My biggest tip with this is to double check you are in the right spot before drilling holes everywhere. Also, it might be way too hot to go up in the attic now, make a plan to do it this fall.
Any idea how to make my tpljnk access points faster there WiFi 6 and it was an extender but in access point mode now. Also how can I make my gigabit Internet faster on ethernet I got a cat 7 ran to outdoor conveted like in the garage in the mesh WiFi video
I really hope you used Solid copper not the CCA 'Copper Clad Aluminium' garbage.. Also real world testing has shown that cat5e can handle 10 gig connections someone got 8.5Gb/s with cat5e EDIT: also those rj45 ends need to be re done on the switch.. the outside jacket shouldn't be that far back. You want the RG-45 tip to be locking the jacket in the tip.
To pinpoint where to drill in attic.... Drill a tiny hole in the ceiling, directly front of the wall where your cables are going to drop down and stick a wire hanger up through this hole into the attic. Up in the attic, locate the hanger (have someone move it around if not easily seen) and then drill into the wood joist/doubleplate directly behind the hanger. Fill tiny hole in ceiling with spackle or toothpaste. Works every time, no measuring needed.
A few points: 1) When taping the cable to the coax, stagger the cables, so you don't have one big bump to catch on things as you pull the cable in. 2) For proper installation, always terminate solid cable on jacks and then use a patch cord. While there are plugs for solid wire, those came about only because people insisted on doing things the wrong way. Yes, that means a patch panel at the switch end. 3) Another useful tool is a length of "dog chain", which can be dropped down inside walls, etc.. 4) You installed the jack in the wall upside down. The wires are supposed to be at the top, with the latch at the bottom. This keeps dust from collecting on the contacts. I would also mount the switch connectors down, for the same reason. 5) Do not use solid wire for patch cords. It's not meant for that purpose and movement of the cable may cause metal fatigue in the wires, which will cause a break. In fact, these days, I don't even bother making patch cords, as buying them costs a lot less than my time. 6) It's hard to tell, but it appears you didn't push the cable far enough into the connector. When you crimp the connector, a piece of the plastic is supposed to clamp the outer insulation. BTW, on my 500/20 cable modem connection, I typically get around 935/31, according to speedtest. I've seen as high as 948 down. My LAN is 1 Gb, so there's not much room for improvement.
Thanks so much for all the tips! The upside down plate was just me being in a hurry and noticed it later. The Switch worked the best for me that way but I understand the need of going the other way, I just find it odd TP-Link doesn't have holes to mount it that way.
I am just going to address a few things in this comment, as there is some misinformation. 1.) Sure, but it clearly worked, and it is only 2 lines. He isn't pulling a 12 line bundle. 2.) Patch panels are not necessary in this type of environment. They are useful in many ways, but for in-home use, re-terminating a broken line is not the end of the world. 3.) Fish tape or rods are a much better option due to rigidity. Use in conjunction with poly pull line for any needed flexibility. 4.) Keystone was installed "correctly" as the text should be right-side up, and the clip down. However, even when installed inverted, there are no adverse effects with the cover installed. 5.) I agree, solid core for patch cables is not the best option due to possible mechanical fatigue, but still viable in a home environment. 6.) Yes, the insulation should be pushed in as far as possible. 7.) Absolutely, but there is no evidence he didn't. Secondly, the box for the electrical outlet is most likely attached to a stud so as long as he has it 1.5 inches away, safe bet in modern construction. Source: It is literally my job. My only advise, and again you may have done this, is to leave a service loop, which is just a loop of extra cable, near each termination in the event you need to re-terminate in the future. Thank you for the video!
@@w0nd3rb0y 1) It worked in this case; the point of the comment was that, in general, it's a good idea to stagger the wires since you don't know what it might run into when fishing the line. 2) Patch panels aren't "necessary," but they're neater, they make organization and labeling easier, and they look more professional, which will be a sticking point when it comes time to sell the house. Nobody wants a mess of random wires hanging from holes in the ceiling. If it's literally your job and I'm paying you to run ethernet through my house, then you damn well better be installing a patch panel. 4) He filmed two different jacks for this video. One has the power outlet to the left, and is installed upside-down. The other doesn't and wasn't. If I were looking to buy a house that had upside-down keystones (or even worse, inconsistent from one jack to another), I'd assume all the other work done to it was half-assed as well. Also, the cover is not covering the wires inside the jack, so it appears you missed the point of the comment you're responding to.
@@rars0n You missed the point of my response. None of his bullet points matter in a simple home network. There are no wires inside the jack. I assume you are referring to the contacts. If someone is going to speak as an "expert", the terminology is important. Dust will not collect on the contacts inside the jack, upside down or not. For reference, many switches have alternating ports. They are designed to be installed horizontally. I don't find dust in the ports with the contacts on the bottom. It is not a concern.
When crimping an rj45 plug please push your cable in as far as you can so it also grips on the outer sleeve, the way you did yours they will eventually break.
May* eventually break. If there is no movement, they will suffice. Additionally, if we are giving advise, please use correct terminology. It is jacket, not sleeve.
@@giancarlotorres6795 Looks like he measured it with a tape measure from the end of the wall to the spot he wanted the jack. He then went into the attic and used the tape measure again to find the spot to drill.
When running the cable be sure not to lay it next to power wires. It can and will pick up static from the current causing errors. Be sure to shove the wire sleeve up into the RJ45 giving the plug more support before crimping it down.
Tip when stripping the cable the String is in there for a reason to help strip the jacket back, Its best practice to strip using the tool and then use the string to strip the jacket back further and use that fresh pulled back wire for termination. When using a stripper its possible to nick the wires and have them break when terminating or even worse in a few months time with movement and temp expansion cause intermittent problems.
