@@syvekhezeiahjanebesidas7329 , I concur. I've never done shielded. Something tells me it will be necessary in the future. I was impressed by how easy the new passthrough connectors are for UTP until I saw this with the load bar. This seems just as easy, doesn't require me to buy a new passthrough crimper and I get a better cable.
@@syvekhezeiahjanebesidas7329 depends on the connector he uses. that connector didn't look like it would allow the conductors to protrude through the end of the connector.
This is super refreshing after watching videos by electricians that obviously don't understand the cables they are making or the importance of maintaining the twists. Great job!
This is super refreshing after watching videos by electricians that obviously don't understand the cables they are making or the importance of maintaining the twists. Great job
What the heck is this? This is a clinic! This is a play by play! This is what You Tube is all about! Right down to end inspection of the cable. What an electronic masterpiece you have done. 👍
I don't see how this helps as you are still crimping the collar over the second layer of tape which is covering the drain wire. Better way to do it is to ensure the collar is touching the drain wire itself. Many will choose to wrap the drain wire around the collar and then under and crimp on top of drain wire.
Very thorough and meticulous work. Good job. I have seen RJ45 connectors with open ends so that the coloured pairs go right through the ends before crimping. This ensures excellent terminator seating, removes any measurement requirement for the stripped cables and reduces the chance of any error in cable order. After crimping the excess is simply snipped off with a side cutter.
When you're an unfortunate soul like me who have put on a quintillion tips over many many years, you don't need to measure anything, it's all done by feel and sixth sense. I have a standing bet with myself if I were to ever lose my eyesight I could still terminate (color code correct) cable by feel alone.
Yep, used those connectors a lot. Quick tip, once you've pushed the wires through cut them straight and then withdraw the cable back into the connector a little. Saves any frayed ends or broken connectors.
All that, and allows for crosstalk between the conductors! Exactly what everyone wants. Lol Use of that type are NOT best practice, especially for sensitive applications. They are the cheap and easy way out for those out for the fastest money without regard for best performance. Just sayin'.
Fantastic, superb, spot on. I have been using RJ45s for years but the amount of times I have got one core swap as I push them in is so frustrating, especially on full length runs. This will save so much time overall on large jobs. All that walking backwards and forwards. Watched your video ordered ends and crimps straight away. Can’t wait to try these out.
I don't do this stuff professionally, just for me, family & friends, so thanks for a great video. When it comes to preparing the conductors there are no shortcuts are there, just untwist and take the kinks out. I had to throw my crimper last week after spending a couple of hours wondering why I couldn't get a bit of kit to work. I've now invested on an RJ45 tester. Much easier than a multimeter and a couple of sockets!
Echoing everyone else: FANTASTIC video. Thanks so much. Hard to find anything else coming close to this level of clarity and correctness. Thanks SO much for putting this together.
Used Liberty for years, the company is very solid, with great product and tools make sure to check the bandwidth of the cable used usually written on the cable spool. I use a pro cable tester as another verification and slightly flex the cable near the ends for weak crimp areas while on the tester. The crimping tool especially the blades have a definite shorter life expectancy that you might think, replace blades frequently and the tool yearly if used daily. Copper tape rocks and will pass consultant spec in AV and Network wiring. Sure beats soldering shield to strain relief
Great video, but I have a question about the shielding. I see some sources saying to fold the foil back on the jacket and crimp that under the housing, and other sources (like this video) say to strip the foil entirely and use just the drain wire. Is there an appreciable difference between the two methods?
@@ecosmos3368 If it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer. ;-) Actually, if you're running cable for a permanent installation, don't use plugs at all. Use a socket and patch cords. I do that even when running cable to an access point mounted on a drop ceiling. Also, plugs were originally intended for use on stranded cables, as used in patch cords. The plugs that work with solid wire only came about because people insisted on using plugs on solid when they shouldn't. Using a 110 punch is much easier than trying to put on a plug, while on top of a ladder.
@@karrotop i could understand that, as long as it is through a wall, what happens when you have to use a draw wire though tiny electrical conducts, walls and all sort of small spaces?? i could ask @James Knott the same question:-)
When straightening the conductors you can use a bic pen (round type) and put the conductors between your thumb and the pen and it will cut this time by 75%. And save your fingers especially if you make a lot of these connections.
I am either very lucky or very good, my first cat6A cable (15 meters, underground and façade run) with 2 brand new self installed rj45 shielded plugs, worked right away without any tester !
This has explained to me why it was so frustrating trying to terminate a shielded grade cable into a regular RJ45 connector end. It was nearly impossible to get them to line up side by side inside the connector it definitely needed the load bar, it was not the right fit conductors for regular cat6 ends.
Use a small screw driver, place the round shaft of the screw driver at the base of the conductor and pull upwards at a 45 degree angel, this will perfectly straighten the conductor, you can do two, the pair, at a time. Super easy to load now.
@@TriptyX yeah 568A was the standard for many many years, I have gone to many of places that we just went there to drop a cable or two, and found all of their shit was A code, and standard patch cables are B code, so we sold them on re-doing all of their keystones. Most switches nowadays can adjust for the swapping, but it just makes the switches work harder, and brings in some latency issues.
@kevin kelleher thank you for the feedback! A few other people have said the same thing about the music, so I am keeping this in mind for future videos.
Hey there @Helman Frow, always love to hear feedback! When you said “applied the heat shrink and left the wings on the external shield uncrimped and pointed outwards”, can you give us the time code of that? I will review! Everyone here is in the same space in finding the best solutions for pro AV connectivity. There are so many creative approaches!
@@AngieDurbinCreates 10:01 "you're going to slide that shrink tubing up..." Notice that the external ground wings have not been crimped around the cable.
