I purchased the ARP bolts you spoke of and got some of the grease on the washer as you warned and I broke off a bolt in block! I had to disassemble the engine and I took it to about 7or 8 different shops and none of them had the kit to remove the bolt out of the block. The kit was around $800 US and I live in Canada, too much money. I contacted ARP and After speaking with one of their people I was given a New set of stronger bolts.. ARP came through in the end for me!!! If it was a brand new block I would have bought the kit to remove it. It was a 200km engine! Great video! Thank You!!!!
@golenengineservice What does the 3/4 turn on the rocker bolt do? I understand on a traditional SBC this is how you set lifter preload, but on an LS, pushrod length determines preload and the rocker arm is set. Not trying to be a jerk, just to understand, thanks!
Ls standard rockers are not adjustable like the old stuff. The only way to adjust ls rockers without a rocker with a screw is to change the pushrod. So he is measuring the preload of the rocker by the thread pitch of the bolt. The 3/4 from zero lash equals the preload on the lifter desired. ls rocker always sit flat to the head unlike older stuff that has a locking nut and can change the rocker hight
Great video and thanks for the lifter bucket hole tip. I'm putting together a 5.7 currently. And glad to see I'm not the only one still using speed wrenches!
I bought the whole rotating assembly offline and turn my 6 L 2001 Chevy suburban 3/4 ton into a 408 powered vehicle in the transmission never works so well
Awesome!!! I actually learned some stuff!
Happy to hear it. Make sure you subscribe, we are going to have more informative videos coming out.
When I torque something I set it 3-5 lbs short and then spec as the final check.
what a wonderful relic you have from your grandfather. I have a few from mine as well. he was a machinist too. we are lucky
Great video. Thanks AG
Exactly what we need, more LS videos
Hope it helps build a killer engine!!!
Great educational video. Thank you!
Excellent video. I'm building a LM7. Gotta watch that part on the 3/4 to 1 full turn on the rods again
I purchased the ARP bolts you spoke of and got some of the grease on the washer as you warned and I broke off a bolt in block! I had to disassemble the engine and I took it to about 7or 8 different shops and none of them had the kit to remove the bolt out of the block. The kit was around $800 US and I live in Canada, too much money.
I contacted ARP and After speaking with one of their people I was given a New set of stronger bolts.. ARP came through in the end for me!!!
If it was a brand new block I would have bought the kit to remove it. It was a 200km engine!
Great video! Thank You!!!!
Hate when issues like that happen. We are glad ARP helped you out.
@golenengineservice What does the 3/4 turn on the rocker bolt do? I understand on a traditional SBC this is how you set lifter preload, but on an LS, pushrod length determines preload and the rocker arm is set.
Not trying to be a jerk, just to understand, thanks!
Ls standard rockers are not adjustable like the old stuff. The only way to adjust ls rockers without a rocker with a screw is to change the pushrod. So he is measuring the preload of the rocker by the thread pitch of the bolt. The 3/4 from zero lash equals the preload on the lifter desired. ls rocker always sit flat to the head unlike older stuff that has a locking nut and can change the rocker hight
Excellent video, thank you!
Fine demo.
I am curious on your traceability protocols if you have any.
Do your builders credit their work?
Very good video 👍👍👍👍😄
Great video, thanks for sharing the great info!
why did you use the 10296 vs the 10295
What is the best 408 or 416 kit for a 2005 LS 5.3 build
I need to fix my Daewoo Lanos 🎉
Hmm, I’ve never put sealant on the intake manifold bolts. 28:01
Do you drill the 3/8” holes all the way through the lifter bucket, or just on one side?
Only on the bottom side
@@adamgolen2153 thank you for the reply. This will be a very helpful tip for my future project.
Great video and thanks for the lifter bucket hole tip. I'm putting together a 5.7 currently. And glad to see I'm not the only one still using speed wrenches!
@@jimlathrop8603speed handle forever. Make sure you buy new buckets when you build your project. The ls3 buckets will fit your engine.
@@johnstarkey5366glad we could help. Make sure you subscribe as we will be releasing more videos.
That hole you used to oil prime the engine with air can i use that for a Turbo drain?
That hole that he pushed oil in is actually pressurized. You would want a fitting on the timing cover or oil pan for a drain back.
No.
@@arturozarate1752 What about the plug in the back drivers side?
@@mr.c5217 NO! If it's plugged it's under pressure.
The timing cover is where you'll return your oil.
@@arturozarate1752 On the Dart website it says "oil in" on the driver rear of the block.
I bought the whole rotating assembly offline and turn my 6 L 2001 Chevy suburban 3/4 ton into a 408 powered vehicle in the transmission never works so well
Do the pump side of the pickup tube first or you will suck air from the oring.
Also my 258 AMC 😢
This is a great video if you have an ls. I prefer the Coyote. Be well, my friends.
The coyote is a great engine, too many cams for our liking
5:35 Oof bit rough
Bolts backing out is always rough
Permatex High Strength Removable Threadlocker Orange Gel is better than Red Loctite. 👍👍👍