I'm a retired engineer (which I know, may not mean anything) - but just wanted to say "thanks" - an excellent video, very helpful. Gave me the courage to fix my gas oven made back in the early 1980's.
You're absolutely right Chris, no one but you have ever mentioned that little button/switch to check! Also, what a great idea to check the gas flow before the igniter to eliminate both the igniter and the gas valve for possible blockage. No gas going in, certainly nothing coming out! You gave me the encouragement needed to do those steps now! Great job, bro
THANK YOU CHRIS! Bought 2 igniters and a mother board. Paid 35$ to talk to a 44 year ge technician and thus was my problem. I spent 2 weeks with a multi meter and wiring diagram but once I found your video I'm now about to use my 8 month old oven i spent 2k on.
Watching your video, brand new gas range stopped oven and broiler from heating. Testing everything.Ran across your video ,bled gas line at gas safety valve. And giddi up, everything started to work. I think that it was a airlock in the main gas valve. Thanks for showing, what you did. 👍👍
THANK YOU Chris! I was about to order a new igniter and get my friend to replace it (which would have been a waste of time) and I saw your video, checked the gas regulator and, sure enough, that was the problem! And just before baking holiday cookies--oh noooo! I appreciate you!
I replaced my glow bars a few years ago because oven wasn't holding temperature. Today, it wouldn't light at all. This was my exact problem. Oven works now. I have no idea how the lever flipped. I just used it last night. I didn't move anything. Thank you for saving me hours. And I was ready to go to Lowe's and buy a new oven!
Hey Chris I want to thank you for your video, I’m an ex appliance tech, and you are so right about this, more than once I saw this issue with the gas off which it is actually a gas regulator, but when I saw it off, I explained it to the customer and leaving just charging the customer a house call with no labor charge, thanks again for the video, and good luck with your business, have a good day.😀
Thanks I have been Troubleshooting my Whirlpool Oven replacing parts because PEOPLE didn’t know what they were talking about until you showed the Gas valve. I turned it on and my stove is working. THANK YOU VERY MUCH CHRIS fir your help I missed cooking my meals.
Got a new used stove. Top burners worked. Oven and broiler didn't. Checked everything and thought I might need new igniters or who knows what. Turns out the hidden shut off switch was engaged. 😅 No video EVER said to check and make sure that was the problem.
Thank you! And that's why I always watch a couple of different videos on the same problem. It was the safety switch. I have a brand new gas oven, never used. The range worked, but not the oven. I guess that switch was left closed from the manufacturer. Thank you! I was getting pretty angry thinking I'd have to get a new part or return the stove.
This video was way WAY above my level of understanding. Unfortunately, I can see I’m gonna have to pay somebody to come out here and rip me off to fix my oven.
lmao, Im about there. Just replaced an igniter for it to fry 3 minutes into test run. Ordered a replacment and if this one shits the bed on arrival I guess its something else.
Very practical and detailed video. Thanks for sharing this information. Maybe you should start your own appliance repair business. Gotta love an everyman's video for DIY repair and troubleshooting.
Bro, man, you explained how the metals contract and open and close the valved! That was so cool and helpful in understanding the system and what makes it work, or what makes it fail. Watching your video could actually bring up a persons IQ! Thank you I'm writing this on Thanksgiving as I realize my oven isn't working. I Don't have the little safety valve on my 1980's model Frigidaire, but still appreciating your video. I hope it the thermostat, cause I have another one, if it's the igniter...I'm going to have to bar b que the dang turkey, and we will be eating around 10 p.m. Wish us luck. Maybe we could do turkey tomorrow and just have sides today.... Whoa, the family is in outright rebellion on that idea. Wish me luck.
Great video! This was the only one that said anything about the Safety Valve let alone the pressure switch you have. What's weird with mine is the bottom igniter lights but no gas/flame. Put it on Broil, igniter lights and I get a half of a flame and the igniter stays on. Stove top works fine.