@@helmanfrow thanks I see what you are talking about, you have an eagle eye! Prior to the heat shrinking, he shows bending the connector strain relief and then squeezing it around the cable by hand at 8:52. But I see what you mean, it wasn’t pressed on super-tightly so the points were still slightly sticking up. Liberty has an updated video of Cat6 termination here, you can see the strain relief is tightened more around the cable. ruclips.net/video/9U84ax50PE0/видео.html
568B: Orange-white, Orange, Green-white, Blue, Blue-white, Green, Brown-white, Brown. Note: I've been up to my eyeballs in cabling for the past few weeks ;)
Thanks @Ricky Deldo, you are right! Ralph is very experienced and speaks from his years of being in the Pro AV industry. For me as the videographer and editor, he made my job much easier. :)
4:00 Same time on the "conductor straightening" phase by untwisting the color pairs as a twosome, instead of first unbraiding the white+color wires and having to unkink them individually.
What you need to know is that are there TWO DIFFERENT connectors depending on whether you are using a solid wire cable ("backbone installation cable") or stranded ("flex patch cable"). You need to use the right connector or the cable is likely to fail, if not when you make it, later. The solid core connector has 2 to 3 prongs that are OFFSET. That allows the prongs to go over and AROUND the solid wire. The stranded connector has 1 or more prongs that are INLINE. Straight. That allows them to go IN BETWEEN the strands. If you use the INLINE connectors on the solid wire it can sever the wire or just not connect well. Google it so you know which ones to get. Even the purchase agents for the big box stores get this wrong. You need to look at the side of the connector to see the prongs. OFFSET or INLINE. No one tells you in these how too videos. Know your wire and know your connector is the key to making good cables!
He said there are different designs of crimp connector for each solid conductor and stranded conductor. The design of the teeth on the 8 crimp contacts ( 9:38 ) is the difference.
Been doing telecom cabling for 21 years and never heard of 3/10ths of an inch... T-568A terminations are also used in some military applications... Most of the world uses T-568B. And then there are the fun patch cords that have one end which is the reverse of the other end... Not sure what we used them for, connecting some pieces of equipment in the MDF at the site where I worked, but my boss had to make them sometimes, and he hated trying to remember the order backwards...
"A two piece RJ45 connector will always outperform a one piece RJ45 connector"... Please define your metrics of performance? Do you mean in quickly assembling cables or actual network performance because I don't see it outperforming anything.
Likely he is suggesting failed terminations. I've done many of these and if you don't test them you will be upset when one doesn't work and you have to trace it down. Not all of the blades make contact with the copper wire as they are crimped and slide into the split blades...you can do one perfectly and find internally, there is one that didn't make good contact.
sorta wish I found this before I ran two cat6a cables to my room and finished up 2 other additional runs of cat6 that I have been meaning to terminate for a while now. But I guess I now know better for the future
I feel like a caveman compared to this guy. In my line of work they expect you to go fast. You will have a very sad/angry foreman if you spend 11 minutes on one RJ45. So im banging these out in like 1-2 min. Meanwhile this man is like "and now lets put a happy little piece of copper tape on our work of art :)" Great video, im gonna have to take notes👍
Totally get where you are coming from! This is not the way to perform high-speed installations with strict time limits for sure. What it is though, is a slowed down step-by-step explanation by one of the best in the business (Ralph) to explain and demonstrate the intricacies of terminating cat cables on-the-fly. And with your reference to Bob Ross, I kinda want to see if I can take a ton of twisted pairs and turn them into happy trees in a miniature landscape setting. :)
@@AngieDurbinCreates Absolutely. One thing I did take away from this video and started doing, is to hold the crimper for a few seconds. Usually we just crimp and immediately let go.
STP should be grounded. Does this termination imply that the grounding of the shielding of the cable is achieved by the contact of the connector body to the chasis? Thank you!
I am new to this shielded type of cable and its drain wire. It seems a stupid question, but I will ask anyway: Is it okay if I use cable boots to protect the cable and RJ45 connector? Would it diminish the purpose/functionality of the drain wire?
very good and detailed explaination but the problem is time. making a few like 4-5 is ok but try to do this a few tens of times (done it) and your fingers will be useless, due to cores being much harder than cat5. i believe cat6 cables were never meant to be crimped in rj45 plugs but to be patched. eitherway nice and informative video overall.
Thanks for the comment @dale nassar! I believe the diameter of the heat shrink tubing is 1/2" before it is heated and shrunk around the cable and connector.
Pretty good if you have the correct tools, most IT guys work with cheap and with lack of proper tools for the job, no wonder a lot of the cables failure over time, most of the clients also doesn't care as long as it works
I push the load bar to the tip of the wire after pulling it back and cutting the excess wire. For me that insures smooth insertion into the connector every time Also, I don't think I've seen 568A used in anything in general in the last 10 years as RJ11/phone lines don't even get installed in homes anymore. And most "LAN lines" are now just IP Phones.
I have a better method of untwisting the pairs at 4:00. You bend the end of the pair over itself then twist both conductors of the pair counter clockwise together. This straightens the conductors at the same time and makes them very easy to deal with
Thanks for the good video. I was hoping to see how the other end of the cable is terminated at the patch panel - especially the grounding part. Any recommendations?
I don't understand how a technical field like cabling can still be using imperial units. 7.62mm instead of 3/10th of an inch. Good vid - however I think we should all use metric and let the cavemen convert to imperial on their own time.
It is actually an issue in north america... The USA is still imperial. In canada we are metric BUT building is still imperial, so does many mesurements due to our close proximity with the USA and also legacy stuff. Atleast more and more is becoming metric, but many things have weird mesurements because they basically took metric mesurements, converted to imperial, rounded it up, then converted it back to metric, as it. Now you ends up with a powerbar which the mounting holes are... something like 184.15 spaced (185mm -> 7.28in -> 7.25in -> 184.15mm).
