You are the best! My display went out and I tried the breaker, but only waited 30 seconds to turn it back on, and of course, it didn't change anything. I watched this video and went back and left it off for 5 minutes, and boom! Back in business.
Worked like a charm! Our stovetop worked, but our oven/air fryer did not (right after a split second power outage). To fix, all I did was follow these instructions (to turn off the RANGE Breaker for 5 minutes), turn it back on, then reset the clock and away we went!! THANK YOU AMRE Supply!!
The clock on our oven stopped working after a brief power outage and we had no idea how to fix it. After watching this video we tried the first solution which was to shut the power to the stove off for 5 minutes to see if it would reset and it worked like a charm. Thanks so much!
Thank you for this video. My display was only showing on the right hand side, minutes only. I had already switched the oven off at the wall switch, but that did not fix it. Switching off and on at the breaker box, actually restored the display as it should be. That has save me buying a new display, as I was sure it was broken. I am in the UK though.
Thank you for this video! I was able to diagnose the problem on a two year old Whirlpool stove from your tutorial. Ended up being a wire burned in two at the junction block.
Great vid. Ended up having to reset breaker as stove top worked but display and oven did not. Other vids said mobo had to be replaced and didn't test anything else.
Thanks for watching! Yes the control board can fail but it is always best to eliminate other problems first as its difficult to test the control board directly.
The video helped me to take on the job ,it was not the fuse or the board gone on my Ken more stove clock I pulled out bottom drawer and could not see threw a pan had went over the drawer and hooked the plug and eventually pulled the cord out enough that the display and oven would not work lesson learned don’t over fill drawer
Great video! we have an electric Whirlpool accubake oven. Now we did have some electrical issues and had all repaired. We feel that it may have shorted something out as well causing the control board to be non-operative. I have checked the thermal fuse - all ok, replaced the control board - still not working, tested the oven temperature sensor probe - reading 1098. Since the top heating element is easy to get to it does read below 20 ohms (16), also tracing the power leads from the block I did notice that the right side of the control panel (red wire) was not testing continuity. Doing some back tracing did not notice any burnt or frayed wiring. The bottom burner which is covered I was able to test and it tested good from the exterior leads. Could it be another wire that I'm missing? Don't smell anything burnt....We're getting frustrated....
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found the video helpful. If one of the wires does not have continuity, then you could try cleaning the wire terminals (any corrosion or a buildup of carbon will prevent it from working). Or in some cases you might need to install a new wire. You can also check the outlet to see if there is any issues with the incoming power or the power cord. If one line of power is out it might effect one or more functions but this depends on how your oven is wired: ruclips.net/video/wZwxewn2w44/видео.html If the control board, display, and the lights are not working, (but the stove elements work) then it's possible that there is an issue with the neutral wire. If the stove burners work then you have confirmation that you have 240V of power to the unit. The stove elements can work without a neutral.
Quick question. I ordered a whirlpool stove recently and when I plugged it in the burners worked fine but the display never turned on and I couldnt use the oven. I called them up and got a replacement stove today. Sadly Im having the same issue where the burners work but not the display and oven. Im worried this is an issue with my house or the power supply but in your video you mentioned that if the burners were getting power then the whole stove would be getting the appropriate 240 volts. Am I just unlucky having received two stoves that dont work properly or could there be another issue with my home. So far I have only tried unplugging the unit and turning off the breaker. Im hesitant on trying other trouble shooting methods at the moment as I still have access to the warranty and return. (I also dont have the multimeter for testing the fuse). Anyways great video and Im glad its been able to help out so many people.
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help! The chances of getting two new defective models is quite low but it's still possible. The control board might be in Energy Saving Mode. Check your manual for more details but the following steps might help: To Deactivate the Energy Save Mode: 1. Press and hold SETTINGS/CLOCK for 3 seconds As well it's worth trying to holding down the start or cancel buttons to see if there is any change.
One more question. Does the light inside your oven work when you open the door? Does the cooktop indicator light work when the burners are turned on? If those don't work then it could be an issue with the neutral terminal in the 240 outlet. The burners use two 120v lines and don't require a neutral to function. It's possible to have working burners but no lights, or display. If you get a multimeter you can do some further tests: ruclips.net/video/wZwxewn2w44/видео.html
everything looks normal inside the stove but I think I put it back together wrong cause now the burners will come on for a second and then shut back off, issue was having was the top part comes on but the display/oven doesn't, no issue with breaker box so I figured it has to be the stove itself. Guess I'm gonna have to save up for a professional, thank you for the video though
Thanks for watching. In most cases, the stove is wired independently from the control board. The burners are controlled by an infinite heat switch. If the burners heat up when you turn on the heat switches, then you have the full 240V of power. Check all the connections to the control board and make sure they are secure. If it still doesn't work, then you might need to install a new control board.
