Protip: give the external cables an extra shielding, not against UV Light, but against animals, like martens, raccoons and Birds! It will save you quite a bit of headache down the line.
The annoying part is when you think you have the easy one of just pulling out the coax then you find out the builders stapled it to the stud and it's not the kind of staples that allow it to move. 🤬
I learned from vets at my last job, and they didn't teach me that great jacket tip, thanks! Also, that Klein terminator is about as handy as they come, and it includes a cable stripper near the pivot. For learning colors, one tip if you go B and orange white first (which you should probably) is to remember clip on the connector down, and white stripe first in each pair except the middle color, blue and blue-white.
Been on doing for 8 years and I agree with you I just get a bit trigger when no one uses the protection for the RJ45´s head ( the plastic covers)... I don´t know the exact name in English, I guess I got used to use it in Enterprise clients and my own home.
This is probably one of the most original, genuinely entertaining/informational, and well produced RUclips videos that I’ve watched for some time. Thank you!
@@ryanwallace983 hmm I forgot about those, you’re right. Tho Linus’ house is just another ltt set at this point, or I’m sure he’d like it to be so he can spend company finances on it
@@ryanwallace983 I think this is a little more structured for knowledge rather than LTT where there’s has an entertainment aspect too. I like both styles, however.
As someone who works in IT involving all this cabling, you did a great job explaining everything in really approachable ways to those with even zero experience. I also appreciate covering the options you chose not to go with, but could be relevant for others. Kudos to that.
As someone who used to do all this for a living, I still enjoyed the heck out of this video and was engaged the whole time. I have made thousands of Cat-5e patches by hand and literally never knew the trick of using the stripped jacket to untwist them. I'm glad there's someone out there making this stuff easy for homeowners to understand and DIY.
The entire video is a heck of a lot advertising and he most most most probably (almost certainly) got all of the stuff for free. The biggest pain is to pull the cables. The rest is super simple. I do this all day long, so I know what it's all about.
@@Blubb5000 Have you ever filmed the whole process, clearly explained every detail (even background on the methods that aren't relevant to you, but may be to your audience) while making sure to get perfect angles of all the pertinent stuff so any one can follow along? Sounds like a pretty painstaking, tedious and time-consuming process to me, especially given his unique house situation and having to figure most of the variables out on his first go-around.
@@MrCapsMan The entire process to retrofit an old house is actually pretty simple. I did this with the house I bought and I do this amongst other things as my job in the business world, where the requirements are much more demanding. I actually made training videos for our employees. No, I won't post the videos... these are for our company only. The vast amount of people don't need gigabit ethernet in every room. One connection for the main computer and one for the "wife", directly attached to the router that you get from your ISP, is enough for 95% of all people. Place an access point in the middle of the house and you're good. I have a 3 story (wood) house and I've strategically placed a single Apple Airport Extreme dead center in the physical middle of the house (hallway). My 2 kids, me and my wife have worry free WiFi throughout the house. Browsing, video calling, downloading gigs of stuff works perfectly fine. I also have currently overall 71 light bulbs from Wiz (Philips), which connect via WiFi bulbs to the entire network and I can control them through an app, from my computer and remote controls, which I installed instead of regular light switches. My network is pretty busy and there is no problem at all. Snazzy is completely overdoing his effort in his new (old) house. This is understandable, because he has to make a lining and such sponsors, who pay for the entire thing, help him being independent.
It's actually pretty important to use Keystones instead of just continuing the cable out of the wall. For one, most in-wall rated cables are solid core, which means each wire is made out of solid copper. These have better distance performance and longer life, but are stiffer and can work harden and break if bent around a lot. Patch cables typically use stranded core, kind of like speaker wire, made up of a lot of small strands of copper per wire. Also, if you break a wire coming out of a wall, you could end up needing to replace it if say it needs to reach 4ft into the room and you broke it at 2 ft. Whereas with a keystone you can just replace the patch cable and all your wires in the wall are safe.
I know this is an old comment, but there’s one thing that I would say justifies just having a cable sticking out of the wall: *_plaster walls_*. It’s _so_ annoying to cut through or even drill through that I would say just having the wire sticking out is fine.
@@myrealusername2193 If u want to just have it hanging go on but professional installers would say use a keystone as the head comment here explained perfectly. I would rather install a cheap cable instead of a more expensive cables used to run behind walls which you really should consider using.
@@myrealusername2193 if that's the case then just use a surface mount box to punch down the wire to a keystone then. This is common along with cable raceway on walls with concrete, glass, and brick.
@@myrealusername2193 Yes but as the guy said especially with solid copper wire, which is what pretty much everybody that has ethernet cable running through their house has, just simply running the cable directly from the wall to the device is quite risky as it becomes weak very quickly and breaks when bent and moved around even a handful of times. and if it does you're kinda fucked because you have to remove that cable completely and replace it if it's not long enough to reach your device. its really not much more time and money to go the extra mile and do it correctly.
Great video. I have been using unifi for a few years now and love the product. My house isn’t as old, but I too had crawl under my crawl space to run wire in my house. Love the creepy green eyes that appear in background (11:11) as you say the crawlspace isn’t haunted by Pennywise!
@@Appri you see the white cable bunches at the bottom - see the black tape on top of one of the bunches - slowly look up the sceen in straight line - you will see two white eyes 🙂
Had to laugh about his naive comments about interior wall cabling. Everywhere I've ever worked, there's been a building code required fire dam right in the middle of the wall. Nothing works on that besides a really long drill bit and time spent in the Attic getting Hanta virus from the mouse droppings.
Great video...However, at the 14:50 mark, Do NOT cut the drywall out until you know where the electric wire is coming from in the plug next to it. Turn off the power and take off the plate to the plugs and try and determine where the power cables are coming from so you do not cut into them and either visit your maker or at the very least visit a hospital...
If you must work around live wires, because you are stubborn or something, at least use the one-hand rule. Only expose one hand, not two to the possible live area. The idea is that, if you get electrocuted, the current will travel through only your hand hopefully back to the ground of whatever it came from. If you use two hands, one side touches hot, and the other becomes ground, the current travels through your heart, and you die. Keep in mind that this will not guarantee that you live. It will only increase the odds.
Depends on how you cut it. If using the multitool, you can cut the drywall without going very far into the wall. If using the knife, you can still take precautions to prevent injury, though might mangle electrical wire and have to replace it if you cut too deep. I think the best option is to drill a couple pilot holes; one for you to look through, and the other to shine a light through. This way, you can actually see if there is a wire in the way and know how to work around it, as it's not feasible to be able to determine which direction a run is coming from looking at the inside of the electrical box.
he used a stud finder to find the studs first. The outlet is usually mounted on the stud with the wire stapled to the same stud. Also to make you feel better, Most of the time that wire will be ran min 6in above the outlet when it passes stud to stud.
You certainly SHOULD terminate in a specific order rather than “as long as both colors are the same at either end”. The twisted pairs are paired that way that they are inverted polarity to protect against interference. Source: I work as a Network Engineer
@@wesleybradley89 THIS. TIMES. INFINITY. (and beyond!) 568B is preferred, largely because it's the most popular iteration. Just don't terminate one end using 568A and the other using 568B, because you'll cross over the orange and green pairs. (and your tester device will rightfully complain!) Doing this intentionally means you've made a crossover cable, which is normally used to directly connect two computers two each other without a switch in between.
Should have clarified better in the video. As long as the cables are on the same end, they should work, but performance will be impacted and there are reasons for which the standards exist. Type-B is the way to go and it’s what I’ve done everywhere.
Making up your own pinout defeats the whole point of running Cat6. (Even untwisting too much cable before the RJ or keystone defeats the point, but that's just going off into the weeds of pedantry...) White-Orange, Orange, White-Green, Blue, White-Blue, Green, White-Brown, Brown. Every time, one exception (when you're making crossover cables for devices that can't auto-MDIX, swap Green and Orange on one end).
@@needfuldoer4531 well the same is true for using unshielded rj45 connectors for Cat7/Cat6a though it is done a lot and for the most part is fine. Having electromagnetic interference for the whole cable run are very probable since it probably is close to AC wiring at some point, but usually you won't have too much interference right where you plug in the RJ45 jack.
@David He’s still at 930k subs. Even if you round that off thats not a mil. And I think with the content he gives out, he belongs up there with Linus, MKBHD, Lew etc.
@@bananaboombox3620 no need to be upset, but 930k is so close to 1mln that you can round it up and honestly 1mln is quite a number in IT channels, but you right the channel is great and worth watching
This is cool to watch. Years ago I lived near downtown Salt Lake City. While there I helped a friend run ethernet through his old home. It was alot of work and made his internet better. We even ran ethernet underground to a shop in his unattached garage.
How you don’t have 5M subs is beyond me. You’re so helpful in what you do. When I started this kind of work, there was nobody like you to help. It’s wonderful knowing that people can find this to inform and learn.
@@darrenbermingham well that's the answer pal, he missed the biggest time to gain millions of subs for his style of channel. ltt and mkbhb both really started gaining traction while he was gone and with tech RUclipsrs a lot of people picked one and stayed there
@@patrickprafke4894 oh! I was watching around that time earlier when I saw your comment, but I was looking in the upper left of the screen, not right behind him to the upper left 😂 nice spot
I'm not even finished with the video, but I wanted to stop and thank you for giving the most complete explanation I've seen so far on adding ethernet to an old house. As a first time home buyer, I was on the verge of freaking out cause I had no idea where to start. Thank you. You got a new subscriber
Very interesting video! I've done something similar in my parents house, which was clearly not designed for networking. It was actually a lot harder because European (or the ones in Greece at least) are made completely out of bricks and cement. No dry walls or plaster anywhere, to easily pass cables! So your best bet in passing through cables is ONLY by reusing pre-existing routes that were meant for other things (like tv, POTS etc.). But with a lot of planning and some compromises, you can actually make it!