First off, they aren't "imperial" units because there isn't an empire anymore. They are American units. Units that won WW II and got us to the moon whilst the Yurripeans were just wallowing around in pig shit.
@@goldwinger5434 First off they WERE "imperial" units during WWII. Yeah the moon but those "American" units crashed the Mars climate orbiter with a 190 million dollar loss. If you hadn't noticed, 'merican cars are all metric now. :D C'mon really, feet and inches? lol
@@goldwinger5434 No, The primary cause of this failure was that one piece of ground software supplied by Lockheed Martin produced results in a United States customary unit, contrary to its Software Interface Specification (SIS), while a second system, supplied by NASA, expected those results to be in SI units, in accordance with the SIS. And there you go. Unless Lockheed was foreign owned by "metric people" is was America's fault. You stated that "SAE is not "imperial."" This not correct as the origin of the SAE standard comes from the English, or Imperial, system, which is based on inches and the fractions thereof. SAE, which stands for the Society of Automotive Engineers, was used as the standard primarily on U.S.-made cars and trucks through the 1970s. SAE sockets are sized in inches and fractions of inches, and today they are metric. The U.S. military uses metric measurements extensively to ensure inter-operability with allied forces, particularly NATO Standardization Agreements (STANAG). Ground forces have measured distances in "klicks", slang for kilometers, since 1918. Most military firearms are measured in metric units, beginning with the M-14 which was introduced in 1957, although there are a few legacy exceptions, such as .50-caliber guns, aircraft ordinance and the U.S. Navy.
I had to LOL at this comment...good point! I think everyone has a specific way that they measure, especially Pro AV installers who constantly systematize their processes. Yes, 5/16 or even 8mm would probably be easier to digest.
Hi @Brandon Doty, thanks for your question! The heat shrink size is 3:1. The kit shown in the video comes with 25 pre-cut pieces of it. Here is a link to their site which has an updated video of the termination process: secure.libertycable.com/product_details.php?pitem=RJ45-STP-L6
everything in the datacom/networking industry is like that, ever installed thousands of switches and wireless ap's, I'm actually surprised when I find a switch that doesn't have at least 1 bad port, and OBF hardware is astronomical
Plus, you got lots of guys who can't properly terminate because they're too hung over, too worried about their next cigarette break, or simply don't know or care about the quality of the finished product.
Yea, he didn't crimp the external ground on the RJ45. Not crimping the external ground correctly can lead to a fault in the shielding capabilities of the cable.
A question, I purchased Cat 6 RJ45 connectors that look EXACTLY the same as the one in this video. However, none of them came with load bars! I've been getting frustrated wondering why this was so hard compared to cat 5e connectors. Are load bars supposed to be sold separately? Feels stupid and unnecessary not including them. Thanks for the video by the way.
@mitzi louise it looks as though shielded is the recommended way to go. Technically you can use unshielded, but the shielded cables need the sheilded connectors to function properly. Here is a link to an article about it, hope this helps! www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/selecting-the-correct-connector
Your straight through patch cable that you would use to connect computers and various other devices to a switch or router will use the 568b standard while it really doesnt matter since on both standards the main pins are in the same spots just with a different color. Ive used a cross over 568B and 568A cable only when connecting 2 switches that dont have auto mdi-x.
A more reliable way to tell if the wires are inserted far enough into the connector is to hold the connector up with a light behind it, you will see how far away from the tip the wires are. If they are not right against the end of the tip, and you cannot push it in any farther, do not crimp and start over
I appreciate your feedback @patrickkojobarkoh8137! And I agree with you that the background music level is too high. To be honest, I probably should have omitted it entirely. There's a lot of great information packed in this tutorial, and I have since learned that background music can take away from the overall message of in-depth tutorial videos. Always striving to improve, and receiving feedback from viewers is invaluable. Thank you!
Great video. But I installed my Ethernet cable and I cut the drain wires. I speed test the connections but it seems fine and so far I didn't encounter any problems. Is that necessary?
@@AngieDurbinCreates Yikes! I should rebuild my ethernet connections. I am dumb that didn't see this video first before my actual work. Btw thanks for the info. :)
@@AngieDurbinCreates lol Never even HEARD of anyone having that problem, until now. If you can destroy any switch at all with a mere termination, you've got bigger problems than static electricity lol
Hi @Agus Widi, thanks for the comment! You make an excellent point. We didn't include the testing on this one for timing purposes but will definitely keep that in mind for future videos.
My connectors came without the plastic guide piece, hopefully I will be able to do this! First time doing shielded cabling and I already messed up one connector, so I looked up this guide! Seems promising. Hopefully I will get at least two functional M-M patch cables so that I can test all the F-F connections I have already made (The keystones I bought are self-crimping, so I hope I didn't manage to somehow mess even that up... :D
Hi @Justice Freeman, thanks for the question! The crimp tool applications listed on their product page includes Category 3, 5e, and 6 Modular Plug Termination. However I am not sure if it works with Cat7 as I am the videographer/editor and not the engineer. I’m sure Liberty AV Solutions would be able to answer that for you though! I’ll provide a link to their product page below as well as a link to their updated video on this which is titled “HDBaseT Best Practice Termination - Shielded RJ45 on CAT6A F/UTP Category cable”. Thanks and good luck! Updated video: ruclips.net/video/9U84ax50PE0/видео.html Link to Crimp Tool: secure.libertycable.com/products/Liberty-AV-Solutions/100054LW/Heavy-Duty-EZ-RJ45-Crimp-Tool
Whats the use of shielding that portion of the rj45, when its plugged in a switch or router, it all un shielded in there. If this was ham radio we have shielding in connectors. Why hustle doing all this when everything is still radiated in plastic routers
In environments with a ton of RF noise, the cables should be shielded to prevent interference. We have to run shielded ethernet cable at our facility because many of our runs are fairly close to servo/VFD power cables.
