That's awesome! I was excited to see what your reaction was when it worked. I figured it would because I doubt you'd put up a video of a repair that didn't. 😎
Hey this is a great video, thanks. Not only is it spot on, but entertaining. Only thing missing was the relative cost of the relay (guessing by the size, it’s under $40). Cheers.
It depends on your machine but the burners typically work without the board. However, your power typically goes through the board to your spark module. So I wouldn’t remove the board because you wouldn’t have any spark.
I have a Whirlpool gas range where the over doesn't bake constantly or preheat properly. I replaced the temperature sensor and the igniter and did a re-calibration and still have the problem. Can that board be repaired or should I get a new board which is less expensive than a new stove.
As long as you replace your igniter in your temperature probe with OEM parts, and not parts from “the rainforest”, you are probably on the right track. There is probably something within the inner workings of the board that is not reading the temperature properly.
Don't be afraid to use a nylon brush on those boards, next time you have to repair them, instead of using those gauze pads to remove soot. If I was able to pull that off on my rare NEC Turbo Duo game system (a TurboGrafx16 with an added Super CD-Rom 2 system, whatever that is), where most of all of those components are surface mount devices, you could do it easily on that control board, with the nylon brush. That system was more popular in Japan, than in the States. ....but instead of me cleaning soot, I used the brush to clean off some extremely nasty and corrosive electrolyte that came out of about 53 tiny aluminum electrolytic surface mount capacitors that I de-soldered prior to the cleansing. Almost the whole system board was coated with that brown, nasty, and foul smelling poison. Someone in a capacitor manufacturing facility dropped the ball with the electrolyte formula on those tiny capacitors for that system, as well as on many Sega Game Gears. I did successfully bring back my Turbo Duo to life though, with a fresh new quality capacitor kit that I soldered one by one, to the board after the cleansing. Before all of this, the console had failed me, and embarrassed me when I lent it off to my best friend, and he told me it wasn't doing anything when he connected it to his TV.
Have the same exact problem, just ordered the same part on line because you can see the relay was burnt out. Do you have any tips for reinstalling the new one other then what you showed. I think this video may have saved me a new oven! 🤞🏼
I hope it works out for you! With repairs like these, my biggest piece of advice would be take your time. Let me know how it goes! And thanks for watching!
@@affordableappliances3082 it worked! Thank you so much! We have been using the oven for 3 months now and no issues, we just followed the same exact steps! Thank you so much you saved us hundreds of dollars.
When you removed the board, the clock stayed with the board, and there was still glass or plastic covering the window through which the clock is viewed. I have a GE electric range with similar controls. There is a squashed bug between the clock and the window. Would removing the circuit board as you did here give me access to clean bug parts off the clock and its window?
Can you help me find a relay 😂 my over boytem element blew and i replaced it, but now the relay isnt sending power to the one side . New board $450 and idk how to find the relay . Is there a way to bypass? I seen someone saying something on that
You can maybe ask somebody how to do that. But that’s not something that we would do. You could probably find the relay online as it should have some numbers on it. You can search for. If you have a component supply house near you, you can take your board to them and see if they can help you find the relay.
I have an electronic whirlpool stove/oven. I am getting an F9 code. Took the back off, took to circuit board out got the clock back bit still no heat from oven or units. Board seeks to look OK too, tho some of the plugs important the board are bad. No juice. Should those just need replaced or is there a main one for it?
What is the F9 code on your particular machine? I’m a little confused as to what you’re trying to say in your comment. Feel free to call the store and ask for Matt. 219-465-6483 if you have your model number and serial number, that might be a big help as well.
Do you know if that is the typical fix? I have the same thing, except mine is a convection, but I'm having the same problem. I didn't have any obvious problems as yours though. The convection model replacement is even more expensive please help
I have a gas range that shows F1 can you point me in the direction on how to fix it? I can’t afford a new control board. I’ve already checked the wires and the control board doesn’t have any burned marks
I have a whirlpool gas oven that starts up the flame but shuts off in a few seconds? I changed the spark ignitor and the themo sensor/prob but still have the same issues, could it be a control board problem or maybe even a relay?
It’s hard for me to determine what the problem might be without looking at it but I don’t think it would be a relay issue. It sounds like it is a board issue.
I need help. There was a lightning storm at my house. The burners on my gas stove work but oven does not. I have replaced ignitor, regulator, and temp sensor ( display was showing F3 ). When I push button for bake it beeps and shows 3 - - - I am at a loss. I appreciate any advise
Not knowing your model, I’m a bit at a disadvantage. But you may have taken a power surge that damaged the board (considering you already replaced the igniter). We can help you get a replacement. 219-465-6483 :)
Kenmore electric wall oven control panel started making noise still heats and gets hot but noise doesn't stop its not a fan noise, I can tell it's coming from panel any info greatly appreciated
Can you post the relay number. My stove looks exactly like that one. I can't zoom in to see the relay number and the stove isn't near me, its at a different location.
