How to Turn Steel Black - All you need to know about Bluing
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2024
- In this short video I show you all you need to know about bluing at home.
I hope you like my work and the video.
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Sorry for my bad english, it's not my language. I try my best to improve my technical english.
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Everything explained clearly without any annoying background music.
I kept trying to google ahead but he answered all of my questions, plainly and clearly.
Can this be use on blueing aluminum?
Bingo! I hate music in the background.
imf calif4nia No, it can’t.
@@imfcalif4nia543 16 Seconds into the video he says bluing only works for steel.
Thank goodness. Finally someone who doesn't take 30 minutes to give you 5 minutes of information! 😊
It wasn't American. Therefore, much better.
@@derekhaydon4656 racist
@@derekhaydon4656 up yours🇺🇸
So true...
Yes. To the point, indeed.
I get so tired of FF'd thru clueless people who have not thought ahead about what to say. It is usually just so tiring to get to the meat.
You can also re-blue parts if you want. Multiple hot bluing sessions or a hot blue followed by a cold blue gives you a VERY dark blue/black color
Can you cold blue twice?
@@PolskaMos You can cold blue as many times as you wish. Hot bluing, not so much.
Now THAT was a fantastic instructional video. No BS, no silly music. Just clear, concise and unambiguous detailed information and guidance. Thank you! 👍
These other people who do all that babbling with the lame music are going to have to make adjustments lol.
I could not agree more !
If I buy a bottle of the blueing liquid I just know I'll go around blueing everything
I bought a bottle of bluing liquid (this exact brand at sporting goods in wal mart [its for for gun bluing])... and did exactly that... no regrets though...lol.
Lol. This made me chuckle because I saw myself doing the exact same thing
And THAT is the reason I don't have a BLUING SOLUTION.
The urge to blue everything is too much once you have it. 😄
"I blue myself."
@@sdcreates6176 exact same here lol
This is one of the best DIY videos I’ve ever seen on RUclips. Straight to the point, detailed, no annoying background music. Perfect. Thank you so much!
Have you seen the channel Project Farm?
If not, then strap in for some pretty thorough testing of oils, tools, and wherever you always wondered. ☺️
Yep good effort here.
1 disagreement.
Hot steel dropped in oil is called blacking not bluing.
@@vendomnu yess
How cold do I need my revolver bride I blue it?
Your English is excellent, no need to apologize because you communicate effectively. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
You can use rust bluing for large parts, very time consuming though. You allow the part to develop a surface rust in a humidity environment or apply an acid for a quick rusting. Then dip the item into boiling distilled water for 20 minutes, the Iron Oxide will be converted in Black Oxide, bluing. Then you brush the loose black oxide off, and repeat the rust, boil, brushing step until the desired finish is reached or the part no longer rusts.
This is the most durable and corrosion resistant bluing method.
The easiest method is hot corrosive salt bluing in hydrous salts. You need approximately 5lbs of Sodium Hydroxide(lye), and 2.5lbs of Potassium Nitrate(preferred), Sodium Nitrate, or Ammonium Nitrate(evolves a lot of ammonia fumes initially), for every one gallon of distilled water. You need to put the water into a large cast iron, steel, or enamel coated pot, then slowly add the lye and Nitrate salt. You will need to heat the pot on a stove outdoors, and stir to dissolve the salts, the solution will be supersaturated and need to be hot to fully dissolve. Bring the pot up to a boil at 275-285°F, add more water if it gets hotter, or more lye if it boils lower. Suspend the parts by 416 stainless steel or black iron wire, immerse then in the bath for 15-45 minutes at a rolling boil, until the desired finish is obtained. Remove the parts, quench, then wash in hot running water or boil in hot water to remove any salt residue. Soak overnight in oil. This method is how firearm manufacturers blue their guns. The bath is hot and the salts will dissolve flesh, so you need to wear and apron, gloves, and a face shield to be safe, just make sure you have a gallon of Vinegar on hand, it will quickly neutralize any small spatters of chemical. You Don't want to do this indoors, the fumes will rust exposed metal in your shop if you do. And you definitely do not want to let aluminum or copper into the bath, they will destroy the chemicals and you'll have to throw the solution out.
@specialEDy+ you think we need your know it all speech?
@@davidrichter9164 If we find the subject matter interesting enough to watch the video? Then yes. Yes we did, if not need, then _want_ his excellently laid out instructions.
