests but what I also do is cut all my cable ends on an angle which makes a nice smooth head when you stagger the cables.
The Excess Cable you "Cut Back" should've been pushed back into the wall as a "Service Loop" so if you ever needed to move the wall plate in the future, you could. All in all, great work!
In my experience passthrough connectors are not the best. 2 piece connectors use a passthrough "loading bar" that's cut flush then inserted inside the connector. This ensures no wires protrude out of the connector end causing unreliable connections. The best connectors have a 3rd piece to separate the 4 twisted pairs and maintains the twist right up against the termination points inside the connector. It's more steps to terminate but is the best possible connection with the least amount of signal loss. Some high end AV equipment like certain control systems specifically state to never use passthrough connectors.
Always run a pull string with your cables. This way of you ever need to run a new cable, simply tie into the pull string, making sure to run a new pull string with the new cable. I typically run a string down with each drops as well, for any future need
Also helps to tape a label to the string with the length of the run. Can help order the right length if you need to run a pre-terminated cable in the future, like a fiber patch in the future.
Alternate way of running the cables in your walls. Get a spool of string and run it, maybe 2, with the first cable then just tape new wires and pull string through, could also leave a string in wall for future pulls.
Some things I noticed and have probably already been mentioned. Those cardboard barriers are critical. They are soffit vent deflectors and the protect your soffit vents form being covered with insulation. You need to go up there and make sure your vents are clear. it isn't necessary to install new ones if you have missing ones as long as you aren't going to be adding insulation. Second, use a stud finder to locate the studs. Much more accurate. It's your house so not that important, but if you were doing this at a friends house or a customers house, get a small shop vac. Use the shop vac next to your drywall saw when cutting to keep the amount of debris on the floor minimal. Use a reel to pull the tape, if you don't have one, figure 8 the cable on the floor before pulling. It will pull much easier and you won't damage the cable or the wall. Caulk all penetrations into attic or that lead to the outside. Use the appropriate caulk. Typically, fire code requires a fire rated caulk to be used if you are going through any fire barriers as well, so keep that in mind. Use bushings when pulling through an exterior wall or soffit. It will protect your cable.
Pull strings work great when having to pull multiple cables through the same hole. I always leave an extra string in after the job is done just in case I have do another pull in the future.
Several improvements on your technique. 1) Any penetrations from your heated space into the attic need to be calked to block air leakage The air leakage can cause significant cold spots in your wall and possible condensation in the wall during the heating season. 2) Label your cables before pulling them so you can identify each run 3) At the very least, wire map each run to validate the runs 4) label you r wall jack and your server patch panel
Next time pull that slack up in the attic as a safety loop and attach to the support beam for future issues. Either side might go bad or damaged so you always want to leave slack. As for future pulls if you want to pull multiple lines there are two methods so it doesn't get knotted while pulling. You can wrap it around the cat6 spool and bring a ladder in to allow it to easily spool out or you can tape around 5-6 feet to keep it clean. Either will work.
18:16 We also sometimes have problems with RJ-45 plugs, I found out that some plugs are only compatible with stranded wire. And most often we use solid wire for fixed connections like in walls.
I'm thinking about just using the coax the previous owner has in every room (from Dish and cable) with Moca.. just switched to fiber (waiting in line for home install)..
Moca is a great simple easy thing to do. Most of the time I just recommend that to folks over running wire because it's cost effective and most people don't watch cable tv anyway.
You won’t get tetanus from it, just scratches and cuts. Tetanus comes from bacteria found on the ground and not rust like many think. Bump caps are worth it though in keeping your noggin scratch free
Use a magnespot, has a little sharp in with a bunch of magnets attached. Then a locater one uses from other side. Can locate within 2" or so. No holes to patch, paint to touch up etc...and they're cheap
CAT6A, man I feel for you. After running many parts of my house with CAT6 where I couldn't feel my fingers in the end, with CAT6A being a thicker cable, you were in a world of pain lol. Seriously doing SOLID cable termination is a pain compared to stranded but there is no choice when you are putting anything in the walls as per fire code at least here in Canada. Really good to give yourself a lot more cable than you need on each end; I was glad I did. When you terminate a cable it doesn't always work out, I had to redo that 2 to 4 times at times on 1 end just to have a proper termination.
Bruh, I had an hour and 58 minutes of video, mostly terminating. My hands and fingers had so many cuts from nails and splintered wood, so holding those tiny wires to slide them into the RJ45 connector was brutal. And I only did it 6 times. The reason the video just seems to jump from TV to 2 outdoor runs is because I was just so over lugging the camera up and down the ladder to the attic lol. Most of the video was uninteresting too, I think. Just pulling and pushing cable around.
And as an IT contractor, Cat6A was a terrible choice anyway. I know he got it for free so I guess in that regard it makes sense but from a choice standpoint, a 4k UHD stream is around 25 Mbps. Most smart TVs only have a 100 Mbps NIC anyway. Cat5e is already 10x overkill for that. Then stepping up to Cat6, you can get gigabit, and even 10 gigabit up for 40 meters, which would be 100x overkill. Then stepping up again to A would simply give a longer range, 100 meters, on that pointless 10 Gbps. So many people online say to "future proof" and buy the biggest, most expensive cable, but that's really dumb. 5e is fine for 99% of end user applications, 6 is overkill. 6a is just double overkill. And when you consider that 5e has been around for over 20 years, and is STILL overkill for most end user things, if puts into perspective just how useless your "overkill" solution really is. Again, if I'm getting the cable for free I'll use it, but there's absolutely zero reason to buy it. It just hurts your wallet and is a harder job for the exact same performance.
@@user-nh3gu1ge3d I went with CAT6 in my home because it wasn't that much more expensive over CAT5E and that way my house if secured for 10GB in the future if I want to. You are right in saying it is overkill maybe for the next 5 to 10 years until you start getting devices capable of 8K. But I mean that will take a hell of a lot of time before we get there. Do you need 10GB right now in homes? Probably not, it is too expensive anyway. I think the next logical step is 2.5gb for homes and that would be good for people who need it. But the problem is that there are not many products out there for 2.5Gb. I haven't seen a single 24 ports 2.5gb switch yet. As an IT contractor, you most have installed plenty of cable right? I have a question for you. As per code, running wires in walls require PLENUM cable. So I'm using CAT6 plenum. But I was often faced with issues doing my termination, in preparing the wires, it would happen once in a while one of the wires would break!! Is that something common?
