Thanks for the information. --------------- Somethings to keep in mind when selecting Cat cable: 5e - up to 1Gbs at 100m (328 ft) 6 - up to 10Gbs at ~37-55m (~121-180 ft) 6a - up to 10Gbs at 100m 7 - up to 10Gbs at 100m - up to *100Gbs at 15m (~49 ft), Fully shielded, *Class F, not recognized by the TIA/EIA. 8 - up to 40Gbs at ~30m (98 ft) - Fully shielded, UTP - Unshielded Twisted Pair ------------
As a 10 year experienced network technician, this is the first time i have seen someone use a copper tape for the shield.most people in the field just twist the shield in one string and crimp it. Nice beginner video
Great video! Thank you so much for your clear explanations and demonstration. Suggestion: it would have been great if during the keystone demonstration, the camera stayed zoomed in making it easier to see the detail of how the wires were laying in the keystone, etc.
This was a tad nostalgic for me, about 25 years ago I had a job installing networks. Companies were changing over from giant tower computers with some inch floppy boot disk with drive controller boards I used to have hanging on my wall, they were 2 feet by 2 feet just to run the single floppy drive. That was all replaced with a standard IBM 386 computer. The network for that grocery store chain was upgraded to CAT5 which was top dog at the time. I still remember terminating those long runs, getting out the tester and making sure I did it right. Pulling the cables climbing through fiberglass and hanging from rafters in factory buildings hundreds of feet above the floor. It was hard work, sweaty itchy work but I enjoyed it. Hated my boss and his meathead brother. I was in the local 5 electricians union and when I complained about them they laid me off. I tried to fight it saying they only hire relatives. 90% of that crew was related in some way. I learned a lot and moved on with my life. That company is a vacant lot today so I guess I win. Nice video.
Very helpful thank you. I am wiring my house with Cat7 and I was perplexed as to why they would put the colors on the keystone cover and not the actual block part. This video made it make sense. Cat7 is still a huge PITA but I appreciate this video.
@8:49 "Adding the color stripe on the white wire causes interference..." *NO* The extra doping / processing costs money, and it's three more SKUs to keep up with. What interference is there going to be inside the little foil cage? NONE, it's a balanced pair. My other issues here... as has been said (and will continue to be repeated), Cat7 is not a thing. That explains why that cable is such crap... they cheaped out and couldn't be bothered to color code the white wires, they barely twisted the pairs, and they all have the same level of twist. The little plastic guide is there to maintain twist -- yes it helps align the wires, but it's _purpose_ is twist. The twist must be maintained as far as possible (i.e. all the way to the crimp contacts, but that's near impossible with a hand made cable.) The shielding should be maintained as far as possible. The cable jacket is part of the strain relief; it must go far enough inside the crimp housing to engage with the "cleat" at the back. (the drain clip is not a strain relief.) To avoid ground loops, it should only be bonded at one end. (consult local electrical code. ground loops are no joke.)
I agree with you. But my other issue is when he says the Standard in the USA is B. They are both standards and I know electrician do A and most computer people do B. Why I have no clue. I think way back in the day one of the colors had more twists than the other which isn't the case any longer. It comes down to what you are taught. www.flukenetworks.com/knowledge-base/application-or-standards-articles-copper/differences-between-wiring-codes-t568a-vs#:~:text=The%20only%20difference%20between%20T568A,two%20pair%20USOC%20wiring%20schemes.
@@kewitt1 I tend to ignore that religious debate. A vs. B... they're functionally the same. Which you use is a matter of personal preference, or company doctrine.
@@jfbeam Functionally they are not the same. A will let you use the second phone pair for POTS phones as is, the other will not. Some IT persons will wire B standard for that reason, to discourage use of their wire, to send POTS telephony on their wiring.
Great, clear, no blubbering, informative! Finally, someone mentions that the cable MUST ALWAYS be terminated in the A or B configuration at both ends! Can't have an A config at one end and a B config at the other. Thanks Mike.
586A is from the dinosaur days when telcos ruled the world and dictated everything. It's better if you happen to have an old PBX switch but... Eventually the networking upstarts took over and that's the B spec. We wanted to do things like power over ethernet and increase transmission speeds...
ummm yes you absolutely can, that's called a crossover cable. It's just that for the past 15 years or so, every device has Auto MDIX and that dynamically causes 1 of the devices to flip their transmission pins if required. PC's and Router's typically had the same pin-out and Switches/Bridges/Hubs had the alternate. If you were connecting a PC to a Hub, you use a straight cable. But if you were connecting it to directly to a router or to another PC, or router to another router, you needed to use a cross-over cable Also A and B are functionally identical, the 2 different standards simple swap the Rx and Tx pins (which dynamically get switched with Auto MDIX anyway, literally zero difference) You can also use both A and B cables in a line. I.e. if the wiring in the wall was done B standard, and you use an A standard patch cable at either end i.e. A-B-A it ends up again being a normal straight through cable anyway. Straight and cross-over cables are functionally identical these days, really doesn't matter for data transmission. However PoE is a different matter........... therefore its strongly suggested to always do straight-through cables in every instance and let Auto MDIX handle the data side (as it can't switch PoE pins)
Funny how things come back around. UTP unshielded twisted pair becomes shielded 20 years after STP fell by the wayside. Ie cat 6 then 7, 5 to 7 years ago.
Very detailed oriented, even a person like me without knowledge of any kind and follow and had it done. Thank you for sharing. Detailed oriented, Very educational.
Thank you for posting, The thing I al;ways hate when wiring Cat5, 5e, and 6 is getting the wires to line uo in the proper order. I like the comb for the CAT7 connector, letting you put the wires in order and trim them to the same length.
Try passthru connectors - you'll be in love. You can get less untwisted length, fewer pieces to assemble and a lovely way to check the connectors before crimping while the wires are in the plug. If you don't have noise meters and test equipment, I think it's the most reliable for best results!
I called Cat(erpillar) and they said they don't use Cat7. So I called the vet hospital and they said they had no idea what I was talking about. So I called a surgeon and told him to close his eyes and listen to your video and he said he was going to recommend your break-through closing up healing technique to all his collegues. He also wants to know where to get the tools!
Great video, very informative. I haven't needed to dive into wiring in a few years but I did enjoy the instruction here to stay on top of what it takes to put together CAT7.
Nice demonstration. What a pain it is to put rj-45 connectors on these cables. I am sure with experience it will be easier. Heck I have troubles putting connectors on Cat 6 cables. I like your demonstration , will definitely help me when I have to put connectors on that behemoth of a cable.
And while only “certified” to 5GbaseT at 40 (or maybe 55) meters, most cat5e cable exceeds the spec and will generally work for 10GbaseT up to 40M. If you use f/utp, s/utp, or s/ftp cat5e cable, with 350Mhz rating, you can essentially guarantee it will work at 10Gb up to 40+ meters. Cat6 is certified for 10Gb up to 55M. Use one of the shielded variants and you can probably run up 100M. Because of the larger gauge wire, cat6 is preferable if you’ll be using PoE. That will have lower heat and lower voltage/amperage losses. Cat5e and Cat6 are both much easier to work with than Cat6a
@@notsonominalMore signal attenuation and cross-talk means that the sending modulator cannot employ power save features (reduces power when receiver says signal is to hofh/good).