I have a gas maytag similar to the one in video. My dashboard went out and wont come back on. The top works without a problem and the light in the oven comes one. Any recommendations on problem?
Thanks for watching. For display issues, you'll follow the same steps in a gas oven as you would with a electric oven. Control boards are similar so you are checking for any issues with a fuse or power before replacing the control board itself.
Thanks for watching. Testing voltage is not something that we cover in our videos just because of the additional safety concerns. These are techniques used by technicians and often best saved for those who have the knowledge and skill to do so.
Stove worked fine daylight savings time my husband went to reset the time and started holding down buttons now the display shuts off every five minutes but will come back on when you push the button showing the correct time but then goes off again within the next five minutes. Did he accidentally lock something or is it in what they call a demo mode?
Hi Susan, thank you for watching. It's hard to know as different models have different modes which are all accessed in various ways. Best to unplug or disconnect the power at the breaker for 5 minutes to do a hard reset. See if the problem still persists after setting the clock then. As well holding down "cancel" or "clear" for 10 seconds can also help reset a particular mode. Hope this helps!
@@AmreSupply thanks I figured it out early this morning. My husband went to set the time for daylight savings time and he was holding down some buttons. I just did what he did figured it would do the opposite and it did. I went back to clock scrolled through set the clock again. Hit start. Everything's fine now :-) thank you
Thanks for watching. If the button is broken then you might have to replace the control board: ruclips.net/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/видео.html Some models will have a separate keypad that can be replaced without having to replace the control board. This is less common though. You can search for you model here to see what sort of control board you'll need: www.amresupply.com/lookup
Thanks for watching, and sorry for the delayed response. If the display is black and you've checked the thermal fuse (if you have one) then it could be a faulty control board. You can see how to replace this in this video: ruclips.net/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/видео.html
Mainteguy repkaced the control panel on my GE stove, but we're getting a garbage error message that looks like SEt. We did the power reset and he checked the plug (i dont know about the thermal fuse) and e decided we got a faulty control panel.im just hoping there's something we've overlooked so thanksgiving isnt ruined. There's no time to get a new part by Thursday. If it were the thermal fuse, would we get the display at all? My burners never stopped working, but this display seemed like it couldn't decide if it wanted to work or not before finally going out. It would go out, come back on in 3 minutes, work for 2 days, go out, come on. when it croaked for good, nobody was using it. I put a pan on the stov
Thanks for watching. Doesn't seem to be much info on a SEt error code. The fact that the stove burners still work, shows that the 240V power to your range is still good. If you have a multimeter you can still test a few things. You can test the wires between the terminal block and the control board to make sure that the 120V supply to the board is still good. If you wiggle the wire and it loses continuity, then the wire should be replaced. Look for any burn marks or pinched wires. Check all the connections to the control board. Not all ovens have a thermal fuse or a limit switch (so if yours has one you can check it) a faulty thermal fuse is normally just connected to the heating elements but in some cases it might be wired differently.
Hello, all functions on my oven work... except the bake option. When I push bake theres no display, nothing happens at all. I changed the control panel, that didnt work.
Thanks, but this did not fix the problem. I have replaced a switch on the stove but the (cooktop on /hot switch) will not go off even flipping the switch at the breaker does not work. All other buttons work on the stove. bake, broil, pizza, lasanga. any ideas. this is a whirlpool stove that is about a year old.
Thanks for watching. If your stove has separate heat switches for the stove burners then it won't be an issue with the control board itself. Disconnecting power at the breaker or unplugging the oven should turn off the light, as the light is powered by one 120V line and will also be connected to the neutral line. The oven should have a double breaker as it will have two 120V lines of power for the oven elements and the stove elements. It is possible you only turned off one line of power. The "hot surface light" can stay when there is a faulty limiter on one of the heating elements: ruclips.net/video/CXhmlswg30Y/видео.html Alternatively the "cooktop indicator light" or power indicator light, can stay on when there is a stuck contact in one of the heat switches: ruclips.net/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/видео.html
when plugged in, used 4 wire cord replaced 3 wire - power at receptacle. turn the knob on for a unit, display says PF, the clock will set, no unit heat. turn off the unit, it is black. What could this be? could the cord be the problem?