I found it useful because I knew of that method but not all the hazards. Not worth the trouble.
@@stevepeterson1377 "Worth the trouble" is very relative in this sort of case. If you're doing any sort of machining or shop work past a certain level, these sorts of hazards are just expected and you should already have most of the safety equipment and the work spaces that you need. In contrast, if you're just doing a couple of smaller pieces in your kitchen or the corner of your garage, then the smaller-scale methods from the video are more appropriate for you.
Thank you, very useful info
I reused the cooking oil.
My fries tasted funny tho.
wow.
a blue joke. stay safe
Were the fries black?
@@goatface6602 don't encourage him !
You need to wash it down with a cold glass of Clorox or Lysol, added bonus it helps prevent Covid-19. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
nice to know someone in this world is on " my-wavelength." Keep- safe and witty . my friend. I from Canterbury U.K.. where are you my virtual-new-friend?
Very nice simple demo. I just want to point out some tips that would improve it.
1) Hot bluing and cold bluing are actually two different processes even though they share the name. Hot bluing is heat polymerization. Basically the hot metal turns the oil around it into a thin film of plastic-like material. It is better than cold bluing for rust resistance but easier to mess up. Cold bluing is adhering selenium dioxide compound to the metal to protect it. However the dioxide is porous like a sponge so you need to add another layer of oil to it to make it rust proof. Drying oils are the best and boiled linseed oil is the optimum in both cases for reasons I will explain in point 2.
2) Boiled linseed oil is a so-called "drying" oil. This means that it polymerizes at room temperature slowly in a few days. This is why wood treated with it is not oily or slippery. The drying can be sped up with heat, and this oil has one of the lowest. About 100C to 150C is all you need so you risk less of ruining the metal's heat treatment (temper). As for cold bluing, the oil dries out in the pores making a polymer-dioxide composite that significantly improves corrosion protection. As mentioned above, all drying oils are good but this oil is the cheapest per quantity and available in practically any hardware store.
Thanks, great explanation. Is there a difference in durability between cold and hot bluing? Which one is better for parts than get a lot of use?
@@juoj8 TLDR:
Hot bluing: Protection +++, Difficulty (to do right) ++, Time consuming +, Cost -
Cold bluing: Protection +, Difficulty +, Time consuming -, Cost +++
Cold bluing is just slightly better than cosmetic. Durability wise hot bluing is much better because it basically burns a layer of "plastic" on the metal (heat induced polymerization of oil) that is non-porous. Cold bluing is porous and the layer of selenium compound is more reactive than polymerized oil which is why it needs wiping with oil over it to complete the protection. Hot bluing is also much cheaper than cold bluing. That little bottle of bluing compound costs much more than a bottle of oil (preferably linseed oil as that has a low poly temp and is easily available) and a cheap torch.
However, hot bluing is tricky to do right. You need to heat the metal slightly above the polymerization temperature of the oil but lower than the tempering temperature of the metal. Also, hot bluing is a bit more time consuming than cold bluing.
So hot blueing is just the same process as seasoning a cast iron/carbon steel pan then.
@@victorunbea8451 The issue with boiled linseed oil is that it's three to five times the price of cheap cooking oil (at least round here), and you can't buy it just anywhere.
@@mehere8299 where I'm from it's about 2 times and you can get it at a local general hardware store. Also, it's not 2 times because it's cheaper, but because cooking oil has gotten hell'a expensive these days
I didn't know the oil quench was considered bluing. That's what I've been doing for ages. Definitely picked up some tips from this video! I had no idea cold bluing was so easy! Thanks!
It's not "hot bluing" per se.... it's polymerizing oil. It still works, but he's not using the normal "hot bath" of caustic chemical method.
The most perfect change I have ever seen in my life, repair or rather renovation.
truly beyond perfect
I am a very good technician at the age of 60, but this is an out-of-this-worldly beautiful job, congratulations friends, you are great, greetings from Turkey.
The voice reveal we never asked but the voice reveal we needed
And it's exactly how I imagined it, hahaha
My first quess was Swiss , then he held up the bottle of cooking oil , and l saw the swiss logo on the lower right corner . The Swiss have been doing it the right way ever since they kicked out the Austrians several hundred years ago . Watches , rifles ,or cheese , they're all the best .
he has narrated a few times before...
Of course he's Swiss 🇨🇭. You can see it in the Swiss perfection and attention to detail!