@@bayerbear6770 most power savings on Ethernet come from the sleep mode/disabling of the phy link, not from reduced power of the active link. So, while you are technically correct, cat6 cabling when used with “green ethernet” compliant switches and adapters can use less power, the difference won’t be significant. Standard ethernet signaling levels are only -2V to +2V at low current, so there isn’t a drastic amount to save. The savings due to phy sleep generally will far outweigh adaptive signal voltage adjustment. Reduced PoE losses can are where the big potential savings start to kick in. PoE is becoming more popular, at least in office environments, especially larger installations, but it’s still pretty rare in home or small office environments. However, while I generally would not recommend replacing existing cat5e with cat6 until you encounter a specific reason to do so, I would recommend cat6 for most new cabling, especially if any run is likely to exceed 40m
The shielding has nothing to do with cat6 or cat7. The first is called "Unshielded twisted pair (UTP)" and the second one is called "S/FTP" (ISO/IEC 11801 names). en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair#Cable_shielding
@@MikeFaucher The confusion probably comes from the fact that high cat ratings need shielding to achieve the required performance so I don't think you can find cat 7 utp.
Great Vid and great good info, I have not played with cat7 to get the finesse aquired to properly terminate blanks and keystones. This vid is now in my quick resource material for use in my cloud information database. Thank you. I've already called my supplier to send me blanks and keystones for cat7 cabling, and a 1000ft box of cat7. I knew it was going to be expensive. THATS AN UNDERSTATEMENT. Wow.
Cat7 is an abandoned standard - It transformed into what is now known as Cat6A. A "real" Cat7 cable would not be terminated with RJ45, but with TERA or GG45 connectors. Anytime you see a Cat7 cable being sold it's just a repackaged Cat6/6A cable that's in the box. Sometimes manufactures will sell shielded Cat6/6A cables at Cat7... Which is probably EXACTLY what you have in this video.
Never ratified is probably closer than abandoned but I get your point. You are right in that they are virtually identical except that Cat 6A is "usually" 24AWG and CAT 7 uses 23 AWG. I bought bulk cable and it was clearly marked as Cat 7. Thanks for the input.
That connector is not actually to the Cat7 spec. The spec calls for a GG45 connector which separates the pairs into the corners for better isolation. What you have there is a RJ45 modified for Cat7 cable.
As the CAT7 spec is not truly ratified, there are a number of variations that are being sold. The MFG of this part claimed it was so the average consumer would probable buy it. Good point though.
The Cat 6 twisted pairs have a different gear ratio to each other so they have a different number of twists in a given length, this means when they're all twisted together they form a near-perfect round shape for the outer sheath to be extruded on. Good quality Cat 6 should have a mylar tape layer under the sheath though.
Wondering if you even examined the diagram for the RJ45 connector. The idea is to MINIMIZE the amount of “perfectly straight” UNtwisted segments. That plastic guide should be forced all the way down the wires until it butts up against the still twisted segments AND that should also end up right down near the shielded band. That thing you made will crosstalk among all those straight segments. The ENTIRE idea behind twisted pairs is not to group them, it is because they cancel their own emissions and accept no external perturbations. A half inch of untwisted wire as you have it laid out will NOT handshake out to full rate. The negotiation will always end up at a lower rate and the wires will pass pulses from one set to another which is why it handshakes out to a lower rate.
Not sure if someone else commented, but is there a reason why you didn't use a punch down tool for the keystone termination? It does seem that when the CAT7 metal connector clamps down and clicks will provide the metal on metal contact to the wire, but at the expense of using pliers on both sides of the catch for the audible click... Zooming in tighter would have been nicer for the keystone. I've always gotten the way they have both the 568A & 568B color schemes confusing... All in all, a good video...
Thank you for the feedback. You can use a punch down tool but the way they made this connector you do not really need it because as you pointed out the back of the connector pushes in the back half and pushes in the wire. Thanks for the comment and question.
Thanks for the effort. However I'd wish you would talk more about differences between Cat6 and Cat7 other than shield - as I believe Cat6 can be also bought as STP. And Cat7 is apparently not a proper standard and unlikely to become one, Cat6A is improved version of Cat6 and usual advise is if one needs better than this, fibre is the way to go
You are right in the CAT 7 was not ratified officially, however it is still a specification. CAT6a is perfectly suitable for 10GbE are arguably as good as CAT 7 but the biggest difference is CAT 7 shields the pairs as well making it less prone to noise over long distances. There are two layers of shielding vs 1.
Mike Faucher Category 6 cable is perfectly suitable for 10Gb use also as long as the length is under 180 feet. This is usually more than enough for any run you will need to make, so really all that 6a or 7 does is change the frequency, make more twists, add more foil (in cat 7s case), and a twisted, inner divider for the wire pairs. It all sounds good on paper, but in the real world it equates out to more time to prep, and oftentimes yields no actual benefit. Just something to strongly consider because category 6 is also much cheaper to use than 6a or 7.
@@nosilverharbinger it's not really meant for the "average consumers" but more likely for professionals, cat7/8 are much cheaper and easier to prep/use than SFP (be it copper or fibber).
Lawn Mo There are many types of professionals out there that are currently installing category 5e and running all kinds of poe devices on it. A whole lot of those runs are unshielded also, again, with no issues. It is by far and away the most commonly sold and used type on the market. I’m not arguing that using category 6 or 6a is a bad thing at all, and getting shielded cables should improve signal quality all around in many environments which can prevent issues that are frankly difficult to identify otherwise. The thing is having it rise to the level that it actually impacts anything appreciably is so rare that it isn’t worth the added cost or effort. In fact, I’ll make the statement now that there are so many cat 5e environments out there, and so many NICs rated at 100Mbps or 1000Mbps max, that we won’t see many enterprises changing their cabling past category 5e for 10 years or more.
@@nosilverharbinger yes, there's the "theory" part and real life, I've seen losts of confusion as the CAT evolved, some cat below 7 can do 1gbe without issue, now "according to std and norms", you don't install cat7+ with the wrong plugs or in the wrong environment, datacenters have a legit needs for this _right now_, as they often have slightly larger electrical systems than most households :^). PoE devices are not really problematic, in case of CCTVs or remote device, you're less likely to have many ethernet cables doing PoE going the same direction and they probably won't max the link either, the same problem is found in telcoms where new ADSL technologies allowed to sync connections to higher speedrates, despite the signal attenuation being the same as before, thus creating "sync issues" when customer A starts watching netflix when customer B was playing a video game and his connection becomes too noisy to keep a connection and forces the modem to resync. If telcos in the past used shielded cables, we wouldn't have these kind of unexpected errors, and we'd have plenty more room for high syncs. So, yeah, even if it's overkill 50M of cat8.1 is barely 30% more than cat6/7 on amazon, if you were to build a new house or get your current place wired, then the best is still to go "overkill" unless you're really budget tight. edit: I also agree on your final statement, you won't see this in entreprise-grade networks, at best they will shift to what the market currently offers : routers and switches with 1Gbe switch and a few extra 2.5/5Gbe ports, possibly with agregation for their NAS or main server. This is cost effective and the easiest to deploy.
Fiber really is the best option for going from MDF to individual IDF’s. From separate racks 6A is more than enough for pretty much anyone except massive tech companies.
i don't have the adhesive conductor so i leave a bit more shield, twist it tightly and crimp over it to make good contact, the boot hides everything neatly
I would be very surprised to find out that this passes a Cat 7 end-to-end certification test. The second end was fine but the first connector had enough untwisted cable to cause a Near End Cross Talk (NEXT) fail.
That looks like a heck of a process. But seems easier than dealing with that rubber middle section. I like the idea of the plastic insert for alignment, in theory. Wouldn't surprise me to find otherwise once I actually try it.
Thank you : No one seem to know. Oh ya the white is on one side the color are on the other side. Do say where you get your tester to see if it is hooked up ok. Thank you.
WHAT i have is cat 6 true cable. its got the plastic foil around all 4 sets and a grd wire i dont have ground strands. i use the same connectors as you are using?
