Our oven is 11 years old 00:37 - EXACT same problem. Blobbed some solder on it and within minutes, the wife was cooking corn bread. THANK YOU!!! On the other hand, the front panel lights are a really bad design and all the little plastic tubes used to hold the lights in place AND 'conduct' the lights are broken. VERY BAD DESIGN. I'll save that for another day.
Send in this control board for repair: nickselectronics.com/products/5304495520 Have a different device for repair? leave us a comment or send us an email info@nickselectronicrepair.com 520-838-9359
You are a life saver Nick! I followed your excellent instructions (except for the additional soldering you did--my board looked fine). The oven works perfectly now. It’s an older stove but the oven doesn’t get a lot of use, so I am hopeful it will last for years. Again, thank you so much.
Today I got my soldering kit from Amazon. I had the same issue with my oven, it was a switch relay joint that had burned. I was able to fix myself with no soldering experience. Thank you so much for posting this video, you saved me money, time, and headaches. Your instructions were precise and to the point. My only issue was the melted lead when melting covered unevenly around the joint forming a bubble sphere. Would applying paste flux help the melt lead spread easier around the joint? Anyways my oven now works it's all what counts 😊
Been away for a while, lifes merry go round, taking care of things, lost my wife to a stroke, raising a 6 yr old with autism, no more TVs coming in, my computer shop guy went out of business. Still have a bunch to repair. I still see broken TVs for sale, I don't pay money for them. I accumulated some non op stereos and amps... I'm trying to get aquatinted will all kinds of stuff. There is plenty of it lying around to tinker with. TVs have gotten so cheap. I wish we had shops like yours around here.
It could have a more complex fault. If you still have problems with it after you install the repair kit, feel free to reach out to us directly via our contact email or fill out the contact form linked in the video description.
Super good video Nick thank you. I did the exact same repair on my Electrolux 3164627 board, one of the pins of the relay K1 (T9AV5L12-12) was losen. the relay works find and I resoldered in place. When I put the board back in the stove, the R1 resistor burned up as soon as I put it on Bake. before that I have had checked the conductivity and the ohms on all elements, all good. Do you have any clues on what should I check next . thank you
The R1 resistor burned up? I have fixed over 100 of these units, never have I encountered that. (edit, I have seen this several times it is actually common, I was thinking of a different controller board that doesn't have the R1 typical burn up) I am sorry but I don't know your level of soldering skills. When we get sent in boards for repair that have had failed repair attempts, we will often see the following types of mistakes: Sometimes people use too much solder, the solder will drip off their iron and land somewhere on the board, and bridge a few components without the person noticing. Did this perhaps happen? We also often see bridging of legs if you try reflowing 2 components near each other. Did you properly and fully put the unit back together before testing it or is it possible the 2 sides touched during your testing? Have you performed any short checks on the unit? Sometimes we do see shorted diodes, ICs, Transistors, and so on. Perhaps there is more damage to your unit. Although again I have never seen R1 burn up this is new for me. (edit, again I thought this was for a different controller board for some reason) If you want to send us pictures or get more help, it may be best to email us directly. My contact info is in the video description.
on my Frigidaire Range some of the display buttons work & some don't. The buttons used the most (bake, start, clear/off) don't work. Is this problem related to the overlay or the Electronic Control Board? Thanks for your time.
Yes that is most likely the overlay. It sometimes can be fixed but usually a new overlay needs to be purchased. They aren't always available unfortunately.
I found a LOT of cracked solder joints on some the old mini ovens, must be the heat from the oven. I saved one from the 80s, its a GE Omni 5, it has stainless steel interior, porcelain pan, it microwaves, and has top and bottom elements, I love it.
Yup I have seen some boards come in from whirlpool and they have so many cracked joints it actually seems impossible for the unit to have worked until it did given how bad some are.
I'm dealing with a Frigidaire FGIH3047VFB range that is about two years old. The entire right side of the control panel went out. Can't even get one burner control to do anything and the other one (rear) will turn on, but can't set + or -, so no heat. This is the side of the stove i use the most (long, multi hour boiling water type things going, cooking legumes and such). I figured the heat destroyed something. Was quoted $350 for a replacement part, but hoping to avoid that. Do you have any experience with this model?
This is the induction one correct? I have not had to repair one of these before as it is still very new and thus has not had many failures yet. But if the failure occurs again, and flipping the breaker doesn't resolve it I would recommend looking in the owners manual to factory reset it and if that till doesn't work, then reach out to us again. Would most likely need to have you send in that control panel for repair.