@@affordableappliances3082 thanks. It turns out the bake element was almost cracked in half. I replaced it and works great however I still have an error code F6E4 which isn't even in the manual. One RUclips said it was a control board but everything looks good and I tested all the things that were suggested. I also noted when I was in the back that there is a lonely 2 prong connector plugged into the control board and just dangling, There is absolutely nothing anywhere to connect this to. Is it a spare for a special option on the stove itself? Maybe just came with the new control board that was replaced a year ago or so?
We have a similar model of oven and have some experience doing desoldering, but failed to de-solder the relays. The top two pins could be desoldered, but the lower four were not able to be desoldered. One reason may have been that they are connected to large grounding pads which absorb the heat. However, we tried several approaches: 400 F soldering iron, putting more solder on to pull off what was there, and using a heat gun + soldering iron. Even cut off a relay and tried to use the soldering iron to push through the solder and wire, but no luck! Do you have any tips for how to succeed in desoldering the old ones? Thanks! At least with the relay that we cut off, it kind of confirmed that it was the relay that was the culprit since on the inside of the relay there was quite a bit of black.
@@affordableappliances3082 I have a similar problem with a gas stove and gas oven with a similar display the relays are located in different areas but the display buttons are the same whirlpool. Note am in Jamaica and my wife wants to bake her cakes. The display works on and off one moment it bakes and works fine the next minute it wont come on. when i just plug in the stove in the electrical the outlet the display flashes and goes off. but as i said sometimes i press the buttons and it comes and work next minutes it does not. my wife love the holidays and what to get her oven working. Is it a relay problem? note i don't see any burn on the board or damage. am a technician so i have some ideas just not a stove specialist.
On the replacement? They matched the one on the board. At this time I’m not sure what they were. But if you are trying to match a relay, I would match the numbers on the relay. You are trying to replace as opposed to the numbers on this relay. Your part might be different.
Im having this same problem! But sometimes my oven works. And sometimes it doesnt. One minute the small screen is displaying numbers and then we can hear a clicking sound and the small screen is blank. Would replacing the relays possibly fix our problem?
It sounds like you do have some sort of board issue. But I’m not sure if it’s the relays. Feel free to give us a call and we can maybe help you troubleshoot some more. If it’s your personal machine, it might be more efficient to just replace the board. We can help you with that.
IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE RELAY! Just put the red and orange wires together after cutting them and taking the wires off the board. The relay is not necessary. The stove works fine without it and if you notice on most of the newer boards, the factory did away with the relay altogether.
I doing this for 15 years-52 years experience (bypassing the relay ) What the factory has found out is that these go out before the warranty period and it costs them money, they want it to go bad outside the warranty period (planned obsolescence) If it was necessary they would not have eliminated them in the newer versions of the board. (You find it on older GE and Frigidaire brands)All that is really needed is a bake relay and a broil relay.@@affordableappliances3082
That's awesome! I was excited to see what your reaction was when it worked. I figured it would because I doubt you'd put up a video of a repair that didn't. 😎
Any ideas what the issue may be if my oven and display doesnt work but the stove top does?
Hey this is a great video, thanks. Not only is it spot on, but entertaining.
Only thing missing was the relative cost of the relay (guessing by the size, it’s under $40). Cheers.
Well under $40. I think I got six of them for 20 bucks.
Where can i find a relay? @@affordableappliances3082
Outstanding Video!
Thanks for watching!
Is the control board needed for using the burners? Can I remove the control board and still use the burners?
It depends on your machine but the burners typically work without the board. However, your power typically goes through the board to your spark module. So I wouldn’t remove the board because you wouldn’t have any spark.
But how did you determine that it was the relay? I have an oven that has the exact same problem.
The relay was burnt. It was kind of a giveaway. Do you have an electric machine?
@@affordableappliances3082what if yours is not burnt?
I have a Whirlpool gas range where the over doesn't bake constantly or preheat properly. I replaced the temperature sensor and the igniter and did a re-calibration and still have the problem. Can that board be repaired or should I get a new board which is less expensive than a new stove.
As long as you replace your igniter in your temperature probe with OEM parts, and not parts from “the rainforest”, you are probably on the right track. There is probably something within the inner workings of the board that is not reading the temperature properly.
