This video is like seeing an artist create a piece of art. I will never build a rack system like that, but I saw the entire video and enjoyed every second of it.
Not only is this a fantastic video due to the straight forward and simple visuals partnered with a well worded Voice over, but it also has one of the best thumbnails ive seen so far!
Outstanding work demonstrated in this video. Earned a like and a sub. I am in the process of something similar and a lot of the devices you used I have never seen. Thanks so much. I started my tech journey with an IBM PC with 8088 and 64K of RAM and 2 Floppy Drives back in the mid 80's. Been running Linux for 10-15 years and doing DIY networks. Kids at church tell me I know way too much technology for my age! :) I was 76 in November 2023. Best Regards, Jim
As a retired network engineer, I think is worth mentioning that you should never use plastic cable ties on data cables. Far too many people use them and it hurts in the long run. The reason is that they distort the carefully engineered separation between the individual wires within the cables, thus causing signal distortion or cross talk. Always use velcro like this guy used. You'll be much happier in the long run. Not to mention how much easier it is when (not if) you have to add or replace a cable.
Former DC technician for a multi billion dollar Oil and Gas company and now system admin who still does a lot of cabling, 1000% zip ties can go die in a fire. Personally I wouldn't worry about zip-ties causing distortions or cross talk (except for maybe fiber when it comes to distortions) but because its not very practical in a production enviroment and you're more likely to damage or cut a cable when its zip-tied, not to mention taking way longer to make any small runs. Fact of the matter is the average person is and will be running new cables or replacing them over the years and you are just as likely to accidently snip a line or damage it because there is so little give or working space in a rack or conduit.
Things I learned from plastic cable ties 1) They cut you good if the cable ties are not properly cut. 2) Using those bastards are prone to damage the cables. (I saw from my workmates) 3) They damage the cables from being tightened much. 4) NOT REUSABLE. ALWAYS USE VELCRO.
I had mine at home, with 48 ports, installed with a wall mounted patch panel so that all the wires would remain hidden inside the wall. The only wires that you could see if you looked behind the switch, are the short 1 foot runs from the patch panel to the switch. It looks amazing! No need for a wire snake to pop out of a wall or ceiling.
You deserve a thousand greetings and appreciation, the best teacher. May the Most Gracious protect you and take care of you. Thank you, thank you, thank you.🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍👍👍🌹🌷🌻
thats a very clean install.. when i designed and built my home network for our new house and one day the wall mount rack i ordered arrive, my wife immediately told me that she didn't want to see that hideous thing hanging on her walls i opted for an in-between studs with flush cover enclosure. very limited for what i needed but i made it work.
Here's a tip for when you install gear that's heavier than what you installed. Some gear is heavy enough that it takes two (or more) hands to install. The way to deal with that is to put in a couple of screws, partly screwed in, just below where the bottom edge of the equipment will be. Then you can rest the equipment on the screws, when you start driving in the mounting screws. You just have to hold up one end, while putting it's screw in and then the other end. I have seen two guys trying to mount something, getting in each other's way, when my trick would have made it a lot easier for just one of them to do the job. BTW, years ago, when I was a computer tech, working on the old mini computers, it would sometimes take 3 guys to mount something like a tape drive, 2 to hold it and 1 to drive in the screws. Or on some CPU or disk drive chassis, two guys to hold the equipment, while the 3rd positions the sliding rails, so the equipment can sit on it. One disk drive I used to swap out required a fork lift to raise and lower it.
Thank you so much for this. I'm at this point of organizing a home rack with quite a few dell poweredge servers plus a litany of other things in it. It's been a mess of cable for far too long. Just looking at the mess of cable seemed too overwhelming to approach cable managing, but I finally decided to just do it this weekend. Your video helped quell most of my anxiety about diving into that mess of cables.
Great video, loved it. TCI, you should add the Cable Comb to your list of item's used. Made by Jonard Tools. They make two models, the CCB-25 that accommodates cables up to 1/4" (6.35mm) in diameter, this is the version he was using in the video. Or the CCB-34 that will handle cables up to .36" (9.14mm) in diameter. If you're pulling 6a, even unshielded like I'm am, you'll need the CCB-34. Love watching a professional do their thing.
Skip the 2U cable manager IMO if you have the capacity for a 2nd patch panel put one above and below the switch that are 12 Por 24P and split the ports top to bottom with 3in. Keeps things nice a clean and easy to trace, granted for a tiny rack like this its not always the case. In larger racks though I prefer slightly longer runs and then split the switch left to right with cables on each side, that way you have flexibility to shuffle things in the rack without having buy new cable. Personal tastes aside though its not a bad little wall rack, for every hundred or thousand cabling jobs I see maybe one or two of them are actually this clean and super happy to see you use Velcro and not zipties.
Is it possible you put the rack shelf upside down? I put mine the other way so things sit on top, can't fall out, and don't take up more space than they should.
Am subscribed i have the notifications set to all ,you doing a great and a wonderful job, continue making this great videos. You can bet i will always watch.
in my personal preference, if i got a 24-port switch that doesn't line up well, i will get two unloaded patch panels and put the switch in the middle and use 6" patch cables anyway. it takes one less rack unit and lets me upgrade the switch if i need more than 24.