@@richardpalmer6196 Man, the best cheese ever made are French :D
Bluing is a passivation process in which steel is partially protected against rust, and is named after the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. True gun bluing is an electrochemical conversion coating resulting from an oxidizing chemical reaction with iron on the surface selectively forming magnetite (Fe3O4), the black oxide of iron. Black oxide provides minimal protection against corrosion, unless also treated with a water-displacing oil to reduce wetting and galvanic action. A distinction can be made between traditional bluing and some other more modern black oxide coatings, although bluing is a subset of black oxide coatings.
"Cold" bluing is generally a selenium dioxide based compound that colours steel black, or more often a very dark grey. It is a difficult product to apply evenly, offers minimal protection and is generally best used for small fast repair jobs and touch-ups. Most common people refers to this type of colour as Gun-Metal-Black.
TRUE Gun blueing has nothing to do with anything electro anything. It is simply chemicals mixed in a hot bath to the perfect temperature to chemically rust the parts black. That is all bluing is, is a chemical rust. If you leave a barrel in a hot tank too long it will start to really rust, so the proper temp. and the right amount of time is the key to good REAL hot bluing for guns. Bluing also does not protect guns from rust, the simply make it harder to see a speck if there is one. My uncle had a custom varmint rifle built with a chrome moly barrel left in the white, and he just wiped it down with an oil rag like the rest of his guns, and my cousin now has that very rifle, and its about 45 years old and has never rusted. Did you read your info from a book or google? You surely have no real experience in actual gun bluing as I do working for a gunsmith for years.
Johan Rynjah “True” gun bluing would have to be rust blue considering it preceded hot bluing by about 150 years!
pickin4you you are wrong my friend. Saying “true” gun bluing is only chemically rusting is hilarious. Rusting is an electrochemical process.....Look it up
Thanks, that's what I was expecting to hear.
Well modern gun blueing is. Originally, as in true blueing, there was no electricity involved. Guns have been blued since long before Ben Franklin and his kite.
Birchwood Casey also make a brass blackening fluid (comprising Selenium Dioxide aka Selenous Acid and Fluro-Boric Acid). We darken brass (or give it an "aged" or "bronze" patina) using this substance. As with steel, the part to be darkened needs to be very clean and grease-free. We usually dilute the blacking fluid at a ratio of 1:20 with distilled or de-ionised water, and suspend the item in a "plating tank". The reaction starts slowly, but acellerates. The advantage of suspending the item in a diluted solution slows the reaction and gives you degrees of darkening, so you can stop the reaction when a desired shade is reached. Also, the slower the reaction, the better the resilience of the finish. We remove the item from the plating tank and then wash in a separate tank of de-ionised water. Then, we clean off the "blackish dust" residue with a lint-free cloth.
We "seal" the item with a micro-crystalline wax (Renaissance Wax is best).
Birchwood Casey supply a cleaning (de-greasing) fluid as well. Also very good for proper preparation.
Birchwood Casey's products are arguably the best for these metallic darkening projects.
NOTE: Wear gloves and (if available) a face mask with a proper filter. Failing a proper mask, work in a well-ventillated area. While very little gas or odour is given off, the chemical constituents of the blackening fluid are known irritants and have a degree of toxicity.
Another know it all essay.
Micro-crystalline wax (Renaissance) - Got it❣️
Outstanding video. I’ve been doing rust bluing and cold blowing for years. Did not even know about the heat bluing with regular oil. Quick, informative, to the point with good examples. Thank you
I've never heard his voice until this video 😳😳
I was expecting (hoping?) for something Vader-esque
Me either!
Me either
He speaks!?! He also spoke English much better than I expected for someone that frequently says he does not speak it well.
Wow" A well made video for sure! I have a patience deficiency when it comes to fluff and b.s . This covered all the bases, left nothing out, no music, no bias, didn't try to sell me anything, BRAVO.
Exactly! No bullshit in this video, just information.
How could you watch that video and not have the urge to buy Birchwood Casey Super Blue for all your bluing needs?
nutcase
exactly! not some hillbilly talking about the weather or what bird just flew over!
Zemyla Cenh “as always, links are in the description below! Check out our sponsor for this video, Birchwood Casey, for all your bluing needs”. I know I stole your tag line, but it was brilliant.
This was an awesome video!! Thank you for taking the time to make it. The narrative was clear, the videography was outstanding. I am a fan for life.
I think this is the first time I have heard his voice. Clear and concise, very nice.