@@ptessier73 I actually ran Cat6 in my house as well, but for reasons similar to yours. It's definitely overkill. Even 5e is overkill for 99% of end user devices. Your smart devices, cameras, etc. are all 100 Mbps max so even cat5 would be fine. But I typically have 10 boxes of cable on hand and, before CV screwed everything up, the difference in price was only like 25 bucks or so (around 125 vs 150 bucks for 1k ft). I also felt a little better about using a thicker gauge wire for POE, though I'm sure there's no real difference. 6 is also more tightly wound so better for cross talk and things like that, but you shouldn't really have that issue anyway. If you're laying your wiring on top of florescent lights, then that's an install issue anyway. And even 8k streams will only use about 100 Mbps, so again, there's just no reason for it most of the time. 10 gig is good for mass devices, infrastructure like switches, servers that serve multiple/many clients, huge data transfers like video editing. The bandwidth required for even the highest definition streaming is minimal, audio is nothing, gaming is nothing, etc. Basically the most common thing that needs gig to 10 gig is video editing and huge file transfers, like if you are moving around 100 gig files, stuff like that. Even moving 100 gigs on a cat5e will "only" take a minute and a half so not that bad. When you go 10 gig then you need MASSIVE infra spending because you've got to upgrade every switch in the chain, every NIC, every device. If ANY device is slow then it will bottleneck the whole thing. Even your standard HDD is only around 150 MB/s so that can't even keep up with a 10 gig cable. That can barely saturate a 1 gig line. So you'll have to use solid state storage and if you're working with 100 gig files, that means you need tons and tons of space, like 50-100 TB of solid state hard drives, and you need redundancy, etc. you're talking about tens of thousands of dollars per server like that, thousands on switching, etc. The most that a "pro-sumer" like me would do at home would be a direct connect from a cheaper server to a PC, with a small, single digit 10 gig switch, and just let the HDD RAID be the bottleneck. Very fast but not "large enterprise" fast. As to your question about the plenum, almost all the cable I run is "riser" not plenum. Plenum costs way more and is only used for plenum spaces, to put it simply, air circulation. You don't have to use plenum in walls or ceilings or pretty much anywhere UNLESS it's inside an air duct or certain ceiling air spaces (like if you have drop ceilings that have air supply or returns that will suck in the air from that space). Long story short, it's again one of those "almost never" things. I know the Safety Sally's will come out of the woodwork and tell me how wrong I am and blah blah blah but I'm telling you. I worked in a data center before and we used many vendors and whenever we got quoted runs, it was always riser cable. You had to specifically ask for plenum and then it would be vastly more expensive. YMMV. It's the same cable, it's just the sheathing is slightly less toxic when it burns. But guess what, smoke is toxic 😆! Whatever you're burning, if you're breathing that in, you're in for a bad time. I get it if it's in an air vent or whatever but like I said, in most cases it doesn't make a noticeable difference. You may have company or insurance requirements though, they may require you to run plenum in the ceilings for liability purposes but we never did. Maybe we are a bit too "cowboy", I dunno. And finally, to answer your question about the wire breaking, it sounds like you scored the sheathing a bit too deep. If you cut around the sheathing and dig too deep, it cuts into the copper wire and absolutely, it will snap off. Hope that answers your question. Whew!
Network Admin here: some RJ45 caps will not work with certain termination tools. For best results - match Klein brand termination tools to Klein brand pass through RJ45 heads. Everything can look right if you mix and match (and may even completely work for certain combinations) but will fail a cable certification which means your end device will not form a successful connection with your network.
I have Cat 5e in all the rooms in my house. Would like to upgrade, but no easy way to do it other than all over again. All my Cat 5e is stapled to the studs.
I don't see a need for plenum rated cable since none of it was run in a plenum. Attics in houses are normally not plenums, and you can see he has typical supply and return ducts.
NOTES: Suggestions from 4 decades of Cable Pulling (Electrical and Low Voltage) 1.) Drill Holes correct diameter to Pull Maximum # cables (like 4, your TV pull) 2.) Use Pull Strings for Future Proofing (later cable pulls) 3.) 500 and 1000 foot spools of Category 6a UTP usually length marks on outer jacket, use that feature to determine length of that TV to Patch Panel cable. - Fire Caulking already mentioned. I have watched Cable Crews fired, and one group brought to tears by Fire Inspectors. He had investigated a recent fire - lack of fire blocking help spread fire (and he showed them).
Yes I already knew when pulling at least three cables you were gonna have them tangle on each other while pulling them and making a knot. Its honestly best to do that many drops in one area with 2 people or lay all that cable out flat across your house and even tape them in sections if you have to do it by yourself
Nice video, just a few points - You levelled the low level box to the top of the existing plate so when you fitted the plate it looks like it is slightly higher. I would not pull the cable off the side of the drum, either use a cable dispenser or even a broom handle through the drum. Do you not number the outlets
I used to pull wire for a smart home company we always just used electrical tape. It works just make sure its enough to hold not too much to be a pain that or have enough to just cut up the cable and have plenty to work with
The cardboard stuff is actually to keep your blown in insulation from blowing into the soffits and also direct air up along roof. PS what is the name of those push rods? Got a link you can add to description?
Idk if anyone mention this but the cables have measurement markings on it to help with that issue. So in your case after you ran the first one you can look at the measurement and go off that reading.
I’m on my 2nd roll of 1k foot of 6a. Fun winter project. I have 13 cameras and the 4 drive NVR. Also 2 of the outdoor LED motion lights. I’ll be hanging more of them as I really do like them.
A little trick for finding where you need to drill. Get a coat hanger cut it on each side of the hanger straighten out and push up through the ceiling with a pair of pliers. Will stick up past the insulation and the hole is so small no need to cover but if so grab a little dab. Thanks for the video. Learned some stuff myself
Curious Question, I've done a couple of Ubiquiti installs for friends and family member, and I bought a 12-port (punch-down) Patch Panel and ran 12 cables (all plenum rated) from the "wiring closet" to the attic, terminated it, then built cables to go from the patch panel to the end device. Each build I did we never had the idea for more than 2 devices, but the idea of future additions was appealing. Why not just add one now, I know that creates another point of failure and complexity, but easier to "add" devices.
@@SPXLabs did you run the cables from the office, up to the attic, down to the room? Then also ran more wire for camera's, the curious part would be why not add a patch panel to the attic, so you don't have to keep doing more runs from the wiring closet to the attic in the future.
Any idea how you'd do this in a house with two floors? Getting cable down to the bottom floor from the loft seems like only way would be to pull away the skirting, and cut holes in the walls and even then you've got to get the line down the floor joist gap and In behind the plasterboard in the floor below.
There are a ton of dependencies, generally the easiest less painstaking way to go between floors is to just run the cables along the exterior of the house and drill through the house exterior and interior walls.
I would have installed the network ports behind the furniture, tv only needs one but your consoles, media players, etc might need the other ones. So that way only one cable goes up the side of the wall
It depends on size and length of the cable runs. Unshielded cat6 is fine most of the time but if you can afford it just go for Cat6a. shielding is pointless in a non scientific environment
Hi, how can I make hardwire when the modem is on the ground floor along with some free CAT6 cables, cables run through the ground floor to the attic, and the PC is on the 1st floor(floor above the ground floor) of the house? The client wants ethernet to get connected to his PC on 1st floor that is under the attic.
