How to Cold Blue a Rifle Barrel - woodworkweb
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- Опубликовано: 22 июл 2014
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Bluing of steel is done to help prevent rusting of the steel. Hot bluing, in my experience is best, but it's somewhat complicated and can be a bit expensive to have done. One alternative is to cold blue your rifle barrel and in recent years these products have been vastly improved. In this video we re-blue a rifle barrel and some very good results.
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Great job. I've done only a couple of these re bluing projects and maybe I can offer a suggestion. Use strokes the whole length of the barrel ( unless the mfg recommends it but I've never heard of it done that way) will make the bluing very uniform with less streaks ( although your barrel came out great). Also , I would take care not to put those metal rods in the bore. I use wooden dowels , they seem to not cause any damage to rifling or the chamber. Great vid and thanks again.
i know it is an old video, but when you blue a barrel don't rub the bluing solution the way you are doing it on one spot and circular motion, you should apply it in one continuous stroke from end to the other then rotate and repeat... until full coverage is done, this way you have a uniform coverage with no runs and blotchiness..
We complete the rifle refinishing job by cold bluing the rifle barrel in this video
Just completed your method amazing results ! Thank you so much 💯
No nonsense demonstration, subscribed 🙂
Awesome video ! Going to use this method soon Thanks .
Thanks for the video! I have a savage 120a that I’m refinishing this weekend
A brilliant project from start to finish Colin. I have an old 32 Cal Winchester that could use a face lift from decades of deer hunting so this video project will help me in the process. Something else to add to my bucket list, Thank you Colin.
Derek
Thanks Derek, I have been wanting to do this for some time and was very happy with the way the whole thing turned out .... nice when it's even better than you hoped.
Looks great!
Que gran trabajo!! Exelente! Maravilloso! Un gran saludo desde Mar del Plata, Argentina!
I reblued a .22 I bought, it had previously had the original bluing stripped by someone and looked pretty bad. I used super blue, and took my time doing probably 5 or more treatments and in the end it came out really nice. The little carbine was a mid 60's winchester lever gun sold my sears in the 60's, and to this day is a fun little shooter. I've reblued a couple other rifles and have had them come out pretty well, it's a lot of work though and I'd have preferred having the parts hot blued, but don't know anyone doing it.
Best thing is prep and taking your time, and using 0000 steel wool to polish after each coat.
I am no expert by any means but I have found cold bluing is a little easier if you make sure the metal is consistently warm. Just warm to the touch, not hot. Great job Colin. Both videos were excellent!
Yes, I just tried Hot and the agent dried up before it had a chance to react 🤣
I use hot water to rinse the barrel and then add the bluing . Work fast let sit for a few minutes . Rinse again and use fine steel wool to buff slightly . Rinse again and repeat till you get the deep rich finish . 3 or four times usually does it . Wipe the water off after rinsing .
For a deeper blue/black finish, warm up the barrel with heat gun before applying liquid blue. Use LONG smooth strokes from one end of barrel to other applying very thin coat. Do NOT rub it in like a stain and do not rub in circles. Then use 000 steel wool, re heat, and re apply liquid blue. Do this 4-5 times. The difference will be night and day
Seems reasonable. How much heat? and how to heat?
@@arri1254 Just enough heat to WARM up the barrel. Not hot to the touch
Rubbing = blotchiness, yes? I’m planning on de-rusting and re-blueing an improperly stored hunting rifle
Do you clean off before it back up. What do I just use house hold soap or just warm water
@@johnfiore9390 rinse with cool water
Thanks for the video. It's refreshing to see you dab into firearms a little bit. I wonder if you could make a video on how to make a locking gun cabinet?
Evapo rust does an excellent job of taking the old bluing off.
Hello
Salut from France
Great stuff
Great series Colin, the gun looks nice.