This was really educational ! Hope to see more like this in the future.
Sure, thank you very much.
@@mymechanicsinsights this would be great, there are no such high quality videos like this on youtube and its very interesting because I am going to learn this in my apprentice ship
Absolutely stellar!
I have been watching your main channel since the day #1 :)
Agreed. Excellent presentation!
Great video. ThankYou.
1. How can you tell when the part is between 300 to 400 degrees celsius?
2. Is it really poisonous forever?
I would love to see the difference in rust resistance between a blue'd piece and a normal bit of stock
@Ninety Four Moto so is cold more for the appearance it gives? As well as the minimal protection?
@Ninety Four Moto Hot blueing doesn't do much either! The only rust resistance offered is by whatever oil gets trapped in any surface roughness. Keep it oiled, it'll have some resistance to rust (but then so would non-blued steel)
Great question Lux. If oil is imbedded, it should help, but how much
Bluing DOES protect from rust since it forms a layer of oxyde on most of the surface, idk where you guys got the idea that it doesn't but it's a fact that it does.
People don't do it just to have black parts.
Thank you for making this video. I've been watching your work for a long time and I finally needed to do some hot blueing of my own. So glad you gave a thorough description of the preparation, process and temperatures!
I like this. It sounds like seasoning cast iron skillets.👍
Thank you for a very informative video. You took exactly the right amount of time in the video to explain bluing, you gave all the information needed, you used a human voice and you showed the difference between hot and cold bluing. Excellent video
One of my favourite RUclips channels. No nonsense, no terrible music sound-carpet and fascinating skills applied.
I love the thoroughness of your explanations and examples! It was interesting to see what blueing looks like on polished vs sanded and sandblasted parts. The reasons for choosing either the hit or cold process was also very interesting. I really enjoyed this video!
Almost as if it were scripted. Clear, concise, logical progression, very detailed without boring me to tears. Thank you.
That's almost the same as seasoning a steel pan for cooking, just as a much smaller scale (i.e. the layer is usually a lot thicker for cooking) and the oil is important for cookware (no cold bluing). It does give a significant rust protection but it's mostly used for non-stick properties.
After watching & reading this that is exactly what I came to think of when coming across preparing dinner tonight ❣️😌
It's also on the spectrum of heating a stainless steel pan and adding oil only when the pan gets very hot: the oil will create a temporary polymerized surface. As the great Martin Yan once put it: cold oil, hot pan, food won't stick. (The surface should be hot enough that when you sprinkle in a drop of water, the water immediately forms little beads that skitter across the surface rather than fizzling out.)
I won't ever blue anything in my life, but I still can't stop watching these videos
A very thorough and interesting lesson. I appreciate the quality of the in depth look that you took in making this video. Keep On Keepin On
Thank you for meticulously explaining with 6 different processes compared. Very very informative and entertaining!!!
Wow, I gotta admit this is the first diy vid that was to the point, and didn't take forever to get to it. Excellent!
Thank you! I've seen some guides on bluing before, but this is by far the best one, and also in depth on different results and preparations. Thank you!
This firmly goes into the category of things I did not even know I needed to know.
My eyes see the sand blasted cold bluing as just spectacular !! Great video !!
Very clear, very complete and concise. Thank you for solving the problem I have been struggling with for weeks
Informative! I love how systematic you were with testing the two methods. Very well filmed and well explained too. Thanks!
Thank you for the concise info and lack of click-bait, this is what I miss about RUclips. Great work!
Thank you very much. Very informative, clear, and concise.
I wish I could apprentice with this guy for at least a year, to try to learn at least half of what you know.
So much knowledge you have sir, thank you for sharing it.
Thank you for just being clear and to the point. It's so refreshing.
After I do the first treatment of cold blue I use steel wool on the whole part and give it another treatment of bluing solution for a darker and more uniform finish
Here in the Rust Belt, steel only comes in one color and it reminds me of autumn.
I now live in Central Florida, and am quite familiar with this autumn color, hence my best friend is a wire wheel on the bench grinder. Then all I have to do is wash the crap out of my t-shirt, because I once again have forgotten to don my shop apron. LOL.
doah
Brush it off with a steel brush, apply some oil. Keep doing that a couple of decades and the iron will be blued. Blueing is nothing more than a nice even coat of Iron II Oxide, instead of the red/orange Iron III Oxide we all know and hate.