This happens often, and when it does, either I try and acquire a parts board for cheap on eBay or other retailer, if the part is not available, I will look for a different version of the board or different brand board that have similar circuits and designe and hopefully have the part I need. I have gotten pretty creative on that one in the past. Often if it's a passive component we can find a newer version of the component with better specs higher voltage or current rating but would be compatible and still work. If none of the above works, sadly we have to call it a no fix.
Hi Nick. I have a Kenmore oven with the identical frigidaire circuit board you repair in this video, except the faulty component on my board is the resistor in the R1 position. I don't have a "cheater board" to help identify the size of the resistor. I have VERY basic skills with electronics and would like to attempt the repair using the techniques you demonstrated. Are you able to assist identifying it? It's immediately next to the relay you replace in this video. It is shown briefly in your repair, I just can make out the colour bands. I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you!
It's quite literally the identical board that you repair in the video (You briefly show the Part Number). The part number for just the circuit board that needs repair is Electrolux P/N 3164627, but I think when paired with the board it's mounted to, the whole assembly becomes P/N 316462808, or something similar. @@NicksElectronicRepair
That's possible, we only have been fixing these for just under 1 year and I am not yet 100% familiar with all the naming conventions for the part numbers. My tech who works on these daily is much more knowledgeable on this than I am.
Hello, You can reach out to us directly via the email on our contact us page or fill out the form on the contact us page. For the link you can check the video description or follow the link below: nickselectronics.com/pages/contact
I have admit something, I made a boo boo on an AC board I fixed, the board was regulated by a 7805, but the relays were 12 volt, HUH?? the thing I found out, the relays had a driver chip that boosted the power and did all the switching. Live and learn.
@@NicksElectronicRepair 78XX are voltage regulators 7805 = 5 volt 7812 = 12 volt.....was a small air conditioner control board. They are sometimes on a heat sink, 3 pins, might mistake them for a transistor.
Oh interesting. Yeah I definitely have mistaken them for Transistors before instead of voltage regulators. I assume they are labeled as Q for the location ID probably right?
Originally it had a small transformer converting 120V AC to 9V DC, it fried, I got a 9 volt wall wart and bypassed the bridge rect str8 into the 7805, I goggled the IC later and discovered it was a 12 volt relay driver. DOH! it was a trash find anyway.
@@NicksElectronicRepair Hmm I never noticed what the board designation was, on stereos they usually have a row of them on a heat sink. 78XX for positive rails and 79XX for negative. LM317 are adjustable VRs you see them a lot in power supplies.
Here is a list of all the tools we use which you can get from amazon: Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3FQfyhG Solder: amzn.to/3qScy0d Desolder wick: amzn.to/33DAjjy Flux: amzn.to/42YWYBa FR301 Desolder pump: amzn.to/3IhTKzc
Nick my neighbours board failed last night. R1 burned up just as he shut off timer. Odd part everything still works as far as we tested without R1 in the circuit. We did have a momentary power failure earlier that day, maybe 2 seconds. Could that power failure be a contributing factor?
It perhaps had a factor but typically a power outage doesn't cause problems. Was there perhaps a power surge just before the outage? If so then that could have caused an issue. Did any other electrical or electronics that were also plugged in at the time affected? If not then it may just be a coincidence.
Probably coincidence as my house was okay. So quick that two clocks lost time, the one on our stove was fine. Just that it burned the r1 like the other commenter. Great video I am a new subscriber now.
@@adsbadsb9488 Tree fell on my power line but everything I own is surge protected, the surge came up the DSL line, fried my gateway. I walked in my house and could smell the burnt components, as a tech you get real sensitive to that smell, ATT sent me a new one right away. Had a friend yrs ago take a lightening hit on the street light in front of his house, next day his TV, VCR, and microwave were on the curb, I loaded them up and took em home, fixed all three.
That's a good story! I feel like most power surges that affect electronics, at least that I have noticed do come in via the internet. We have repaired many TV mainboards that had the surge travel through the ethernet cable, and damage the processors.
Not sure if it's Orange Red Brown Gold (320 ohm) or if it's the same resistor you replace in your video "Burned Frigidaire Oven Control Board" Red Red Brown Gold (220 ohm). Reading other comments, this appears to be a common fault. Ours burned up after using the self cleaning function.
Yes usually it's 220 ohms. If you do replace it, make sure you resolded all the joints for all relays and pins to all wire connectors. The reason the resistor blew in the first place is because the relay had a bad joint most likely.