@@dan8250 do you even see any contact for grounding to that plate, unless you plan to solder a ground on it, the rj45 female ddoes not have the contact point for it either. the router itself emits rf noise with a plastic case, i really do not understand what shielding that is ever going to gain that's just a gimmick anyway. only external outdoor OTP s have shielded ground.
@@jbx907 Patch panels and switches specced for shielded cable will have grounded RJ45 female connectors. Routers/switches/other end devices may have plastic enclosures, but the RJ45 port itself will be grounded. Hunt around for "shielded RJ45 patch panel keystone jacks", and you'll see they're grounded through the patch panel/rack. Shielding is generally not necessary in consumer grade applications, but I can promise you in industrial settings, it's mandatory. In industrial control networks, ethernet cables can pick up a ton of noise, which we've had to deal with first hand at our facility. We've had network connections fail intermittently until the UTP cables were replaced with S/FTP.
Great job.....but, you cant assume that the connection or cable is working until after you have tested the cable for connection ...which you failed to do......Key note when terminating cat6 cables is that you always use a digital cable tester to ensure the cable and connector is working ..that is that each pin is transferring signal .....you didn't do this test.....Other than that love your video. Great work.
What a great video and a great presenter! I have one question, though: how to prevent the plastic locking mechanism on top of the plug to break when in use? I have had some trouble with this previously on cat 5 installations - but what about cat 6 when installing plugs myself?
I didn’t know I needed to watch this until I did.
same here! idkk why he use ez crimp tool,,, he dont have to cut at the end
@@syvekhezeiahjanebesidas7329 , I concur. I've never done shielded. Something tells me it will be necessary in the future. I was impressed by how easy the new passthrough connectors are for UTP until I saw this with the load bar. This seems just as easy, doesn't require me to buy a new passthrough crimper and I get a better cable.
@@syvekhezeiahjanebesidas7329 depends on the connector he uses. that connector didn't look like it would allow the conductors to protrude through the end of the connector.
This is super refreshing after watching videos by electricians that obviously don't understand the cables they are making or the importance of maintaining the twists. Great job!
This is super refreshing after watching videos by electricians that obviously don't understand the cables they are making or the importance of maintaining the twists. Great job
Novice here, looked at many videos before I found this one that actually makes sense and is so detailed. Great camera shots.
Awesome, thank you!
What the heck is this? This is a clinic! This is a play by play! This is what You Tube is all about! Right down to end inspection of the cable. What an electronic masterpiece you have done. 👍
Place first pass of copper tape under the drain, then wrap over the top of the drain. Eliminates adhesive connectivity issues.
AND gives two surfaces for drain to contact, better than just one.
I don't see how this helps as you are still crimping the collar over the second layer of tape which is covering the drain wire. Better way to do it is to ensure the collar is touching the drain wire itself. Many will choose to wrap the drain wire around the collar and then under and crimp on top of drain wire.
Very thorough and meticulous work. Good job. I have seen RJ45 connectors with open ends so that the coloured pairs go right through the ends before crimping. This ensures excellent terminator seating, removes any measurement requirement for the stripped cables and reduces the chance of any error in cable order. After crimping the excess is simply snipped off with a side cutter.
When you're an unfortunate soul like me who have put on a quintillion tips over many many years, you don't need to measure anything, it's all done by feel and sixth sense. I have a standing bet with myself if I were to ever lose my eyesight I could still terminate (color code correct) cable by feel alone.
Yep, used those connectors a lot. Quick tip, once you've pushed the wires through cut them straight and then withdraw the cable back into the connector a little. Saves any frayed ends or broken connectors.
All that, and allows for crosstalk between the conductors! Exactly what everyone wants. Lol
Use of that type are NOT best practice, especially for sensitive applications. They are the cheap and easy way out for those out for the fastest money without regard for best performance. Just sayin'.
People complaining about the music, but I found it helped me focus and chill while watching. Great instructional video!
I've seen a lot of videos on networking and this is the first one to explain WHY most people use 568B instead of 568A
Well it actually says that 568A is more advantageous. B is legacy for businesses that started B style wiring years ago.
i read that 568B is more resistant to HF interference
@@danielsatko- NOT TRUE!
@@daniellecastellano9993 so give me link to page where is your opinion proved
@@danielsatko- Can you link to where you read it...
Great! The most polished connection of CAT6 and RJ45 video I've
ever seen.
Not only was very well explained, but the precise use of words made a lot of sense in understanding. Two thumbs up. 👍👍
Fantastic, superb, spot on. I have been using RJ45s for years but the amount of times I have got one core swap as I push them in is so frustrating, especially on full length runs. This will save so much time overall on large jobs. All that walking backwards and forwards. Watched your video ordered ends and crimps straight away. Can’t wait to try these out.
I don't do this stuff professionally, just for me, family & friends, so thanks for a great video. When it comes to preparing the conductors there are no shortcuts are there, just untwist and take the kinks out. I had to throw my crimper last week after spending a couple of hours wondering why I couldn't get a bit of kit to work. I've now invested on an RJ45 tester. Much easier than a multimeter and a couple of sockets!
as a lifer, never, never do this stuff professionally, trust me.
@@MatthewHolevinski Worst than working at McDonalds?
@@MatthewHolevinski Lifer? You're serving a life sentence? Or doing this for a living feels like serving a life sentence?
