Lo impact is for keystones and punch down blocks with the same type pins so you have less chance of damaging the pins and the tabs. Hi impact is for your traditional 66 block type connections and uses more force to get to the board and cut the wires. I have done some government wiring years ago and we had to certify each wire for it's speed capabilities, it would give you a pass or fail but also numbers for the speed it could transfer data. If you had too much untwisted wire the capabilities of the data cable would be diminished. Great video and a lot of useful information, I always enjoy your videos.
Great explanation of the keystone jack, very informative. 3:10 "With ethernet you're only using 4 out of these 8 wires." That's partially correct. With 10/100 Mbit, you use 4 wires: 1 pair for TX and 1 pair for RX. But 1 Gbit uses all 8 wires: 4 bidirectional pairs. You can try this yourself by only connecting the 4 wires mentioned in the video (pin 1, 2, 3 and 6) and then connecting for example your laptop to your router. It will show that it's connected at 100 Mbit instead of 1 Gbit.
People used to cheat and run phones and such on the other pairs. This of course really screws over the next tech trying to figure out such madness. (I have seen four phone lines run a cat 5. Ugh)
A quick tip, once you expose the wires, use the string and pull it back to slit the sheaf. This prevents nicking of the twisted pairs. I usually use my scissors and cut into the first inch or so of the cable, find the string and pull it back. There are pass thru versions of the rj45 plug that make it easier to verify the pairs are correct. The crimper than cuts the excess cable.
Right! The string is used because usually exposing the wires causes nicking which isn't always noticeable. So I always just assume the wires have been nicked during exposing, and plan to throw that section away.
I never use a string but I've been doing it for many years. People just have to learn to score the jacket and not cut it. If you're only doing a few that's fine, if you're a few hundred The string gets very tedious
Yes, guaranteed way to ensure you didn't knick through and expose copper.. pull enough wire so you can strip back to clean wire and you won't be going back to fix it months later.
I recommend training people to use the string instead of using a stripper of some sort to pull of the sheaf. It sucks to have to reterminate later because of a break or short circuit. The best solution on course it to pay a contractor to do it, so you can focus on more important things. 😉 It's a good skill to know, especially for one off problems.
Gigabit Ethernet uses 8 wires (4 pairs). Only 100mbits and 10mbits ethernet leave 2 pairs unused, unless Power over Ethernet is implemented, then all 4 pairs are used again. It is critical to get the wiring of all 4 pairs correct for Gigabit or 10Gigabit ethernet. It is also critical for systems that use Power over Ethernet. Telephone lines only use one pair, they do not use two pairs. Telephone uses a multiplexing system and only needs two wires (one pair) to both send and receive. If you only use 4 wires ( 2 pairs) as described, you will only get a maximum of 100mbits speed. :)
What will all the correctors do. Sigh. Why don’t people correct themselves in the description at least or redo their videos where they say something incorrect. Why wouldn’t they catch that after they said it? Or while editing? Or when previewing it before uploading it? Is this guy a complete idiot? Well reason to not hire.
Thanks for the correction - I am trying to fix my home cat6 because the installer didn't give enough wire for keystone wall termination. Is workflow show in this video accurate enough for DIYer. It seems most people use color code B in America- Is that accruate?
@@ohcrapitsmrG I find the B code is used in most cases here (in Australia), but ultimately it doesn't matter as long as both ends of the cable run use the same code. A B wired cable will work fine in an A cabled socket. The main thing is that the cable uses the same code at both ends. It is best to use the same code throughout an installation of course :). The main part of the workflow and information is fine in the video. It was just the information about unused pairs that had a little bug in it :)
This explains why my 600mbps internet is only giving me 98mbps out of the ethernet wall jack. I looked at the junction box and see only 4 wires connected and the other 4 wires wrapped around the cable.
Great video. A couple of updates to your information. The brown and blue pairs ARE used in networking for several things, not the least of which is PoE. Second, Telephone is full duplex over ONE twisted pair, the second pair is for a second line. I believe the Kevlar string is for strengthening the cable for pulling, though it is a convenient jacket splitter. The Crimp tool has two blades, one for scoring the jacket and one from cutting the ends off straight. Last, but not least, for electricians who are running the wire, be careful not to kink the wire. A kink will degrade or prevent the signals, and it is recommended that the wire be at least 12" from power wire when running parallel.
To piggyback a little, when it comes to untwisting the wires for the keystone, you want to keep as much twist as possible to avoid a high NEXT(near end crosstalk). When I do these I never untwist them completely, I just unwind a small section where it will be punched and set the entire pair together. I also use alot of Panduit minicom style connectors that have a whole separate method.
PoE is only delivered on the brown and blue pairs when the source of PoE power is a power inserter. If the source of PoE power is a network switch, then PoE will be delivered on the orange and green pairs. Which means that a PoE device powered from a switch, and for which 10/100 operation is sufficient (like an IP phone), only needs two pairs to work. I have taken advantage of this to run IP phones at 10 megabit using 3 pair telco wiring (leaving a pair free--if needed--for an analog fax line), leaving the cat5e drop free to run at gigabit speed for the desktop PC.
You may find another video on RUclips that explain more and does the work better of terminating. With the 568A and 568B this still matters and depends on what country you are in. POE Power over Ethernet. Is used in alot of area such as cctv and also to extend the distance and signal of the cable. The kevlar ribbon / string is used to strip for more cable
Here’s something I would’ve added in, and done differently. you want to keep the twist in the cable as much as possible, or else they would not certify if tested. The best way to punch down a keystone is to leave them twisted, and make a small gap with your fingernail. It allows the pair to go into the keystone Slots, and is much easier to terminate since they won’t slip out. Also, it means the twist stay in the cable
Yes! Just started doing low voltage at work for the first time and was interesting every wire, it was time consuming, so I just asked one of our experienced Low Volt guys for a better way to do it and he said just what you said. Makes it easier and gives a better connection
You really should do a TDR / Bandwidth test on a completed run to prove cat rating compliance. Unlike electrical wiring which tends towards the work or “no work” conditions, data wiring has many more conditions and nuances that can greatly affect the final performance.
@@JZ6563 ; Whew, ... I agree ... That's why with the exception of large or medium businesses and some home office situations. For the average home I thank goodness for advances in WiFi and coax MoCA solutions today. As wiring for Ethernet, and to meet all specs, is just too labor intensive and thus expensive. ...
Its nice to see an electrician who can actually terminate Cat 5/e/6 cable correctly. I would only add that those who are new to it, please get a proper Cat cable stripper. Also a good rule of thumb is to strip a portion of the cable off, then use the fibers inside (some cable brands use a plastic strip) to pull down and rip the cable as he demonstrated for about another 2 inches. The purpose of this is, because Cat cables are most typically 24 AWG wire, which is very thin, its easy to nick the inner sheathing on a cable when stripping the outer jacket. So by ripping the cable down another 2 inches from your initial strip, ensures that if you did nick a cable, then you are sure to get past it. (Especially if you do the bend method to brake the outer sheathing off like he does) If you do nick one of the inner jackets, then its almost a guaranteed chance the inner cable was nicked and severed. Its very easy to do. I've even seen the inner cable break in the sheathing due to over bending past the rate radius of the cable and cause signal issues over time.
Great video. It helped me out with what I needed. When cat5 and cat6 wires need to be terminated in the industrial industry I can add this under my belt. I also appreciate all the low voltage guys giving their input as well. One isn't complete with out the other...✌🏿
Cat5 "UTP" stands for *unshielded* twisted pair. Not "universal". And STP is, conversely, *shielded* twisted pair, referring to an RF shield wrapped around the wire bundle, under the outer jacket.
A couple of tidbits to try to and help out any other DIY'ers. You want to avoid running UTP/CAT 5 parallel (next to) standard romex (considered high voltage, compared to low voltage CAT 5). Electrical wires can introduce EMI into your networking cables and cause issues. Also, with regard to testing, there is a huge difference in merely testing cable versus "certifying" cable. What is shown here in the video is a good simple test to make sure your pin-outs and terminations are correct but it doesn't actually validate that the run is capable of supporting gigabit speed.
@@Sean-mc4iq False. EMI/RFI problems caused by parallel runs of AC wiring in close proximity to data cable are well documented. Standards for separation are based on scientific testing by EE's, and available online if you are a seeker of facts.
perpendicular runs if in proximity of romex. to certify cables it costs quite a bit to get the tester. ive wanted one but prohibitively expensive right now
I love these videos Dustin. They're great for someone like me who never worked on these before and is expected to know what I'm doing while in class when we had no prior instruction. Its just like read schematic and go, no lesson.
Men, I'm watching your wonderful schooling and helping on and off for a long te now. We need you and your wisdom Never stop , keep on going - you are truly amazing bro! Thanks for allcyou do .
Love your channel. Just so you know, a phone line is only two conductors. The four pins are for locations with two phone lines. The "full duplex" capability of telephones is really quite a clever design, but it uses two conductors. Also, gigabit ethernet uses all 8 conductors, as does POE Power over ethernet. All that said, your videos are great 👍
yes sir, ty! as a Verizon man, i was like "hmmm, so guys like him are why I'm out", and that's NOT to disparage him, he's an electrician, and smarter than I!
@@aredditor4272 its for 2 lines. green/red in center are "line 1", yellow/black outside of that is "line 2" if you have a 2 line phone and 2 phone number, otherwise there are up to 4 pairs for a 4 line phone. or a single pair over 120vdc for a PBX system, but thats a whole other thing.
@@MyUserTubeAccount or, for twisted pairs, the blue pair is line 1 (solid blue: ring, white/blue: tip) orange pair is line 2, green pair is line 3, brown pair is line 4.
@@MrThinking4myself not on the handset cord side. it was green(tip) red(ring) on line 1, yellow(tip) black(ring) line 2. talking old Bell 2pr i.w., when cat3 came, yes, bl/or/gr/br
It's critical for electricians to know how cat cable is terminated and tested. I'm retired now but as an electrician you will open more doors of opportunity. Cat cable is used for TV's, Surveillance Cameras, N-light wall pods and so much more. I was never that good at terminating RJ45's but when I started using the pass throughs it was real easy to do. Thanks for sharing. Sharing is caring.
You made this look so easy. My son has been asking for a cable connection in his room for his tv and laptop. Wi-Fi is too slow for downloading he said. Now I know how to connect these plugs. Nice video
One thing I've learned is that the string inside the cable, called a "rip cord", is there to literally rip the sheathing. So after you strip off like 2" of sheath, you should grasp the string and rip down another 2 inches or so... then chop off the conductors BELOW where you stripped the sheath. The reason for this is because in your initial stripping of the sheath, there was some risk you nicked one or more inner conductors. So the rip cord stripping of the sheath comes closer to guaranteeing good inner conductors.