I have done a lot of network installs and I think it would be a good idea to re-crimp those RJ 45 ends and push the jackets way further inside so that it crimps properly.
That is a good idea, I realized I should have pushed them all the way in through the pass-thru end to have a better end. I actually did some others today like that and they look great. Thanks for the tip!
I'd highly recommend finding yourself a set of RJ45 plugs with a load bar too. They make things much easier and it results in the exposed conductor length being as minimal as possible.
If you have an oscillating tool you can get a special saw attachment that cleanly cuts a perfect rectangular hole in dry wall. Although for some reason it works better with some oscillating tools than others.
Good job on fishing down the cable to the bedroom on the first try. From my experience, some newer homes have a fire block between the studs. Reference point locators are great tools but you nailed it!
something a lot of people neglect in rentals is simply going outside, so if you can go under the eaves or under the house and through an existing hole, go for it, if your renting think about what the easiest method will be to repair when you leave and keep it out of sight from anyone. That way when you leave its not a drama.
A bit difficult to see but it looked like the plug didn’t crimp on to the outer sleeve. Tends to put strain on the connections into the signal wires. Also there are 2 types of cables, stranded and solid core. Stranded is for use from a socket to a device as it can flex easier, but it has a higher attenuation so shouldn’t be used for more that 10 meters. Solid core is the stuff you do between socket and patch panel. Better attenuation but not designed to be flexed. The maximum distance you can run that is 90meters. This gives you the maximum 100 meter rating. If you flex solid core it starts to crack the conductors and it eventually fails. If you punch down in sockets and patch panels then they have a guarantee of 20+ years, so it’s a fit and forget. Patch leads are throw away items. Remember the specs are usually built with some over engineering and are, if followed, able to guarantee it will work to spec so when you put your cable certifier on the line it passes all the tests. Then the installer gives the 20 year guarantee backed up by the cable manufacturer. I’ve done 10’s of thousands of cables and only ever seen one fail cert tests for anything other than miss wiring. Don’t sweat the advice here though, let’s face it your not going to be moving the switch connections about much so it’s not likely to have a problem that end and the other end is a socket. The patch cable breaking will just be a case of throwing it away and terminating another. Good on ya for jumping in and getting it done.
I know this is old but for others that just ran across this tutorial like I have this is an excellent guide in WHAT NOT TO DO! Data cable should be kept away from electrical wires as much as possible. The cable in the attic and wall cavity should be stapled. Twists in the cable pairs should be maintained as close as possible to the terminations in the keystone The outer jacket of the cable needs to be well past the strain relief. The cables coming into the room with all the network gear should be on a patch panel. Don’t make your own station cables buy pre-terminated ones. If you insist on making your own use stranded wire rather than solid core. I know the heads on many pass-thru brands say they work with solid core but they have a high failure rate. CAT6 will run 10GB at 55 meters. You’ll probably connect at greater lengths but will likely have hire loss rates. 2.5 GB is possible at 100 meters.
A good tip a to find exactly where to drill is to take a thumb take and poke a tony hole in the ceiling. Take a small piece of RG-6 cable and strip the cable down to the copper clad center conductor. Once you strip the cable down, take 6-8" of the center conductor and push it in the hole. Make a mental note of about where the room is in the attic, brush your hands around the insulation and you will be right near where you drill down the header.
ALWAYS spray foam the penetrations (above and below the living space.) That's the only way to effectively keep your conditioned air in the conditioned space. As to the RJ45 crimping, push the jacket (blue in this case) far enough into the RJ to allow the crimp to contact the jacket.
Mistake 1- u attached coax to Ethernet cables -- attract a pull string or 2 for future… If no coax pull I have before have pushed up from 1st floor pvc pipe to drop the cables thru…. PVC 1 inch or 3/4 or 1/2 pipe 10 ft stock length easily to get into the 8 foot tall 1st floor and the stiffness punches thru any obstacles in its way after cables and string pushed down pipe. Then you pull pipe out from the first floor
As an RCDD for 30 nearly years. I recommend buying your station cables rather than using the Cat-6 solid conductor cable which is used for your horizontal path cable.
@@PatrickSmith87 Station cables are meant to be flexible and the pins of an RJ-45 plug are meant to pierce the jacket and make contact with stranded conductors. These systems are meant to work in this manner because the actual transmission of the signal works best to this matched ecosystem. Solid conductor cable is meant to be typically stationary after installation and station cables and patch cords are meant to be moved, or twisted and bend in more flexible manners. The next best reason is making your own station cables is costly and time consuming. 0.5 to 5 meter standard station cables can be bought very inexpensively, and these cable are usually quality tested and come with 25 year warranties as part of a structured cabling system.
Just my two cents: the information printed on the cable not only tells you it is Cat 6, it also has the foot measurement of the cable. I believe it's in two foot increments. No need to guess how long the cable is or when to cut, just look at the cable and it will let you know how many feet you have pulled.
May I know the name of the software or app you used to create this animated portion of the video to show the wire path (Starting at Timestamp 1:49)? Thanks!!!
This is a combination of two programs. First, I designed my home use SketchUp. It is a 3D design app and I put different parts of the home on layers and just took screen captures I imported into my editing program. Then for the blue line, I created that using a line animation in Adobe Premiere Pro. It took a bit of work to get right, but it did the job.
Anytime I have an ethernet hole mounted in the dust catching orientation like your switch is I always buy some of those little rubber ethernet plugs for the unpopulated ethernet ports
So choosing between doing a keystone jack vs doing a port? Why not just do that receptacle as a brush pass through? Doesn’t the extra connection in the middle cause data loss?
I would say because the Keystone is a better finished look. The brush pass through is mainly used for areas like a TV where you want to change cables often. My kids would also shove stuff into the pass through if it was visible.