For the cyberpower surge protector. SHould that be straight to the outlet or can you use a UPS. I thought you shouldn't plut a big surge protector into a UPS. Can you recommend one. I already have an APC ups for my rack but the whole thing is a mess. Thanks!
The power outlets in a rack are usually not a surge protector, but a PDU. The PDU that goes into a rack in meant to have a battery backup. If you are choosing a product, make sure it has no surge function and you'll be okay.
Before you pull a cable somewhere, write on both ends of it with a sharpie or a sticker label, that way you know which is which :). If not available, you'll have to put a tone generator on each line and count them manually after you've done the install.
Hi, May I have the list of all equipments that you installed in your video with models please . which I need for my office network. and also the link of website that I want to order it. Thanks for your nice installation that was very helpful.
My ISP locally usually sends a plain modem, it wouldn't have had any router functions built in. I know other ISPs give out different devices, so you may not need a router of your own in many cases.
ok, so I strongly disapproved of his choice of switch when I saw it was TP-Link but then I noticed a Mikrotik box and he redeemed himself. The 2U cable management is clean and a great choice. Overall... approval rating 9 /10. VERY clean and nice job.... I hope you'll consider a Mikrotik CRS replacement for the only mistake you made! ;)
Hello, good video! @ 03:04 when you put your cables in the patch panel, do you know where each cable goes in your house or you'll figure it out later? Thanks for the video, I plan to do this in my house soon, as fiber internet should arrive soon I hope.
Normally the faceplates around the house that these cables go to would have a label stickered to them and the number on the label should match the port number on the panel, so usually 1 through 24.
@@tciproductions Ok thanks for the answer, sorry but still something I don't get. In the video you color code ports 23 and 24 red because you will use them for wifi (wifi access points I imagine). How do you know these 2 cables go where you want your wifi ? Do you also number the cables 1 - 24 matching the faceplates they are connected to? Sorry if it's a dumb question and thank you.
@@xurok Sure thing. When you take a wire from the box and run it to the spot you want something, you would want to write on it with a sharpie or labeller and put what number it is. So your first cable is 1, and so on until 24. Then, when connecting things to the panel, the panel is pre-numbered 1-24, so you take the cable you labelled 1 and terminate it on port 1, and so on. So if I had put my wifi into position and it was cable numbered 23 and 24, I put those on the last two spots of my panel. I try to put my wifi all together numerically if I can.
@@yellowrose0910 LOL, I had to go back and watch a couple of minutes to see what triggered your OCD. Cage screws not the same on both sides, you, triggered me too.
What is the best way to ensure you have enough cable after you cut the network cable for termination so it lines up nice and neat back to the patch panel after you terminate the wire? Like how do you know how much cable to cut off so you know you have enough cable when the terminated wire goes into the panel? Tips and or rules of thumb?
When the cable is poked through the panel like I show here, I mark a line on the jacket where the cable enters the panel from the back side. I then pull the cable out of the panel and strip about 1.5 inches from that black line, once a keystone is on it, should fit just right.
Apologies if I missed it, what length cable are you using between the patch panel and switch? Specific brand / set recommend? Thank you for the videos!
I try to use the 2 foot lengths when I am working with a cable manager, it keeps the slack nice and loose. Any brand is fine, but I like the slim cords if I can find them.
Do you have a method running patch cables so you can see which sw ports they connect to? I see the way you did it where I work and with multi switch racks it’s a jungle
I have a video planned on this, however I would broadly say that I patch them in the nicest way I can without any care as to which switch port they end up on. I try to always use a managed switch, and with that, I can usually tell which PC is connected where without needing to match the switch port to the panel port numerically. So many switches number their ports in a weird way that makes it look awful when patched.
I did it on purpose because I hate the little lip that's on the end of the shelf, and I didn't mind giving up a 1U slot there. In other vids I talk about it, when I did this one I totally spaced.
@@tciproductions ah, I did think it could be the lip. Nice idea to stop things falling out, but in reality gets in the way of neatly connecting cables, and if the lip is too big getting your gear in and out, I guess?
For all my personal/friends & family work, like to use the thin cat6/6a patch cables now as they are so much easier to work with and take up less space. I use them for all my patch cable/non-structural wiring now (where I'm not using DAC's or fiber). Though at my home it is in a media panel and I took out the patch panel as I found it added no value, and took up a lot of very limited space, vs just terminating the cables and plugging them directly into the switch (the boot is color coded and labeled so I can know where it goes a glance).
The thin cables are the way to go. The cable management box is useless for a home install, especially when you consider how cheap, thin, and easy to work with those thin patch cables are.
The problem with directly terminating the wires instead of using a patch panel, is that the structural wiring is not suitable for repeated bending and unbending as it will damage and eventually snap off the solid cores inside the wires. Patch cables use stranded wires that can withstand a lot more bends than solid core wires.