@@Gameplayer55055 Many long time experts say yes...shielded is a good theory...in reality...don't worry about it. In a home it's extremely rare to ever be an issue
FYI, TECHNICALLY modern Fire Code requires those holes in the wall plates(top/bottom wall horizontal 2x4/6) need to be sealed by a foam/fire caulk. Many inspectors will let you slide by stuffing some fiberglass in there. Don't want smoke traveling between floors in a fire. It's certainly not a BAD idea and it's quick and easy
that ONLY applies to firewalls/barriers, and you only need to fill it with material that matches the rating of the wall that was penetrated. Unless any of the wood was treated with fire resistant coating (which most residential construction is not) there is no fire rating, ergo no fire resistant caulk is needed. The code you may be referring to isn't really about smoke, its about maintaining the fire wall's rating to prevent heat and fire from spreading, also the code you are referring to is for commercial establishments and apartment complexes. It is still recommended he fill in the remaining space of that hole with an insulation foam to prevent a break in the insulation. Also at no point do we let anyone slide by stuffing some insulation in the hole for the reason i mentioned earlier, that is a violation 100% of the time, no other inspector, including myself, that I know of ever let that slide
@@Fireguy473 I had a job for 3yrs walking around with inspectors. I don't know where you are but it's NOT only a firewall. It was any floor penetration. The firewalls had to be firecaulk
Seriously good video on this with some great tips. Short, simple and to the point! Also some A+++ tips and tricks from the community in this comment section too. Great job all around!
Yep stagger your cables 2-3" at least or use a cable pulling sock, pulling sleave or whatever they're called. The wire mesh that expands over the end of the cable then collapses as it is pulled tight.
Is it possible to connect my internet modem to my smart tv with wire in an approximately 30 meter distance ? If yes what cable is the best ? Thank you .
So couldn't you have used the foot numbering marking on the cable to know how long to cut the cables #2-4? Or does this new stuff not have the sequential numbering? Life hack: When you get a new spool write down the foot number on the start of the spool. Then you know how much cable you have left. 2nd hack: When you pulled the first cable, also attach a pull string for the follow on cables. Of if you think you might add a cable in the future, leave a pull string with the cable. Then you don't need to fish in the future. 3rd: When pulling a bunch a cables make a cone with tape to help it to snag less. + You can stagger the start of the cables to not have a big wad at the front.
Just out of curiosity, why have 4 separate runs from the entertainment area instead of just using a gigabit switch for all the devices? Seems less complicated.
Yes you can just have 1 line and use a network switch. That will work well for most cases. But if you're going through the trouble of running 1 cable, you might as well run at least 1 more. In the off chance you need a 2nd port (or don't have a switch handy), you'll be glad you ran that extra network cable.
@@SPXLabs ok I was jw. I ran everything through a Yamaha AV receiver so only thing that runs up to mine is a HDMI, power, and 1 Cat 8. I have a small switch in the cabinet for tv, Xbox, receiver, router, etc but I’m hoping to do away with the lower cabinet completely and just run a rack in another room.
One day I plan to have the receiver and junk all in the rack like you. The Apple TV should be the only thing on the tv side. I’ll probably ended up with two active hdmi cables, one from the Apple TV to the receiver and then one to the tv.
On the exterior camera, how did you mount the camera? Is it mounted into the 2x4 for the soffit? or screwed into the metal? Any insight on that process would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
There is a piece of wood that extends out that I screwed the mount into. I have other cameras that are screwed into the soffit and have been fine. Over the last couple years the driveway camera has survived several thunderstorms with winds of 50mph or more and it’s screwed into the soffit
@@SPXLabs therefore, you probably were able to get at least two of the three screws into the wood 2x4, correct? *Which I believe would securely fasten the camera--did you use the third screw into the sheet metal or leave it out?
I did the same (but in the UK) running cat6a between 110yr old walls :P the result is great though as I got a HDAnywhere 8x6 matrix and centralised by streaming devices and satelite box in my rack - this runs 4K HDR over Cat6a to the TV's I've also ran some setereo audio baluns over them also to feed audio around it's great!!
Oh nice. I should probably look into HDMI over ethernet. What equipment are you using to accomplish your setup? I'm in the early planning stages of how I want to get audio and video to and from the TV and am looking for any recommendations or just general insight to existing setups.
I have an ethernet on the room above my home office. Is it possible to split that connection and bring that cable down? I have access to the attic right above my home office. The room with the ethernet connection is slightly to the right. I hate Wifi extenders!!! They crash constantly and keep losing my remote desktop connection to my work computer
It's better and easier to just run a new cable from inside the house to the outside the house and back inside. Otherwise consider paying a professional to do it right. Otherwise you will just have headaches from the shortcut you are asking about. Alternatively if you have COAX in your home, you can buy a pair of these and get internet to another room with it. amzn.to/45Xup87
Man I wish I could wire my 50s house but I just don't have the skill to do drops. I've resorted to wiring around the trim of the house and routing it in through the outer walls of select rooms.
Hi, I am new to all this so please tell me why do you run 4 cables when you can just have one RJ45 or Fiber cable and add a Network switch? Am I missing something?
No not really. I’d have to also build a proper grounding solution which I’m not capable of. So in my eyes I’ll take the chances. Also based off of observations, I’ve never seen enterprises use surge protection for Ethernet. Only the external lines that come from the ISP and that stuff is super high end enterprise grade stuff which I cannot afford.
Wow, big undertaking is it worth the effort? So my house was wired with cat 5e. I'm running a 2.5G backbone 1 core switch and two Asus ET12 using the 2.5g wired for backhaul priority with 2 other 1G dumb switches for edge devices and it seems to be ok with it. I found some ports just needed re-termination on the jack and all seems to work after. I wonder what the cost benefit is? I'm looking at the stats of the 2.5ge and it seems to be ok, on my 2.5G PC shows no Discards or Errors. Perhaps if I move to 10G then yes only so much s/n ratio bandwidth on cat 5e.
cat5e will do 2.5/5G up to 100 meters, so you probably don't need to upgrade the backbone at all. I have cat6a run all over the house (mostly unnecessarily) but in my office I must have it so I can do 10Gb (1GBps) because of all the youtube videos I make and am constantly saving on my home server. If you do ever move to 10G then cat6a will be most appropriate, especially for long cable runs.
Because they gave me 1000 feet of cable and well I’m already doing the work may as well run more. Also I like the idea of having dedicated connections back to the server closet. I’m only using 2 ports currently.
Great video.. need to run a few for the house as well. What kind of camera did you use? Also what kinda switch do you recommend for your network closet?
It was a Ubiquiti UVC G3 Pro. Well for my network closet it's all ubiquiti everything. Because it's an ecosystem and everything works well. For other people, that is a super loaded question, because I have no idea what your expectations are, your goals, wants, needs, and desires. Are you technical, and even if so are you more of a lazy admin who wants to set it and forget it or are you a I must control every facet of each piece of tech admin.