It is a TP Link 16 port switch. I have the Fiber Modem, plugged into the Router that is plugged into the switch. More details here: ruclips.net/video/wQQt9Qv6xDY/видео.html
My room is directly above the router and the rest up the wiring, surely this should be easy by just drilling and dropping cable down through wall right?
sure, but depends how neat you want it to look. Even if you run a plastic channel down the wall it won't look as neat and clean as if you run it through the wall. Also he chose an inside wall because then you don't generally have to worry about dealing with wall insulation which will make it potentially more difficult to fish the wire down through the wall cavity (particularly if you have closed cell insulation in the wall or dense pack insulation.
So I wouldn't use that riser cable for making a patch cord, it is solid core and more prone to breakage. Patch cables are also cheap. When you were crimping that RJ45 plug on the cable you also did not insert the jacket far enough for the jack to grab onto it.
In my opinion, going through the attic is always the best option as it is easy to hide away all the cables, and easy to drill into walls and drop the cables down inside the walls
7:15 *_do not use sprayfoam insulation if the hole is too big_* , you will hate yourself later on. Just use some tape if you are worried about the cords wiggling or stuff some excess loose insulation in the hole.
Pretty good with the basics. Only thing I might add is you really shouldn’t use solid core riser cable from the wall to the computer. Every time you move it your risking bending and breaking it. Stranded cabling is better. Also I would have put stain relief boots on the cable.
Everyone else has critqued this but I'm curious about one thing. Why do you have the switch mounted with the ports facing up (or was that just a trick of the camera)? I would think you would want them facing down, so dirt and other debris doesn't get into them.
I have a question how do you use your old smart phone as Google assistant like the Google nest hub but it's on your phone and the display will be the same with Google nest hub
This video was incredible. Literally everything I could ever ask for and know about. You're a legend. Can't wait to get started on this project (on a cooler Florida day, of course)!
Bro I been wanting to wire this house with ethernet forever now. The only ports in the rooms are phone line jacks. I'm just worried Cat 6 won't be enough for long distances so I might have to go Linus Tech Tips style. I'm this close to just hiring an electrician. Also I've never been in my attic before.
It certainly is quite the undertaking! If you have plenty of room in your attic it makes it pretty easy to move around. Maybe in the fall take a look up there and if possible.
Great video!! Quick question. Since you plugged the router into the TP-Link switch; does that mean all those devices in the switch will be throttled based on the speed of that Ethernet port on the router? So if you have two PCs connected to the same switch both of them won’t get 1Gbps right?
The Switch is actually designed to distribute the bandwidth across all devices that are plugged in. If you did have 2 PCs connected they will show that they are getting a similar speed.
Speed tests are not always accurate, and conditions between tests also may be different. Try to run a speed test yourself right now, 5 minutes apart, and you may notice they are not identical.
Noise Reducing Cross Separator .. it depends on the vendor that manufactures the bulk cable.. for home use, its perfectly fine without it... for businesses that's where you want. VoIP phones, printers, computers and other wired connections want to reduce crosstalk and any interference on the data lines
Thank you so much for putting this video together. Running additional ethernet cables has been on my bucket list for awhile. This video really helped me understand what all is involved and the tools required. If it is not practical or possible to run an ethernet cable to a particular room, would you recommend using a power line ethernet adapter?
Tech with Brett I have ea problem smth happened to my email so I woke up and it said my account would be deleted in 29 days I'm trying to save the stuff by it gets deleted but idk what to do exactly please help
hi i am in a new built home with network points in diffrent rooms ,but i dont see any patch pannel in my home anyone have any idea .there is no basment is it possible in the attic thanks .
Seems like CAT6 is the go-to-way in the US these days. In Germany you can hardly find any CAT6 cables. The standard here is CAT7, these days often CAT7A, some people even use CAT8.2 (but I doubt the latter one makes any sense as 10GBase-T already consumes multiple times the power a 1GBase-T connection does, I guess 40GBase-T would run extremely hot and be even more power hungry) I guess anything above CAT7 does not really make sense, for anything faster than 2.5 Gigabit at home I'd rather use Fiber, preferably multimode. Consumes a lot less power and can even do 25, 40 or 100 Gbit/s.
Brett, great video with good pacing, just enough detail, very well done. I ran most of the cabling for a new home so was able to do so before the drywall was on so that was super nice! I bought a patch panel to really do it "right", but as it is coming down to it, I may just terminate those into the switch....
If you already have the patch panel, use it. Otherwise, you'll be fine. Just leave a bit of extra cable in a loop in the even you need to re-terminate in the future.
They are a bit challenging. Once I have the pairs unwound, and then smoothed out the end I make a clean cut so they are all lined up. Then I slowly thread it in and just wiggle a little bit to get it to go through and keep them aligned.
The way to do that is with media converters. These convert twisted pair Ethernet to coax and can also provide power over Ethernet. The ones I've worked with do 100 Mb and were intended to be used when converting analog security video to digital.
Nice sometime next year were gonna get our electrician to install networking into our house and ethernet jacks. Since ATT Fiber might be coming to our area in a year or 2 and for when we have wifi issues. :)
I do it the old fashion way of producing the patch cables, without a passthrough rj-45. I'm jealous. But at least I have 8 network ports through conduit in my office connected to one of my two 24 port gigabit switches.
Oof! If you’re going to make a “how to” video, it’s likely a good idea to show people how to do it right. - CAT6 only good for 10G up to 55meters or less - One shouldn’t eyeball the wall plate and at least use a level - Don’t untwist the pairs before placing in the keystone, only untwist as much as necessary - make sure the crimps catch the jacket, not just the wires. Your response that it’s “good enough for now” may be okay for you, but you’re making video content to inform, no?
