We just had our whirlpool oven 5 years suddenly go out thank you for posting. It has been a pain only used self clean 3-4 times in all these years and then display would not let me use it anymore. Purpose design flaw? Surprised we didn’t have a house fire with all the melting. This is disgusting manufacturing practices to build appliance to fail within 3-5 years. I have a 60 year old freezer still working in our barn
My wall oven/microwave KEMC377KSS05 unit had a dead display. I was able troubleshot it and fix two failed resistor on the controller board. My control board had a blown .6 amp slow blow fuse that drives / protects the 120v side of the the controller board transformer indicating excessive current/power consumption. The transformer has a 26, 24 and 7.5v secondary wires that tested good (continuity and voltage levels (not connected when tested.) Excessive current/blown fuse was on the 7.5 secondary lines. I located and replaced two overheated / slightly toasted 12 ohms (1Watt)resistors. That had failed and measured at 8ohms.) These two side by side resistors are located on the front of the second control board where displays are located. They are the only two large fully exposed resistor on the right edge of the display/drive board. The resistor are located in the cutout section of the board. Powered it up and it worked!! The transformer draw current was about .18 amps on the primary side. - Thank you for the review.
Yeah this happened to me also after a self clean. Waited until it cooled, changed out the thermal fuse a few days later and I got power to the screen but I tried to turn on the elements and nothing happened. I changed the thermostat at the back and that fixed that problem. But when we were pushing the oven back into the wall, I noticed the screen went blank again. Thermal fuse is still fine as well as the thermostat. Where do I go from here? Control board or touch panel? How do I test those parts?
Those can be dicey, as there generally are not any voltage or ohm values to check for those. However, it is common to have a loose communication cable connection, which is generally a ribbon type cable, or a multi pin small wire cable connection. I usually inspect those very carefully disengage, and re-engage. Also confirm that all your neutral connections are good, and are reading proper voltages. If there is a wiring diagram on the machine, I'll review, check, and triple check all the connections, and voltage values that are present on the diagram.
my expensive whirlpool built in oven just died after it's first self clean run. It's an under counter model and is screwed in to the cabinet. But the door is locked so I cant even get it out . I am looking for a video on how to unlatch the door. And I am stunned at how bad appliance engineering could be. Hope to be able to get to the advice here. Thanks for this part, hope I can get to it !
That's always a tough one. Try and cycle the power at the breaker 1st, turn off fr a minute then back on, you never know. Otherwise, I have a set of "dental picks" ( pointed picks in various shapes ) that I can sometimes manipulate between the door, and latch mechanism just to open the door then remove unit, and investigate from there. If that doesn't work I've also had to use dremel tools, and or multi tools to grind the heads off of the mounting screws to remove unit. Often, wall ovens are not even screwed in, so see if you can Jimmy the machine back and forth, as it may not be mounted. Either way, good luck.
@@toddolsen995 thanks, I knew the stove was screwed into the face frame of the cabinet because I screwed it in when we installed it ! Here's what worked for us...We bent an old fashioned/ strong metal coat hanger into an L and inserted it in flat, then turned the 1-1/2 '' leg of the L down and ran it back and forth for awhile till we eventually caught the latch and got the door open. Whew ! Ordered the fuse and thermostat - hoping those are the only two bad parts. Thanks for your video !
Im having the same problem after running a self cleaning cycle. My problem is the door is on the locked position with no power. How do I remove the oven without having access to the screws that attach the oven to the trim panel?
That can be tricky. I have a set of metal "dental picks" I like to use. Sometimes I can get on in the door to slightly move the lock latch enough to open it. If not try a hack saw blade to run down the jamb and cut the screws, if not that you'll have to pry carefully to keep the wood damage minimal.
I have a Whirlpool double wall oven which the top half stopped heating. The display works fine and the lower half bakes normally. The day the top-half smells, it stopped heating and I smelled a burning plastic smell that went away eventually. Is that the bake element or the fuse on control board that made only the top-half of the double-oven it smell like burning plastic? Does each half-oven have their own thermal fuse? Or does one fuse control both?
Most likely the high limit at the back of the oven, and or melted wiring based on the smell scenario. If you can download a wiring diagram, or there may be one at the electronic control compartment up top, and are savvy with a multimeter, tracing these circuits from the top back will reveal what has gone bad. Really all electronics should be metered anyway just to rule out the unnecessary. Most likely though the unit will have to be removed.
