If you ever need to replace that cable, you'll have to re-chase that area, so a super easy solution is to put a plastic pipe or box in the chase and feed the cables through it. That way, after you've repaired the chase, if you ever need to replace those cables you can attach the new ethernet cable to the old one and simply pull it through, saving you from having to rechase the wall in the future.
@@paulh43no, @moretickle is just future proofing. Personally, i’d rather make a bigger/deeper chase once & install conduit which will show up on a service checker, but it’s not required (to my knowledge) to do so.
I've never been so thankful for drywall...lol I did this in my house but was lucky to be able to run it from a closet upstairs in my office that fed down to the ceiling of the basement then follow plumbing back up to the main floor. A second line went up to the attic and connected to a switch that ran to all devices like a Roku in both bedrooms. Took me a couple of hours with almost no mess to repair. It is so much better than having to count on Wifi (and much more secure)
CAT6a CAN carry higher speeds, for example if you were to kit out your house for 2.5Gb networking. CAT5e & CAT6a both more than capable of full Gigabit speeds. We tend to run CAT6a anyway nowadays as the cost increase on the cable reels is minimal at the scale we do this. CAT6a is also shielded and has more twists per foot which helps mitigate interference and cross-talk between the wire pairs. Love your videos as always, gives us DIY-ers confidence to do it ourselves!
Blimmey, clear concise informative video. No waffle / blah blah or drama. Well made, makes me want to watch other videos by you even if I have little interest in doing the work. Thanks and well done 🙂👍
Great content - one piece of advice from me, never run just 1 cable. Always 2. The back box isn’t any bigger, the effort is pretty much the same, yes the cable cost is more but that’s negligible for the effort, but crucially if one of those cables is damaged, you’ll be thankful you ran the other. Where you will have one device plug in, there’s generally a good chance there’ll be 2. Eg tv + media box, desktop computer + printer etc
@@nickgilbert1264 i find in the majority of cases, cables are being retrospectively pulled in by rod and fitting conduit isn’t within the scope of the job as is too destructive or too much making good to do, but yes, if the run is accessible, conduit is always appreciated!
A few things I would consider: - Use the highest spec Ethernet cable you can afford now, it will save you from having to replace a cheaper one when it will no longer be able to keep up with the evolving standards - Use cable conduits whenever possible - Use cable rated for in-wall installation. Abrasion and fire resistant, zero smoke, zero halon etc. It might save you & your family - Avoid routing the cable where it could get in contact with water. Water and electricity (even low voltage) are not good bed fellows - Install 1-2 extra cables on the same route, even if not required or connected for now, you'll thank yourself later - Be careful with the bend radius, do NOT bend the Ethernet cables in sharp 90 degrees (or more) corners, make them as round as possible, at least a few centimeters radius. At the frequencies these cables operate with, sharp bends will affect the EM waves and will unnecessarily degrade your signal - Lay the cables in a "hub & spoke" pattern (i.e. point to point connections from your router or switch to wherever your to-be-connected devices are), do NOT think you can "daisy-chain" them - For anything more complicated than just a few connections, consider installing an Ethernet patch panel, it will make your life easier - Like somebody else wrote, try to keep Ethernet cables separate from power lines. Consider PoE as an alternative for low power devices (e.g. cameras, routers, switches etc.) - Absolutely test them (even with the cheap 10 pounds tester) before completing the installation & wall repair.
In regards to conduit in this scenario what type would you use? Conduit/Capping or Trunking? I assume conduit or trunking is better for use because the cable can be pulled out will no damage, as wont be able to do this with capping. I assume The purpose of conduit is to protect the cable from damage from the sharp fragments from the wall chase.
" Install 1-2 extra cables on the same route, even if not required or connected for now, you'll thank yourself later" - best bit of advice, it is painful having to re-run especially once everything is filled in and done neat
I did my house quite a few years ago now. As this is a 1930s semi with floorboards, it wasn't too hard, and I have a cabinet in a cupboard in the garage. It was well worth the effort.
Since I usually live in single story homes, I like to run a single cable from the modem to a decent switch or small rack in a central coat closet,. I then put an appropriate diameter piece of conduit with brush grommets, through the ceiling in the closet into the attic for the ethernet cable runs to pass through. It takes much longer doing it that way but for me it's worth the extra time and effort. I try to plan ahead so I left pull lines going to the boxes so I could more easily add more later if need be. I luckily have 8 PoE ports powering mesh wifi drops with ethernet backhaul around the house mounted to the ceiling in bedrooms, living room, and my shop in the garage. Along with a few 10gig fiber runs to the office and entertainment center and at least 1 Eth run to each room. Took a while but everything is hidden and tidy. Can always add a sub switch in a room, if needed later, but having everything in the walls already makes that a trivial adjustment. Good video with some decent solutions for older homes and multi level dwellings.
In older houses like this that have solid brick walls, if they still have the original plaster on the walls, you'll usually find that you can dig quite deep directly into the inner corners of the room and a single cable will fit there, sometimes there is space for 2. This also means you can route the cable along the ceiling edge, and down the inner of a wall leaving you with minimal chasing out. It's not the best way to do it, but sometimes it does help things along.
Great video, very informative, i recently fitted a security light thanks to the help of your channel , i plan to change a single electric socket to a double socket next thanks to your videos, which are very helpful, to people who know what they want to do , but not absolutely sure how to do it themselves, your videos are a great help
One thing that appears to have been overlooked is the mention of bringing back all cables to a central point near the router so that you either a) connect the ports direct to the router if the number of sockets are =< the number of ports on the router (which in that case the socket next to the router should be a 4 gang to act as a patch panel), or if the number of sockets is > the number of ports that a switch will need to be fitted. This video is really more about how to install sockets and chase walls out than how to actually network the house.
@@srod2966 you don't need a rack, it's easier to network and futureproof using a switch at a central location, 1 chase(if needed) = up to 8 sockets, also just fyi all provider supplied homehubs are shit and just a p.s. i'm sending this on a network that I installed using a switch and i only had to chase 6 inches
Don't be afraid of going outside the property. It's very easy to drill a hole from the inside to the outside. This lets you get the cable all the way around to the other side of the house, or indeed directly into the loft space where cables can come down from above in the upper rooms.
Good video about the practicalities of running the cable (the hard bit). Making terminations is the easy part! for any more than a couple of sockets I would start thinking about running the cables into a patch panel and putting up a network cabinet somewhere out of the way. That way you can hide everything neatly away behind lock and key.
Great video, just about to buy a 1970s house too and will need to do this. This helps so much with me and the mrs working from home and not relying on the wifi
We did this while but renovating our house,so had the facility of running the cabling under floors etc.my pal who fitted it all doubled up on the cabling to each socket so that if any neede changing in future the replacement cabling was already there. Fitting it was as cheap as chips and absolutely worthwhile,ethernet is king.
Ethernet cables can be used for different applications, for example a TV connection, a phone connection or a PC connection. The connector on the router will be different according to the intended application at the other end of the cable. Since that initial designed application can change, plan to install a patch panel. I would prefer to put conduit into the chased out channel for future development or to anticipate future accidents - wife hanging pictures and putting a nail through the ethernet cable.
Great video! You make it look very easy. Thank you so much to help us make things for ourselves. It could be worth mentioning you can use switches to connect devices on the same floor and using the cable from the router up to each switch as the core link.