Thanks for watching. Are you saying that your range originally had a 3 wire cord and you replaced the power cord with a 4 wire cord? Or are you saying that your outlet in the wall now has 4 terminals instead of the original 3?
I am getting a PF error on all my 4 burners and nothing on my center panel. They error shows for 15 seconds then everything dies out. It is a glass top frigidaire 10 year old stove. Help please
Thanks for watching. PF would indicate a power failure. Do your stovetop elements use separate heat switches or are they operated through the control board? If all 4 burners aren't working and you have no display, then it's likely an issue with 1 line of power. This video can help you test: ruclips.net/video/wZwxewn2w44/видео.html
Hi Nora, thank you for watching. If part of the display isn't working then you'll have to replace the control board. This repair is pretty simple, you can see more here: ruclips.net/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/видео.html As well to find out what control board you'll need, enter your oven model number on the search on amresupply.com
Mine doesn't seem to have any power to the display, therefore I can't use the oven. The ignitors don't strike either. We have to manually light the stove with a lighter.
Thanks for watching. If there is no power to the range at all (no indicator lights, no ignitor for the gas burners etc) then it could be an issue with the incoming power, the power cord or the wires: ruclips.net/video/wZwxewn2w44/видео.html
@@AmreSupply I plugged it up to the outlet I knew worked, then turned the breaker to it off then on, and it works now. This house has been empty for awhile but an elderly man lived here before but was hospitalized and now in a nursing home. I knew it had to work. Now I'm working on the fridge. Nasty!
North America for example, uses 120V AC power at a basic outlet (which is often actually between 110 and 120V) Residential homes actually are connected to 240V through two 120V lines each out of phase with each other. Dryer and oven outlets will have a double breaker which has a connection on each of the 120V lines. This is alternating current, and when one line is at +120V, the other line will be -120 volts. When you connect them to a heating element, one side is pushing and the other side is pulling, the additive effect is 240 volts. This is explained in more detail in this video: ruclips.net/video/fJeRabV5hNU/видео.html
Why when i hook up the 2 hot and a ground #6 the display gone on my stove and why i use the #8 with 2 hot and a ground it display the screen but wont turn on oven. Pls somebody help me thanks
Thanks for watching. Not sure what sort of control board you have. When replacing the board its best to use the existing wires if possible installing them in the same connectors as before. The control board should have a hot and neutral wire to run the board functions correctly. The ground wire is normally green and connected to the metal frame. Two hot lines will be connected for the oven heating elements to work. The stove elements are not usually controlled by the control board and are normally controlled by separate heat switches. These also require two lines of power to heat correctly.
Thanks for watching. If there's a ticking noise then that indicates that there might be a bad connection between some of the wires. It also could be a bad relay on the control board.
Thanks for watching. We have a video that shows how to test the outlet and power cord to see if they are both good: ruclips.net/video/wZwxewn2w44/видео.html
If the display and oven don't work but the gas burners work, then it's likely an issue with the control board or the incoming power to the control board. The gas burners are not connected to the control board and are unaffected by any display issues.
Thanks for watching. We are based in Canada. AMRE Supply has a selection of repair parts available but for further help in person, you'll have to contact a local appliance technician.
Thanks for watching. There's more information of the PSH or P5H error code on the Whirlpool website: producthelp.whirlpool.com/Cooking/Wall_Ovens_and_Ranges/Electric_Ranges/Error_Codes/Error_Code%2C_Fault_Code_or_Message__-Oven_Control/PUSH_or_PSH/PUSH_or_PSH-__Electric_Range Additionally you can try setting the clock as this might be holding up the rest of the functions
Thanks for watching. If the burners work, then you've verified that your oven is getting 240V of power. It could be a faulty control board or failed thermal fuse.
Thanks for watching. When you check continuity, you are checking to see if there is a continuous path for electricity to flow through. This is not a live voltage test and a continuity test should be done with the power disconnected. If you're curious, this video helps explain these principles and the settings of a multimeter in more detail: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
@@grbarnes Thanks we're glad you found it helpful. We only have that one video on digital multimeters. For analog, the principles are the same. Set the meter to the ohms or resistance setting. You'll need a low setting so a R X1 or a under 20 ohm range depending on how it's listed. When the probes are not touching anything it will show "infinite" resistance as air has an extremely high resistance cannot be measured by the meter. The needle will move when you connect it to something that has resistance. For a continuity test of a wire you'll get a resistance between 0 and 1 ohms. If the needle does not move and still shows infinity, then there is no continuity and the component or wire will not work.
