Frigidaire Electric Range Oven Control Board Repair 318010102
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- Опубликовано: 16 дек 2022
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Repair for Electric Range Oven Control Board with part number 318010102
Compatible part numbers: 833235 AH440917 EA440917 PS440917
This controller can be found in the following models:
Models: PLCF489CCD PLCF489CCF
PLEF489CCD PLCF489CCC PLCF489CCC
PLCF489CCA PLCF489ACA PLEF489ACB
PLEF489ACC PLEF489CCA CPLCF489DC2
CPLCF489DC3 CPLCF489DC4 PLCF489ACB
PLCF489CCB PLCF489CCE PLEF489ACA
PLEF489ACD PLEF489CCB PLEF489CCE
PPLEF489CCF PLEF489CCG 79075503200
79075503201 79074503990 79074503991
79074503992 79075503202 79075503203
79075503204 79075503206 79075503207
79099503990 79099503992 79099503993
79099503994 79099513300 79099513301
79099513302 79099513303 79099513304
79099513305 79099513306 FEF379CFBA
FEF379CFBB
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Just had to say this was an awesome tutorial!! I have checked everything on my oven but even the technician that came out said he wasn’t qualified to touch the board. My board is no longer made so I watched your video and all I had to do was clean and re-solder two pins. Saved me from spending 2000 on a new oven. Thank you so much!!
Awesome! Glad it helped!
I woke up and tried to cook breakfast and the bottom bake element wasn't working in my oven. After doing some research and going through and troubleshooting the other parts of the stove it became clear it was probably the control board (part# 316080103 from model FEF389WFCJ). I found your video once I got to taking the control board out. Saw the exact same leg had come loose. I removed the relay and tested it with a 9v battery and it was still working. So thank you for posting this video it helped a lot!
Hey of course not a problem! I am glad to hear we were able to help you get this resolved.
Thanks so much for this video! I just found the same bad solder joint. I was able to fix it myself. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Glad I could help!
I picked up a free stainless steel oven off of Marketplace. The lady said they had a power surge and it burnt out the stoves oven control board. After some testing, I found out the thermal fuse, wrapped inside the main transformer, had burnt out. Simple fix at almost no cost.
Also fixed my mother in law's oven. One of the main solder connections that sends power to the oven and melted. Simply re-soldered and added a bit of extra solder. Been working for years now.
Nice! That first one (fuse inside the transformer) can be a tough one to identify, you also have to know there is one in there which most people don't. I have been meaning to do a video on exactly that repair.
Yeah, the solder connections going bad is very common, not just for oven boards but anything that has high power going through it. Glad to hear the repair spirits are high! Not enough people with that mindset anymore.
Nick, thank you so much for the assist with this video! I followed your instructions and found a burnt/blown solder joint on the bake relay. Fixed up the soldering and reflowed the other joints as suggested. Dual fuel oven bakes again!!! Thanks again--there's very few people out there sharing this kind of info. Super helpful!!!
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much! This saved me $300 for a new Kenmore Elite control board. The main power relay was open.
Hey that's great news! Glad we could help!
💯 thank you. my broiler blew knew enough to change the element. I've tested everything. this had to be it. I'm looking at a pin loose on my board. The only thing that threw me was you have to gently pry the board apart on mine. so unless you are experienced 🤔 go slow and watch a demonstration. I did it. I'm beyond excited to fix it myself. Awesome tutorial.
Let us know if you have any issues with the repair. We do offer a service as well if you aren't comfortable with the repair or if you don't have the right tools.
Thanks for the video. Saved me a lot of money.
Glad it helped
Thank you buddy, helped me alot!!
Glad to hear it!
that an impressive setup!
Thank you
Lo intentaré! Muchas gracias por tu video!! 👌🏻
No hay problema, espero que esto te ayude a arreglar tu horno.
Omg that was exactly what was wrong with mine thank you so much for this video
Hey that's awesome, glad we were able to help you identify the fault.
Hearing he relay click is not always an indicator that it's working 100%. If you have the electrical specs you should also check the resistance to complete the full diagnostic.
Yes, correct. When checking the relays we also check the continuity to make sure it's properly working.
Someone did mention this in one of the earlier comments after the video first came out and we have been doing it that way ever since.
Exactly! He should have taken a resistance reading across the contact pins to see if the relay contacts are damaged.
Half a repair.
Suggestion: Use silver-bearing solder for this repair. NOT "silver solder", ... silver BEARING solder. It comes typically with 2% or 4% silver. It makes a much stronger joint than conventional tin/lead electronics solder. Resoldering these blown-out joints with regular solder lasted about 2 years. After using silver-bearing solder, it's been 5 years and still works.