Nice video, and if you're doing renovations, it's a good time to install Ethernet cables. Because I didn't fancy a lot of drilling and chasing, I went for a different approach. I used Cat 6 cable which is suitable for exterior use, and ran it from my router location around the outside wall of the house along the line of the guttering and back around to the area I wanted to terminate it. I installed a wifi mesh using wifi 7 for the rest of the house coverage. Each mesh unit has 4 Ethernet ports, which can be used to connect hard wire to. It runs at up to 10Gb so it's very fast.
Good video as it shows how easy it is. I would recommend you install shielded cable, I replaced all my old CAT5e cable with shielded CAT6 (specifically S/FTP) and found my network speeds improved by a noticeable percentage. I ran a cable up into my loft, connected it to a gigabit switch (industrial grade rated for high temperature operation) and then ran cables down into each bedroom.
For those that don’t know, the shield is essentially a foil barrier to prevent noise/interference from other services - the tester shown in this video has it shown as ‘G’ (probably for ground, but i can’t remember off hand if this is connected to earth?)
That sounds like either your Cat5e cable was bad, or not properly terminated. However Cat5e is fully rated for up to 2.5Gbps at the full 100m and you only need shielded cable if you are in an extremely noisy electrical environment. It should never be needed in a domestic property.
Fantastic. Clear in focus video, precise no waffle information AND without any irritating music. Thank You. Can you do similar from the BT box outside the house? I have 2 lines coming in to my house the original was purely the phone line and is still in use though the outer cable cover is damaged where it comes through the wall. The newer cable was installed and runs all the way round the house exterior before entering an upstairs office and is no longer in use. I'd like to swap the cabling at the BT junction box outside the house.
I've used Powerline ethernet adapters & ethernet switches in the rooms i needed a network connection; this saved a lot of hassle with drilling, cutting and chasing wiring up and down the house. Works a treat.
They don't work for everyone. Depending on your house wiring, you may not get good performance from these. I also had a weird problem with data noise getting into an amplified speaker in the house. I installed network cables to every room in the house (except bathrooms of course).
When I switched to 1gig fibre broadband, I noticed the power line adapters absolutely cripple the speeds at devices using them. And this is a new property and router and powerline adapters are on the same floor/circuit. If you are on 100Mbps broadband you probably won’t notice it, but switch to 900Mbps and you will. Hardwiring Ethernet is my plan. Thanks for this video.
Powerline adapters are hit and miss at best (even if they're on the same power circuit). I'd use them as a last resort where possible as they tend to be slow as well (if they do work). Its always better option to run cables where you can.
Another great video. A general comment worth noting that data cables should be kept a minimum of 50mm away from mains cables. Induced noise can effect data transfer performance. The ethernet cable connection tool has several names; IDC, Krone Punch Down Tool, Punch Down Tool - and probably many others
I don't believe that should be necessary. Cat6 and Cat5e cables use balanced pairs which are immune to common-mode interference that you might get from power cables.
Very interesting thank you so much. Here in Australia we call the black box a r-out-er so was confused at first when you called it a route-er. Thank you for all the training you give us much appreciated.
I totally get why you didn’t cover it because it’s overkill for most.. but a much better way of doing this is run ALL the CAT cable back to a central point and install a patch bay and network switch. Then you can have point to point network anywhere or just stick it all into the switch and have everything connected to everything.
I love the little yellow tool, I've always had a big clunky stripper or snips in a rush, that tool looks ace. As always, a damn good video Cameron, hope the old house is coming along nicely.
@@domhamai For a few cables, those small ones do OK, but I agree, if you are going to install more than a couple of cables, a proper punch-down tool with spring and release will do the job better, and cut the excess cable in one.
I’ve been trying to think for months and easy way to get cabling into my loft. Now I “think” you’ve cracked it with the stack pipe boxing idea! Just need to check the exact location!
Regarding doing chases in such manner, I would have ran a cable hose from the socket up to the floor space above before filling that chase with bondo to cover it up, making it easy to replace the cables in case one goes back.
In Germany I don't run CAT5e or CAT6 cables any more as the prices don't differ too much from CAT7. So I'm installing future-proof CAT7 with Cat6A Keystone module which also deliver 10Gb Ethernet flawlessly over a longer distance - especially when you immure the cable into the wall.
Great work. Couple notes though. I would definitley go for a 4 gang minimum on the one closest to the wall. Even if you don't need 4 points round the house right now at least you could spur off from them. Also, get some conduit in there in case you do want to run more wires or swap some out. Finally, if you don't care too much about latency and bandwidth, but still want a wired connection you might want to try out powerline adapters first. They plug into the wall outlets then use your electric cables already in your walls to transmit signals.
wouldnt it make more senst to add somesort of channel for the cable so whenever you need to replace it upgrade it or add cables you dont need to do all the wall demolition parts again ?
4:20 completely threw me when you're talking about getting the box straight but its blatantly crooked on the screen. Then I realised the camera must be crooked 🤣
I'd approach it in 3 ways. 1. Can I use mesh/powerline? 2. use the fastest cable you can and always run an extra in case someone chews through it. 3. I'd ideally run a patch panel into the loft so you can then patch to other rooms from the loft if needed. Really nice video! If you do this a lot I'd have a push tool as it snips the ends for you.
Fascinating to see the process of installing cable, it's actually illegal to do it yourself here in Australia and it must be done by a registered cabler.
@@doughmestic-blisshat’s hilarious. What muppet came up with that! What’s next you can’t change a light bulb unless you’re a professional? How about putting up curtain rails? Painting a wall? Government gone mad!
@@davideyres955 Yes I agree that we do tend to over regulate in Oz, however being an expat I also hate all the cables, conduits, pipes etc fixed to the surface of walls in the UK. Assuming the wall with the router is an outside wall, would it not be a cavity wall?? Not sure if house construction with double brick is different from Oz but here the cables would be "snaked" up the cavity & into the roof/attic space without any drilling or chasing.
Chimneys are also a good option for running cables. In my house I don't use the chimney as there is not real fire, but it's been useful to run HDMI cables and network cables between ground floor and upper floors and the loft.
"I recommend you use easyfill " no shit haha In all seriousness, great vid and very informative. I made the mistake by not checking the cable before I buried it. I must have damaged the ends when feeding through some noggins. Got away with just replacing the ends , wife was livid with all the holes haha
I used to install many home network systems with cables going back to an AV/IT rack. However, many homeowners weren’t installed in using it unless for static hard-wired devices such as smart TVs, printers or NASs. Even laptops they always preferred to use wi-fi. Equally, I’ve had clients who insist on WAPs that can handle their incoming bandwidth. I.e, if they’re paying for 300MBs they want that through their wi-fi
Unfortunately wifi speeds are usually bottlenecked by the router & effected by the composition of the walls. Current TV adverts by several companies in the UK for “the nations fastest wifi” are carefully worded & unprovable.
