700HP Stroker LS - How To Build Bottom End
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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www.hoonigan.com/ On today's episode of Garage Garage, Brad goes over in detail on how to assemble the bottom end of an LS1 engine. Follow along as he explains the block, crank shaft and piston assembly.
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DT#300
I don't know why but watching an engine being built is so relaxing!
King Whispa fr tho
same
an engine being built*
Quaziii oops lemme correct it xD
Until you receive the bill
When Hoonigan goes more in depth than Hotrod magazine you know it's a good show. Felt like I was back in the 90s watching the speed channel 👌
GARAGE GARAGE, lovely series thank you for this. Every build is super informative I love learning about building no matter the make/model, class etc... Amazing thank you
Big Daddy Brad nailed it, this is basically heart surgery for a fire breathing dragon. This was such an excellent video, I would like to thank Brad for sharing all the knowledge involved in each step. The only way to truly learn this stuff is through experience, and all the details he shared are priceless. Marking your bolts, Following the instructions, Double Click Double Check etc etc all those things are not taught in books, you learn them in the shop from your buddy or working with your father. This was such a great video and I hope we get to spend more time with Brad like this, he has a lot to offer.
aSinisterKiid agreed
Do you have a parts for what you used.
My dad and I actually just finished our first engine build together and dropped it into the car yesterday, so hearing Brad talk about learning from his dad and showing off his own expertise is super cool.
Good video. Step by step with the little (hidden insider information) which comes only from years of experience. Most technicians over look these important details. Glad to hear someone share his knowledge with the backyard mechanics that would want to take their build to the pro level.
Hat tip!
I could have watched 40 min vid of that
Hopefully they upload a non time lapse version of the building on the bonus channel
Id watch a 30 hour vid of garage garage. Every week.
first name PEWN dude, my old man has some pretty good engine building tips on my channel, check it out, you may like it. Thanks!
35 years from now someone’s gonna take that engine apart and wonder “what kind of piston brand is “Hoonigan”??”
Negative, someone will shortly be picking those pistons up off the pavement and saying, "I found the problem! It had some Chinese-eBay garbage Hoonigan pistons!"
35 years from now I bet gasoline engines will hardly exist.
In 35 years, there ABSOFUCKINLOOTELY will still be American Muscle with fuel burning engines cruising the streets.
@@N2Otorious Amen!
@@calebbitz4147 gasoline engines going the way of the buffalo by then? Possible. Internal combustion motors not existing in 35 years? Not a chance.
I felt like I just finished 2 years of university in 18 minutes.
ninezerofive 😂😂
Come on now, your don't learn nearly this much in college!
I did all this in my engines II class at community college. Even machined valves.
welcome to the Matrix...
ninezerofive Yeah but you should never dubble click it.
I wish this video had 50+ minutes.
Absolutely incredible.
Watching an engine being built is so exciting I just wanna see the end of it
I keep wanting to go back to the beginning xD love it
This is 1 of the Best examples of how to make the Greatest engine build RUclips Videos! Absolutely Great Job Sir. Wish I worked with this Guy !
When setting ring gap I like to put the oiler ring on a piston and press the ring in with the piston, same depth every time plus evenly pressed to that debth. Tech tip of the day plus saves a little time.
Will it work with domed pistons?
ALWAYS CHECK CLEARANCE WITH THE STUDS/BOLTS YOU ARE GOING TO USE. Should have checked clearance with the ARP hardware that you would end up using. Trust me, it can change it by about half a thou in some cases. Also plastigauge should be used only as confirmation of your bore gauge and micrometer readings. I would not recommend assembling an engine with plastigauge alone. And 2 thou on the mains would not be a problem at all, especially for a high performance engine that's gonna see the strip. 1 thou per inch of journal clearance is the standard, if you want to run more oil clearance and a thicker oil, add half a thou. You have to adapt your oil clearance to your demands and oil weight, I'm sure the service manual wants it tight but they are also not expecting you to make 700 horsepower.
That’s a lofty goal wanting to run the greatest beard in hot rodding. Mike was disappointed that the latest Hemi in Blasphemi was ONLY making 1100 ish...
After blowing up and rebuilding probably upwards of 100k worth of hemi boat anchors I would be too
First video I've ever seen where they speak about plastic gauge. That part is very very important.
Guy blew it. When changing from bolts to studs on the mains the clamping force is different and needs to be reline bored using the studs.