Don't be afraid to use a nylon brush on those boards, next time you have to repair them, instead of using those gauze pads to remove soot. If I was able to pull that off on my rare NEC Turbo Duo game system (a TurboGrafx16 with an added Super CD-Rom 2 system, whatever that is), where most of all of those components are surface mount devices, you could do it easily on that control board, with the nylon brush. That system was more popular in Japan, than in the States. ....but instead of me cleaning soot, I used the brush to clean off some extremely nasty and corrosive electrolyte that came out of about 53 tiny aluminum electrolytic surface mount capacitors that I de-soldered prior to the cleansing. Almost the whole system board was coated with that brown, nasty, and foul smelling poison. Someone in a capacitor manufacturing facility dropped the ball with the electrolyte formula on those tiny capacitors for that system, as well as on many Sega Game Gears. I did successfully bring back my Turbo Duo to life though, with a fresh new quality capacitor kit that I soldered one by one, to the board after the cleansing. Before all of this, the console had failed me, and embarrassed me when I lent it off to my best friend, and he told me it wasn't doing anything when he connected it to his TV.
I love repairing electronics. I don’t get to do it enough.
Have the same exact problem, just ordered the same part on line because you can see the relay was burnt out. Do you have any tips for reinstalling the new one other then what you showed. I think this video may have saved me a new oven! 🤞🏼
I hope it works out for you! With repairs like these, my biggest piece of advice would be take your time. Let me know how it goes! And thanks for watching!
@@affordableappliances3082 it worked! Thank you so much! We have been using the oven for 3 months now and no issues, we just followed the same exact steps! Thank you so much you saved us hundreds of dollars.
@@mattreuther3424 that is totally awesome! I love that!!!
When you removed the board, the clock stayed with the board, and there was still glass or plastic covering the window through which the clock is viewed. I have a GE electric range with similar controls. There is a squashed bug between the clock and the window. Would removing the circuit board as you did here give me access to clean bug parts off the clock and its window?
It’s certainly possible, but uncertain without the model number and serial number of your machine.
It’s hard to say without knowing your model number and serial number.
I have a whirlpool gold oven sometimes heats well. Other times takes very long to actually get up to temp. Where can I get relays online?
When was the last time you replace the igniter with an OEM igniter? That’s probably the first place I would start.
@@affordableappliances3082 it's an electric range
Do you know what model the relay is? I have the exact stove with the same problem!
I do not. Sorry. I searched the Internet for the numbers that were on the body of the relay.
Can you help me find a relay 😂 my over boytem element blew and i replaced it, but now the relay isnt sending power to the one side . New board $450 and idk how to find the relay . Is there a way to bypass? I seen someone saying something on that
You can maybe ask somebody how to do that. But that’s not something that we would do. You could probably find the relay online as it should have some numbers on it. You can search for. If you have a component supply house near you, you can take your board to them and see if they can help you find the relay.
@affordableappliances3082 thanks for the advice, I will try that first
I have an electronic whirlpool stove/oven. I am getting an F9 code. Took the back off, took to circuit board out got the clock back bit still no heat from oven or units. Board seeks to look OK too, tho some of the plugs important the board are bad. No juice. Should those just need replaced or is there a main one for it?
What is the F9 code on your particular machine? I’m a little confused as to what you’re trying to say in your comment. Feel free to call the store and ask for Matt. 219-465-6483 if you have your model number and serial number, that might be a big help as well.
Do you know if that is the typical fix? I have the same thing, except mine is a convection, but I'm having the same problem. I didn't have any obvious problems as yours though. The convection model replacement is even more expensive please help
I wouldn’t say it’s a typical fix. But depending on the machine and someone’s ability level, it might be possible.
How did you test the relay?
The old one was smoked. You could see how damaged it was.
Thank you so much!!!!
We replaced the bake relay and fixed the problem. Next day its back to not working. Whst could cause the relay to go out again?
It could be a bad relay. If you got one out of “the rainforest” it’s probably a cheap knockoff. Try ordering from Digikey.
I have a gas range that shows F1 can you point me in the direction on how to fix it? I can’t afford a new control board. I’ve already checked the wires and the control board doesn’t have any burned marks
might be thermal sensor
I have a whirlpool gas oven that starts up the flame but shuts off in a few seconds? I changed the spark ignitor and the themo sensor/prob but still have the same issues, could it be a control board problem or maybe even a relay?
It’s hard for me to determine what the problem might be without looking at it but I don’t think it would be a relay issue. It sounds like it is a board issue.
How do you find out which one's firing in which one isn't
In my case it was a little easy because you could see burn marks.
Great tutorial. I have a RZH3-1A4-D012 relay for a Whirlpool oven. Do you have any video tutorials on how to test it with a multimeter?
Not yet
I need help. There was a lightning storm at my house. The burners on my gas stove work but oven does not. I have replaced ignitor, regulator, and temp sensor ( display was showing F3 ).