Is cat6A the current highest performance standard? Looking to do the same and it seems like you can get up to Cat8? If money is less important, what is the absolute best current standard network cable?
If you care about cost then I would base this on the equipment you are using. There is no need to install a higher grade cable if your equipment cant max out or come close to the cables capabilities. If cost isnt an issue, then I would install a higher grade cable to be future proof.
@@SPXLabs sorry for the very beginner question but how does this integrate with current Wi-Fi equipment? For example, if I'm running an ubiquiti dream machine pro with Wi-Fi 6 access points throughout the house those devices don't communicate on fiber optic do they?
@@SPXLabs what I'm asking is, do you plug a fiber optic cable directly into these end devices or some kind of converter to go back to Ethernet jack rj45 at the point of device?
Would make a bet that the reason the cable ends you mentioned weren't working for you might of been the quality of the little copper bits that penetrate into the wires in the cable, noting that you were using a bit thicker of a cable that I assume had beefier rubber on the wires inside.
Yes cat6a has a diameter of 1.24 to 1.34mm. I had to use a digital caliper to get the correct size then order connectors that fit that diameter and where rated for cat6a. I also ordered cat6/7/crimpers because the connectors that fit are shielded and required a new crimper.
Multiple runs also lets you run non-ethernet signals over the runs, too. Like audio or HDMI. Also, having to pull another run later because you didn't do multiples the first time makes one (correctly) feel like an idiot. 😆
That's an option, but if you're going through the trouble of running a line, it makes more sense to run at least another one just in case. In the off chance you do need a 2nd port, you'll be glad you installed it the first time.
Couple tips. Stagger your cables when taping them to fish tapes and tape a cone shape up to the fish tape itself, makes it a way smoother pulling experience. Invest in some drag line. 😂
Was reacting the same way as you, it could also be other factors to staggering, but nice to make it as routine to both secure the cables properly to the fishing rod end, normaly i dont trust alone, like to cut off the sheating and make a small knot also with 2 pairs.
Don't forget to rub on the dawn soap on the taped cords. You will never have a cord snag in a tight spot.
It was on purpose, just to elicit a response/post.
you can cut the tip/end of the cable on an angle along with the staggering of the cables and it'll naturally cause the cone shape and pull easily up the wall without getting snagged on anything
lub lub lub and more lub did i say spit on it pepaw
Great video of your install.
If you haven’t already, I’d also recommend creating a MAC filter on any switch port that has a cable going to the outside of the house.
If by weird chance someone does get to your outside camera and hooks up to the Cat6 going into it, they have open access to your home network. With a MAC filter and adding only your MAC address of your UniFi camera, you’ll eliminate that possibility.
Couldn't they just check what MAC address the camera uses and emulate it?
Just turn on port isolation. I have that turned on for all my cameras and put them on their own VLAN. Then firewall rules so that only the NVR is on the default network.
😂
really. this is your idea? ever heard of vlans?
Those cardboards "blocking the soffit" are actually your ventilation baffles. You need these to direct the air upwards from the soffits rather flowing through the attic, causing havoc to the spray in insulation and reducing the insulation near the soffits.
7:10 - top tip....'taper' your cable ends so theres a more smoother transition when pulling up multiple cables. It avoids snagging in the wall on anything and the hole at the top.
Next time
Definitely taper or stagger (the term we use) the cables like Allister suggests but what I also do is cut all my cable ends on an angle which makes a nice smooth head when you stagger the cables.
The Excess Cable you "Cut Back" should've been pushed back into the wall as a "Service Loop" so if you ever needed to move the wall plate in the future, you could. All in all, great work!
I did leave enough not sure if your confusing two different moments or not
@@SPXLabs It wasn't long enough to be considered a service loop.
@@JavaZombie a few metres over the length of the run
In my experience passthrough connectors are not the best. 2 piece connectors use a passthrough "loading bar" that's cut flush then inserted inside the connector. This ensures no wires protrude out of the connector end causing unreliable connections. The best connectors have a 3rd piece to separate the 4 twisted pairs and maintains the twist right up against the termination points inside the connector. It's more steps to terminate but is the best possible connection with the least amount of signal loss. Some high end AV equipment like certain control systems specifically state to never use passthrough connectors.
Always run a pull string with your cables.
This way of you ever need to run a new cable, simply tie into the pull string, making sure to run a new pull string with the new cable.
I typically run a string down with each drops as well, for any future need
This comment is gold!!!
Also helps to tape a label to the string with the length of the run. Can help order the right length if you need to run a pre-terminated cable in the future, like a fiber patch in the future.
Alternate way of running the cables in your walls. Get a spool of string and run it, maybe 2, with the first cable then just tape new wires and pull string through, could also leave a string in wall for future pulls.
You can use a hard drive magnet on both sides of Sheetrock to fish a line through. Just watch your fingers when the magnets make contact.
The magnepull makes life way easier
Some things I noticed and have probably already been mentioned. Those cardboard barriers are critical. They are soffit vent deflectors and the protect your soffit vents form being covered with insulation. You need to go up there and make sure your vents are clear. it isn't necessary to install new ones if you have missing ones as long as you aren't going to be adding insulation. Second, use a stud finder to locate the studs. Much more accurate. It's your house so not that important, but if you were doing this at a friends house or a customers house, get a small shop vac. Use the shop vac next to your drywall saw when cutting to keep the amount of debris on the floor minimal. Use a reel to pull the tape, if you don't have one, figure 8 the cable on the floor before pulling. It will pull much easier and you won't damage the cable or the wall. Caulk all penetrations into attic or that lead to the outside. Use the appropriate caulk. Typically, fire code requires a fire rated caulk to be used if you are going through any fire barriers as well, so keep that in mind. Use bushings when pulling through an exterior wall or soffit. It will protect your cable.
Pull strings work great when having to pull multiple cables through the same hole. I always leave an extra string in after the job is done just in case I have do another pull in the future.
Several improvements on your technique. 1) Any penetrations from your heated space into the attic need to be calked to block air leakage The air leakage can cause significant cold spots in your wall and possible condensation in the wall during the heating season. 2) Label your cables before pulling them so you can identify each run 3) At the very least, wire map each run to validate the runs 4) label you r wall jack and your server patch panel
Next time pull that slack up in the attic as a safety loop and attach to the support beam for future issues. Either side might go bad or damaged so you always want to leave slack. As for future pulls if you want to pull multiple lines there are two methods so it doesn't get knotted while pulling. You can wrap it around the cat6 spool and bring a ladder in to allow it to easily spool out or you can tape around 5-6 feet to keep it clean. Either will work.
18:16 We also sometimes have problems with RJ-45 plugs, I found out that some plugs are only compatible with stranded wire.
And most often we use solid wire for fixed connections like in walls.
I'm thinking about just using the coax the previous owner has in every room (from Dish and cable) with Moca.. just switched to fiber (waiting in line for home install)..
Moca is a great simple easy thing to do. Most of the time I just recommend that to folks over running wire because it's cost effective and most people don't watch cable tv anyway.