Mike, I would be running Cat 7 underground rated wire 200' underground in 1" black poly tube from my Netgear Nighthawk C7000v2 router to a PC in my Barn. The Router will receive its connection from a Wall plate fed by the CAT 7 then by Cat 5 to the router. The other side could receive the CAT 7 Directly into the back of the PC.Is this the best way to do this? Or should I eliminate the use of the wall plate in the house and go directly into the Router?
Mike, this video shows how not to do a RJ 45 connector for Cat 7, I'm doing this stuff for living, the way that connector looks after you crimped looks bad! I would get fired if I'm terminating Cat7 or 6 the way you do it. How many connectors you can do in 8 hours using your wrong method? Advice: after you stretched really nicely all the pairs, you line the colors in the right order than you cut all the stretched pair flash and after that you insert the liner (the little piece) and goes very easy and fast and push the liner as much as you can and cut flush at the edge of the liner and insert in the connector itself. Why all this because when you crimp you crimp the jacket of the cable and not the pairs of wire, crimping the jacket is much stronger and you don't have problem with the connector. Actually the manufacturer of the connector suggests to crimp the jacket not the wires!
Thanks for the feedback. As I run a semi-conductor company I certainly do not do this for a living so I am sure there are faster ways of doing this. I was merely showing the basic process for people like me who only do it for their homes. I have no doubt that you could do it much faster. Thanks for the insight and feedback as I do appreciate it. I am always wanting to learn.
how does cat 7 specyfication deal with parasitic ground loops? are all devices floating insolated from the earth ground, or are there some rules about using shielded and unshielded patch cables with this standards depending on which end is grounded? i remember that when we introduced shielded cat 5 network (not even cat 5e rubbish) we had big problems with rcd breakers triping between buildings way back and in the end we made all ends floating and only central point of star network had all cables shields grounded and we were even able to push 1 gigabit network trough that few years ago with no problems
You have a valid point however I have not any information on ground loops being an issue when used for shielding and noise protection. Great question but there is little information on this topic. Thanks for the input.
@@MikeFaucher Here in the UK shielded twisted pair has historically been rare however Germany seems to favour it and it's always been a PITA to terminate the grounds without causing the issues @kokodin refers to. The normal solution is providing a network ground separate from equipment ground and only grounding one end of any connection, typically the network cab end which is provided with it's own ground. The potential issues are going to be exactly the same with cat7. Commercially Cat7 is happening but for domestic installations I'm very sceptical of it's utility. Cat5 easily does 1Gbit and Cat6 10Gb. It's really hard to imagine a practical use for more in the home arriving within the lifetime of anything installed today.
Not much data on any rules but I would say very few are earth grounded and typically use electrical grounds which from my experience has not posed as big a problem as going to earth.
Grounding loops and grounding in general is handled by the end equipment no the connecting cable. This is one of the reasons why NEC moved to ground over N for sub panels in 2006. This issue is also generated by the connected equipment at either end and the (EMI filter method or lack there of) not the networking medium. Luckily most MDF-to-IDF connections are facilitated by non conductive fiber cables. If your using Cat7 on backbone, the connecting equipment if high-end enough to even saturate a Cat7 connection should already include some good EMI filters. You could alternatively include one in-line. Honestly though it shouldn't be a problem at all unless you have some shotty work somewhere electrically.
I guess to sum this up better Drain wires(the bare wire he is "grounding" with on the connectors). Are not actually intended to carry ground for end devices but to facilitate anti-attenuation. The exception to this rule is some specific PoE and CPE Devices that use it to incorporate an interruption circuit for lightning protection.
It literally doesn’t matter what you use to trim. The whole trick of RJ’s is in your thumb/forefinger and wrist motion. It honestly doesn’t even have to bottom out to make a good connection.
The wifi in my house is awful, so I took out a couple ceiling tiles and put cat 7 in the ceiling in my basement. Now I have Cat 7 Ethernet anywhere I need downstairs. Upstairs uses the semi-wired method (ethernet via a wifi extender) where needed.
I'm know the builders in my new apartment used Category 5 or 5e cables, not Cat 6. Also when you put an electric signal to one of my network cables you detect it not at the RJ45 outlet, but at the coaxial TV cable in the OTHER room. They must have drilled in somewhere where the cables go through and made a mess of them. Anyway I'll have to save-up a LOT to fix that and have all new cables embedded in the walls and have the walls repainted where the damage is.
I actually tried to actually count how many times he actually used the word actually, but I actually lost count after I actually reached infinity. Anyways, it was actually a really informative video on how to actually do the cabling correctly....lol
Thanx Mike. Much appreciated for the advise and the comfort. Just one more question. The flat white Cat 7 that I will will be connected to my Huawei 5G Router which is mounted on top of my roof. There is about a meter from the roof to the router and it will always be exposed to the sun, rain, wind and all the conditions of weather, will this compromise quality of connection as the flat cables are not fortified like the round cables?
The issue you will have is the standard flat cable is only indoor rated so it will deteriorate pretty quickly. I would make sure you get so outdoor cable. or plan to replace it every once in awhile.
@@csorrows PVC works as well. The underlying assumption is both materials can be reused for a tunnel. Why pay for something when it can be found for free?
I use coloured marker pens to indicate the end of the white wires, just in case they get crossed up. They are getting discarded anyway so it doesn't cause a problem.
The sticky side of that tape is very "iffy" wrt conductivity - just try it using a multimeter... To me, that part is actually introducing more possibility of not having a good connection for your outer shielding.
By itself that is true but when you crimp or clamp it down it seems to work. I did test it with a multimeter and got less than 2 ohms. Great point and thanks for bringing it up.
I have found that crimping quick instead of slow can deflect the contacts as they pierce the insulation. I always crimp slow for that reason. This is the first demo I have seen where pins 7&8 are started first instead of 1&2. It doesn't make any difference but is just an observation.
the correct naming is : Cat 5 : UTP - U = unshielded, TP = twisted pairs Cat 5e : STP - S = shielded (net), ... Cat 6 grade 1 : UTP Cat 6 grade 2 : STP Cat 6 grade 3 : S/FTP - Shielded (net) + Foil (over each) TP ... (commonly referred to as Grade 3 in France) Cat 7 : S/FTP ... (also known here as satellite cable) Cat 8 : ....? I don't know never used the stuff wire gauge goes up in section for each category, higher section = more data flow, more shielding (net and foil per TP) = less if any EM interference
It's a shame that the RJ45 has a nice boot to hide the shielding yet the keystone does not so it shows it all - leaving it open to the elements. Still - nice to know how to install a CAT7 end - cheers.
I hope that if you do a project you work a bit faster lol. Also I hope that if you actually sell an installation with cat7 you dont just do a wiremap test. If the costumer is satisfied with just a wiremap test, then he doesnt need cat7 and you can go with cheaper cat6.
Thanks for the feedback. My intent was showing the two extremes as well as the most common. Shielded CAT6 is not very common in the industry and is typically used in certain applications. Thanks for pointing that out.
@@MikeFaucher in entire Europe shielding is very important due to Several radio frequency regulations. It’s just idiotic, to use unshielded cables. Even DSL Lines have meanwhile big problems with ingress and interference. From an engineering point of view, unshielded cables have to be banned. It’s based of Chinese business plans, that unshielded cat cables are still being produced
@@LunaticCharade sorry, I don't understand the point here. Do you mean problems with earth loops? This is easy to avoid: use a shielded cable but do not connect the shielding to the ground
@@T.P.030 Yeeeeah. See, shielding does not work if it's not grounded. A better solution is to make good electronics instead and only use shielding when there is really no other solution.
Couple of years ago, I was working in a company to support their retail locations. Some of the locations still preinstalled with cat5. I wanted to try a cat7 cable but it wasn't compatible/working between the switch to the pos.