You'll have to determine for yourself sometimes - I like my the distance to put the rack at about eye level for me, but you could set up real high against the ceiling so that you can use the space below it for other purposes. Whatever feels comfortable to you. The cable slack I usually put up in the ceiling, I only have it visible in the rack here because I wanted to include it in the shot. If your ceiling isn't readily accessible then 1-2 loops near your rack, for a total of 3 to 5 feet of length is fine for most purposes.
@ronaldnaeyaert3653 NIC/Switch HW Designer here. It's not always easy to lay out the lanes for a PHY to Port connection to always be consistent. Signal Integrity issues can be rampant in switches. Often, signal integrity constraints require us to keep loss at a minimum to accommodate for the electrical loss incurred on the trace. This results in a compromise in what is eventually decided for a port layout. I could see how a single row of 24 ports would cause a whole slieu of possible signal integrity issues depending on the board design.
@@ronaldnaeyaert3653I hear you. But do understand that the alternative is performance issues in the switch (crosstalk, bit errors, link drops, etc) Always easier said than done 🙂
It's very neat and clean. My server room was a quite mess. One of my top priorities now is to rewire and terminate the cat5/cat6 cables properly. I am waiting for some of the tools to do that. Your video does help a lot.
Are the initial 24 ethernet cables just connected to any of the 24 ports on the patch panel or are they numbered so that you know which device they will ultimately connect to ?
If nothing else I take a sharpie and label the cables, yes. You'd label both ends to match the patch panel port they are going to, and then use a proper label printer to attach a label to the faceplate once you were done.
I usually write on them with a sharpie before I pull them over to where my wifi will be, that way I can read the note afterwards and already be sure I have the right ones.
Question. My house was a new build and it was wired with CAT5e cables to every room. The cables are not terminated in the box in my closet. Do I need to do this or can I just terminate the cables and plug them straight into the router?
Nah, you can go directly to RJ's if that is easier for you. Just leave a little length so you can adjust it later to something else if you change your mind later.
@@tciproductions thank you. I assumed I could do that. I only need it for four cables as there are only 4 that lead to the rooms and the living room. Just wasn't sure if it would work or if I needed to do all this.
The usual Leviton style keystones that most plates accept fit the panel just fine. I have mixed and matched brands of keystones in the same panel more than once. ICC High Density Keystones, Everest, and Leviton are the main ones I use but the generic monoprice ones fit it as well.
hy. how do you choose the right rack ,why you dont use the holles on the rack ;do you have any videos about airflow on the rack and how to install the right way the network components , what is the best way to make corect a network spaghettti,can you recomand some books for cabel management.thanks
Looks great. Wish I had (the need) for something like that at my own home. I didn't hear you explain why you installed the shelf upside down. Surely, there's a reason. 😉
@@HarmonicaMustangIn this configuration it takes up 2u space. One could have embrace the limitation and install it one u lover but right side up. Still good access and no wasted space between it and power distribution unit.
My opinion - make all your switches PoE on every port, and patch it all in. You will be glad you did later, every single small biz that installed a 16 port PoE and then a 24 port gig switch without PoE ended up replacing both of them with a 48 port PoE switch, a costly upgrade. If you can, just do it all PoE from the start, in 24 port switches, which I think are the best bang for the buck at around $350-$450 per, two of them is cheaper than a single 48 port. As the days roll on, all kinds of stuff will be PoE-powered and you'll never have enough ports.
This is awesome! Can you do a video on home security cameras without internet? I'm talking about an in home system that is managed using software on a home computer and not some paid service.
hello sir, where can I learn all the cable management and other secret method that can make my work efficient and make the cable neat and scalabe in the future?
If you precut your velcro and wrap them at the start of the trunk of the cable, all you do is just slide the velcro down so your not having to hold the cable or mess with cutting in the middle of combing.
I'm about to run conduits through the basement in my house for a Cat6 install. I know that rack installs typically have the cables just coming out of the wall on the rack side, but I've been thinking about terminating them in a wall panel and then patching to my rack. I think it'll be good for the eventual resale of the home, since the next owners will most likely just use a standard consumer switch. Do you have any thoughts on this?
I agree it will help the resale, at least if the new owners are slightly interested in home networks, which are good odds. I can't speak to the wall panel but if its a patch panel and just a shelf (no rack) then I think that is perfectly fine. A whole lot of homes I visit do it that way.
Not really, normally your cables are labeled, I don't see that here, so you don't know where the other end comes out? good luck with testing, no strain relief on the patch panel? nice but no cigar.
Yeah, a clean setup. I personally would not use a Neat patch system because it needs a lot of rack space and I usually work with full cabinets where patch cables are guided to the side. Doing a good cable drop is what not only makes the look of a good cabinet but also ensures that you have room for service years later. I would also not go for the patch panel, switch, patch panel, switch, etc. configuration because switches are often very long and the cable drop and the back of the switch are in each others way. So I keep the patch panel at the top (starting with fiber and after that all Cat. 7 panel. Switches and other active devices below that. Usually I start with one patch panel, then one cable routing panel, then two patch panel, one cable routing panel, two patch panel, etc. Assuming everything is 1U high. And as important as the cable droop at the back, is the use of patch cable with the appropriate length. Nothing lets a rack look more messy than too long and too short cables.
hey great video and i was hoping if anyone can tell me if the TrendNet 24 Port Blank Keystone Panel can be used in navepoint racks ? there is a 1 inch deference in the dimension between the panel and the rack and i dont know if thats a problem
I am curious, why does one need this many cables for home usage? Do people usually have a lan cable to each room? I looks very cool, so I woud like to know the purpose.