Off topic but safety minded - if your smoke alarms are that yellowed or brown, it’s time to change them out. They expire after 10 years, even if you put a new battery in them. Check the date on those and switch them out asap.
Awesome video! I recently got a Firewalla to use as my edge router. Was able to get a lot better network speeds rather than using my WiFi router as my main router. Might help you out to get a different router instead of using the Google router.
While outdoor ethernet cable is available, I would never use it as copper on the outside of the house is susceptible to lighting strikes and can not just fry your network but all devices that are hard wired to it.
Any idea how to make my tpljnk access points faster there WiFi 6 and it was an extender but in access point mode now. Also how can I make my gigabit Internet faster on ethernet I got a cat 7 ran to outdoor conveted like in the garage in the mesh WiFi video
@@TechWithBrett There is a huge differrence between cables... cat6 and cat6a etc etc. Its vital to do proper research when it comes to these types of cables... not to mention hdmi and displayport cables... its easy to buy inferior cables, that doesnt even support f.ex 4k 120 hz.. if you just assume things.
@@James_Knott Even if you got fiber, that cable only goes as far as into your router... from there you need regular cables to your tv, pc etc... and you dont want to use your old cat6 or cat6a cables... ditch them all and get cat7a or higher.
I’m not familiar with building code in America. What in the world is up this horrible loose insulation all over your attic? Is that common? Seems like a total nightmare to deal with.
That is called blow-in insulation and it is very common. Much cheaper than anything else that is available. It does cause some problems since I stepped on a light while I was up there.
Yep, in Australia we can't do any behind the wall wiring, even low voltage, for safety/legal reasons. I had an electrician run all my ethernet cables through my roof space and walls. The plus side, their cable management makes it look a lot neater.
My biggest tip with this is to double check you are in the right spot before drilling holes everywhere. Also, it might be way too hot to go up in the attic now, make a plan to do it this fall.
Any idea how to make my tpljnk access points faster there WiFi 6 and it was an extender but in access point mode now. Also how can I make my gigabit Internet faster on ethernet I got a cat 7 ran to outdoor conveted like in the garage in the mesh WiFi video
@@choosingmusic11488p If you only have Gb, anything better than CAT5 won't do a thing for you.
@@James_Knott oh ok
BINGO! He also needs to push his cables into the RJ45 ends more too, that blue jacket should be pushed in way deeper..
I really hope you used Solid copper not the CCA 'Copper Clad Aluminium' garbage.. Also real world testing has shown that cat5e can handle 10 gig connections someone got 8.5Gb/s with cat5e
EDIT: also those rj45 ends need to be re done on the switch.. the outside jacket shouldn't be that far back. You want the RG-45 tip to be locking the jacket in the tip.
To pinpoint where to drill in attic....
Drill a tiny hole in the ceiling, directly front of the wall where your cables are going to drop down and stick a wire hanger up through this hole into the attic. Up in the attic, locate the hanger (have someone move it around if not easily seen) and then drill into the wood joist/doubleplate directly behind the hanger. Fill tiny hole in ceiling with spackle or toothpaste. Works every time, no measuring needed.
Dude thats brilliant
Good idea, I have to do my runs this weekend and that will make it way easier.
Glow rods
A few points:
1) When taping the cable to the coax, stagger the cables, so you don't have one big bump to catch on things as you pull the cable in.
2) For proper installation, always terminate solid cable on jacks and then use a patch cord. While there are plugs for solid wire, those came about only because people insisted on doing things the wrong way. Yes, that means a patch panel at the switch end.
3) Another useful tool is a length of "dog chain", which can be dropped down inside walls, etc..
4) You installed the jack in the wall upside down. The wires are supposed to be at the top, with the latch at the bottom. This keeps dust from collecting on the contacts. I would also mount the switch connectors down, for the same reason.
5) Do not use solid wire for patch cords. It's not meant for that purpose and movement of the cable may cause metal fatigue in the wires, which will cause a break. In fact, these days, I don't even bother making patch cords, as buying them costs a lot less than my time.
6) It's hard to tell, but it appears you didn't push the cable far enough into the connector. When you crimp the connector, a piece of the plastic is supposed to clamp the outer insulation.
BTW, on my 500/20 cable modem connection, I typically get around 935/31, according to speedtest. I've seen as high as 948 down. My LAN is 1 Gb, so there's not much room for improvement.
Thanks so much for all the tips! The upside down plate was just me being in a hurry and noticed it later. The Switch worked the best for me that way but I understand the need of going the other way, I just find it odd TP-Link doesn't have holes to mount it that way.
7) when you cut out your low voltage box in the drywall, test the location to verify there is not a stud in your path.
I am just going to address a few things in this comment, as there is some misinformation.
1.) Sure, but it clearly worked, and it is only 2 lines. He isn't pulling a 12 line bundle.
2.) Patch panels are not necessary in this type of environment. They are useful in many ways, but for in-home use, re-terminating a broken line is not the end of the world.
3.) Fish tape or rods are a much better option due to rigidity. Use in conjunction with poly pull line for any needed flexibility.
4.) Keystone was installed "correctly" as the text should be right-side up, and the clip down. However, even when installed inverted, there are no adverse effects with the cover installed.
5.) I agree, solid core for patch cables is not the best option due to possible mechanical fatigue, but still viable in a home environment.
6.) Yes, the insulation should be pushed in as far as possible.
7.) Absolutely, but there is no evidence he didn't. Secondly, the box for the electrical outlet is most likely attached to a stud so as long as he has it 1.5 inches away, safe bet in modern construction.
Source: It is literally my job.