@@dawudasha977 If you use the rip cord in the cable as you should, there is much less chance that anyone--including those in the field of terminating--will nick the conductor. Thanks for your reply!
@@dawudasha977 yeah if youre not out risking $100k recabling on a 95% certainty, skill based protocol vs. a 99% certainty, fool-proof protocol youre not a "real" field tech right? fuck off
@@dawudasha977 If you're not using the rip cord and stripping back you definitely do not belong in the field terminating. I can't even begin to tell you how many terminations I've had to redo behind "experienced" cable installers when networks start experiencing intermittent outages months and sometimes years after the cables were initially installed.
Highly recommend the EZ-RJ45 connector. After you've stripped, untwisted and attempted to insert the conductors, on the EZ-RJ45 you can insert the conductors through the end of the EZ-RJ45, allowing you to confirm the colour orientation.
As a professional in the low-volt industry, stay away from these pass-through EZ-RJ45 ends. A lot of manufacturers will void the warranty on their product if they find that you used an EZ-Jack.
@@JustinBallou01 Which manufacturers would those be? Pass-through "EZ" ends are where it's at (especially when your eyes succumb to a high birthday count).
I hit the buzzer at about 3:05. Only 10Mbps and 100Mbps Ethernet use 2 pair; Gigabit or higher use all 4 pair, as does anything running 802.3ab/at/bt. Your IT content is circa the 1990s even if your Electrical content is contemporary. There's a good reason why a totally separate set of training and certification is required to legally install Cat6+ (at least in Australia) as there are many factors that matter and differ from Cat5e and below. Your tester only shows polarity, not impedance, distance or a host of other factors that go into a correctly installed cable., Cat6a+ is another story again as you have to take into account bundle limits as well. I respect electricians for what they know but believe that they should either get fully certified as data cablers or get a specialist to do this sort of work.
I fully agree that certification should be required for data installations. As an electrician I’m not afraid to admit I’m far more comfortable dealing with 600 volts than I am with 30 volts. That being said, I’ve done my own cabling at home using Dustin’s tools and techniques. All my lines work perfectly fine. I’d do same for buddies, but I wont do it for clients unless they completely understand that I’ll give it the “old college try” but it might not work and they would then have to contact a data guy to troubleshoot.
I was just trying to learn a bit about this stuff to test my cat6 jack that isn't working in my office. Although i've pretty well determined that i'll just wait for our data guy to come and inspect/repair it, as a student of many things, i found this super interesting and well-taught. Good job!
Phones only use 2 conductors. Always use the rip cord and strip the jacket back. Wires almost always get nicked during the score. Gigabit and PoE use all 8 conductors. When wiring jacks don't untwist the wires as the twist needs to remain as close as possible to termination points in order to pass certification.
Hey mate you got the basic there just would like to say the blue pair is for voice and the brown pair is power eg cameras use POE power over Ethernet which is the brown pair WAPS in buildings also use POE. Also with the male RJ45 it is best to put the rubber protector on which you see on you testers jumpers these protectors help stop the cable wires from breaking up close to the RJ45 crimp. Now as for A & B A is the Australian standard and still used heaps in Australia but you are correct as long as you wire it the same both ends it will pass and work anyway I enjoyed you how too it was good hope this helps you or someone reading comments and keep up the goo work
To say that the Blue is for voice and the Brown is for PoE is wrong. PoE uses the outer pairs of wires for 802.3at and 802.3af but uses all for pairs for the 802.3bt. (NEVER is less than two pairs used.) This is the Orange pair and Brown pair for EIA/TIA-568B. If you use Cat5e wire with RJ-45 for POTS, then the Blue pair is line 1, Orange for line 2, Green for line 3 and Brown for line 4. (It spells BLOG with the Brown pair last and understood.) This order is the same in your 66 block. www.black-box.de/en-de/page/23894/Resources/Technical-Resources/Black-Box-Explains/lan/PoE-in-Networking There is a lot to learn in proper networking that cannot be covered in a 25 minute RUclips video. Unfortunately, there is a LOT of misinformation put out on these videos and especially by user comments. There are several good certifications for network cabling, such as BICSI being tops and some vendor certifications like Fluke. The LOWEST certification level requires about 50 hours of classroom training followed by a two-hour written exam and hands-on testing.
The keystone has a "puck" that provides a little wider footprint for punching down and it protects the tab from being broken. It can be difficult to get the keystone jacks into and out of the puck when they are brand new, but it does help.
Senior sys and network engineer here, came to watch an electrician terminate cat cable and was surprised by how much he did right! Kudos bro! Didnt use pass through rj45 ends!
That's a good point on the TIA-568 A vs B. In datacomm these days we are always using B. I still run into old Bell system guys that use A because that's always what they used. One of the first times I worked with one of the greybeards, he was punching down in A at the patch panel and the rest of us were punching down in B out at the jacks. Luckily we caught it early after only like 10 drops had been punched, another win for safety/slack loops. Also, for my experience in 15 years I've never had the need for the strippers and found them a little bulky. I've found a nice set of electricians scissors to be easier to use and handle on big jobs.
A vs B is a debate that's been raging for a while. I personally use 568A as it's compatible with 2pair phone wiring, but end of the day whatever my customer is using on premises is what I work to.
Actually, the other 4 wires on the Ethernet cable can be used for power delivery via PoE standards and injectors, if separate from your router, bridge or switch. Here's what I'm talking about: planetechusa.com/power-over-ethernet-poe-demystifying-mode-a-and-mode-b/
NEVER untwist the pairs when doing a keystone jack, most good keystone jacks have a points top for each pair, just use that to separate the pairs leaving the twist intact, place all the pairs in the corresponding slots then punchdown all the pairs. This is done to maintain the high speed of the network, do to any untwisting slows the speed down.
what about the keystone jack, if i use the cat5 jack on a cat6 cable? is there a big difference? because... the cat6 jacks are 3 times more expensive than cat5 jack (1$ - 3/4$)
@@davet6745 I've used Cat5e Keystones with Cat6A cable and use 10Gb with no speed loss. Only because I didn't have the correct jack with me. But it is not the end of the world.
@@ThePirateGod100mb or 1000mb a.k.a. gigabyte ethernet, then the connectors make a big difference, I have seen speed loss with mismatched connectors when testing and certifying a system. Maybe on a short run cable there might not be a problem.
I'm supposed to be starting a job doing this type of work next week. I know nothing about it but after watching this I can honestly walk in with more confidence than I had before I watched this video. Great teaching bro. Thank you my man. $20a hr here I come.
And my experience says that electricians always need to clean up after network techs after they were climbing around all our conduit messing up absolutely everything. So the best thing is to have the electricians pull the wires after some instructions and then let a specialist terminate them. Absolutely not one of those guys dwelling in an office clunking a keyboard all day long. They are the worst and should not be near a site until the switches are to be but in. Not even patching is done right.
Yes, second I saw the headline I said oh crap, electrician who needs his balls busted for playing data guy. Sure enough this guy makes every mistake in the book. Worthy mention to some of the other comments, unless the data guys were formally trained, it’s just a flunky IT guy who thinks he knows how to run and manage cable.
@@j2o3shI see a lot of messed up cable plants and others that make you scratch your head wondering how much $ and time was poured into the pristine detail work. And when I see things like that, I respect the tradesman’s efforts but it usually begs the question of how much planning and thought was really poured into it, and at who’s expense. If its beautiful but lacks forethought, it isn’t adding value. It was a data guy taking someone for a ride. Usually I’m brought in at a directors level to clean up someone else’s mess. There is a vast difference between being highly trained vs understanding requirements, client needs, and seeing around the corner for whats coming down the pike. My perspective in unique in this way. What I saw in this video specifically was the typical electrician, using subpar data products for their install demo, untwisting pairs, crimping riser cable? I mean come on. If I see crimpers anywhere, they are promptly thrown in the trash. There are many different ways to skin a cat, and in the data world, there are many different ways to install cable. Some of them good, some just okay, and many bad with little forethought. These overall mistakes are repeated over and over and over again. And it makes me wonder. “Why” I already knew what I was about to see before I watched this video. It didn’t disappoint. Do not use riser - Industry Certified Plenum Only! And use the higher MHZ rated stuff. Plenum performs better. Crimp Nothing or Be Crimped. Use a keystone and biscuit. Hey you can label it, imagine that. Crimps Create a point of failure. Use ICC keystone jacks. They make an install Mitt for them. The pairs are in order. Why make the job harder? Use ICC EZ Panels rather than patch panel. Color code it! Smack the IT guy when your done and provide 1ft booted patch cords, color coded, matching the brand of your keystone. (It matters) the products were designed as a system by engineers. T568B Only - A was an old AT&T standard. Why create any confusion on a site? Why would anyone even suggest that? All pairs are used with 10/100/1000 and POE standards.
I buy the EZ45J plugs so I can pull each wire through the plug. When I crimp them down the crimping tool I use cuts the excess wires off. The wires are hard for me to see so I put on a head mounted magnifier which makes things BIG.
FYI: the brown/brown white is used for POE. So if your using something like an IP phone or security camera, some will/can derive their power from a switch via POE, so if you mess up the brown/brown white wire and ignore it, though it will not affect a computer, it will not provide power to a phone or camera.
Easy tip to untwist the pairs is to use that piece of the jacket you just stripped off. Just slide it between the wires of a pair. It will naturally unwind the cable without having to do much twisting. You can also then slide it over both wires, pinch them, and then pull it off while pinching. This will get the wires relatively close to each other and straighten them out without having use additional tools or risk knicking them on your shears.
I have only seen that used recently while ¯＼◔ー◔/¯ for vids for middle school kids to learn. I’m anxious to try it. Since 96, been old school and untwist by hand. Also straightening with fingers (and why I haven’t used the scissors or screwdriver to straighten wires is beyond me as I do that with many other electrical projects. Guess breaking old habits or teaching an old dog new tricks need some getting used too. Today, I do this seldom, if I need a cable at home or teaching a class 😏
Ops the first ops. I love your videos so far. Telephones only used one pair, the blue white pair. I spent 30 years doing and started to electric work in 1960, yes I am that old. Second have you ever used the pass-thru RJ-45 plugs, I wish I would have years ago. But, the pass-thru you do not cut the wire, they pass-thru the plug and the crimper will gut the wires flush.
Thanks for the video man! You missed a good opportunity to do a over the shoulder first person view when you were explaining the termination. That little bit of “my left, your right” will add a little bit of frustration when trying to learn an already tedious task. Thanks again for the help
just to add something , one of the twisted pairs he mentioned not being used can also be used as POE (power over Ethernet) and can be used to power things such as CCTV cameras ect. great vid!
Keep the twist as much as possible, it's an balance pair where the twist on the two conductors balances the inductance and capacitance to keep the impedance where it needs to be. Not to mention common mode rejection of the twisted pair. Untwist and you create an impedance lump. So keep it twisted as much as possible. Yes someone can come by and say that's not precisely right, feel free.