Yes. I did pick up on that in your video. Even if I was able to identify the resistor I needed to replace (unlikely) and replaced it successfully, I would never have known the cause of it's failure and most certainly would have just fried the new resistor. As it is, it I followed your tutorials, re-installed the circuit board and the oven is working again. Not only does my family not have money to waste unnecessarily, I don't have an appetite for filling landfills with appliances over $0.12 electrical components because the repair costs are almost as high as replacing the aged appliance. Thank you very much for your videos as well as your personal response. Your help is greatly appreciated.@@NicksElectronicRepair
What causes the burn is arcing from the cracked solder joint. What causes a crack solder joint? Different thermal expansion coefficients between the PCB the solder and the relay pins. So when the unit is on and has power going through it, everything in the area heats up. When things heat up they expand but because they are different materials they expand at different rates. When they contract as they cool down, they also do so at different rates. This contraction and expansion at different rates will cause micro-fractures to the solder joint. Over time the cracks become larger and larger to the point where there is visually a gap and power can't go through anymore. So sometimes it arcs. When that happens the joint gets very very hot very quick and will cause spikes in power draw. Hope this helps
@@NicksElectronicRepair thank you for your response. Very clear and easy to understand. Your video saved our family hundreds of dollars. We really appreciate your help.
You have to really clean the connection well, all the arcing and burning oxidizes the solder and new solder will not adhere, it may look like it does but it won't last,. I've seen joints that looked fine but the solder was actually hollow,.
Yup absolutely! That's also one of the reasons it's a good idea when ever you have a burned cracked joint to 100% remove all the old solder or at least as close to 100% as you can and put all fresh solder. I have seen people just add more new solder ontop of the old burned solder before. Not great.
Hello Nick I own CircuitBoardMechanic and I would like to send you any of our control board repair kit that you need for free if you will feature one of them in one of your videos. if you need a control board, I have a whole pile of them that I can send you that need to be rebuilt
I'm more comfortable with appliances, but back then boards were not common, fixed microwaves by the 1000s in the 80s. ROACHES and more ROACHES!! Oh yea, that reminds me, an AC board I worked on, had 12 volt relays, but a 7805 supplied the board...I was like huh..that ain't right, I learned later that there is a relay driver that converts the voltage up to 12, live and learn.
Yeah, you only see these types of electronics in the newer units. The very new units get a little intense. I am a big fan of the one in this video, it's the perfect balance of passive components for me haha. And also roaches are the worst. We get a few units in here and there with tons of roaches all over and it's just gross. We charge a none non-refundable cleaning fee when that happens. Yeah, I think we are going to start working on AC boards, they typically don't have too many difficult parts to fix, sometimes bad capacitors, and similar cracked joints on relays and connectors although I don't have too much experience yet with Air conditioning units.
Our oven is 11 years old
00:37 - EXACT same problem.
Blobbed some solder on it and within minutes,
the wife was cooking corn bread.
THANK YOU!!!
On the other hand, the front panel lights are
a really bad design and all the little plastic
tubes used to hold the lights in place AND
'conduct' the lights are broken.
VERY BAD DESIGN.
I'll save that for another day.
Send in this control board for repair: nickselectronics.com/products/5304495520
Have a different device for repair?
leave us a comment or send us an email
info@nickselectronicrepair.com
520-838-9359
You are a life saver Nick! I followed your excellent instructions (except for the additional soldering you did--my board looked fine). The oven works perfectly now.
It’s an older stove but the oven doesn’t get a lot of use, so I am hopeful it will last for years.
Again, thank you so much.
Glad I could help!
Today I got my soldering kit from Amazon. I had the same issue with my oven, it was a switch relay joint that had burned. I was able to fix myself with no soldering experience. Thank you so much for posting this video, you saved me money, time, and headaches. Your instructions were precise and to the point. My only issue was the melted lead when melting covered unevenly around the joint forming a bubble sphere. Would applying paste flux help the melt lead spread easier around the joint? Anyways my oven now works it's all what counts 😊
Yes the flux will help you get a better flow of the solder and better connection. I would recommend it.
Been away for a while, lifes merry go round, taking care of things, lost my wife to a stroke, raising a 6 yr old with autism, no more TVs coming in, my computer shop guy went out of business. Still have a bunch to repair. I still see broken TVs for sale, I don't pay money for them. I accumulated some non op stereos and amps... I'm trying to get aquatinted will all kinds of stuff. There is plenty of it lying around to tinker with. TVs have gotten so cheap. I wish we had shops like yours around here.