@@JCGver couple of decades enough you reckon?
@@JCGver and your wirebrush is also gonna proceed to blue everything else a little that it comes in contact with. ours does that. but to be fair that things also been in use since propably worldwar 2. i know the son ofthe guy that last maintained the aparatus and that son himself is 82 years old
Thank you for the video. Very informative and simple instructions. I have a couple projects that need bluing and now feel confident about completing them. Love the videos keep up the outstanding work.
I always wondered about this! So many steps of restoration are mentally satisfying, including the bluing process.
Marvelous. All the bluing questions I've had since I started watching this channel you just answered.
Thank you. You've answered most of my questions about hot and cold bluing. Time well-spent.
Straight to the point. Excellent. Bravo!!!
Great job,no 30 minutes of talking bs,straight info to the point. I built my first 1911 .45ACP a few years ago from a raw cast frame and did a hot Parkerize on it,came out pretty well but not perfect,good enough for who it's for
This is how a video should be done. Informative, precise, short and well filmed. I'm a subscriber.
Perfect video. No nonsense, covered everything I would have wanted to know, great illustrations.
I subscribed! 😎
I am hooked on the sandblasted look! Thanks for the video, well done!!
You've answered so many questions I had from watching your videos and similar channels. Thank you.
Thanks when I was very young I watched my uncle do both but because of time, I have forgotten about this. So thank you for bringing my memory back 😊
I have never thought about, nor wanted to do bluing for anything, bit I'm so glad you made this video. It was super interesting.
I been watching your videos , the work you do is amazing, always fixing the minimum detail. I am dentist, and I really love what you do, very precise and so beautiful results, every work is a realization of dream!! Because only in dreams we can think achieve that kind of piece of art when we think in restoration.... Thank you very much for your master classes in every step. Greetings from Mexico !
What an amazing video! Love both channels!
There's also rust bluing. Lower temperatures (
You are right and wrong! The actual industrial method is alkaline degreaser bath(prep),rinse, HCl bath to activate the metal( that's optional), rinse, salt bath at 143°C, rinse, then dump it in water displacing oil aaaand there you have it
MidwayUSA had a good video on it, so much work compared to cold blue for a lazy person like me
@@theshop90 You are describing hot salts bluing. Rust bluing, also known as slow rust bluing is done at room temperature except for the boiling of the rusted steel in distilled water. It's a very different and much more complicated process than hot bluing.
I wish every “how to” video was made by you. Amazing Video.
Super interesting video. In cooking YT videos there are plenty of tutorials on "seasoning" cast iron and carbon steel pans. The seasoning is nothing more than the hot bluing mention here. So this changes my perspective on the best way to "season" or "hot blue" a pan using your method. I just bought a new one and will give it a hot bluing treatment and see what happens
The sandblasted pieces looked sweet as hell to be fair, and that's the process I'd use if I planned on utilising this technique. Great video man very informative.
Wow. This is cool!!! I want to get into knife making, and I never realized bluing was this straightforward! Thanks for the video!
Awesome video! I was thinking about trying this on some stuff just the other day. Got a few woodworking tools I'd like to blue for visual effect. I wish I could just send you money so would could do this full time. Your videos are the best anywhere on RUclips. A collaboration video between you and Hand Tool Rescue would be epic. Your English was excellent and your accent only makes the video cooler.
Simple & uncluttered video. Thank you.
Great video! Thank you. I agree with the other comments about lack of music! Big relief!
This is a great video, no nonsense and straight to the point!! Would love to see you do more of these behind the scenes videos 👍 how durable is the bluing for both types?
Only the cold example was bluing. The ‘hot’ method is a blackened burnt oil coating.
I was like “yeah, I’m always gonna go hot” literally right before you said why not to go hot for somethings. Glad I kept watching
Thank you SO MUCH for making this video. I have searched for so long for a new solution to a unique problem I have and this ..IS IT! Thanks cap’n ! Great work !
Awesome explained....i just gone back in past at my science class and remembered my teacher, great men.👍
In the firearms sense, "hot blue" is normally associated with a molten salt process. What you're doing with the oil is normally called oil "blackening" vs "blueing" to distinguish the two processes (and the oil finish tends to look brown-black vs blue-black which is pretty clear in your video).. Another less common method that involves mild heating is "rust blue" where parts are placed in a heated, moisture-rich atmosphere to deliberately cause a coating of very fine rust to form. This is time consuming and normally only done these days for antique firearms restoration..
ty
I have done the rust blueing and its not easy, but it does work pretty good.
yes, this is calle "black oxide to be more exact" -- and many RUclips videos give WAY BETTER advice on it, including not DAMAGING the grain-structure of the metal, as his instructions will, and getting a darker finish with less 'coats'/repeated blackenings needed -- and processes that DO work on stainless.