Thanks for watching. When it comes to control boards it is often just easier to replace the whole board. We decided to focus most of our repair videos in this series the other main components, the heat switches, heating elements fuses etc that can be easily tested and verified.
@@AmreSupply I know its easier. I just wish the trades would dabble into pcb component board repair. Its well within any appliance repair mans ability. Replacing an emtire board due to a 50 cent part is just crazy.
@@MA_KA_PA_TIE You're right that it's a great skill to have but unfortunately it is something that someone would have to learn on their own. In the case of a faulty relay then it's a more straight forward fix. There are cases where after blowing a fuse, more than one component is damaged in the board and this takes more time to narrow down. I think with many repairs it's always a balance of time, certainty and cost. A new board is more expensive but takes very little time to install, and there is full certainty that it will work.
@@MA_KA_PA_TIE I would have replaced my board if they weren't discontinued. Ended up having to replace capacitors for the voltage doubler for the VFD. I would have preferred to just replace the whole board instead of reinventing the wheel to be honest.
@@SadUncleTed capacitors are literally consumables in electronics. They will go bad inevitably unless you replace them with ceramic multi layer capacitors. It's the same concept as replacing an entire Hvac system for a clogged air filter. Consumables must be replaced, doesn't mean the whole machine is busted. But like I said board level repair is a massive gap in the average repair man's repertoire. I even had a plumber say to me once he needs a nerd to fix a board for him, I then asked him why is a guy a nerd for fixing a board but he is not a nerd for fixing a pipe? It's all just repair. Find what is causing the problem and remove what is busted and apply the fix.
Thanks for watching. There's more information of the PSH or P5H error code on the Whirlpool website: producthelp.whirlpool.com/Cooking/Wall_Ovens_and_Ranges/Electric_Ranges/Error_Codes/Error_Code%2C_Fault_Code_or_Message__-Oven_Control/PUSH_or_PSH/PUSH_or_PSH-__Electric_Range Additionally you can try setting the clock as this might be holding up the rest of the functions
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Did this video help you troubleshoot your oven? Did you run into any hurdles? Let us know in the comments!
You are the best! My display went out and I tried the breaker, but only waited 30 seconds to turn it back on, and of course, it didn't change anything. I watched this video and went back and left it off for 5 minutes, and boom! Back in business.
Thank you for sharing, we're glad that it's working now!
Worked like a charm! Our stovetop worked, but our oven/air fryer did not (right after a split second power outage). To fix, all I did was follow these instructions (to turn off the RANGE Breaker for 5 minutes), turn it back on, then reset the clock and away we went!! THANK YOU AMRE Supply!!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
I'm trying mine now we ll see if it works
You're a very good teacher - thanks for the video!
You're welcome, we're just happy that between Vance and our video team we are able to create tutorials that are easy to follow and helpful for people!
The reset worked! Now I have a clock/display on my Westinghouse oven again. Thank you.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
The resetting of the breaker did the job! Thank you!
You're welcome, we're just glad to have helped!
Thank you! Turning the power off and on after 5 min worked.
You're welcome Paul, we're glad that it was an easy fix!
The clock on our oven stopped working after a brief power outage and we had no idea how to fix it. After watching this video we tried the first solution which was to shut the power to the stove off for 5 minutes to see if it would reset and it worked like a charm. Thanks so much!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thanks! Turning off the fuse for five minutes did the trick. What a relief!
You're welcome, we're glad that the video helped you out!
Thank you for this video. My display was only showing on the right hand side, minutes only. I had already switched the oven off at the wall switch, but that did not fix it. Switching off and on at the breaker box, actually restored the display as it should be. That has save me buying a new display, as I was sure it was broken. I am in the UK though.
You're welcome, we're just glad the video helped you out!
Thank you it worked for me , I just held the clock button and now I'm able to bake thanks 😊😊😊
You are welcome!
Very well done video. Thanks!
You're welcome!!
Thank you for this video!
I was able to diagnose the problem on a two year old Whirlpool stove from your tutorial.