So we use leaded solder because I have been told that since lead is a softer metal, it means in theory it is less likely to crack from thermal cycling. What are your thoughts on that? I have seen different information online pointing me in different directions over the years all saying to use different things.
If you have more information and details regarding using solder with silver in it I would love to read up on it. We do have solder with 4% silver we just don't use it often.
@@NicksTVRepair Leaded solder is definitely WAY better than the lead-free stuff. So if I had to choose between those two, I would choose leaded. But, silver bearing solder is Sn/Pb/Ag - Tin, Lead, Silver. So you are not giving up the good qualities of lead by going to silver bearing. Just that 2 or 4% added silver makes the solder much physically stronger. ChipQuik makes it (and I'm sure other brands do): Chip Quik SMD3SW.015
Ran into a similar issue with a co-workers hot tub. His hot tub technician told him he needed a new heater board and that he is SOL because its no longer available. I offered to take a look at it. I saw the 240V in at the relay had been arcing on the board. I scrapped the solder mask and wrapped the leg of the relay with 14 gauge wire and then soldered it to the trace to beef up the connection. Saved him throwing away a hot tub. Its crazy how much electronics get tossed due to simple flaws.
Do you remember the part number or model of the hot tub? I would be interested to know and do a video on that as well.
@@NicksTVRepair It was 2 years ago....I think it was a Pinnacle hot tub. Don't remember the board model #.
Thanks!
Hey thank you for the tip! Glad I could help!
really good video. Unfortunatly I saw nothing obvious ssso more research pending!!
It is rare but the relays themselves could be bad. We do have a mail-in repair service, if you aren't able to find the faults, you can always send it in and one of my techs will fix it for you.
We have a flat rate service for these, just check out the link in the video description.
You do everything, somewhat like me. I got a trash AC last yr, board was inop, the little xfrmer to the board fried, fixed that, then I noticed the relays were acting funny, not latching sometimes, they were 12 volt relays but the board was a 5 volt board,....huh yea cheap chinese garbage, I replaced all the relays with 5 volt, worked fine then. You've inspired me to get something like this going for my retirement yrs, I was a mechanic then had to have back surgeries, went back to school for electronics.
Yeah electronic repair is a lot of fun. I enjoy it.
@@NicksTVRepairI have shifted gears to some old stereos I obtained, having much greater success. I have service manuals, its a cake walk with those.
You may want to check continuity to make sure it making and breaking connection properly. Oven relays fuse togther but still make the click sound. If the relay connection on the plunger is dirty with sut it still won't send power to element. Both of those are extremely common
You are indeed correct, it is best to perform a resistance check once you hear the click to make sure there is continuity. We do in fact do that every time now, learned about doing that after the video got published. The video was our very first oven controler repair. We have done hundreds since then. But with that being said, the relays have so far never actually failed on this unit specifically. Not even once. So really there is actually no need to do a check if you are DIY . We still do it for QA but if you are reading this and don't have a multimeter and just want to get your board fixed, you only need to worry about fixing the cracked solder joint.
Thanks for the tutorial. I'm going to try this on my 318010102 board. Question tho... I have an issue with the temp (like you showed) as well as a dim display. Have you encountered that before?
Hello,
Yes, the dim display is fixable but does require a bit more advanced soldering skills as you will need to replace the entire display with a new one. Here is a video on that exact repair I made:
ruclips.net/video/bSUa4f8KvhM/видео.html
I do have the display for sale on my website if you want to give that a try yourself.
nickselectronics.com/products/ovendisplay
good stuff. how hot do you run your Hakko?
It depends on the job and the tip I use. But it's going to be between 350c and 450c.
Hi Nick, This was a great tutorial (though I don't have all your great tools, so not in a position to solder etc.) But I have a question regarding a Frigidaire Gallery Range; Model #: FFEH3054USA and hopefully you can help me. The Self Cleaning mode keeps blowing the thermal fuse, which I had to replace three times over the years (it's a rental property and the renters keep ignoring the request not to use Self-Clean). Do you have any advice on how to permanently disable the Self-Clean mode of the oven w/o impacting any of the other functions of the oven? (either which wires to disconnect or how to disable it through the control board). I bet if you create a video on that it will be VERY popular... :) 🤔
The only way I would know to disable the clean feature without affecting anything else would require soldering. You should be able to get away with removing the button itself. And while you may be able to cut it off or break it off you might run the risk of damaging the board if it's not properly desoldered.
How do you remove the push button front? I have tried pushing what appears to be tabs but they do not seem to press far enough. Great video!