Basically another fuse at the back of the machine somewhere. Most whirlpool ovens use that type of system. Again check everything you can from the electronic area as it sounds like you may have a couple issues. Yes, it should have continuity
I have the same oven and problem. How to remove the control panel? I have removed the 4 screws under neath the control panel but couldn’t yank it out. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I think on this one there are side screws. You'll have to remove the mounting screws, and pull the oven out a few inches to acces the screws. Although I can't remember exactly. They all vary a bit.
1st try cycling the power. If that doesn't work look inside the top of the door. Sometimes its possible to stick a small tool or piece of wire, coat hanger, etc.. and pull the latch a bit off the door catch. If neither of those work you'll have to try and cut, or pry the mounting screws from the side of the oven.
If the oven works (can hear proper beeping when pressing keypad buttons and oven heats up after pressing 'Start' button), but there are no lights on the display...is that a control board issue vs a fuse issue, correct?
@@toddolsen995 Thanks for the reply, Todd. I'm going to send the control board to a repair guy from eBay who offers to check it and let customer know if it can be repaired...if not. gives a refund, except for shipping. I'm concerned it's the actual LCD screen as you say, and no way to replace just the screen I suppose? Bummer about it is the oven's been used less than 30 times since we bought the house new because my wife just uses a smaller countertop oven mostly.
@@AGhostInTheMachine your best bet would be to call reliable parts, or repair clinic. Both contacts can be found with a quick Google search. Call them with your model, and serial number ready, and see what the parts breakdown is. They're both real helpful.
We have a 2 y ear old expensive oven range. The display does not work. We called Whirlpool but couldn’t talk to a person. Both repair men said that we are looking at 900 dollar cost to repair because I guess that the control board needs to be replaced. Boy this sounds like gross engineering.. We have never used the self clean.
A bit of vagueness there. But it wouldn't surprise me if that was the case. Many machines use several control boards, and electrical metering values are not always present, or available. As is the situation, it is sometimes necessary to replace more than one control unit. Factor in labor, part cost, shipping, and tax...sadly 900 may be the bottom line.
Probably not. Most Frigidaire wall ovens have reset able thermal high limits at the back of the unit. It's ideal to diagnose these from the front or the top with a proper electrical meter. Otherwise, you have to remove the unit from the wall, and guess that it's the thermal reset at the back.
What is the initial problem,, no display ? Thermals on the back, or in the control area? Is proper voltage present at the terminal connections? 120 volts between L1, L2, and neutral, and ground? If all that checks ok, and there's no display there may be some low voltage missing at a transformer or low voltage circuit. If there's a display but no heat, and previously mentioned voltage values ate there, it can be damaged wiring, connectors, or a bad relay at the control board/ relay board.
Ok, there most likely is not a contrll fuse on your model. I would have to carefully read the wiring diagram, and start metering the voltages as I mentioned previously.
We just had our whirlpool oven 5 years suddenly go out thank you for posting. It has been a pain only used self clean 3-4 times in all these years and then display would not let me use it anymore. Purpose design flaw? Surprised we didn’t have a house fire with all the melting. This is disgusting manufacturing practices to build appliance to fail within 3-5 years. I have a 60 year old freezer still working in our barn
You just clutched up hard. Was at this customers house for over an hour and you saved the day.
well done, thank you! Just lost my display last night. It died all on it's own. no self-cleaning involved.
Thank you so much for the video Todd! I had a similar issue with my Whirpool oven. Ordered the Thermal fuse part and it's back to life.
Great to hear!
My wall oven/microwave KEMC377KSS05 unit had a dead display. I was able troubleshot it and fix two failed resistor on the controller board. My control board had a blown .6 amp slow blow fuse that drives / protects the 120v side of the the controller board transformer indicating excessive current/power consumption. The transformer has a 26, 24 and 7.5v secondary wires that tested good (continuity and voltage levels (not connected when tested.) Excessive current/blown fuse was on the 7.5 secondary lines. I located and replaced two overheated / slightly toasted 12 ohms (1Watt)resistors. That had failed and measured at 8ohms.) These two side by side resistors are located on the front of the second control board where displays are located. They are the only two large fully exposed resistor on the right edge of the display/drive board. The resistor are located in the cutout section of the board. Powered it up and it worked!! The transformer draw current was about .18 amps on the primary side. - Thank you for the review.
