Quick Tip: Tricks To Apply Cold Blue
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- Опубликовано: 2 апр 2024
- Hey, Steve from Brownells here. Today we want to revisit cold bluing, covering some tricks and tips to make the job easier. Let’s take a look at how to deal with surface imperfections without fully disassembling or hot bluing your gun for a quick fix.
1. PREP THE SURFACE: Start with a clean surface. Use rubbing alcohol to clean off any oil or gunk.
2. USE OXPHO BLUE: We recommend Oxpho Blue. Pour a little into a separate container to avoid contaminating the solution in the bottle. Apply it to the cleaned surface.
3. APPLICATION TIPS: If you're not getting a good color, try warming the steel or using 4-0 steel wool as an applicator.
4. TRY DIFFERENT COLD BLUES: If one type of cold blue doesn’t work, try another until you find one that does.
5. BURNISH IF NECESSARY: Sometimes, burnishing and reapplying can enhance the color.
6. WIPE DOWN WITH WATER: After achieving the desired finish, wipe down with water to dilute and remove any residues of the cold blue to prevent after rust.
7. OIL IT UP: Finally, spray it down with some oil, rub it in, and you've got a decent finish.
Remember, cold bluing might not get you a factory-type finish, but with patience and multiple applications, you can get close. Practice on mild steel like a 22 barrel for the best results.
For any questions or comments, feel free to post below or give us a call on the tech line. Try these tips to keep your guns from rusting, and we’ll see you next time. 
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Hi Steve. Thank You very much for these tips on cold bluing. I’me 61 yo (almost 62), messing with guns since about 10 yo and I always learn new tricks from you and Caleb. God Bless. Happy Trails to You.
Great video. I learned something today.
The AT4 in the safe back there is fun.
Pansarskott m/86
Thanks Steve! Good tips! I remember my pop warming the parts before bluing back in the 70's. Birchwood Casey! Lol!
Ran my gunsmith business for 30 years and used Oxpho-Blue in touch up work and small parts. In my opinion, it's the best cold blue solution there is. 👍 And it kept me from having to fire up my tanks for small jobs.
one little trick I have found was to use brass wool to apply the cold blue material. it seems to help burnish the chemical into the metal better. I don't know if its real but there seems to some chemical reaction with the brass that make the blueing application seem deeper and darker than applying with a cloth or q-tip. having the metal super clean and oil free seems very important too, Thanks for the tutorial.
Will Chore Boy work or do you need something finer?
@@Paladin1873have never heard of brass wool
@@snowgorilla9789 Neither have I, which is why I inquired about using Chore Boy.
@@snowgorilla9789Comes from a brass sheep 🐑
@@snowgorilla9789knuckle dragger
Bluing salts were one of the first products sold by Bob Brownell 80 years ago.
Cold bluing just sucks, but if you have to, Brownells is hands down the best cold blue on the market. I have restored a few total junkers for friends. One was a friend's dad's 22. Had light rust everywhere and 0 bluing left. He didn't have the money to hot blue it, so I cold blued it for him. I took lots and lots of time and lots of bluing. But it looks great. He doesn't really shoot it, so it should last. Gave him a can of clp and said spray it every 6 months and give it a light wipe. That was 4 years ago.
I have been applying my cold blue with 0000 steel wool for years!! I have reblued whole guns ( shot guns & rifles) with great results. I find that the quality of steel used in the manufacture of the guns is the main factor of how good the bluing will take!! I sand blast all of my parts that I intend to refinish, using silica sand as the blasting medium.
You should always degrease the steel wool before you use it.
@@mawilkinson1957Good idea, but luckily I have never had a problem with my steel wool being greasy!!
@@chunt4694 OK. Let me be more clear. Degrease is a term to remove all oils and greasy contaminants. Steel wool is always covered with an oil when packaged to prevent it from rusting. This oil will effect the blueing solution negatively from acting upon the surface you are trying to blue.
Thaks for n excellent presentation, Stve.
Thanks, Steve & Brownells; this was timely and appreciated. I have an old single-action 6-shot JP Sauer & Sohn (Son) Chief Marshall in .44 Mag bought in 1972. It has holster wear around the muzzle where it's lived in an old shoulder holster for far too long. I'm gonna give your advice a try!
Thanks 😊
I liked the steel wool part.
I've never done it like that,so i'll try it out next time.
I've touched upp the finnish on some of my guns..
And all the small parts on one of my 1911's.
I really like the result from cold blue,quick fix.
Good tips
Thanks for this
Good stuff. I thought I was doing it correct all along but I never used steel wool which I will from now on. I am also guilty of double dipping my applicator straight into the bottle. Learned something new! Thank you
Great video. I will watch it again. Got some wear on my muzzle loaders.
I reblued my dad's old muzzle loader last year with PermaBlue. Looks almost factory new.
I'd like to blue my Colt 1911 Classic O stainless steel barrel. What would be the procedure please?
Good Video. The copper does work best for removing rust and pitting, but I found a better source purly because I did not have a pre 1982 (Copper) cent and did not want to use a copper scouring pad. I did have a spool of solid copper wire, 12 guage I believe. heated a section of the wire to remove about 1.5" of the wire coating (but the total legth is about 16" to help me stablize with my arm while rubbing (w/WD-40). Its size and the ability to use only my pointer finger just works beautifully for me keeping the luster on the steel and unrusted blue coat. Even seems to smoothout pitting to an extent. After the blue coats are added, the copper (w/WD-40) even brings up a luster making it harder to see any touch-ups.