7:21 electrician's tape around the end tip of the Ethernet cables and the pull through, smoothens the pull through.
10:52: ceiling speakers FTW.
Consider getting a bump cap if you're worried about hitting your head on roofing nails. Cheaper alternative to quick care or tetanus shots.
Next time!
that protects your head but what about your back?
You won’t get tetanus from it, just scratches and cuts. Tetanus comes from bacteria found on the ground and not rust like many think. Bump caps are worth it though in keeping your noggin scratch free
Many times the current length of the cable is written on it. Basically you could have read that off your first cable without pulling it out.
Drill up and use a glow necklace through the hole to make a reference point. Then putty to patch and paint.
this guy cables
also instead of pulling that reference first run back all the way just add extra pull length the wall height to get the other 3 up
Use a magnespot, has a little sharp in with a bunch of magnets attached. Then a locater one uses from other side. Can locate within 2" or so. No holes to patch, paint to touch up etc...and they're cheap
CAT6A, man I feel for you. After running many parts of my house with CAT6 where I couldn't feel my fingers in the end, with CAT6A being a thicker cable, you were in a world of pain lol. Seriously doing SOLID cable termination is a pain compared to stranded but there is no choice when you are putting anything in the walls as per fire code at least here in Canada. Really good to give yourself a lot more cable than you need on each end; I was glad I did. When you terminate a cable it doesn't always work out, I had to redo that 2 to 4 times at times on 1 end just to have a proper termination.
Bruh, I had an hour and 58 minutes of video, mostly terminating. My hands and fingers had so many cuts from nails and splintered wood, so holding those tiny wires to slide them into the RJ45 connector was brutal. And I only did it 6 times. The reason the video just seems to jump from TV to 2 outdoor runs is because I was just so over lugging the camera up and down the ladder to the attic lol. Most of the video was uninteresting too, I think. Just pulling and pushing cable around.
And as an IT contractor, Cat6A was a terrible choice anyway. I know he got it for free so I guess in that regard it makes sense but from a choice standpoint, a 4k UHD stream is around 25 Mbps. Most smart TVs only have a 100 Mbps NIC anyway. Cat5e is already 10x overkill for that. Then stepping up to Cat6, you can get gigabit, and even 10 gigabit up for 40 meters, which would be 100x overkill. Then stepping up again to A would simply give a longer range, 100 meters, on that pointless 10 Gbps. So many people online say to "future proof" and buy the biggest, most expensive cable, but that's really dumb. 5e is fine for 99% of end user applications, 6 is overkill. 6a is just double overkill. And when you consider that 5e has been around for over 20 years, and is STILL overkill for most end user things, if puts into perspective just how useless your "overkill" solution really is. Again, if I'm getting the cable for free I'll use it, but there's absolutely zero reason to buy it. It just hurts your wallet and is a harder job for the exact same performance.
Yup all of this. Which none of which I talked about or mentioned. Just got some free cable and installed it.
@@user-nh3gu1ge3d I went with CAT6 in my home because it wasn't that much more expensive over CAT5E and that way my house if secured for 10GB in the future if I want to. You are right in saying it is overkill maybe for the next 5 to 10 years until you start getting devices capable of 8K. But I mean that will take a hell of a lot of time before we get there. Do you need 10GB right now in homes? Probably not, it is too expensive anyway. I think the next logical step is 2.5gb for homes and that would be good for people who need it. But the problem is that there are not many products out there for 2.5Gb. I haven't seen a single 24 ports 2.5gb switch yet.
As an IT contractor, you most have installed plenty of cable right? I have a question for you. As per code, running wires in walls require PLENUM cable. So I'm using CAT6 plenum. But I was often faced with issues doing my termination, in preparing the wires, it would happen once in a while one of the wires would break!! Is that something common?
@@ptessier73 I actually ran Cat6 in my house as well, but for reasons similar to yours. It's definitely overkill. Even 5e is overkill for 99% of end user devices. Your smart devices, cameras, etc. are all 100 Mbps max so even cat5 would be fine. But I typically have 10 boxes of cable on hand and, before CV screwed everything up, the difference in price was only like 25 bucks or so (around 125 vs 150 bucks for 1k ft). I also felt a little better about using a thicker gauge wire for POE, though I'm sure there's no real difference. 6 is also more tightly wound so better for cross talk and things like that, but you shouldn't really have that issue anyway. If you're laying your wiring on top of florescent lights, then that's an install issue anyway.
And even 8k streams will only use about 100 Mbps, so again, there's just no reason for it most of the time. 10 gig is good for mass devices, infrastructure like switches, servers that serve multiple/many clients, huge data transfers like video editing. The bandwidth required for even the highest definition streaming is minimal, audio is nothing, gaming is nothing, etc. Basically the most common thing that needs gig to 10 gig is video editing and huge file transfers, like if you are moving around 100 gig files, stuff like that. Even moving 100 gigs on a cat5e will "only" take a minute and a half so not that bad. When you go 10 gig then you need MASSIVE infra spending because you've got to upgrade every switch in the chain, every NIC, every device. If ANY device is slow then it will bottleneck the whole thing. Even your standard HDD is only around 150 MB/s so that can't even keep up with a 10 gig cable. That can barely saturate a 1 gig line. So you'll have to use solid state storage and if you're working with 100 gig files, that means you need tons and tons of space, like 50-100 TB of solid state hard drives, and you need redundancy, etc. you're talking about tens of thousands of dollars per server like that, thousands on switching, etc. The most that a "pro-sumer" like me would do at home would be a direct connect from a cheaper server to a PC, with a small, single digit 10 gig switch, and just let the HDD RAID be the bottleneck. Very fast but not "large enterprise" fast.
As to your question about the plenum, almost all the cable I run is "riser" not plenum. Plenum costs way more and is only used for plenum spaces, to put it simply, air circulation. You don't have to use plenum in walls or ceilings or pretty much anywhere UNLESS it's inside an air duct or certain ceiling air spaces (like if you have drop ceilings that have air supply or returns that will suck in the air from that space). Long story short, it's again one of those "almost never" things. I know the Safety Sally's will come out of the woodwork and tell me how wrong I am and blah blah blah but I'm telling you. I worked in a data center before and we used many vendors and whenever we got quoted runs, it was always riser cable. You had to specifically ask for plenum and then it would be vastly more expensive. YMMV.
It's the same cable, it's just the sheathing is slightly less toxic when it burns. But guess what, smoke is toxic 😆! Whatever you're burning, if you're breathing that in, you're in for a bad time. I get it if it's in an air vent or whatever but like I said, in most cases it doesn't make a noticeable difference. You may have company or insurance requirements though, they may require you to run plenum in the ceilings for liability purposes but we never did. Maybe we are a bit too "cowboy", I dunno.
And finally, to answer your question about the wire breaking, it sounds like you scored the sheathing a bit too deep. If you cut around the sheathing and dig too deep, it cuts into the copper wire and absolutely, it will snap off. Hope that answers your question. Whew!