I literally just learned this the hard way (I honestly had no idea). Say goodbye to your main bearings. Fax.
You're 10000% correct
1000000000% correct
Yes he should have used the studs and check bearing clearance then hone to size because the bore is not round after changing the studs.
You are absolutely Correct, what ever parts you R gonna use for the built, you take them with your block to the Machinist for bob weights and all the machine work.
Especially if its a Performance Built.
YESSSS SO HAPPY YOU GUYS WENT INTO DEPTH ON HOW TO BUILD AN ENGINE
Engine assembly is like asmr for car people
We love you BRRRAAAAAAAAAP Daddy! You make a fellow mechanic proud in the worksmanship that goes into building a engine the proper way!
Jon vs Finnegan?
It’s gonna be the Battle of the Bearded Bel-air Bros
dat Alliteration tho
Is the beard part of the entry requirement? :)
Nice work at demystifying the bottom end of the engine for a lot of folks.
Brad seemed super comfortable in his native habitat
Best instructional ls build video I’ve ever watched, this man knows his shit
And here we have Brad Daddy blessing us with his sketchiness! #LONGLIVEBADDADDYBRADY
Braddy did a few things that aren't quite kosher, but it's cool to see that he really is very experienced and knowledgeable, I'd love to see more of the hoonigan crew getting technical.
Couple of things. firstly, if you knew you were going to be using arp studs the machine shop should have line honed the mains. It's been proven that arp studs with their much higher clamping force warp the caps slightly more and twist the block differently thus changing the main journal clearances. Secondly, you should have also checked the main journal clearances using the arp studs not the factory bolts. For the same reason the clearances will be different between the factory bolts and the arp studs.
Should never 'double-click' a torque wrench either....
Was going to comment the same thing. Totally pointless to check clearance with factory main cap bolts.
Was waiting to see if someone else noticed this lol
was surprised to see plasti-gauge too but maybe they didnt have a set of dial bore indicators? also, never seen a ring set that way, but i guess it work.
Dial bore Gages are so cheap, unsure why they don't have one for their shop.
I never heard you say “garage garage” in the funny way Brad and Hert started! I rely on that for comedic relief!!
When your plasi-gauge for bearing clearance and it says bearing clearance .001" according to your book .001" is too tight [.0015" to .0025"] book says, also If you have a micrometer and a snap gauge you Don't Need Plasi-gauge to tell you the bearing clearance. So let's say the crankshaft measures proper size and the main bearing bore diameter measures proper size, where would you say the problem is when the plasi-gauge says .0005" to .0010" ?
A. crankshaft is bent
B. Bearing to thick
C. Crankshaft bearing diameter
to large needs polished
D. WITHOUT MICROMETER
DON'T KNOW DIFFERENCE
E. Bearing cap too tight
If you guessed D. your right
If you choose D. then you know the difference and probably
Don't use plasi-gauge or J&B Weld either.
That is one of the differences between a machinist and a mechanic.
A good machinist would check the line bore of the block after cleaning before boring it out.
A good machinist would check the line bore with a quality straight edge. By laying zig zag ( .0005" thickness gauge) paper on each bearing bore surface, then place straight edge across all bearing bores and if any of the papers slide freely the align bore is off or your straight edge isn't straight.
Also a good reason the plasi-gauge measures .0005" to .001" is the oil you put on the back side of the bearing.
There is a reason machinist build motors and mechanics install them, and machinist are taught by a master machinist and now days measurements in nano-inches.
.0000001" or one millionth an inch.
.0005" = 1/2 thousandth
.001" = 1 thousandth
Exactly brother. I have done my apprenticeship as an automotive machinist/engine reconditioner in Melbourne Australia and I can tell you firsthand that an engine to be properly machines, even the bores, I'd make a chart with the temperature before and after torque honing a cylinder, so my bores are perfect, I'd walk away and work with it on a day with similar weather temperature, even if it's 3 days later on. But when I measured the bores, can't get any better than that. There's an extent to where people would go to build a high performance engine, but no motor is the same even if same parts are used. We know that anyway. But you try tell them DON'T use plastigauge as it gives a ballpark figure, they're going off about it. A good engine assembler would use micrometres anyway.
@@---xd4wm if there is a burr on the bearing itself or the cap itself somewhere along the edges, you can see it with naked eye, even feel it by toutch if that's what worries you. Don't need plastigauge for this. If it gets a little bit tight turning by hand, sometimes a rubber hammer does the job by gentle tapping on crankshaft snout side to side and on main caps. Otherwise a small file can be used to take that little burr away if needed.