Thanks for the video. My problem happened during a power failure and I was running off a generator. The igniter was turning on, but the valve wasn't opening. Turns out the generator was over-loaded and not putting out high enough voltage. When I turned everything off except the stove, it worked fine.
Great video, I will check that safety switch, my burners are working, but the oven is not lighting. I just bought a new oven temperature probe. It's h8t and miss till I find the culprit. Thank you😊
Well I may have sent a stove to the graveyard prematurely last week. Wish I had this knowledge then! I’m not an appliance tech, but because of my experience I get asked to look at many things when doing repairs on rental properties. One of my property managers just picked up a bunch of houses with gas stoves, so I’m trying to educate myself.
Omg I'll be a SOB. I just watched all those videos for the last week or so. Replaced the regulator which for some reason was leaking. My thermostat, control board, and safety valve. I was fed up today about ready to throw out the door and just found your video. Thanks for the tip. Oh well I guess I should get another 9 years out of this one with new parts. 😅😂
@@chriscraft2 Nice! I might be getting mine this weekend. I was watching alot of your Datsun and other car vidoes the past couple weeks. When I searched "Gas oven wont heat up" I laughed to myself when I saw you as the top result.
Excellent analysis. I would like to add a little. The ignitor and safety gas valve are in series. Electrically the sizing of these, as a pair is critical in that the ignitor must be hot enough to ignite the gas and and the heating of the safety valve must be enough to open and hold open the valve. In other words a matched pair. If there is a mismatch you will have no ignition or no gas. Some manufactures have a poor match, This is more likely a problem if a UNIVERSAL ignitor is used as the resistance of the ignitor can be unpredictable.
I actually knew about that valve ..when it's no longer under gas pressure I think it trips itself..love your videos .. unfortunately it didn't solve my problem ..
No, if you can see there is two valves, one goes left and up and the other one top right. The left to top goes to your burners and your top right goes to your oven. Separate lines
ours is only 3 ish years old, and for the last probably 6 months to a year the oven wont ignite unless i turn one of the burners on and let it run a few seconds, and then the oven will preheat, but i have to check it cuz sometimes ill have to do it again or the food wont continue to bake
So I have a Samsung that usually goes from cold to hot (0-400°F) in 12 minutes. Now it just stays at 175°F and doesn’t move. Is it the igniter maybe there’s a safety switch with the new or Samsung’s work? It won’t allow gas to the oven as a safety measure in the igniter? It’s a newer Samsung gas oven with the blue digital display
Hello bro! I had the same problem. You are the only person in the entire world probably showed this video. My safety clip probably got knocked out when it was morning or transporting. Now it works but I am still having problems with the safety values remaining on after the oven is switched off
I'm thinking he doesn't understand why it tripped in the first place since he didn't know it even existed. I'm having the same problem and I definitely hesitate to override the safety feature, especially if it keeps tripping, you're messing with gas supply and an open flame.
great vid!! thanks. I have an LG gas oven. The stove and top burners all work fine. The Broiler (with new igniter now and glows HOT) comes on but has a weak gas flow/small flames, they flicker on and off. and I have adjusted the air/fuel mixer to be about in the middle. I have continuity on both sides of my dual safety valve, very low ohms. any ideas??? THANKS !
Nice work! My broiler works, but the oven "bake" burner only makes a tiny flame. I tapped on the burner and it worked normally, but on re-testing it's back to a small flame. I'm guessing something is wrong with the gas regulator.