Thank you very much for the helpful video. I was worried about chasing the cable in the walls as it seemed daunting. I ended up running them around the outside of the house instead. Will certainly use your method once I get around to decorating front room
I’m moving into a new house that has a socket near where the fibre comes in and a socket in the living room other than plugging my router into the socket in the living room and seeing if it’s connected is there any other way I can tell if they are connected
Really informative. I would love to if you could give some ideas on how to measure and correctly cut your cables so that you don't waste too much. Thanks
If your going to do all that effort as opposed to Ethernet over mains, I would bring all the cat 6 ports back to a patch panel in a cupboard somewhere and use an ethernet switch. Remember cat 5/6 can also be used for phones & other low voltage signals , so if you have a main BT socket you can run that back to your patch panel then have the phone in whichever room you wish. also get a proper punch down tool. Cuts the cables as you install them into the socket / patch panel. And just to be clear NEVER JOIN THE CAT 5 CABLES WITH BLOCKS / WIRE NUTS / WIRE CONNECTORS. The number of times I've had to deal with structured cabling installed by electricians who think because it has an electrical connection it is fine...
@@SaintGerbilUK CAT 6 supports up to 10Gbase-t up to 50m in length. Depending on your luck you might be able to get 5Gbase-t up to 100m, but 2.5G and 1000base-t should be pretty safe at 50-100m.
You should use some conduit on your wall run so future work to the cabling, running extra cable or upgrading what’s there etc is possible and easy. I’d also advise you to run two cables even if you only plan on using one. Network cable is cheap and you’ve done all the hard work already.
Perhaps you did, but it's not clear in the video. But you should have used conduit pipe in the space you made for the chase to run the cable through. It means that if ever you need to change the cable (For example if you wanted to change Cat6 to a new standard) you can just pull the cable through. You've made it a tougher job for yourself just sticking the cable into the wall with filler.
@dougaldouglas8842 protection the cable in the wall in any sort of conduit, capping etc is not obligatory in the UK and this is a UK video, so be careful of miss leading comments.
@@stevenskillern1477 I've always wondered and your comment prompted me to look it up. It's a bit of a grey area as it's sort of implied but I have also always realised ~ like the yellow tape put above cables in the ground ~ that capping doesn't offer perfect protection from piercing. The metal capping can still be overcome by the oomph of a nail gun apparently and of course the plastic version would only stop the most diligent driller if he were lucky enough to hear the slight difference in sound in the milliseconds before the drill passed through it into the cables. Apparently the best protection that capping offers is from the new plaster's chemical make-up eating into the wires' insulation over time. The benefit of capping is at best as a poor version of trunking allowing the pulling through of cables themselves.
Very informative, and the easy part I wanted to know is at 3.42, I know it was obvious, but sometimes I doubt what appears to be the logical answer, ha ha :) How to connect the router to the new wall jack, no laughing please :) Cheers buddy, great video, have subscribed.
could you have used the same channel as the power that you ran the other day? it is very close? That is isf you had planned it all out togther...Or would the leectricity cause issues with the signal?
Great video. 👏🙏 When you were drilling the hole from the chase in the downstairs wall into the floor space above with the long drill bit, what precautions had you taken to make sure you didn't go through a pipe or cable in the floor above? Was it just a visual inspection of the area from upstairs prior to drilling? Many thanks for the fantastic, clear and helpful content!
If you already have coax aerial sockets throughout your house then it's a lot less hassle to use MoCA adapters to get wired ethernet network connections everywhere 👍
So cool, memories from my networking days; tbf I was trunking my new PC to my TV to tidy up the cables and cat6ing my other half's PC did pop in my head, currently it's running a loose cable round the back of the sofa.🤔✌
If I had the tools and knowledge 5 years ago when I bought my 1930s flat I would of trid this. My solution ended up being using a flat 5e cable and routing it along the skirtings and tucking it into the carpet because I'm a classy guy. Far from ideal but this is a great solution especially as home plugs are not great and old wiring isn't ideal either
Great video , but how do you confidently deal with the Floor upstairs when its not planks for flooring, but those large sheets of mdf type boards ? it means almost lifting a whole 8x4 sheet ??????
Just a note for anyone taking on this project. Do not run cat 5e cable along side mains power cable or through holes in joists that contain mains cables. a 50mm gap between the cables is required.
Should always run 2 cables even if it is only for one port at the time, you never know if it might fail in future and you don't want to re-do the wall chasing
Would it not make more sense, if you have to chase the wall to run conduit so you have a nice easy route incase you need to run anything else? Also I noticed you ran the cables separately to the same location, wouldn’t it make more sense to have 2 runs and tape them together? Basically running both cables in one run
The downside to taping cables together, especially if you run them in a conduit rather that simply buried in a wall, is that at some point you may need to change one of them. I wired out house for network when we were moving in, 10 yrs down the road, things change and I needed to repurpose a cable that was routed from up near the loft to the cellar. Rather than run a whole new cable, I was rerouting the final 5m of it. The problem I hit was I had been "tidy" and taped the 2 cables together through the conduit. Tape ends and pull together, YES, tape along the length, I would avoid.
We have 4 BT HomeHub6 discs around our home, which provide wifi perfectly around the house through thick walls of our 200+yr old property over 40 metres, cabling seems like overkill
I like your videos, very practical. I would recommend having both wired and wifi in your home if you can. I would recommend a wifi mesh system, which will give you the effect of a single WiFi throughout your home. This will give you good WiFi speeds too even without a wired network. If you have cabled network in your house then even better as you can get a Mesh system that supports "Backhaul" as the Mesh devices will offer full speed WiFi and route the traffic down the wired network rather than across the wifi mesh. The latest Mesh systems use WiFi 6E, which lets them transmit traffic through the mesh even faster than your wired network. Other advantages would be if you are going Smart Home and IOT things and getting a Mesh system that support that.
Don't use mesh systems if you are putting all the effort into hardwiring. I'd recommend using poe wireless access points. Mesh systems are poor in my experience.
@theEnjoyed this, well done. The only thing I would have recommended would be resessed cable ducting in the channel chase you made. This would then give you a degree of future proofing if you ever need to replace the cables, or add new ones.
If you're planning on pulling data cables through conduit you'll need to avoid any sharp bends, and keep the tension below 25 lbs, otherwise you risk damaging the transmission qualities of the cable.
What is the best way to do this if you need more than 2 upstairs? Is there a way of having multiple wires coming off of the 2-socket box or would it be to have some sort of splitter/network box upstairs or can the sockets be daisy-chained?
You have 2 main options: You can run as many cables as you need and install a wall plate that has that number of ports. If you're already going through the trouble of running data cables to a location, this may be a better option. If you don't want to or can't run that many cables, the next best thing would be to install a network switch. In short, you can think of a switch as a power strip where you can plug in multiple ethernet connections to a single box. You can buy simple switches that only have 4 ports to larger ones that have 48 ports.
You should have mentioned the type of cable. You should be using solid core for fixed installation. The problem with a lot of installation is that it can work but may well be introducing a lot of noise which will mean lots of errors and retransmits and therefore poorer performance. The specs for running cables are to provide a guaranteed performance which can only really be ascertained with a really expensive certifier. It will probably be fine in short run situations but people may well not know.
@@triplexdreadhe means stranded or solid core cable. Solid core structural cable should be used for your runs whereas stranded is better for connecting your devices to the wall socket.
@@domhamai The only reason for using solid core over stranded for fixed installations is cost. You can happily use stranded if you want it's covered in the IEE 802.3 Ethernet specifications and it does have some advantages for retro fitting as it is easier to run being more flexible. However you do need to make sure that your wall plates and patch panels are suitable for use with stranded cable as not all are.