Thanks Carl, it's nice when all things seem to come together :-)
I'm glad I watched this, I bought a bottle of cold bluing several years ago and hadn't used it yet, but I removed the cold cerakote that I tried on my mosin nagant barrel, several years ago and it worked at first, but after drying it started to flake off, so now I'm goin to do a cold bluing. There are very little directions on the bottle, so I'm going to use your instructions as my guide. Thanks again for a great video.
Lol I have a bottle of blueing sat unopened in my shed for a air rifle refurbish that I'd meant to do a couple of years ago . I've just got the old gun out and have started work on it thanks to this video 🙂
Ha. I'm sanding and prepping to reblue my 1937 7.62×54r.
@@harryhitt4233 Yeah, mine is a 1942 and I also have a 1938, the 1942 I cut about an inch and a half off the barrel, threaded and put a muzzle break on it, so now it's a 26.5" barrel, the other one I cut it down to 24" but I have to take some off the outer diameter of the barrel, before I'll be able to thread it, I have a castle break for that one. I have Archangel stocks for both and Timney triggers. 😎
Getting ready to do a mid seventies Ruger .44 Carbine. I customized it. Yeah, I know. Unless stolen somehow, it’s going to my son who loves it. He loves the thumb relief I sanded in and the Ruger medallions I added to the stock. The custom butt pad, muzzle break and hand guard on the barrel are awesome. Finished with a hand rubbed, multiple coat oil finish. Topped off with a Sig- Sauer red dot. It’s my absolute favorite gun !!! Bar none.
I’d probably put the bluing agent in a bowl, then you can dip the sponge in and not spill a lot of it. Other than that it looks great, I’ll definitely look into this product for rebluing an old webley air rifle I have.
I used the same brand (Outters) cold blue on a shotgun barrel recently. Experimented on some scrap metal first. Preparation is key, spend a lot of time prepping, removing all of the old blue and degreasing. I was quite surprised how well it worked actually. It's not going to be as durable a finish as a hot blue, but for what it is, it works quite well and I was impressed with the results. But if you dont prep the metal properly, you're not going to have good results.
Absolutely I couldn't have said it better myself I know this comment was four years ago and I hope you have gotten better at what you do you sound like you're on your way to doing a great job if I can give you a little hint on how to get to bluing to stick it is "Shocking" how many people don't do this
Great knowledge in the comments.
thanks awesome vid and tips
What steel wool were you using to remove the previous blue? I'm guessing 000?
Thank you, 1st time I have seen that done,very nice. Would you happen to know of a shop that does stock work such as taking a composite stock and making a wood one for it? Best regards Tom
I literally just finished cleaning the exact same .22 a few days ago. My dad had it since he was a kid.
Same, I saw the barrel and I was like “that’s grandads gun”
Do not go in circles straight line start from one end to the other. Long easy strokes end to end no back and forth or circles. Cold water rinse reapply.
Thank you sir for a wonderful, informative video. I am about to start this 2-part process on my 1974, Ruger 10/22. i feel a lot more confident now!
+Bruce Baxter Thanks Bruce ... that is a lovey classic piece ... you should do well with it
Perfect
I have the same caliber 22 single-load rifles, but it is very accurate I also have to do re-bluing. it is very shiny now. Thanks
It would have been great if you could have shown how you rinsed the barrel. Or 100 percent of what you did because I need to reblue a pistol and I'd love to do it right. Please show every step. 🙏 👍🇺🇸
That's a great little series. My dad taught me to shoot 40 years ago with a full sized crank pellet gun. He passed away this year and as I was cleaning out his shed I found it way back in a corner up in the rafters. I was really pleased to find it again, I thought it was long gone. I think I'll give it a try and see if I can't bring her back to life. Thank you for the inspiration.
Great idea, it sounds like the one you have is also a family heirloom, nice to have these ... great memories, thanks for the comment :)
What brand cold blueing did you use?
Can I use this technique on the other areas of the gun?
How long do you wait to put gun oil on the new cold bluing on the barrel
What did you do with the bolt?