Love watching your channel man you do a great job very professional and very informative. However there's a couple things I noticed in this video. Standard pots or plain old telephone service only uses one pair of wires per line. Both the receiving and the transmitting happens over a modulated carrier signal. Works in both directions. The reason why a typical rj-11 has four wires in it is really just for two lines that's why some plain old telephones can use a standard 4-pin plug and you can have two lines. Also at the beginning you said 40 GB. Giga and Bytes . That's roughly 10 times faster than 40 gbits. It's gigabits not gigabytes. But your point about how the different quality and construction of the different categories of UTP cable provide faster data throughput is the point you were trying to make and you did a great job on the whole video is great. Keep up the great work.
One thing that's helpful to untwist the wires, is to use the sheathing you just pulled off the cable and run it down in between each of a twisted pair.
The string in the cat5 cable is a strength member. It is common to have strength cords in cables that will pulled or hung and where the conductors on not strong enough to hold things together.
I was told by my data teacher at the university that he was on the team that AT&T sent to the standards conference, when the conference established the 568 standard that we know today as 568A Att objected because they had already established their own standard (258A) and objected that it would not be the standard, the end was to have both an A and a B standard to accommodate AT&T. The pairs are also important, Pair 1 the blue pair Pins 4 and 5 on a 568 cable initially carried a standard telephone line. Pair 2 (the orange pair, pins 1 and 2) was transmit data and pair 3 the Green Pair, Pins 3 and 6 was Receive data, a crossover cable was for connecting equipment such as two switches (both expect to transmit data on pair 2) together, the crossover was to crossover transmit to receive and receive to transmit. Pair 4 the brown pair was unused. We could make two network connections by creatively using the blue and orange pairs for a second connection. AT&T also was using 258A for their telephone systems that had (hybrid) telephone sets and used one pair for voice (pair 1) another pair to send data to the telephone set (lights, date/time etc) and a third pair to send data from the telephone set tot he phone system (digits dialed, buttons pushed etc. ) and the last pair for power. as the systems got more complex the need for 4 pairs dropped to 3 then 2 and finally 1 pair. the telephone techs had to know a bunch of standards and how they worked.
Second comment when terminating keystone jacks is that you want to maintain the twist as long as you can. This means keeping the pairs twisted all the way up to the punch down terminal as best as possible. You also want to keep all the cables as close to the same length as possible which means instead of laying the cable at 90 degrees to the block like shown here, you want to come straight in on it. The same goes for punch down panels as well. You can see that the keystone cap is designed for the cable to come straight it at it. Never bend the cable back up afterwards either as it will pull them loose. When taught this, it keeps cross talk down. The proper standard is to keep the pairs twisted always, use a pick tool (looks almost like a dentist pick but plastic) and separate a small opening between the pairs where they need to connect in the punch down. Since keystone jacks and punch panels always keep the pairs together (only crossing the connections internally as needed) this makes the best for least cross talk. Cat cable is so fine and the more cable exposed from the outer sheathing, the more the potential for cross talk. This isnt as bad in 10Mb/100Mb and even most 1000Mb configurations but def a must for 10Gb and higher. In fact cabling for them are sticker and have shielding internally to the wire as well. A proper 1000$ tester will pass the connections shown here for but report they have cross talk and reduced signal strength even though they make connection and are wired correctly per color code.
@@velocityacoustics You should never bend the cable after termination as it can and will cause the termination to pull lose. Also when coming out at a 90 degree, you cannot guarantee each run is of equal length which is something you should always attempt to maintain is equal length cables from the sleeve. You cant trust the producer of a key stone jack over industry standards.
@@Koorisin I agree that terminating the wires straight into the keystone is the right "by the book" way. But I can tell you that in the real world, chances are it will not make a difference. These things are not that fragile. They designed for the rigors of installation. Think about when you are installing a keystone wall plate. You don't think that pressure is exerted on the wires? The IDC connectors have a very firm grip on the wires, plus with the snap on cap, that wire is not going anywhere. You would have to be very forceful with the wire for it to come loose. As for equal length of the wires, that minute amount of wiring is insignificant in 90 percent of installations.
@@velocityacoustics I do this stuff every day. I can show you our new building where lazy installers did the same thing and upon pressing the wall plates back into the wall and tieing them down, we had a number of them come lose. Most on the blue/white
The male ends are always a pain..but, a while back, I started using the pass through ends. I know for those that have been doing this forever, they will call that cheating and are used to the systems demonstrated here...but, the pass through are just as good...and they are way easier (and more importantly, faster) to get terminated.
With the pass through you can also pull the untwisted portion all the way through and thus maintain the twist of each balanced pair as close to the compression/piercing connection of the gold pins at the end as possible.
well, " just as good " is yet to be determined, I'm a little concerned for those in high humidity areas, oxidization on the exposed and unprotected ends.. Even the folks at Ideal say its a "wait and see in 5 or 10 years time" type thing as to how being exposed affects them.
@@Ressy66 I admit I use passthru ends it's too easy and I can make 10 patch cables in the time I can make 1 standard style end. Haha. On exterior projects, outdoor A/P, security cameras, ETC i have started just putting the faintest amount of dielectric grease on the exposed end, I have been doing it for a couple years and have had zero issues, call backs, down time. When doing routine maintenance nothing looks abnormal. I live on acreage and have zero cell service so I rely on wifi. I have deployed the same methods at my own home without fail well except cutting a direct bury cable in half that was over a 100ft run lol.
@ Tarek Now that's a neat idea, I might make a couple (supplier gave me bag of 50 once when they were new to them) and dab the ends of some, and some not, then just wait and see in 6/12/24/+ months if there's a difference. We're in a hot and humid climate, near ocean, so a good test to see how they hold up. I'll do some inserted, and some "spares" that are truly exposed to air. (Ohh and I know what you mean about time to make normal, my hands are not that small, and its a PITA to keep them in order sometimes :)
@@isaacbull8653 I thought the same but regular POE can be carried over only the orange and green pairs (pairs 1 & 2, 3 &6) for 568B. I only know this because I've been able to get Cisco 3602 WAPs online using 2 pair hydra cables. All this tells me is that I don't understand how POE works. Or Cisco does something with their switches where POE is sent on all 4 pairs, so whatever end device you are using can get power over any pair.
Amazing. I never knew the reason for the specific wire twist was to separate or eliminate cross talk. I assumed the plastic center strip was there to space the wires farther apart. This also explains why I have spliced signal wires in the past and they didnt work... all because I untwisted the wires and left them straight or the 2 wires joined together had different twists. (all about the details!!!)
Stick a small precision flat head screwdriver in between the twisted pair wires and slide them apart. Its so much faster than twisting them apart by hand. Just a little tip.
@Rezheer Kirkuky it depends on the application. If I never run less than cat6. If you are around hvac and air passageways you are required by code to run plenum because it is smoke/fire resistant and obviously you don't want smoke or fire around oxygen ;) If you need higher data rate like 10g ethernet i would be running cat7 or better. If you have long (300+ ft) cable runs maybe cat6a minimum for example. It all depends on the application.. if you are running cable between levels of a building.... you would by code need "riser" cable which is a very common form. If network cable is not rated it is for general purpose runs on the same floor and not to be run though walls.
@@gusc6785 they make a outdoor version of all of these cables.... if you are linking buildings i would recommend cat7 (but really fiber) but if its just to a device (camera or rf device) cat6 would be perfect :) All depends on the application tell me what you are doing and I might be able to give more insight :)
@@CarsonSuite just PoE cameras residential, longest run approx.. 190ft. Some will be exposed to weather but very small section of it.... 2 of which will be in raceway underground. ( do you recommend metal or pcv for raceway)?
Wow that was actually really interesting, thank you. I've been really interested in just normal power, but this actually piqued my interest into network cabling/LV. Thanks!
If the work is done good and tested properly then you would not need to return to. I do agree with you that over the years as a electrician I have seen dodgy work.
What you mean to say is that half of the problems you have encountered have been to poor installations by electricians, that does not mean half the networks installed by electricians are bad. Yes there are poor data installations but not all of them have been carried out by electricians there also also data bad engineers, or are you saying they don't exist? Having worked in both industries I think that two day course is long enought to learn all you need to know about data networks, the rest is experience in wiring and containment installation, knowing how to create a route and the best method in wiring to it to conform to wiring regulations. Not just throwing a loom over a suspended ceiling often passing straight over a florescent light fitting (when they were more common) which I have witnessed on many occasions. The bottom line is it really is'nt rocket science and a half decent electrician will get a hold of it very quickly because cabling is a good part of our trade.
@@keithwilliamsWilf it's just my two cents. 25 years in the telecom / IT field , in the Bay area and as a owner of one of these these businesse. That's the data that I've concluded.
Using shielded cable unless you have equipment that supports it can do more harm then good. Utp should be used 99% of the time for normal users,unless you know you have grounded equipment
Do keystone jacks reduce speeds or ping? I have fiber running to my modem in the garage, then a 20-foot ethernet to a keystone jack, then a jumper(small Ethernet cord) to the router, then another 30-foot ethernet to my Xbox. I'm trying to get the lowest latency possible. Does the keystone jack make a difference? Is cat8 overkill? Any help would be awesome, you seem very knowledgeable on this stuff.
27 years in the Electrical trade, For the last 5 or 6 years I have done far more datacomm work than I do regular electrical work these days. Not on purpose, it has just worked out that way ((((( Just a tip, You can buy one of those FLUKE punchdown tools at OfficeDepot for much cheaper than what they cost at a Electrical supply store. Why OfficeDepot is able to sell those for so much cheaper than everyone else, I don't know how they're able too, but they do. ((( One of my co-workers told me about them being cheaper at OfficeDepot is how I found out, I didn't even know that OfficeDepot sold Fluke products until he told me. (they don't actually stock them in the store, but they will order it for you, takes 2-3 days for it to come in)
This is a great CAT5 termination video. Your clear explanation and great closeup of how to lay the wires flat for interesting in the RJ45 plug are excellent. But this is not a "CAT6, CAT 7, CAT 8" video. These higher cat levels have much stricter termination requirements and use different physical RJ45 connectors. Once you go above 1 Gbps, a more sophisticated Ethernet analyzer is a must to verify the performance of the lines. Something more than a simple continuity tester like the LAN Scout Jr.
Punch down has HIGH/LOW impact for a reason. You always you low on any plastic punch down block and high on all metal punch down blocks. The low is so you don't break the plastic connector
Thanks so much I've learnt a lot, i love making my own net cables so i can choose my own cable and connectors so i dont have to drill a massive hole in the outside of my house as i dont have to get the pre made connectors through.