Ended up being a wire burned in two at the junction block.
You're welcome Chris, we're glad that the video helped you narrow down the problem!
Just found my burned wires, you made my day!
Perfect it worked great thanks for your help
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Yes! very helpful. Although it didn't require any parts, I have your web site book marked for any future purchases.
Thank you Chris, we're glad that the video helped you and we're grateful for your support!
Perfect, thank you!
You're welcome!
Ty so much
You're very welcome!
Great vid. Ended up having to reset breaker as stove top worked but display and oven did not. Other vids said mobo had to be replaced and didn't test anything else.
Thanks for watching! Yes the control board can fail but it is always best to eliminate other problems first as its difficult to test the control board directly.
Pressing the clock button worked for me
We're glad to hear that it helped!
The video helped me to take on the job ,it was not the fuse or the board gone on my Ken more stove clock I pulled out bottom drawer and could not see threw a pan had went over the drawer and hooked the plug and eventually pulled the cord out enough that the display and oven would not work lesson learned don’t over fill drawer
Thank you for sharing your experience! We're glad that the video helped you narrow down the problem!
Great video! we have an electric Whirlpool accubake oven. Now we did have some electrical issues and had all repaired. We feel that it may have shorted something out as well causing the control board to be non-operative. I have checked the thermal fuse - all ok, replaced the control board - still not working, tested the oven temperature sensor probe - reading 1098. Since the top heating element is easy to get to it does read below 20 ohms (16), also tracing the power leads from the block I did notice that the right side of the control panel (red wire) was not testing continuity. Doing some back tracing did not notice any burnt or frayed wiring. The bottom burner which is covered I was able to test and it tested good from the exterior leads. Could it be another wire that I'm missing? Don't smell anything burnt....We're getting frustrated....
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found the video helpful. If one of the wires does not have continuity, then you could try cleaning the wire terminals (any corrosion or a buildup of carbon will prevent it from working). Or in some cases you might need to install a new wire.
You can also check the outlet to see if there is any issues with the incoming power or the power cord. If one line of power is out it might effect one or more functions but this depends on how your oven is wired: ruclips.net/video/wZwxewn2w44/видео.html
If the control board, display, and the lights are not working, (but the stove elements work) then it's possible that there is an issue with the neutral wire. If the stove burners work then you have confirmation that you have 240V of power to the unit. The stove elements can work without a neutral.
Quick question. I ordered a whirlpool stove recently and when I plugged it in the burners worked fine but the display never turned on and I couldnt use the oven. I called them up and got a replacement stove today. Sadly Im having the same issue where the burners work but not the display and oven. Im worried this is an issue with my house or the power supply but in your video you mentioned that if the burners were getting power then the whole stove would be getting the appropriate 240 volts. Am I just unlucky having received two stoves that dont work properly or could there be another issue with my home. So far I have only tried unplugging the unit and turning off the breaker. Im hesitant on trying other trouble shooting methods at the moment as I still have access to the warranty and return. (I also dont have the multimeter for testing the fuse). Anyways great video and Im glad its been able to help out so many people.
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help! The chances of getting two new defective models is quite low but it's still possible.
The control board might be in Energy Saving Mode. Check your manual for more details but the following steps might help:
To Deactivate the Energy Save Mode: 1. Press and hold SETTINGS/CLOCK for 3 seconds
As well it's worth trying to holding down the start or cancel buttons to see if there is any change.
One more question. Does the light inside your oven work when you open the door? Does the cooktop indicator light work when the burners are turned on?
If those don't work then it could be an issue with the neutral terminal in the 240 outlet. The burners use two 120v lines and don't require a neutral to function. It's possible to have working burners but no lights, or display.
If you get a multimeter you can do some further tests: ruclips.net/video/wZwxewn2w44/видео.html
everything looks normal inside the stove but I think I put it back together wrong cause now the burners will come on for a second and then shut back off, issue was having was the top part comes on but the display/oven doesn't, no issue with breaker box so I figured it has to be the stove itself. Guess I'm gonna have to save up for a professional, thank you for the video though
Thanks for watching. In most cases, the stove is wired independently from the control board. The burners are controlled by an infinite heat switch. If the burners heat up when you turn on the heat switches, then you have the full 240V of power. Check all the connections to the control board and make sure they are secure. If it still doesn't work, then you might need to install a new control board.
I have a gas maytag similar to the one in video. My dashboard went out and wont come back on. The top works without a problem and the light in the oven comes one. Any recommendations on problem?
