The COMPLETE Guide to Building an LS Engine!! - 383" LS1 Build | Part 3 | Bare Block to Long Block
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
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HOW TO VIDEO LINKS:
How to Gap Piston Rings - • How to Gap Piston Ring...
How to Check PTV Clearance - • How to Check PTV Clear...
How to Measure Bearing Clearance - • Measuring Bearing Clea...
How to Measure Pushrod Length - • How to Measure LS Engi...
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Brother, it doesn't matter what you do. Someone is gonna run their trap about something. You can't please all of the people all of the time. You can only please some of the people some of the time. Good video !!!
It’s usually individuals who don’t have ANY content at all that are the most critical. People who are busy don’t have time for that kind of negativity.
@prevost8686 That is true lol.
Maybe I didn't catch it, but it is smart to degree a camshaft even on milder stuff when you decide to use aftermarket rotating assemblies. Banking on the crank or cam company for that matter to never be off is kinda dumb and you can be giving up some. Stock, yeah straight up, dot to dot, and any other way you want to say it.
Point being, people are dumb and take RUclips videos to be gospel. There is a right/wrong way to build an engine so if you are portraying as so do it. And RUclips content amount does not dictate knowledge, that's just dumb.
@Dirtydave67 There too much Parotting on RUclips!!! I didn't degree mine. Ls3 swap. BTR Stage 2 V2. But I am also not trying to squeeze every ounce of HPs out of my engine. A little more than stock is ok for me. It's going in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. It's a project with my grandkids. It came with 239 HPs so anything over that is great.
@@GrandPitoVic what it sounds like you did (correct me if I'm wrong) you cleaned up a stock engine and slid a btr shelf cam in. Yes, it's not really going to matter. Like I said, stock stuff it's not going to make a worthwhile difference. Aftermarket, best believe it, not just for power but also to make sure alignment is correct. With everything being made in China I don't feel like relying on Wong to always get the crank keyway right on
Brother, I’m glad that the boss allows his employees to wear shorts and light clothing in his machine shop. It doesn’t get much hotter than a Texas summer!
Masterclass in engine building, took me awhile to get through it but I learned a lot (like adjustable pushrods are a thing?!)
@That Engine Guy Hey Jacob, Try using the EZ pushrod length checkers at summit racing. So much faster for getting push rod lengths. They have various models to accommodate most engines. It will save you so much time.
Woah Jacob! What a treat! Very enjoyable video to watch from an old subscriber. From the tips and tricks, to the excellent camera angles and pro tips. Bravo. I'm going to say 575 HP/550 TQ. 😊
Great, big thanks for making these videos.
Fantastic tips ,thanks for making these videos!
In regards to your previous feeler gauge technique for installing the LS Oil Pump, ever since I saw you do it THAT way rather than using an alignment plug or the like, I really do like that technique, especially for big dollar stuff. Perhaps Melling are using a Billet Gear setup rather than Stock GM's Powder Metal Forged Gears, giving Melling more confidence in their product ? I am still having Nissan RB26DETT (Skyline GTR) Flashbacks/Nightmares from shattered powder metal forged oil pump gears (crankshaft driven like GM) and the 'upgrade' to billet gears in case you hit the rev limiter too many times and wanted to avoid catastrophic failure...... I enjoy the LS World MUCH more (as does my wallet).
Wow she soo smart I used to struggle with that washer.
Spinning the crank, from my little experience is that it can move the bearing a little. All I can think of is maybe they don't want you to then hit the bearing, that could be sticking up ever so slightly because it moved, when you put the carriers on.
As always I love your video
That's a really good in depth video..do them all just like that..good stuff
❤ Most Needed Video of the Year Goes To....🎉
Main bolts outer stud torque is 51 degrees. OEM rod bolts can be re-used. they can only be re-torqued Max 3 times, according to AERA.
600+ at the crank no problems, maybe somewhere between 610-620hp.
First 👍's up engine Guy thank you for sharing 🤗
What we don't want to hear is usually our failure!!!!
Did you run bee halve or double spring
With the ls engine is there any specific orientation of ring gaps?
I noticed I haven’t seen a vid of a 408 stroker LS on your channel before. Maybe I could take you the block and the parts for the short block to be assembled. What price would I be looking at👀
May I ask what this current build cost in todays prices ???
How much is that ls1 383 stroller rotating assembly and the cam?
5/16 is 0.002461" smaller than 8mm, yet it still strips?
Hey don’t the main caps have to torqued in a sequence starting from the center to left to right back left to right or it don’t really matter as long as they torqued right
I got a TBSS engine started making noise the other day 193k on it can you recommend any good engine rebuilders in texas dfw area?
with no accessories and electric water pump on an engine dyno i would say 615-620
Question- I'm building a very similar build but with a 8/71 roots blower, what the limitations on a rollmaster single timing gear setup?
Exhaust pushrods are usually shorter than intake pushrods because exhaust valves are usually longer than intake valves.
What ptw clearance did you run
550hp range at the flywheel
What year is that block
567 hp 615 t at the wheels baby
550
Pardon me….”personal ls7” let’s see that lol
578HP
566TQ
582 HP
580hp
591 HP.
600 flywheel hp
630 hp
im guessing 550 +
588HP
Garcia Patricia Williams Mark Miller Donna
675
Can I volunteer my LS1 for a 383 upgrade?
Lol I have 1 got 230 thousand miles I'm looking at doing exactly this to push the ft lbs up in my truck
620hp 550 tq my guess
506h
565
First
580hp