@@paulphillips675 some electricians have been known to botch up network cable installs because they are borrowing knowledge from the RJ11 days, I've seen phone splice connectors being used inside of ethernet installs (really bad!) This is why people pay for a proper network guy such as Cisco certified to get things done right the first time
The unused wires act as shielding and increase external signal rejection. As has been noted by others the string is for strength, not to take jacket off. A vs B. As long as both ends are terminated the same way, you will get signal. B is theoretically better than A for outside signal rejection, although in practice, how well you do the termination is more important. Remember that twisted pair is a cheap substitute for coaxial cable. Also termination of coax is more difficult
I have a bunch of wall-faceplate-connected RJ45 sockets and the other end of them cable, in a different room, unterminated. Is there a better way of finding out whether they are all (hopefully the same) A or B type pin-outs at the wall-socket end so I can put the right wiring pin-out plugs on the unterminated ends, than to assume one (B most likely, they were done in the last year or two) and put the plug on and use a wiring tester to find out - have to take it off again and waste a plug probably if I'm wrong (I have a multimeter but that seems kinda fiddly).
I think the biggest thing that electricians should take away from any training they get on how to run CATx cable, is bend radius. Network cable is NOT doorbell cable, you can't bend it around a 2x4 like you can doorbell cable, it needs a gentle bend (1" radius at the absolute minimum) otherwise you'll damage the cable internally and guys like me who work with this stuff for a living will come behind you cursing at the (expletive) sparky who forced me to re-pull a cable (always fun behind drywall) because it wasn't installed correctly. And if you really want to make us datacom guys happy (sing your praises) when doing commercial rough ins, run some 1/2" or 3/4" conduit into an outlet box so we can do our pulls easily. You know what it's like to fish MC through finished walls, we don't like it either. :-)
Lol. You got that right. Bends were one thing. Having staples driven through the cables and trying to hide it was annoying as heck. Made my electricians pull a whole new 200’ run for not telling me. I could have fixed where it was (micrscan tester is awesome for detection and where). They needed the practice. And we had a saying in the Navy. “ never enough time to do it right the first time, but ALL the time in the world to do it over and over. Plus I was doing installs and first stop was Pearl Harbor. Was in no hurry as it was winter time 😏
@@stemmentor9700 I have a cable certifier (not the expensive $5000 Fluke model) that can detect shorts or cuts, and uses TDR to determine length so I can estimate where the break is. Always at the point where there's no slack anyways, so gotta pull a new run.
Dude, this guy is a pro and does things as clean and as well done as humanly possible. Structured cabling just isn't his profession, he's an electrician...but I'm guessing electricians sometimes do this work. Unless they are very knowledgeable on both fronts, however, it's not something that they should be doing. But your remark was completely unfair, not even remotely accurate, and uncalled for.
Instead of untwisting with your fingers, try this: take a small flathead screwdriver, stick the screwdriver between a pair, and pull the twist out. They will be completely straight except for the tip which you can then cut off. The best ($) connectors for efficiency are EZ RJ45 connectors, along with their crimpers. The connectors are open on both ends so you don't have to cut the wires down to length, they just pass through the other side. The crimpers have a blade on it, so when you go to crimp, it cuts the excess wire off for you.
It literally does not matter what order the colors are in. As long as they perfectly match on each terminated end. The device with the network port isn't going to flip out when a green is in the normally blue/white pin location. Its just copper wires. Ensure each wire is in the same location on both ends and the colors won't matter for anything but for nitpicking purists. the actual conductor pads on the rj45 jack lets you know which signal line it's using. Keeping the 568A or 568B config is just for those that don't know the above info.
Yes & No. Will it work? Yes, but you are asking for trouble by not following standard practice. You are opening yourself up to making errors. Not only that, let's say down the road you need to fix one keystone termination. When you go to fix it, you are going to need to remember whatever janky order you used. It's best to just follow the standards to avoid such messes and doesn't make anyone else who might work on it pull their hair out.
@@curtflirt2 Just try Amazon.com and type in "Cat5 Stripping Tool" in the search box. Pick the one that looks the easiest for you to use. The one you get should be adjustable, not all cable is exactly the same diameter. Even though I typed Cat5 above, it works for Cat6 also.
@@curtflirt2 I use this one all the time at work as I do a lot of CAT 5/5e/6 cabling at work. A lot of other's one's cut too deep which nicks the inner insulation. Only time I use the deeper cutting ones are when I do outdoor cable rated for direct burial or overhead (aerial) runs. The jackets on those are thick. www.platinumtools.com/products/strippers/twisted-pair-strippers/cat-5-6-cable-jacket-stripper-15015c/
I am a certified installer for several different manufacturer's there is a difference with tia 568a and b. You should not mix the 2 when running Gb speeds. Also use the specialized for proper termination
You are incorrect about networking not using all 8 wires , in half duplex what you say is true but now most connections are Full Duplex and it uses all 8 with twice the throughput!
OMFG .... where do I start .... @04:47 WTF? no, most of the rest of the world uses "A" ,, also of note US Govt Buildings must only be cabled in "A" There are couple other things wrong with the first few minutes too, all 4 pairs ARE used for data in the gigabit ranges.. and 2 pairs for phone systems? analog requires one pair, 2 pair is for some pabx's or old phones with 2 lines though. cat 5 is no longer a standard, its been removed, but commonly used term cat "5" used now days is the meaning of cat "5e" @7:28 no ,no no ,NO. you NEVER EVER trust you have not nicked those pairs, the draw string is so when you cut the sheath, you DO pull down and snip off just below where you scored the sheath, meaning you have no possible way of using a pair that been nicked that WILL cause you problems at some point if not right away, I have failed certifications because installers have been sloppy and not followed the correct method and nicked a pair or three @18:11 I'm glad you put the cable "just inside" the jacks - many installers dont, so big plus there, but. it is very important to keep the twists as close to the punchdown point as possible.
If you are using a business phone it can 2 wire/1 pair 4 wire/2 pair or if an older system 6 to 8 wire/ 3 to four pair. If you're using VoIP with PoE then all pairs of course. Done them all!!
@@davidj898 Well i was referring to the service providers. As far as I know the vast majority of all them are a pair to supply unless they are VOIP. You are talking about PBX systems and even "old" pbx systems like nortel which are super common only use 1 pair... and I know other digital / analog systems line panasonic, AVAYA, and so on only used a pair.
@@davidj898 He said one pair to send the voice, and one pair to receive the voice (utter nonsense). Clearly he was talking about a single analog POTS line, which uses one pair, Tip & Ring. Much of what he said was either incomplete or just plain wrong.
a solid conductor can transfer data at unheard of speeds. the problem is there is capacitave and inductive coupling that occurs corrupting the signal. the twist is for noise rejection and capacitance and inductive decoupling and the number of twists per inch is directly related to the data rate the cabling is to be used for. nothing worse than an old cable too close to a florescent light or next to a fan motor with a bad bearing. strong enough emp will corrupt any data! using the wrong cable is like trying to push a bowling ball through a garden hose. but great video as always!
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Lo impact is for keystones and punch down blocks with the same type pins so you have less chance of damaging the pins and the tabs. Hi impact is for your traditional 66 block type connections and uses more force to get to the board and cut the wires.
I have done some government wiring years ago and we had to certify each wire for it's speed capabilities, it would give you a pass or fail but also numbers for the speed it could transfer data. If you had too much untwisted wire the capabilities of the data cable would be diminished.
Great video and a lot of useful information, I always enjoy your videos.
Great explanation of the keystone jack, very informative. 3:10 "With ethernet you're only using 4 out of these 8 wires." That's partially correct. With 10/100 Mbit, you use 4 wires: 1 pair for TX and 1 pair for RX. But 1 Gbit uses all 8 wires: 4 bidirectional pairs. You can try this yourself by only connecting the 4 wires mentioned in the video (pin 1, 2, 3 and 6) and then connecting for example your laptop to your router. It will show that it's connected at 100 Mbit instead of 1 Gbit.
People used to cheat and run phones and such on the other pairs. This of course really screws over the next tech trying to figure out such madness. (I have seen four phone lines run a cat 5. Ugh)
A quick tip, once you expose the wires, use the string and pull it back to slit the sheaf. This prevents nicking of the twisted pairs. I usually use my scissors and cut into the first inch or so of the cable, find the string and pull it back. There are pass thru versions of the rj45 plug that make it easier to verify the pairs are correct. The crimper than cuts the excess cable.
Right! The string is used because usually exposing the wires causes nicking which isn't always noticeable. So I always just assume the wires have been nicked during exposing, and plan to throw that section away.
I never use a string but I've been doing it for many years.
People just have to learn to score the jacket and not cut it.
If you're only doing a few that's fine, if you're a few hundred The string gets very tedious
Yes, guaranteed way to ensure you didn't knick through and expose copper.. pull enough wire so you can strip back to clean wire and you won't be going back to fix it months later.
@@abc-bu7nr yes once you get the touch/ feel then great. But for a beginner I personally recommend them to use the pull string.
I recommend training people to use the string instead of using a stripper of some sort to pull of the sheaf. It sucks to have to reterminate later because of a break or short circuit. The best solution on course it to pay a contractor to do it, so you can focus on more important things. 😉 It's a good skill to know, especially for one off problems.
Gigabit Ethernet uses 8 wires (4 pairs). Only 100mbits and 10mbits ethernet leave 2 pairs unused, unless Power over Ethernet is implemented, then all 4 pairs are used again.
It is critical to get the wiring of all 4 pairs correct for Gigabit or 10Gigabit ethernet. It is also critical for systems that use Power over Ethernet.
Telephone lines only use one pair, they do not use two pairs. Telephone uses a multiplexing system and only needs two wires (one pair) to both send and receive. If you only use 4 wires ( 2 pairs) as described, you will only get a maximum of 100mbits speed.
:)
I was going leave a comment on POE. No reason to now.
What will all the correctors do. Sigh. Why don’t people correct themselves in the description at least or redo their videos where they say something incorrect. Why wouldn’t they catch that after they said it? Or while editing? Or when previewing it before uploading it? Is this guy a complete idiot? Well reason to not hire.
Thanks for the correction - I am trying to fix my home cat6 because the installer didn't give enough wire for keystone wall termination. Is workflow show in this video accurate enough for DIYer. It seems most people use color code B in America- Is that accruate?
@@ohcrapitsmrG I find the B code is used in most cases here (in Australia), but ultimately it doesn't matter as long as both ends of the cable run use the same code. A B wired cable will work fine in an A cabled socket. The main thing is that the cable uses the same code at both ends. It is best to use the same code throughout an installation of course :).
The main part of the workflow and information is fine in the video. It was just the information about unused pairs that had a little bug in it :)
This explains why my 600mbps internet is only giving me 98mbps out of the ethernet wall jack. I looked at the junction box and see only 4 wires connected and the other 4 wires wrapped around the cable.