Well , i guess it depends on the Cable you use , the CAT 8/7 cable i use still has a tiny blue , orange , green and brown stripe on the white cables . You dont have to pay that much attention to not mix them up ( which i prefer ) and since my eyes dont get better as i am getting older i use i magnifiing glas which usually is used for evaluate jewelry to ensure that the cables are in T-568B Order before i clamp them down .
I find this as good value, but I've been only been doing this this for 39 years, maybe you're experience is better? he is slow, but this is a TRAINING video. okay. he just did a wiremap and didn't actually qualify the cat 7 connection.
@@kenmckittrick7876 okay one of the worst I've seen is an exaggeration but having the sheath cut back past the RJ45 means that when you crimp the module the strain relief is on the 8 contacts rather than on the cable as a whole. Good chance of failure at a later date of someone gives it a tug.
Wired my house some 20 years ago with CAT-5E. Still works, and would be a PITA to replace with CAT-7. Looks like my old cat5e crimper will work with cat7 connectors, (but not its built in stripper). Also my old cat5 RJ45s are no good either.
@@MikeFaucher AT&T Uverse modem won't spit out 1G speeds from internet, in fact few home broadbands will. 10base1000 and 10000 are great for computer to computer LAN, but unless you have a fat pipe coming into your house the WWW isn't that fast.
@@scharkalvin Agreed. I did not install 10GbE for the internet but rather to my internal servers and NAS units. I use only central storage and do not store anything on local systems..
Simple cable tester used at the end of the video. It didn't test for the quality of the connection just a connectivity test. If you pay that much for this cable, you should use a better tester. Thanks!
Valid point and I am looking into some Fluke testers. Typically I use a functional data copy test but completely agree I need better test equipment. Thanks
Wouldn't you want to maintain the twist as close to the crimp as possible. That length of straight can crosstalk within the connector. Been terminating since Cat 3 days.
if you run them and straighten them out using a draping technique over your finger, no need for the load bar. Once you get them straight they'll go right in. Did tons of cable for a data center and it's the quickest and best way. practice makes perfect but load bar it when your finger's tired! hahah
I just bought Cat 7 Flat Ethernet Cable for my Huawei 5G CPE WiFi Router. Will it be reliable for my connectivity? I see most shops are now selling it and very less of Cat 6.
Some of the new panels are made to be grounded which is best, however as long as one side is and it is grounded to your networked equipment, you should be OK. You can search for cat 6a/7/8 panels and see what they look like. Great question.
My former employer (I'm retired now) would always buy the cheapest cable and connectors possible and then blame the in the installer (me) if there were problems. I wish I had worked for someone like you.
@@MikeFaucher I know with some Cat8 cables you can use the same kind of connectors that you are using here though instead of the modular ones. I a smaller 22awg Cable from a company called Supra that you can use connectors like these on but the connectors. As a matter of fact, the size of the wire looks smaller than the blue one you are using in this video.
Thanks for the information.
---------------
Somethings to keep in mind when selecting Cat cable:
5e - up to 1Gbs at 100m (328 ft)
6 - up to 10Gbs at ~37-55m (~121-180 ft)
6a - up to 10Gbs at 100m
7 - up to 10Gbs at 100m - up to *100Gbs at 15m (~49 ft), Fully shielded, *Class F, not recognized by the TIA/EIA.
8 - up to 40Gbs at ~30m (98 ft) - Fully shielded,
UTP - Unshielded Twisted Pair
------------
Thanks for the input.
21:50 "I got a click out of 1....and click out of 2."
If you know you know
Three is binding.
Counter Rotation on 4 probably a spool in there.
Nothing on 3. Now back at the beggining...
Using the tool that Bill and I made.
and as always, have a nice day
As a 10 year experienced network technician, this is the first time i have seen someone use a copper tape for the shield.most people in the field just twist the shield in one string and crimp it.
Nice beginner video
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.
or insert a boot
Great video! Thank you so much for your clear explanations and demonstration. Suggestion: it would have been great if during the keystone demonstration, the camera stayed zoomed in making it easier to see the detail of how the wires were laying in the keystone, etc.
Agreed, it was one of my earlier videos and was still learning the process. Thanks for the input.
This was a tad nostalgic for me, about 25 years ago I had a job installing networks. Companies were changing over from giant tower computers with some inch floppy boot disk with drive controller boards I used to have hanging on my wall, they were 2 feet by 2 feet just to run the single floppy drive. That was all replaced with a standard IBM 386 computer. The network for that grocery store chain was upgraded to CAT5 which was top dog at the time. I still remember terminating those long runs, getting out the tester and making sure I did it right. Pulling the cables climbing through fiberglass and hanging from rafters in factory buildings hundreds of feet above the floor. It was hard work, sweaty itchy work but I enjoyed it. Hated my boss and his meathead brother. I was in the local 5 electricians union and when I complained about them they laid me off. I tried to fight it saying they only hire relatives. 90% of that crew was related in some way. I learned a lot and moved on with my life. That company is a vacant lot today so I guess I win. Nice video.
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.
Dude. The striped wire colors have saved me a number of times!
Agreed.
Very helpful thank you. I am wiring my house with Cat7 and I was perplexed as to why they would put the colors on the keystone cover and not the actual block part. This video made it make sense. Cat7 is still a huge PITA but I appreciate this video.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the feedback
@8:49 "Adding the color stripe on the white wire causes interference..." *NO* The extra doping / processing costs money, and it's three more SKUs to keep up with. What interference is there going to be inside the little foil cage? NONE, it's a balanced pair.
My other issues here... as has been said (and will continue to be repeated), Cat7 is not a thing. That explains why that cable is such crap... they cheaped out and couldn't be bothered to color code the white wires, they barely twisted the pairs, and they all have the same level of twist. The little plastic guide is there to maintain twist -- yes it helps align the wires, but it's _purpose_ is twist. The twist must be maintained as far as possible (i.e. all the way to the crimp contacts, but that's near impossible with a hand made cable.) The shielding should be maintained as far as possible. The cable jacket is part of the strain relief; it must go far enough inside the crimp housing to engage with the "cleat" at the back. (the drain clip is not a strain relief.) To avoid ground loops, it should only be bonded at one end. (consult local electrical code. ground loops are no joke.)
Thanks for the detail.
I agree with you. But my other issue is when he says the Standard in the USA is B. They are both standards and I know electrician do A and most computer people do B. Why I have no clue. I think way back in the day one of the colors had more twists than the other which isn't the case any longer. It comes down to what you are taught.
www.flukenetworks.com/knowledge-base/application-or-standards-articles-copper/differences-between-wiring-codes-t568a-vs#:~:text=The%20only%20difference%20between%20T568A,two%20pair%20USOC%20wiring%20schemes.
@@kewitt1 I tend to ignore that religious debate. A vs. B... they're functionally the same. Which you use is a matter of personal preference, or company doctrine.
@@jfbeam Functionally they are not the same. A will let you use the second phone pair for POTS phones as is, the other will not. Some IT persons will wire B standard for that reason, to discourage use of their wire, to send POTS telephony on their wiring.
www.flukenetworks.com/knowledge-base/application-or-standards-articles-copper/differences-between-wiring-codes-t568a-vs#:~:text=The%20only%20difference%20between%20T568A,two%20pair%20USOC%20wiring%20schemes.
So darn exciting ! I just decided to quit watching Nascar & NFL so I can make this my full time sports channel ! Keep it up !
Funny, thanks.
Great, clear, no blubbering, informative! Finally, someone mentions that the cable MUST ALWAYS be terminated in the A or B configuration at both ends! Can't have an A config at one end and a B config at the other. Thanks Mike.
Thank you for the great feedback, it is appreciated.