Bluing in general is just heat, no oil. The most famous example people are used to would be exhaust tips.
I regularly do hot salts bluing and occasionally do slow rust bluing particularly in the rare tin soldered double that might come across the bench. The ways presented here are nothing but expedient alternatives to the true long lasting methods used by gunsmiths, etc. B&C cold bluing is good for touch ups and for the screw or small part that doesn't warrant lighting up the hot blue vats or going though the tedious and lengthy process of slow rust bluing.
sand blasted looked the best, i need to buy myself a sandblaster
is my favourite too
@@mymechanicsinsights
Question:
Wonder if this application could be applied to an Intake on an Automobile ... Most engines run at 200° degrees or slightly higher in some cases
I need this paint please deliver me
My sandblaster has been one of the most cherished tools in my metal finishing arsenal since buying it... If you do anything applying finishes to metal, or even just leaving it in its "raw state", a sand blaster is definitely a "must have" tool in my book.
I’ve setup several of the harbor freight cheap sand blasters and also some more expensive industrial ones. All have clogged and caused problems. We had one at work I think it had a vibration motor in it to keep from caking up. That one worked amazing never had one problem with it. Used glass beads in all of them.
Thankyou for sharing your experience and knowledge on the topic of Bluing of metal.
Great explanation of the process for blueing metal.
I like how the sandblasted piece looked more than the others!
Used engine oil, frequently black in colour, provides a much darker colour than clean cooking oil.
That's true! Due to the carbon content,used engine oil gives a better protection to rusting and lasts longer too.
Part of this "hot blueing" advantage is to open surface "pores", grooves and other tiny voids (finished steel shouldn't have "pores").
I wonder if a used motor oil containing moly would somehow take a little better? I think a major factor in blueing's mechanical and corrosion protection is it's ability to retain oil (providing a barrier and adding lubricity.
@@RobertLBarnard as far as my experience goes, blued steel without oil goes rusty very quickly. The blue holds the tiniest amount of oil in place on the metal (in the "pores"?) and stops the rust by keeping the water away.
I think by "pores" you're thinking of the "grains". They are all different sizes and evenness depending on the type and manufactur of the steel. (like hot rolled or cold rolled steel have very obviously different grain structures, same for cast or formed parts. )
Excellent technical presentation. Thank you sir. Dave
Great video! Quick, Clear, Complete and to the point....... And yes I had wanted to know for quite awhile but was too lazy to look it up. Thank you!
As always awesome information and video, thank you!!! Also I echo other comments, amazing to see someone make a video without needing to make an hour long video out of a 6 min subject! 🙂
Tool and Die maker here: I use the hot oven temp blueing on my parts because of the lack of chemicals involved. I just don't like handling chemicals. Also, this is not limited to black with the oven temp, you can get different colors based on the type of material and temperature and cooling process. Sometimes I'll go blue, gold, black, etc.
You should do a utube video on your techniques also.
Agreed ^
Tell me more.
Would also like to know how to get gold 👌
So the golding technique, along with the other colors, is a reaction of the steel to the high temperature of the oven. For example, I use the tempering oven to color my parts at 1,000 degrees for 5-10 minutes. This amount of time will not effect your hardness. High heat your part and temper normally, then polish it like you normally would, just get the scale off. Throw it back in the oven for 10 minutes and quench it in oil and let it sit until cool. If you want more color, try again. It is harder with larger parts because the part has to come up to temperature equally for an even finish. These larget objects may take a few cycles. The gold was from a piece of very thin stainless sheet metal at 1,000 degrees. Thank you guys for your interest, I want to start a youtube channel soon.
This technique takes a lot of feel and varies with almost every piece. So be prepared to have some fun experimenting with it. Your surface finish, hardness, type of steel, size, and heat will effect every outcome; which IS NOT bad, because it gives you uniqueness and creativity. Try 500° for a blue and purple look. If your shop has a poster on the wall of annealing temp colors- that is your guide.
Thanks all!
Excellent. Concise, precise and without a host of crap!