Echoing everyone else: FANTASTIC video. Thanks so much. Hard to find anything else coming close to this level of clarity and correctness. Thanks SO much for putting this together.
@stankrute thanks for the comment! Seems like you must have some experience with AV equipment, so I appreciate the positive feedback. Cheers!
I learned this when making shielding for HF: You want to have a section of the drain wire leaning on TOP of the Cu tape.
Thanks for this video! The attention to detail on each step involved convinced me to buy a pre-terminated cable.
Used Liberty for years, the company is very solid, with great product and tools make sure to check the bandwidth of the cable used usually written on the cable spool. I use a pro cable tester as another verification and slightly flex the cable near the ends for weak crimp areas while on the tester. The crimping tool especially the blades have a definite shorter life expectancy that you might think, replace blades frequently and the tool yearly if used daily. Copper tape rocks and will pass consultant spec in AV and Network wiring. Sure beats soldering shield to strain relief
As a Open Reg cable installer in Australia try this 1000 times in one day :)
Haha I hear ya. Then try doing it for a week straight.
@@callitagain No thank you my nails will not hold up unless there is a beer break every hour :)
I hope whoever uses this method is paid by the hour.
Best manually made cable I’ve seen
I've seen better.
@@tonysolar284 so give us the link
@@XenonIPC by using the proper connector makes it better.
Not the best but the longest...
@@privatebubba8876 what was improper about that connector?
After arranging pairs, cut the excess diagonally across the pairs, makes loading wires into load bar MUCH easier.
Thank you so much, that part takes me way to long, I'll try this next time
Great job ! Wiring up a building or small business office with 100+ computer stations must take weeks at this rate per RJ45.
Thank you for this video, it helped me to make a proper connection with shielding. I immediately went up in speed. Shielded vs. Non shielded.
Nicely done. A lot of good technique demonstrated, with clear narratives.
For sure one of the BETTER videos .... clear presentation.
Great video, but I have a question about the shielding. I see some sources saying to fold the foil back on the jacket and crimp that under the housing, and other sources (like this video) say to strip the foil entirely and use just the drain wire. Is there an appreciable difference between the two methods?
Great job...convinced me to just buy them with the ends already installed. : - )
:-) yes, until one day you`ll need to run a cable through an opening which the connector won`t fit...
@@ecosmos3368 that's what drills are for :D
Kelly Larsen sometimes you need to cut for measure, anyway.
@@ecosmos3368 If it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer. ;-)
Actually, if you're running cable for a permanent installation, don't use plugs at all. Use a socket and patch cords. I do that even when running cable to an access point mounted on a drop ceiling. Also, plugs were originally intended for use on stranded cables, as used in patch cords. The plugs that work with solid wire only came about because people insisted on using plugs on solid when they shouldn't.
Using a 110 punch is much easier than trying to put on a plug, while on top of a ladder.
@@karrotop i could understand that, as long as it is through a wall, what happens when you have to use a draw wire though tiny electrical conducts, walls and all sort of small spaces?? i could ask @James Knott the same question:-)
When straightening the conductors you can use a bic pen (round type) and put the conductors between your thumb and the pen and it will cut this time by 75%. And save your fingers especially if you make a lot of these connections.
@Jason Galvan great tip, thanks for sharing!
Thanks Jason! After building a dozen or so RJ45 connections, my fingers are killing me. Your tip should help a LOT!
Yep. I wondered why this technique wasn't used in the video.
I am either very lucky or very good, my first cat6A cable (15 meters, underground and façade run) with 2 brand new self installed rj45 shielded plugs, worked right away without any tester !
This has explained to me why it was so frustrating trying to terminate a shielded grade cable into a regular RJ45 connector end. It was nearly impossible to get them to line up side by side inside the connector it definitely needed the load bar, it was not the right fit conductors for regular cat6 ends.
@John Pythagoras thank you so much for the feedback. We're SO happy that the video helped you out!
Use a small screw driver, place the round shaft of the screw driver at the base of the conductor and pull upwards at a 45 degree angel, this will perfectly straighten the conductor, you can do two, the pair, at a time. Super easy to load now.
master piece😍 but u forgot one thing , to bend the cable catcher
Best Steven Seagal movie I have seen in over a decade , also, he looks much healthier now
LOL yep
If you have a lot of these to sintall, it might be more expensive but will save a ton of time to have already booted and terminated cables.
Nice walkthrough!. Gonna take a shot at this at work to get rid of some dodgy WiFi extender nonsense.
Yeah, that's not gonna help at all.
@@MarcGyverIt Making and running cables could help eliminate the need to use wifi extenders. Not sure what you mean here.
Heat shrink on the RJ45 connector is an excellent idea even for Cat5e cable, reduces wire strain.
sptrader and covers up screw-ups:)
No it doesn't.
Complete waste of time and money
for POE security camera, use 568B is preferred, although the POE camera system will automatically determined and adjust for either 568A or 568B
I only know of Russia using A standard. Everything else I've seen has been on B standard
@@TriptyX yeah 568A was the standard for many many years, I have gone to many of places that we just went there to drop a cable or two, and found all of their shit was A code, and standard patch cables are B code, so we sold them on re-doing all of their keystones. Most switches nowadays can adjust for the swapping, but it just makes the switches work harder, and brings in some latency issues.
I would use this for training but the background techno music is too annoying. Hard to keep ur attention on the speaker and understand him
@kevin kelleher thank you for the feedback! A few other people have said the same thing about the music, so I am keeping this in mind for future videos.
omg walter white made its way to it engineering... so watched entire tut with eyes wide open.
Hold up: You applied the heat shrink and left the wings on the external shield uncrimped and pointed outwards!