Dunno if you mentioned it or not, but was there some kind of channel in that chase going up to the top floor? Rather than bogging in your cable, you could have a plastic channel in case you later decide to run another cable through it, or replace/upgrade the cat-5e cable.
Those Sky boxes are a PITA, we had a bunch of Sky boxes operating in a mesh network which had totally buggered our network because the Sky kit doesn't play nice with the non-Sky gear. Wired the bloody things together and disabled the WiFi/meshing on them and voila, no problems, perfect.
Hiya, I want to start getting some tools together for renovations. I don't own a drill currently. If I buy an SDS drill can I use that for all drilling (e.g. normal holes for putting up the likes of curtain poles etc) or do I need to buy a hammer drill for that purpose?
SDS drills are typically used for heavy-duty drilling into materials such as brick, stone, concrete and other types of masonry. An SDS drill and a hammer drill are very similar. They both do the same job, but an SDS drill does it better. For a DIYer I would recommend a combi drill to start. It's basically a drill, hammer drill and screw driver all in one. As you progress with your renovations you might want to buy an SDS drill for drilling into concrete or stone.
I've run weatherproof Cat 7 ethernet cables from my virgin hub via a ethernet switch to the outside, up to our bedroom and around the side of the house to our sons room. Another switch box means his Xbox and laptop aren't reliant on iffy Wifi that far from the hub (it was actually non existent) and a third is in our room. Our TV boxes use ethernet which means we have a good signal where we need it most. It also means that if the WiFi dies we still have the telly and laptops. However with the advent of mesh networks I've gone one step further. I've installed three eero mesh pods so far with two being backhauled and I'm waiting for a fourth which will also be wired. This will completely cover our house in WiFi as three of the four pods are hard wired. My recommendation is to disable the WiFi on your ISP router and put it in modem mode. That stops any signal clashes and now we have every device that has an ethernet socket hardwired and all the devices such as our phones, Hive thermostat and echo devices that are wifi only have a full strong signal. Then there's the speed issue. We now have the proper speed from our ISP that we pay for whether wired or wireless. I like what you did and I find it fascinating but in reality it's either a job for when a property is empty and being refurbished or if you have a very understanding partner. I have neither 😂
I was lucky, my house is of an era and 'executive' grade it had antenna sockets in all bedrooms. No one uses terrestrial now, the points were redundant so I just used the old coax as pulls (loose as under dry lining) for cat6 cables and replaced the antenna faceplates with ethernet plates. Then put a network switch in the loft. I you need more connections in the bedroom you can use a local mini switch
There is a lot missing from this video, especially a basic network diagram showing how you would use a network switch to connect the sockets together. In most cases, using a switch will greatly simplify the install and reduce the amount of cable needed. In my case, I put the switch in the loft and ran the cables down to the upper floor rooms using the gap in the stud wall. Only a single cable joined the router to the loftspace, which I did by going through the outside wall and up the back of the drain pipe into the soffit (and therefore, loft space). The main cable between the router and loft switch is therefore easily replacable should it ever needed to be upgraded. I also put cables in conduit where possible and left in a length of strong string (builders line) in case I want to pull any addtional cables through them in the future (much cheaper than putting in a second CAT6 cable as others have suggested).
It's also helpful to know furniture placement where you can hide cable if need be. I agree that a switch is the way to go. It is way easier. I have my cable modem (one I purchased not rented) that connects to a PFSense firewall/router and that goes to a switch that connects the rest of the house.
Great video, just a quick question, I know nothing about this sort of stuff especially drilling. If you are using the test for seeing if there is wires/pipes behind the wall, is it definitely a case where there wont be wires or pipe on the other side? Thanks
Hi. Great videos mate. Question, I need to do a re-wire and network cables also. Would I do 1 big chase and put all cables in same chase? Or 2 chases, 1 for electrical and 1 for Ethernet? Cheers.
Worth bearing in mind that Cat6 is less tolerant of bends than Cat5e is. If you have bends/corners with a radius any tighter than a tennis ball it can impact the performance of the cable. And also regardless of whether you go Cat6 or 5e, get the decent stuff at least 24AWG don't go for the cheap rubbish with crappy thin copper like 28AWG.
Excellent video every helpful.. What was the reason to use a 2 Ethernet wall socket when you used only one? Can the other one also be wired up tonconnect another device?
If you ever need to replace that cable, you'll have to re-chase that area, so a super easy solution is to put a plastic pipe or box in the chase and feed the cables through it. That way, after you've repaired the chase, if you ever need to replace those cables you can attach the new ethernet cable to the old one and simply pull it through, saving you from having to rechase the wall in the future.
Standard!!! Samething applies to Electrical cables... These kinda projects require PVC Conduit Pipes and Junction boxes.
wow, he didn't use that right? Is this a video how you should not do it?
@@paulh43no, @moretickle is just future proofing. Personally, i’d rather make a bigger/deeper chase once & install conduit which will show up on a service checker, but it’s not required (to my knowledge) to do so.
He didn't even mention either a or b wiring setup also this guy feels like a Sparky/builder than anything like a network guy
@@England91The channel is called 'DIY Guy', not 'Network Guy'
I've never been so thankful for drywall...lol I did this in my house but was lucky to be able to run it from a closet upstairs in my office that fed down to the ceiling of the basement then follow plumbing back up to the main floor. A second line went up to the attic and connected to a switch that ran to all devices like a Roku in both bedrooms. Took me a couple of hours with almost no mess to repair. It is so much better than having to count on Wifi (and much more secure)
CAT6a CAN carry higher speeds, for example if you were to kit out your house for 2.5Gb networking. CAT5e & CAT6a both more than capable of full Gigabit speeds. We tend to run CAT6a anyway nowadays as the cost increase on the cable reels is minimal at the scale we do this. CAT6a is also shielded and has more twists per foot which helps mitigate interference and cross-talk between the wire pairs.
Love your videos as always, gives us DIY-ers confidence to do it ourselves!
Blimmey, clear concise informative video. No waffle / blah blah or drama. Well made, makes me want to watch other videos by you even if I have little interest in doing the work. Thanks and well done 🙂👍
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
Great content - one piece of advice from me, never run just 1 cable. Always 2. The back box isn’t any bigger, the effort is pretty much the same, yes the cable cost is more but that’s negligible for the effort, but crucially if one of those cables is damaged, you’ll be thankful you ran the other. Where you will have one device plug in, there’s generally a good chance there’ll be 2. Eg tv + media box, desktop computer + printer etc
Or just put it in conduit which is dirt cheap. Then you can replace or upgrade the cable in the future.
@@nickgilbert1264 i find in the majority of cases, cables are being retrospectively pulled in by rod and fitting conduit isn’t within the scope of the job as is too destructive or too much making good to do, but yes, if the run is accessible, conduit is always appreciated!
Like from me. So good to see someone who is working with solid walls rather than Americans with plasterboarded walls.