My only advise, and again you may have done this, is to leave a service loop, which is just a loop of extra cable, near each termination in the event you need to re-terminate in the future. Thank you for the video!
@@w0nd3rb0y 1) It worked in this case; the point of the comment was that, in general, it's a good idea to stagger the wires since you don't know what it might run into when fishing the line.
2) Patch panels aren't "necessary," but they're neater, they make organization and labeling easier, and they look more professional, which will be a sticking point when it comes time to sell the house. Nobody wants a mess of random wires hanging from holes in the ceiling. If it's literally your job and I'm paying you to run ethernet through my house, then you damn well better be installing a patch panel.
4) He filmed two different jacks for this video. One has the power outlet to the left, and is installed upside-down. The other doesn't and wasn't. If I were looking to buy a house that had upside-down keystones (or even worse, inconsistent from one jack to another), I'd assume all the other work done to it was half-assed as well. Also, the cover is not covering the wires inside the jack, so it appears you missed the point of the comment you're responding to.
@@rars0n You missed the point of my response. None of his bullet points matter in a simple home network. There are no wires inside the jack. I assume you are referring to the contacts. If someone is going to speak as an "expert", the terminology is important. Dust will not collect on the contacts inside the jack, upside down or not. For reference, many switches have alternating ports. They are designed to be installed horizontally. I don't find dust in the ports with the contacts on the bottom. It is not a concern.
When crimping an rj45 plug please push your cable in as far as you can so it also grips on the outer sleeve, the way you did yours they will eventually break.
Did you see the black ones? Those didn't even make it into the plug!
May* eventually break. If there is no movement, they will suffice. Additionally, if we are giving advise, please use correct terminology. It is jacket, not sleeve.
How do i find the top of the wall so i can put the wire ? Any tios thank you
@@giancarlotorres6795 Looks like he measured it with a tape measure from the end of the wall to the spot he wanted the jack.
He then went into the attic and used the tape measure again to find the spot to drill.
When running the cable be sure not to lay it next to power wires. It can and will pick up static from the current causing errors. Be sure to shove the wire sleeve up into the RJ45 giving the plug more support before crimping it down.
Yeah I was going to say that it looks like the socket is a bit too close to the power outlet.
Cross mains power cables at 90 degrees where possible if you have to pass them.
Don’t you just love when everything works out perfectly.
I had been putting it off forever but couldn't believe it ended up being much easier than planned.
Tip when stripping the cable the String is in there for a reason to help strip the jacket back, Its best practice to strip using the tool and then use the string to strip the jacket back further and use that fresh pulled back wire for termination. When using a stripper its possible to nick the wires and have them break when terminating or even worse in a few months time with movement and temp expansion cause intermittent problems.
Great video 👍 really good info here. Best time to do this project is fall or spring because attics during summer can reach 150f.
I actually recorded this a few months ago and it was nice and cool up there. Went up yesterday for a split second and I was sweating bullets!
15:46 is my favorite part of the video!
came to the comments looking for this. Ha ha ha
her: 👀👀👀👀
15:45 - "Why is daddy talking to himself? I'm scared..."
I have done a lot of network installs and I think it would be a good idea to re-crimp those RJ 45 ends and push the jackets way further inside so that it crimps properly.
I always add the blue boots on the ends as well.
That is a good idea, I realized I should have pushed them all the way in through the pass-thru end to have a better end. I actually did some others today like that and they look great. Thanks for the tip!
You should re terminate those RJ on the patch and in the switch end, it works but it is a possible point of failure. 100% agree with Anthony.
I'd highly recommend finding yourself a set of RJ45 plugs with a load bar too. They make things much easier and it results in the exposed conductor length being as minimal as possible.
It would an even better idea to use a patch panel instead of crimping RJ45 ends.
If you have an oscillating tool you can get a special saw attachment that cleanly cuts a perfect rectangular hole in dry wall. Although for some reason it works better with some oscillating tools than others.
Good job on fishing down the cable to the bedroom on the first try. From my experience, some newer homes have a fire block between the studs. Reference point locators are great tools but you nailed it!
something a lot of people neglect in rentals is simply going outside, so if you can go under the eaves or under the house and through an existing hole, go for it, if your renting think about what the easiest method will be to repair when you leave and keep it out of sight from anyone. That way when you leave its not a drama.
A bit difficult to see but it looked like the plug didn’t crimp on to the outer sleeve. Tends to put strain on the connections into the signal wires. Also there are 2 types of cables, stranded and solid core. Stranded is for use from a socket to a device as it can flex easier, but it has a higher attenuation so shouldn’t be used for more that 10 meters. Solid core is the stuff you do between socket and patch panel. Better attenuation but not designed to be flexed. The maximum distance you can run that is 90meters. This gives you the maximum 100 meter rating. If you flex solid core it starts to crack the conductors and it eventually fails.
If you punch down in sockets and patch panels then they have a guarantee of 20+ years, so it’s a fit and forget. Patch leads are throw away items.
Remember the specs are usually built with some over engineering and are, if followed, able to guarantee it will work to spec so when you put your cable certifier on the line it passes all the tests. Then the installer gives the 20 year guarantee backed up by the cable manufacturer. I’ve done 10’s of thousands of cables and only ever seen one fail cert tests for anything other than miss wiring.
Don’t sweat the advice here though, let’s face it your not going to be moving the switch connections about much so it’s not likely to have a problem that end and the other end is a socket. The patch cable breaking will just be a case of throwing it away and terminating another.
Good on ya for jumping in and getting it done.
The crimping of connectors still needs to be improved. The insulation of cable should go deeper into the RJ45 connector.
I know this is old but for others that just ran across this tutorial like I have this is an excellent guide in WHAT NOT TO DO!
Data cable should be kept away from electrical wires as much as possible.