I really envy timber framing homes in these type of works, it's so easy to route wires, cables, and pipes. (In our country, Taiwan, we mostly lives in reinforced concrete houses)
That definitely increased the value of that home! Kudos for doing it yourself most would shy away and hire a professional. Also that house seems to be in immaculate shape for it’s age, you definitely have a keeper.
You mean the RJ-45s that let you shove the cable right through the other end? I LOVE them. My house was wired using Cat 5e for telephone, and I eventually used those after having a hell of a time using the classic rj-45 connectors.
I've terminated thousands of RJ-45 connections, mostly with cat6. EZ RJ-45 connectors are pricy, but are the best pass through connectors, and I never experienced a failure with them over the course of years of using them (all indoors). They also sell a tool that not only crimps the connector, but will cut off the excess wire, you can find it most places like Amazon. Also, pro tip on separating your twisted pairs: use a very small, like precision screwdriver size flat head, stick it in between a twisted pair at the base of them where you cut the sheathing back to (an awl works for this, but you can hurt yourself or pierce the wire if you slip up), pull up all the way through, your twisted wires are now perfectly straight except at the tip, cut that off, and now your previously twisted individual wires are as straight as can be.
I have a home that was built in 1865 and LIVED through all of this! Just sad that I did not have this video to learn from when I ran my network. The only thing that I would add: If you are running a single cable, run two of them. I find myself saying "if only I had a second network run". This was primarily in the areas when I installed IP cameras. Great Job!
Great vid! One thing I think is pretty important that you didn’t go over much is the “pull line” or cut line. It’s pretty important to use, because if you are using scissors or the built in stripper on crimpers, a lot of times it will cut through the jacket and it doesn’t take much to get into the cable pairs making them snap easily. Using the cut string will eliminate the risk of having to go pin point an issue and give better durability.
I was fascinated at 03:40 when it was revealed that the house does not have gravity and I must say I'm very impressed with how well it went with the simulator that apparently was used!
@@VictorDude98 Yes. As it pertains to increased difficulty in running cables, as OP suggests. Also the ignorant stereotype that US houses are lower quality is, well, an ignorant stereotype. You guys have older houses because.... you're older. The US is only ~250 years old. There are plenty of structures here that old, or older. We don't have 500 year old houses because no one was here 500 years ago, except for Native Americans, of course. You think Europeans have some kind of magical construction process that the US doesn't have? Stone, brick, and metal?! Holy shit why didn't we think of that! Lmao. We have houses that are way cheaper than the average EU house, we have houses way more expensive, and we have everything in between. You get what you pay for. The idea that someone would buy a cheap house is evidence that "aMeRicAnS dOnT kNOw hOw To buILD tHiNgs" is as asinine as it is ignorant.
@@VictorDude98 yea it absolutely does suck to have a more rigid house when our temp shifts, earthquakes and high wind weather means that our homes have to flex way more than yours to prevent them from collapsing during three seasons of the year.
As someone who passed their A+ certification and is currently studying for their Network+ cert, this eases any tension I had for cabling and how route and make the cables. Thank you.
Although I’m a renter for the foreseeable future, I really really enjoy this type of renovation video presented in your style. I’m sure they’re a hassle to produce, but I hope you make more
As a renter, don't overlook that you can use Gigabit "Powerline Ethernet" adapters (such as those sold by TP-Link). They're great (if you don't mind losing an outlet... they kind of block both outlets due to case design)
A year late, but a note about the rip-string inside the cable (19:00) - You actually WANT to use this to rip the jacket down below where you did the initial stripping to, because even with the fancy stripping tool you showed it is still very easy to nick a single wire to the point where you break the wire or at least weaken it so it breaks at some point in the future. They don't just include this rip-string because they can, the include it because it's practically necessary.
This is a good point, especially if youre going by th echeap and use a knife sizzors etc. or even lesser expensive stripers (who doesn't like cheap strippers anyway?) However when doing data centers, or larger networking the tools are designed to be exact so that precide cable lengths are cut for wire dressing.
A few comments on this to explain some things better: pin 1 is green/white pin 2 is green pin 3 is orange/white pin 4 is blue pin 5 is blue/white pin 6 is orange pin 7 is brown/white pin 8 is brown This is the T568A or as you said type A config. The T568B or type B has the following layout pin 1 is orange/white pin 2 is orange pin 3 is green/white pin 4 is blue pin 5 is blue/white pin 6 is green pin 7 is brown/white pin 8 is brown The difference is pin 1 and 2 are switched to pin 3 and 6. This is because it was used to make a cross cable, type A on one end, type B on the other end. Why? Because this is how the pins are used: pin 1 is TX+ pin 2 is TX- pin 3 is RX+ pin 6 is RX- Today most ethernet equipment is MDIX which means it automatically senses these pairs for transmission or reception, so it doesn't matter whether you use type A or B. On older equipment is does make the difference to connect or not. So what about pin 4 and 5? These are used for telephone lines. No need to wire your house with extra telephone lines, you could just use this pair for that. In fact you can actually click a RJ11 telephone plug into the RJ45 socket and make it work. Pin 7 and 8 for POE, power over ethernet, today mainly used for IP cameras. It eleminates the use of extra power cables. Since these two pairs (4,5 and 7,8) are generally not used, in some rare case they could be used to have a second ethernet connection over the same cable. Not advisable but it is possible. I've use this when I needed to connect my doorbell and ip cam located at the gate away from my house. The tube that lead to the gate only permitted one cable, so this was the solution.
Would the method you mentioned to send two connections on one cable require you to terminate pins 1,2,3,6 on one RJ45 connector and use the remaining four cables to mimic "1,2,3,6" on a second connector on both ends of the cable? Or is it somehow possible to just make two terminations one one end for two devices and somehow configure a switch to send a signal to a customizable set of pairs in the ethernet cableing? Or am I just overcomplicating things in my head lol
@@TromboneSauce Your first assumption is right. One RJ45 has pins 1,2,3,6 as normal, while the second RJ45 has pin 1 on the blue wire, pin 2 on the blue/white wire, pin 3 on the brown/white wire and pin 6 on the brown wire. On the other end of the cable it's exactly the same.
if there is power at gate, one could use switch there. if not, you can actually get poe powered passthrough switch. or hack your own. if you look harder, you find managed 5p switches too. overkill or not, having 2 eth devices there already is anyway. and i actually do use single cat5 two 100m at here a lot because i'm a cheap one. my current managed switch is 100m anyway and i like it managed. besides, you might not need the bw
@@ketas yes a switch could be an option, but, in this case there was no room at the gate and from a security pov it's not a very good idea. I actually hacked the video doorbell and added a small OLED display with an arduino nano integrated into the doorbell case. I barely had room to make all the connections. And I also went cheap and fast, I'll admit that. :)
10 and 100 megabit use two pairs but 1000 megabit uses all four pairs. So using one cable for two connections will limit each connection to a maximum of 100 megabits. This may be an issue in some use cases. Decades ago I worked in a 40 floor office building where the whole building was wired up with one ethernet cable per desk. By the time all the infrastructure cabling was completed it was realised that many staff required more than one ethernet connection. So hundreds of desks had ethernet splitters to split one cable into two. Essentally splitting two pairs to one cable and two pairs to the other. Then in the communications room there were patch panels that were wired up to act as splitters. So a lan connection would go from the network hub to the splitting patch panel and then from the splitting patch pane to the floor distribution patch panel then out on the floor it went through an inline splitter to then go to the workstation. Very messy, especially for a brand new, whole building re-cabling. In the future this got even worse when the owners decided to squeeze in additional desks and so two separate desks would share a single cable via a splitter. So many faults and so much confusion. Especially with the end users pugging and unplugging connections in an attempt to find a working connection. Splitters were moved to other desks and then reported as faulty when they couldn't get two connections to work on a cable that wasn't configured for splitter. Of course when you arrived to fix the chaos everyone swore that nobody had touched anything. 🤔
I just did the same thing to my house. Before I started planning, I called a local company that does this in my rural neck of the woods, and they charge $90 an hour. Save several thousand indeed.
@@JTrizzo8 when we moved to rural Oregon we’d not got a lot of time for DIY projects because of a simultaneous family crisis. We had to spend $2,000 on a flood wire for a 2,000 square foot home. That was for 26 patch bays....
The color sequence when terminating a cable does matter - the pairs are matched to help cancel out cross talk, especially at higher speeds. Under short runs this doesn’t really matter, but the longer your run the more likely you are to have high losses or not even get a link if you choose your own order. Given its color coded on the keystones and tools you might as well use one of the TIA standards - lots of smart people argued for weeks to come up with them 🤣
Drove me nuts when he said that.... There's also different rate of twist. I cannot count the number of problematic LAN paths I have troubleshot that just turned out to be using wrong pairs. This matters more the higher run distance. Also, I I were going through all of this work, I'd run 6a. It much more future proof. Last, use plenum or riser grade cabling. This minimizes the potential for this being a source or poisonous gas should you ever have a home fire.
I’ve worked for a few different Internet companies now that do this kinda of stuff and let me tell you, it’s definitely a nice thing to know how to do. This guy knows his stuff🤛🏼
About Ethernet categories: my house was fully wired with CAT5e. I needed 10Gb speeds so I was ready to re-wire the whole thing with CAT6. Although, after extensive tests I discovered that CAT5e can carry 10Gb speeds just fine within the distances of a normal sized house. So, if you have CAT5e installed, give it a try before replacing it with CAT6, it may just work.
Nice! I've heard this before, but I wonder, how do you get your equipment to play along with that? If you plug a short enough CAT5e cable into two 10gbps ports on either end, is that enough?