Worked in a machine shop in the 80s. We used to oil polish our steel rods. I still have some of those rods and not a speck of rust! Not easy...but one of the best rust prevention methods.
Large parts can be heated in a kitchen oven to the achieve the required temperature. The size of quenching bucket becomes the limit to size. Parts should have a consistent thickness to avoid warpage. Some phosphate-based "rust converters" can be used also, but actually need an even layer of red oxide to form first.
Great video’s, compliments about that! I learn a lot every time and love the fact that there’s no annoying music! 👍🏻.
My questions:
* which blueing is more resistant against wear and rust? Did you try that out or can you test that?
* I would like to see the machines and favorite materials/chemicals/programs you use, I would certainly appreciate a workshop tour video! 😉
keep up the good work !
Thanks! This is so informative! MY roommate rusted my cast-iron teapot and this was suggested. I need to hot blue it, and this video pretty much just confirmed what I thought I needed to do! Thanks a ton.
A most excellent explanation and comparison of the 2 methods. 👍👍👍
Oh my god he's got a voice. :-x
I was not prepared for this. I think I need a minute ^^
virtualxip same here lol
This is the best video, thank you my man, I’m restoring my dads old shotgun and this helped loads.
Well, did you finish?
@@vendomnu I did finish! unfortunately part of the bluing is almost impossible to keep from rusting, not sure what went wrong there but its just on the barrel. worst case scenario i will buy a new barrel.
I use cold blueing on tempered steel, like you said about hardened steel. Knife blades and firearm components are pretty much the only ones I do.
I enjoyed this video. Thanks for posting.
Clear and easy to understand. Excellent instruction video!
When I do hot blueing I use a dedicated oven in my garage. It allows me to control the temperature better. Also allows me to do parts that I could not do with a torch as they would be to large and not have an even temp over the entire part. 😬
Hot caustic salt is beyond most but the largest gunsmithing shops, due to investment in materials and setup(But it's the best for large batches)
a somewhat easier method of durable blueing is called express rust, you will need a bottle of express rust bluing liquid(in US:Brownells has it) and a tank of boiling water
1. degrease part
2. put part in boiling water (be sure you wire it up so you can pull it back out)
3.prep liquid, i like to just put some in a small glass jar and get a cheap foam brush
4.wait 5-10 minutes depending on how much metal needs heating
5.pull part out of water, pause for a few seconds for water to run off, brush compund onto hot steel (you have 30-60 seconds for this)
6.put back into tank for (depending on size of part) 2-5 minutes
7. repeat 5-6 until happy with coverage.
8. completely submerge part in boiling water for min 10 minutes
OR slow rust,
1.degrease you parts
2. hang in a humidifier cabinet
3. wait x days for surface rust(time will need to be experimented on)
4. boil part in water for 20+minutes
Gunsmiths who use Cold blue go to Gunsmith Hell
Source: am Gunsmith
In case nobody has mentioned it. It's called bluing because when you hot cut steel it turns blue (blue chips). which led to people finding a way to do that to full pieces instead of just the off-cuts. great video.
No. Bluing is a chemical process done to the surface of steel, not a state of change to the base metal displaying a color - which merely indicates the temperature it was raised to.
First time hearing you talk! I like the sanded and sandblasted hot bluing the best. Hmmm. I want to try this on some old golf wedges I have but really don't have the tools to heat them up. Maybe I'll give it a go though. Actually looking for your recipe for removing patina from steel, so rewatching a lot of your videos and they're just sooooooo relaxing and therapeutic as always. Thanks!
Hrs of knowledge in a simple explanation!
Kudos, very well explained with a lovely Swiss accent.
This is something very interesting and useful which I learned today. Also, these processes are surprisingly simple. By the way, would you suggest any other oil if I want to do hot blueing on an industrial scale?
Everything you talk about or do is so interesting! I'm sad that I've seen all of your videos. I want to watch for the 1st time again and again!
Nice to hear your voice. I somehow missed this video, but it's not too late.
Oh, and you are the first hit on youtube when searching for bluing.
Another fantastic informative video. I love what you are doing. It is something of a family event when you post a new video. We all sit around the pc and watch. thank you for providing us with quality family time.
When cold bluing , I heat the part with boiling water , then dry it , before applying the Birchwood Casey liquid . It works for me .
So you apply it while the part is still warm?
Simple short and Clear, really good video
Great video with thorough explanations. Thanks for sharing!