This detailed video shows how to diagnose, oven disassembly, board removal, electronic relay replacement, tips, assemble and test for confirmation of repair.
Excellent video! You just saved me $284.00. Thanks Much! My oven is a Maytag MERH865RAS, I could not find a schematic of the control board (AP6009766 or WP5702M025-60) I replaced the broken bake element but still no heat. Took the control board out and looked at the relays closest to the Bake element wires (Red/white and yellow) I replaced relay K1 first and tried it. Still no heat. I then replaced relay K8 and Boom it worked! 2 relays $12.01 from Digi-Key (p/n G2RL-1-E-CF DC24) Thanks again, You are the Man!
Be careful, these are 24 volt relays Digi-Key (p/n G2RL-1-E-CF DC24) , a lot of Kenmore's and Frigidaire's use 12 volt relays so double check the number on your relay.
I just did the file and cleaning trick and it works now. Thanks a lot. I knew it was the relay but never tought on filing the corners to open it. Good job. Thumbs up
Thanks a lot for this video, I'm fixing the exact same Frigidaire range and you helped me diagnose the problem (the bottom relay blew up on the backside and covered the boards in black soot).
Awesome video! The can opening technique was really out-of-the-box thinking :)! Even though there's an easier way to remove those relays got still have no excuses & stuck in there! A cool side effect to that is viewers without these tools can still also do it :)!
There is a better method for removing the old relay with less risk of damaging the printed circuit board. Use a solder sucker to suck off the molten solder clean off the board. After sucking off the solder from all of the relay pins, just pull off the relay from the board and you will be ready to solder in the new relay.
I have the infamous F1 error code. As well as oven sometimes not coming up to temp. Either controller board or relays. Will take a stab at cleaning relays first. Oven is 20 years old.
I am doing the same thing but am thinking about running wires from the relay mounting pad and using a separate small printed circuit board to mount the relay on. Later on if I need to replace it again I will just clip the wires and use another small printed circuit board. It would make it much easier next time.
The easier test to do is to connect a 9 volt battery to the two relay coil leads and hear if it is clicking, if it is clicking you can connect your meter to the two leads that are connected to the heating element to see if you get a connection, this can all be done without removing the relay from the circuit board. Make sure you file off the protective coating on the leads or you won't get a connection.
Just use a solder sucker or solder wick to remove the part and old solder and save yourself a ton of time and avoid overheating your components, no drill is required
Didn't focus well enough at 3:27 to read the numbers off the relay. Can you tell us what p/n you used to order the replacement? Update: Never mind, figured it out from later images in the video. Using Digi-Key Part Number A109514-ND, currently $3.62 each.
I know this old, but incase someone else has same issue. Most of these control panels rely on spring loading plastic when you push on the front panel. The plastic pad under the panel face has a post in the middle that when it flexes inward, hits a momentary contact button soldered into the control board. The button could be bad, but it is more likely the plastic pad that transfers the button push down to that little contact button on the board has broken. If you peal off the front panel or remove the control board from the oven and then take it out of the plastic housing you will likely find a free floating piece of plastic in that has broken away from the rest of the housing. I have fixed this issue a couple different ways, but one of the best is using something like plasticweld to reattach and reinforce the pad where it broke away from the housing (remove the whole control unit and pull out the board to make this easier). You can also attach/glue the broken pad with the post directly to the front panel but you have to make sure your placement is perfect. This is not the best way to do this fix.
ok buen video amigo tengo una board de esas pero se le quemo el transformador pero no se de cuanto es la entrada ni la salida si me puedes ayudar porfis saludos desde venezuela
I found a relay somewhat the same size for my Window AC, found it on ebay, just search ebay, Amazon, or a parts house like Digikey. The parts on these boards are cheap, if you have soldering skills & can use a volt meter you can save some a lot of money.
for someone who knows nothing about appliance repair; this video skipped so many steps that I would have found very helpful. I'm still at a loss on how to fix my stove. This video is defiantly for someone who has experience with DIY repairs.
John Delk I did not consider the black device as I confirmed the white relays were for bake and broil. I am not recalling what the black device was for.
Used a pencil type soldering tool and solder wick. Hardest part was seperating the circuit board. Once we figured out to squeeze center clips and pull straight up...the rest was easy. Broiler did not work. Changed the broil relay.
Excellent video! You just saved me $284.00. Thanks Much!
My oven is a Maytag MERH865RAS, I could not find a schematic of the control board (AP6009766 or WP5702M025-60) I replaced the broken bake element but still no heat. Took the control board out and looked at the relays closest to the Bake element wires (Red/white and yellow) I replaced relay K1 first and tried it. Still no heat. I then replaced relay K8 and Boom it worked! 2 relays $12.01 from Digi-Key (p/n G2RL-1-E-CF DC24) Thanks again, You are the Man!
I rlly wish I could find a schematic as well. tells me there's runaway temp, wouldnt think the relay is the problem on my board
Be careful, these are 24 volt relays Digi-Key (p/n G2RL-1-E-CF DC24) , a lot of Kenmore's and Frigidaire's use 12 volt relays so double check the number on your relay.
I just did the file and cleaning trick and it works now. Thanks a lot. I knew it was the relay but never tought on filing the corners to open it. Good job. Thumbs up
Thanks a lot for this video, I'm fixing the exact same Frigidaire range and you helped me diagnose the problem (the bottom relay blew up on the backside and covered the boards in black soot).