@@kusucks991 The main difference between Cat 6 and Cat 5 is the bandwidth. Cat 6 cables are made with materials, shiledings and overall quality to sustain higher amount of data. That being said CAT 6 and CAT 5 provide the same exact connection on both ends. So, within short distances, they are interchangeable. If you plug in a CAT 5 cable between two 10Gb devices, they will attempt a 10Gb connection regardless of the cable quality. If the cable can’t keep up, you will see loss of packets and errors. In my case the “short distance” was at least 50 feet! My office is downstairs, the server is upstairs. During my tests I pulled a flying temp CAT 6 cable through the stairs and compared that connection with the CAT5e in the wall. No difference. I assumed they used good quality CAT5e cables when they built my house! Long story short, if you have CAT 5 cables handy, I think it is worth it to test them before buying CAT 6, but if you need to install a 10Gb from scratch, absolutely get the best cable you can afford.
A couple of years later, but I'm glad to see this comment. Yesterday I started researching upgrading my home to Ethernet instead of just wifi and found there's cat 5e wiring throughout the house. Thought I would have to re-run cat 6, but glad to see cat 5e will be sufficient enough
This was great! You need a part 2 to explain all the choices like PoE or networking diagram format and actual network boxes in walls. That would be amazing. Still the best vid so far.
I can't stand using flex bits lol. I started a job last year and have learned how to do all of this slowly and it's crazy how much I've learned and how much I still have yet to learn about networking and control systems. Crazy stuff. Awesome video!
Glad to see you mentioned that stapler. A few years ago, I had a job where someone had stapled the cable down, with wire staples, including right into and around corners, so there were right angle bends in the cable. I had to remove that and do the job properly.
Well done, almost giving me the course to undertake this project in 2023. If I may ask, are you able to share what the total cost was of the project? Are you able to share what you’d do differently a year after posting? Any new tech you wish you would have used? My 3,100 sq ft. home needs this and thanks in advance for giving me the courage to consider doing this. I’d love an update if there is one. Thanks!
Having done a fraction of what is shown in the video, one thing I would suggest (which is kind of a no-brainer), is there are newer Unify APs available. I went with the U6 Long-Range. The single AP on the ground floor gives acceptable coverage for me even on the third floor. Probably Quinn could get away with fewer APs if he did it again! I would +1 the message in the video. Take the leap. It is not terribly difficult, or even terribly expensive for most home improvement projects, just time consuming. Take your time, measure twice to get the holes in the right place, and start small. Do one run, see how it goes, and keep chipping at it until you've executed your dream plan! One thing I already know I would have done differently, is I should have considered buying the right-size auger bit by doing a little planning and calculating the diameter of wire to run through each chase. My only option is in-wall runs, and it's pretty damn difficult to get the string through the hole the first time, so I would minimize the number of holes! And make sure to get your new box on the same height as any existing boxes in the room. I mis-measured, and my new Ethernet is a solid half inch above the nearby outlet. It looks pretty amateurish!
@@MaxxPlay99 completely unrelated. also, texas doesnt get all that cold, so that level of cold snap was unexpected. also the prep northern people do in winter simply isnt needed down south most years, and the energy industry thought the same thing. they found out they were wrong the hard way, and thats all there is to it
I recently rewired my apartment. Totally worth it. A single, straight run for everything and using a single managed switch to check the connections (and do monitoring; the phone would alert me if anything drops to 100mb/s, or go silent) is amazing. I do not have and old house now, but maybe I will and will give crap load of bandwitch to it. This is really informative, thank You. I usually test my cables using and old router and laptop without fancy tools and wigle it to check if the line is solid.
texas roadhouse is a whole vibe, you should try the little slider burgers they may seem small but fill you pretty good and if that isn't enough get fries but load them up with cheese and bacon bits it may be a large mass of cheesy bacony fries but it will finish filling you up also it will save you like 6$ just saying...
Can I just say that I love and appreciate how detailed your videos are when it comes to these things. I am in a small apartment so I won't be doing any of this, but I did get some ideas from your HomeKit video which was also extremely and educational to watch. So thank you for all the hard work!
Same to me, we don't really see that here as we generally bury them, although Fiber is quite durable compared to copper (we don't really have much fiber), you can even string it on a power pole if you have to.
Yeah, unfortunately cost rules all in North America. It's much cheaper for them to just strap it to the outside wall. They do bury the fibre feeding the home usually. It drives me insane, unless of course the installer has some pride in their work and they do the best they can to hide it. I work in telecoms and I run my lines as if it was my own home. As hidden as I can do it and as straight as possible! Having OCD really helps with this lol
Kennt jemand ein ähnliches Video bei dem das für ein deutsches Haus gemacht wird? Überlege auch mein Haus mit LAN auszustatten, aber ich glaube ein amerikanisches Video hilft da nicht viel
Now for a real comment. Its nice to see old buildings restored instead of tearing them down. I miss our farm and house. Mom walked in and told her sister lets get out of here, but Dad wanted to see the place. He had a stroke the year before. So mom took him to see the farm. Dad said I want this place. So after the following summer all the relatives said you buying this farm was the best therapy you could purchase. Dad looked better and felt better. Hard work is the best thing for recovery. In 1976 early 1977 we sold the farm. We had 2 other properties we had to sell before moving to Florida. Kinda hard going from a 50 acre farm to just a house and quarter acre. Dad always found something to do. My oldest sister and her lake front property kept him busy. 73
Well done - that’s quite a feat. Also, I absolutely love your home’s crown molding and wainscoting (especially around the doors!) Thats one of the best charms about an old home
Not sure if anyone else noticed this but when you're down in your crawlspace right about 11:10 into the video there are very creepy what seems to be glowing eyes in the back that fade away into the dark, maybe nothing but was kinda creepy. 😱
and for that matter older than the US. I do marvel at the fact that if I were to go to England, I'd be standing on soil that has been colonized for way longer than the US.
Very informative and quirky. Being a network techie myself, it's a breath of fresh air to relax and watch stuff like this with comical value... I also never thought about using the shielding to untwist pairs my years of work. learn something new every day lol.
I genuinely enjoyed this video. I like your sense of humor and the tips for running cable. However, as far as I can tell, this is just a gigabit network, not 10G. While your cable runs can certainly _support_ 10G, the UDM Pro only has a gigabit switch built-in. It's possible you have a 10G switch connected to the UDM via its 10G SFP+ ports that wasn't shown, but I wish that information was shared. I was hoping for how best to set up a 10G network beyond the type of cable to choose. Anyway, still a great video. Thanks.
His point was to touch on the importance of future proof the part that requires a lot of work and upgrade costs are minimal. Buying a 10Gb/s switch is overkill, expensive, and by the time 10Gb/s becomes relevant in most homes, switches will be better.
Only thing id add is making sure your drill settings are set to drill mode and no hammer. Thanks man! this tool was way easier than drilling from the crawlspace and guessing.
Important: If you're crimping and terminating your own cables, you need VERY VERY short amounts of untwisted wires. Gotta keep it tight and compact, or you lose all the advantage of that CAT6 (6a, 7, etc) cable you just paid extra for. I actually prefer to use premade cables when at all possible. Cable cost increase for your average home is negligible, and the amount of time needed to faff about crimping cables is just not worth the extra few dollars. Then you can use Keystone couplers instead of keystone jacks, both in the wallplates and the patch panel, and everything is suddenly SUPER modular.
Was looking for this, untwisting your pairs introduces crosstalk and interference that essentially sends you back to cat 5 specs. Cat 6 needs to remain twisted to the point of termination.
I live in Germany and my house was also built before 1900 and although I'm pretty sure it will stand strongly for the next 150 years to come. But due to the thickness of the walls DIY-ing your networking becomes a little harder when you have to use 50cm+ stone drill bits that have to be able to drill through the double-layered brick walls.
@@svw1999 same here - but honestly: with a proper long drill bit (LIDL has some every couple of months) you will even do holes through concrete ceilings just fine.
@@svw1999 double brick is at least drillable. My House had 3 or 4 expansions done by my grandfather pre and post WW2. We have everything from Cobblestone over solid brick to hollow cinderbrick in here.
Will you be making a video on your ubiquity setup and security system ? Looking into that right now , would LOVE to see your perspective and pointers on it before I jump in on anything!
Little trick i learnt, if you push a mini screwdriver between the 2 wires of a pair and pull up to untwist them, it straightens the wires perfectly, making it far easier to push them in to a RJ45 plug. Also passthrough RJ45 plugs are a godsend!
Great watching someone else try any network a 100 year old home. Been trying to do the same and it’s a huge balance between what’s easy and what’s best. Thanks!
@@snazzy My parents 50 year old house is made of solid concrete (and bricks for the outside) without any cable ducts whatsoever. We literally have to chisel a path along the wall, drill a hole up to the attic (which is just hell of glas wool insulation, a few movable planks to rob from beam to beam and nice asbestos tiles above), run the cable to whichever room needs it and then either chisel there again or live with a cable dangling from the roof. After that the damaged wall needs to be closed again with fresh plaster, primed (not sure if that's the right translation. We use "Tiefengrund") and the segment of the wallpaper gets replaced.
my brand new house they just built in 2020 isn't wired with ethernet I even tried to pay more for them to do it but my basement is unfinished witch means I can still wire easily!
@@maxroman2010 oh I know that's why I commented. Ethernet should be standard in all new homes but even in 2020 it's just not. They all expect you to use wireless and look at you like a deer caught in headlights when you say I don't want to use wireless.
Ha, if only! 😀 In my experience it's "do the wiring before finishing the walls... and the floors... and the ceilings... otherwise, lift floorboards, chase out masonry walls, drill holes through joists, run the cables, and then redo the walls, floors, ceilings etc.". Conduits are great if they exist, but in my experience conduits are only installed where they need to be, which means they are already full of single-insulated power cables... I know things differ between countries but I'd be surprised if any European wiring standards allow you to run network cables in the same conduit as single-insulated cables.
@@donkmeister oh no i wasn’t talking about like the power conduits, i was talking about if someone had installed sometime ago a tv signal or telephone conduit or something like that
@@xythiera7255 maybe because people don’t tend to think a lot about the future, 20 years ago a TV conduit was everything you needed, maybe add a phone line in there too if you want access to “the internet”, nowadays we are thinking “ethernet is what we need”, probably in some years we will need another different cable around the house but who knows, probably in that time we’ll be able to have done at least one major renovation in our houses i guess?