During a lightning storm my whirlpool gas oven got hit. I have replaced the ignitor, temp sensor and still no heat in oven. Ignitor won't light at all. The gas line is very short so getting behind stove is only possible for a leprechaun. The broil doesn't work either. Only top burners. I would greatly appreciate some advise on what my next step should be. The model # WFG114SWQ1
Yes hi Chris I have a Frigidaire gas stove with electric motors my oven will not come on neither will the broader boiler so I changed out the igniter but it’s still not doing anything thanks for your video but can you tell me which direction the safety switch on the regular gas regulator which way it goes in any more thoughts on how I can check things I’m a dummy broad thanks, Chris
You seriously just saved me $250 repairbuilt which I was gonna show the dam of an hour and just buy a new one. A flip and switch. I am so upset at this repair guy
Put an amp probe on one side of the igniter and turn the oven on. If the igniter glows and draws 3 Amps your igniter is good if you’re drawing less than 3 Amps you have a bad igniter
I'm curious, did your broiler light also? I know the top burners did. My oven won't come on, but the stove top and even the broiler works. Just not the oven/baking portion. Thank you for this video. Last time we called someone who charged $200 and found that he pushed a reset button. So thank you.
Thanks Chris you were spot on!!! It was just my igniter. I did all the tests with my volt meter and you were spot on!!! Wish more videos were this spot on!!!
I replace those safety valves rather often actually. Robert Shaw has a monopoly on them so no incentive to make them more robust. The igniter should read ~50-100 Ω when cold. It's resistance increases with heat, self limiting the current as it operates. Only when it's already glowing cherry hot would I expect a 300+ Ω reading. If igniter can't draw enough current then safety valve may either fail to open or shut off gas again even if flame had already been lit.
Bro helpfull video but the issue im having is i just put in a new ignitor the stove does light up for atleast 30 sec then goes out and then lights up again then the same procedure over and over oven not staying lit
Great video and explanation! My ignitor was broken so I replaced it but my new problem is that the fire won't stay lit on the heating element. In other words, the ignitor does it's thing, lights the element and about 1-2 seconds later the fire goes out. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Хобби
Saved my 87 year old mother 326.00
Ty
thank you
I'm a retired engineer (which I know, may not mean anything) - but just wanted to say "thanks" - an excellent video, very helpful. Gave me the courage to fix my gas oven made back in the early 1980's.
You're absolutely right Chris, no one but you have ever mentioned that little button/switch to check! Also, what a great idea
to check the gas flow before the igniter to eliminate both the igniter and the gas valve for possible blockage. No gas going
in, certainly nothing coming out! You gave me the encouragement needed to do those steps now! Great job, bro
THANK YOU CHRIS! Bought 2 igniters and a mother board. Paid 35$ to talk to a 44 year ge technician and thus was my problem. I spent 2 weeks with a multi meter and wiring diagram but once I found your video I'm now about to use my 8 month old oven i spent 2k on.
Watching your video, brand new gas range stopped oven and broiler from heating.
Testing everything.Ran across your video ,bled gas line at gas safety valve.
And giddi up, everything started to work.
I think that it was a airlock in the main gas valve.
Thanks for showing, what you did. 👍👍
THANK YOU Chris! I was about to order a new igniter and get my friend to replace it (which would have been a waste of time) and I saw your video, checked the gas regulator and, sure enough, that was the problem! And just before baking holiday cookies--oh noooo! I appreciate you!
I replaced my glow bars a few years ago because oven wasn't holding temperature. Today, it wouldn't light at all. This was my exact problem. Oven works now. I have no idea how the lever flipped. I just used it last night. I didn't move anything.
Thank you for saving me hours. And I was ready to go to Lowe's and buy a new oven!
Best oven igniter troubleshooting video by far! Thanks Chris.
Hey Chris I want to thank you for your video, I’m an ex appliance tech, and you are so right about this, more than once I saw this issue with the gas off which it is actually a gas regulator, but when I saw it off, I explained it to the customer and leaving just charging the customer a house call with no labor charge, thanks again for the video, and good luck with your business, have a good day.😀
Thanks I have been Troubleshooting my Whirlpool Oven replacing parts because PEOPLE didn’t know what they were talking about until you showed the Gas valve. I turned it on and my stove is working.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH CHRIS fir your help I missed cooking my meals.
100% was my issue too. Your’s was the only video explaining that dumb switch. Thankyou
You are the man thanks. We appreciate the DIYS to help fellow DIYs save a little bit of money..