I was just thinking I will never complain about US wall construction again
A few things I would consider:
- Use the highest spec Ethernet cable you can afford now, it will save you from having to replace a cheaper one when it will no longer be able to keep up with the evolving standards
- Use cable conduits whenever possible
- Use cable rated for in-wall installation. Abrasion and fire resistant, zero smoke, zero halon etc. It might save you & your family
- Avoid routing the cable where it could get in contact with water. Water and electricity (even low voltage) are not good bed fellows
- Install 1-2 extra cables on the same route, even if not required or connected for now, you'll thank yourself later
- Be careful with the bend radius, do NOT bend the Ethernet cables in sharp 90 degrees (or more) corners, make them as round as possible, at least a few centimeters radius. At the frequencies these cables operate with, sharp bends will affect the EM waves and will unnecessarily degrade your signal
- Lay the cables in a "hub & spoke" pattern (i.e. point to point connections from your router or switch to wherever your to-be-connected devices are), do NOT think you can "daisy-chain" them
- For anything more complicated than just a few connections, consider installing an Ethernet patch panel, it will make your life easier
- Like somebody else wrote, try to keep Ethernet cables separate from power lines. Consider PoE as an alternative for low power devices (e.g. cameras, routers, switches etc.)
- Absolutely test them (even with the cheap 10 pounds tester) before completing the installation & wall repair.
In regards to conduit in this scenario what type would you use? Conduit/Capping or Trunking? I assume conduit or trunking is better for use because the cable can be pulled out will no damage, as wont be able to do this with capping. I assume The purpose of conduit is to protect the cable from damage from the sharp fragments from the wall chase.
@@ryanjackson3777 conduit also allows you to potentially upgrade it later
" Install 1-2 extra cables on the same route, even if not required or connected for now, you'll thank yourself later" - best bit of advice, it is painful having to re-run especially once everything is filled in and done neat
Also avoid water pipes, I've had some cables fail tests just because they were too close of a water pipe that had running water at that time.
The higher CAT spec cables are thicker than the older spec cables. In some cases this can be a pain as the permitted bend radius is larger.
Thank you for posting this, i live in a period property and wasn’t sure of the best way how to route my cables, this has been invaluable mate! Cheers
Glad it helped
I did my house quite a few years ago now. As this is a 1930s semi with floorboards, it wasn't too hard, and I have a cabinet in a cupboard in the garage. It was well worth the effort.
Since I usually live in single story homes, I like to run a single cable from the modem to a decent switch or small rack in a central coat closet,. I then put an appropriate diameter piece of conduit with brush grommets, through the ceiling in the closet into the attic for the ethernet cable runs to pass through. It takes much longer doing it that way but for me it's worth the extra time and effort. I try to plan ahead so I left pull lines going to the boxes so I could more easily add more later if need be.
I luckily have 8 PoE ports powering mesh wifi drops with ethernet backhaul around the house mounted to the ceiling in bedrooms, living room, and my shop in the garage. Along with a few 10gig fiber runs to the office and entertainment center and at least 1 Eth run to each room. Took a while but everything is hidden and tidy. Can always add a sub switch in a room, if needed later, but having everything in the walls already makes that a trivial adjustment.
Good video with some decent solutions for older homes and multi level dwellings.
In older houses like this that have solid brick walls, if they still have the original plaster on the walls, you'll usually find that you can dig quite deep directly into the inner corners of the room and a single cable will fit there, sometimes there is space for 2. This also means you can route the cable along the ceiling edge, and down the inner of a wall leaving you with minimal chasing out. It's not the best way to do it, but sometimes it does help things along.
Great video, very informative, i recently fitted a security light thanks to the help of your channel , i plan to change a single electric socket to a double socket next thanks to your videos, which are very helpful, to people who know what they want to do , but not absolutely sure how to do it themselves, your videos are a great help
One thing that appears to have been overlooked is the mention of bringing back all cables to a central point near the router so that you either a) connect the ports direct to the router if the number of sockets are =< the number of ports on the router (which in that case the socket next to the router should be a 4 gang to act as a patch panel), or if the number of sockets is > the number of ports that a switch will need to be fitted. This video is really more about how to install sockets and chase walls out than how to actually network the house.
@@srod2966 you don't need a rack, it's easier to network and futureproof using a switch at a central location, 1 chase(if needed) = up to 8 sockets, also just fyi all provider supplied homehubs are shit and just a p.s. i'm sending this on a network that I installed using a switch and i only had to chase 6 inches
@@srod2966Exactly. It’s always the geeks who don’t understand the audience. There’s plenty of dull videos out there for network design.
Don't be afraid of going outside the property. It's very easy to drill a hole from the inside to the outside. This lets you get the cable all the way around to the other side of the house, or indeed directly into the loft space where cables can come down from above in the upper rooms.
Just avoid doing it around the front of the house.
That’s my plan! And people should be aware of where asbestos could be also
Never drill inside out. Tape measure, measure twice drill once and outside to in every time
6mm drill all the way through, turning off the hammer before final breakthrough.
Then larger drill bit from either side. Easy and no blow-outs !
Yep - that's how I do it using cable for external installation and UV protected.
Easy-Peasy !
Good video about the practicalities of running the cable (the hard bit). Making terminations is the easy part! for any more than a couple of sockets I would start thinking about running the cables into a patch panel and putting up a network cabinet somewhere out of the way. That way you can hide everything neatly away behind lock and key.
Well said! Thanks
Great video, just about to buy a 1970s house too and will need to do this. This helps so much with me and the mrs working from home and not relying on the wifi
We did this while but renovating our house,so had the facility of running the cabling under floors etc.my pal who fitted it all doubled up on the cabling to each socket so that if any neede changing in future the replacement cabling was already there. Fitting it was as cheap as chips and absolutely worthwhile,ethernet is king.
I was looking yesterday the whole youtube for a video like this, I didnt know you also had this on your channel.
You re the best man thank you
Thanks and glad you found it
This is a gem, and a familiar Norfolk accent to boot, subscribed
😅😅😅
Mate, it's a really great video. I've been looking for something like this for quite a while. Your video was clear and easy to follow.
Great to hear! Thanks
Ethernet cables can be used for different applications, for example a TV connection, a phone connection or a PC connection. The connector on the router will be different according to the intended application at the other end of the cable. Since that initial designed application can change, plan to install a patch panel.
I would prefer to put conduit into the chased out channel for future development or to anticipate future accidents - wife hanging pictures and putting a nail through the ethernet cable.
Great video! You make it look very easy. Thank you so much to help us make things for ourselves.
It could be worth mentioning you can use switches to connect devices on the same floor and using the cable from the router up to each switch as the core link.
Great point! Thanks
Nice video, and if you're doing renovations, it's a good time to install Ethernet cables. Because I didn't fancy a lot of drilling and chasing, I went for a different approach. I used Cat 6 cable which is suitable for exterior use, and ran it from my router location around the outside wall of the house along the line of the guttering and back around to the area I wanted to terminate it. I installed a wifi mesh using wifi 7 for the rest of the house coverage. Each mesh unit has 4 Ethernet ports, which can be used to connect hard wire to. It runs at up to 10Gb so it's very fast.
Good video as it shows how easy it is. I would recommend you install shielded cable, I replaced all my old CAT5e cable with shielded CAT6 (specifically S/FTP) and found my network speeds improved by a noticeable percentage. I ran a cable up into my loft, connected it to a gigabit switch (industrial grade rated for high temperature operation) and then ran cables down into each bedroom.
For those that don’t know, the shield is essentially a foil barrier to prevent noise/interference from other services - the tester shown in this video has it shown as ‘G’ (probably for ground, but i can’t remember off hand if this is connected to earth?)
That sounds like either your Cat5e cable was bad, or not properly terminated. However Cat5e is fully rated for up to 2.5Gbps at the full 100m and you only need shielded cable if you are in an extremely noisy electrical environment. It should never be needed in a domestic property.