Network Admin here: some RJ45 caps will not work with certain termination tools. For best results - match Klein brand termination tools to Klein brand pass through RJ45 heads. Everything can look right if you mix and match (and may even completely work for certain combinations) but will fail a cable certification which means your end device will not form a successful connection with your network.
I have Cat 5e in all the rooms in my house. Would like to upgrade, but no easy way to do it other than all over again. All my Cat 5e is stapled to the studs.
make sure you use plenum rated cable in the attic... also use a network tester to test for straight through continuity and any errors on the line.
I don't see a need for plenum rated cable since none of it was run in a plenum. Attics in houses are normally not plenums, and you can see he has typical supply and return ducts.
NOTES: Suggestions from 4 decades of Cable Pulling (Electrical and Low Voltage)
1.) Drill Holes correct diameter to Pull Maximum # cables (like 4, your TV pull)
2.) Use Pull Strings for Future Proofing (later cable pulls)
3.) 500 and 1000 foot spools of Category 6a UTP usually length marks on outer jacket,
use that feature to determine length of that TV to Patch Panel cable.
-
Fire Caulking already mentioned.
I have watched Cable Crews fired, and one group brought to tears by Fire Inspectors.
He had investigated a recent fire - lack of fire blocking help spread fire (and he showed them).
Yes I already knew when pulling at least three cables you were gonna have them tangle on each other while pulling them and making a knot. Its honestly best to do that many drops in one area with 2 people or lay all that cable out flat across your house and even tape them in sections if you have to do it by yourself
Personally if it was me at work tho I would just have had 4 boxes of riser cable being pulled from simultaneously.
Nice video, just a few points -
You levelled the low level box to the top of the existing plate so when you fitted the plate it looks like it is slightly higher.
I would not pull the cable off the side of the drum, either use a cable dispenser or even a broom handle through the drum.
Do you not number the outlets
Yeah I didn’t think of it till way to late.
They are labeled in the other end.
I used to pull wire for a smart home company we always just used electrical tape. It works just make sure its enough to hold not too much to be a pain that or have enough to just cut up the cable and have plenty to work with
The cardboard stuff is actually to keep your blown in insulation from blowing into the soffits and also direct air up along roof. PS what is the name of those push rods? Got a link you can add to description?
These are the rods I bought, amzn.to/3CwtjTN
I like your TV mount bracket. Could you provide a link to that particular mount? Great video and thank you.
Sorry it doesn’t exist anymore.
Don't spools of cable usually have distance markings on them so you can just use that instead of pulling it back out to measure it?
That they do
Cant wait to do this to my home, going with aruba equipment..
Have fun!
at the 8:21 maark, i would have just left it up in the attic as a service loop in case the wife one day say she doesn't want the TV their no more.
There is slack on both ends.
Idk if anyone mention this but the cables have measurement markings on it to help with that issue. So in your case after you ran the first one you can look at the measurement and go off that reading.
I actually never noticed that’s awesome
I’m on my 2nd roll of 1k foot of 6a. Fun winter project. I have 13 cameras and the 4 drive NVR. Also 2 of the outdoor LED motion lights. I’ll be hanging more of them as I really do like them.
haha wow! nice. Doing this stuff during winter is definitely a fun project.
A little trick for finding where you need to drill. Get a coat hanger cut it on each side of the hanger straighten out and push up through the ceiling with a pair of pliers. Will stick up past the insulation and the hole is so small no need to cover but if so grab a little dab. Thanks for the video. Learned some stuff myself
That’s a good idea. I’ll definitely try to keep that in mind for the future when I do this again.
Curious Question, I've done a couple of Ubiquiti installs for friends and family member, and I bought a 12-port (punch-down) Patch Panel and ran 12 cables (all plenum rated) from the "wiring closet" to the attic, terminated it, then built cables to go from the patch panel to the end device. Each build I did we never had the idea for more than 2 devices, but the idea of future additions was appealing. Why not just add one now, I know that creates another point of failure and complexity, but easier to "add" devices.
I don’t understand? I ran 4 cables behind the tv.
@@SPXLabs did you run the cables from the office, up to the attic, down to the room? Then also ran more wire for camera's, the curious part would be why not add a patch panel to the attic, so you don't have to keep doing more runs from the wiring closet to the attic in the future.
I ran a bunch of cables yeah. I have never thought about that. That’s way too smart for me lol. Hmm. Good idea though for real
Your links in the description don’t include the rods that you used for the soffit camera run. Do you have a link for that?
@ SPX Labs' couldn't you have just used a pull string to run the other 3 after you found out how long they needed to be?
I suppose so
Any idea how you'd do this in a house with two floors? Getting cable down to the bottom floor from the loft seems like only way would be to pull away the skirting, and cut holes in the walls and even then you've got to get the line down the floor joist gap and In behind the plasterboard in the floor below.
There are a ton of dependencies, generally the easiest less painstaking way to go between floors is to just run the cables along the exterior of the house and drill through the house exterior and interior walls.
I would use pull sting for any future runs
i have been wanting to do this but with access points from my main ONT
I would have installed the network ports behind the furniture, tv only needs one but your consoles, media players, etc might need the other ones. So that way only one cable goes up the side of the wall
That's a good idea actually. So far, no consoles only Apple TV which is mounted behind the tv. a Receiver will go in the network closet in the future.
That is what I did When I did my place, 4 to each TV location, One at the TV and 3 at rhe Bottom
Why did you not put the cable spool on a pipe or broom handle suspended between two chairs to unspool the cable?
Man I never would have thought of anything like that even if I had all of those things sitting in front of me
Is your preference for new home CAT6A shielded or unshielded ?
Thank you
It depends on size and length of the cable runs. Unshielded cat6 is fine most of the time but if you can afford it just go for Cat6a. shielding is pointless in a non scientific environment
Hi, how can I make hardwire when the modem is on the ground floor along with some free CAT6 cables, cables run through the ground floor to the attic, and the PC is on the 1st floor(floor above the ground floor) of the house? The client wants ethernet to get connected to his PC on 1st floor that is under the attic.
house has 5e for telephone and i ran about 8 cat6 lines... eventually id have to redo the 5e when 2.5gb comes standard
Man that’s really cool you had 5e. I would have loved to have Ethernet everywhere I lived
14:47 normally that carton is there to make sure that none of that isolation covers the vents of your soffit
Used cat6 cable mostly for future proofing. Nothing special, but it was a bit tricky to terminate connectors
Cat6 is perfect for typical home use. Much better than cat5e. You did good.
@@SPXLabs used shielded ones, because internet wires were alongside with mains wires
Probably a good idea. If there is a lot of electrical I’ve hear interference is possible.
@@Gameplayer55055 Many long time experts say yes...shielded is a good theory...in reality...don't worry about it. In a home it's extremely rare to ever be an issue
@@mrmotofy many mains wires scared me and in local stores shielded cables were just a bit more expensive
I have had surprising success with cheap iSelek brand pass thru connectors from Amazon. I install Unifi cameras professionally.