586A is from the dinosaur days when telcos ruled the world and dictated everything. It's better if you happen to have an old PBX switch but... Eventually the networking upstarts took over and that's the B spec. We wanted to do things like power over ethernet and increase transmission speeds...
Sure you can. It's a crossover cable which was *essential* in days before auto-negotiate.
ummm yes you absolutely can, that's called a crossover cable. It's just that for the past 15 years or so, every device has Auto MDIX and that dynamically causes 1 of the devices to flip their transmission pins if required. PC's and Router's typically had the same pin-out and Switches/Bridges/Hubs had the alternate. If you were connecting a PC to a Hub, you use a straight cable. But if you were connecting it to directly to a router or to another PC, or router to another router, you needed to use a cross-over cable
Also A and B are functionally identical, the 2 different standards simple swap the Rx and Tx pins (which dynamically get switched with Auto MDIX anyway, literally zero difference)
You can also use both A and B cables in a line. I.e. if the wiring in the wall was done B standard, and you use an A standard patch cable at either end i.e. A-B-A it ends up again being a normal straight through cable anyway.
Straight and cross-over cables are functionally identical these days, really doesn't matter for data transmission. However PoE is a different matter........... therefore its strongly suggested to always do straight-through cables in every instance and let Auto MDIX handle the data side (as it can't switch PoE pins)
What about when you need a crossover? Even though it is rare...
Funny how things come back around. UTP unshielded twisted pair becomes shielded 20 years after STP fell by the wayside. Ie cat 6 then 7, 5 to 7 years ago.
Very detailed oriented, even a person like me without knowledge of any kind and follow and had it done. Thank you for sharing. Detailed oriented, Very educational.
Thank you for the feedback. I truly appreciate it.
Thank you for posting, The thing I al;ways hate when wiring Cat5, 5e, and 6 is getting the wires to line uo in the proper order. I like the comb for the CAT7 connector, letting you put the wires in order and trim them to the same length.
Those connectors are available for cat5e and cat6. They just cost more than standard connectors.
Try passthru connectors - you'll be in love. You can get less untwisted length, fewer pieces to assemble and a lovely way to check the connectors before crimping while the wires are in the plug. If you don't have noise meters and test equipment, I think it's the most reliable for best results!
That's just SFTP - Don't forget the other types of CAT7. Also, some of the Beldon range has the stripe on the white.
Good point and thanks for the feedback!
I have only been able to find SFTP or better... (Well, heavier shielding anyway...), per ISO/IEC 11801, CAT7 must be SFTP.
If it's not SFTP it's not CAT7.
Yes it does... Inland and Monoprice's does also... Panduit doesn't and it's the best you can buy.. At least thats what they tell us.... LOL
@@MrMindlink .
I called Cat(erpillar) and they said they don't use Cat7. So I called the vet hospital and they said they had no idea what I was talking about. So I called a surgeon and told him to close his eyes and listen to your video and he said he was going to recommend your break-through closing up healing technique to all his collegues. He also wants to know where to get the tools!
😀
Excellent tutorial for terminating rj45 cables! THANK YOU.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, very informative. I haven't needed to dive into wiring in a few years but I did enjoy the instruction here to stay on top of what it takes to put together CAT7.
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.
Nice demonstration. What a pain it is to put rj-45 connectors on these cables. I am sure with experience it will be easier. Heck I have troubles putting connectors on Cat 6 cables. I like your demonstration , will definitely help me when I have to put connectors on that behemoth of a cable.
Awesome. Thanks for the feedback.
I'm still using CAT5E. Works perfectly and it's easy to install.
And while only “certified” to 5GbaseT at 40 (or maybe 55) meters, most cat5e cable exceeds the spec and will generally work for 10GbaseT up to 40M. If you use f/utp, s/utp, or s/ftp cat5e cable, with 350Mhz rating, you can essentially guarantee it will work at 10Gb up to 40+ meters.
Cat6 is certified for 10Gb up to 55M. Use one of the shielded variants and you can probably run up 100M.
Because of the larger gauge wire, cat6 is preferable if you’ll be using PoE. That will have lower heat and lower voltage/amperage losses.
Cat5e and Cat6 are both much easier to work with than Cat6a
Yes. But many switches run hotter.
@@bayerbear6770 elaborate / reference? (genuinely interested)
@@notsonominalMore signal attenuation and cross-talk means that the sending modulator cannot employ power save features (reduces power when receiver says signal is to hofh/good).
@@bayerbear6770 most power savings on Ethernet come from the sleep mode/disabling of the phy link, not from reduced power of the active link. So, while you are technically correct, cat6 cabling when used with “green ethernet” compliant switches and adapters can use less power, the difference won’t be significant. Standard ethernet signaling levels are only -2V to +2V at low current, so there isn’t a drastic amount to save.
The savings due to phy sleep generally will far outweigh adaptive signal voltage adjustment. Reduced PoE losses can are where the big potential savings start to kick in.
PoE is becoming more popular, at least in office environments, especially larger installations, but it’s still pretty rare in home or small office environments. However, while I generally would not recommend replacing existing cat5e with cat6 until you encounter a specific reason to do so, I would recommend cat6 for most new cabling, especially if any run is likely to exceed 40m
Thank you for making this video. Now I know I will not be buying a roll of Cat7 😅👍
Glad it was helpful!
What does it land on in a home ?
The shielding has nothing to do with cat6 or cat7. The first is called "Unshielded twisted pair (UTP)" and the second one is called "S/FTP" (ISO/IEC 11801 names).
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair#Cable_shielding
Thank you for the feedback.
@@MikeFaucher The confusion probably comes from the fact that high cat ratings need shielding to achieve the required performance so I don't think you can find cat 7 utp.
c muller I have not seen any. Thanks
@@cmuller1441 UTP Cat7 is not possible as the specification (even though not really official) calls for the shielding.
Great Vid and great good info, I have not played with cat7 to get the finesse aquired to properly terminate blanks and keystones. This vid is now in my quick resource material for use in my cloud information database. Thank you. I've already called my supplier to send me blanks and keystones for cat7 cabling, and a 1000ft box of cat7. I knew it was going to be expensive. THATS AN UNDERSTATEMENT.
Wow.
Thank. Appreciate the feedback.
Cat7 is an abandoned standard - It transformed into what is now known as Cat6A. A "real" Cat7 cable would not be terminated with RJ45, but with TERA or GG45 connectors. Anytime you see a Cat7 cable being sold it's just a repackaged Cat6/6A cable that's in the box. Sometimes manufactures will sell shielded Cat6/6A cables at Cat7... Which is probably EXACTLY what you have in this video.
Never ratified is probably closer than abandoned but I get your point. You are right in that they are virtually identical except that Cat 6A is "usually" 24AWG and CAT 7 uses 23 AWG. I bought bulk cable and it was clearly marked as Cat 7. Thanks for the input.
This explains my confusion over this video since my Cat6A cables looked exactly like Cat7 shown there.
Great vid, though you should learn the difference between UTP, FTP and STP cable. Foil isn't unique to cat7 only.
Thanks for the input.
There is even cat 5 braided and foiled cables. The difference between categories ethernet cables has nothing to to do with such bonus features.
That connector is not actually to the Cat7 spec. The spec calls for a GG45 connector which separates the pairs into the corners for better isolation. What you have there is a RJ45 modified for Cat7 cable.
As the CAT7 spec is not truly ratified, there are a number of variations that are being sold. The MFG of this part claimed it was so the average consumer would probable buy it. Good point though.
make a video with the correct connector please
The Cat 6 twisted pairs have a different gear ratio to each other so they have a different number of twists in a given length, this means when they're all twisted together they form a near-perfect round shape for the outer sheath to be extruded on. Good quality Cat 6 should have a mylar tape layer under the sheath though.
Thanks for your input.