Hey there @Helman Frow, always love to hear feedback! When you said “applied the heat shrink and left the wings on the external shield uncrimped and pointed outwards”, can you give us the time code of that? I will review! Everyone here is in the same space in finding the best solutions for pro AV connectivity. There are so many creative approaches!
@@AngieDurbinCreates 10:01 "you're going to slide that shrink tubing up..." Notice that the external ground wings have not been crimped around the cable.
@@helmanfrow thanks I see what you are talking about, you have an eagle eye! Prior to the heat shrinking, he shows bending the connector strain relief and then squeezing it around the cable by hand at 8:52. But I see what you mean, it wasn’t pressed on super-tightly so the points were still slightly sticking up. Liberty has an updated video of Cat6 termination here, you can see the strain relief is tightened more around the cable. ruclips.net/video/9U84ax50PE0/видео.html
One detail missed is the order of cables 568B or 568A. Easy to find and people will know anyway, but this is headed "Detailed tutorial".
568B: Orange-white, Orange, Green-white, Blue, Blue-white, Green, Brown-white, Brown.
Note: I've been up to my eyeballs in cabling for the past few weeks ;)
@@jlaroche0doing a great job 👍
For the ruler-challenged, 3/10" equates to 7.6mm on the metric scale.
And .300"
Very well explained. You can see he is telling from exp. instead reading a script.
Thanks @Ricky Deldo, you are right! Ralph is very experienced and speaks from his years of being in the Pro AV industry. For me as the videographer and editor, he made my job much easier. :)
4:00 Same time on the "conductor straightening" phase by untwisting the color pairs as a twosome, instead of first unbraiding the white+color wires and having to unkink them individually.
What you need to know is that are there TWO DIFFERENT connectors depending on whether you are using a solid wire cable ("backbone installation cable") or stranded ("flex patch cable"). You need to use the right connector or the cable is likely to fail, if not when you make it, later. The solid core connector has 2 to 3 prongs that are OFFSET. That allows the prongs to go over and AROUND the solid wire. The stranded connector has 1 or more prongs that are INLINE. Straight. That allows them to go IN BETWEEN the strands. If you use the INLINE connectors on the solid wire it can sever the wire or just not connect well. Google it so you know which ones to get. Even the purchase agents for the big box stores get this wrong. You need to look at the side of the connector to see the prongs. OFFSET or INLINE. No one tells you in these how too videos. Know your wire and know your connector is the key to making good cables!
What?
He said there are different designs of crimp connector for each solid conductor and stranded conductor. The design of the teeth on the 8 crimp contacts ( 9:38 ) is the difference.
Been doing telecom cabling for 21 years and never heard of 3/10ths of an inch... T-568A terminations are also used in some military applications... Most of the world uses T-568B.
And then there are the fun patch cords that have one end which is the reverse of the other end... Not sure what we used them for, connecting some pieces of equipment in the MDF at the site where I worked, but my boss had to make them sometimes, and he hated trying to remember the order backwards...
"A two piece RJ45 connector will always outperform a one piece RJ45 connector"... Please define your metrics of performance? Do you mean in quickly assembling cables or actual network performance because I don't see it outperforming anything.
Likely he is suggesting failed terminations. I've done many of these and if you don't test them you will be upset when one doesn't work and you have to trace it down. Not all of the blades make contact with the copper wire as they are crimped and slide into the split blades...you can do one perfectly and find internally, there is one that didn't make good contact.
Very good video, good info and right to the point, excellent work
Thanks Jesus, I appreciate the comment!
That’s very amazing. Plus it increases knowledge into Networking
Wow best presentation I had ever seen!!
Much appreciated @Pranay Ghosal!
great video, is there enough air flow on your heat gun standing on rear vents.
There must be, it was designed with a stand to make it sit like that.
No. There's no air flow. He likes it that way. lol
sorta wish I found this before I ran two cat6a cables to my room and finished up 2 other additional runs of cat6 that I have been meaning to terminate for a while now. But I guess I now know better for the future
Nice video. the heat gun shrink tubing is easier than i thought.
I feel like a caveman compared to this guy. In my line of work they expect you to go fast. You will have a very sad/angry foreman if you spend 11 minutes on one RJ45. So im banging these out in like 1-2 min. Meanwhile this man is like "and now lets put a happy little piece of copper tape on our work of art :)"
Great video, im gonna have to take notes👍
Totally get where you are coming from! This is not the way to perform high-speed installations with strict time limits for sure. What it is though, is a slowed down step-by-step explanation by one of the best in the business (Ralph) to explain and demonstrate the intricacies of terminating cat cables on-the-fly. And with your reference to Bob Ross, I kinda want to see if I can take a ton of twisted pairs and turn them into happy trees in a miniature landscape setting. :)
@@AngieDurbinCreates Absolutely. One thing I did take away from this video and started doing, is to hold the crimper for a few seconds. Usually we just crimp and immediately let go.
STP should be grounded. Does this termination imply that the grounding of the shielding of the cable is achieved by the contact of the connector body to the chasis? Thank you!
very clear description on what to do to make good joints up.
I wouldn't call this a "standard" RJ45, maybe change title to shielded RJ45. Standard to me would be a regular plastic connector
I am new to this shielded type of cable and its drain wire. It seems a stupid question, but I will ask anyway: Is it okay if I use cable boots to protect the cable and RJ45 connector? Would it diminish the purpose/functionality of the drain wire?
very good and detailed explaination but the problem is time. making a few like 4-5 is ok but try to do this a few tens of times (done it) and your fingers will be useless, due to cores being much harder than cat5. i believe cat6 cables were never meant to be crimped in rj45 plugs but to be patched. eitherway nice and informative video overall.