Thanks for watching. For display issues, you'll follow the same steps in a gas oven as you would with a electric oven. Control boards are similar so you are checking for any issues with a fuse or power before replacing the control board itself.
Can we test if the control board is getting voltage by measuring on the live and neutral terminal
Thanks for watching. Testing voltage is not something that we cover in our videos just because of the additional safety concerns. These are techniques used by technicians and often best saved for those who have the knowledge and skill to do so.
Is there a video showing how to replace the wiring harnes? I cant find one anywhere.
Thanks for watching. No we don't have a specific video on replacing the wiring harness.
Stove worked fine daylight savings time my husband went to reset the time and started holding down buttons now the display shuts off every five minutes but will come back on when you push the button showing the correct time but then goes off again within the next five minutes. Did he accidentally lock something or is it in what they call a demo mode?
Hi Susan, thank you for watching. It's hard to know as different models have different modes which are all accessed in various ways. Best to unplug or disconnect the power at the breaker for 5 minutes to do a hard reset. See if the problem still persists after setting the clock then. As well holding down "cancel" or "clear" for 10 seconds can also help reset a particular mode. Hope this helps!
@@AmreSupply thanks I figured it out early this morning. My husband went to set the time for daylight savings time and he was holding down some buttons. I just did what he did figured it would do the opposite and it did. I went back to clock scrolled through set the clock again. Hit start. Everything's fine now :-) thank you
@@MC1RPOSITIVESusieQ We're glad to hear that it's all working again! Cheers!
Our temp/kitchen timer button is only half broken. If I preheat the oven, it automatically starts at 350. I can go down from there, but not up.
Thanks for watching. If the button is broken then you might have to replace the control board: ruclips.net/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/видео.html
Some models will have a separate keypad that can be replaced without having to replace the control board. This is less common though.
You can search for you model here to see what sort of control board you'll need: www.amresupply.com/lookup
My display lost a lot of the lights to where you can’t read anything. It did this from running a cleaning cycle. Heat caused something to happen.
Thanks for watching, and sorry for the delayed response. If the display is black and you've checked the thermal fuse (if you have one) then it could be a faulty control board. You can see how to replace this in this video: ruclips.net/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/видео.html
Why would the temperature get too high? Temp control? please advise.
Thanks for watching. This other video shows how to troubleshoot an oven that is overheating: ruclips.net/video/10ezc3LNQP4/видео.html
Mainteguy repkaced the control panel on my GE stove, but we're getting a garbage error message that looks like SEt. We did the power reset and he checked the plug (i dont know about the thermal fuse) and e decided we got a faulty control panel.im just hoping there's something we've overlooked so thanksgiving isnt ruined. There's no time to get a new part by Thursday. If it were the thermal fuse, would we get the display at all? My burners never stopped working, but this display seemed like it couldn't decide if it wanted to work or not before finally going out. It would go out, come back on in 3 minutes, work for 2 days, go out, come on. when it croaked for good, nobody was using it. I put a pan on the stov
Thanks for watching. Doesn't seem to be much info on a SEt error code. The fact that the stove burners still work, shows that the 240V power to your range is still good. If you have a multimeter you can still test a few things. You can test the wires between the terminal block and the control board to make sure that the 120V supply to the board is still good. If you wiggle the wire and it loses continuity, then the wire should be replaced. Look for any burn marks or pinched wires.
Check all the connections to the control board.
Not all ovens have a thermal fuse or a limit switch (so if yours has one you can check it) a faulty thermal fuse is normally just connected to the heating elements but in some cases it might be wired differently.
@@AmreSupply thank you so much!!! Lousy timing for the oven to crap out.
Hello, all functions on my oven work... except the bake option. When I push bake theres no display, nothing happens at all. I changed the control panel, that didnt work.
Thanks for watching. Does your oven have a separate keypad which is a different piece than the control board?
Thanks, but this did not fix the problem. I have replaced a switch on the stove but the (cooktop on /hot switch) will not go off even flipping the switch at the breaker does not work. All other buttons work on the stove. bake, broil, pizza, lasanga.
any ideas. this is a whirlpool stove that is about a year old.
Thanks for watching. If your stove has separate heat switches for the stove burners then it won't be an issue with the control board itself.