I'll give these a try when I run out of connectors. Thanks for the heads up!
Wish you had demonstrated attaching the cable to the connector.
On the plus side there are some channels out there that show how extremely well. And probably more entertaining than me too
Can you add the link for the power extension boxes? Maybe you did and I’m just not seeing it.
I missed it. amzn.to/3NN5BaC
Tell your wife HI from all of us. We do enjoy seeing the amazing helpful wives that make our lives so much easier.
Was this a poem?
FYI, TECHNICALLY modern Fire Code requires those holes in the wall plates(top/bottom wall horizontal 2x4/6) need to be sealed by a foam/fire caulk. Many inspectors will let you slide by stuffing some fiberglass in there. Don't want smoke traveling between floors in a fire. It's certainly not a BAD idea and it's quick and easy
Who follows that?
that ONLY applies to firewalls/barriers, and you only need to fill it with material that matches the rating of the wall that was penetrated. Unless any of the wood was treated with fire resistant coating (which most residential construction is not) there is no fire rating, ergo no fire resistant caulk is needed. The code you may be referring to isn't really about smoke, its about maintaining the fire wall's rating to prevent heat and fire from spreading, also the code you are referring to is for commercial establishments and apartment complexes. It is still recommended he fill in the remaining space of that hole with an insulation foam to prevent a break in the insulation. Also at no point do we let anyone slide by stuffing some insulation in the hole for the reason i mentioned earlier, that is a violation 100% of the time, no other inspector, including myself, that I know of ever let that slide
@@Fireguy473 I had a job for 3yrs walking around with inspectors. I don't know where you are but it's NOT only a firewall. It was any floor penetration. The firewalls had to be firecaulk
Used to be common practice to stuff mineral wool in them. Maybe not in all regions.
Seriously good video on this with some great tips. Short, simple and to the point! Also some A+++ tips and tricks from the community in this comment section too. Great job all around!
Yep stagger your cables 2-3" at least or use a cable pulling sock, pulling sleave or whatever they're called. The wire mesh that expands over the end of the cable then collapses as it is pulled tight.
It's called a kellum grip
@@johnolsen3341 That may be ONE name for it
Is it possible to connect my internet modem to my smart tv with wire in an approximately 30 meter distance ? If yes what cable is the best ? Thank you .
Assuming your smart tv has an Ethernet port, yes it’s possible. A simple Ethernet CAT5e cable should be more than perfect for the job.
@@SPXLabsthanks alot
Great video and what a beautiful house you have. Congrats!
Beautiful work. Great video.
Doesn’t the Ethernet cable need to be inside conduit to protect it???
No but if you have the ability to run conduit then definitely take the extra effort because it’s very beneficial in the long run.
I recommend the Sonos Arc. FYI, DO NOT hardwire in any Sonos speakers as it can create a loop in your network. I found out the hard way.
Hey I was just looking at that today. I’ll keep that in mind. I still do not know what I’m going to do to this day
ℹ just had fiber optic cable installed any suggestions on getting my house wired?
Like by a professional?
I just made a vid about the basics of home networking and there's lots of info in there as well as more in the pinned comment
My man actually pulled up a tray24k stream on the TV. What a legend
I Watch that milk drinker all the time, him and all his team killing shenanigans.
So couldn't you have used the foot numbering marking on the cable to know how long to cut the cables #2-4?
Or does this new stuff not have the sequential numbering?
Life hack: When you get a new spool write down the foot number on the start of the spool. Then you know how much cable you have left.
2nd hack: When you pulled the first cable, also attach a pull string for the follow on cables. Of if you think you might add a cable in the future, leave a pull string with the cable. Then you don't need to fish in the future.
3rd: When pulling a bunch a cables make a cone with tape to help it to snag less. + You can stagger the start of the cables to not have a big wad at the front.
Just out of curiosity, why have 4 separate runs from the entertainment area instead of just using a gigabit switch for all the devices? Seems less complicated.
Yes you can just have 1 line and use a network switch. That will work well for most cases. But if you're going through the trouble of running 1 cable, you might as well run at least 1 more. In the off chance you need a 2nd port (or don't have a switch handy), you'll be glad you ran that extra network cable.
Why did you put 4 Ethernet behind the tv instead of down the at the bottom behind the cabinet?
The long term game plan is to have just an Apple 4k tv behind the tv. The other 3 are just because
@@SPXLabs ok I was jw. I ran everything through a Yamaha AV receiver so only thing that runs up to mine is a HDMI, power, and 1 Cat 8. I have a small switch in the cabinet for tv, Xbox, receiver, router, etc but I’m hoping to do away with the lower cabinet completely and just run a rack in another room.
One day I plan to have the receiver and junk all in the rack like you. The Apple TV should be the only thing on the tv side. I’ll probably ended up with two active hdmi cables, one from the Apple TV to the receiver and then one to the tv.
What is the thing with american putting the tv so high?
On the exterior camera, how did you mount the camera? Is it mounted into the 2x4 for the soffit? or screwed into the metal? Any insight on that process would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
There is a piece of wood that extends out that I screwed the mount into. I have other cameras that are screwed into the soffit and have been fine. Over the last couple years the driveway camera has survived several thunderstorms with winds of 50mph or more and it’s screwed into the soffit
@@SPXLabs therefore, you probably were able to get at least two of the three screws into the wood 2x4, correct? *Which I believe would securely fasten the camera--did you use the third screw into the sheet metal or leave it out?
I’m not aware of a third screw being provided by Ubiquiti. Just using two. Got hit by tornado winds last night and all cameras survived
Do you have a 10gbps switch? If so, which one are you using as CAT6A has a max throughput of 10gbps
I did the same (but in the UK) running cat6a between 110yr old walls :P the result is great though as I got a HDAnywhere 8x6 matrix and centralised by streaming devices and satelite box in my rack - this runs 4K HDR over Cat6a to the TV's
I've also ran some setereo audio baluns over them also to feed audio around it's great!!
Oh nice. I should probably look into HDMI over ethernet. What equipment are you using to accomplish your setup? I'm in the early planning stages of how I want to get audio and video to and from the TV and am looking for any recommendations or just general insight to existing setups.
guys, i need help..what's the job description to run ethernet cables or school carrier?
Do you have the links for the Klein 6a passthrough connectors? Were the Klein passthrough connectors Cat 6 or Cat 6A?
I don’t think they designate between the two. But I use these and they work fine.
amzn.to/3zPES7v
@@SPXLabs Thankyou
I have an ethernet on the room above my home office. Is it possible to split that connection and bring that cable down? I have access to the attic right above my home office. The room with the ethernet connection is slightly to the right. I hate Wifi extenders!!! They crash constantly and keep losing my remote desktop connection to my work computer
It's better and easier to just run a new cable from inside the house to the outside the house and back inside. Otherwise consider paying a professional to do it right. Otherwise you will just have headaches from the shortcut you are asking about.