Great video. A couple of updates to your information. The brown and blue pairs ARE used in networking for several things, not the least of which is PoE. Second, Telephone is full duplex over ONE twisted pair, the second pair is for a second line. I believe the Kevlar string is for strengthening the cable for pulling, though it is a convenient jacket splitter. The Crimp tool has two blades, one for scoring the jacket and one from cutting the ends off straight. Last, but not least, for electricians who are running the wire, be careful not to kink the wire. A kink will degrade or prevent the signals, and it is recommended that the wire be at least 12" from power wire when running parallel.
To piggyback a little, when it comes to untwisting the wires for the keystone, you want to keep as much twist as possible to avoid a high NEXT(near end crosstalk). When I do these I never untwist them completely, I just unwind a small section where it will be punched and set the entire pair together. I also use alot of Panduit minicom style connectors that have a whole separate method.
PoE is only delivered on the brown and blue pairs when the source of PoE power is a power inserter. If the source of PoE power is a network switch, then PoE will be delivered on the orange and green pairs. Which means that a PoE device powered from a switch, and for which 10/100 operation is sufficient (like an IP phone), only needs two pairs to work. I have taken advantage of this to run IP phones at 10 megabit using 3 pair telco wiring (leaving a pair free--if needed--for an analog fax line), leaving the cat5e drop free to run at gigabit speed for the desktop PC.
You may find another video on RUclips that explain more and does the work better of terminating. With the 568A and 568B this still matters and depends on what country you are in. POE Power over Ethernet. Is used in alot of area such as cctv and also to extend the distance and signal of the cable. The kevlar ribbon / string is used to strip for more cable
The string is nylon, not kevlar and is in fact for ripping the insulation.
no kinks no sharp bends. excesses should be looped. there is a standard for the radii depending on the category.
This IS the most helpful video for a novice!! Straightforward and very easy to follow. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Here’s something I would’ve added in, and done differently. you want to keep the twist in the cable as much as possible, or else they would not certify if tested. The best way to punch down a keystone is to leave them twisted, and make a small gap with your fingernail. It allows the pair to go into the keystone Slots, and is much easier to terminate since they won’t slip out. Also, it means the twist stay in the cable
Yes! Just started doing low voltage at work for the first time and was interesting every wire, it was time consuming, so I just asked one of our experienced Low Volt guys for a better way to do it and he said just what you said. Makes it easier and gives a better connection
That's the way I do it plus I use a tool that punches all pairs at the same time. Not to mention those wire cutters he uses makes me cringe.
You really should do a TDR / Bandwidth test on a completed run to prove cat rating compliance. Unlike electrical wiring which tends towards the work or “no work” conditions, data wiring has many more conditions and nuances that can greatly affect the final performance.
@@JZ6563 ;
Whew, ... I agree ...
That's why with the exception of large or medium businesses and some home office situations. For the average home I thank goodness for advances in WiFi and coax MoCA solutions today.
As wiring for Ethernet, and to meet all specs, is just too labor intensive and thus expensive. ...
I seriously doubt this guy has a quality certifier like the fluke I have. It set me back 10k, but its just a business expense lol.
Its nice to see an electrician who can actually terminate Cat 5/e/6 cable correctly. I would only add that those who are new to it, please get a proper Cat cable stripper. Also a good rule of thumb is to strip a portion of the cable off, then use the fibers inside (some cable brands use a plastic strip) to pull down and rip the cable as he demonstrated for about another 2 inches. The purpose of this is, because Cat cables are most typically 24 AWG wire, which is very thin, its easy to nick the inner sheathing on a cable when stripping the outer jacket. So by ripping the cable down another 2 inches from your initial strip, ensures that if you did nick a cable, then you are sure to get past it. (Especially if you do the bend method to brake the outer sheathing off like he does) If you do nick one of the inner jackets, then its almost a guaranteed chance the inner cable was nicked and severed. Its very easy to do. I've even seen the inner cable break in the sheathing due to over bending past the rate radius of the cable and cause signal issues over time.
Great video. It helped me out with what I needed. When cat5 and cat6 wires need to be terminated in the industrial industry I can add this under my belt. I also appreciate all the low voltage guys giving their input as well. One isn't complete with out the other...✌🏿
Informative. Useful. Calming. Inspiring. Life-changing. Enjoyable. Heart-warming. Other.
Cat5 "UTP" stands for *unshielded* twisted pair. Not "universal". And STP is, conversely, *shielded* twisted pair, referring to an RF shield wrapped around the wire bundle, under the outer jacket.
I was about to say the same thing it upsets me when people make videos but don't do a two second Google search to get the right acronym
He just spaced it ffs
@@spammanchan4622 it’s really not a big deal
Do i need an stp or an sftp if I'm going to wire it thru concrete walls via hoses? Or an UTP it's okay?
What do you expect, he's an electrician! They deal with mains electric cables.
95% of electricians won't even know what balanced transmission is.
A couple of tidbits to try to and help out any other DIY'ers. You want to avoid running UTP/CAT 5 parallel (next to) standard romex (considered high voltage, compared to low voltage CAT 5). Electrical wires can introduce EMI into your networking cables and cause issues. Also, with regard to testing, there is a huge difference in merely testing cable versus "certifying" cable. What is shown here in the video is a good simple test to make sure your pin-outs and terminations are correct but it doesn't actually validate that the run is capable of supporting gigabit speed.
you would have almost no interference happening even with UTP/CAT5 being side by side with insulated romex.
@@Sean-mc4iq False. EMI/RFI problems caused by parallel runs of AC wiring in close proximity to data cable are well documented. Standards for separation are based on scientific testing by EE's, and available online if you are a seeker of facts.
perpendicular runs if in proximity of romex. to certify cables it costs quite a bit to get the tester. ive wanted one but prohibitively expensive right now
I love these videos Dustin. They're great for someone like me who never worked on these before and is expected to know what I'm doing while in class when we had no prior instruction. Its just like read schematic and go, no lesson.
Way to be humble!
@@justinsouthworth1783 I am. I know my limits, and I'm just trying to learn.
Men, I'm watching your wonderful schooling and helping on and off for a long te now.
We need you and your wisdom
Never stop , keep on going - you are truly amazing bro!
Thanks for allcyou do .
Love your channel. Just so you know, a phone line is only two conductors. The four pins are for locations with two phone lines. The "full duplex" capability of telephones is really quite a clever design, but it uses two conductors.
Also, gigabit ethernet uses all 8 conductors, as does POE Power over ethernet.
All that said, your videos are great 👍
The handset cable has 4 conductors, though.
yes sir, ty! as a Verizon man, i was like "hmmm, so guys like him are why I'm out", and that's NOT to disparage him, he's an electrician, and smarter than I!
@@aredditor4272 its for 2 lines. green/red in center are "line 1", yellow/black outside of that is "line 2" if you have a 2 line phone and 2 phone number, otherwise there are up to 4 pairs for a 4 line phone. or a single pair over 120vdc for a PBX system, but thats a whole other thing.
@@MyUserTubeAccount or, for twisted pairs, the blue pair is line 1 (solid blue: ring, white/blue: tip) orange pair is line 2, green pair is line 3, brown pair is line 4.
@@MrThinking4myself not on the handset cord side. it was green(tip) red(ring) on line 1, yellow(tip) black(ring) line 2. talking old Bell 2pr i.w., when cat3 came, yes, bl/or/gr/br
It's critical for electricians to know how cat cable is terminated and tested. I'm retired now but as an electrician you will open more doors of opportunity. Cat cable is used for TV's, Surveillance Cameras, N-light wall pods and so much more. I was never that good at terminating RJ45's but when I started using the pass throughs it was real easy to do. Thanks for sharing. Sharing is caring.
Don’t untwist pairs when doing the jacks , only for the plugs
You made this look so easy. My son has been asking for a cable connection in his room for his tv and laptop. Wi-Fi is too slow for downloading he said. Now I know how to connect these plugs. Nice video
One thing I've learned is that the string inside the cable, called a "rip cord", is there to literally rip the sheathing. So after you strip off like 2" of sheath, you should grasp the string and rip down another 2 inches or so... then chop off the conductors BELOW where you stripped the sheath. The reason for this is because in your initial stripping of the sheath, there was some risk you nicked one or more inner conductors. So the rip cord stripping of the sheath comes closer to guaranteeing good inner conductors.
If you are knicking the conductors, you do not belong in the field terminating.
@@dawudasha977 If you use the rip cord in the cable as you should, there is much less chance that anyone--including those in the field of terminating--will nick the conductor. Thanks for your reply!
@@dawudasha977 yeah if youre not out risking $100k recabling on a 95% certainty, skill based protocol vs. a 99% certainty, fool-proof protocol youre not a "real" field tech right?
fuck off
@@dawudasha977 If you're not using the rip cord and stripping back you definitely do not belong in the field terminating. I can't even begin to tell you how many terminations I've had to redo behind "experienced" cable installers when networks start experiencing intermittent outages months and sometimes years after the cables were initially installed.
@@DrD6452 Then why are you? Sorry couldn't help myself...
Highly recommend the EZ-RJ45 connector. After you've stripped, untwisted and attempted to insert the conductors, on the EZ-RJ45 you can insert the conductors through the end of the EZ-RJ45, allowing you to confirm the colour orientation.
And you need a different crimper/cutter
As a professional in the low-volt industry, stay away from these pass-through EZ-RJ45 ends. A lot of manufacturers will void the warranty on their product if they find that you used an EZ-Jack.
@@JustinBallou01 And how would they know? And how would you damage equipment bad enough with a bad male end to require a warranty replacement?
@@JustinBallou01 Which manufacturers would those be? Pass-through "EZ" ends are where it's at (especially when your eyes succumb to a high birthday count).
I hit the buzzer at about 3:05. Only 10Mbps and 100Mbps Ethernet use 2 pair; Gigabit or higher use all 4 pair, as does anything running 802.3ab/at/bt. Your IT content is circa the 1990s even if your Electrical content is contemporary. There's a good reason why a totally separate set of training and certification is required to legally install Cat6+ (at least in Australia) as there are many factors that matter and differ from Cat5e and below. Your tester only shows polarity, not impedance, distance or a host of other factors that go into a correctly installed cable., Cat6a+ is another story again as you have to take into account bundle limits as well. I respect electricians for what they know but believe that they should either get fully certified as data cablers or get a specialist to do this sort of work.
I fully agree that certification should be required for data installations. As an electrician I’m not afraid to admit I’m far more comfortable dealing with 600 volts than I am with 30 volts. That being said, I’ve done my own cabling at home using Dustin’s tools and techniques. All my lines work perfectly fine. I’d do same for buddies, but I wont do it for clients unless they completely understand that I’ll give it the “old college try” but it might not work and they would then have to contact a data guy to troubleshoot.
I was just trying to learn a bit about this stuff to test my cat6 jack that isn't working in my office. Although i've pretty well determined that i'll just wait for our data guy to come and inspect/repair it, as a student of many things, i found this super interesting and well-taught. Good job!
