Quick Tip: Mastering Cold Blues with Brownells
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Join Steve and Caleb from Brownells in this informative video as they delve into the world of cold blues for firearm maintenance. This video is perfect for gun enthusiasts and professionals looking to understand the nuances of using cold blues for their firearms.
What You'll Learn:
Choosing the Right Cold Blue: Discover which cold blue might be the best for your needs. Surprisingly, the answer might be to use a combination of them.
Understanding Metal Reactions: Learn how different metals react uniquely to cold blues, and why it's essential to know this for effective application.
Live Demonstration: Watch a hands-on demonstration on a barrel to see the actual effects of different cold blues.
Cold Blues Featured:
Oxpho Blue: Known for its durability, it's a go-to choice for many gunsmiths.
44/40: Tends to go on darker, offering a more black finish, but it's not as durable as Oxpho Blue.
Dicropan T-4: An in-between option that provides a dark finish.
Importance of Oil: Understand why it's crucial to apply oil after using cold blue to neutralize it.
Dealing with Cast Receivers: Get insights on using cold blues on cast receivers, like those in old H&R break-open firearms.
Using Steel Wool: Learn a neat trick using 0000 steel wool for a smooth finish.
Steve and Caleb encourage viewers to share their own tips and tricks for applying cold blue in the comments section, fostering a community of shared knowledge.
This video is not just about cold blues but also about enhancing your firearm maintenance skills. Whether you're a seasoned gunsmith or a hobbyist, this guide provides essential knowledge for your firearm care routine.
Share your experiences and tips in the comments, and don't forget to like, comment, and subscribe for more insightful content from Brownells.
Thank you for watching, and stay tuned for more practical firearm maintenance solutions!
Be sure to check us out on social media!
Facebook - / brownellsinc
Instagram - / brownellsinc
For Special Deals and Offers: X - / brownellsinc
For the products shown in this video and many more, head over to the Brownells webpage. The policies of this media platform prevents us from posting links directly to the website.
I never use from the bottle. Pour some out and dip in that. Do not return to bottle. Keeps it from becoming contaminated.
Great advice
Amoebas!!! 🦠
They said not to double dip
I've had good luck poking a small hole in the foil and using it as a squeeze bottle. There's no chance of contamination.
They said that. You must've not been paying attention.
Steve's Expression to don't drink this, priceless. He's probably thinking in the 60s the car manuals told you how to readjust the valves. New car manuals tell you not to drink the battery water.
Steel wool has preservative oil in it, so be sure to clean the wool in acetone before using it for burnishing the metal.
You two make a perfect team. Thanks for another great video!
Once I'm satisfied with the finish, I clean the surface well to remove any remaining chemical, and seal with Renaissance Wax.
Thanks for the video!
I used Oxpho to reblue a Beretta 92F that I had removed spotty rust with Boeshield Rust Free (which strips blue from ten feet away.) Allowing the barrel to warm on my 3d printer bed to 50 C (122 F) produced a much darker blue/black. Buff with 4/0, then rinse in distilled water and coat with used motor oil before normal cleaning after a few days seems to set the new finish.
"But yeah dont drink this" - Caleb
"Fair enough" - Steve"
😂
Did this earlier today, used the torch, degreased steel wool, and cold blue... Looked amazing when I was done working on an old Ruger New Vaquero.
Great video as always from the Dynamic Duo!!
Great tips to know thanks guys.
In the late 1980s I found out that you can blued a AMT stainless steel 10/22 Bull Barrel. Had to put it in HOT water before it took. Few coats later darkend it up real nice. But only Brownells cool blue formula worked.
Somebody needs to make a whole series with these two guys. At first, it was kind of funny, but then the dry “Careful it’s childproof” followed by a nonchalant sip of coffee made me laugh so hard that I spit my own coffee.
Good tips. Thanks! I always use heat.
For bigger parts, 44/40 creme is my go to
Thank you for this video. Very helpful.
Small parts sanded with 800 grit (maybe even a Dremel stripping pad disk if there's heavy rust), degreased with acetone, heated with a heat gun (hot air, never a torch), then dropped in a small bowl of cold blue (Van's is my favorite). Use tweezers to slosh them around a bit, they can soak for a couple of minutes. Tweezers to get the parts out, completely dry them off and rub off any excess with a cloth rag. Warm them up again to make sure they're dry then drop them in a small bowl of 30 weight motor oil for about 5 minutes or more. When you get them out of the oil wipe off the excess then use a good gun oil to remove all remaining 30 weight.
Sounds complicated but it's a lot easier and faster than trying to slow rust blue all the small parts and controls of a refinishing project.
I like the videos better when you two are in it.
This was good info for the "DIY".. self trained smith. It just needs to be pointed out.. COLD BLUE IS A TOUCH UP PRODUCT NOT A REPLACEMENT OR SUBSTITUTE FOR ACTUAL BLUING...I.E. HOT SALT BLUING OR BELGIUM BLUING OR BROWNING... so please don't blue the whole firearm as a bluing job using these products. Glad you showed using heat.. torch or heat gun really helps and provides a better result.