The cable in the attic and wall cavity should be stapled.
Twists in the cable pairs should be maintained as close as possible to the terminations in the keystone
The outer jacket of the cable needs to be well past the strain relief.
The cables coming into the room with all the network gear should be on a patch panel.
Don’t make your own station cables buy pre-terminated ones. If you insist on making your own use stranded wire rather than solid core. I know the heads on many pass-thru brands say they work with solid core but they have a high failure rate.
CAT6 will run 10GB at 55 meters. You’ll probably connect at greater lengths but will likely have hire loss rates. 2.5 GB is possible at 100 meters.
Always looking to learn. Thanks.
A good tip a to find exactly where to drill is to take a thumb take and poke a tony hole in the ceiling. Take a small piece of RG-6 cable and strip the cable down to the copper clad center conductor. Once you strip the cable down, take 6-8" of the center conductor and push it in the hole. Make a mental note of about where the room is in the attic, brush your hands around the insulation and you will be right near where you drill down the header.
ALWAYS spray foam the penetrations (above and below the living space.) That's the only way to effectively keep your conditioned air in the conditioned space.
As to the RJ45 crimping, push the jacket (blue in this case) far enough into the RJ to allow the crimp to contact the jacket.
Yes!
3:30 is wrong. Cat6 can support up to 10 Gbps speed to distances up to 165 feet. It's Cat6A that does 328FT
Mistake 1- u attached coax to Ethernet cables -- attract a pull string or 2 for future…
If no coax pull I have before have pushed up from 1st floor pvc pipe to drop the cables thru…. PVC 1 inch or 3/4 or 1/2 pipe 10 ft stock length easily to get into the 8 foot tall 1st floor and the stiffness punches thru any obstacles in its way after cables and string pushed down pipe. Then you pull pipe out from the first floor
As an RCDD for 30 nearly years. I recommend buying your station cables rather than using the Cat-6 solid conductor cable which is used for your horizontal path cable.
"recommend buying your station cables"
what?
@@PatrickSmith87 Station cables are meant to be flexible and the pins of an RJ-45 plug are meant to pierce the jacket and make contact with stranded conductors. These systems are meant to work in this manner because the actual transmission of the signal works best to this matched ecosystem. Solid conductor cable is meant to be typically stationary after installation and station cables and patch cords are meant to be moved, or twisted and bend in more flexible manners. The next best reason is making your own station cables is costly and time consuming. 0.5 to 5 meter standard station cables can be bought very inexpensively, and these cable are usually quality tested and come with 25 year warranties as part of a structured cabling system.
just an fyi, cat6 only does 10Gbps at up to about 50 meters, you need cat6a for 10Gbps up to 100 meters
Just my two cents: the information printed on the cable not only tells you it is Cat 6, it also has the foot measurement of the cable. I believe it's in two foot increments. No need to guess how long the cable is or when to cut, just look at the cable and it will let you know how many feet you have pulled.
I’m so fascinated about your switch setup. Looks so clean and easy to understand.
Lol. Network snobs critiquing. 😂 I loved the video. Thanks, dude.
May I know the name of the software or app you used to create this animated portion of the video to show the wire path (Starting at Timestamp 1:49)? Thanks!!!
This is a combination of two programs. First, I designed my home use SketchUp. It is a 3D design app and I put different parts of the home on layers and just took screen captures I imported into my editing program.
Then for the blue line, I created that using a line animation in Adobe Premiere Pro. It took a bit of work to get right, but it did the job.
@@TechWithBrett Thank you very much!
Anytime I have an ethernet hole mounted in the dust catching orientation like your switch is I always buy some of those little rubber ethernet plugs for the unpopulated ethernet ports
So choosing between doing a keystone jack vs doing a port? Why not just do that receptacle as a brush pass through? Doesn’t the extra connection in the middle cause data loss?
I would say because the Keystone is a better finished look. The brush pass through is mainly used for areas like a TV where you want to change cables often. My kids would also shove stuff into the pass through if it was visible.
What was that switch and is it connected to the router Ethernet port or wired in directly
It is a TP Link 16 port switch. I have the Fiber Modem, plugged into the Router that is plugged into the switch. More details here: ruclips.net/video/wQQt9Qv6xDY/видео.html
My room is directly above the router and the rest up the wiring, surely this should be easy by just drilling and dropping cable down through wall right?
sure, but depends how neat you want it to look. Even if you run a plastic channel down the wall it won't look as neat and clean as if you run it through the wall. Also he chose an inside wall because then you don't generally have to worry about dealing with wall insulation which will make it potentially more difficult to fish the wire down through the wall cavity (particularly if you have closed cell insulation in the wall or dense pack insulation.
Very nice work, but my house has a fire block in the wall, so it's a bit hard to run the wire all the way down straight. 😐
Oh bummer, outside walls are required and I was lucky my inside walls didn't have them.
So I wouldn't use that riser cable for making a patch cord, it is solid core and more prone to breakage. Patch cables are also cheap.
When you were crimping that RJ45 plug on the cable you also did not insert the jacket far enough for the jack to grab onto it.
I've certainly learned a lot since posting this. Thanks for the tips.
Not as scary as I thought it would be making my own cables! Now I can run my own cable to my mancave! Can't wait!
In my opinion, going through the attic is always the best option as it is easy to hide away all the cables, and easy to drill into walls and drop the cables down inside the walls
It worked really well. The only time I wouldn't is if I had a crawl space but no attic to crawl through.
@@TechWithBrett Crawl space is great, but here where i'm from (Norway), they almost does not exist. The exception is really old houses
7:15 *_do not use sprayfoam insulation if the hole is too big_* , you will hate yourself later on.
