@golenengineservice What does the 3/4 turn on the rocker bolt do? I understand on a traditional SBC this is how you set lifter preload, but on an LS, pushrod length determines preload and the rocker arm is set. Not trying to be a jerk, just to understand, thanks!
I purchased the ARP bolts you spoke of and got some of the grease on the washer as you warned and I broke off a bolt in block! I had to disassemble the engine and I took it to about 7or 8 different shops and none of them had the kit to remove the bolt out of the block. The kit was around $800 US and I live in Canada, too much money. I contacted ARP and After speaking with one of their people I was given a New set of stronger bolts.. ARP came through in the end for me!!! If it was a brand new block I would have bought the kit to remove it. It was a 200km engine! Great video! Thank You!!!!
Great video and thanks for the lifter bucket hole tip. I'm putting together a 5.7 currently. And glad to see I'm not the only one still using speed wrenches!
I bought the whole rotating assembly offline and turn my 6 L 2001 Chevy suburban 3/4 ton into a 408 powered vehicle in the transmission never works so well
Awesome!!! I actually learned some stuff!
Happy to hear it. Make sure you subscribe, we are going to have more informative videos coming out.
Exactly what we need, more LS videos
Hope it helps build a killer engine!!!
Excellent video. I'm building a LM7. Gotta watch that part on the 3/4 to 1 full turn on the rods again
Great educational video. Thank you!
Great video. Thanks AG
Great video, thanks for sharing the great info!
@golenengineservice What does the 3/4 turn on the rocker bolt do? I understand on a traditional SBC this is how you set lifter preload, but on an LS, pushrod length determines preload and the rocker arm is set.
Not trying to be a jerk, just to understand, thanks!
I need to fix my Daewoo Lanos 🎉
I purchased the ARP bolts you spoke of and got some of the grease on the washer as you warned and I broke off a bolt in block! I had to disassemble the engine and I took it to about 7or 8 different shops and none of them had the kit to remove the bolt out of the block. The kit was around $800 US and I live in Canada, too much money.
I contacted ARP and After speaking with one of their people I was given a New set of stronger bolts.. ARP came through in the end for me!!!
If it was a brand new block I would have bought the kit to remove it. It was a 200km engine!
Great video! Thank You!!!!
Hate when issues like that happen. We are glad ARP helped you out.
Do you drill the 3/8” holes all the way through the lifter bucket, or just on one side?
Only on the bottom side
@@adamgolen2153 thank you for the reply. This will be a very helpful tip for my future project.
Great video and thanks for the lifter bucket hole tip. I'm putting together a 5.7 currently. And glad to see I'm not the only one still using speed wrenches!
@@jimlathrop8603speed handle forever. Make sure you buy new buckets when you build your project. The ls3 buckets will fit your engine.
@@johnstarkey5366glad we could help. Make sure you subscribe as we will be releasing more videos.
Also my 258 AMC 😢
I bought the whole rotating assembly offline and turn my 6 L 2001 Chevy suburban 3/4 ton into a 408 powered vehicle in the transmission never works so well
That hole you used to oil prime the engine with air can i use that for a Turbo drain?
That hole that he pushed oil in is actually pressurized. You would want a fitting on the timing cover or oil pan for a drain back.
No.
@@arturozarate1752 What about the plug in the back drivers side?
@@mr.c5217 NO! If it's plugged it's under pressure.
The timing cover is where you'll return your oil.
@@arturozarate1752 On the Dart website it says "oil in" on the driver rear of the block.
5:35 Oof bit rough
Bolts backing out is always rough
This is a great video if you have an ls. I prefer the Coyote. Be well, my friends.
The coyote is a great engine, too many cams for our liking
Permatex High Strength Removable Threadlocker Orange Gel is better than Red Loctite. 👍👍👍