In some of the high end houses I have worked on, we've run 2 LAN cables to a faceplate in each room, and then a few into ceilings for Wifi, and a few exterior for cameras. It gets up to 15+ wires pretty quickly. Usually the homeowner is a techie kind of person for it to turn out that way.
That majestic hair flying around, you are the "PC Master Race" logo! Thanks for the video, I learned a lot, I'm just sad that I can't get those "NeatPatch" boxes here in Belgium... :(
I gotta enjoy the hair before its all gone :) I searched for something that would ship to Belgium, NeatPatch might be out, but Anixter does ship there, and this item is close - no deep back, but the rest is good: www.anixter.com/en_us/products/30339-719/CHATSWORTH-PRODUCTS-%28CPI%29/Rack-and-Cabinet-Cable-Managers/p/267511
I searched Amazon for "Oversized Mousepad" and "LCARS" and many variations came up, so I grabbed a few for our desks. Its not bad, they could be better on close inspection :)
I got this video in my recommended, I always love to see cable management. However, I have little experience networking besides setting up an managed switch and updating my router firmware. So I wonder, what situation requires 34 Ethernet ports? My router has around 9 ports, enough for me. What internet speed do you have that can support 34 ports? Are you planning on having a LAN party every Saturday?
There's other commenters that discussed it, but 2 wires to each outlet in a house is standard, so in a 3 bedroom with the entertainment center factored in, that's 8 wires, then perhaps a couple APs, that's 10, then you might have some cameras set up, that's whatever. Factor in a couple of exterior spots for who knows what, maybe something in the garage if you have one, and you'll get close to filling up a 24 port panel pretty quickly. It depends entirely on your level of interest and use of course. Could always just set up two APs and call it done, but where's the fun in that?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
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This video is like seeing an artist create a piece of art.
I will never build a rack system like that, but I saw the entire video and enjoyed every second of it.
Thank you for the kind words!
Can you please share what you did on the ceiling.@tciproductions
Think positive, just saying
Not only is this a fantastic video due to the straight forward and simple visuals partnered with a well worded Voice over, but it also has one of the best thumbnails ive seen so far!
Outstanding work demonstrated in this video. Earned a like and a sub. I am in the process of something similar and a lot of the devices you used I have never seen. Thanks so much. I started my tech journey with an IBM PC with 8088 and 64K of RAM and 2 Floppy Drives back in the mid 80's. Been running Linux for 10-15 years and doing DIY networks. Kids at church tell me I know way too much technology for my age! :) I was 76 in November 2023. Best Regards, Jim
As a retired network engineer, I think is worth mentioning that you should never use plastic cable ties on data cables. Far too many people use them and it hurts in the long run. The reason is that they distort the carefully engineered separation between the individual wires within the cables, thus causing signal distortion or cross talk. Always use velcro like this guy used. You'll be much happier in the long run. Not to mention how much easier it is when (not if) you have to add or replace a cable.
Former DC technician for a multi billion dollar Oil and Gas company and now system admin who still does a lot of cabling, 1000% zip ties can go die in a fire. Personally I wouldn't worry about zip-ties causing distortions or cross talk (except for maybe fiber when it comes to distortions) but because its not very practical in a production enviroment and you're more likely to damage or cut a cable when its zip-tied, not to mention taking way longer to make any small runs.
Fact of the matter is the average person is and will be running new cables or replacing them over the years and you are just as likely to accidently snip a line or damage it because there is so little give or working space in a rack or conduit.
Things I learned from plastic cable ties
1) They cut you good if the cable ties are not properly cut.
2) Using those bastards are prone to damage the cables. (I saw from my workmates)
3) They damage the cables from being tightened much.
4) NOT REUSABLE.
ALWAYS USE VELCRO.
How tight are you people sinching down zips? 😂 It only needs to hold the bundle in place.
MAN WITH LONG TAIL GIVE EXCELLENT ADVICES THANKS BE TO YOU
I had mine at home, with 48 ports, installed with a wall mounted patch panel so that all the wires would remain hidden inside the wall. The only wires that you could see if you looked behind the switch, are the short 1 foot runs from the patch panel to the switch. It looks amazing! No need for a wire snake to pop out of a wall or ceiling.
I wanted to show the concept in the video of having some spare slack, but tucking it out of the way usually looks a whole lot better for sure.
Nicely done and the video wasn’t any longer than it needed to be, was too the point without being dry. Thank you!
You deserve a thousand greetings and appreciation, the best teacher. May the Most Gracious protect you and take care of you. Thank you, thank you, thank you.🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍👍👍🌹🌷🌻
your cables are aligned almost as perfectly as your hair. true professional at work and in private.