Awesome!!!! Good down to earth explanation of the layman's way to approach this problem. Thank you.
Thanks a million man this saved my a$$. I just bought a stove and thought I’d been had. The little lever was tripped. I reset it and it works great.
Thank you. The explanation at the end is gold! Thanks for taking your time and explaining!
Got a new used stove. Top burners worked. Oven and broiler didn't. Checked everything and thought I might need new igniters or who knows what. Turns out the hidden shut off switch was engaged. 😅 No video EVER said to check and make sure that was the problem.
Though this oven is not the same as mine, the tests and reset button is all the same(ish).
Thank you my man!
Awesome video. Very clean and concise! Straight to the point. Thanks man!!
You saved me! None of the other videos got this one right. Thanks for posting this.
Thank you! And that's why I always watch a couple of different videos on the same problem. It was the safety switch. I have a brand new gas oven, never used. The range worked, but not the oven. I guess that switch was left closed from the manufacturer. Thank you! I was getting pretty angry thinking I'd have to get a new part or return the stove.
This video was way WAY above my level of understanding. Unfortunately, I can see I’m gonna have to pay somebody to come out here and rip me off to fix my oven.
lmao, Im about there. Just replaced an igniter for it to fry 3 minutes into test run. Ordered a replacment and if this one shits the bed on arrival I guess its something else.
Did you check the saftey switch he talked about? The main point of the video was that for him it was as easy as flipping a lever
Very practical and detailed video. Thanks for sharing this information. Maybe you should start your own appliance repair business. Gotta love an everyman's video for DIY repair and troubleshooting.
Thank you, Chris!!!! This video saved me a lot of time and money. I had the same issues and it was that SWITCH!
Bro, man, you explained how the metals contract and open and close the valved! That was so cool and helpful in understanding the system and what makes it work, or what makes it fail. Watching your video could actually bring up a persons IQ!
Thank you
I'm writing this on Thanksgiving as I realize my oven isn't working.
I Don't have the little safety valve on my 1980's model Frigidaire, but still appreciating your video.
I hope it the thermostat, cause I have another one, if it's the igniter...I'm going to have to bar b que the dang turkey, and we will be eating around 10 p.m.
Wish us luck.
Maybe we could do turkey tomorrow and just have sides today....
Whoa, the family is in outright rebellion on that idea.
Wish me luck.
Great video! This was the only one that said anything about the Safety Valve let alone the pressure switch you have. What's weird with mine is the bottom igniter lights but no gas/flame. Put it on Broil, igniter lights and I get a half of a flame and the igniter stays on. Stove top works fine.
That did it!! Thanks brother!! I never knew that switch existed and other videos barely mentioned it.
Thanks for the video. My problem happened during a power failure and I was running off a generator. The igniter was turning on, but the valve wasn't opening. Turns out the generator was over-loaded and not putting out high enough voltage. When I turned everything off except the stove, it worked fine.
Great video, I will check that safety switch, my burners are working, but the oven is not lighting. I just bought a new oven temperature probe. It's h8t and miss till I find the culprit. Thank you😊
Well I may have sent a stove to the graveyard prematurely last week. Wish I had this knowledge then! I’m not an appliance tech, but because of my experience I get asked to look at many things when doing repairs on rental properties. One of my property managers just picked up a bunch of houses with gas stoves, so I’m trying to educate myself.
Thanks buddy; just bought new igniter and it’s already bad - 🙏👌👍
Dude....MORE VIDEOS LIKE YOU!!!! The world would be a better place!
I'm always terrified I'll blow the house up
thank you very much for pointing out that little switch, flipped it and oven working again.