Thanks so much. I'm about to wire our house with Cat6 and this was concise enough to get me going. Now I know what those strange tools are for!
@@RolandWartenberg True, I get it done over time when I can see the parts.
I wish I could like this video twice. Just what I was about to search for.
Phones only use 2 conductors. Always use the rip cord and strip the jacket back. Wires almost always get nicked during the score. Gigabit and PoE use all 8 conductors. When wiring jacks don't untwist the wires as the twist needs to remain as close as possible to termination points in order to pass certification.
Thank you!!! This is the BEST video I've ever seen on this subject!! Great job.
Hey mate you got the basic there just would like to say the blue pair is for voice and the brown pair is power eg cameras use POE power over Ethernet which is the brown pair WAPS in buildings also use POE. Also with the male RJ45 it is best to put the rubber protector on which you see on you testers jumpers these protectors help stop the cable wires from breaking up close to the RJ45 crimp. Now as for A & B A is the Australian standard and still used heaps in Australia but you are correct as long as you wire it the same both ends it will pass and work anyway I enjoyed you how too it was good hope this helps you or someone reading comments and keep up the goo work
To say that the Blue is for voice and the Brown is for PoE is wrong. PoE uses the outer pairs of wires for 802.3at and 802.3af but uses all for pairs for the 802.3bt. (NEVER is less than two pairs used.) This is the Orange pair and Brown pair for EIA/TIA-568B. If you use Cat5e wire with RJ-45 for POTS, then the Blue pair is line 1, Orange for line 2, Green for line 3 and Brown for line 4. (It spells BLOG with the Brown pair last and understood.) This order is the same in your 66 block. www.black-box.de/en-de/page/23894/Resources/Technical-Resources/Black-Box-Explains/lan/PoE-in-Networking
There is a lot to learn in proper networking that cannot be covered in a 25 minute RUclips video. Unfortunately, there is a LOT of misinformation put out on these videos and especially by user comments. There are several good certifications for network cabling, such as BICSI being tops and some vendor certifications like Fluke. The LOWEST certification level requires about 50 hours of classroom training followed by a two-hour written exam and hands-on testing.
The keystone has a "puck" that provides a little wider footprint for punching down and it protects the tab from being broken. It can be difficult to get the keystone jacks into and out of the puck when they are brand new, but it does help.
Senior sys and network engineer here, came to watch an electrician terminate cat cable and was surprised by how much he did right! Kudos bro! Didnt use pass through rj45 ends!
I always use passthrough, it annoys me to no end to re-terminate.
@@cravenmorehead8755 just do it right and you won't have to reterminate
That's a good point on the TIA-568 A vs B. In datacomm these days we are always using B. I still run into old Bell system guys that use A because that's always what they used. One of the first times I worked with one of the greybeards, he was punching down in A at the patch panel and the rest of us were punching down in B out at the jacks. Luckily we caught it early after only like 10 drops had been punched, another win for safety/slack loops. Also, for my experience in 15 years I've never had the need for the strippers and found them a little bulky. I've found a nice set of electricians scissors to be easier to use and handle on big jobs.
A vs B is a debate that's been raging for a while. I personally use 568A as it's compatible with 2pair phone wiring, but end of the day whatever my customer is using on premises is what I work to.
Actually, the other 4 wires on the Ethernet cable can be used for power delivery via PoE standards and injectors, if separate from your router, bridge or switch.
Here's what I'm talking about:
planetechusa.com/power-over-ethernet-poe-demystifying-mode-a-and-mode-b/
Nice man , good explanation , your video is much appreciated , it helped me
NEVER untwist the pairs when doing a keystone jack, most good keystone jacks have a points top for each pair, just use that to separate the pairs leaving the twist intact, place all the pairs in the corresponding slots then punchdown all the pairs. This is done to maintain the high speed of the network, do to any untwisting slows the speed down.
what about the keystone jack, if i use the cat5 jack on a cat6 cable? is there a big difference? because... the cat6 jacks are 3 times more expensive than cat5 jack (1$ - 3/4$)
@@xxxARBiHxxx you can loose speed with the lower grade cat 5e jack, with cat 6 cable.
@@davet6745 yep... but I'm not sure if the difference is that big just because of the connector...
@@davet6745 I've used Cat5e Keystones with Cat6A cable and use 10Gb with no speed loss. Only because I didn't have the correct jack with me. But it is not the end of the world.
@@ThePirateGod100mb or 1000mb a.k.a. gigabyte ethernet, then the connectors make a big difference, I have seen speed loss with mismatched connectors when testing and certifying a system. Maybe on a short run cable there might not be a problem.
I'm supposed to be starting a job doing this type of work next week. I know nothing about it but after watching this I can honestly walk in with more confidence than I had before I watched this video. Great teaching bro. Thank you my man. $20a hr here I come.
This Video explains the reason why companies hire network technicians to do the network wiring and not electricians.
EXACTLY! I can spend the next 100 years fixing electrician's low-voltage/networking attempts.
Exactly I took electrical and network cabling teq I can see that it isn’t terminated correctly
And my experience says that electricians always need to clean up after network techs after they were climbing around all our conduit messing up absolutely everything.
So the best thing is to have the electricians pull the wires after some instructions and then let a specialist terminate them. Absolutely not one of those guys dwelling in an office clunking a keyboard all day long. They are the worst and should not be near a site until the switches are to be but in. Not even patching is done right.
Yes, second I saw the headline I said oh crap, electrician who needs his balls busted for playing data guy. Sure enough this guy makes every mistake in the book.
Worthy mention to some of the other comments, unless the data guys were formally trained, it’s just a flunky IT guy who thinks he knows how to run and manage cable.
@@j2o3shI see a lot of messed up cable plants and others that make you scratch your head wondering how much $ and time was poured into the pristine detail work. And when I see things like that, I respect the tradesman’s efforts but it usually begs the question of how much planning and thought was really poured into it, and at who’s expense. If its beautiful but lacks forethought, it isn’t adding value. It was a data guy taking someone for a ride.
Usually I’m brought in at a directors level to clean up someone else’s mess. There is a vast difference between being highly trained vs understanding requirements, client needs, and seeing around the corner for whats coming down the pike. My perspective in unique in this way.
What I saw in this video specifically was the typical electrician, using subpar data products for their install demo, untwisting pairs, crimping riser cable? I mean come on. If I see crimpers anywhere, they are promptly thrown in the trash.
There are many different ways to skin a cat, and in the data world, there are many different ways to install cable. Some of them good, some just okay, and many bad with little forethought. These overall mistakes are repeated over and over and over again. And it makes me wonder. “Why”
I already knew what I was about to see before I watched this video. It didn’t disappoint.
Do not use riser - Industry Certified Plenum Only! And use the higher MHZ rated stuff. Plenum performs better.
Crimp Nothing or Be Crimped. Use a keystone and biscuit. Hey you can label it, imagine that. Crimps Create a point of failure.
Use ICC keystone jacks. They make
an install Mitt for them. The pairs are in order. Why make the job harder?
Use ICC EZ Panels rather than patch panel. Color code it!
Smack the IT guy when your done and provide 1ft booted patch cords, color coded, matching the brand of your keystone. (It matters) the products were designed as a system by engineers.
T568B Only - A was an old AT&T standard. Why create any confusion on a site? Why would anyone even suggest that?
All pairs are used with 10/100/1000 and POE standards.
I buy the EZ45J plugs so I can pull each wire through the plug.
When I crimp them down the crimping tool I use cuts the excess wires off.
The wires are hard for me to see so I put on a head mounted magnifier which makes things BIG.
FYI: the brown/brown white is used for POE. So if your using something like an IP phone or security camera, some will/can derive their power from a switch via POE, so if you mess up the brown/brown white wire and ignore it, though it will not affect a computer, it will not provide power to a phone or camera.
You forgot pins 4&5 the blue/blue white pair…. It too is part of the POE . That is of course.. if you are using anything POE
I was looking for this info and bam it is here lol.
Easy tip to untwist the pairs is to use that piece of the jacket you just stripped off. Just slide it between the wires of a pair. It will naturally unwind the cable without having to do much twisting. You can also then slide it over both wires, pinch them, and then pull it off while pinching. This will get the wires relatively close to each other and straighten them out without having use additional tools or risk knicking them on your shears.
I have only seen that used recently while ¯＼◔ー◔/¯ for vids for middle school kids to learn. I’m anxious to try it. Since 96, been old school and untwist by hand. Also straightening with fingers (and why I haven’t used the scissors or screwdriver to straighten wires is beyond me as I do that with many other electrical projects.
Guess breaking old habits or teaching an old dog new tricks need some getting used too. Today, I do this seldom, if I need a cable at home or teaching a class 😏
Ops the first ops. I love your videos so far. Telephones only used one pair, the blue white pair. I spent 30 years doing and started to electric work in 1960, yes I am that old.
Second have you ever used the pass-thru RJ-45 plugs, I wish I would have years ago. But, the pass-thru you do not cut the wire, they pass-thru the plug and the crimper will gut the wires flush.
Crimpin’ ain’t easy, but you make it look so easy. Thanks for the lesson!
Thanks for the video man! You missed a good opportunity to do a over the shoulder first person view when you were explaining the termination. That little bit of “my left, your right” will add a little bit of frustration when trying to learn an already tedious task. Thanks again for the help
just to add something , one of the twisted pairs he mentioned not being used can also be used as POE (power over Ethernet) and can be used to power things such as CCTV cameras ect. great vid!
Send, Recieve, Power, Future
Keep the twist as much as possible, it's an balance pair where the twist on the two conductors balances the inductance and capacitance to keep the impedance where it needs to be. Not to mention common mode rejection of the twisted pair. Untwist and you create an impedance lump. So keep it twisted as much as possible. Yes someone can come by and say that's not precisely right, feel free.
Absolutely correct.
Ahhh so it's impedance and inductance! Interesting how this produces the desired effect! Anyone care to elaborate to save me searching? 🤔
Love watching your channel man you do a great job very professional and very informative. However there's a couple things I noticed in this video. Standard pots or plain old telephone service only uses one pair of wires per line. Both the receiving and the transmitting happens over a modulated carrier signal. Works in both directions. The reason why a typical rj-11 has four wires in it is really just for two lines that's why some plain old telephones can use a standard 4-pin plug and you can have two lines. Also at the beginning you said 40 GB. Giga and Bytes . That's roughly 10 times faster than 40 gbits. It's gigabits not gigabytes. But your point about how the different quality and construction of the different categories of UTP cable provide faster data throughput is the point you were trying to make and you did a great job on the whole video is great. Keep up the great work.
One thing that's helpful to untwist the wires, is to use the sheathing you just pulled off the cable and run it down in between each of a twisted pair.
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@@ronaldnolasco7792 what is that supposed to mean?
Great video. Having never run Cat5 cables this information helped me succeed!