Really helpful video for a "newbie" trying to understand how to build a home system for a new construction house...thanks for putting this together!
You setup is very simple and neat!!!
thats a very clean install..
when i designed and built my home network for our new house and one day the wall mount rack i ordered arrive, my wife immediately told me that she didn't want to see that hideous thing hanging on her walls
i opted for an in-between studs with flush cover enclosure. very limited for what i needed but i made it work.
Those are so tough to do well. If I ever manage to make one not look like garbage I will post about it for sure.
Here's a tip for when you install gear that's heavier than what you installed. Some gear is heavy enough that it takes two (or more) hands to install. The way to deal with that is to put in a couple of screws, partly screwed in, just below where the bottom edge of the equipment will be. Then you can rest the equipment on the screws, when you start driving in the mounting screws. You just have to hold up one end, while putting it's screw in and then the other end. I have seen two guys trying to mount something, getting in each other's way, when my trick would have made it a lot easier for just one of them to do the job.
BTW, years ago, when I was a computer tech, working on the old mini computers, it would sometimes take 3 guys to mount something like a tape drive, 2 to hold it and 1 to drive in the screws. Or on some CPU or disk drive chassis, two guys to hold the equipment, while the 3rd positions the sliding rails, so the equipment can sit on it. One disk drive I used to swap out required a fork lift to raise and lower it.
This is an outstanding tip! Thank you!
Thank you so much for this. I'm at this point of organizing a home rack with quite a few dell poweredge servers plus a litany of other things in it. It's been a mess of cable for far too long. Just looking at the mess of cable seemed too overwhelming to approach cable managing, but I finally decided to just do it this weekend. Your video helped quell most of my anxiety about diving into that mess of cables.
I'm glad I was helpful!
Such a great video. Thank you!! I’m planning on following this video on my first rack set up.
Great video, loved it. TCI, you should add the Cable Comb to your list of item's used. Made by Jonard Tools. They make two models, the CCB-25 that accommodates cables up to 1/4" (6.35mm) in diameter, this is the version he was using in the video. Or the CCB-34 that will handle cables up to .36" (9.14mm) in diameter. If you're pulling 6a, even unshielded like I'm am, you'll need the CCB-34. Love watching a professional do their thing.
Nicely done. I also liked the Star Trek LCARS desk mat.
nicely done - i dont like unloaded patch panels but for a home I think its just fine
That was excellent. Pretty much exactly what I need to do right now.
thank you for this instruction! I spent 10 minutes to find a cable Cone :D
Uh oh, I gotta work on my diction if that happened
what a neat work done
Your LCARS mat made my week! And thank you for the video! Soothing the OCD beast nicely :]
Skip the 2U cable manager IMO if you have the capacity for a 2nd patch panel put one above and below the switch that are 12 Por 24P and split the ports top to bottom with 3in. Keeps things nice a clean and easy to trace, granted for a tiny rack like this its not always the case. In larger racks though I prefer slightly longer runs and then split the switch left to right with cables on each side, that way you have flexibility to shuffle things in the rack without having buy new cable.
Personal tastes aside though its not a bad little wall rack, for every hundred or thousand cabling jobs I see maybe one or two of them are actually this clean and super happy to see you use Velcro and not zipties.
That's cool - thanks for sharing. Definitely inspired me for my own very small build
very aligned and neat to see ..
thanks for this helpful video Sir .
I'm starting to work with networking and your channel will help me A TON, thanks for the video, high quality stuff that's for sure
Great explanation! I used to install back in college they pushed cable management a lot to us.
Thats mmm eeergh very neat and well presented, I learned a lot
Is it possible you put the rack shelf upside down? I put mine the other way so things sit on top, can't fall out, and don't take up more space than they should.
Interesting. I'm a network engineer of many years (18). I think I'll nab a few of your tips for the smaller wall mount racks and try them out..
I like to use 2 patch panels one above and below the switch so I can use short cables that line up with the switch ports.
Oh man, I'm so happy you had a link for that screwdriver! That thing is awesome.
Now that is clean! 👍
That uneven screw positioning at the cable manager hurts my inner perfectionist. 😅
And the 1U tray was fixed upside down...
ooh my God, yes... I thought I was the only one to notice! 😁
Am subscribed i have the notifications set to all ,you doing a great and a wonderful job, continue making this great videos. You can bet i will always watch.
That's really nice to hear, thank you!
Thank you for this great video! So many little tips that would have made my home install more clean.
amazing video. very fun to see your craft here.
Thanks for all the insight! Currently planning out a network and this game me a few ideas.
in my personal preference, if i got a 24-port switch that doesn't line up well,
i will get two unloaded patch panels and put the switch in the middle and use 6" patch cables anyway.
it takes one less rack unit and lets me upgrade the switch if i need more than 24.
For the cyberpower surge protector. SHould that be straight to the outlet or can you use a UPS. I thought you shouldn't plut a big surge protector into a UPS. Can you recommend one. I already have an APC ups for my rack but the whole thing is a mess. Thanks!