Always showing us how to save money by doing it ourselves thank you ❤
Fantastic. Clear in focus video, precise no waffle information AND without any irritating music. Thank You.
Can you do similar from the BT box outside the house? I have 2 lines coming in to my house the original was purely the phone line and is still in use though the outer cable cover is damaged where it comes through the wall. The newer cable was installed and runs all the way round the house exterior before entering an upstairs office and is no longer in use. I'd like to swap the cabling at the BT junction box outside the house.
I've used Powerline ethernet adapters & ethernet switches in the rooms i needed a network connection; this saved a lot of hassle with drilling, cutting and chasing wiring up and down the house. Works a treat.
They don't work for everyone. Depending on your house wiring, you may not get good performance from these. I also had a weird problem with data noise getting into an amplified speaker in the house. I installed network cables to every room in the house (except bathrooms of course).
When I switched to 1gig fibre broadband, I noticed the power line adapters absolutely cripple the speeds at devices using them. And this is a new property and router and powerline adapters are on the same floor/circuit. If you are on 100Mbps broadband you probably won’t notice it, but switch to 900Mbps and you will.
Hardwiring Ethernet is my plan.
Thanks for this video.
Powerline is slow. It can't carry gig+, speeds and can lose sync and drop out entirely. It's a last resort.
Powerline isn't very good at all and they are really quite lousy if the 2 sockets are on separate circuits.
Powerline adapters are hit and miss at best (even if they're on the same power circuit). I'd use them as a last resort where possible as they tend to be slow as well (if they do work). Its always better option to run cables where you can.
Another great video.
A general comment worth noting that data cables should be kept a minimum of 50mm away from mains cables. Induced noise can effect data transfer performance.
The ethernet cable connection tool has several names; IDC, Krone Punch Down Tool, Punch Down Tool - and probably many others
Kerchunker. For kerchunking.
Depending on the guide, it is advised to keep 300-400mm spacing between high and low voltage cables.
I don't believe that should be necessary. Cat6 and Cat5e cables use balanced pairs which are immune to common-mode interference that you might get from power cables.
Or just cross them at right angles, if you have to.
@@MrSwanleyExactly. It is hilarious seeing the amount of waffle that some come out with. The OP hasn’t got a clue what he’s talking about.
Very interesting thank you so much. Here in Australia we call the black box a r-out-er so was confused at first when you called it a route-er. Thank you for all the training you give us much appreciated.
I totally get why you didn’t cover it because it’s overkill for most.. but a much better way of doing this is run ALL the CAT cable back to a central point and install a patch bay and network switch. Then you can have point to point network anywhere or just stick it all into the switch and have everything connected to everything.
Lol this guy is brilliant, so easy and straightforward to understand 👍
I appreciate that!
I love the little yellow tool, I've always had a big clunky stripper or snips in a rush, that tool looks ace. As always, a damn good video Cameron, hope the old house is coming along nicely.
Thanks! Coming along well. Hope to have some updates very soon
You want a proper punch down tool to be honest, it trims your wires perfectly as you do it.
@@domhamai For a few cables, those small ones do OK, but I agree, if you are going to install more than a couple of cables, a proper punch-down tool with spring and release will do the job better, and cut the excess cable in one.
some skirting boards come with cable channels too, handy for horizontal runs in a room
Absolutely
Dude's a top g! Recommendations, instructions are well described and concise
I’ve been trying to think for months and easy way to get cabling into my loft. Now I “think” you’ve cracked it with the stack pipe boxing idea! Just need to check the exact location!
Regarding doing chases in such manner, I would have ran a cable hose from the socket up to the floor space above before filling that chase with bondo to cover it up, making it easy to replace the cables in case one goes back.
In Germany I don't run CAT5e or CAT6 cables any more as the prices don't differ too much from CAT7. So I'm installing future-proof CAT7 with Cat6A Keystone module which also deliver 10Gb Ethernet flawlessly over a longer distance - especially when you immure the cable into the wall.
I use CAT 8 cable in my office. Works a treat.
Great work. Couple notes though.
I would definitley go for a 4 gang minimum on the one closest to the wall. Even if you don't need 4 points round the house right now at least you could spur off from them.
Also, get some conduit in there in case you do want to run more wires or swap some out.
Finally, if you don't care too much about latency and bandwidth, but still want a wired connection you might want to try out powerline adapters first. They plug into the wall outlets then use your electric cables already in your walls to transmit signals.
Brilliant. Thankfully I had this done we had our house built.
4ra ka interface dekh ke dil garden garden ho jata hai 🌼 bohot hi cool hai
wouldnt it make more senst to add somesort of channel for the cable so whenever you need to replace it upgrade it or add cables you dont need to do all the wall demolition parts again ?
Nice video - exactly what I was looking for :) Also, do you have a fenland accent or am I miss-hearing!
4:20 completely threw me when you're talking about getting the box straight but its blatantly crooked on the screen. Then I realised the camera must be crooked 🤣
🙈
I'd approach it in 3 ways. 1. Can I use mesh/powerline? 2. use the fastest cable you can and always run an extra in case someone chews through it. 3. I'd ideally run a patch panel into the loft so you can then patch to other rooms from the loft if needed. Really nice video! If you do this a lot I'd have a push tool as it snips the ends for you.
Fascinating to see the process of installing cable, it's actually illegal to do it yourself here in Australia and it must be done by a registered cabler.
Even a simple Ethernet cable? Or is this only for electrical cable?
@@TheDIYGuy1 Yes even ethernet, if it's going in the walls, floor or ceiling it must be done by a professional.
@@doughmestic-blisshat’s hilarious. What muppet came up with that! What’s next you can’t change a light bulb unless you’re a professional? How about putting up curtain rails? Painting a wall? Government gone mad!
@@davideyres955 Yes I agree that we do tend to over regulate in Oz, however being an expat I also hate all the cables, conduits, pipes etc fixed to the surface of walls in the UK. Assuming the wall with the router is an outside wall, would it not be a cavity wall?? Not sure if house construction with double brick is different from Oz but here the cables would be "snaked" up the cavity & into the roof/attic space without any drilling or chasing.
Thanks for making me a network tech in 15 minutes!
Chimneys are also a good option for running cables. In my house I don't use the chimney as there is not real fire, but it's been useful to run HDMI cables and network cables between ground floor and upper floors and the loft.
PS - Well done for explaining all of that in 15 minutes. Some folk waffle on and on, you're so focused and concise!
"I recommend you use easyfill " no shit haha
In all seriousness, great vid and very informative.
I made the mistake by not checking the cable before I buried it. I must have damaged the ends when feeding through some noggins. Got away with just replacing the ends , wife was livid with all the holes haha
I used to install many home network systems with cables going back to an AV/IT rack.
However, many homeowners weren’t installed in using it unless for static hard-wired devices such as smart TVs, printers or NASs. Even laptops they always preferred to use wi-fi. Equally, I’ve had clients who insist on WAPs that can handle their incoming bandwidth. I.e, if they’re paying for 300MBs they want that through their wi-fi
Unfortunately wifi speeds are usually bottlenecked by the router & effected by the composition of the walls. Current TV adverts by several companies in the UK for “the nations fastest wifi” are carefully worded & unprovable.
Thank you very much for the helpful video. I was worried about chasing the cable in the walls as it seemed daunting. I ended up running them around the outside of the house instead. Will certainly use your method once I get around to decorating front room
You're welcome!