Thank you so much. This was the exact information I was looking for to terminate my cat7 cable.
Great to hear and thanks for the feedback!
Wondering if you even examined the diagram for the RJ45 connector. The idea is to MINIMIZE the amount of “perfectly straight” UNtwisted segments. That plastic guide should be forced all the way down the wires until it butts up against the still twisted segments AND that should also end up right down near the shielded band. That thing you made will crosstalk among all those straight segments. The ENTIRE idea behind twisted pairs is not to group them, it is because they cancel their own emissions and accept no external perturbations. A half inch of untwisted wire as you have it laid out will NOT handshake out to full rate. The negotiation will always end up at a lower rate and the wires will pass pulses from one set to another which is why it handshakes out to a lower rate.
Not sure if someone else commented, but is there a reason why you didn't use a punch down tool for the keystone termination?
It does seem that when the CAT7 metal connector clamps down and clicks will provide the metal on metal contact to the wire, but at the expense of using pliers on both sides of the catch for the audible click...
Zooming in tighter would have been nicer for the keystone. I've always gotten the way they have both the 568A & 568B color schemes confusing...
All in all, a good video...
Thank you for the feedback. You can use a punch down tool but the way they made this connector you do not really need it because as you pointed out the back of the connector pushes in the back half and pushes in the wire. Thanks for the comment and question.
Thank you so much for making this video. I ran some Cat 7 cable to an outbuilding and needed to terminate both ends properly. Your video was awesome.
Awesome. Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it.
I knew it would be more work than cat 6 but damn what a pain in the ass! Good video. Thanks!
Thank you!
Thanks for the effort. However I'd wish you would talk more about differences between Cat6 and Cat7 other than shield - as I believe Cat6 can be also bought as STP. And Cat7 is apparently not a proper standard and unlikely to become one, Cat6A is improved version of Cat6 and usual advise is if one needs better than this, fibre is the way to go
You are right in the CAT 7 was not ratified officially, however it is still a specification. CAT6a is perfectly suitable for 10GbE are arguably as good as CAT 7 but the biggest difference is CAT 7 shields the pairs as well making it less prone to noise over long distances. There are two layers of shielding vs 1.
Mike Faucher Category 6 cable is perfectly suitable for 10Gb use also as long as the length is under 180 feet. This is usually more than enough for any run you will need to make, so really all that 6a or 7 does is change the frequency, make more twists, add more foil (in cat 7s case), and a twisted, inner divider for the wire pairs. It all sounds good on paper, but in the real world it equates out to more time to prep, and oftentimes yields no actual benefit.
Just something to strongly consider because category 6 is also much cheaper to use than 6a or 7.
@@nosilverharbinger it's not really meant for the "average consumers" but more likely for professionals, cat7/8 are much cheaper and easier to prep/use than SFP (be it copper or fibber).
Lawn Mo There are many types of professionals out there that are currently installing category 5e and running all kinds of poe devices on it. A whole lot of those runs are unshielded also, again, with no issues. It is by far and away the most commonly sold and used type on the market.
I’m not arguing that using category 6 or 6a is a bad thing at all, and getting shielded cables should improve signal quality all around in many environments which can prevent issues that are frankly difficult to identify otherwise. The thing is having it rise to the level that it actually impacts anything appreciably is so rare that it isn’t worth the added cost or effort.
In fact, I’ll make the statement now that there are so many cat 5e environments out there, and so many NICs rated at 100Mbps or 1000Mbps max, that we won’t see many enterprises changing their cabling past category 5e for 10 years or more.
@@nosilverharbinger yes, there's the "theory" part and real life, I've seen losts of confusion as the CAT evolved, some cat below 7 can do 1gbe without issue, now "according to std and norms", you don't install cat7+ with the wrong plugs or in the wrong environment, datacenters have a legit needs for this _right now_, as they often have slightly larger electrical systems than most households :^).
PoE devices are not really problematic, in case of CCTVs or remote device, you're less likely to have many ethernet cables doing PoE going the same direction and they probably won't max the link either, the same problem is found in telcoms where new ADSL technologies allowed to sync connections to higher speedrates, despite the signal attenuation being the same as before, thus creating "sync issues" when customer A starts watching netflix when customer B was playing a video game and his connection becomes too noisy to keep a connection and forces the modem to resync.
If telcos in the past used shielded cables, we wouldn't have these kind of unexpected errors, and we'd have plenty more room for high syncs.
So, yeah, even if it's overkill 50M of cat8.1 is barely 30% more than cat6/7 on amazon, if you were to build a new house or get your current place wired, then the best is still to go "overkill" unless you're really budget tight.
edit: I also agree on your final statement, you won't see this in entreprise-grade networks, at best they will shift to what the market currently offers : routers and switches with 1Gbe switch and a few extra 2.5/5Gbe ports, possibly with agregation for their NAS or main server. This is cost effective and the easiest to deploy.
Great video thanks Mike. Tells me everything I need to know to make my own cables ..
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.
For the time it takes make one end of this cable, let alone both ends, fiber is looking better and better.
Did you watch that fibre splicing video?
Yea you wouldn't be making many of those in a day (at least not and stay sane). And i though making CAT 6 was slow...
Fiber really is the best option for going from MDF to individual IDF’s. From separate racks 6A is more than enough for pretty much anyone except massive tech companies.
Great video. Please have more of them thank you
Thanks for the feedback.
i don't have the adhesive conductor so i leave a bit more shield, twist it tightly and crimp over it to make good contact, the boot hides everything neatly
That certainly works. Thanks for the feedback.
I would be very surprised to find out that this passes a Cat 7 end-to-end certification test. The second end was fine but the first connector had enough untwisted cable to cause a Near End Cross Talk (NEXT) fail.
@ProfessionalAmateur The blades hold a lot better than you think they would. Try putting an RJ on some spare cable and try to pull it off.
Very clear video. Thanks Mike.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback!
I actually enjoyed your video actually. actually.
I appreciate that
That looks like a heck of a process. But seems easier than dealing with that rubber middle section. I like the idea of the plastic insert for alignment, in theory. Wouldn't surprise me to find otherwise once I actually try it.
Thanks for the feedback.
the alignment thing is a massive improvement, although i would argue passthrough ends are still better
The adhesive on the foil tape would actually reduce the conductivity of the shield. Especially in a zero volt application like this.
Actually after you crimp it the resistance measures very low
Thank you : No one seem to know. Oh ya the white is on one side the color are on the other side. Do say where you get your tester to see if it is hooked up ok. Thank you.
Nice video!
Don't you perform a bit error test on a cable?
With the tester I use, I only test connection. I do not have equipment that will check for bit error rates. Great question.
WHAT i have is cat 6 true cable. its got the plastic foil around all 4 sets and a grd wire i dont have ground strands. i use the same connectors as you are using?
Most People do not know that there could be an outer shielding/foil (S/U/xxx) and there may be optional for each pair another second shielding (x/FTP)
Good point.
Thank you for taking the time to provide this very informative video.
Thanks and appreciate the feedback.
Mike, I would be running Cat 7 underground rated wire 200' underground in 1" black poly tube from my Netgear Nighthawk C7000v2 router to a PC in my Barn. The Router will receive its connection from a Wall plate fed by the CAT 7 then by Cat 5 to the router. The other side could receive the CAT 7 Directly into the back of the PC.Is this the best way to do this? Or should I eliminate the use of the wall plate in the house and go directly into the Router?
No that should work fine. I would go with the wall plate for convenience. Thanks for the feedback.