Alternatively if you have COAX in your home, you can buy a pair of these and get internet to another room with it. amzn.to/45Xup87
Man I wish I could wire my 50s house but I just don't have the skill to do drops. I've resorted to wiring around the trim of the house and routing it in through the outer walls of select rooms.
That’s honestly not a terrible idea. It’s either that or tear up dry wall, drill holes through studs, and then patch and paint everything back uo
Hi, I am new to all this so please tell me why do you run 4 cables when you can just have one RJ45 or Fiber cable and add a Network switch? Am I missing something?
I explained it in the video
Any thing to protect network from lightning strikes
No not really. I’d have to also build a proper grounding solution which I’m not capable of. So in my eyes I’ll take the chances. Also based off of observations, I’ve never seen enterprises use surge protection for Ethernet. Only the external lines that come from the ISP and that stuff is super high end enterprise grade stuff which I cannot afford.
silly question : what is that orange bracket thing you have that supports the ethernet wall plate?
Not silly. A single gang mounting bracket.
@@SPXLabs is there any specific one you recommend? Or is whatever I find at the local hardware store good enough?
amzn.to/3VXDbwX This one
What kind of in wall speakers would you get?
I haven’t purchased any yet
Wow, big undertaking is it worth the effort? So my house was wired with cat 5e. I'm running a 2.5G backbone 1 core switch and two Asus ET12 using the 2.5g wired for backhaul priority with 2 other 1G dumb switches for edge devices and it seems to be ok with it. I found some ports just needed re-termination on the jack and all seems to work after. I wonder what the cost benefit is? I'm looking at the stats of the 2.5ge and it seems to be ok, on my 2.5G PC shows no Discards or Errors. Perhaps if I move to 10G then yes only so much s/n ratio bandwidth on cat 5e.
cat5e will do 2.5/5G up to 100 meters, so you probably don't need to upgrade the backbone at all. I have cat6a run all over the house (mostly unnecessarily) but in my office I must have it so I can do 10Gb (1GBps) because of all the youtube videos I make and am constantly saving on my home server. If you do ever move to 10G then cat6a will be most appropriate, especially for long cable runs.
I am inspired sir. Ty for giving me the confidence to do this for my home.
You got this
Hope to copy this exactly. Why 4 data ports behind TV? Nice job!
Because they gave me 1000 feet of cable and well I’m already doing the work may as well run more. Also I like the idea of having dedicated connections back to the server closet. I’m only using 2 ports currently.
@spx is the insulation on those conductors for the white striped pairs actually striped or solid white?
Yes, all the stripes exist for orange, green, blue, and brown. I'm fairly color impaired and in real life they are very vibrant and visible.
Great video.. need to run a few for the house as well. What kind of camera did you use? Also what kinda switch do you recommend for your network closet?
It was a Ubiquiti UVC G3 Pro. Well for my network closet it's all ubiquiti everything. Because it's an ecosystem and everything works well. For other people, that is a super loaded question, because I have no idea what your expectations are, your goals, wants, needs, and desires. Are you technical, and even if so are you more of a lazy admin who wants to set it and forget it or are you a I must control every facet of each piece of tech admin.
hello what is the name of camera you use for filming
iPhone 13 Mini
Is cat6A the current highest performance standard? Looking to do the same and it seems like you can get up to Cat8? If money is less important, what is the absolute best current standard network cable?
Optical fiber is the absolute best. You should choose cable based off your needs or wants.
If you care about cost then I would base this on the equipment you are using. There is no need to install a higher grade cable if your equipment cant max out or come close to the cables capabilities. If cost isnt an issue, then I would install a higher grade cable to be future proof.
@@SPXLabs sorry for the very beginner question but how does this integrate with current Wi-Fi equipment? For example, if I'm running an ubiquiti dream machine pro with Wi-Fi 6 access points throughout the house those devices don't communicate on fiber optic do they?
The type of cable is irrelevant for communication purposes. Devices talking to devices is all handled by routing tables.
@@SPXLabs what I'm asking is, do you plug a fiber optic cable directly into these end devices or some kind of converter to go back to Ethernet jack rj45 at the point of device?
Headlamp used? i liked the flood beam
It’s klien headlamp. Couldn’t tell you anything else about it except it charges via USB C
Now that is on sexy spool of cable!
You should see the pink ones
@@SPXLabs I NEEEEEEEEED IT!
Thank you for showing the drywall clean up. So satisfying 😌
Great video 👍
There is always that one person that loves it. I was thinking of you!
Out of curiosity, did you build walk ways made of plywood in your attic or are you just being careful not to step on drywall?
There are some walkways already up there but the vast majority of it, I am just carefully stepping on the existing studs.
@@SPXLabs I call that the "calves will be sore for the next week" approach to attic work 😂
At my age, it’s sore all over.
@@SPXLabs Time to ask your wife for a back rub.
“Well Jules, the funny thing about my back is that it’s located on my …..”
thanks for the recommendation.😄
Did you put numbers on the cable?
I labeled them
I enjoy this kind of content. Subscribed 👍
Do 4 speakers in the ceiling for surround sound. That's what I have and it's awesome!
Can’t go wrong with an 5.1.4 Dolby Atmos setup
Would make a bet that the reason the cable ends you mentioned weren't working for you might of been the quality of the little copper bits that penetrate into the wires in the cable, noting that you were using a bit thicker of a cable that I assume had beefier rubber on the wires inside.
That’s definitely a possibility.
Yes cat6a has a diameter of 1.24 to 1.34mm. I had to use a digital caliper to get the correct size then order connectors that fit that diameter and where rated for cat6a. I also ordered cat6/7/crimpers because the connectors that fit are shielded and required a new crimper.
Good stuff man! Hey, what kind of camera did you use for this video --if you don't mind me asking?
My iPhone 13 Mini
I know im getting old now cause this excites me more than having a mesh system in my house, but I dont own the house I live in so I cant do this...yet
Why did you run 4 cables behind the TV? Why not run just 1 and use an Ethernet switch to connect multiple devices?
Because I wanted to limit the number of devices back there.
Multiple runs also lets you run non-ethernet signals over the runs, too. Like audio or HDMI. Also, having to pull another run later because you didn't do multiples the first time makes one (correctly) feel like an idiot. 😆
These Transmission have very sick engines, proof somethings wrong with them!!!!
why wouldn't you just pull one line and use an unmanaged switch?
That's an option, but if you're going through the trouble of running a line, it makes more sense to run at least another one just in case. In the off chance you do need a 2nd port, you'll be glad you installed it the first time.
Where to buy good quality cat 6Acable ?
I normally buy from TrueCable amzn.to/3UkjLV1. Infinite Cable or FS.com
Why run 3 cables ? One cat6a is enough bandwith for home entertainment equipment. Just add a simple 5 port switch behind tv
Because I had 1000 feet of cable so why not. But also I want to minimize the number of things behind the tv.