Disconnecting power at the breaker or unplugging the oven should turn off the light, as the light is powered by one 120V line and will also be connected to the neutral line. The oven should have a double breaker as it will have two 120V lines of power for the oven elements and the stove elements. It is possible you only turned off one line of power.
The "hot surface light" can stay when there is a faulty limiter on one of the heating elements: ruclips.net/video/CXhmlswg30Y/видео.html
Alternatively the "cooktop indicator light" or power indicator light, can stay on when there is a stuck contact in one of the heat switches: ruclips.net/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/видео.html
when plugged in, used 4 wire cord replaced 3 wire - power at receptacle. turn the knob on for a unit, display says PF, the clock will set, no unit heat. turn off the unit, it is black. What could this be? could the cord be the problem?
Thanks for watching. Are you saying that your range originally had a 3 wire cord and you replaced the power cord with a 4 wire cord?
Or are you saying that your outlet in the wall now has 4 terminals instead of the original 3?
I am getting a PF error on all my 4 burners and nothing on my center panel. They error shows for 15 seconds then everything dies out. It is a glass top frigidaire 10 year old stove. Help please
Thanks for watching. PF would indicate a power failure. Do your stovetop elements use separate heat switches or are they operated through the control board?
If all 4 burners aren't working and you have no display, then it's likely an issue with 1 line of power. This video can help you test: ruclips.net/video/wZwxewn2w44/видео.html
What if only have of the display is working? I can only see the last two digits on the display.
Hi Nora, thank you for watching. If part of the display isn't working then you'll have to replace the control board. This repair is pretty simple, you can see more here: ruclips.net/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/видео.html As well to find out what control board you'll need, enter your oven model number on the search on amresupply.com
Mine doesn't seem to have any power to the display, therefore I can't use the oven. The ignitors don't strike either. We have to manually light the stove with a lighter.
Thanks for watching. If there is no power to the range at all (no indicator lights, no ignitor for the gas burners etc) then it could be an issue with the incoming power, the power cord or the wires: ruclips.net/video/wZwxewn2w44/видео.html
@@AmreSupply I plugged it up to the outlet I knew worked, then turned the breaker to it off then on, and it works now. This house has been empty for awhile but an elderly man lived here before but was hospitalized and now in a nursing home. I knew it had to work. Now I'm working on the fridge. Nasty!
@@TinaTom Thank you for the update. We're glad that it's working now.
240 V AC. In this country we have 110V AC. Can you explain how this is possible?
North America for example, uses 120V AC power at a basic outlet (which is often actually between 110 and 120V) Residential homes actually are connected to 240V through two 120V lines each out of phase with each other. Dryer and oven outlets will have a double breaker which has a connection on each of the 120V lines. This is alternating current, and when one line is at +120V, the other line will be -120 volts. When you connect them to a heating element, one side is pushing and the other side is pulling, the additive effect is 240 volts. This is explained in more detail in this video: ruclips.net/video/fJeRabV5hNU/видео.html
Simple you run 110 on each side of the plug.. runs ac. Stove. Dryers..
Why when i hook up the 2 hot and a ground #6 the display gone on my stove and why i use the #8 with 2 hot and a ground it display the screen but wont turn on oven. Pls somebody help me thanks
Thanks for watching. Not sure what sort of control board you have. When replacing the board its best to use the existing wires if possible installing them in the same connectors as before. The control board should have a hot and neutral wire to run the board functions correctly. The ground wire is normally green and connected to the metal frame. Two hot lines will be connected for the oven heating elements to work. The stove elements are not usually controlled by the control board and are normally controlled by separate heat switches. These also require two lines of power to heat correctly.
Oven read error codes I power off circuit breaker now oven won't come back on just a ticking noise help please
Thanks for watching. If there's a ticking noise then that indicates that there might be a bad connection between some of the wires. It also could be a bad relay on the control board.
How far above the floor is the thermal fuse?
Thanks for watching. For models that use a thermal use it is usually about 12 inches above the floor.
Changing heating element forgot to unplug tripped breaker finished repair rest breaker now no power to clock?
Thanks for watching. We have a video that shows how to test the outlet and power cord to see if they are both good: ruclips.net/video/wZwxewn2w44/видео.html
😌 Now all is well
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
I have a gas whirlpool now display and oven dont work but burers work
If the display and oven don't work but the gas burners work, then it's likely an issue with the control board or the incoming power to the control board. The gas burners are not connected to the control board and are unaffected by any display issues.