The power outlets in a rack are usually not a surge protector, but a PDU. The PDU that goes into a rack in meant to have a battery backup. If you are choosing a product, make sure it has no surge function and you'll be okay.
awesome. but i am wondering, how to know which cable is which? is it based on the label printed on the cables themselves?
Before you pull a cable somewhere, write on both ends of it with a sharpie or a sticker label, that way you know which is which :). If not available, you'll have to put a tone generator on each line and count them manually after you've done the install.
Hi, May I have the list of all equipments that you installed in your video with models please . which I need for my office network. and also the link of website that I want to order it. Thanks for your nice installation that was very helpful.
Check description!
Such an amazing job.
Noob question here:
why use another router connected to the modem? just to add more functionality that the modem lacks?
thanks!
My ISP locally usually sends a plain modem, it wouldn't have had any router functions built in. I know other ISPs give out different devices, so you may not need a router of your own in many cases.
thank you so much, I am so so appreciative what you have shown.
Love this, keep this kind of content coming!
What a great video, thank you!!
very cool. thank you for this video!
ok, so I strongly disapproved of his choice of switch when I saw it was TP-Link but then I noticed a Mikrotik box and he redeemed himself. The 2U cable management is clean and a great choice. Overall... approval rating 9 /10. VERY clean and nice job.... I hope you'll consider a Mikrotik CRS replacement for the only mistake you made! ;)
Ha! I got you, next network build will have a 'tik for sure.
Hello, good video! @ 03:04 when you put your cables in the patch panel, do you know where each cable goes in your house or you'll figure it out later? Thanks for the video, I plan to do this in my house soon, as fiber internet should arrive soon I hope.
Normally the faceplates around the house that these cables go to would have a label stickered to them and the number on the label should match the port number on the panel, so usually 1 through 24.
@@tciproductions Ok thanks for the answer, sorry but still something I don't get. In the video you color code ports 23 and 24 red because you will use them for wifi (wifi access points I imagine). How do you know these 2 cables go where you want your wifi ? Do you also number the cables 1 - 24 matching the faceplates they are connected to? Sorry if it's a dumb question and thank you.
@@xurok Sure thing. When you take a wire from the box and run it to the spot you want something, you would want to write on it with a sharpie or labeller and put what number it is. So your first cable is 1, and so on until 24. Then, when connecting things to the panel, the panel is pre-numbered 1-24, so you take the cable you labelled 1 and terminate it on port 1, and so on. So if I had put my wifi into position and it was cable numbered 23 and 24, I put those on the last two spots of my panel. I try to put my wifi all together numerically if I can.
@@tciproductions thank you very much, all makes sense now ! ❤
Neat and tidy, can't complain.
Dude screwed the cable management bar screws 1,4 on the left and 2,4 on the right. This ruined the entire build for me.
@@yellowrose0910 LOL, I had to go back and watch a couple of minutes to see what triggered your OCD. Cage screws not the same on both sides, you, triggered me too.
Simple and effective. Cheers
You did a great job my dear
Could you please show us how you attach cables to the connectors for the patch panel?
What is the best way to ensure you have enough cable after you cut the network cable for termination so it lines up nice and neat back to the patch panel after you terminate the wire? Like how do you know how much cable to cut off so you know you have enough cable when the terminated wire goes into the panel? Tips and or rules of thumb?
When the cable is poked through the panel like I show here, I mark a line on the jacket where the cable enters the panel from the back side. I then pull the cable out of the panel and strip about 1.5 inches from that black line, once a keystone is on it, should fit just right.
What is the purpose of the smaller switch between the router and the core switch? Getting rid of a single point of failure?
The little 5 port device? That's the router, the other thing you are seeing is just a modem.
Apologies if I missed it, what length cable are you using between the patch panel and switch? Specific brand / set recommend? Thank you for the videos!
I try to use the 2 foot lengths when I am working with a cable manager, it keeps the slack nice and loose. Any brand is fine, but I like the slim cords if I can find them.
Good job bro...
Do you have a method running patch cables so you can see which sw ports they connect to? I see the way you did it where I work and with multi switch racks it’s a jungle
I have a video planned on this, however I would broadly say that I patch them in the nicest way I can without any care as to which switch port they end up on. I try to always use a managed switch, and with that, I can usually tell which PC is connected where without needing to match the switch port to the panel port numerically. So many switches number their ports in a weird way that makes it look awful when patched.
Very good video!
Enjoyed this and TIL about cable combs. Didn't the shelf go in upside down, though? Did I miss _why_?
I did it on purpose because I hate the little lip that's on the end of the shelf, and I didn't mind giving up a 1U slot there. In other vids I talk about it, when I did this one I totally spaced.
@@tciproductions ah, I did think it could be the lip. Nice idea to stop things falling out, but in reality gets in the way of neatly connecting cables, and if the lip is too big getting your gear in and out, I guess?
For all my personal/friends & family work, like to use the thin cat6/6a patch cables now as they are so much easier to work with and take up less space. I use them for all my patch cable/non-structural wiring now (where I'm not using DAC's or fiber). Though at my home it is in a media panel and I took out the patch panel as I found it added no value, and took up a lot of very limited space, vs just terminating the cables and plugging them directly into the switch (the boot is color coded and labeled so I can know where it goes a glance).