Omg I'll be a SOB. I just watched all those videos for the last week or so. Replaced the regulator which for some reason was leaking. My thermostat, control board, and safety valve. I was fed up today about ready to throw out the door and just found your video. Thanks for the tip. Oh well I guess I should get another 9 years out of this one with new parts. 😅😂
Thank you for the video it's very detailed and instructional I'm going to check mine now because my oven is doing the same thing
Youre awesome! Same youtuber teaching me how to fix up my Datsun just saved me a visit from a repair guy! Thanks!
getting back on the Datsun soon .. thanks
@@chriscraft2 Nice! I might be getting mine this weekend. I was watching alot of your Datsun and other car vidoes the past couple weeks. When I searched "Gas oven wont heat up" I laughed to myself when I saw you as the top result.
YOU ROCK! Thank you from New York!
if there was a golden buzz like button, this video deserved it.
Excellent analysis. I would like to add a little. The ignitor and safety gas valve are in series. Electrically the sizing of these, as a pair is critical in that the ignitor must be hot enough to ignite the gas and and the heating of the safety valve must be enough to open and hold open the valve. In other words a matched pair. If there is a mismatch you will have no ignition or no gas. Some manufactures have a poor match, This is more likely a problem if a UNIVERSAL ignitor is used as the resistance of the ignitor can be unpredictable.
I replaced the safety valve with an OEM, had flam, oven heated to 350 then cut out, any thoughts?
Thank you so much! Got my oven working again!
Thank you for this video and explanation!
Thank you! Excellent video!
A new subscriber thank you Chris
Tek you are doing great esplanade good job on your video and your great work
Great video! Thank you!
Thankyou for the helpful video!
Your the man awesome works like a charm
awesome video. very helpful. thank you
Great DIY video
Fantastic video.
THANK YOU THAN YOU! You the man blessings to you for this video
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I wish there were more people in the world like you!
I actually knew about that valve ..when it's no longer under gas pressure I think it trips itself..love your videos .. unfortunately it didn't solve my problem ..
yes.. I had shut the valve off to move it and forgot.. literally forgot and thought it was something else
question: The burners were working BEFORE you found the safety valve switch. Wouldn't the safety valve shut off gas to the entire stove?
According to a video I just watched the oven may not work but stove did ,😵💫 maybe heating element maybe regulator idk 😶
No, if you can see there is two valves, one goes left and up and the other one top right. The left to top goes to your burners and your top right goes to your oven. Separate lines
you’re my savior
That was my damn problem. Thank you so much
Good job! Mr. Boat Guy
ours is only 3 ish years old, and for the last probably 6 months to a year the oven wont ignite unless i turn one of the burners on and let it run a few seconds, and then the oven will preheat, but i have to check it cuz sometimes ill have to do it again or the food wont continue to bake
Thank you Dude!🎉
So I have a Samsung that usually goes from cold to hot (0-400°F) in 12 minutes. Now it just stays at 175°F and doesn’t move. Is it the igniter maybe there’s a safety switch with the new or Samsung’s work? It won’t allow gas to the oven as a safety measure in the igniter? It’s a newer Samsung gas oven with the blue digital display
Hello bro! I had the same problem. You are the only person in the entire world probably showed this video. My safety clip probably got knocked out when it was morning or transporting. Now it works but I am still having problems with the safety values remaining on after the oven is switched off
I'm thinking he doesn't understand why it tripped in the first place since he didn't know it even existed. I'm having the same problem and I definitely hesitate to override the safety feature, especially if it keeps tripping, you're messing with gas supply and an open flame.
excellent, thanks!
Thanks dude.
Omg thank you!!!
Thank you but what do we do if our oven doesn’t have a visible switch?
Hey there, how much would you charge a customer to replace a old igniter for a oven
Thank you im going to check that as soon as my wife is dont with the cook top
Thank you
Thanks you for Trinidad
Oh my goodness thank you
great vid!! thanks. I have an LG gas oven. The stove and top burners all work fine. The Broiler (with new igniter now and glows HOT) comes on but has a weak gas flow/small flames, they flicker on and off. and I have adjusted the air/fuel mixer to be about in the middle. I have continuity on both sides of my dual safety valve, very low ohms. any ideas??? THANKS !