Awesome video!
The can opening technique was really out-of-the-box thinking :)!
Even though there's an easier way to remove those relays got still have no excuses & stuck in there!
A cool side effect to that is viewers without these tools can still also do it :)!
There is a better method for removing the old relay with less risk of damaging the printed circuit board. Use a solder sucker to suck off the molten solder clean off the board. After sucking off the solder from all of the relay pins, just pull off the relay from the board and you will be ready to solder in the new relay.
Great video. Thanks.
I have the infamous F1 error code. As well as oven sometimes not coming up to temp. Either controller board or relays. Will take a stab at cleaning relays first. Oven is 20 years old.
Use desoldering wick. make it easy on yourself. Or try spring loaded desolder.
Works well Great product, worth the money
‘Hello and thanks for clicking on this video’
I love it!!
Why not just use solder wick to remove the solder from the pins of the relay and remove it.
I am doing the same thing but am thinking about running wires from the relay mounting pad and using a separate small printed circuit board to mount the relay on. Later on if I need to replace it again I will just clip the wires and use another small printed circuit board. It would make it much easier next time.
Where is your desoldering vacuum pump?...you could save yourself a hassle with heating all contacts of the relay at once, then cleaning holes, etc....
Great video
Thank you this video was incredible helpful
The easier test to do is to connect a 9 volt battery to the
two relay coil leads and hear if it is clicking, if it is clicking
you can connect your meter to the two leads that are
connected to the heating element to see if you get a
connection, this can all be done without removing the
relay from the circuit board.
Make sure you file off the protective coating on the
leads or you won't get a connection.
can you damage the Integrated circuit or drive transistor that controls the relay by doing that ?
I went on EBAY and paid $30 for a used replacement - fixed it faster than this video.
Just use a solder sucker or solder wick to remove the part and old solder and save yourself a ton of time and avoid overheating your components, no drill is required
Thanks, neighboring chips on my board!
thank you for the video,I have the same oven,can you tel me how test the relai and when to buy them,and thanks a lot
Thanks for the vid. What if the yellow wire is burned? That part of the control panel is also burned. Thanks.
Didn't focus well enough at 3:27 to read the numbers off the relay. Can you tell us what p/n you used to order the replacement? Update: Never mind, figured it out from later images in the video. Using Digi-Key Part Number A109514-ND, currently $3.62 each.
Excellant video! But you didnt explain how you determined the relay was bad!
What are the part numbers for this repair. I’m looking at the same situation.
I have a similar stove and my up button to adjust time/temp etc. does not work. Everything else seems to work ok. Any suggestions?
I know this old, but incase someone else has same issue. Most of these control panels rely on spring loading plastic when you push on the front panel. The plastic pad under the panel face has a post in the middle that when it flexes inward, hits a momentary contact button soldered into the control board. The button could be bad, but it is more likely the plastic pad that transfers the button push down to that little contact button on the board has broken. If you peal off the front panel or remove the control board from the oven and then take it out of the plastic housing you will likely find a free floating piece of plastic in that has broken away from the rest of the housing. I have fixed this issue a couple different ways, but one of the best is using something like plasticweld to reattach and reinforce the pad where it broke away from the housing (remove the whole control unit and pull out the board to make this easier). You can also attach/glue the broken pad with the post directly to the front panel but you have to make sure your placement is perfect. This is not the best way to do this fix.
ok buen video amigo tengo una board de esas pero se le quemo el transformador pero no se de cuanto es la entrada ni la salida si me puedes ayudar porfis saludos desde venezuela
Do you know what controls the top oven element, bottom one is working fine
Anybody figure out where you can order the relays for relay boards? Having a hard time finding.
I found a relay somewhat the same size for my Window AC, found it on ebay, just search ebay, Amazon, or a parts house like Digikey. The parts on these boards are cheap, if you have soldering skills & can use a volt meter you can save some a lot of money.
for someone who knows nothing about appliance repair; this video skipped so many steps that I would have found very helpful. I'm still at a loss on how to fix my stove. This video is defiantly for someone who has experience with DIY repairs.
I think my bake relay has failed. When I try the bake function, the broiler element comes on instead full blast.
Thnks
Why not use air to blow out the old solder
By chance, were the relays both the same part number? Thanks.
Good video BTW.
Thanks for posting this. Do you remember what relays you used? Did you suspect or replace the other relay, the black one?
John Delk I did not consider the black device as I confirmed the white relays were for bake and broil. I am not recalling what the black device was for.
What is the part number, what is the name of the supplyer
Looks like Digi-Key Part Number A109514-ND.
@@MFATubed may not be the relay you need.
Where did you buy the relay from?
What is the part number, what is the name of the supplyer
Looks like Digi-Key Part Number A109514-ND.
What he said!
Used a pencil type soldering tool and solder wick. Hardest part was seperating the circuit board. Once we figured out to squeeze center clips and pull straight up...the rest was easy. Broiler did not work. Changed the broil relay.
#COMMENT29
Get your hands down when you show the parts, man!! Only thing that was a clear shot was the circuit board.
Gawd, stop telling us for 5min what's your gonna do... And DO IT already.. so fustrating!!