When I push button for bake it beeps and shows 3 - - -
I am at a loss. I appreciate any advise
Not knowing your model, I’m a bit at a disadvantage. But you may have taken a power surge that damaged the board (considering you already replaced the igniter).
We can help you get a replacement. 219-465-6483 :)
@@affordableappliances3082 I have decided to buy a new stove. Thanks
Great video bro!
Didn’t have any cookie dough, huh?
😂😂😂
No I didn’t. But they turned out well. Thanks for watching!
Kenmore electric wall oven control panel started making noise still heats and gets hot but noise doesn't stop its not a fan noise, I can tell it's coming from panel any info greatly appreciated
It’s difficult to say without being able to witness the machine. I would probably call a technician.
Can you post the relay number. My stove looks exactly like that one. I can't zoom in to see the relay number and the stove isn't near me, its at a different location.
Let me check
@@affordableappliances3082 thanks. It turns out the bake element was almost cracked in half. I replaced it and works great however I still have an error code F6E4 which isn't even in the manual. One RUclips said it was a control board but everything looks good and I tested all the things that were suggested. I also noted when I was in the back that there is a lonely 2 prong connector plugged into the control board and just dangling, There is absolutely nothing anywhere to connect this to. Is it a spare for a special option on the stove itself? Maybe just came with the new control board that was replaced a year ago or so?
@@affordableappliances3082 I'd love to know the relay number too. Mine just isn't readable. Thanks!
Dude You look just like Darrel Braun on RUclips expression and all haha
I’m not sure who that is but cool!
WOW! It is crazy insane. ❤️😱
We have a similar model of oven and have some experience doing desoldering, but failed to de-solder the relays. The top two pins could be desoldered, but the lower four were not able to be desoldered. One reason may have been that they are connected to large grounding pads which absorb the heat. However, we tried several approaches: 400 F soldering iron, putting more solder on to pull off what was there, and using a heat gun + soldering iron. Even cut off a relay and tried to use the soldering iron to push through the solder and wire, but no luck!
Do you have any tips for how to succeed in desoldering the old ones? Thanks!
At least with the relay that we cut off, it kind of confirmed that it was the relay that was the culprit since on the inside of the relay there was quite a bit of black.
It’s hard to say without looking at it. However, do you have a solder sucking tool?
@@affordableappliances3082 I have a similar problem with a gas stove and gas oven with a similar display the relays are located in different areas but the display buttons are the same whirlpool. Note am in Jamaica and my wife wants to bake her cakes. The display works on and off one moment it bakes and works fine the next minute it wont come on. when i just plug in the stove in the electrical the outlet the display flashes and goes off. but as i said sometimes i press the buttons and it comes and work next minutes it does not. my wife love the holidays and what to get her oven working. Is it a relay problem?
note i don't see any burn on the board or damage. am a technician so i have some ideas just not a stove specialist.
Where get the circuit breaker
You mean relay?
Hi anyone know the rellay numbers
On the replacement? They matched the one on the board. At this time I’m not sure what they were. But if you are trying to match a relay, I would match the numbers on the relay. You are trying to replace as opposed to the numbers on this relay. Your part might be different.
Im having this same problem! But sometimes my oven works. And sometimes it doesnt. One minute the small screen is displaying numbers and then we can hear a clicking sound and the small screen is blank. Would replacing the relays possibly fix our problem?
It sounds like you do have some sort of board issue. But I’m not sure if it’s the relays. Feel free to give us a call and we can maybe help you troubleshoot some more. If it’s your personal machine, it might be more efficient to just replace the board. We can help you with that.
What the hell were you soldering?
We soldered the new relay on to the board.
you skipped the clean-up of the traces
I did. It was a terrible shot.
Question; "Who's the ninja dryer and why does he watch?"
I’m not sure I understand.
IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE RELAY! Just put the red and orange wires together after cutting them and taking the wires off the board. The relay is not necessary. The stove works fine without it and if you notice on most of the newer boards, the factory did away with the relay altogether.
Seeing as we are refurbishing this machine for a potential customer, I wanted to do it as close to factory spec as possible.
I doing this for 15 years-52 years experience (bypassing the relay )
What the factory has found out is that these go out before the warranty period and it costs them money, they want it to go bad outside the warranty period (planned obsolescence) If it was necessary they would not have eliminated them in the newer versions of the board. (You find it on older GE and Frigidaire brands)All that is really needed is a bake relay and a broil relay.@@affordableappliances3082
Please explain to me. I have a relay that just went but I can't find the $10 relay and they want $450 for the board.
My broil works my bake doesn't
Sounds great. It’s important to run your business how you see best. Keep it up!
Which orange and which red?
Kick A$$!
My oven starts but when I close oven door shut down, also no light in the control panel but all burners works
Feel free to give us a call with your model number and serial number.