Just use some tape if you are worried about the cords wiggling or stuff some excess loose insulation in the hole.
Pretty good with the basics. Only thing I might add is you really shouldn’t use solid core riser cable from the wall to the computer. Every time you move it your risking bending and breaking it. Stranded cabling is better. Also I would have put stain relief boots on the cable.
Thanks, I'll have to look into those.
Did you pull the black cable out first and then fish through that hole? so two cables in one small hole?
Yes I did two cables through one hole. You could also run a pull string through so you can pull another cable through with it.
Everyone else has critqued this but I'm curious about one thing. Why do you have the switch mounted with the ports facing up (or was that just a trick of the camera)? I would think you would want them facing down, so dirt and other debris doesn't get into them.
That's is actually how the mounting slots were oriented. It seemed odd to me but it kind of worked better for some of the wiring or my devices.
I have a question how do you use your old smart phone as Google assistant like the Google nest hub but it's on your phone and the display will be the same with Google nest hub
You never explained why you installed two cables. Was it for backup?
so those cables on copper pipe..so if they sweat or get hot?
0:39 if you cut a box for both rooms in the same stud bay, you'll get more noise transmission between the rooms. You may not want that.
If you put in ethernet cables throughout your house, then I would suggest using a patch panel instead of directly installing ethernet crimps.
This video was incredible. Literally everything I could ever ask for and know about. You're a legend. Can't wait to get started on this project (on a cooler Florida day, of course)!
Glad this was helpful! Yes, definitely a cool morning.
Bro I been wanting to wire this house with ethernet forever now. The only ports in the rooms are phone line jacks. I'm just worried Cat 6 won't be enough for long distances so I might have to go Linus Tech Tips style. I'm this close to just hiring an electrician. Also I've never been in my attic before.
It certainly is quite the undertaking! If you have plenty of room in your attic it makes it pretty easy to move around. Maybe in the fall take a look up there and if possible.
Great video! Would’ve liked you to touch more on the unfortunate use of A & B “standard” of wiring the RJ 45 connectors.
Great video!!
Quick question. Since you plugged the router into the TP-Link switch; does that mean all those devices in the switch will be throttled based on the speed of that Ethernet port on the router? So if you have two PCs connected to the same switch both of them won’t get 1Gbps right?
The Switch is actually designed to distribute the bandwidth across all devices that are plugged in. If you did have 2 PCs connected they will show that they are getting a similar speed.
Doing attic work by yourself is the worst lol. You are a hero.
Also, don't do this in the summer!
why was the speed test with the laptop vs the computer different? Should a drop in speed be expected when connected to ethernet?
Speed tests are not always accurate, and conditions between tests also may be different. Try to run a speed test yourself right now, 5 minutes apart, and you may notice they are not identical.
Great video! Quick question, how come your Cat6 cable didn't have a pair separator between each pair?
Noise Reducing Cross Separator .. it depends on the vendor that manufactures the bulk cable.. for home use, its perfectly fine without it... for businesses that's where you want. VoIP phones, printers, computers and other wired connections want to reduce crosstalk and any interference on the data lines
Most cat6 cable these days doesn't have a pair separator, they figured out how to make cable that meets cat6 specs without it. Progress.
Thank you so much for putting this video together. Running additional ethernet cables has been on my bucket list for awhile. This video really helped me understand what all is involved and the tools required.
If it is not practical or possible to run an ethernet cable to a particular room, would you recommend using a power line ethernet adapter?
No!
Hi Brett, 3 years ago you made a video about ace 2. Can it show how many calories are burnt? Thanks
This may be dumb question but why need cat with wifi?
Adding a direct cat cable is more reliable and faster than wifi. If you do gaming you also have a much lower ping.
@@TechWithBrett really? i didn’t know that. My house is pre wired from original builder and I’d thought it was obsolete.
Seems like the youngin wants to learn as well. Thanks for the video.
You need to fix those cable crimps man. You crimped the wires more than the sleeve. Oof
If you dont mind i ask.... How much for the month are you paying for that internet speed?? Thanks
I am paying $50 a month for 1GB Fiber. It would be $80 a month but I paid up front for the equipment so I only pay for the service now.
There are snap in connectors better than punch down use regular rf45 ends
Tech with Brett I have ea problem smth happened to my email so I woke up and it said my account would be deleted in 29 days I'm trying to save the stuff by it gets deleted but idk what to do exactly please help
Did you paint that smoke detector yellow?! Not allowed!
No, it just hasn't been replaced since 1993, lol. It has been changed now.
@@TechWithBrett Also important to change every 10 years or so. 😲
hi i am in a new built home with network points in diffrent rooms ,but i dont see any patch pannel in my home anyone have any idea .there is no basment is it possible in the attic thanks .
I can recommend everyone to get a testing tool, especially for toolless connectors. Terminating cat6 is much harder than 5e.
What a helpful video. Very detailed. I think I can move on with my project now. Thank you!!
Seems like CAT6 is the go-to-way in the US these days.
In Germany you can hardly find any CAT6 cables. The standard here is CAT7, these days often CAT7A, some people even use CAT8.2 (but I doubt the latter one makes any sense as 10GBase-T already consumes multiple times the power a 1GBase-T connection does, I guess 40GBase-T would run extremely hot and be even more power hungry)
I guess anything above CAT7 does not really make sense, for anything faster than 2.5 Gigabit at home I'd rather use Fiber, preferably multimode. Consumes a lot less power and can even do 25, 40 or 100 Gbit/s.
What if you need multiple wires in that room but you only have one outlet?
You can buy face plates that have multiple ports on them. Just make sure you label your cables on both ends.