@@xythiera7255 Simple answer: It costs more and people that are building a house have to spend their money were it really matters, since the budget is usually fixed. So who cared in e.g. the 70s about being able to later route ethernet through their house? They only needed enough power in each room, a Telephone and their analog TV antenna.
What you mean 129ys is a super new house ?. How old is a Century old farm house. Pluse he has no realy isolation to worry about just replacing old cabels with new ones.
Connect the wires of the Ethernet cable in the standard order so the next person to work with it (you, only a few short months from now, perhaps) won’t have more trouble than necessary.
I also went with a CAT6e network cables for my house. Every TV room has 2 RJ45 ports in the wall below the TVs with either a 5 to 8 port Netgear switch. Like you I also went with a unifi udm pro & unifi 24 port poe switch for my indoor and outdoor network cameras. 2 wifi access points. I did this back in Oct of 2020. Probably the best investment I ever made.
19:35 The order absolutely DOES matter, exactly because the twists in the pairs of cable are important. Different pins carry different frequencies, and the twists help reject interference at those frequencies. The only pairs you can interchange are Orange and Green, because that's the only difference between the two major wiring standards. (And if you swap them on one end of a cable, you make a crossover cable that lets two devices talk without a switch or hub.) There's a reason even 10/100 Ethernet runs like hot garbage on 8-conductor satin cord (old phone system and serial stuff with no twists at all), and why Cat5 doesn't carry gigabit reliably (but 5e and 6 do). The rest of your advice is solid, but going with a set standard is a point to drive home, not brush off as a nice-to-do. Always make patch cables like this: WO, O, WG, B, WB, G, WB, B or like this: WG, G, WO, B, WB, O, WB, B You also want to make sure you aren't running your network cables in parallel and close proximity with AC line voltage wiring. That's an open invitation for signal noise and poor network performance. The big difference between Riser and Plenum is that Plenum doesn't give off toxic fumes when it burns. Technically if you run network cabling in a basement that's also living space, it should be plenum. Check your local building codes. Residential low-voltage is kind of a wild west as far as code enforcement goes, so you're probably fine with Riser in most cases.
I just love old houses, love that antique feel, and the feel of leaving a footprint in the home of modern tech, like who knew 129 years ago that someone in the far future would be installing a ethernet port to use om a computer to access an enourmous level of information, data, gaming, moving images. Thena few years later upgrading that access to a hyper speed one. Im a 129 year old house
This is one of the best videos to watch for home networking. I live in the UK and had my house wired up. Unfortunately my electrician didn’t know what he was doing and I had to redo a lot of the terminations myself. This video was super helpful. I want to make one correction to the video. Always follow t568b for cat6 and above. Whilst he is correct that for the cable to work the order of the the wires need to be the same order on both ends, the exact standard also matters. Not following standard B (t568b) for data will limit you to 10/100mbps speeds because of cross talk in the cable. Standard b eliminates this issue. I have personally tested this. Also for a cheaper alternative to ubiquiti for in wall access points, consider TP omada (just make sure you order the correct version for your needs).
It sounds like you had 1-2 pairs not terminated properly to get those speeds. Cross talk on anything cat5e wouldnt get that severe unless the loop was longer then recommended specs. Cat6 specifically separates the twisted pairs to reduce cross talk overall which is how its able to get higher speeds on longer loops than cat5e. The only way you would get 10-100mbps speeds over that would be loop length or improper termination (or even a damaged cable). Not T568a vs T568b. Sincerely a telco tech :).
Use my special link www.privateinternetaccess.com/snazzy to get a 77% discount and 30-day-money back guarantee!
Protip: give the external cables an extra shielding, not against UV Light, but against animals, like martens, raccoons and Birds!
It will save you quite a bit of headache down the line.
I don't think the picture of Quin looked flattering in PIA's link. Really liked the video. Thanks for sharing
Hey Quinn, could you share those home mapping and planning apps! Those look super useful!
The annoying part is when you think you have the easy one of just pulling out the coax then you find out the builders stapled it to the stud and it's not the kind of staples that allow it to move. 🤬
Every color in the cat6 is twisted differently, which makes the order matter. Different signals, different twistings...
I've been working with ethernet for at least 15 years, and this is the best explained video I've seen. Congratulations 👏🏻👏🏻
I learned from vets at my last job, and they didn't teach me that great jacket tip, thanks! Also, that Klein terminator is about as handy as they come, and it includes a cable stripper near the pivot. For learning colors, one tip if you go B and orange white first (which you should probably) is to remember clip on the connector down, and white stripe first in each pair except the middle color, blue and blue-white.
@@vanforsman I know!! I'm using the jacket trick next time. No more scratched fingertips 😁
Agreed. It was great.
Same
Been on doing for 8 years and I agree with you
I just get a bit trigger when no one uses the protection for the RJ45´s head ( the plastic covers)... I don´t know the exact name in English, I guess I got used to use it in Enterprise clients and my own home.
This is probably one of the most original, genuinely entertaining/informational, and well produced RUclips videos that I’ve watched for some time. Thank you!
I don’t know about “original” LTT has seemingly made it his mission to finance his home retrofits with RUclips Adsense money lol
@@ryanwallace983 hmm I forgot about those, you’re right. Tho Linus’ house is just another ltt set at this point, or I’m sure he’d like it to be so he can spend company finances on it
@@ryanwallace983 I think this is a little more structured for knowledge rather than LTT where there’s has an entertainment aspect too. I like both styles, however.
Agreed! *Calls to wife* "HONEY! I HAVE A NEW PROJECT THIS WEEKEND! GOING TO BE MAKING SOME HOLES IN THE WALLS! YOU COOL WITH THAT?!"
@@kim_not_tim the concept is similar is what I was getting at
As someone who works in IT involving all this cabling, you did a great job explaining everything in really approachable ways to those with even zero experience. I also appreciate covering the options you chose not to go with, but could be relevant for others. Kudos to that.
As someone who used to do all this for a living, I still enjoyed the heck out of this video and was engaged the whole time. I have made thousands of Cat-5e patches by hand and literally never knew the trick of using the stripped jacket to untwist them. I'm glad there's someone out there making this stuff easy for homeowners to understand and DIY.
Really lol...ive seen it on every single video i clicked 😂
Me too. Loved the Video. I don’t understand all the other comments 🧐
I can't imagine the amount of planning, work, and editing that went into this video. Respect.
Thank you!!
The entire video is a heck of a lot advertising and he most most most probably (almost certainly) got all of the stuff for free. The biggest pain is to pull the cables. The rest is super simple. I do this all day long, so I know what it's all about.
@@isaackvasager9957 Who are you???
@@Blubb5000 Have you ever filmed the whole process, clearly explained every detail (even background on the methods that aren't relevant to you, but may be to your audience) while making sure to get perfect angles of all the pertinent stuff so any one can follow along? Sounds like a pretty painstaking, tedious and time-consuming process to me, especially given his unique house situation and having to figure most of the variables out on his first go-around.
@@MrCapsMan The entire process to retrofit an old house is actually pretty simple. I did this with the house I bought and I do this amongst other things as my job in the business world, where the requirements are much more demanding.
I actually made training videos for our employees. No, I won't post the videos... these are for our company only.
The vast amount of people don't need gigabit ethernet in every room. One connection for the main computer and one for the "wife", directly attached to the router that you get from your ISP, is enough for 95% of all people. Place an access point in the middle of the house and you're good.
I have a 3 story (wood) house and I've strategically placed a single Apple Airport Extreme dead center in the physical middle of the house (hallway). My 2 kids, me and my wife have worry free WiFi throughout the house. Browsing, video calling, downloading gigs of stuff works perfectly fine.
I also have currently overall 71 light bulbs from Wiz (Philips), which connect via WiFi bulbs to the entire network and I can control them through an app, from my computer and remote controls, which I installed instead of regular light switches.
My network is pretty busy and there is no problem at all.
Snazzy is completely overdoing his effort in his new (old) house. This is understandable, because he has to make a lining and such sponsors, who pay for the entire thing, help him being independent.
11:09 I thought I would find a lot of people mentioning it in the comment but apparently not
i thought i was the only one. those creepy eyes! haha
😂
Came here to see this same comment
nice subtle edits, loved it
I'm as surprised as you to not see many people commenting about it.
It's actually pretty important to use Keystones instead of just continuing the cable out of the wall. For one, most in-wall rated cables are solid core, which means each wire is made out of solid copper. These have better distance performance and longer life, but are stiffer and can work harden and break if bent around a lot. Patch cables typically use stranded core, kind of like speaker wire, made up of a lot of small strands of copper per wire. Also, if you break a wire coming out of a wall, you could end up needing to replace it if say it needs to reach 4ft into the room and you broke it at 2 ft. Whereas with a keystone you can just replace the patch cable and all your wires in the wall are safe.
I know this is an old comment, but there’s one thing that I would say justifies just having a cable sticking out of the wall: *_plaster walls_*. It’s _so_ annoying to cut through or even drill through that I would say just having the wire sticking out is fine.
@@myrealusername2193 If u want to just have it hanging go on but professional installers would say use a keystone as the head comment here explained perfectly. I would rather install a cheap cable instead of a more expensive cables used to run behind walls which you really should consider using.
@@myrealusername2193 if that's the case then just use a surface mount box to punch down the wire to a keystone then. This is common along with cable raceway on walls with concrete, glass, and brick.
@@JustSomeGuy009 surface mount jacks with rear entry are exactly what that situation calls for. No reason not to do it right.
@@myrealusername2193 Yes but as the guy said especially with solid copper wire, which is what pretty much everybody that has ethernet cable running through their house has, just simply running the cable directly from the wall to the device is quite risky as it becomes weak very quickly and breaks when bent and moved around even a handful of times. and if it does you're kinda fucked because you have to remove that cable completely and replace it if it's not long enough to reach your device. its really not much more time and money to go the extra mile and do it correctly.