Running then outside will eventually fail unless you used external grade as ordinary cat5/6 cable is porous.
Great channel and. Finally some 1 can explain how to do it properly 😊😊
I find ur videos brilliant I love doing my house my self all ur video always come in handy to watch make notes from 👍
Glad you like them!
I’m moving into a new house that has a socket near where the fibre comes in and a socket in the living room other than plugging my router into the socket in the living room and seeing if it’s connected is there any other way I can tell if they are connected
thats amazing, now I feel better drilling one small hole in plaster wall for running cables
Really well explained thanks boss!
Really informative. I would love to if you could give some ideas on how to measure and correctly cut your cables so that you don't waste too much. Thanks
If your going to do all that effort as opposed to Ethernet over mains, I would bring all the cat 6 ports back to a patch panel in a cupboard somewhere and use an ethernet switch. Remember cat 5/6 can also be used for phones & other low voltage signals , so if you have a main BT socket you can run that back to your patch panel then have the phone in whichever room you wish. also get a proper punch down tool. Cuts the cables as you install them into the socket / patch panel. And just to be clear NEVER JOIN THE CAT 5 CABLES WITH BLOCKS / WIRE NUTS / WIRE CONNECTORS. The number of times I've had to deal with structured cabling installed by electricians who think because it has an electrical connection it is fine...
Ethernet over mains has to be treated as a last option... I'd much rather do what this guy is doing
@@CGRealStudiospoint still stands to run everything back to a central location.
Yeh for cameras too. Wireless cameras in a larger house are dodgy as.
Doesn't ethernet over mains have a 10mbs limit compared to cat6 which has a 1000mbs limit?
And most ISPs start at about 30mbs?
@@SaintGerbilUK CAT 6 supports up to 10Gbase-t up to 50m in length. Depending on your luck you might be able to get 5Gbase-t up to 100m, but 2.5G and 1000base-t should be pretty safe at 50-100m.
You should use some conduit on your wall run so future work to the cabling, running extra cable or upgrading what’s there etc is possible and easy.
I’d also advise you to run two cables even if you only plan on using one. Network cable is cheap and you’ve done all the hard work already.
Perhaps you did, but it's not clear in the video. But you should have used conduit pipe in the space you made for the chase to run the cable through. It means that if ever you need to change the cable (For example if you wanted to change Cat6 to a new standard) you can just pull the cable through. You've made it a tougher job for yourself just sticking the cable into the wall with filler.
Yep 20mm oval conduit
@@TheDIYGuy1 Ignore me then :)
@dougaldouglas8842 protection the cable in the wall in any sort of conduit, capping etc is not obligatory in the UK and this is a UK video, so be careful of miss leading comments.
"Perhaps you did"... "You've made it a tougher job". That escalated quickly.
@@stevenskillern1477
I've always wondered and your comment prompted me to look it up.
It's a bit of a grey area as it's sort of implied but I have also always realised ~ like the yellow tape put above cables in the ground ~ that capping doesn't offer perfect protection from piercing.
The metal capping can still be overcome by the oomph of a nail gun apparently and of course the plastic version would only stop the most diligent driller if he were lucky enough to hear the slight difference in sound in the milliseconds before the drill passed through it into the cables.
Apparently the best protection that capping offers is from the new plaster's chemical make-up eating into the wires' insulation over time.
The benefit of capping is at best as a poor version of trunking allowing the pulling through of cables themselves.
Hi pal. Is the purpose of this video for your smart tv and laptops/computers and other WiFi hub boxes if you have weak WiFi connections.?
Yes
Well I found this interesting. Nicely presented.
Very informative, and the easy part I wanted to know is at 3.42, I know it was obvious, but sometimes I doubt what appears to be the logical answer, ha ha :) How to connect the router to the new wall jack, no laughing please :) Cheers buddy, great video, have subscribed.
Good to see Adam Peaty’s found a new line of work since he quit competitive swimming 👍
could you have used the same channel as the power that you ran the other day? it is very close? That is isf you had planned it all out togther...Or would the leectricity cause issues with the signal?
Always run power and data separately. Electricity can cause interference.
Do you have a link for the yellow cable sheering tool used? Thanks 👍🏼
Great video. 👏🙏
When you were drilling the hole from the chase in the downstairs wall into the floor space above with the long drill bit, what precautions had you taken to make sure you didn't go through a pipe or cable in the floor above? Was it just a visual inspection of the area from upstairs prior to drilling?
Many thanks for the fantastic, clear and helpful content!
Thanks for this video, complete newbie but wanting to sort out house out for this
If you already have coax aerial sockets throughout your house then it's a lot less hassle to use MoCA adapters to get wired ethernet network connections everywhere 👍
Not particularly easy to get in the UK. Any you would recommend?
Just like power line adapters these should really be a last resort.
So cool, memories from my networking days; tbf I was trunking my new PC to my TV to tidy up the cables and cat6ing my other half's PC did pop in my head, currently it's running a loose cable round the back of the sofa.🤔✌
If I had the tools and knowledge 5 years ago when I bought my 1930s flat I would of trid this. My solution ended up being using a flat 5e cable and routing it along the skirtings and tucking it into the carpet because I'm a classy guy. Far from ideal but this is a great solution especially as home plugs are not great and old wiring isn't ideal either
Is it ok to drill through a pillar without considering any structuaral damage? Also the ceiling most likely is asbestos ceiling right?
So on a terrace house refurb, u put lan into every room? Can u put the wire/box from the internet co somewhere else like in the utility room?
Really helpful video man.. Do you need to run a separate cable for each outlet or you can loop them out?
Yes, one cable per device/socket, no daisy chaining
Every cable needs to run back to the router. It's not a ring circuit.
Great video , but how do you confidently deal with the Floor upstairs when its not planks for flooring, but those large sheets of mdf type boards ? it means almost lifting a whole 8x4 sheet ??????
Just a note for anyone taking on this project. Do not run cat 5e cable along side mains power cable or through holes in joists that contain mains cables. a 50mm gap between the cables is required.
The man can do wrong!! Great video ❤
Should always run 2 cables even if it is only for one port at the time, you never know if it might fail in future and you don't want to re-do the wall chasing
Would it not make more sense, if you have to chase the wall to run conduit so you have a nice easy route incase you need to run anything else? Also I noticed you ran the cables separately to the same location, wouldn’t it make more sense to have 2 runs and tape them together? Basically running both cables in one run
The downside to taping cables together, especially if you run them in a conduit rather that simply buried in a wall, is that at some point you may need to change one of them. I wired out house for network when we were moving in, 10 yrs down the road, things change and I needed to repurpose a cable that was routed from up near the loft to the cellar. Rather than run a whole new cable, I was rerouting the final 5m of it. The problem I hit was I had been "tidy" and taped the 2 cables together through the conduit. Tape ends and pull together, YES, tape along the length, I would avoid.
We have 4 BT HomeHub6 discs around our home, which provide wifi perfectly around the house through thick walls of our 200+yr old property over 40 metres, cabling seems like overkill
I like your videos, very practical.
I would recommend having both wired and wifi in your home if you can.
I would recommend a wifi mesh system, which will give you the effect of a single WiFi throughout your home. This will give you good WiFi speeds too even without a wired network.