Mike, this video shows how not to do a RJ 45 connector for Cat 7, I'm doing this stuff for living, the way that connector looks after you crimped looks bad! I would get fired if I'm terminating Cat7 or 6 the way you do it. How many connectors you can do in 8 hours using your wrong method? Advice: after you stretched really nicely all the pairs, you line the colors in the right order than you cut all the stretched pair flash and after that you insert the liner (the little piece) and goes very easy and fast and push the liner as much as you can and cut flush at the edge of the liner and insert in the connector itself. Why all this because when you crimp you crimp the jacket of the cable and not the pairs of wire, crimping the jacket is much stronger and you don't have problem with the connector. Actually the manufacturer of the connector suggests to crimp the jacket not the wires!
Thanks for the feedback. As I run a semi-conductor company I certainly do not do this for a living so I am sure there are faster ways of doing this. I was merely showing the basic process for people like me who only do it for their homes. I have no doubt that you could do it much faster. Thanks for the insight and feedback as I do appreciate it. I am always wanting to learn.
Very good video. But how do you know which wire goes where?
Can you please clarify the question. The wire is a standard pin out as defined in the video T568B.
how does cat 7 specyfication deal with parasitic ground loops? are all devices floating insolated from the earth ground, or are there some rules about using shielded and unshielded patch cables with this standards depending on which end is grounded?
i remember that when we introduced shielded cat 5 network (not even cat 5e rubbish) we had big problems with rcd breakers triping between buildings way back and in the end we made all ends floating and only central point of star network had all cables shields grounded and we were even able to push 1 gigabit network trough that few years ago with no problems
You have a valid point however I have not any information on ground loops being an issue when used for shielding and noise protection. Great question but there is little information on this topic. Thanks for the input.
@@MikeFaucher Here in the UK shielded twisted pair has historically been rare however Germany seems to favour it and it's always been a PITA to terminate the grounds without causing the issues @kokodin refers to. The normal solution is providing a network ground separate from equipment ground and only grounding one end of any connection, typically the network cab end which is provided with it's own ground. The potential issues are going to be exactly the same with cat7.
Commercially Cat7 is happening but for domestic installations I'm very sceptical of it's utility. Cat5 easily does 1Gbit and Cat6 10Gb. It's really hard to imagine a practical use for more in the home arriving within the lifetime of anything installed today.
Not much data on any rules but I would say very few are earth grounded and typically use electrical grounds which from my experience has not posed as big a problem as going to earth.
Grounding loops and grounding in general is handled by the end equipment no the connecting cable. This is one of the reasons why NEC moved to ground over N for sub panels in 2006. This issue is also generated by the connected equipment at either end and the (EMI filter method or lack there of) not the networking medium. Luckily most MDF-to-IDF connections are facilitated by non conductive fiber cables. If your using Cat7 on backbone, the connecting equipment if high-end enough to even saturate a Cat7 connection should already include some good EMI filters. You could alternatively include one in-line. Honestly though it shouldn't be a problem at all unless you have some shotty work somewhere electrically.
I guess to sum this up better Drain wires(the bare wire he is "grounding" with on the connectors). Are not actually intended to carry ground for end devices but to facilitate anti-attenuation. The exception to this rule is some specific PoE and CPE Devices that use it to incorporate an interruption circuit for lightning protection.
13:10 try scissors sometime for the wire trimming. MUCH neater cut. nicely made video.
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.
It literally doesn’t matter what you use to trim. The whole trick of RJ’s is in your thumb/forefinger and wrist motion. It honestly doesn’t even have to bottom out to make a good connection.
The wifi in my house is awful, so I took out a couple ceiling tiles and put cat 7 in the ceiling in my basement. Now I have Cat 7 Ethernet anywhere I need downstairs.
Upstairs uses the semi-wired method (ethernet via a wifi extender) where needed.
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it and good luck!
I'm know the builders in my new apartment used Category 5 or 5e cables, not Cat 6. Also when you put an electric signal to one of my network cables you detect it not at the RJ45 outlet, but at the coaxial TV cable in the OTHER room. They must have drilled in somewhere where the cables go through and made a mess of them. Anyway I'll have to save-up a LOT to fix that and have all new cables embedded in the walls and have the walls repainted where the damage is.
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.
I like the shielding and the crimp contact for the grounding. It must make the RJ45 much stronger on the cable.
MrJordanwain Yes it is pretty stiff. Thanks for watching.
I actually tried to actually count how many times he actually used the word actually, but I actually lost count after I actually reached infinity. Anyways, it was actually a really informative video on how to actually do the cabling correctly....lol
Thanks and you are right. Early days.
Very useful video. Thank you a lot.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback.
Good video, question where did you pick up the habit of saying Actually :)
An older video, working on it.
Thanx Mike.
Much appreciated for the advise and the comfort.
Just one more question.
The flat white Cat 7 that I will will be connected to my Huawei 5G Router which is mounted on top of my roof. There is about a meter from the roof to the router and it will always
be exposed to the sun, rain, wind and all the conditions of weather, will this compromise quality of connection as the flat cables are not fortified like the round cables?
The issue you will have is the standard flat cable is only indoor rated so it will deteriorate pretty quickly. I would make sure you get so outdoor cable. or plan to replace it every once in awhile.
Since the exterior run is short you might try making your own tunnel out of a trashed aluminum lawn chair.
@@brianhack7216 Trashed aluminum lawn chair? That's pretty random rofl. Just a stick of PVC pipe and maybe an elbow or 2 would work just fine.
@@csorrows PVC works as well. The underlying assumption is both materials can be reused for a tunnel. Why pay for something when it can be found for free?
@@brianhack7216 I just found it funny you called out specifically for an aluminum lawn chair.
I use coloured marker pens to indicate the end of the white wires, just in case they get crossed up. They are getting discarded anyway so it doesn't cause a problem.
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.
Just what I needed! Thank you so much sir!
Great to hear. Thanks!
TY Mike for very nice explanation and tutorial.
Thank you for the feedback. Appreciate it
The sticky side of that tape is very "iffy" wrt conductivity - just try it using a multimeter... To me, that part is actually introducing more possibility of not having a good connection for your outer shielding.
By itself that is true but when you crimp or clamp it down it seems to work. I did test it with a multimeter and got less than 2 ohms. Great point and thanks for bringing it up.
I have found that crimping quick instead of slow can deflect the contacts as they pierce the insulation. I always crimp slow for that reason.
This is the first demo I have seen where pins 7&8 are started first instead of 1&2. It doesn't make any difference but is just an observation.
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.
Very well made. Exactly what I wanted. Thank you.
Great to hear! Thanks for the feedback.
"Short video" he says lol. Thx for the info btw
Good point. I guess it is not that short... Thanks for the feedback.
the correct naming is :
Cat 5 : UTP - U = unshielded, TP = twisted pairs
Cat 5e : STP - S = shielded (net), ...
Cat 6 grade 1 : UTP
Cat 6 grade 2 : STP
Cat 6 grade 3 : S/FTP - Shielded (net) + Foil (over each) TP ... (commonly referred to as Grade 3 in France)
Cat 7 : S/FTP ... (also known here as satellite cable)
Cat 8 : ....? I don't know never used the stuff
wire gauge goes up in section for each category, higher section = more data flow, more shielding (net and foil per TP) = less if any EM interference
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.
Thank you very much for this video!
Glad you found it useful.
It's a shame that the RJ45 has a nice boot to hide the shielding yet the keystone does not so it shows it all - leaving it open to the elements.
Still - nice to know how to install a CAT7 end - cheers.
Thank you much. They have better keystones now since I made this video. Thanks for the feedback.
I usually never buy the best version of a thing out there, i just kind of buy the thing in the middle.I decided to buy cat 6
Daily Captures No bad choice. Cat 6 works great for up to 5GbE.
@@MikeFaucher GbE? Gigabit per eternity? 😂
@@diegohuijbregtsgarcia5102 Funny! Thanks.