It looks like Outers doesn't sell the bluing kit any longer. I can't find any reference to it on their website or anyplace that still has it for sale. Bummer...
Very cool video.
what is the brand of the product
Will this work on aluminum frame Beretta 92fs?
sounds like the halo series theme song lol as the intro... nice and great video
Where can I find this kit and what is the specific name of it?
please send in message what is the name of cold bluing agent pack.I couldnt follow your speach.there are 2 tubes in the pack.Please name those.
Nice job sir!! I'm an amateur gunsmith and ive done only wood restorations up until now.im in the process of restoring a friends old winchester single shot break barel shotgun and the firing mechanism had a lot of water damage.it was rusted to a point where I was sure it couldn't be saved.well I managed to save it.my question to you is how do I refinish the steel on the action without re bluing it.id like to make it really shinny but not like chrome just a soft finish and then I'd like to seal the steel finish so it no longer rusts.i should I go about it.thank you and keep up the good work.i love your chanel.
Marc.
marc durocher Hi Marc, thanks for the note buddy ... I cannot claim to be an expert on restoring rifles, but when it comes to the working mechanisms you will want to make sure you don't take off too much metal or it cam make the action too sloppy. I think I would start off with some 1000 grit sandpaper with a light oil oil to keep try to keep the sandpaper clear and see how that does. If you think it needs more you could drop down to 800 or even 600 grit but I think you will need to test it along the way to see what results you are getting. Hard to judge this over the internet as there are many different metals in use and all give different results. Let me know how you make out ...
Colin
There is one trick that might help. If you take a 5 gallon plastic pale, and then roll up some thin gauge metal to the same circumference of the pall and put it inside as a liner. Then fill the pale with half vinaigrette half distilled water. Han the action in the middle of the pail with wire to a piece of wood that sits on top of the pale. Then run a car charger with the positive on the wire and the negative on the thin gauge metal. Leave it for a day and it will eat that rust away without losing any material. But I just realized you wrote this a year ago and probably have long been done.lol and if u do try this, ever, not sure if I got the positive negative right. But this really works. My nephew the engineer taught my this. And then after 000 steel wool and some oil to polish it up. 😬 Take care
preheat with a hair dryer before bluing and degrease and 0000 steel wool between coats.
Interesting video for a woodworking channel. I just occurred to me, however, that I could use this technique in some of my art/design projects.
Yes, you could do that, and there are woodworking tools that are "blued" to help protect them from rusting, not as popular now, but still in use in many parts of the world.
This is the best video I've watched. So many of the other guys yack forever before actually demonstrating.
Thank You!
How long does it last?
Where do you buy the product?
I was recently given a J. Steven Arms Company, Springfield Model 15... the previous owner was a man in his 90s who passed. I want to redo this rifle in his honor... I'm not sure of the date but it's not serialized and the end of the butt is all wood.
I'm currently refinishing the stock and I wanted to reblue the metal.
Thanks for the video.
Will this work for a ak bcg
Is that a cooey 75?
Love
thx for sharing good joob
wood and guns i like it
Thanks for watching!
What is its durable life of blueing
If you lay the barrel across a hot electric stove and get it slightly warmer than warm but where you can still touch it, it will suck up that bluing and get an amazing result.
Best bluing is rust bluing, thats how they done vintage rifles and pistols before the advent of hot bluing which came about in the 1930s. Cold bluing leaves a horrible after smell and is the least durable of hot and rust bluing.
Looks like typical splotchy cold blue. I just did a barrel today, some areas looking great others not so much.
Cold bluing will never look right on a whole gun (and all cold bluing smells pretty bad). It only works out well for touching up the occasional spot or scratch. If you have a whole gun just take the time and slow rust blue it - it'll turn out much better. If I didn't have time to rust blue it I'd just take some spray on finish like Brownells Alumahyde and use that before I'd cold blue.