This was my oven model and my exact issue. Thank you so much!
This happened to mine. Thank you so much for the help.
Thanks for the video! My Whirlpool WOS51EC7AS01 failed last night after cooking a pizza. Appreciate the troubleshooting assistance!
This happened to my whirlpool double oven only 3.5 yrs old, model WOD51EC0AS. Thanks for sharing the video! I’m ordering the part!
Same as mine
Thank you for the Video! This was exactly what was wrong. 20 min to diagnose and ordered part for 2 day delivery.
Hi Ryan,
Do you have a link to that fuse please?
Great teaching voice. Helpful as all getout!
Bless you! New oven thermal fuse fixed it and saved me hundreds!
Glad it worked out!
Thanks for this video! I have this oven and problem. Good to know what the problem likely is.
That fixed it!! Thanks.
Good to hear!
Gracias, me salvaste la vida !!!!!
I do not have the part number offhand. It's best to call a parts supplier with your model number, and they'll do the lookup for you.
I have the same wall oven and it just shut off and no display. I hope its just the fuse, thanks for this video.
Where did you get the fuse? I have the same problem, light into the stove but no display
Thank you
Repair clinic is a good resource.
I've replaced the fuse and still no display. Any ideas for the next step?
Thanks!
Yeah this happened to me also after a self clean. Waited until it cooled, changed out the thermal fuse a few days later and I got power to the screen but I tried to turn on the elements and nothing happened. I changed the thermostat at the back and that fixed that problem. But when we were pushing the oven back into the wall, I noticed the screen went blank again. Thermal fuse is still fine as well as the thermostat. Where do I go from here? Control board or touch panel? How do I test those parts?
Those can be dicey, as there generally are not any voltage or ohm values to check for those. However, it is common to have a loose communication cable connection, which is generally a ribbon type cable, or a multi pin small wire cable connection. I usually inspect those very carefully disengage, and re-engage. Also confirm that all your neutral connections are good, and are reading proper voltages. If there is a wiring diagram on the machine, I'll review, check, and triple check all the connections, and voltage values that are present on the diagram.
my expensive whirlpool built in oven just died after it's first self clean run. It's an under counter model and is screwed in to the cabinet. But the door is locked so I cant even get it out . I am looking for a video on how to unlatch the door. And I am stunned at how bad appliance engineering could be. Hope to be able to get to the advice here. Thanks for this part, hope I can get to it !
That's always a tough one. Try and cycle the power at the breaker 1st, turn off fr a minute then back on, you never know. Otherwise, I have a set of "dental picks" ( pointed picks in various shapes ) that I can sometimes manipulate between the door, and latch mechanism just to open the door then remove unit, and investigate from there. If that doesn't work I've also had to use dremel tools, and or multi tools to grind the heads off of the mounting screws to remove unit. Often, wall ovens are not even screwed in, so see if you can Jimmy the machine back and forth, as it may not be mounted. Either way, good luck.
@@toddolsen995 thanks, I knew the stove was screwed into the face frame of the cabinet because I screwed it in when we installed it ! Here's what worked for us...We bent an old fashioned/ strong metal coat hanger into an L and inserted it in flat, then turned the 1-1/2 '' leg of the L down and ran it back and forth for awhile till we eventually caught the latch and got the door open. Whew ! Ordered the fuse and thermostat - hoping those are the only two bad parts. Thanks for your video !
Thank you the coat hanger worked great
@@danielleitch7127 Where did you insert the coat hanger I can't even tell where the latch is?
Im having the same problem after running a self cleaning cycle. My problem is the door is on the locked position with no power. How do I remove the oven without having access to the screws that attach the oven to the trim panel?
That can be tricky. I have a set of metal "dental picks" I like to use. Sometimes I can get on in the door to slightly move the lock latch enough to open it. If not try a hack saw blade to run down the jamb and cut the screws, if not that you'll have to pry carefully to keep the wood damage minimal.
I have a Whirlpool double wall oven which the top half stopped heating. The display works fine and the lower half bakes normally. The day the top-half smells, it stopped heating and I smelled a burning plastic smell that went away eventually. Is that the bake element or the fuse on control board that made only the top-half of the double-oven it smell like burning plastic? Does each half-oven have their own thermal fuse? Or does one fuse control both?