If you have cabled network in your house then even better as you can get a Mesh system that supports "Backhaul" as the Mesh devices will offer full speed WiFi and route the traffic down the wired network rather than across the wifi mesh.
The latest Mesh systems use WiFi 6E, which lets them transmit traffic through the mesh even faster than your wired network.
Other advantages would be if you are going Smart Home and IOT things and getting a Mesh system that support that.
Don't use mesh systems if you are putting all the effort into hardwiring. I'd recommend using poe wireless access points. Mesh systems are poor in my experience.
@theEnjoyed this, well done. The only thing I would have recommended would be resessed cable ducting in the channel chase you made. This would then give you a degree of future proofing if you ever need to replace the cables, or add new ones.
Done ✅, 20mm oval conduit inside chase
@@TheDIYGuy1 ahh missed that, thanks
If you're planning on pulling data cables through conduit you'll need to avoid any sharp bends, and keep the tension below 25 lbs, otherwise you risk damaging the transmission qualities of the cable.
Very useful information mate!
Another great video Thanks You make it look so easy!
What is the best way to do this if you need more than 2 upstairs? Is there a way of having multiple wires coming off of the 2-socket box or would it be to have some sort of splitter/network box upstairs or can the sockets be daisy-chained?
You have 2 main options:
You can run as many cables as you need and install a wall plate that has that number of ports. If you're already going through the trouble of running data cables to a location, this may be a better option.
If you don't want to or can't run that many cables, the next best thing would be to install a network switch. In short, you can think of a switch as a power strip where you can plug in multiple ethernet connections to a single box. You can buy simple switches that only have 4 ports to larger ones that have 48 ports.
You should have mentioned the type of cable. You should be using solid core for fixed installation. The problem with a lot of installation is that it can work but may well be introducing a lot of noise which will mean lots of errors and retransmits and therefore poorer performance. The specs for running cables are to provide a guaranteed performance which can only really be ascertained with a really expensive certifier.
It will probably be fine in short run situations but people may well not know.
He did but recommended ca5e or cat6..Complete minimum should be cat6 preferably cat6a
@@triplexdreadhe means stranded or solid core cable. Solid core structural cable should be used for your runs whereas stranded is better for connecting your devices to the wall socket.
@@domhamai The only reason for using solid core over stranded for fixed installations is cost. You can happily use stranded if you want it's covered in the IEE 802.3 Ethernet specifications and it does have some advantages for retro fitting as it is easier to run being more flexible. However you do need to make sure that your wall plates and patch panels are suitable for use with stranded cable as not all are.
Dunno if you mentioned it or not, but was there some kind of channel in that chase going up to the top floor? Rather than bogging in your cable, you could have a plastic channel in case you later decide to run another cable through it, or replace/upgrade the cat-5e cable.
Great video! I've subscribed.
Those Sky boxes are a PITA, we had a bunch of Sky boxes operating in a mesh network which had totally buggered our network because the Sky kit doesn't play nice with the non-Sky gear. Wired the bloody things together and disabled the WiFi/meshing on them and voila, no problems, perfect.
Hiya, I want to start getting some tools together for renovations. I don't own a drill currently. If I buy an SDS drill can I use that for all drilling (e.g. normal holes for putting up the likes of curtain poles etc) or do I need to buy a hammer drill for that purpose?
SDS drills are typically used for heavy-duty drilling into materials such as brick, stone, concrete and other types of masonry. An SDS drill and a hammer drill are very similar. They both do the same job, but an SDS drill does it better.
For a DIYer I would recommend a combi drill to start. It's basically a drill, hammer drill and screw driver all in one. As you progress with your renovations you might want to buy an SDS drill for drilling into concrete or stone.
I've run weatherproof Cat 7 ethernet cables from my virgin hub via a ethernet switch to the outside, up to our bedroom and around the side of the house to our sons room. Another switch box means his Xbox and laptop aren't reliant on iffy Wifi that far from the hub (it was actually non existent) and a third is in our room. Our TV boxes use ethernet which means we have a good signal where we need it most. It also means that if the WiFi dies we still have the telly and laptops. However with the advent of mesh networks I've gone one step further. I've installed three eero mesh pods so far with two being backhauled and I'm waiting for a fourth which will also be wired. This will completely cover our house in WiFi as three of the four pods are hard wired. My recommendation is to disable the WiFi on your ISP router and put it in modem mode. That stops any signal clashes and now we have every device that has an ethernet socket hardwired and all the devices such as our phones, Hive thermostat and echo devices that are wifi only have a full strong signal. Then there's the speed issue. We now have the proper speed from our ISP that we pay for whether wired or wireless.
I like what you did and I find it fascinating but in reality it's either a job for when a property is empty and being refurbished or if you have a very understanding partner. I have neither 😂
Thank you so much for uploading the video. Very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
I was lucky, my house is of an era and 'executive' grade it had antenna sockets in all bedrooms. No one uses terrestrial now, the points were redundant so I just used the old coax as pulls (loose as under dry lining) for cat6 cables and replaced the antenna faceplates with ethernet plates. Then put a network switch in the loft. I you need more connections in the bedroom you can use a local mini switch
Not that it matters too much from a safety point of view with data cable, but have you run them in a prescribed cable zone?
Your right in saying that it doesn’t matter but yes, it is within 150mm from where the walls meet
@@TheDIYGuy1 although it kind of matters when you fit a shelf to the wall and your network stops working. 😂
Lol that is true!
There is a lot missing from this video, especially a basic network diagram showing how you would use a network switch to connect the sockets together. In most cases, using a switch will greatly simplify the install and reduce the amount of cable needed. In my case, I put the switch in the loft and ran the cables down to the upper floor rooms using the gap in the stud wall. Only a single cable joined the router to the loftspace, which I did by going through the outside wall and up the back of the drain pipe into the soffit (and therefore, loft space). The main cable between the router and loft switch is therefore easily replacable should it ever needed to be upgraded. I also put cables in conduit where possible and left in a length of strong string (builders line) in case I want to pull any addtional cables through them in the future (much cheaper than putting in a second CAT6 cable as others have suggested).
It's also helpful to know furniture placement where you can hide cable if need be. I agree that a switch is the way to go. It is way easier. I have my cable modem (one I purchased not rented) that connects to a PFSense firewall/router and that goes to a switch that connects the rest of the house.
Great idea, but you should have used a pvc conduit pipes inside the wall plastering to make cables easy slide or to replace cables when you have to
Great video, just a quick question, I know nothing about this sort of stuff especially drilling. If you are using the test for seeing if there is wires/pipes behind the wall, is it definitely a case where there wont be wires or pipe on the other side? Thanks
Hi. Great videos mate. Question, I need to do a re-wire and network cables also. Would I do 1 big chase and put all cables in same chase? Or 2 chases, 1 for electrical and 1 for Ethernet? Cheers.
Worth bearing in mind that Cat6 is less tolerant of bends than Cat5e is. If you have bends/corners with a radius any tighter than a tennis ball it can impact the performance of the cable. And also regardless of whether you go Cat6 or 5e, get the decent stuff at least 24AWG don't go for the cheap rubbish with crappy thin copper like 28AWG.
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Excellent video every helpful.. What was the reason to use a 2 Ethernet wall socket when you used only one? Can the other one also be wired up tonconnect another device?
Great video very informative and helpful. Would like to see how to run power to a garden shed/ workshop