What is an E1 F5 warning
Thanks for watching. An E1 F5 error code may be a problem with the Main Oven Door Latch Assembly, the Door Switch, or the associated wiring.
Do you live in NYC? If you do please let me know how I can contact you. Oven display is not working
Thanks for watching. We are based in Canada. AMRE Supply has a selection of repair parts available but for further help in person, you'll have to contact a local appliance technician.
Board shows PSH in whirpol stove
Thanks for watching. There's more information of the PSH or P5H error code on the Whirlpool website: producthelp.whirlpool.com/Cooking/Wall_Ovens_and_Ranges/Electric_Ranges/Error_Codes/Error_Code%2C_Fault_Code_or_Message__-Oven_Control/PUSH_or_PSH/PUSH_or_PSH-__Electric_Range
Additionally you can try setting the clock as this might be holding up the rest of the functions
What type of repair person do I hire?
Thanks for watching. An appliance repair technician will be able to diagnose and fix the problem.
Oven dosent work but the burners work just fine… oven control oanel does not turn on
Thanks for watching. If the burners work, then you've verified that your oven is getting 240V of power. It could be a faulty control board or failed thermal fuse.
Probably a dumb question here: Can I check continuity if it's unplugged?
Thanks for watching. When you check continuity, you are checking to see if there is a continuous path for electricity to flow through. This is not a live voltage test and a continuity test should be done with the power disconnected. If you're curious, this video helps explain these principles and the settings of a multimeter in more detail: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
@@AmreSupply Thank you, very helpful. Do you have a video on using an analog multimeter?
@@grbarnes Thanks we're glad you found it helpful. We only have that one video on digital multimeters. For analog, the principles are the same.
Set the meter to the ohms or resistance setting. You'll need a low setting so a R X1 or a under 20 ohm range depending on how it's listed.
When the probes are not touching anything it will show "infinite" resistance as air has an extremely high resistance cannot be measured by the meter. The needle will move when you connect it to something that has resistance.
For a continuity test of a wire you'll get a resistance between 0 and 1 ohms.
If the needle does not move and still shows infinity, then there is no continuity and the component or wire will not work.
@@AmreSupply Thank you. Very helpful!
@@grbarnes You're welcome!! Cheers
I like how component level board repair is apparently magic to everyone who fixes appliances. What a massive gap in knowledge.
Thanks for watching. When it comes to control boards it is often just easier to replace the whole board. We decided to focus most of our repair videos in this series the other main components, the heat switches, heating elements fuses etc that can be easily tested and verified.
@@AmreSupply I know its easier. I just wish the trades would dabble into pcb component board repair. Its well within any appliance repair mans ability. Replacing an emtire board due to a 50 cent part is just crazy.
@@MA_KA_PA_TIE You're right that it's a great skill to have but unfortunately it is something that someone would have to learn on their own. In the case of a faulty relay then it's a more straight forward fix. There are cases where after blowing a fuse, more than one component is damaged in the board and this takes more time to narrow down. I think with many repairs it's always a balance of time, certainty and cost. A new board is more expensive but takes very little time to install, and there is full certainty that it will work.
@@MA_KA_PA_TIE I would have replaced my board if they weren't discontinued. Ended up having to replace capacitors for the voltage doubler for the VFD. I would have preferred to just replace the whole board instead of reinventing the wheel to be honest.
@@SadUncleTed capacitors are literally consumables in electronics. They will go bad inevitably unless you replace them with ceramic multi layer capacitors. It's the same concept as replacing an entire Hvac system for a clogged air filter. Consumables must be replaced, doesn't mean the whole machine is busted.
But like I said board level repair is a massive gap in the average repair man's repertoire. I even had a plumber say to me once he needs a nerd to fix a board for him, I then asked him why is a guy a nerd for fixing a board but he is not a nerd for fixing a pipe? It's all just repair. Find what is causing the problem and remove what is busted and apply the fix.
Burners work,but oven doesnt,scren in board shows PSh
push
Thanks for watching. There's more information of the PSH or P5H error code on the Whirlpool website: producthelp.whirlpool.com/Cooking/Wall_Ovens_and_Ranges/Electric_Ranges/Error_Codes/Error_Code%2C_Fault_Code_or_Message__-Oven_Control/PUSH_or_PSH/PUSH_or_PSH-__Electric_Range
Additionally you can try setting the clock as this might be holding up the rest of the functions
Nice hair.
Thank you