Most likely the high limit at the back of the oven, and or melted wiring based on the smell scenario. If you can download a wiring diagram, or there may be one at the electronic control compartment up top, and are savvy with a multimeter, tracing these circuits from the top back will reveal what has gone bad. Really all electronics should be metered anyway just to rule out the unnecessary. Most likely though the unit will have to be removed.
@@toddolsen995 hi Todd and thanks for the reply! What is meant by “the high limit” is that a particular part I would have to test for continuity?
Basically another fuse at the back of the machine somewhere. Most whirlpool ovens use that type of system. Again check everything you can from the electronic area as it sounds like you may have a couple issues. Yes, it should have continuity
@@toddolsen995 ok thanks again
Yes, should have continuity. It's similar to a fuse
Just checked my fuse with an Ohm meter and no continuity. Ordering one now.
I have the same oven and problem. How to remove the control panel? I have removed the 4 screws under neath the control panel but couldn’t yank it out. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Replaced the thermal fuse and back to business. Thanks for sharing this video.
I think on this one there are side screws. You'll have to remove the mounting screws, and pull the oven out a few inches to acces the screws. Although I can't remember exactly. They all vary a bit.
I have that same model how do I get the oven out if I cannot get the door to unlock. Need help please
1st try cycling the power. If that doesn't work look inside the top of the door. Sometimes its possible to stick a small tool or piece of wire, coat hanger, etc.. and pull the latch a bit off the door catch. If neither of those work you'll have to try and cut, or pry the mounting screws from the side of the oven.
If the oven works (can hear proper beeping when pressing keypad buttons and oven heats up after pressing 'Start' button), but there are no lights on the display...is that a control board issue vs a fuse issue, correct?
Probably not the fuse. Most likely a failure with the LCD screen.
@@toddolsen995 Thanks for the reply, Todd. I'm going to send the control board to a repair guy from eBay who offers to check it and let customer know if it can be repaired...if not. gives a refund, except for shipping. I'm concerned it's the actual LCD screen as you say, and no way to replace just the screen I suppose?
Bummer about it is the oven's been used less than 30 times since we bought the house new because my wife just uses a smaller countertop oven mostly.
@@AGhostInTheMachine your best bet would be to call reliable parts, or repair clinic. Both contacts can be found with a quick Google search. Call them with your model, and serial number ready, and see what the parts breakdown is. They're both real helpful.
Problem fixed can now get into the stove to put new therapy fuse in
Thermal
We have a 2 y ear old expensive oven range. The display does not work. We called Whirlpool but couldn’t talk to a person. Both repair men said that we are looking at 900 dollar cost to repair because I guess that the control board needs to be replaced. Boy this sounds like gross engineering.. We have never used the self clean.
A bit of vagueness there. But it wouldn't surprise me if that was the case. Many machines use several control boards, and electrical metering values are not always present, or available. As is the situation, it is sometimes necessary to replace more than one control unit. Factor in labor, part cost, shipping, and tax...sadly 900 may be the bottom line.
I have the exact same oven and it went dead after self cleaning. Where can I find the model number, I can't open the door?
Unfortunately it's under the door in the door jamb.
Most likely the thermal at the back failed. Try using a pice of coat hanger to push the latch that holds the door locked.
I have a double Frigidaire wall oven does it have a fuse in the same location?
Probably not. Most Frigidaire wall ovens have reset able thermal high limits at the back of the unit. It's ideal to diagnose these from the front or the top with a proper electrical meter. Otherwise, you have to remove the unit from the wall, and guess that it's the thermal reset at the back.
@@toddolsen995 both reset thermal switch were IN position not out.. both but i dont think it would turn panel lights off
What is the initial problem,, no display ? Thermals on the back, or in the control area? Is proper voltage present at the terminal connections? 120 volts between L1, L2, and neutral, and ground? If all that checks ok, and there's no display there may be some low voltage missing at a transformer or low voltage circuit. If there's a display but no heat, and previously mentioned voltage values ate there, it can be damaged wiring, connectors, or a bad relay at the control board/ relay board.
Todd Olsen there’s no light on display and limiters are all in none popped out
So trying to locate control display fuse
Ok, there most likely is not a contrll fuse on your model. I would have to carefully read the wiring diagram, and start metering the voltages as I mentioned previously.
Correct part number is
That's going to vary by model number. Check with your preferred parts supplier to ensure proper part/ model specifications.
As