Hello Lewis,
I can't really explain it without showing. We decided not to show that in our video since we wanted to primareily focus on the repair aspect and also lots of other videos do have the how to open part included.
Thanks for the reply. I figured it out. They were a pull tab on the side where I was thinking there were push tabs on front edge
Increased resistance of the high-side relay contacts are creating the overheating symptom on the board. You need to replace the bake relay. This is one of the most common problems I see on electric ranges. IMHO, those relays are under spec-ed for the job they do. You might think is was planned obsolescence.
Thank you for your comment and for watching the video!
How could one cool the relay or the board to help prevent this in the future? Are there higher-quality relays even available for sale? I didn't do it on screen but typically there is almost 0 ohms of resistance when the relay is activated. If the relay leg was wider or had more points of contact with the pad on the board I guess that would help distribute the power over a larger area and in theory would help reduce heat no?
I know how to fix things, but when it comes to circuit board design that's not my strength.
I've probably got the same problem, but i can't figure out how to get the circuit boards out of the plastic housing... you seemed to magically skip that part in the video. any hints?
So we decided to skip over the opening part because a lot of other youtube videos covered it already and it slowed down the pace of the video a lot.
We wanted to focus more on the testing and soldering portion of the repair.
What do you use to remove the solder?
You can use desolder wick, or a desolder pump. We use a desolder pump to get the bluk and if there is any left over we finish off the work with wick.
I have the same Frigidaire board your working .I can't seem to figure out how to remove the plastic frame holding the CB together without breaking it would appreciate some help
We decided to skip that part in the video because it would have added an extra minute and we felt like it really slowed down the video. There were already videos out there showing how to take it apart which was another reason we decided to skip that. We felt like some of the repair videos weren't very good which is why we focused on that mostly.
I enjoyed your video and found help for my sisters Samsung TV ,so I subscribed and appreciated a timely answer, but in the reply you could have just told me.I didn't expect something for nothing to show appreciation
@@NicksTVRepair any hints at how to take it apart to get at the boards? link to something to get the plastic frame off?
I have the same board as in the video giving me an F1 Error Code however I took everything apart to check the board and nothing looks burnt at all. Threw it back together and still giving me an F1 Code after about 20 seconds or so of pressing bake.
Vince,
In our case the relay was very clearly and visibly the issue, however that is not always the case. Sometimes the cracked solder joint can be much more subtle and the crack can still be there without the burning.
The fault could also be somewhere else of course.
If you can take high definition pictures of the relay joints and email those over to me, I can inspect the pictures and let you know if there are cracks on those joints.
Hey Nick do you mind sending my your email so I can send you those pictures please sir.
@@vincegaona132 Vince,
Sorry, RUclips doesn't send me notifications when someone replies. All of our info is in the video description for contact. If I ever provide links or phone numbers / emails / Whatsapp numbers, it's a scam. Ill never do that.
Always get my contact info from the video description.
good morning friend I have a sony KDL-65x850c it turns on in white, RED, BLUE, GREEN color mode AND STAYS LIKE THAT the led turns white and stays like that no image appears can you help me
Hello,
We typically see those types of issues when the Mainboard is replaced and the ribbons are not properly installed. If you have not replaced any parts, then it could either be either your Mainboard or your T-con board that is causing the fault.
If you could email me to our support@nickstvs.com email with more details and background information, I may be better able to assist you.
Ever consider working on a oven gas valve relays? Don't know anyone who does it?
ruclips.net/video/6Xd_VNcO8k8/видео.html
We prefer to focus on electronic and electrical circuit board repairs. The gas valve seems to be more of a mechanical type repair. We also typically only work on discontinued parts or extremely expensive to replace parts as that is where the demand is on repairs.
These valves seem to be available for less than $100 on eBay so it may not make sense to fix unless the price starts going up.
@@NicksTVRepair Thanks nick for the response! I just might thinker around with those electronic "coils" in the valves just out of curiosity to see why they commonly fail?
When I check those relays on the bench I hook up my meter to the load terminals to make sure I'm getting continuity between the two when I apply dc voltage to the coil terminals. I've had these types of relays where the coil might click but the internal contacts of the load terminals were bad.
Bill,
Thank you for that tip, that's great info and totally makes sense. I was planning on doing a follow up video on these covering more faults that can occur. Ill make sure to show that in the next video we make.
Thanks!
Hey Bobby! Thank you so much for the Super thanks!
I appreciate that very much!
Thanks!
Wow thanks! Really appreciate that donation!
And we appreciate the video! We had the same problem, and this made it a totally manageable fix.
Awesome very happy to hear!