Great video. I have been using unifi for a few years now and love the product. My house isn’t as old, but I too had crawl under my crawl space to run wire in my house. Love the creepy green eyes that appear in background (11:11) as you say the crawlspace isn’t haunted by Pennywise!
i wonder in europe how it is possible...imean ahah
haha i noticed that too, immediately went to comments to see if anyone saw those eyes!
Nice Easter egg lol
Can't find it... where are them eyes
@@Appri you see the white cable bunches at the bottom - see the black tape on top of one of the bunches - slowly look up the sceen in straight line - you will see two white eyes 🙂
I work in IT now but I worked as a infrastructure installer for several years, it brings a smile to my face seeing you do what was my job for 4 years
I love watching people suffer through what I used to do for a living.
Had to laugh about his naive comments about interior wall cabling. Everywhere I've ever worked, there's been a building code required fire dam right in the middle of the wall. Nothing works on that besides a really long drill bit and time spent in the Attic getting Hanta virus from the mouse droppings.
Who knew Quinn had suuuuuch good taste in interior design. That home is flawless. Practically my dream house.
11:09 - Dude that face in the darkness really caught me off guard.
but did you see the eyes in the background at 11:13 ?
This is how horror movies start.
Nice profile pic
This is why I don’t watch this at 3 am
I hope if was a joke
Great video...However, at the 14:50 mark, Do NOT cut the drywall out until you know where the electric wire is coming from in the plug next to it. Turn off the power and take off the plate to the plugs and try and determine where the power cables are coming from so you do not cut into them and either visit your maker or at the very least visit a hospital...
If you must work around live wires, because you are stubborn or something, at least use the one-hand rule. Only expose one hand, not two to the possible live area. The idea is that, if you get electrocuted, the current will travel through only your hand hopefully back to the ground of whatever it came from. If you use two hands, one side touches hot, and the other becomes ground, the current travels through your heart, and you die. Keep in mind that this will not guarantee that you live. It will only increase the odds.
Last words: You don't tell me what to do!!!
Depends on how you cut it. If using the multitool, you can cut the drywall without going very far into the wall. If using the knife, you can still take precautions to prevent injury, though might mangle electrical wire and have to replace it if you cut too deep. I think the best option is to drill a couple pilot holes; one for you to look through, and the other to shine a light through. This way, you can actually see if there is a wire in the way and know how to work around it, as it's not feasible to be able to determine which direction a run is coming from looking at the inside of the electrical box.
he used a stud finder to find the studs first. The outlet is usually mounted on the stud with the wire stapled to the same stud. Also to make you feel better, Most of the time that wire will be ran min 6in above the outlet when it passes stud to stud.
I’m a structured cabling professional and thought this video was excellent and easy to understand for beginners.
Glad to hear complements from industry experts. Thanks so much!!
I work in structured cabling (Greenfield and brownfield) as well, He did a fantastic job!
You certainly SHOULD terminate in a specific order rather than “as long as both colors are the same at either end”. The twisted pairs are paired that way that they are inverted polarity to protect against interference.
Source: I work as a Network Engineer
This needs to be higher up, please for the love of Jesus and your mother end all cables to a spec, preferably B.
@@wesleybradley89 THIS. TIMES. INFINITY. (and beyond!) 568B is preferred, largely because it's the most popular iteration. Just don't terminate one end using 568A and the other using 568B, because you'll cross over the orange and green pairs. (and your tester device will rightfully complain!) Doing this intentionally means you've made a crossover cable, which is normally used to directly connect two computers two each other without a switch in between.
Should have clarified better in the video. As long as the cables are on the same end, they should work, but performance will be impacted and there are reasons for which the standards exist. Type-B is the way to go and it’s what I’ve done everywhere.
Making up your own pinout defeats the whole point of running Cat6. (Even untwisting too much cable before the RJ or keystone defeats the point, but that's just going off into the weeds of pedantry...)
White-Orange, Orange, White-Green, Blue, White-Blue, Green, White-Brown, Brown.
Every time, one exception (when you're making crossover cables for devices that can't auto-MDIX, swap Green and Orange on one end).
@@needfuldoer4531 well the same is true for using unshielded rj45 connectors for Cat7/Cat6a though it is done a lot and for the most part is fine. Having electromagnetic interference for the whole cable run are very probable since it probably is close to AC wiring at some point, but usually you won't have too much interference right where you plug in the RJ45 jack.
this is such an underrated channel.
Thanks so much!!
@David He’s still at 930k subs. Even if you round that off thats not a mil. And I think with the content he gives out, he belongs up there with Linus, MKBHD, Lew etc.
bruh he was 1mil. that is so, so, far from underrated
@@hand-burger well i’m sorry for thinking he deserves more lmao
@@bananaboombox3620 no need to be upset, but 930k is so close to 1mln that you can round it up and honestly 1mln is quite a number in IT channels, but you right the channel is great and worth watching
This is cool to watch. Years ago I lived near downtown Salt Lake City. While there I helped a friend run ethernet through his old home. It was alot of work and made his internet better. We even ran ethernet underground to a shop in his unattached garage.
How you don’t have 5M subs is beyond me. You’re so helpful in what you do. When I started this kind of work, there was nobody like you to help. It’s wonderful knowing that people can find this to inform and learn.
Thanks so much! We will get there eventually!
@@snazzy and you’re almost 50K away from a MILLION!
he quit uploading for like four years while on his mission to south america and missed one of the biggest growth periods for youtubers.
@@kobysimmons6081 I know. I watched.
@@darrenbermingham well that's the answer pal, he missed the biggest time to gain millions of subs for his style of channel. ltt and mkbhb both really started gaining traction while he was gone and with tech RUclipsrs a lot of people picked one and stayed there
When he's first in the crawlspace, watching the eyes on the upper left slowly fade out was hilarious.
Timestamp?
Its about 11:08.
@@patrickprafke4894 oh! I was watching around that time earlier when I saw your comment, but I was looking in the upper left of the screen, not right behind him to the upper left 😂 nice spot
@@SouthernWolff lol. Yeah. Threw me for a loop the first time and I laughed.
Great little easter egg! Didn’t notice it the first time I watched it. Honestly, while he was in that crawlspace I was waiting for a rat to bite him.
I'm not even finished with the video, but I wanted to stop and thank you for giving the most complete explanation I've seen so far on adding ethernet to an old house.
As a first time home buyer, I was on the verge of freaking out cause I had no idea where to start.
Thank you. You got a new subscriber
welcome in europe, dear!
Late to the party, but I just bought a 90-year-old house. I needed this video SO badly! Your video is ironically...timeless, even three years later!
11:12 there are creepy “eyes” in the middle left of the screen!
I thought I was the I my one hommie was the ghost in his house
yeah, kinda creepy..i didn't notice the first time
wtfffffffffff
Okay. It wasn’t just me that saw those eyes then
I put the video on 4K and the face looks like Pennywise as soon as he said “Pennywise definitely doesn’t reside here”
11:14 there’s eyes in the back of the basement
I hope it was his editing cause if ain't the case my dude snazzing the fuck Outta that house in 10gigabit speed
went to the comments just to see if anyone else noticed 👀
11:10 till 11:20 it is pennywise
I don’t see what you guys are talking about.
@@snazzy Their brightness is maxed out😂 I just turned mine up and found them
Oh shoot it's you! Nvm ur just screwing with us lol
“Uh oh, I’m a stud” pmsl. That’s a great Dad joke right there. Will defo be using that one.
If you haven't heard that joke until now then you are a disappointment to all dads. Smh
But Quinn has no kids (yet). He's a faux pa.
Its actually a requirement to complete the stud test prior to use. Similar to 3 clicks on tongs.
@@leefhead1 as well as pulling the trigger of a drill before using
@@cardsfanbj faux-pop
Very interesting video! I've done something similar in my parents house, which was clearly not designed for networking. It was actually a lot harder because European (or the ones in Greece at least) are made completely out of bricks and cement. No dry walls or plaster anywhere, to easily pass cables! So your best bet in passing through cables is ONLY by reusing pre-existing routes that were meant for other things (like tv, POTS etc.). But with a lot of planning and some compromises, you can actually make it!
holy crap i got scared at 11:15
I almost shit myself! I was like ?!(*!?@?$
Same here
Dude. I nearly jumped!
Nobody saw what ur talking about so u only got 85 likes
Thanks for telling me, now I can’t not think about it. It’s 2am right now
I really envy timber framing homes in these type of works, it's so easy to route wires, cables, and pipes. (In our country, Taiwan, we mostly lives in reinforced concrete houses)
wow.....that would be a challenge
Yeah, I was expecting a concrete house since it's 129 years old and maybe apply some thing to mine -- but I guess not!
11:13 mark, I love the eyes you put in the background. nice easter egg.
That definitely increased the value of that home! Kudos for doing it yourself most would shy away and hire a professional. Also that house seems to be in immaculate shape for it’s age, you definitely have a keeper.
Thank you!!
Just did this for my 100 year old home as well. Can't tell if this video is fun to watch or stressful, lol
Great video as always :)
Drilled my holes from below, had no idea this super long drillbit existed crossing my fingers that you didn't hit any joists! :)
11:17 lmao at the editor's choice to put pennywise or something in the shot after that comment
It did scare me, ngl.
@@kyleleungrulez lmao same
I was looking for this comment
I've never seen those passthru connectors before. Very useful!
they are so much better :D i have never seen them either
You mean the RJ-45s that let you shove the cable right through the other end? I LOVE them. My house was wired using Cat 5e for telephone, and I eventually used those after having a hell of a time using the classic rj-45 connectors.
Just don't use them for anything outdoors - they are very to short out.
Passthrough connectors can cause issues with Poe equipment. Sometimes it’s not worth the extra 5-10 minutes saved when doing a big job.
I've terminated thousands of RJ-45 connections, mostly with cat6. EZ RJ-45 connectors are pricy, but are the best pass through connectors, and I never experienced a failure with them over the course of years of using them (all indoors). They also sell a tool that not only crimps the connector, but will cut off the excess wire, you can find it most places like Amazon.