I need to fill in a few spots on my barrel, what would be best. I tried to hide them with a marker pen but it looks awful.
Van's Instant Gun Blue worked for me. Degrease, heat with a hair dryer, and apply with a tooth brush until you have a match.
Thanks.im not to good at posting pictures and even less videos but I think the boys on here would appreciate seeing what I did with the gun.it was so bad and im very proud of what I done with it...so video coming soon.thanks for the tips.
marc durocher Looking forward ... thanks Marc
marc durocher 3 years and still waiting on that video you said was coming soon. Lol
Very splochey light and dark spots there but better than the rust you had 👍
Could disassemble it then video, cuts to the quick
what number steel wool
I have access to a sandblaster and some really goodgood medium to use on the metal that other gunsmith use to strip weapons down with to apply cerakote beforehand. I was curious if sandblasting with a light medium would be a better option to start the project with?
nooooooooooooo
'sweat' the barrel with a heat source, a propane 'heat buddy' works well. this is after de-grease washing. you will see a film develop and fade as the heat reaches around 120 deg F. then wipe with a 100% cotton clean cloth. this completely eliminates any possible smears due to contaminates.
My father engraved his initials in the barrel of the model 11 20 gauge shot gun is there anyway to fix this and get it back to normal ?
You may want to just to leave his initials in the barrel.. He wont be here forever and it would be a treasure to you later!
@@halongbob you never answered my question ! He also engraved his social security number, again can these be removed ?
Is the gun a .22 lr or .22 magnum?
Looks like some sort of Cooey rifle, they're chambered in .22 long rifle, .22 long, and .22 short all in one!
I just got a wire wheel and and drill and then fine sand paper. I went 10 sec over on the blue "cook" time and put gobs on for an all black look
I did 7 coats of blue on my savage99f and it came out beautiful. That was with birchwoodcasey superblue. I did 1 coat of blue on a 22lr and it came out as dark as 7 layers of the other brand. Outers is a really good brand. I tried another coat but it didnt get any darker. I left it at that and wow the 22lr looks like it just came from the factory.
Did not show 2 us the name of the compound.
What gauge steel wool did you start with?
I beleave steel wool has a light coating of oil on it. To me I think it hinders the blueing process
Gosh. Good job.. only thing I would say is you used enough blue for a dozen or more barrels
Is that a marlin 65
I thought it was against the law to own a firearm in Canada.
Good job! As with anything precision, you must be patient and go step by step just as you did. I like it.
Hi Steve ... lol yeah I hear you about owning a firearm in Canada, but that is a whole other conversation we could have :) Yes, I am seeing, especially with the bluing, prep is everything. Great to hear from ...
Colin
Lol 2021 checking in.
It actually, unironically is now.
You can own guns in Canada, but at least one has to be a Cooey
All good suggestions below but I have one more. Final step, I wipe it down with an oily rag, Then lightly use a clean rag for final wipe down.
Thanks for the tip Roy!
good quality make up remover pads work better, use this bluing liquid on my breda brescia 12 bore barrel worked great
Thanks for the tip Svern.
'muricaaa! Nice work though, i'm glad i subscribed
Thanks for commenting ... great to have you with us
? Did not oil the barrel after the final bluing coat
Good lesson...
I would suggest to turn around that barrel on the stand, (trigger on your left) and hold it with your left hand on the trigger, so you can do the job, without having to cross hands while rubbing it... (elementary Watson)
That would make this video much more easy to watch... for a handy person...
Thanks
You dont need to brush with steel wool IF and only IF you surface preparation is impeccable. Meaning double washing with hot soapy water, and then using a very pure white spirit while wearing gloves that are also cleaned with hot soapy water and then with very pure white spirit. Make sure you use a non lint cloth with good adsorption qualities and just run down the barrel few times from one side to other, make sure to do this QUICKLY, finishing whole barrel in less than 60 seconds, preferably 30 seconds. Then immediately take a watery rag and run down the barrel, then again with soapy rag, again with water, then with spirits. Now you can either apply another layer of bluing or be done with it and oil the barrel.