The thin cables are the way to go. The cable management box is useless for a home install, especially when you consider how cheap, thin, and easy to work with those thin patch cables are.
The problem with directly terminating the wires instead of using a patch panel, is that the structural wiring is not suitable for repeated bending and unbending as it will damage and eventually snap off the solid cores inside the wires. Patch cables use stranded wires that can withstand a lot more bends than solid core wires.
Fantastic tutorial. Thank you.
Beautiful. Thanks for the share
What should ne the distance between rack and wall. How much cabel should I leave outside the rack. Thanks
You'll have to determine for yourself sometimes - I like my the distance to put the rack at about eye level for me, but you could set up real high against the ceiling so that you can use the space below it for other purposes. Whatever feels comfortable to you. The cable slack I usually put up in the ceiling, I only have it visible in the rack here because I wanted to include it in the shot. If your ceiling isn't readily accessible then 1-2 loops near your rack, for a total of 3 to 5 feet of length is fine for most purposes.
Every 24 port switch should have ports across the whole front
Depends on what kinda PP you have.
Switch vendors listen to us. Stop making 24 port switches with two rows of ports. Put a single row of 24 ports accross the front.
@ronaldnaeyaert3653 NIC/Switch HW Designer here. It's not always easy to lay out the lanes for a PHY to Port connection to always be consistent. Signal Integrity issues can be rampant in switches. Often, signal integrity constraints require us to keep loss at a minimum to accommodate for the electrical loss incurred on the trace. This results in a compromise in what is eventually decided for a port layout.
I could see how a single row of 24 ports would cause a whole slieu of possible signal integrity issues depending on the board design.
@@davydawg01 ok at least put the two rows of ports in the center of switch, not left side or right side
@@ronaldnaeyaert3653I hear you. But do understand that the alternative is performance issues in the switch (crosstalk, bit errors, link drops, etc)
Always easier said than done 🙂
It's very neat and clean. My server room was a quite mess. One of my top priorities now is to rewire and terminate the cat5/cat6 cables properly. I am waiting for some of the tools to do that. Your video does help a lot.
Are the initial 24 ethernet cables just connected to any of the 24 ports on the patch panel or are they numbered so that you know which device they will ultimately connect to ?
If nothing else I take a sharpie and label the cables, yes. You'd label both ends to match the patch panel port they are going to, and then use a proper label printer to attach a label to the faceplate once you were done.
@@tciproductions Ok thanks for the reply
How did you know the two wires terminated to the orange jacks were for the wifi APs? Did you tone them out first?
You'll want to mark them before you run them to the spot, that way you can find them in this mess of cables later on.
Thanks!
we need more of thease videos!
How are you able to determine which two wires are for your wifi which you put through the red ports on the far right?
I usually write on them with a sharpie before I pull them over to where my wifi will be, that way I can read the note afterwards and already be sure I have the right ones.
Question. My house was a new build and it was wired with CAT5e cables to every room. The cables are not terminated in the box in my closet. Do I need to do this or can I just terminate the cables and plug them straight into the router?
Nah, you can go directly to RJ's if that is easier for you. Just leave a little length so you can adjust it later to something else if you change your mind later.
@@tciproductions thank you. I assumed I could do that. I only need it for four cables as there are only 4 that lead to the rooms and the living room. Just wasn't sure if it would work or if I needed to do all this.
Does the panel panel use special keystones or the usual keystones?
The usual Leviton style keystones that most plates accept fit the panel just fine. I have mixed and matched brands of keystones in the same panel more than once. ICC High Density Keystones, Everest, and Leviton are the main ones I use but the generic monoprice ones fit it as well.
hy.
how do you choose the right rack ,why you dont use the holles on the rack ;do you have any videos about airflow on the rack and how to install the right way the network components , what is the best way to make corect a network spaghettti,can you recomand some books for cabel management.thanks
Hi there, check a few other vids in the channel, I think you'll come across the answers. For books the best one is: amzn.to/49QRVWc
Looks great. Wish I had (the need) for something like that at my own home. I didn't hear you explain why you installed the shelf upside down. Surely, there's a reason. 😉
If it was the right way up, the lip would get in the way and without headspace he wouldn't be able to remove the router without removing the shelf.
@@HarmonicaMustangIn this configuration it takes up 2u space. One could have embrace the limitation and install it one u lover but right side up. Still good access and no wasted space between it and power distribution unit.
Very nice! Whats the best way to account for/organize those connections coming into the patch that need POE from the switch.
My opinion - make all your switches PoE on every port, and patch it all in. You will be glad you did later, every single small biz that installed a 16 port PoE and then a 24 port gig switch without PoE ended up replacing both of them with a 48 port PoE switch, a costly upgrade. If you can, just do it all PoE from the start, in 24 port switches, which I think are the best bang for the buck at around $350-$450 per, two of them is cheaper than a single 48 port. As the days roll on, all kinds of stuff will be PoE-powered and you'll never have enough ports.