Also, pro tip on separating your twisted pairs: use a very small, like precision screwdriver size flat head, stick it in between a twisted pair at the base of them where you cut the sheathing back to (an awl works for this, but you can hurt yourself or pierce the wire if you slip up), pull up all the way through, your twisted wires are now perfectly straight except at the tip, cut that off, and now your previously twisted individual wires are as straight as can be.
I have a home that was built in 1865 and LIVED through all of this! Just sad that I did not have this video to learn from when I ran my network. The only thing that I would add: If you are running a single cable, run two of them. I find myself saying "if only I had a second network run". This was primarily in the areas when I installed IP cameras. Great Job!
19:20 blew my mind! wow what a great tip
Yeah, same! I used to do a LOT of ethernet cabling and I never figured that one out.
Great vid! One thing I think is pretty important that you didn’t go over much is the “pull line” or cut line. It’s pretty important to use, because if you are using scissors or the built in stripper on crimpers, a lot of times it will cut through the jacket and it doesn’t take much to get into the cable pairs making them snap easily. Using the cut string will eliminate the risk of having to go pin point an issue and give better durability.
I'm gonna do something just like this in a couple years. I have laff and plaster walls too. Thanks for making this ahead if time!
*lathe
I was fascinated at 03:40 when it was revealed that the house does not have gravity and I must say I'm very impressed with how well it went with the simulator that apparently was used!
This feeling when you live in European brick house and I can't just cut a square in my wall to do this
sucks to suck
@@user-nh3gu1ge3d Sucks to have a higher quality and more rigid house?
@@VictorDude98 Yes. As it pertains to increased difficulty in running cables, as OP suggests. Also the ignorant stereotype that US houses are lower quality is, well, an ignorant stereotype. You guys have older houses because.... you're older. The US is only ~250 years old. There are plenty of structures here that old, or older. We don't have 500 year old houses because no one was here 500 years ago, except for Native Americans, of course.
You think Europeans have some kind of magical construction process that the US doesn't have? Stone, brick, and metal?! Holy shit why didn't we think of that! Lmao. We have houses that are way cheaper than the average EU house, we have houses way more expensive, and we have everything in between. You get what you pay for. The idea that someone would buy a cheap house is evidence that "aMeRicAnS dOnT kNOw hOw To buILD tHiNgs" is as asinine as it is ignorant.
@@VictorDude98 yea it absolutely does suck to have a more rigid house when our temp shifts, earthquakes and high wind weather means that our homes have to flex way more than yours to prevent them from collapsing during three seasons of the year.
@@user-nh3gu1ge3d bro half ur country gets destroyed by a hurricane cuz you can't build houses properly
Alternative title: adding 10 gigabit speed internet into my 129 year old home but it only works every time someone presses the door bell
Worse - it only works UNTIL someone presses the doorbell
Much worse: it stops when pressed again
@@hokkida Much MUCH worse...It only works when the mother-in-law is pressing the door bell!
It also slows down to 128k when they turn on the 3 bar heater cause the wiring can't take it, but on those cold days it's totally worth it.
okey, i cannot like your comment anymore :D its standing on 666 :D love it
"Measure once, drill twice"
Glad we watched the same video
Patch 3 times
That's what she said
Story of my life
As someone who passed their A+ certification and is currently studying for their Network+ cert, this eases any tension I had for cabling and how route and make the cables. Thank you.
Although I’m a renter for the foreseeable future, I really really enjoy this type of renovation video presented in your style. I’m sure they’re a hassle to produce, but I hope you make more
As a renter, don't overlook that you can use Gigabit "Powerline Ethernet" adapters (such as those sold by TP-Link). They're great (if you don't mind losing an outlet... they kind of block both outlets due to case design)
@@thisisreallyme3130honestly those things fucking suck. I'd rather run cabling along the walls and stuff inside the house to get ethernet that way
“You can use a fancy little stripper like I have”, “they’re not that expensive”.
Duly noted...
🤩
😂
Actually the Klien Tool crimp tool he was using already has a jacket scoring blade on it.
@@banditolobster pretty much they all have it.
ps otherwise it'd be useless to do its job
@@rawdez_ agreed. I just mentioned it in case someone thought that they needed to get both tools.
A year late, but a note about the rip-string inside the cable (19:00) - You actually WANT to use this to rip the jacket down below where you did the initial stripping to, because even with the fancy stripping tool you showed it is still very easy to nick a single wire to the point where you break the wire or at least weaken it so it breaks at some point in the future. They don't just include this rip-string because they can, the include it because it's practically necessary.
This is a good point, especially if youre going by th echeap and use a knife sizzors etc. or even lesser expensive stripers (who doesn't like cheap strippers anyway?)
However when doing data centers, or larger networking the tools are designed to be exact so that precide cable lengths are cut for wire dressing.
A few comments on this to explain some things better:
pin 1 is green/white
pin 2 is green
pin 3 is orange/white
pin 4 is blue
pin 5 is blue/white
pin 6 is orange
pin 7 is brown/white
pin 8 is brown
This is the T568A or as you said type A config.
The T568B or type B has the following layout
pin 1 is orange/white
pin 2 is orange
pin 3 is green/white
pin 4 is blue
pin 5 is blue/white
pin 6 is green
pin 7 is brown/white
pin 8 is brown
The difference is pin 1 and 2 are switched to pin 3 and 6. This is because it was used to make a cross cable, type A on one end, type B on the other end.
Why? Because this is how the pins are used:
pin 1 is TX+
pin 2 is TX-
pin 3 is RX+
pin 6 is RX-
Today most ethernet equipment is MDIX which means it automatically senses these pairs for transmission or reception, so it doesn't matter whether you use type A or B. On older equipment is does make the difference to connect or not.
So what about pin 4 and 5? These are used for telephone lines. No need to wire your house with extra telephone lines, you could just use this pair for that. In fact you can actually click a RJ11 telephone plug into the RJ45 socket and make it work.
Pin 7 and 8 for POE, power over ethernet, today mainly used for IP cameras. It eleminates the use of extra power cables.
Since these two pairs (4,5 and 7,8) are generally not used, in some rare case they could be used to have a second ethernet connection over the same cable. Not advisable but it is possible. I've use this when I needed to connect my doorbell and ip cam located at the gate away from my house. The tube that lead to the gate only permitted one cable, so this was the solution.
Would the method you mentioned to send two connections on one cable require you to terminate pins 1,2,3,6 on one RJ45 connector and use the remaining four cables to mimic "1,2,3,6" on a second connector on both ends of the cable? Or is it somehow possible to just make two terminations one one end for two devices and somehow configure a switch to send a signal to a customizable set of pairs in the ethernet cableing? Or am I just overcomplicating things in my head lol
@@TromboneSauce Your first assumption is right. One RJ45 has pins 1,2,3,6 as normal, while the second RJ45 has pin 1 on the blue wire, pin 2 on the blue/white wire, pin 3 on the brown/white wire and pin 6 on the brown wire. On the other end of the cable it's exactly the same.
if there is power at gate, one could use switch there. if not, you can actually get poe powered passthrough switch. or hack your own. if you look harder, you find managed 5p switches too. overkill or not, having 2 eth devices there already is anyway. and i actually do use single cat5 two 100m at here a lot because i'm a cheap one. my current managed switch is 100m anyway and i like it managed. besides, you might not need the bw
@@ketas yes a switch could be an option, but, in this case there was no room at the gate and from a security pov it's not a very good idea. I actually hacked the video doorbell and added a small OLED display with an arduino nano integrated into the doorbell case. I barely had room to make all the connections.
And I also went cheap and fast, I'll admit that. :)
10 and 100 megabit use two pairs but 1000 megabit uses all four pairs. So using one cable for two connections will limit each connection to a maximum of 100 megabits. This may be an issue in some use cases. Decades ago I worked in a 40 floor office building where the whole building was wired up with one ethernet cable per desk. By the time all the infrastructure cabling was completed it was realised that many staff required more than one ethernet connection. So hundreds of desks had ethernet splitters to split one cable into two. Essentally splitting two pairs to one cable and two pairs to the other. Then in the communications room there were patch panels that were wired up to act as splitters. So a lan connection would go from the network hub to the splitting patch panel and then from the splitting patch pane to the floor distribution patch panel then out on the floor it went through an inline splitter to then go to the workstation. Very messy, especially for a brand new, whole building re-cabling. In the future this got even worse when the owners decided to squeeze in additional desks and so two separate desks would share a single cable via a splitter. So many faults and so much confusion. Especially with the end users pugging and unplugging connections in an attempt to find a working connection. Splitters were moved to other desks and then reported as faulty when they couldn't get two connections to work on a cable that wasn't configured for splitter. Of course when you arrived to fix the chaos everyone swore that nobody had touched anything. 🤔
11:15. His buddy slinks back into the darkness
I lightly shit my pants after that, lol I'm not big on horror.
Holy shet, i thought was only My screen
Ha ha nice touch with Pennywise.
What's that
Is that ghost 👻🤔
Congrats. That's quite a retrofit. You also saved yourself several thousand by doing it yourself ;)
I just did the same thing to my house. Before I started planning, I called a local company that does this in my rural neck of the woods, and they charge $90 an hour. Save several thousand indeed.
@@JTrizzo8 when we moved to rural Oregon we’d not got a lot of time for DIY projects because of a simultaneous family crisis. We had to spend $2,000 on a flood wire for a 2,000 square foot home. That was for 26 patch bays....
...which he then made additionally from views. So not a bad result!
-x
He also saved the lath and plaster from being ripped out and destroyed by monsters
The color sequence when terminating a cable does matter - the pairs are matched to help cancel out cross talk, especially at higher speeds.
Under short runs this doesn’t really matter, but the longer your run the more likely you are to have high losses or not even get a link if you choose your own order.