The string in the cat5 cable is a strength member. It is common to have strength cords in cables that will pulled or hung and where the conductors on not strong enough to hold things together.
I was going to mention that the string was mainly for pulling the cable through conduit, but no need now that you have done it...
I really like how you put the emphasis on JR---rrrrrrrrrrr lol. Great vid man.
I was told by my data teacher at the university that he was on the team that AT&T sent to the standards conference, when the conference established the 568 standard that we know today as 568A Att objected because they had already established their own standard (258A) and objected that it would not be the standard, the end was to have both an A and a B standard to accommodate AT&T.
The pairs are also important, Pair 1 the blue pair Pins 4 and 5 on a 568 cable initially carried a standard telephone line. Pair 2 (the orange pair, pins 1 and 2) was transmit data and pair 3 the Green Pair, Pins 3 and 6 was Receive data, a crossover cable was for connecting equipment such as two switches (both expect to transmit data on pair 2) together, the crossover was to crossover transmit to receive and receive to transmit. Pair 4 the brown pair was unused. We could make two network connections by creatively using the blue and orange pairs for a second connection.
AT&T also was using 258A for their telephone systems that had (hybrid) telephone sets and used one pair for voice (pair 1) another pair to send data to the telephone set (lights, date/time etc) and a third pair to send data from the telephone set tot he phone system (digits dialed, buttons pushed etc. ) and the last pair for power. as the systems got more complex the need for 4 pairs dropped to 3 then 2 and finally 1 pair. the telephone techs had to know a bunch of standards and how they worked.
Thanks , I was searching for a wire-mapping for female-male end ethernet patch cable, and your video beautifully shows the stuff.
On the keystone jack you are not supposed to untwist them all the way. The more twist left behind, the higher the signal quality.
It makes no difference.
Damned sparky stay away from my work.😜
@Default User a quarter inch is something that is literally impossible to test for, get off your high horse.
@@dr_kellogg , ''a quarter inch is something that is literally impossible to test for''.......I would have to agree.
Get a tester and test and the the loss you get and you will see. It makes a difference!
Second comment when terminating keystone jacks is that you want to maintain the twist as long as you can. This means keeping the pairs twisted all the way up to the punch down terminal as best as possible. You also want to keep all the cables as close to the same length as possible which means instead of laying the cable at 90 degrees to the block like shown here, you want to come straight in on it. The same goes for punch down panels as well. You can see that the keystone cap is designed for the cable to come straight it at it. Never bend the cable back up afterwards either as it will pull them loose. When taught this, it keeps cross talk down. The proper standard is to keep the pairs twisted always, use a pick tool (looks almost like a dentist pick but plastic) and separate a small opening between the pairs where they need to connect in the punch down. Since keystone jacks and punch panels always keep the pairs together (only crossing the connections internally as needed) this makes the best for least cross talk. Cat cable is so fine and the more cable exposed from the outer sheathing, the more the potential for cross talk. This isnt as bad in 10Mb/100Mb and even most 1000Mb configurations but def a must for 10Gb and higher. In fact cabling for them are sticker and have shielding internally to the wire as well. A proper 1000$ tester will pass the connections shown here for but report they have cross talk and reduced signal strength even though they make connection and are wired correctly per color code.
Some keystones from reputable companies, come with instructions showing to lay the cable at 90 degrees and bending the cable back up.
@@velocityacoustics You should never bend the cable after termination as it can and will cause the termination to pull lose. Also when coming out at a 90 degree, you cannot guarantee each run is of equal length which is something you should always attempt to maintain is equal length cables from the sleeve. You cant trust the producer of a key stone jack over industry standards.
@@Koorisin I agree that terminating the wires straight into the keystone is the right "by the book" way. But I can tell you that in the real world, chances are it will not make a difference. These things are not that fragile. They designed for the rigors of installation. Think about when you are installing a keystone wall plate. You don't think that pressure is exerted on the wires? The IDC connectors have a very firm grip on the wires, plus with the snap on cap, that wire is not going anywhere. You would have to be very forceful with the wire for it to come loose. As for equal length of the wires, that minute amount of wiring is insignificant in 90 percent of installations.
@@velocityacoustics I do this stuff every day. I can show you our new building where lazy installers did the same thing and upon pressing the wall plates back into the wall and tieing them down, we had a number of them come lose. Most on the blue/white
The male ends are always a pain..but, a while back, I started using the pass through ends. I know for those that have been doing this forever, they will call that cheating and are used to the systems demonstrated here...but, the pass through are just as good...and they are way easier (and more importantly, faster) to get terminated.
With the pass through you can also pull the untwisted portion all the way through and thus maintain the twist of each balanced pair as close to the compression/piercing connection of the gold pins at the end as possible.
well, " just as good " is yet to be determined, I'm a little concerned for those in high humidity areas, oxidization on the exposed and unprotected ends..
Even the folks at Ideal say its a "wait and see in 5 or 10 years time" type thing as to how being exposed affects them.
@@Ressy66 I admit I use passthru ends it's too easy and I can make 10 patch cables in the time I can make 1 standard style end. Haha. On exterior projects, outdoor A/P, security cameras, ETC i have started just putting the faintest amount of dielectric grease on the exposed end, I have been doing it for a couple years and have had zero issues, call backs, down time. When doing routine maintenance nothing looks abnormal. I live on acreage and have zero cell service so I rely on wifi. I have deployed the same methods at my own home without fail well except cutting a direct bury cable in half that was over a 100ft run lol.
@ Tarek Now that's a neat idea, I might make a couple (supplier gave me bag of 50 once when they were new to them) and dab the ends of some, and some not, then just wait and see in 6/12/24/+ months if there's a difference. We're in a hot and humid climate, near ocean, so a good test to see how they hold up.
I'll do some inserted, and some "spares" that are truly exposed to air.
(Ohh and I know what you mean about time to make normal, my hands are not that small, and its a PITA to keep them in order sometimes :)
The older my eyes get, the better I like pass-throughs.
By far the best and clearest video I've seen on this subject. Thank you! Excellent video editing, too.
also, gigaBIT ethernet uses ALL 8 WIRES.
I believe some of them are for POE.... Power over ethernet
Pins 7&8 are POE
@@isaacbull8653 And 10g uses all of them cuy poe is not possible with 10g over copper
Haha give him a break we are the nerds haha he is probably installing for standard use
@@isaacbull8653 I thought the same but regular POE can be carried over only the orange and green pairs (pairs 1 & 2, 3 &6) for 568B. I only know this because I've been able to get Cisco 3602 WAPs online using 2 pair hydra cables. All this tells me is that I don't understand how POE works. Or Cisco does something with their switches where POE is sent on all 4 pairs, so whatever end device you are using can get power over any pair.
Amazing. I never knew the reason for the specific wire twist was to separate or eliminate cross talk. I assumed the plastic center strip was there to space the wires farther apart. This also explains why I have spliced signal wires in the past and they didnt work... all because I untwisted the wires and left them straight or the 2 wires joined together had different twists.
(all about the details!!!)
Stick a small precision flat head screwdriver in between the twisted pair wires and slide them apart. Its so much faster than twisting them apart by hand. Just a little tip.
Bingo! And use that to straighten them as well.
or use the jacket that you just stripped off to untwist....most of the time I don't untwist at all unless its going into male rj45....
I'm Glad I went to cabling/fiber school in 2001 to learn all the theory behind this.
Could talk about shielded / unshielded, plenum rated cable, exterior cable, etc.
Colin Stuart good idea for another video
@Rezheer Kirkuky it depends on the application. If I never run less than cat6. If you are around hvac and air passageways you are required by code to run plenum because it is smoke/fire resistant and obviously you don't want smoke or fire around oxygen ;) If you need higher data rate like 10g ethernet i would be running cat7 or better. If you have long (300+ ft) cable runs maybe cat6a minimum for example. It all depends on the application.. if you are running cable between levels of a building.... you would by code need "riser" cable which is a very common form. If network cable is not rated it is for general purpose runs on the same floor and not to be run though walls.
@@CarsonSuite what would you use for outdoor ?
@@gusc6785 they make a outdoor version of all of these cables.... if you are linking buildings i would recommend cat7 (but really fiber) but if its just to a device (camera or rf device) cat6 would be perfect :) All depends on the application tell me what you are doing and I might be able to give more insight :)
@@CarsonSuite just PoE cameras residential, longest run approx.. 190ft. Some will be exposed to weather but very small section of it.... 2 of which will be in raceway underground. ( do you recommend metal or pcv for raceway)?
Wow that was actually really interesting, thank you. I've been really interested in just normal power, but this actually piqued my interest into network cabling/LV. Thanks!
Never let electrician wire or finish the cabin or rack. 50% of time we always have to return and rip it out.
If the work is done good and tested properly then you would not need to return to. I do agree with you that over the years as a electrician I have seen dodgy work.
What you mean to say is that half of the problems you have encountered have been to poor installations by electricians, that does not mean half the networks installed by electricians are bad.
Yes there are poor data installations but not all of them have been carried out by electricians there also also data bad engineers, or are you saying they don't exist?
Having worked in both industries I think that two day course is long enought to learn all you need to know about data networks, the rest is experience in wiring and containment installation, knowing how to create a route and the best method in wiring to it to conform to wiring regulations. Not just throwing a loom over a suspended ceiling often passing straight over a florescent light fitting (when they were more common) which I have witnessed on many occasions.
The bottom line is it really is'nt rocket science and a half decent electrician will get a hold of it very quickly because cabling is a good part of our trade.
@@keithwilliamsWilf it's just my two cents. 25 years in the telecom / IT field , in the Bay area and as a owner of one of these these businesse. That's the data that I've concluded.
Thanks for taking the time to help others understand eithernet connections.
UTP = Unshielded Twisted Pair
Basically indoor Ethernet cables
Using shielded cable unless you have equipment that supports it can do more harm then good. Utp should be used 99% of the time for normal users,unless you know you have grounded equipment
Yeah, I cringed when he said Universal
Do keystone jacks reduce speeds or ping? I have fiber running to my modem in the garage, then a 20-foot ethernet to a keystone jack, then a jumper(small Ethernet cord) to the router, then another 30-foot ethernet to my Xbox. I'm trying to get the lowest latency possible. Does the keystone jack make a difference? Is cat8 overkill? Any help would be awesome, you seem very knowledgeable on this stuff.
27 years in the Electrical trade, For the last 5 or 6 years I have done far more datacomm work than I do regular electrical work these days. Not on purpose, it has just worked out that way ((((( Just a tip, You can buy one of those FLUKE punchdown tools at OfficeDepot for much cheaper than what they cost at a Electrical supply store. Why OfficeDepot is able to sell those for so much cheaper than everyone else, I don't know how they're able too, but they do. ((( One of my co-workers told me about them being cheaper at OfficeDepot is how I found out, I didn't even know that OfficeDepot sold Fluke products until he told me. (they don't actually stock them in the store, but they will order it for you, takes 2-3 days for it to come in)
get a set of klien punch down you wont be sorry so much better then a lot you can catch a combo pack at times and save big time
Thank you for really helping me understand ethernet cable.
