Cold Bluing Solutions Test: Super Blue, Oxpho-Blue, Formula 44/40, Oxpho-Blue Crème, Aluminum Black
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- Опубликовано: 26 фев 2023
- Cold Bluing Solutions test: Birchwood Casey Super Blue, Brownells Oxpho-Blue, Brownells Formula 44/40, Brownells Oxpho-Blue crème formula, Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. Brownells bluing vs Birchwood casey Super Blue. Super Blue vs Brownells 44/40. Brownells Oxpho Blue crème formula vs Brownells Oxpho Blue. How to use Super Blue bluing solution? How to use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black? How to use Brownells 44/40? How to use Brownells Oxpho-Blue crème formula? How to use Brownells Oxpho-Blue? Oxpho-blue liquid vs crème. Oxpho blue touch up. Super blue cold bluing. Brownells cold bluing. Comparison test of cold bluing solutions. Birchwood casey super blue instructions. Birchwood casey super blue on aluminum. Birchwood casey super blue on stainless steel. Aluminum anodizing at home.
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There are lots of tips and tricks on how to achieve the best results with cold bluing solutions. What I did is I just simply applied three coats of each solution to see the color, consistency, and speed of the chemical reaction. I used steel wool not only for buffing but also to determine which bluing solution had the strongest finish. Based on my tests, the Brownells Oxpho-Blue cream and Birchwood Casey Super Blue gave me the best results. For touch-ups, I would definitely recommend using Super Blue, and for bluing large areas, I would choose Oxpho-Blue Cream.
Thank you for doing this comparison. In many videos on YT it seems like Super Blue is the preferred brand for cold bluing
Thanks for watching! Super Blue gives nice matte black color. Super Blue works perfectly for touch ups and small parts bluing. Oxpho-Blue Creme provides more uniform finish but looks dark glossy green.
Excellent! My same results too that I found. Including AlumaBlack by Birchwood Casey. Thank you for your vid to topic.
Glad it was helpful!
I have tried all these "bluing" products over the years, and they all suck. None of them last any time at all if you handle the part. What does work well is Van's Instant Gun Blue. I reblued an old revolver barrel and cylinder with it some years ago and it still looks good today. The secret is to heat the part up some. I left the parts in the Arizona sun for a couple hours and it worked great.
Just bought some. Hopefully it doesn't suck. 😄
@@Ntmoffi does it?
Oxpho-Blue and Dicropan last much longer than Super Blue, and they don't smell as bad either. Cold blue will eventually wear off or turn brown, and Super Blue doesn't last very long at all in my experience. The result will also vary a lot with the steel quality, so I use Dicropan on harder parts and Oxpho-Blue on the rest. If you apply several coats, you may see that cold bluing solution can actually wash off the previous coat and make it look uneven. To prevent this, you apply the subsequent coats with an applicator that's just slightly dampened, rather than soaked in solution. And 44/40 does act quickly, but "after rusts" like crazy. If you don't wash the parts thoroughly, they will turn brown overnight. I actually use 44/40 to "antique" new parts to blend in on older guns, a little bit of that rust makes them look just right. But that's about all 44/40 is good for IMO.
Thank you for the comment!
Couldn't agree more. B.C. Super Blue doesn't last nearly as long as Brownells Oxpho-blue. The cream gives a gun a more blued finish while the liquid gives a blacker finish. The only product I can recommend from Birchwood Casey is their Barricade rust preventer. For cold blueing Oxpho-blue is the clear choice by guys who know what they are doing
@@KTPGNS1 will Oxpho-blue work on aluminum?
@@Jack-nighthawk No.
Thank you @@___meph___4547
Do the bluing solutions work on the aluminum? I have the Brownells Oxpho Blue and it works great. I'm not trying to match a finish, just get a black coating on some aluminum parts. Awesome video!
I have never tried steel solutions on aluminum. I always use dedicated solutions for aluminum surfaces. Just give it a try on some piece of aluminum that you don't need.
No. It's a chemical reaction that occurs and will only work on steel.
No, BUT bichwood made a solution for aluminum specifically
I have been using birchwood alu black for airsoft at lot.
Most airsoft metals are either aluminum or Zamak, which has like 4-5% aluminum and 95% Zinc. It works great on Zamak too (Zinc doesn't stop the reaction of birchwood alu black, if anything it's a bit slower due to the lower % of alu, and the end result is black with brown reflects and not blue ones).
Just rub it with steel wool before appying it, alu makes a protective coat with air :)
out of the 5 which me held up and looked the best? would u say the super blue or casey’s aluminum black
Aluminum black is only for aluminum surfaces. For steel I'd choose Super Blue or Brownells Oxpho-Blue cream.
I have to recolor parts, nicks, and modified bits constantly. The Oxpho-Blue cream is a godsend when you are trying to endlessly touch up places you file or mill. It stays right where you put it and doesn't run all the heck over onto places you don't want it, or drip onto other surfaces you REALLY don't want it on... etc. Is it a perfect finish compared to hot bluing? Heck no. But it works well enough to call it good on everything except show pieces. If it's a part that's in hard service, it's ideal because touching it up later is just as easy. Dab on a little more and rub with a Q-tip. You don't even need to waste time meticulously degreasing.
What I did is I actually saw the birchwood and casey touch up pen and decided to buy my own empty refillable marker from amazon which I filled with Oxpho blue. Now with this marker I can touch up any nicks with precision
I... really like the idea of the refillable marker. Thanks!@@mrexpendable1232
Can you use these products on already coloured/anodized metals?
Sure! Bluing solution can be used to touch up and fix worn-off finish, as well as to remove some scratches on painted, anodized or blued surfaces.
The aluminum black, sure.
I believe that the instructions for the liquid bluing solutions recommend rinsing the surface with water within 1 minute of application, after which it recommends drying and oiling the surface. I wonder if your leaving the solution on the surface resulted in the uneven reaction. Regardless, thank you for the demonstration.
Yes, you're right. After applying several layers, you have to rinse the surface to wash those chemicals from the metal surface. I always do that, but in this demonstration video, I didn't because it wasn't necessary. It wouldn't make a big difference. I use Birchwood Casey Super Blue and Brownell's Oxpho Blue, and from my point of view and what folks say in comments, it's the best stuff on the market.
Try different barrel steel types the results depend on how much carbon steel/iron content.
Where to order this product?
I always buy that stuff on Amazon, the links in the video description. But looks like most of it temporary out of stock and you have to constantly check those links, because once it appears it gets sold very fast.
i like 'vans" best
Is the super blue liquid can be apply to stainless steel surface??
It's not gonna work for stainless steel.
Hi, how are you? Thanks for your video, but i was wondering if you know a technique or a solution for inox steel. Regards
It's possible by using some aggressive chemicals with hot bluing process.
No, you can not treat MOST S.S., because of the high chromium content, it is pretty inert. There are exceptions with certain S.S. alloys, but in general, no. There is a reason (especially 304 & 316 S.S. are frequently used in the chemical industry. 🥸
How buy this super blue?
I've provided the links in the description, but those items are sold out. You'll need to add them to your shopping list and continuously monitor their availability. Once they're back in stock, you can purchase them.
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Lots of different stainless steels are attracted to magnets.
And...?
Super Blue's final result is much better if you work fast. Apply 30-60s, don't let it dry on the surface, and immediately rinse with water. Burnish with steel wool to even out between coats.
Thank you for the advice!