You are exactly right. Tricky business if you don`t know what your`e doing.
@@---xd4wm if you can't see or you can't feel anything then you shouldn't be building engines and your assumptions or your comment should I say r for kindergarten kids. That's why micrometres are there for. And I've done crankshaft grinding and main cap boring and honing and have chosen the right size of bearings so here are the facts. You can't prove me wrong for I am an automotive machinist and a great one. Good luck with your spinning main bearings and your seized conrods mate, the rotating assy suppliers will love ya
Very well put about a mechanic vs. a machinist. I spent a lot of my younger years working as a machinist in an automotive machine shop. I would always use a dial bore gauge to check the clearances with, I like having the housing boars on the tight side for the benefits of bearing crush. If you want to see some very informative videos on engine machining check out Steve Morris!!!
This video is an absolute gem. Thanks!
14:05 I recommend using a bare piston for this step. Simply slide it into the bore upside down and use it to push the ring down flat, then measure the gap...
YZFoFittie bate Piston can sit on an angle, putting a ring on a piston and letting it sit against the deck makes sure it’s flat
Won't work with a dome piston.
God damn, Jon is going all out for his stroker and I could not be more excited for the finished project
Ok. I loved the shit out of that. I learned sooo much. The engravings on top of the pistons blew me away. More engine builds please.
I had shaver racing engines balance a crank and they spent 17 hours getting it to a perfect 0.000 . It makes a big difference.
"Oil Gobules"
-Bad. D. Braddy
Globules are but not "gobules." I'm just picking on Braddy for saying it wrong
@@acdcdave1387 Turn on captions and see what it says! What you have is oil goggles.
That and 15 to 20 thou clearance. He got the right ones but couldn't seem to get it out his mouth
is always a plasure to see Brad gettin so nerdy on builds that and also learn a lot from him, so informative video, love all the hoonigans! even Nads tho
When he started prying on those caps and dropping them tho smh 😂😂
Anthony DeMarchi I’m like what in the fucking world is wrong with this guy 😂
Best series on youtube
Man I really learned A LOT from this episode! This episode was extremely well done. I gained a lot of confidence to do my own engine.
Yessss I absolutely love it please,please more more more more I need more than content like this,🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🔥🔥🔥🔥this is exactly how u wanna build a motor.back in the day shittttt no one would tell you nothing about any building tech spec tips.shit was supper too secret..but a person like me that loves to build and be working on shit,I wanna do it rite,beyond rite,I want perfect.but for that I need proper info.and I’m the type after I learned everything,I wanna help people out that’s can’t just like how I was..thanks guys I appreciate this video 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
I've built a "few" engines since I did my very first 440 at 21 yo, when everybody told me I could not do it. This is a very good video for people starting to learn. Now a days, my friends would ask me to call them when I was getting ready to build a transmission or engine so they could watch. I would say, "yeah, OK" and not call them. I would call them or tell them when they called, it's already together. They would get mad at me and ask why I didn't call. I would tell them I didn't want to hear, " Well, Billy Bob said you can't do that because it will blow up when you start it". I don't have patience for stuff like that. I wish I did but I don't. I've tried to help people in the past with stuff as simple as installing rockers and got told I did it wrong because they were too tight. I explained to them when they asked me to help, that the intake would have to come back off to soak the lifters because they installed them dry. They did not want to take the intake back off because they would need new gaskets. I told them ahead of time it would be near impossible to set preload on rockers with lifters with no oil in them. After that, I was done helping people that don't want to listen to me that have never built an engine and don't want to listen to critical advice. I wish things were different, but that's how it goes. If someone that has put engines together before wants advice or help, that's another story. It's nice that you have patience that I don't. Good luck and hunting with your new engine.
You can construct your project with your buddies not to be in the way or moving anything to mess with you I was 12 with a 350 in 86 cutty but I haven't had but 2 cars worked on by anyone else besides me and I am 45 lol and I'm on 09 600 RR now I thought cars were fast but they are not all Ferrari fast for a few thousand bucks and 100 dollars for the entire years insurance
@@craigstreetzel7743 Yeah.......... The kid that ended up in my lane on a two lane road when I was on a Sunday drive on my '06 GSXR-1000 kinda ended my motorcycle days. A partially severed rt ring finger, broken pinky, three inch tear in my rt knee, and a five inch tear in my lt thigh, just 1/2 -1 inch short of my femoral artery. I'm done riding unless I leave N.J. These people drive like their on crack here.