Also no amount of bluing will turn high chromium barrel into something that has black color. It will be slightly gray, even when oiled. Cold blue looks crappy when not oiled anyway, and it doesnt offer much protection, so it will still be oiled all the time.
I get great results using muriatic acid 0000 degreased steel wool. Alternating the muriatic acid and cold bluing. Neutralizing the acid with water and baking soda. Using the steel wool as an applicator. I've cold blued 100s of carbon steen knives with this method. You get a nice even bluing. Do practice pieces first.
You can see why industrial style furniture makers love to use gun bluing on exposed steel parts.
time to rince out a BINGO DABBER
I normally do 7 coats but that's the color I prefer.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Black nickle is consistent and very hard and durable
What I can say is birch wood Casey doesn't work well with die cast or stainless brownells oxpho blue works on practically everything
Permanent blue works great but takes SEVERAL coats due to fading and if u don't clean the excess and oil it it will cause surface rust
That bluing looks "blotchy" and inconsistent. Is it the lighting, the camera, me, or a mixture of it all?
Xboxf iend Wow my man. That was the finest detailed informative explanation I’ve ever read. I can’t believe you don’t have a thousand thumbs up on your kind guidance and commentary. I appreciate it kind sir. You helped educate a beginner at bluing. Best to you, yours and all. Sincerely, Deano
Blotchy!
Bluing looks blotchy to me also. I did my Marlin Glenfield , a 55 year old 22, and it turned out better than that, Used Birchwood Casey Super Blue. Great stuff . Used 400 sandpaper. and warmed the barrel. Kept doing multiple coats until I got the look I wanted.Wiped it down with a damp rag when I finished to stop the bluing process.Looks like a new gun !
@@robertboreman7672 How did you heat the barrel, and to what approximate temperature? I was considering using the oven, but that only goes as low as 170 deg. F which I think is too warm. Then I brainstormed the idea of using hot tap water which is about 35 degrees cooler than the oven. What do you suggest that I use for a heat source. Thanks.
I just blued an old 30 year old shotgun 410 Sears n Roebuck made by savage using Burchwood Casey Super blue I did it cold blueing n it came out a lot better than this one on video, sorry buts it blotchy n you can see blue runny stains on it ,,, what a messy job
COLD BLUE NEVER HOLDS UP WITH USE! LOOKS GREAT IF ALL YOU ARE GOING TO DO IS SET SOME PLACE & JUST LOOK BUT DON'T TOUCH! COLD BLUE IS A WASTE OF TIME & MONEY!
It's not too difficult to get a decent job, the problem is it won't last. Gun cleaning, oil and solvents will have the finish off in a matter of weeks.
I’ve never had any cold blue last
Actually if your happy with it then it's all good. All that matters. I myself wouldn't use a sponge.
No offence but when cold blueing you should really put cork or something in the barrel and chamber. All it takes is a drop of that stuff on the rifling that doesn't get completely washed off and that 22 won't be able to hit a gopher at 20 feet. Just some friendly criticism. That was the first thing I was told when I refinished my first rifle. Great job though, looks sharp.👍🏼
I use the foam ear plugs to protect the bores and a blow dryer to warm the barrel steel to accept the cold blue more uniformly and a bit deeper. Also, bronze wool instead of steel wool to burnish and polish the barrel.
Looks blotchy on video. Wonder if more costs applied with steel wool instead of a sponge would help?
That bluing makes me sad
0:40 , you're welcome.
Poo poo?
No emphasis on warming the barrel, superfine steel wool is 0000, no name given for the bluing agent, the dabbing application leads to splotchiness, long runs neeeded to avoid the patchy look... this is not a good video.
perhaps put the bluing in a small tin would saves the waste!.
3:51 queue ASMR