Burned Frigidaire Oven Control Board How To Fix oven does heat up
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- Send in your Oven control board for repair: nickselectronics.com/products...
Common symptoms we fix:
Oven doesn't heat up
Broiler doesn't heat up
Dead oven, no power
Dim Display
Other faults contact us!
Questions? Leave us a comment or contact us directly:
nickselectronics.com/pages/co...
info@nickselectronicrepair.com
520-838-9359 
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great video!!! straight to the point and got it done! I feel a little educated and I will tackle this. my control board looks exactly like that one. just ordered my resistors and some more flux. thank you!!
I think the 5th white band means it's a fusible resistor. So you would need to use a 230 ohm fusible resistor as a replacement.
After watching several of these Nick's repair videos I was so impressed with their skill and attention to detail I contacted them and I have sent my Frigidaire/Kenmore oven control board in to them to be repaired. Maybe my repepair will be in one of their videos.
If it has an unusal or intereseting failure I will most likely make a video on it!
Thanks for this video. I had the exact same board and the exact same resistor failed. I suspect this particular resistor was susceptible to thermal cycling.
Did you also touch up the solder joints on the relay and connector pins?
If you didn't it's likely your resistor fails again or something else starts malfunctioning in the next few months/year
can you share the link to buy the devices/parts you used in the video?
Here is a list of all the tools we use which you can get from amazon:
Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3FQfyhG
Solder: amzn.to/3qScy0d
Desolder wick: amzn.to/33DAjjy
Flux: amzn.to/42YWYBa
FR301 Desolder pump: amzn.to/3IhTKzc
As for the resistor and relay you can get that from your local electronics repair store if you have one and if not you can get them on ebay, amazon, Digikey, Mouser, Arrow, or any other electronics component retail store.
Always interesting videos thanks.. What does that resistor feed? it's totally fried.. Careful of that carbonized board, in repairs like that I usually grind that out as carbon is conductive, I learnt that the hard way..
The resistor goes to that big relay. I don't have that customers board anymore but I believe it goes to feed either the oven, or broiler, so it does have a lot of power going through it. I could be wrong don't quote me on this.
Thanks for the reply, in the crt days I fixed a loewe TV that looked similar, I cleaned up the board and repaired the dry solder joints, but the plastic support frame that the board mounted on was also black and I didn't see that it was also covered in carbon from arcing , on reassembly I just remember it started to arc and light up... 😮 once I removed it cleaned the board again and the plastic frame cutting away the burned part it was all OK.. That model TV had a factory recall on them for catching fire.. I can see why, no problem once they were fixed.
interesting.
I can't help but wonder if using the self-cleaning feature is at least causing some of the issues with the boards. Obviously, the heating element relay really gets tested during cleaning cycles. I won't let my spouse use it at all.
Well it does depend on the oven, I know some ovens use the same circuit for the cleaning feature and others have a completely seperate circuits with different relays used for cleaning which helps distribute the load. So I guess it depends on what type you have. If you have a nicer/fancier oven you most likely are fine to use the clean feature as it uses a different part of the circuit than the normal bake and broil but if you have a lower end, then it most likely uses the same circuit and relays.
I definitely need my control board fix. My Whirlpool oven has an error message F3-E0. It might be the range oven sensor or a short on the board. It turns out it's not the oven sensor. Would it be the relay?
What is the model of your range and or the part number of the control board? Different units get different error codes.
Usually the relays going out don't trigger an error code but instead the oven or broiler just doesn't work. Usually when you have an error code it means something else has gone bad.
I need a bit more info on your range before I can give you more info.
Also you say your thermal sensor is not the issue. Can you give me more information as to how you were able to rule it out for sure?
@@NicksElectronicRepair Whirlpool control board
part# W10813832 preb1
Range oven sensor
part# W10181986
I measured my range oven sensor with a multimeter. The meter measured 1100 Ohms.
Broil element measured 16.4 Ohms
My broil and baking elements are working.
Shoot, I am not familiar with this model. I have only ever worked on 1 of these units before and it was a failure with the relays. I don't think this is your issue so what this means is that I wouldn't be able to help you with the repair on this one without having it in my hands to troubleshoot and diagnose my self. I don't know what part could have failed. I just don't have enough experience with this exact unit.
@@NicksElectronicRepair I'm also getting a F6-E1 error. I wonder if it might be the NTC thermistor on the board. It looks like a wrong capacitor
Yeah unfortunately without having you send it in for me to be able to diagnose and test in person, I won't be able to assist.
I did a bit of research and those aren't normal resistors but fusible resistors. A fuse combined with a resistor. It's supposed to fail open circuit when the current gets too high.
Can you share the information you found? From what I know and have seen across many different types of electronics, all resistors fail open when the current gets too high. This is not a specific feature of this resistor but occurs in all resistors including SMD and throughole.
Now there are also thermal resistors and thermal fuses on a lot of electronics we fix but the resistor we replace here is just a normal resistor from what I can tell. A thermal resistor at least in my experience will look different than the resistor that is on those boards.
Again I would be very interested in a link to where you were reading this information so I can check it out for myself and see if I am wrong.
I know that I don't know everything and will always be learning so I would love to read up on what you found.
@@NicksElectronicRepair My knowledge about this is literally half an hour of googling "fusible resistor", so I am not really qualified to talk about this. You are totally right. Resistors that fail, those that I have come across at least, usually fail open circuit.
But these resistors are designed to FAIL open circuit and fail "SAFELY" above a certain wattage (though it was quite a lot of carbonization imho). That's something different than saying this resistor CAN handle .25 Watt, and it will fail above that at some point. It might even do .5 Watt, who knows? And when it fails it might actually start a fire or something. Its not used for circuit protection but for voltage drop. With a fusible resistor you get both lower voltage and over current protection. You could simply replace a fusible resistor with a fuse and a resistor inline but that's one more part, more space you need etc....
Here is the thing, full transparency, I am 100% a "fake it till I make it". I really do learn as I go and have 0 formal education.
Obviously, I stand behind my work and I do give a 1-year warranty for all repairs because that's the right thing to do. So this is all to say that your half an hour of googling is on par with my knowledge of that resistor.
I always try to replace parts with as close to originals as I can unless I know it makes more sense to replace them with something else of higher quality.
If anyone has more knowledge I am all ears and am happy to learn.
@@NicksElectronicRepair Yeah no worries. Hadn't known of them before either and it seems to be quite a niche thing. It simply bothered me that it had a weird color code, those standards are usually pretty universal.
If I ever come across one in the future I'll know what that thing is :)
Best of luck with your business.
So we do replace these on power supply boards sometimes:
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tdk-lambda/DFN51120/2350891
Those are the only thermal resistors I have encountered but they physically look very different than the normal resistors.
And we do have to replace them for power supply boards on TV sets.
Where can i find this individual piece?
The resistor?
Google