So very helpful video and very well explained thanks I enjoyed the whole 18.19 minutes of it
Should be a good race if both dont break.
hanable moore pretty sure the tri5 will win the setup is alot beefier on it than the blasphemi. But definitely will be enjoyable to watch. Like both guys and channels so it will be good
Smo Kabong are you serious? LS's don't break down shit hemis do way more than any LS does. If the LS is done right like this one sure looks to be on the right path with completely built internals, it won't break down.
Smo Kabong do you even have a car?
Finnigan has extremely bad luck with vehicles lol
Smo Kabong i dont know about that bro. They throw that engine in everything for a reason. Yea its small but you can throw alot power at it reliably. Maybe the ls build youve seen have been incorrect or you have had bad luck with them.
I feel garage garage is the best series with build biology being a close second
How to build 700 HP LS.
Step 1) go to junk yard
Step 2) pull out any 4.8, 5.3, 6.0
Step 3) install cam and springs(doesn't really matter, most after market cams will work, the springs are more important.)
Step 4) add a turbo, cheap Chinese stuff off eBay works just fine.
Step 5) you're done. The engine is built. It's done. It will hold 700hp. You need not do anything to the short block. Just get a decent tune.
Step 6) enjoy your 200 miles
@@mudargamer that's like 800 passes at the track. Sounds good to me. A stock bottom end is fine at 700hp, and cool thing about turbo cars, you can turn them down on the fly so you can drive around at 400, and then turn it up when you want to smoke idiots who think ls engines will blow up at moderate power levels.
if you're building a track engine, should just build a carb'ed iron block and not even bother with LS; LS's are for people that don't have deep pockets and want something they can drive on the street and occasionally take to track
@@wildbill6976 that's one of the dumbest things I've heard in a while.
loved this video. pro af. please keep following all the technical stuff going down with this build
With motortrend deciding they are better than RUclips, and with Hoonigan starting a couple build series I would rather watch Hoonigan now ✌️️bye mtod
Just my opinnion
Watching both 👍
obviouslyrudy soild advice
Brad you deff earned your keep! HAHA I'm glad to see you build such cool stuff, & like a lot of the comments below, this was exciting to watch! Jon I can't wait until you can crank it up!!!!!
He checked the bearing clearance with one torque spec and did the finally assembly with another torque spec. So the original testing is almost pointless.
Shaun Gardner theoretically yes. But in practice, it's the fucking same.
Wyatt Elder not entirely, mr. band camp. The old bolts will stretch totally differently than those arp studs and more or less torque can change the clearance more than you think. All that work was for nothing when you change everything
Shaun Gardner the bolts will stretch, but the caps stay the same shape. That's how that works. If your caps are changing shape with out load, you have major problems.
I've also measured crank clearances before and after changing studs/bolts. My starret tools didn't measure it any different.
I wonder if the main caps were still the same shape the hiding they got with the screwdrivers and the ground.
This was my favorite episode of garage garage
Finnagen builds race cars and raceboats , Finnagen gonna win bro
His machine also makes over 400 more HP as well. And while power isn't everything... Well I know where this road ends for the Bad Dad.
Blasphemi just ran a 7.92 at drag week so they might need to bring a little more heat.
I did that on a 5k engine i built, didn't end well. I guess the same could be said for this motor.
Incredible attention to detail!!
I actually can't wait to see a few pics of tri5 by fire and blasphemi beside eachother!!!
Best informational video I have ever seen keep up the great how to videos 👍
Wait, wasn’t this the motor that rod knocked on the first start up? 😂
I believe this one dropped a valve seat
An LS? WOW THAT'S NEW AND AMAZING..said no one ever.
I've been away and out of the loop, I'm sorry. Besides a few little filler clips here and there, I don't know all that much about Bad Daddy Brad. Can we get a Beer with Brad or some kind of interview? I have a feeling Hoonigans flipped this guy's life on his head and combined with his skills and knowledge we have this symbiotic flower that I want to know more about.
MindCrime so watch other videos.....
Thank you guys for actually teaching us something! Great vid and I love the content!!! LS EVERYTHING!!!!!
"Clarence"
Roger
Over, Oveur...
What's our vector, Victor?