This is a great CAT5 termination video. Your clear explanation and great closeup of how to lay the wires flat for interesting in the RJ45 plug are excellent.
But this is not a "CAT6, CAT 7, CAT 8" video. These higher cat levels have much stricter termination requirements and use different physical RJ45 connectors. Once you go above 1 Gbps, a more sophisticated Ethernet analyzer is a must to verify the performance of the lines. Something more than a simple continuity tester like the LAN Scout Jr.
Finally a proper video
Punch down has HIGH/LOW impact for a reason. You always you low on any plastic punch down block and high on all metal punch down blocks. The low is so you don't break the plastic connector
Thanks so much I've learnt a lot, i love making my own net cables so i can choose my own cable and connectors so i dont have to drill a massive hole in the outside of my house as i dont have to get the pre made connectors through.
Would have been great if you linked the tools you used, so we could "assemble" our field kits.
Thank you. This vedio has everything i need to know. Just need to figure out wiring it without the punch down and crimp tools.
I thought he was going to get to further standards than just CAT5...
I thought the same.. No shielding at all
The real challenge comes with CAT7A (not only the cables but also Cat.7 A capable Jacks like GG45)
Just as well he didn’t move on from Cat5 ‘cos he obviously doesn’t understand it
@@paulphillips675 some electricians have been known to botch up network cable installs because they are borrowing knowledge from the RJ11 days,
I've seen phone splice connectors being used inside of ethernet installs (really bad!)
This is why people pay for a proper network guy such as Cisco certified to get things done right the first time
The unused wires act as shielding and increase external signal rejection. As has been noted by others the string is for strength, not to take jacket off.
A vs B. As long as both ends are terminated the same way, you will get signal. B is theoretically better than A for outside signal rejection, although in practice, how well you do the termination is more important. Remember that twisted pair is a cheap substitute for coaxial cable. Also termination of coax is more difficult
Coaxial ethernet died in the 90's, let it go.
it's called a ripcord and you are supposed to use it otherwise there is a chance you nicked the wiring when you took the insulation off.
only noobs use ripcords
@@tzd1917 lol I don't even use strippers or ripcords.....i just put a nick the shielding with my scissors and it snaps right open.....
@@joshuawolfe7763 #metoo
@5.56 Bear Yeah, I just use my snips. Never had an issue nicking wires.
I have a bunch of wall-faceplate-connected RJ45 sockets and the other end of them cable, in a different room, unterminated. Is there a better way of finding out whether they are all (hopefully the same) A or B type pin-outs at the wall-socket end so I can put the right wiring pin-out plugs on the unterminated ends, than to assume one (B most likely, they were done in the last year or two) and put the plug on and use a wiring tester to find out - have to take it off again and waste a plug probably if I'm wrong (I have a multimeter but that seems kinda fiddly).
I think the biggest thing that electricians should take away from any training they get on how to run CATx cable, is bend radius. Network cable is NOT doorbell cable, you can't bend it around a 2x4 like you can doorbell cable, it needs a gentle bend (1" radius at the absolute minimum) otherwise you'll damage the cable internally and guys like me who work with this stuff for a living will come behind you cursing at the (expletive) sparky who forced me to re-pull a cable (always fun behind drywall) because it wasn't installed correctly.
And if you really want to make us datacom guys happy (sing your praises) when doing commercial rough ins, run some 1/2" or 3/4" conduit into an outlet box so we can do our pulls easily. You know what it's like to fish MC through finished walls, we don't like it either. :-)
Lol. You got that right. Bends were one thing. Having staples driven through the cables and trying to hide it was annoying as heck. Made my electricians pull a whole new 200’ run for not telling me. I could have fixed where it was (micrscan tester is awesome for detection and where). They needed the practice. And we had a saying in the Navy. “ never enough time to do it right the first time, but ALL the time in the world to do it over and over. Plus I was doing installs and first stop was Pearl Harbor. Was in no hurry as it was winter time 😏
@@stemmentor9700 I have a cable certifier (not the expensive $5000 Fluke model) that can detect shorts or cuts, and uses TDR to determine length so I can estimate where the break is. Always at the point where there's no slack anyways, so gotta pull a new run.
Watched the entire video. Very good!
He's a typical electrician, does everything caveman style.
Dude, this guy is a pro and does things as clean and as well done as humanly possible. Structured cabling just isn't his profession, he's an electrician...but I'm guessing electricians sometimes do this work. Unless they are very knowledgeable on both fronts, however, it's not something that they should be doing. But your remark was completely unfair, not even remotely accurate, and uncalled for.
Super helpful I'm electronic guy but I just successful connected my lines thanks man
The pairs should remain twisted as much as possible
www.electricaltouch.com cat5 cat6 cat6a Malta network utp cable for cctv and network
Instead of untwisting with your fingers, try this: take a small flathead screwdriver, stick the screwdriver between a pair, and pull the twist out. They will be completely straight except for the tip which you can then cut off.
The best ($) connectors for efficiency are EZ RJ45 connectors, along with their crimpers. The connectors are open on both ends so you don't have to cut the wires down to length, they just pass through the other side. The crimpers have a blade on it, so when you go to crimp, it cuts the excess wire off for you.
"Unshielded twisted pair" come on bro you get the name of what you're talking about wrong in the first sentence??
Dude, so cool. I've never seen this before. Thanks man!
You bet!
12:53 This is the worst tutorial-music I have ever heard! 😖
I want to hear it at a rave
It literally does not matter what order the colors are in. As long as they perfectly match on each terminated end. The device with the network port isn't going to flip out when a green is in the normally blue/white pin location. Its just copper wires. Ensure each wire is in the same location on both ends and the colors won't matter for anything but for nitpicking purists. the actual conductor pads on the rj45 jack lets you know which signal line it's using.
Keeping the 568A or 568B config is just for those that don't know the above info.
Yes & No. Will it work? Yes, but you are asking for trouble by not following standard practice. You are opening yourself up to making errors. Not only that, let's say down the road you need to fix one keystone termination. When you go to fix it, you are going to need to remember whatever janky order you used. It's best to just follow the standards to avoid such messes and doesn't make anyone else who might work on it pull their hair out.
While you can strip the way he shows, I would recommend getting a stripper designed specifically for this. It's cheap and MUCH easier.
Got any recommendations??
@@curtflirt2 Just try Amazon.com and type in "Cat5 Stripping Tool" in the search box. Pick the one that looks the easiest for you to use. The one you get should be adjustable, not all cable is exactly the same diameter. Even though I typed Cat5 above, it works for Cat6 also.
@@curtflirt2 I use this one all the time at work as I do a lot of CAT 5/5e/6 cabling at work. A lot of other's one's cut too deep which nicks the inner insulation. Only time I use the deeper cutting ones are when I do outdoor cable rated for direct burial or overhead (aerial) runs. The jackets on those are thick. www.platinumtools.com/products/strippers/twisted-pair-strippers/cat-5-6-cable-jacket-stripper-15015c/
@@TheDrew2022 okay, cool, thanks
I am a certified installer for several different manufacturer's there is a difference with tia 568a and b. You should not mix the 2 when running Gb speeds. Also use the specialized for proper termination
my boss would cry out loud...
LOL
very much educational.. no hurry and detailed. \thank you
This comment section.
"IT'S xxxxBITTTTTTT!!!"
Brilliant video. Thanks for posting
You are incorrect about networking not using all 8 wires , in half duplex what you say is true but now most connections are Full Duplex and it uses all 8 with twice the throughput!
Half duplex and full duplex still only used 2 pairs. Gigabit is when they started to use all four pairs.
Great video needed a refresher appreciate you!
OMFG .... where do I start ....
@04:47 WTF? no, most of the rest of the world uses "A" ,, also of note US Govt Buildings must only be cabled in "A"
There are couple other things wrong with the first few minutes too, all 4 pairs ARE used for data in the gigabit ranges.. and 2 pairs for phone systems? analog requires one pair, 2 pair is for some pabx's or old phones with 2 lines though.
cat 5 is no longer a standard, its been removed, but commonly used term cat "5" used now days is the meaning of cat "5e"
@7:28 no ,no no ,NO. you NEVER EVER trust you have not nicked those pairs, the draw string is so when you cut the sheath, you DO pull down and snip off just below where you scored the sheath, meaning you have no possible way of using a pair that been nicked that WILL cause you problems at some point if not right away, I have failed certifications because installers have been sloppy and not followed the correct method and nicked a pair or three
@18:11 I'm glad you put the cable "just inside" the jacks - many installers dont, so big plus there, but. it is very important to keep the twists as close to the punchdown point as possible.
568b is The BICSI standard for all Telecom/data terminations. 568a is generally only used for government buildings.
BICSI is not universal, applicable to the USA, "B" standard is not used in Asia, Australia, New Zealand, or any EU country that I know, except Russia
@@Ressy66 okay sorry, I'm from the "silicon valley."
oh youre forgiven then.
B is used in Norway!
Absolutely awesome. Thanks for the video. Very clear. Great detail. Exactly what I was looking for
Industrial Electrician here, and even I had to stop watching when he said phones use 4 wires to work... only 2 are used Tip & Ring...
Yes I jumper 2 wires(pair) everyday on the Central Office Frame.
If you are using a business phone it can 2 wire/1 pair 4 wire/2 pair or if an older system 6 to 8 wire/ 3 to four pair. If you're using VoIP with PoE then all pairs of course. Done them all!!
@@davidj898 Well i was referring to the service providers. As far as I know the vast majority of all them are a pair to supply unless they are VOIP. You are talking about PBX systems and even "old" pbx systems like nortel which are super common only use 1 pair... and I know other digital / analog systems line panasonic, AVAYA, and so on only used a pair.
@@davidj898 He said one pair to send the voice, and one pair to receive the voice (utter nonsense). Clearly he was talking about a single analog POTS line, which uses one pair, Tip & Ring. Much of what he said was either incomplete or just plain wrong.
a solid conductor can transfer data at unheard of speeds. the problem is there is capacitave and inductive coupling that occurs corrupting the signal. the twist is for noise rejection and capacitance and inductive decoupling and the number of twists per inch is directly related to the data rate the cabling is to be used for. nothing worse than an old cable too close to a florescent light or next to a fan motor with a bad bearing. strong enough emp will corrupt any data! using the wrong cable is like trying to push a bowling ball through a garden hose. but great video as always!
Pro Tip: Don't tell your wife/girlfriend that you ordered a stripper. Thank me later.
I did but thankfully I'm happily divorced now!
Order two....in the event you lose one.
Feed thru RJ-45 modular plugs are the way to go!