Brett, great video with good pacing, just enough detail, very well done. I ran most of the cabling for a new home so was able to do so before the drywall was on so that was super nice! I bought a patch panel to really do it "right", but as it is coming down to it, I may just terminate those into the switch....
If you already have the patch panel, use it. Otherwise, you'll be fine. Just leave a bit of extra cable in a loop in the even you need to re-terminate in the future.
what kind of computer is this?
i tried for 3 hrs to use them pass through plugs i couldnt get them wires to pass through for nothing
They are a bit challenging. Once I have the pairs unwound, and then smoothed out the end I make a clean cut so they are all lined up. Then I slowly thread it in and just wiggle a little bit to get it to go through and keep them aligned.
You can use COAX as Ethernet.
I should try that sometime. I already removed the coax from all the rooms though...
I've been reading up on it. COAX can do much more than just provide a TV signal.
The way to do that is with media converters. These convert twisted pair Ethernet to coax and can also provide power over Ethernet. The ones I've worked with do 100 Mb and were intended to be used when converting analog security video to digital.
FYI, you can get more than 1000Mb on cat5e. Most houses are short runs and there's not hundreds of cables like a business would have so no cross talk
Nice sometime next year were gonna get our electrician to install networking into our house and ethernet jacks. Since ATT Fiber might be coming to our area in a year or 2 and for when we have wifi issues. :)
Excellent ! Thank You
Why not 6A? 6 only 10Gbps to 55 meters?
No fire block in that wall?
This was an internal wall so it didn't have one.
I do it the old fashion way of producing the patch cables, without a passthrough rj-45. I'm jealous.
But at least I have 8 network ports through conduit in my office connected to one of my two 24 port gigabit switches.
Your operation is very detailed, which helps me a lot, but the insulation of cable should go deeper into the RJ45 connector.
Indeed
Oof! If you’re going to make a “how to” video, it’s likely a good idea to show people how to do it right.
- CAT6 only good for 10G up to 55meters or less
- One shouldn’t eyeball the wall plate and at least use a level
- Don’t untwist the pairs before placing in the keystone, only untwist as much as necessary
- make sure the crimps catch the jacket, not just the wires.
Your response that it’s “good enough for now” may be okay for you, but you’re making video content to inform, no?
Off topic but safety minded - if your smoke alarms are that yellowed or brown, it’s time to change them out. They expire after 10 years, even if you put a new battery in them. Check the date on those and switch them out asap.
Awesome video!
I recently got a Firewalla to use as my edge router. Was able to get a lot better network speeds rather than using my WiFi router as my main router. Might help you out to get a different router instead of using the Google router.
THIS IS the video I needed
@Brett is that a Mi Watch at 08:24
It is a Samsung Galaxy Watch 4. I added a new band since I made a video about it.
Thanks Brett 🙂.
Sending this to my Son who is an Electrician.
JaneLee - in Suburban Philadelphia
6/26/22
While outdoor ethernet cable is available, I would never use it as copper on the outside of the house is susceptible to lighting strikes and can not just fry your network but all devices that are hard wired to it.
As if some siding and sheathing is going to stop lightning.
Any idea how to make my tpljnk access points faster there WiFi 6 and it was an extender but in access point mode now. Also how can I make my gigabit Internet faster on ethernet I got a cat 7 ran to outdoor conveted like in the garage in the mesh WiFi video
Brother. how much do you weigh? 🤔 Will my attic stand if I climb it. i weigh 224 pounds 😬😁 Thanks for video 💯
Like 250. Don't step on the sheetrock only the rafters.
Not all cables follow that pattern with pre-made as long as both ends are the same
Should be using Cat7 to future proof....
If I needed to go better than CAT6, I'd go with fibre.
I might move soon so I didn't want to put in the extra cost...
@@TechWithBrett There is a huge differrence between cables... cat6 and cat6a etc etc. Its vital to do proper research when it comes to these types of cables... not to mention hdmi and displayport cables... its easy to buy inferior cables, that doesnt even support f.ex 4k 120 hz.. if you just assume things.
@@James_Knott Even if you got fiber, that cable only goes as far as into your router... from there you need regular cables to your tv, pc etc... and you dont want to use your old cat6 or cat6a cables... ditch them all and get cat7a or higher.
@@wojtek-33 fool....
I’m not familiar with building code in America. What in the world is up this horrible loose insulation all over your attic?
Is that common? Seems like a total nightmare to deal with.
That is called blow-in insulation and it is very common. Much cheaper than anything else that is available. It does cause some problems since I stepped on a light while I was up there.
@@TechWithBrett It's also an easy way to add installation. This was common many years ago.
First lovely vid amazing idea
i like cat 6 ethernet ports : )
Wow that insulation looks awful and messy, do you guys have Rockwool there in the US?
In Australia we are can't do this for legal reasons
That's crazy to me. It sometimes is pretty tough to do though.
That's utter BS.... anyone can make their own Ethernet cables in Australia.
Yep, in Australia we can't do any behind the wall wiring, even low voltage, for safety/legal reasons. I had an electrician run all my ethernet cables through my roof space and walls. The plus side, their cable management makes it look a lot neater.
@@harri3020 BS...
This stuff is way to complicated for me i wish you could just come do it for me
Haha, I'd love to if you're in Utah.
Great video sir! Thank you so much 🎉
A good, informative video. Thanks!
Should have ran a string with it and pulled coax back up for future
You're supposed to push the sleeve of the cable up inside the connector
Um actually... Cat6 supports 10Gbps for 55m. 😊 Otherwise, great vid.
You might want to check that yellowed smoke detector. They only have a certain lifespan before they expire.
Good eye! I already have a new one, just need to find the time to install.
@@TechWithBrett The joys of the never ending projects haha, great video btw thanks
30 years of networking and i have never seen a crimp in reverse order..