Given its color coded on the keystones and tools you might as well use one of the TIA standards - lots of smart people argued for weeks to come up with them 🤣
YES! The twisted pairs must carry the same signal with different polarities.
Drove me nuts when he said that.... There's also different rate of twist. I cannot count the number of problematic LAN paths I have troubleshot that just turned out to be using wrong pairs. This matters more the higher run distance. Also, I I were going through all of this work, I'd run 6a. It much more future proof. Last, use plenum or riser grade cabling. This minimizes the potential for this being a source or poisonous gas should you ever have a home fire.
I’ve worked for a few different Internet companies now that do this kinda of stuff and let me tell you, it’s definitely a nice thing to know how to do. This guy knows his stuff🤛🏼
About Ethernet categories: my house was fully wired with CAT5e. I needed 10Gb speeds so I was ready to re-wire the whole thing with CAT6. Although, after extensive tests I discovered that CAT5e can carry 10Gb speeds just fine within the distances of a normal sized house. So, if you have CAT5e installed, give it a try before replacing it with CAT6, it may just work.
Nice! I've heard this before, but I wonder, how do you get your equipment to play along with that? If you plug a short enough CAT5e cable into two 10gbps ports on either end, is that enough?
@@kusucks991 The main difference between Cat 6 and Cat 5 is the bandwidth. Cat 6 cables are made with materials, shiledings and overall quality to sustain higher amount of data. That being said CAT 6 and CAT 5 provide the same exact connection on both ends. So, within short distances, they are interchangeable. If you plug in a CAT 5 cable between two 10Gb devices, they will attempt a 10Gb connection regardless of the cable quality. If the cable can’t keep up, you will see loss of packets and errors. In my case the “short distance” was at least 50 feet! My office is downstairs, the server is upstairs. During my tests I pulled a flying temp CAT 6 cable through the stairs and compared that connection with the CAT5e in the wall. No difference. I assumed they used good quality CAT5e cables when they built my house! Long story short, if you have CAT 5 cables handy, I think it is worth it to test them before buying CAT 6, but if you need to install a 10Gb from scratch, absolutely get the best cable you can afford.
A couple of years later, but I'm glad to see this comment. Yesterday I started researching upgrading my home to Ethernet instead of just wifi and found there's cat 5e wiring throughout the house. Thought I would have to re-run cat 6, but glad to see cat 5e will be sufficient enough
This was great! You need a part 2 to explain all the choices like PoE or networking diagram format and actual network boxes in walls. That would be amazing. Still the best vid so far.
I can't stand using flex bits lol. I started a job last year and have learned how to do all of this slowly and it's crazy how much I've learned and how much I still have yet to learn about networking and control systems. Crazy stuff. Awesome video!
Glad to see you mentioned that stapler. A few years ago, I had a job where someone had stapled the cable down, with wire staples, including right into and around corners, so there were right angle bends in the cable. I had to remove that and do the job properly.
Well done, almost giving me the course to undertake this project in 2023. If I may ask, are you able to share what the total cost was of the project? Are you able to share what you’d do differently a year after posting? Any new tech you wish you would have used? My 3,100 sq ft. home needs this and thanks in advance for giving me the courage to consider doing this. I’d love an update if there is one. Thanks!
Having done a fraction of what is shown in the video, one thing I would suggest (which is kind of a no-brainer), is there are newer Unify APs available. I went with the U6 Long-Range. The single AP on the ground floor gives acceptable coverage for me even on the third floor. Probably Quinn could get away with fewer APs if he did it again!
I would +1 the message in the video. Take the leap. It is not terribly difficult, or even terribly expensive for most home improvement projects, just time consuming. Take your time, measure twice to get the holes in the right place, and start small. Do one run, see how it goes, and keep chipping at it until you've executed your dream plan!
One thing I already know I would have done differently, is I should have considered buying the right-size auger bit by doing a little planning and calculating the diameter of wire to run through each chase. My only option is in-wall runs, and it's pretty damn difficult to get the string through the hole the first time, so I would minimize the number of holes!
And make sure to get your new box on the same height as any existing boxes in the room. I mis-measured, and my new Ethernet is a solid half inch above the nearby outlet. It looks pretty amateurish!
11:09 i see some eyes in the Basement creapy lol
Grate vid congrats on your home
Ah, American houses. So much easier to do these things.
But aren‘t they than not well isolated and save? Texas last month?
ikr 😭
American houses in the north. (They have basements and real crawlspaces)
@@MaxxPlay99 completely unrelated. also, texas doesnt get all that cold, so that level of cold snap was unexpected. also the prep northern people do in winter simply isnt needed down south most years, and the energy industry thought the same thing. they found out they were wrong the hard way, and thats all there is to it
@@bradhaines3142 Ok thx for the clarification.
I recently rewired my apartment. Totally worth it. A single, straight run for everything and using a single managed switch to check the connections (and do monitoring; the phone would alert me if anything drops to 100mb/s, or go silent) is amazing. I do not have and old house now, but maybe I will and will give crap load of bandwitch to it. This is really informative, thank You. I usually test my cables using and old router and laptop without fancy tools and wigle it to check if the line is solid.
I am currently vibing at Texas Roadhouse
Hey I know you...
texas roadhouse is a whole vibe, you should try the little slider burgers they may seem small but fill you pretty good and if that isn't enough get fries but load them up with cheese and bacon bits it may be a large mass of cheesy bacony fries but it will finish filling you up also it will save you like 6$ just saying...
Can I just say that I love and appreciate how detailed your videos are when it comes to these things. I am in a small apartment so I won't be doing any of this, but I did get some ideas from your HomeKit video which was also extremely and educational to watch. So thank you for all the hard work!
As a german, the fiber box and cable runs on the outside of the house seem so wrong to me
Same to me, we don't really see that here as we generally bury them, although Fiber is quite durable compared to copper (we don't really have much fiber), you can even string it on a power pole if you have to.
I, an American, am looking at that sideways. Seems like the spy movie scenes where they cut the video feed out by snipping a wire outside. Why??? lol
Amerikaner halt
Yeah, unfortunately cost rules all in North America. It's much cheaper for them to just strap it to the outside wall. They do bury the fibre feeding the home usually. It drives me insane, unless of course the installer has some pride in their work and they do the best they can to hide it. I work in telecoms and I run my lines as if it was my own home. As hidden as I can do it and as straight as possible! Having OCD really helps with this lol
Kennt jemand ein ähnliches Video bei dem das für ein deutsches Haus gemacht wird? Überlege auch mein Haus mit LAN auszustatten, aber ich glaube ein amerikanisches Video hilft da nicht viel
Now for a real comment. Its nice to see old buildings restored instead of tearing them down. I miss our farm and house. Mom walked in and told her sister lets get out of here, but Dad wanted to see the place. He had a stroke the year before. So mom took him to see the farm. Dad said I want this place. So after the following summer all the relatives said you buying this farm was the best therapy you could purchase. Dad looked better and felt better. Hard work is the best thing for recovery. In 1976 early 1977 we sold the farm. We had 2 other properties we had to sell before moving to Florida. Kinda hard going from a 50 acre farm to just a house and quarter acre. Dad always found something to do. My oldest sister and her lake front property kept him busy. 73
Well done - that’s quite a feat. Also, I absolutely love your home’s crown molding and wainscoting (especially around the doors!) Thats one of the best charms about an old home
Not sure if anyone else noticed this but when you're down in your crawlspace right about 11:10 into the video there are very creepy what seems to be glowing eyes in the back that fade away into the dark, maybe nothing but was kinda creepy. 😱
It was the Pennywise he was talking about. Fantastic “Easter egg” he added in
It was edited in he was talking about it as a joke
I've seen the same thing, maybe edited, maybe not, but it's really creepy 🥹
129 years? *laughs in British where my parents’ house is older than the Declaration of Independence*
You guys have a house???
Ok
@Frank Silvers The yanks are mad
and for that matter older than the US. I do marvel at the fact that if I were to go to England, I'd be standing on soil that has been colonized for way longer than the US.
@Josh Manders Enjoy going bankrupt from getting a cold
Very informative and quirky. Being a network techie myself, it's a breath of fresh air to relax and watch stuff like this with comical value... I also never thought about using the shielding to untwist pairs my years of work. learn something new every day lol.
I genuinely enjoyed this video. I like your sense of humor and the tips for running cable.
However, as far as I can tell, this is just a gigabit network, not 10G. While your cable runs can certainly _support_ 10G, the UDM Pro only has a gigabit switch built-in. It's possible you have a 10G switch connected to the UDM via its 10G SFP+ ports that wasn't shown, but I wish that information was shared. I was hoping for how best to set up a 10G network beyond the type of cable to choose.
Anyway, still a great video. Thanks.
His point was to touch on the importance of future proof the part that requires a lot of work and upgrade costs are minimal. Buying a 10Gb/s switch is overkill, expensive, and by the time 10Gb/s becomes relevant in most homes, switches will be better.
"Regardless of wall type, is going to be identifying your studs"
**Laughs in European**
haha true
*laughs in literally anywhere that isn’t the United States*
@Frank Silvers not a nationality but certainly an *identity*
Plenty of European countries use stick framing.
eh, my walls are solid brick ?
19:15 - AWESOME PRO TIP! ... 22:23 - 66 (not 99) and 110 are the punch-down block standards
Yeah I thought that was weird... never heard it referred to 99 but maybe he saw it upside down for the first time? 😅
Only thing id add is making sure your drill settings are set to drill mode and no hammer. Thanks man! this tool was way easier than drilling from the crawlspace and guessing.
Important: If you're crimping and terminating your own cables, you need VERY VERY short amounts of untwisted wires. Gotta keep it tight and compact, or you lose all the advantage of that CAT6 (6a, 7, etc) cable you just paid extra for.
I actually prefer to use premade cables when at all possible. Cable cost increase for your average home is negligible, and the amount of time needed to faff about crimping cables is just not worth the extra few dollars. Then you can use Keystone couplers instead of keystone jacks, both in the wallplates and the patch panel, and everything is suddenly SUPER modular.