You can get Cat6 SFTP which would be the same as that Cat7 shown?
Apparently it is not the same. Mostly the life of the cable but also the speeds are vastly different.
Yes you are right. Thanks for the feedback.
I hope that if you do a project you work a bit faster lol. Also I hope that if you actually sell an installation with cat7 you dont just do a wiremap test. If the costumer is satisfied with just a wiremap test, then he doesnt need cat7 and you can go with cheaper cat6.
Thanks for the input.
Oh my goodness mixing utp and sftp 🙄 with cat6 and 7 what a mess.
Thanks for the feedback. My intent was showing the two extremes as well as the most common. Shielded CAT6 is not very common in the industry and is typically used in certain applications. Thanks for pointing that out.
@@MikeFaucher in entire Europe shielding is very important due to Several radio frequency regulations. It’s just idiotic, to use unshielded cables. Even DSL Lines have meanwhile big problems with ingress and interference. From an engineering point of view, unshielded cables have to be banned. It’s based of Chinese business plans, that unshielded cat cables are still being produced
@@T.P.030 Really... so on what end should your shielded cables be grounded?
@@LunaticCharade sorry, I don't understand the point here. Do you mean problems with earth loops? This is easy to avoid: use a shielded cable but do not connect the shielding to the ground
@@T.P.030 Yeeeeah. See, shielding does not work if it's not grounded. A better solution is to make good electronics instead and only use shielding when there is really no other solution.
Couple of years ago, I was working in a company to support their retail locations. Some of the locations still preinstalled with cat5. I wanted to try a cat7 cable but it wasn't compatible/working between the switch to the pos.
Not sure why, it should be backwards compatible except for support of the grounding.
Well , i guess it depends on the Cable you use , the CAT 8/7 cable i use still has a tiny blue , orange , green and brown stripe on the white cables . You dont have to pay that much attention to not mix them up ( which i prefer ) and since my eyes dont get better as i am getting older i use i magnifiing glas which usually is used for evaluate jewelry to ensure that the cables are in T-568B Order before i clamp them down .
Absolutely agree with you. Thanks for the feedback.
Thx
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.
Thanks for showing how to do the terminations. I wouldn't think that the colour on the white wires would cause interference 🤔
Me neither but that what the reports I read mentioned. Pretty strange.
"I need a shielded RJ45 mod for cat7!" LMAO
Where can I find those inserters for easier sorting of the wires?
I have some affiliate links in description below the video.
That was one of the worst RJ45 terminations I've ever seen 😂 would get told to do it again hahaha
I find this as good value, but I've been only been doing this this for 39 years, maybe you're experience is better? he is slow, but this is a TRAINING video. okay. he just did a wiremap and didn't actually qualify the cat 7 connection.
@@kenmckittrick7876 okay one of the worst I've seen is an exaggeration but having the sheath cut back past the RJ45 means that when you crimp the module the strain relief is on the 8 contacts rather than on the cable as a whole. Good chance of failure at a later date of someone gives it a tug.
Wired my house some 20 years ago with CAT-5E. Still works, and would be a PITA to replace with CAT-7.
Looks like my old cat5e crimper will work with cat7 connectors, (but not its built in stripper). Also my old cat5 RJ45s are no good either.
As long as it works for you.
@@MikeFaucher AT&T Uverse modem won't spit out 1G speeds from internet, in fact few home broadbands will. 10base1000 and 10000 are great for computer to computer LAN, but unless you have a fat pipe coming into your house the WWW isn't that fast.
@@scharkalvin Agreed. I did not install 10GbE for the internet but rather to my internal servers and NAS units. I use only central storage and do not store anything on local systems..
Simple cable tester used at the end of the video. It didn't test for the quality of the connection just a connectivity test. If you pay that much for this cable, you should use a better tester. Thanks!
Valid point and I am looking into some Fluke testers. Typically I use a functional data copy test but completely agree I need better test equipment. Thanks
"I need a cat7 patch cable!" LMFAO
Wouldn't you want to maintain the twist as close to the crimp as possible. That length of straight can crosstalk within the connector. Been terminating since Cat 3 days.
Yes, it should be as close as possible. I was struggling to do this under a camera. Thanks for the feedback.
Mike, what is the brand of the cable tester that you used?
If you view the full notes in the video there is a link to it. Thanks.
Okay this was funny my cat doesn't react to cat videos but once he heared hear the tester tone he went ape crap
whats the name of that small plastic which you used to guide the cables through perfectly
It is officially called a load bar and comes with the connector. See the link in the description for the ones that I used. Thanks for your question.
if you run them and straighten them out using a draping technique over your finger, no need for the load bar. Once you get them straight they'll go right in. Did tons of cable for a data center and it's the quickest and best way. practice makes perfect but load bar it when your finger's tired! hahah
darkmantis Yep but that requires more experience. Thanks for the feedback.
@@darkmantis69 This is the right way to do connectors. I ain’t wasting my day loading a bar.
@@WilliamWonka Doesn't it provide additional strain relief?
Skipped the part 8 wires are "punched down" in the RJ jack! Lots of pressure splits insulation.
Thanks for the input!
I just bought Cat 7 Flat Ethernet Cable for my Huawei 5G CPE WiFi Router. Will it be reliable for my connectivity? I see most shops are now selling it and very less of Cat 6.
I would say if you have bout it pre-terminated you should be fine. I have used some flat patch cable which has been fine. Thanks for the question.
Cat 7 is basically Cat6Ae shielded. Flat ethernet are generally not rated for gigabit and are rarely shielded.
So when using Cat7 would you have the keystone connectors grounded, or would that have to be done in the networking gear?
Some of the new panels are made to be grounded which is best, however as long as one side is and it is grounded to your networked equipment, you should be OK. You can search for cat 6a/7/8 panels and see what they look like. Great question.
My former employer (I'm retired now) would always buy the cheapest cable and connectors possible
and then blame the in the installer (me) if there were problems.
I wish I had worked for someone like you.
Thanks for the vote of confidence.
Is it true that Cat 1 was a piece of string?
I have been practicing to terminate cat8 cabling with the modular rj45 connectors like you have there and none has crimped right
If you are using cat8 look at my cat8. Different process
@@MikeFaucher I know with some Cat8 cables you can use the same kind of connectors that you are using here though instead of the modular ones. I a smaller 22awg Cable from a company called Supra that you can use connectors like these on but the connectors. As a matter of fact, the size of the wire looks smaller than the blue one you are using in this video.
@@curtflirt2 You can but the standard connectors have less shielding and some do not have any, But you are right, the wiring is all the same.
Thank you
It help a lot
👍
Awesome. Glad to hear that.
Please explain flat cabels. IS IT POSIBLE the flat cabels are as good as regular? Fake Cat6A or Fake Cat7 on Amazon in EU?
Good quality ones can be just as good but they use multi-stranded wire iso they are thinner. Mainly used for short patch cables and not in wall.
Since when we assing numbers to cats ?
Do you do that for dogs also ?
Sort of. See 2:20 Doctor Who's K9
What kind of testing device would you use to verify it can handle a 10 gbps throughout?
Fluke makes a meter that can test all the way to 40G but they are not cheap. I use actually data transfer testing as that is all I have for now.
There is no way to find that out without destroying the cable or actually run that max speed over these wires or is there?
There’s test equipment for it but it is expensive
@@MikeFaucher Ahh sad bought some cables some time ago the local dealer said it’s cat 7 but i doubt that it really is.
@@platin2148 Sorry to hear that.
No punch tool needed for the jack?
The make a tool to compress the connector but no punch too is needed for this type of connector.
My question is WHY would put an RJ45 plug on the end if a RISER cable??
This was just to show each termination. There are many different configurations Thanks for your input.