What diameter is that 3:1 shrink cable? GREAT VIDEO!!
Thanks for the comment @dale nassar! I believe the diameter of the heat shrink tubing is 1/2" before it is heated and shrunk around the cable and connector.
Thanks for an excellent presentation!
Pretty good if you have the correct tools, most IT guys work with cheap and with lack of proper tools for the job, no wonder a lot of the cables failure over time, most of the clients also doesn't care as long as it works
Just a top notch video. Thanks so much.
I push the load bar to the tip of the wire after pulling it back and cutting the excess wire. For me that insures smooth insertion into the connector every time
Also, I don't think I've seen 568A used in anything in general in the last 10 years as RJ11/phone lines don't even get installed in homes anymore. And most "LAN lines" are now just IP Phones.
Agreed, I haven't seen anything but 568B pairing used in anything I've worked on in the past 10 years.
I have a better method of untwisting the pairs at 4:00. You bend the end of the pair over itself then twist both conductors of the pair counter clockwise together. This straightens the conductors at the same time and makes them very easy to deal with
I should say counter twist rather than counter clockwise, because I guess it depends on which side of the cable you are doing
Wouldn't bending the pair over itself cause work hardening of the copper?
@@callitagain I'll have to make a video so you can see it. The part you bend over gets cut off. It gives you something to grab and untwist
@@davidabner8885 I'd love to see it please. Could save me hours or even days on some of my larger jobs.
@@callitagain ruclips.net/video/UTGCvBCzKdQ/видео.html
Thanks for the good video. I was hoping to see how the other end of the cable is terminated at the patch panel - especially the grounding part. Any recommendations?
very very clean connection seen ever loved it
I don't understand how a technical field like cabling can still be using imperial units. 7.62mm instead of 3/10th of an inch. Good vid - however I think we should all use metric and let the cavemen convert to imperial on their own time.
It is actually an issue in north america... The USA is still imperial. In canada we are metric BUT building is still imperial, so does many mesurements due to our close proximity with the USA and also legacy stuff.
Atleast more and more is becoming metric, but many things have weird mesurements because they basically took metric mesurements, converted to imperial, rounded it up, then converted it back to metric, as it. Now you ends up with a powerbar which the mounting holes are... something like 184.15 spaced (185mm -> 7.28in -> 7.25in -> 184.15mm).
First off, they aren't "imperial" units because there isn't an empire anymore. They are American units. Units that won WW II and got us to the moon whilst the Yurripeans were just wallowing around in pig shit.
@@goldwinger5434 First off they WERE "imperial" units during WWII. Yeah the moon but those "American" units crashed the Mars climate orbiter with a 190 million dollar loss.
If you hadn't noticed, 'merican cars are all metric now. :D
C'mon really, feet and inches? lol
@@tihzho Not really, SAE is not "imperial."
The Mars thing crashed because the metric people were too stupid to do conversions.
@@goldwinger5434 No, The primary cause of this failure was that one piece of ground software supplied by Lockheed Martin produced results in a United States customary unit, contrary to its Software Interface Specification (SIS), while a second system, supplied by NASA, expected those results to be in SI units, in accordance with the SIS.
And there you go. Unless Lockheed was foreign owned by "metric people" is was America's fault.
You stated that "SAE is not "imperial."" This not correct as the origin of the SAE standard comes from the English, or Imperial, system, which is based on inches and the fractions thereof. SAE, which stands for the Society of Automotive Engineers, was used as the standard primarily on U.S.-made cars and trucks through the 1970s. SAE sockets are sized in inches and fractions of inches, and today they are metric.
The U.S. military uses metric measurements extensively to ensure inter-operability with allied forces, particularly NATO Standardization Agreements (STANAG). Ground forces have measured distances in "klicks", slang for kilometers, since 1918. Most military firearms are measured in metric units, beginning with the M-14 which was introduced in 1957, although there are a few legacy exceptions, such as .50-caliber guns, aircraft ordinance and the U.S. Navy.
3/10 of an inch? I’ve never seen a ruler with 10ths. I think 5/16 would be a little easier to figure out. 3/10 =.3. 5/16 = .3125
I had to LOL at this comment...good point! I think everyone has a specific way that they measure, especially Pro AV installers who constantly systematize their processes. Yes, 5/16 or even 8mm would probably be easier to digest.
What size of heat shrink tubing is required to fit over the RJ-45 connector?
Hi @Brandon Doty, thanks for your question! The heat shrink size is 3:1. The kit shown in the video comes with 25 pre-cut pieces of it. Here is a link to their site which has an updated video of the termination process: secure.libertycable.com/product_details.php?pitem=RJ45-STP-L6
1/3 failure rate seems rather extraordinary..
everything in the datacom/networking industry is like that, ever installed thousands of switches and wireless ap's, I'm actually surprised when I find a switch that doesn't have at least 1 bad port, and OBF hardware is astronomical
Plus, you got lots of guys who can't properly terminate because they're too hung over, too worried about their next cigarette break, or simply don't know or care about the quality of the finished product.
In cases where copper tape with conductive adhesive is not readily available, is it OK if we were to use aluminum foil cut to size instead?
How about termination of female RJ45 connectors(sockets/keystone jacks) ......?
how is the cable actually grounded because the wire just seems to be touching the copper tape and the tape is attached to a non conducting sheath?
Excellent presentation. Very detailed.
10:03 minutes in the video did not close the connector body
Yea, he didn't crimp the external ground on the RJ45. Not crimping the external ground correctly can lead to a fault in the shielding capabilities of the cable.
A question, I purchased Cat 6 RJ45 connectors that look EXACTLY the same as the one in this video. However, none of them came with load bars! I've been getting frustrated wondering why this was so hard compared to cat 5e connectors. Are load bars supposed to be sold separately? Feels stupid and unnecessary not including them. Thanks for the video by the way.