This was done cleaning up my S&W early '69 Mod 36 J frame
I wondered a bit about that Steve did touch the decreased barrel with bare hands applying again skin fat on the barrel.
I've used Oxpho-blue on muzzleloader barrels. It will wear down after a while and grey up. The best thing to do I've found, let it set a little bit and get a rust build up on it, then it looks more like the traditional dark blue that was actually done on some guns like the Hawkens.
Thanks Steve.
Wow, I literally was wondering about this yesterday. Thanks brother
Great info
I've had good results with Birchwood Casey Perma Blue.
great vidio sir thank you
I personally have had no luck with your Oxpho Blue. Perhaps mine was contaminated, but Birchwood Casey's SUPERBLUE works marvelously!!
Where do you get that?
Thanks!
Thank you.
AT4 in the safe, PWS for crowd control!!!
I use an old heating pad to warm up the surface. Usually set on LOW for about 15 minutes, is enough to get a good reaction. Depending on the wear, between 5 - 10 applications..
Steve is like Larry Potterfields cooler younger brother.
I just refinished an old .22 rifle using the Oxpho-Blue creme version, and it looks just like new.
Good Video
I have a cold 1911 high polished stainless steel and I want to be blue. Can it be done
Thank you
I've been trying to reblue an A5 Sweet Sixteen barrel and receiver with PermaBlue (owner requested it), and it's not taking the blue very well. If it doesn't take by the end of today then I'll try another brand like what you have there.
Does this work on turning stainless steel AR barrels black?
🙂🙂
I don't drink anything but beer anymore, but I wanna sit around and drink bourbon with this guy...
After trying all the "tricks" and "tips" AND trying Oxpho Blue, 44-40, Perma Blue as well as a few others I have never had long lasting results that hold up to solvents and regular use. basically a temporarily bluing job IMO.
100%
Your technique probably needs modified.
Wear gloves.
Thoroughly degrease.
Prep surface.
Heat surface.
Apply bluing agent with degreased steel wool.
Repeat x10
Keep the piece very warm the whole time, and must have clean hands so traces of oil don't interfere.
Awesome. I just bought your cold blue kit a couple of days ago. I have a video suggestion:
If possible can you do a cleaning/disassembly series on the 1885 highwall series of rifles?
I'll have to try this brand. I bought a Winchester 30-30 from a pawn shop that some Nit-Wit went nuts on the barrel with sandpaper! I used Birchwood Casey bluing paste on it and while it certainly doesn't restore the finish it does at least look more naturally worn. Matching the scruffy look of the rest of the rifle.
Step 1: Remove any rust with copper wool, not copper coated. It its really rusted, you may need to very lightly scuff the part with 600 or 800 grit sandpaper
Step 2: Wash all parts in degreaser and scalding hot water and blow water off with air compressor
Step 3: Wear rubber gloves, oil is your enemy. I cant stress this enough.
Step 4: Wash all parts with red BrakeClean, not green. Green seems to leave a film on parts.
Step 5: Use 0000 steel wool to light burnish the metal
Step 6: Warm metal slightly with heat gun. Should be warm to touch
Step 7: Apply Oxphoblu with 0000 steel wool, cotton balls, or even Qtips in some places
Step 8: Use heat gun on low to dry Oxphoblue. Maintaining some heat in the part is key to get the bluing to soak in and set up.
Step 9: Buff lightly with 0000 steel wool
Step 10: Repeat steps 7-9 until you get the color you want, Ive gone as many as 10 applications
Step 11: Oil the part with a light machine oil and buff with a paper towel
Step 12: Profit?
It is possible to get an almost factory hot blue using this technique. Ive refinished entire rifles and shotguns doing this that people thought were beyond saving with rust, and it holds up quite well.
If the bluing doesnt stick? The part either isnt clean enough, oil is your enemy. Or it needs a little more heat.
Steves method does work, it just doesnt produce quite as nice as results. He is spot on about keeping the bottle of bluing solution clean, never dip your applicator in the bottle, always from a separate container.
I also use oil free steel wool.
@@NoWr2Run I always soak my steel wool in acetone to remove any rust preventatives, then let it dry before using it on metal surfaces.
Step 1-collect underpants
Step2-
Step 3-profit!
Here's another cold blue trick. For parts you wanted to immerse but cannot or stubborn to take bluing parts ..
. The "wrap n zap" clean your part wearing gloves and degrease the steel or use brass wool and alcohol get ALL OIL OFF IT .. next warm it slightly to where your unable to touch it without work gloves with a heat gun . Now wrap it up still hot with paper towels ..now wet the paper towels with the cold blue .. the zap. Do it outside the steam coming off bluing solution is bad stuff ..now once you can pick it up cool . wash and oil it it'll be a nice dark blue ideally
That made no sense 🤷
@@enricomandragona163 I can't understand why it doesn't. Using paper towels to hold the bluing solution in place because it's water thin you can also use cosmetic sponges. It seems to work on metal projects that bluing is stubborn to work on .. . For that piece of steel that only seems to want to go to a thin stormy greyish color despite several tries because of whatever is in the steel itself
Always degrease your steel wool before you use it.
Is that a AT4 in your locker behind you????
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No gloves or eye protection ?.
And no helmet on his bike either.