Was looking for this, untwisting your pairs introduces crosstalk and interference that essentially sends you back to cat 5 specs. Cat 6 needs to remain twisted to the point of termination.
„Inner walls usually don’t have insulation“
Laughs in German
@@davidkorcak there's a video by Cheddar that talks about why are American homes built so cheaply.
I think CNBC has one too on the subject.
I live in Germany and my house was also built before 1900 and although I'm pretty sure it will stand strongly for the next 150 years to come. But due to the thickness of the walls DIY-ing your networking becomes a little harder when you have to use 50cm+ stone drill bits that have to be able to drill through the double-layered brick walls.
@@svw1999 same here - but honestly: with a proper long drill bit (LIDL has some every couple of months) you will even do holes through concrete ceilings just fine.
@@svw1999 double brick is at least drillable. My House had 3 or 4 expansions done by my grandfather pre and post WW2. We have everything from Cobblestone over solid brick to hollow cinderbrick in here.
Have you ever looked at Home Assistant as an alternative to Homekit? Insanely powerful
This is probably the best overall home ethernet cabling video on RUclips. Love it! 🎉❤
"CAT6 in my opinion is pretty underrated"
Me with a 900ft box of CAT6 in the closet: "Go on..."
Cat 6 is only 1 gb . Why woud you us cat 6 over cat 5e
@@xythiera7255 9:40
@@xythiera7255 Cat6 supports 10Gb up to 55 meters...
shoutout to my teacher who turned a blind eye and let us make our own cat6 cables on our last week of school to take home lmao
same
Will you be making a video on your ubiquity setup and security system ? Looking into that right now , would LOVE to see your perspective and pointers on it before I jump in on anything!
Please!! Looking to pull the ubiquity trigger soon! Lol
The 'Uh-oh, I'm a stud' made me chuckle quite a bit :)
It's standard to check yourself everytime you use a stud finder.
The ultimate sleeper house
2020: When almost every 90s kid Techtuber went ahead and bearded up.
and here I am sitting in a room surrounded by concrete wall and figured how to neatly run a cable to this room
I bet wifi and Bluetooth work great in that concrete home
Little trick i learnt, if you push a mini screwdriver between the 2 wires of a pair and pull up to untwist them, it straightens the wires perfectly, making it far easier to push them in to a RJ45 plug. Also passthrough RJ45 plugs are a godsend!
I love how this house is considered old in america yet here in england that would be a farily new house lol
Maybe because Hamerica came to existence "just" recently... Just guessing.
I mean to be fair that house is about half the age of the US
3/4 of dwellings in the UK were built after WWII. This is still older than most British homes
Building standards aren’t the same. Most of our homes are made essentially of paper. Lol
@@markcorneliuslau allot of houses were bombed ww2
Did you talk about TESTING THE CABLES BEFORE YOU RUN THEM. I don't remember hearing that in the video.
I love the Pennywise easter egg 😂😂 So good!!!!
Great watching someone else try any network a 100 year old home. Been trying to do the same and it’s a huge balance between what’s easy and what’s best. Thanks!
I don’t think a 25 year old house is any more prepared to a 10gigabit Ethernet than a 129 year old house 😄.
My plaster disagrees.
@@snazzy My parents 50 year old house is made of solid concrete (and bricks for the outside) without any cable ducts whatsoever. We literally have to chisel a path along the wall, drill a hole up to the attic (which is just hell of glas wool insulation, a few movable planks to rob from beam to beam and nice asbestos tiles above), run the cable to whichever room needs it and then either chisel there again or live with a cable dangling from the roof. After that the damaged wall needs to be closed again with fresh plaster, primed (not sure if that's the right translation. We use "Tiefengrund") and the segment of the wallpaper gets replaced.
my brand new house they just built in 2020 isn't wired with ethernet I even tried to pay more for them to do it but my basement is unfinished witch means I can still wire easily!
@@aaronjohnson2547 👍 yea. That’s exactly my point.
@@maxroman2010 oh I know that's why I commented. Ethernet should be standard in all new homes but even in 2020 it's just not. They all expect you to use wireless and look at you like a deer caught in headlights when you say I don't want to use wireless.
this video, the european house version: “do the wiring before finishing the walls, otherwise pass them in an out of the wall conduit, the end”
Ha, if only! 😀 In my experience it's "do the wiring before finishing the walls... and the floors... and the ceilings... otherwise, lift floorboards, chase out masonry walls, drill holes through joists, run the cables, and then redo the walls, floors, ceilings etc.".
Conduits are great if they exist, but in my experience conduits are only installed where they need to be, which means they are already full of single-insulated power cables... I know things differ between countries but I'd be surprised if any European wiring standards allow you to run network cables in the same conduit as single-insulated cables.
@@donkmeister oh no i wasn’t talking about like the power conduits, i was talking about if someone had installed sometime ago a tv signal or telephone conduit or something like that
Yea i find that strang as well why did nobody install extra conduits when this house were build.
@@xythiera7255 maybe because people don’t tend to think a lot about the future, 20 years ago a TV conduit was everything you needed, maybe add a phone line in there too if you want access to “the internet”, nowadays we are thinking “ethernet is what we need”, probably in some years we will need another different cable around the house but who knows, probably in that time we’ll be able to have done at least one major renovation in our houses i guess?
@@xythiera7255 Simple answer: It costs more and people that are building a house have to spend their money were it really matters, since the budget is usually fixed. So who cared in e.g. the 70s about being able to later route ethernet through their house? They only needed enough power in each room, a Telephone and their analog TV antenna.
"Go celebrate at Texas Road House, you lucky son of a b-" Century-old farm house here. I feel ya...
What you mean 129ys is a super new house ?. How old is a Century old farm house. Pluse he has no realy isolation to worry about just replacing old cabels with new ones.
Being a low voltage/ telecommunication technician, love how you explain how it all works! granted never done in home wiring n shit, but love it man!!
Ah, only possible in America where the houses are made of biscuits 😉
lol biscuits
Exactly 🤣
Also only possible in America where houses are affordable... **cries in Canadian :'(**
129 year old house.
me in the UK: that's not very old lol
@@Prashanth12344 There might be a causal relationship between those properties
Connect the wires of the Ethernet cable in the standard order so the next person to work with it (you, only a few short months from now, perhaps) won’t have more trouble than necessary.
Welcome to "This Old House: Millennial Edition"
I also went with a CAT6e network cables for my house. Every TV room has 2 RJ45 ports in the wall below the TVs with either a 5 to 8 port Netgear switch. Like you I also went with a unifi udm pro & unifi 24 port poe switch for my indoor and outdoor network cameras. 2 wifi access points. I did this back in Oct of 2020. Probably the best investment I ever made.
OMG THIS GUY HAS PENNYWISE IN HIS BASEMENT
I know. I was wondering if anyone noticed. I guess you did
Are you talking about the creepy eyes that appear in the background around 11:15 mark? Lord I about came out of the bed lol
That is terrifying!
@@TheDthom97 Well, that's better than doing it in the bed.... I suppose.
@@TheDthom97 yes
“Quinn moves with the exaggerated swagger of a married tech nerd”- IGN
19:35 The order absolutely DOES matter, exactly because the twists in the pairs of cable are important. Different pins carry different frequencies, and the twists help reject interference at those frequencies. The only pairs you can interchange are Orange and Green, because that's the only difference between the two major wiring standards. (And if you swap them on one end of a cable, you make a crossover cable that lets two devices talk without a switch or hub.) There's a reason even 10/100 Ethernet runs like hot garbage on 8-conductor satin cord (old phone system and serial stuff with no twists at all), and why Cat5 doesn't carry gigabit reliably (but 5e and 6 do). The rest of your advice is solid, but going with a set standard is a point to drive home, not brush off as a nice-to-do.
Always make patch cables like this:
WO, O, WG, B, WB, G, WB, B
or like this:
WG, G, WO, B, WB, O, WB, B
You also want to make sure you aren't running your network cables in parallel and close proximity with AC line voltage wiring. That's an open invitation for signal noise and poor network performance.
The big difference between Riser and Plenum is that Plenum doesn't give off toxic fumes when it burns. Technically if you run network cabling in a basement that's also living space, it should be plenum. Check your local building codes. Residential low-voltage is kind of a wild west as far as code enforcement goes, so you're probably fine with Riser in most cases.
I just love old houses, love that antique feel, and the feel of leaving a footprint in the home of modern tech, like who knew 129 years ago that someone in the far future would be installing a ethernet port to use om a computer to access an enourmous level of information, data, gaming, moving images.
Thena few years later upgrading that access to a hyper speed one.
Im a 129 year old house
129 years old, sniffs judgingly in British. lmao love ur videos
@Frank Silvers Calm down Frank said that a few times already on other comments. It’s not an international getting offended contest
“Uh oh I’m a stud” HAHAHA
“That computer is older than me” < “That wiring is older than my entire audience”
This is one of the best videos to watch for home networking. I live in the UK and had my house wired up. Unfortunately my electrician didn’t know what he was doing and I had to redo a lot of the terminations myself. This video was super helpful.
I want to make one correction to the video. Always follow t568b for cat6 and above. Whilst he is correct that for the cable to work the order of the the wires need to be the same order on both ends, the exact standard also matters. Not following standard B (t568b) for data will limit you to 10/100mbps speeds because of cross talk in the cable. Standard b eliminates this issue. I have personally tested this.
Also for a cheaper alternative to ubiquiti for in wall access points, consider TP omada (just make sure you order the correct version for your needs).
It sounds like you had 1-2 pairs not terminated properly to get those speeds. Cross talk on anything cat5e wouldnt get that severe unless the loop was longer then recommended specs.
Cat6 specifically separates the twisted pairs to reduce cross talk overall which is how its able to get higher speeds on longer loops than cat5e.
The only way you would get 10-100mbps speeds over that would be loop length or improper termination (or even a damaged cable). Not T568a vs T568b.
Sincerely a telco tech :).