Are shielded rj45 the most compatible with shielded cat6a?
@mitzi louise it looks as though shielded is the recommended way to go. Technically you can use unshielded, but the shielded cables need the sheilded connectors to function properly. Here is a link to an article about it, hope this helps! www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/selecting-the-correct-connector
What is the size of shrink tube?
Your straight through patch cable that you would use to connect computers and various other devices to a switch or router will use the 568b standard while it really doesnt matter since on both standards the main pins are in the same spots just with a different color. Ive used a cross over 568B and 568A cable only when connecting 2 switches that dont have auto mdi-x.
A more reliable way to tell if the wires are inserted far enough into the connector is to hold the connector up with a light behind it, you will see how far away from the tip the wires are. If they are not right against the end of the tip, and you cannot push it in any farther, do not crimp and start over
background music is too high
I appreciate your feedback @patrickkojobarkoh8137! And I agree with you that the background music level is too high. To be honest, I probably should have omitted it entirely. There's a lot of great information packed in this tutorial, and I have since learned that background music can take away from the overall message of in-depth tutorial videos. Always striving to improve, and receiving feedback from viewers is invaluable. Thank you!
Great video. But I installed my Ethernet cable and I cut the drain wires. I speed test the connections but it seems fine and so far I didn't encounter any problems. Is that necessary?
@@AngieDurbinCreates Yikes! I should rebuild my ethernet connections. I am dumb that didn't see this video first before my actual work. Btw thanks for the info. :)
@@AngieDurbinCreates lol
Never even HEARD of anyone having that problem, until now. If you can destroy any switch at all with a mere termination, you've got bigger problems than static electricity lol
At the end, perhaps testing it using LAN Connector Tools to make sure every kabel is connected.
Hi @Agus Widi, thanks for the comment! You make an excellent point. We didn't include the testing on this one for timing purposes but will definitely keep that in mind for future videos.
My ruler doesn't have 10th's. I think 3/10 is just shy of 5/16
My connectors came without the plastic guide piece, hopefully I will be able to do this! First time doing shielded cabling and I already messed up one connector, so I looked up this guide! Seems promising. Hopefully I will get at least two functional M-M patch cables so that I can test all the F-F connections I have already made (The keystones I bought are self-crimping, so I hope I didn't manage to somehow mess even that up... :D
Great video thanks keep the videos coming
So does your crimping tool only do Cat6 RJ-45’s? Not cat5e or cat5a? How about new cat7a?
Hi @Justice Freeman, thanks for the question! The crimp tool applications listed on their product page includes Category 3, 5e, and 6 Modular Plug Termination. However I am not sure if it works with Cat7 as I am the videographer/editor and not the engineer. I’m sure Liberty AV Solutions would be able to answer that for you though! I’ll provide a link to their product page below as well as a link to their updated video on this which is titled “HDBaseT Best Practice Termination - Shielded RJ45 on CAT6A F/UTP Category cable”. Thanks and good luck!
Updated video:
ruclips.net/video/9U84ax50PE0/видео.html
Link to Crimp Tool:
secure.libertycable.com/products/Liberty-AV-Solutions/100054LW/Heavy-Duty-EZ-RJ45-Crimp-Tool
Still completed. The rj45 connector in my country is plastic only, or shielded without tail.
just put it on my fav videos ! ty
Thanks for a very clear instructional video.
Very good job sir 👍👌
"Best Practices" using a hobby knife,... 4 Cuts to remove the separator,... 4 times to nick a wire.
Is this how they do it in the factory?
Nice video, but I could do it without the "noise" (music) in the background.
Whats the use of shielding that portion of the rj45, when its plugged in a switch or router, it all un shielded in there. If this was ham radio we have shielding in connectors. Why hustle doing all this when everything is still radiated in plastic routers
In environments with a ton of RF noise, the cables should be shielded to prevent interference. We have to run shielded ethernet cable at our facility because many of our runs are fairly close to servo/VFD power cables.
@@dan8250 do you even see any contact for grounding to that plate, unless you plan to solder a ground on it, the rj45 female ddoes not have the contact point for it either. the router itself emits rf noise with a plastic case, i really do not understand what shielding that is ever going to gain that's just a gimmick anyway. only external outdoor OTP s have shielded ground.
@@jbx907 Patch panels and switches specced for shielded cable will have grounded RJ45 female connectors. Routers/switches/other end devices may have plastic enclosures, but the RJ45 port itself will be grounded. Hunt around for "shielded RJ45 patch panel keystone jacks", and you'll see they're grounded through the patch panel/rack.
Shielding is generally not necessary in consumer grade applications, but I can promise you in industrial settings, it's mandatory. In industrial control networks, ethernet cables can pick up a ton of noise, which we've had to deal with first hand at our facility. We've had network connections fail intermittently until the UTP cables were replaced with S/FTP.
@@dan8250 i totally agree
Great job.....but, you cant assume that the connection or cable is working until after you have tested the cable for connection ...which you failed to do......Key note when terminating cat6 cables is that you always use a digital cable tester to ensure the cable and connector is working ..that is that each pin is transferring signal .....you didn't do this test.....Other than that love your video. Great work.
very true......
Excellent and neat presentation.
Thanks @A.H.M. Asadul Huq, appreciate that!
Thank you. Very helpful
GREAT VIDEO!
@Scott Shylock thanks, appreciate it!
What a great video and a great presenter! I have one question, though: how to prevent the plastic locking mechanism on top of the plug to break when in use? I have had some trouble with this previously on cat 5 installations - but what about cat 6 when installing plugs myself?