Best video ive found so far that was very helpful 👍🏽 you guys should build a 6.0 ls
Dang man, hate to call ya out. But an unlubed crank, no spinny spin when checking clearance
CorndogBrownie one of many reasons this engine blew on first start up
@@mrmidnight32 does the fancy high precision special sauce racing machine work and then used plastigauge lol
This can run dry sump with VRO pumps injection in to the intake manifold and amsoil dominator 2 stroke oil. These can be made into poppet valved loop charged 2 strokes. I filled a 5.3 with XD-100 etec 2 stroke oil with good results, can these is e rigged with dry sump, I have the VRO pumps as I can mount them for oil injection
Not only that but they checked clearance and then replaced the bolts. Usually you want everything matched when it’s align honed...
I love hoonigan but there’s a lot of bad tech here that I hope doesn’t end up ruining a lot of loyal subscribers vehicles
Tuesday is best day.
More Tri 5!!!!! Whoop whoop.
1. All engines have there crankshafts balanced, if they didn't, the motor wouldn't last very long. 2. If you purchase good high performance rods, they are already balanced to within 1 gram of one another. You should never have to grind on connecting rods anymore unless your just trying to shave weight. Besides that, it's an excellent video. Gotta look into that domed wiseco piston. I didn't think anyone made a domed piston for the LS.
As has been ASE Master Tech when the building had "Datsun" on it, I truly appreciate the information that are providing regarding the crankshaft movement feel. It is important to anyone building their engine from the bottom up to get a balance assembly and the "Feel" for the crankshaft installed. Thank you for this valuable information.
ASE MASTER TECH since 1978 / Retired
You literally just changed my life.
Wish I could work in time lapse.
This video is epic in so many ways thank you so much!
Go back and watch DT 059 - 1st episode with Bad Daddy Brad and his insane T bucket- note - Jon was the 1st to drive it, lol Vin & Hert were talking about Jon rebuilding his '55 gasser w/ turbos, after Jon drove the T bucket he said he wanted an LS in the gasser, and now here's Brad expertly building an LS motor for said gasser.
We have come full circle!
I love that LS's are 6 bolt mains. That's why they are so damn strong
Directional arrows and numbers are on all LS main caps from GM.
Great job of small detail explanations !
Is it bad that I only watch thehoonigans on Tuesdays now
Efrain Chavez Yes because Hoonigan is life.
Yes. Because you are missing great content on the other days.
Its the only day that really matters now
You should do more garage garage it definetly my favorite segment
“This needs to be smooth as ICE!!!!”
-Bad daddy brady 2018
This guy's pretty good. And no nonsensical and distracting tattoos running up his arms, which must be rare in the automotive trade anymore.
Fyi the engine he put together had a catastrophic failure within 2 days of first start, he totally f'd up the assembly.
Proof?
@@MrShobar yeah watch the next video where he is pulling the motor back out and the junkyard ls went in, then the kall out king's finale when the motor got put back in after CPR had to go back through it.
garage
GarAGEEEEEEEH
Big thanks build dad brad. Great video.
Harbor Freight torque wrench lol that’ll get you guys far 😂
I noticed that right away too. No way I'm torquing my $10,000 engine with an $8 Harbor Freight torque wrench.
Daniel Silva it’s 9.99! After coupon.
Probably a good idea to pick up the main caps that u dropped on the floor and check them for oil globules 👍
Great series- I have built 100's of motors from street to race (never a LS) but still find this video informative and very interesting.
Save yourself the temptation I say, and stay away from the LS.
An engine like drugs, all roar and gospel at the beginning and then a slow descent into soulless love trapped by something you thought meant more... The LS is good, but damn is it scary what it can do to a persons perspective.
What an awesome teacher. Great video!! Please upload more!!
Ugh... no assembly grease,wal-mart torque wrench might as well call this a roadkill parking lot build.
tyler weigel for guys that Ken their own shop, professionally balanced a crankshaft and rods, you’d think they wouldn’t wanna mess up the micro polishing.