What brand keystones and crimper ? Been doing structured cabling for 20+ years and I have never seen a jack crimper ! I WANT ONE !!!!
This is awesome! Can you do a video on home security cameras without internet? I'm talking about an in home system that is managed using software on a home computer and not some paid service.
hello sir, where can I learn all the cable management and other secret method that can make my work efficient and make the cable neat and scalabe in the future?
If you precut your velcro and wrap them at the start of the trunk of the cable, all you do is just slide the velcro down so your not having to hold the cable or mess with cutting in the middle of combing.
You can kind of see me pre-cutting like 15 of them but I suck at estimating how many I need, gotta work on it.
Very nice!
Isn't this shelf upside down? It is blocking the screws wholes over and under it.
I'm about to run conduits through the basement in my house for a Cat6 install. I know that rack installs typically have the cables just coming out of the wall on the rack side, but I've been thinking about terminating them in a wall panel and then patching to my rack. I think it'll be good for the eventual resale of the home, since the next owners will most likely just use a standard consumer switch. Do you have any thoughts on this?
I agree it will help the resale, at least if the new owners are slightly interested in home networks, which are good odds. I can't speak to the wall panel but if its a patch panel and just a shelf (no rack) then I think that is perfectly fine. A whole lot of homes I visit do it that way.
perfect .. good work
Not really, normally your cables are labeled, I don't see that here, so you don't know where the other end comes out? good luck with testing, no strain relief on the patch panel? nice but no cigar.
Neat and tidy.
Very clean man!
Very good video - thx
Great video, enjoyed it! Nice desk pad too!
Hi great video can you tell us where to get the cable cone thanks 👍
Yeah, a clean setup. I personally would not use a Neat patch system because it needs a lot of rack space and I usually work with full cabinets where patch cables are guided to the side.
Doing a good cable drop is what not only makes the look of a good cabinet but also ensures that you have room for service years later.
I would also not go for the patch panel, switch, patch panel, switch, etc. configuration because switches are often very long and the cable drop and the back of the switch are in each others way. So I keep the patch panel at the top (starting with fiber and after that all Cat. 7 panel. Switches and other active devices below that. Usually I start with one patch panel, then one cable routing panel, then two patch panel, one cable routing panel, two patch panel, etc. Assuming everything is 1U high.
And as important as the cable droop at the back, is the use of patch cable with the appropriate length. Nothing lets a rack look more messy than too long and too short cables.
hey great video and i was hoping if anyone can tell me if the TrendNet 24 Port Blank Keystone Panel can be used in navepoint racks ? there is a 1 inch deference in the dimension between the panel and the rack and i dont know if thats a problem
It should fit fine, but if you have a link I can check.
Neat work! And well explained!
Nice clean work 👍👍 what is the Name of the tool you use to sort the cables??
Do a search for WIRE CABLE COMB or NETWORK CABLE COMB
I am curious, why does one need this many cables for home usage? Do people usually have a lan cable to each room?
I looks very cool, so I woud like to know the purpose.
In some of the high end houses I have worked on, we've run 2 LAN cables to a faceplate in each room, and then a few into ceilings for Wifi, and a few exterior for cameras. It gets up to 15+ wires pretty quickly. Usually the homeowner is a techie kind of person for it to turn out that way.
Thank you so much!!
Do you have a link to the screws you use? I ordered some and they were the wrong size.
Ignore me I didn't see the bag of 24 screws that it comes with. (rack)
Did the unsymmetrical screw placement @ 4:15 trigger any else's OCD?
what is an 'unloaded' patch panel? Is 'loaded' the opposite? and if so, what makes it 'loaded'? Does it fire at you?
That majestic hair flying around, you are the "PC Master Race" logo! Thanks for the video, I learned a lot, I'm just sad that I can't get those "NeatPatch" boxes here in Belgium... :(
I gotta enjoy the hair before its all gone :) I searched for something that would ship to Belgium, NeatPatch might be out, but Anixter does ship there, and this item is close - no deep back, but the rest is good: www.anixter.com/en_us/products/30339-719/CHATSWORTH-PRODUCTS-%28CPI%29/Rack-and-Cabinet-Cable-Managers/p/267511
I like the mat. May I know where did you get from?
I searched Amazon for "Oversized Mousepad" and "LCARS" and many variations came up, so I grabbed a few for our desks. Its not bad, they could be better on close inspection :)
I got this video in my recommended, I always love to see cable management.
However, I have little experience networking besides setting up an managed switch and updating my router firmware.
So I wonder, what situation requires 34 Ethernet ports?
My router has around 9 ports, enough for me.
What internet speed do you have that can support 34 ports?
Are you planning on having a LAN party every Saturday?
There's other commenters that discussed it, but 2 wires to each outlet in a house is standard, so in a 3 bedroom with the entertainment center factored in, that's 8 wires, then perhaps a couple APs, that's 10, then you might have some cameras set up, that's whatever. Factor in a couple of exterior spots for who knows what, maybe something in the garage if you have one, and you'll get close to filling up a 24 port panel pretty quickly. It depends entirely on your level of interest and use of course. Could always just set up two APs and call it done, but where's the fun in that?