Nice work! My broiler works, but the oven "bake" burner only makes a tiny flame. I tapped on the burner and it worked normally, but on re-testing it's back to a small flame. I'm guessing something is wrong with the gas regulator.
During a lightning storm my whirlpool gas oven got hit. I have replaced the ignitor, temp sensor and still no heat in oven. Ignitor won't light at all. The gas line is very short so getting behind stove is only possible for a leprechaun.
The broil doesn't work either. Only top burners. I would greatly appreciate some advise on what my next step should be. The model # WFG114SWQ1
Good job
Awesome.
Good video. That is why when the range broke, I would rather buy a new one
Do you have any suggestions as to what is happening? I did all the test and everything checks out
Thanks bro
The owners aren't really fixing anything in the house so I figured I could figure out what's going on
Yes hi Chris I have a Frigidaire gas stove with electric motors my oven will not come on neither will the broader boiler so I changed out the igniter but it’s still not doing anything thanks for your video but can you tell me which direction the safety switch on the regular gas regulator which way it goes in any more thoughts on how I can check things I’m a dummy broad thanks, Chris
Hi on my samsung stove I'm getting 3.1a on the igniters i tested the ohms on the gas valve and it reads 1.1 omhs is the valve bad?
You seriously just saved me $250 repairbuilt which I was gonna show the dam of an hour and just buy a new one. A flip and switch.
I am so upset at this repair guy
How was the stove top working with that switch in the off position?
Put an amp probe on one side of the igniter and turn the oven on. If the igniter glows and draws 3 Amps your igniter is good if you’re drawing less than 3 Amps you have a bad igniter
Brother you knocked it oyt of the park with that advice mine was stuff closed thiugh it showed open. I closed and reopened and click. Thx
Do I unplug it to turn on the switch?
Would a power outage flip the safety?
I'm curious, did your broiler light also? I know the top burners did. My oven won't come on, but the stove top and even the broiler works. Just not the oven/baking portion. Thank you for this video. Last time we called someone who charged $200 and found that he pushed a reset button. So thank you.
Mine is doing the same burners and broiler work. No oven. What did you find?
Same problem I’m having with my gas stove
@@bmorecareful436 I had to replace the igniter in mine. One of the connections had become corroded and the wire pulled out of it. It works fine now.
Thanks Chris you were spot on!!! It was just my igniter. I did all the tests with my volt meter and you were spot on!!! Wish more videos were this spot on!!!
Same happened with me 😂Just reset and there you go.
you right
What did you do to solve the problem, which part did you change? I have that problem. The bottom part turns on and off.
My Samsung electric stove has a code of CDO how do I fix it?
I replace those safety valves rather often actually. Robert Shaw has a monopoly on them so no incentive to make them more robust.
The igniter should read ~50-100 Ω when cold. It's resistance increases with heat, self limiting the current as it operates. Only when it's already glowing cherry hot would I expect a 300+ Ω reading. If igniter can't draw enough current then safety valve may either fail to open or shut off gas again even if flame had already been lit.
Do all gas ovens have that switch?
Great video, loved your style of explaining. Just one question, what was the white residue on the cook surface??
probably Sheetrock from remodel
Jizz
Bro helpfull video but the issue im having is i just put in a new ignitor the stove does light up for atleast 30 sec then goes out and then lights up again then the same procedure over and over oven not staying lit
If there isn't any gas going through what then?
Great video and explanation! My ignitor was broken so I replaced it but my new problem is that the fire won't stay lit on the heating element. In other words, the ignitor does it's thing, lights the element and about 1-2 seconds later the fire goes out. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I don’t know but used appliance places will usually have a service guy that can come to your house and fix it for a decent price..
Any ideas why it tripped originally? Are you worried about overriding the safety feature without understanding why it tripped in the first place?
I unhooked it to move it
i know this video is old but i cannot locate this switch anywhere
6:29 “Neva neva neva, can’t forget the bev”
you must love physics 😊