Years ago I got an old 8mm Mauser with bad surface rust on the barrel. So I stripped the action and barrel and cold blued it using multiple coats and rubbing it with fine steel wool between coats. It turned out very dark and nice
Birchwood Casey used to make those blue touchup pens which worked excellent for sights and other touchups. They seem to only make the paint pens now which aren't as nice.
Yep, I was looking for one the other day to do the back/top of a 1911 hammer and all I found was black.
I always liked the bluish tint of the Oxpho-blue.
I wish I could still get hold of it.
I used the oxpho blue on a Romanian AK parts kit to match the Childers receiver and trial and error of steel wool and heating with a few coats came out amazing! Appreciate the products and video gentlemen 👏🏻
Thanks for the knowledge!!
The cold bluing contains salts and require a water base rinse/clean after application; followed by a oil cleaning and protective layer. I treated the part like a black powder firearm after shooting…
Excellent video, guys!
Does it make any difference if you let the blueing set on the part for a while? Does it 'soak in' and penetrate or does it do what it s going to do immediately?
Great tips and the actual live demonstration is much appreciated.
Read the label on the back of that denatured alcohol. It may have petroleum distillates in it. That equates to oil. I prefer 99% isopropyl alcohol it's actually cleaner I think but ain't a chemist so I couldn't swear to it.
My Dicropan gel turned a bright pink color in the bottle after opening. It was never contaminated and still works. I called Brownells to ask but representative knew nothing about it.
Great Video Thank's 💯💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
GREAT video and super helpful! After 40 years of using cold blue I learned a lot. Only thing I might add is that acetone/fingernail polish remover is a super fast and effective degreaser.
We need more Steve. Caleb is OK, but Steve is like an Uncle Daddy-grandpa, he has a lot of experience and is reserved. We just trust him! Caleb is like the smart cousin from the weird Uncle. He's aight....just a little different.
I use an oven for larger parts that'll be entirely cold blued like a Win M12 receiver. Put oven at 200 degrees wait 30-60 minutes; Take part out and liberally apply Oxpho until the color is even.
The oven is after the normal cleaning/degreasing. It opens the metal and takes Oxpho like a duck to water. Great stuff.
The only outright refusal to take any Brownells cold blues is the front handguard clamp of a Swiss K31. Occasionally a stamped/sheet metal part puts up a fight but not very often.
Just as a side comment, you should wear protective gloves when dealing with chemicals such as those used in bluing.
You really don't want your skin to come into contact with substances like that.
And always work in a well ventilated area.
Love this series!
Excellent, well done video, gentlemen. Thank you!!!
You should degrease your steel wool, it comes with oil on it from the factory
we dont use fingers in MS, we use toes
Nice
There is a website for europe but cant find any Oxpho blue (or other variant) on it. does it just not show or is it not available?
Which brand of spray oil were you using? I have an old Colt 38 special, and an old Ruger 357 that have holster rub marks. Which one of the Cold Blue types would you suggest using?
Appears to be Rem Oil [Remington] in the green spray can.
You know he's from Louisiana. He said, "Lewsiana"!
So oil works vs washing off with water?
P.S
Nothing better than some coffee with CLP residue.
Lol 14 min video and not even 1 close up shot of the finished product. I guess it at least looks good from 5 ft away.
Not sure just how close you were looking for, they did show the end product from an appropriate distance for most. 🤷♂️
Would you blue a slide.... Or what finish would you use for a pistol slide... nitride, etc, what does the factory use?
👍
This may be an odd question. If I want to blue a 1911 raw stainless barrel, can I clean the barrel and just soak it in 41/40? Unless it would affect riflings/accuracy…
Birchwood Casey cold blue smells like egg farts. Do they all stink like that?
Yes
My egg farts smell better honestly
@@bulldaggerwatkins190 I know right?!
I was told to use Amonia afterwards to neutralize it then dry it out and oil it is this overkill?
I cold blued a handgun and smaller parts but it seems cold blueing will give off an ammonia smell forever. Anyone else?
For fifty years.
It smells because you didnt get it all off and its eating away at the metal.
@@DarkShark-xj4fd thank you, I'll look into it but it's been about 10 years and the metal is the same as when the original finish was on it
My tip is more of a do not do: if you use steel wool, please do not use SOS pads, while they are a type of steel wool they have soap in them that will destroy the bluing.
Does this really offer any protection from rust? I understand you still have to oil the metal, but how useful is it as a protectant?
Better than raw steel, not as good as hot bluing.
So would this be for only touch ups or would you fully cold blue a whole pistol receiver? Also was that a stainless steel barrel?
Touch ups only, and no, that was not stainless steel.
So then, Not Soda Water to neutralize the residue. Just water?
Why blue something? Other than aesthetics?
To prevent oxidation. (Rust)
And some "bluing" can be brown.
$16.99 for shipping a little bottle of cold blue. Total ripoff. I will only be buying from MIDWAY from now on.
Just disappointing!