Then again they did edit the footage, so they could’ve just applied it off camera
albraa sayed I don't think Brad is worried about the long time use of this motor .
cheapo torque wrenches are basically equivalent to more expensive torque wrenches in terms of accuracy(at least when new, i havent seen any data on their accuracy vs uses, just remember these are not used everyday and only do a few torques, now a wrench thats used every day for doing dozens of fasteners high end clicker types typically stay accurate for years and even when it falls out of cal or wont cal, its still close enough) . the importance of accurate torque matters less as we introduce angle yields to our fastener loads. another important note not made is fastener torques are always given in clean and dry threads unless otherwise stated. as the k factor decreases the less torque is required to achieve the same clamp load, also why angle is becoming more popular to specify fastener tension, it significantly decreases the variance of fastener friction on the final clamp load. beam deflection guage torque wrenches are supposedly the most accurate, (the ones with the dial indicator on them) but i feel the electronic ones are probably best, allegedly the same accuracy but a much simpler design with less chance for error as well as having built in angle sensors, and they will show final torque achieved.
cheapo torque wrenches are basically equivalent to more expensive torque wrenches in terms of accuracy(at least when new, i havent seen any data on their accuracy vs uses, just remember these are not used everyday and only do a few torques, now a wrench thats used every day for doing dozens of fasteners high end clicker types typically stay accurate for years and even when it falls out of cal or wont cal, its still close enough) . the importance of accurate torque matters less as we introduce angle yields to our fastener loads. another important note not made is fastener torques are always given in clean and dry threads unless otherwise stated. as the k factor decreases the less torque is required to achieve the same clamp load, also why angle is becoming more popular to specify fastener tension, it significantly decreases the variance of fastener friction on the final clamp load. beam deflection guage torque wrenches are supposedly the most accurate, (the ones with the dial indicator on them) but i feel the electronic ones are probably best, allegedly the same accuracy but a much simpler design with less chance for error as well as having built in angle sensors, and they will show final torque achieved.
cheapo torque wrenches are basically equivalent to more expensive torque wrenches in terms of accuracy(at least when new, i havent seen any data on their accuracy vs uses, just remember these are not used everyday and only do a few torques, now a wrench thats used every day for doing dozens of fasteners high end clicker types typically stay accurate for years and even when it falls out of cal or wont cal, its still close enough) . the importance of accurate torque matters less as we introduce angle yields to our fastener loads. another important note not made is fastener torques are always given in clean and dry threads unless otherwise stated. as the k factor decreases the less torque is required to achieve the same clamp load, also why angle is becoming more popular to specify fastener tension, it significantly decreases the variance of fastener friction on the final clamp load. beam deflection guage torque wrenches are supposedly the most accurate, (the ones with the dial indicator on them) but i feel the electronic ones are probably best, allegedly the same accuracy but a much simpler design with less chance for error as well as having built in angle sensors, and they will show final torque achieved.
AND an 'Airplane' reference... ! thumbs up!
You guys should get road kill to come out to hoonigan
as long as they dont make us go to motortrend to watch it :p
silosis
In my best Freiburger voice
"Wanna see more? Subscribe to MotorTrend On Demand now."
^ What we get to watch from MT is actually not bad for 4.99 a month
You must be running power adders, LS ring gap is .016, also to set the rings uniform in the cylinders use an old piston with a top ring in the oil ring slot, push it upside down in the cylinder to get the new rings uniform in the cylinder for measurment. Saves time.
This could be Hert but he wanted some chipps instead
Brads always got a good wrap in him
I’ve tightened so many Stretch bolts in my life I decided to do a test so I wanted to see if I can get the boat to within spec of the torque setting without using the torque wrench just using feel and surprisingly I was right on the money just feeling the bolt!
Now that’s a wrap right there!
Definitely got a new subscriber today I enjoyed watching this video very informative and Relaxing at the same time.
Good way to check rings is to install in bore and put you piston upside down and push down a bit on top then you will have even clearance.
love this build
mOAR
Bad daddy braddy is the man!!
Arp studs will change the clamp specs. Surprised they didn't measure with studs instead of factory bolts. LS101.
That's exactly what I said, I'd like to see the oil after 20 min, bet it looks like a 70"s metal flake paint job. Hoonigans? Fooligans more like it...
WROng there is a target clamping force they want and if the spec don't change the clamping load force dosen't unless they change when they put the studs in 100 ft lbs same stud or bolt .
Thank you very much for the detailed information Im in the process of building my first LS!
I'm so glad brad is part of hoonigan, he is perfect for this show. Although he may do sketchy work sometimes, he is very knowledgeable and I exactly learned a lot.
I just learned so much. Thankyou.
Blasphemi just ran a 7.92 at drag week
I like how gm went to a skirted block and 6 bolt mains so you can have a stout bottom end.