Great video, just soldered mine back on, exact same thing. I ordered a repair kit just incase .
It could have a more complex fault. If you still have problems with it after you install the repair kit, feel free to reach out to us directly via our contact email or fill out the contact form linked in the video description.
@@NicksElectronicRepair its all fixed, really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Nice work!
Superb...very educative and informative...thank you..
Glad it was helpful!
Super good video Nick thank you. I did the exact same repair on my Electrolux 3164627 board, one of the pins of the relay K1 (T9AV5L12-12) was losen. the relay works find and I resoldered in place. When I put the board back in the stove, the R1 resistor burned up as soon as I put it on Bake. before that I have had checked the conductivity and the ohms on all elements, all good. Do you have any clues on what should I check next . thank you
The R1 resistor burned up? I have fixed over 100 of these units, never have I encountered that. (edit, I have seen this several times it is actually common, I was thinking of a different controller board that doesn't have the R1 typical burn up)
I am sorry but I don't know your level of soldering skills. When we get sent in boards for repair that have had failed repair attempts, we will often see the following types of mistakes: Sometimes people use too much solder, the solder will drip off their iron and land somewhere on the board, and bridge a few components without the person noticing. Did this perhaps happen?
We also often see bridging of legs if you try reflowing 2 components near each other.
Did you properly and fully put the unit back together before testing it or is it possible the 2 sides touched during your testing?
Have you performed any short checks on the unit? Sometimes we do see shorted diodes, ICs, Transistors, and so on. Perhaps there is more damage to your unit. Although again I have never seen R1 burn up this is new for me. (edit, again I thought this was for a different controller board for some reason)
If you want to send us pictures or get more help, it may be best to email us directly. My contact info is in the video description.
on my Frigidaire Range some of the display buttons work & some don't. The buttons used the most (bake, start, clear/off) don't work. Is this problem related to the overlay or the Electronic Control Board?
Thanks for your time.
Yes that is most likely the overlay. It sometimes can be fixed but usually a new overlay needs to be purchased. They aren't always available unfortunately.
I found a LOT of cracked solder joints on some the old mini ovens, must be the heat from the oven. I saved one from the 80s, its a GE Omni 5, it has stainless steel interior, porcelain pan, it microwaves, and has top and bottom elements, I love it.
Yup I have seen some boards come in from whirlpool and they have so many cracked joints it actually seems impossible for the unit to have worked until it did given how bad some are.
I'm dealing with a Frigidaire FGIH3047VFB range that is about two years old. The entire right side of the control panel went out. Can't even get one burner control to do anything and the other one (rear) will turn on, but can't set + or -, so no heat. This is the side of the stove i use the most (long, multi hour boiling water type things going, cooking legumes and such). I figured the heat destroyed something. Was quoted $350 for a replacement part, but hoping to avoid that. Do you have any experience with this model?
I flipped the circuit breaker and it works again... (breaker was fine, not tripped)
This is the induction one correct?
I have not had to repair one of these before as it is still very new and thus has not had many failures yet. But if the failure occurs again, and flipping the breaker doesn't resolve it I would recommend looking in the owners manual to factory reset it and if that till doesn't work, then reach out to us again. Would most likely need to have you send in that control panel for repair.
what do you do if a part you need is no longer manufactured and you don't have a parts board with the part you need?
This happens often, and when it does, either I try and acquire a parts board for cheap on eBay or other retailer, if the part is not available, I will look for a different version of the board or different brand board that have similar circuits and designe and hopefully have the part I need. I have gotten pretty creative on that one in the past.
Often if it's a passive component we can find a newer version of the component with better specs higher voltage or current rating but would be compatible and still work.
If none of the above works, sadly we have to call it a no fix.
Hi Nick. I have a Kenmore oven with the identical frigidaire circuit board you repair in this video, except the faulty component on my board is the resistor in the R1 position. I don't have a "cheater board" to help identify the size of the resistor. I have VERY basic skills with electronics and would like to attempt the repair using the techniques you demonstrated. Are you able to assist identifying it? It's immediately next to the relay you replace in this video. It is shown briefly in your repair, I just can make out the colour bands. I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you!
Please provide the part number of the control board but yes most likely it's 220 ohms.
It's quite literally the identical board that you repair in the video (You briefly show the Part Number). The part number for just the circuit board that needs repair is Electrolux P/N 3164627, but I think when paired with the board it's mounted to, the whole assembly becomes P/N 316462808, or something similar. @@NicksElectronicRepair
That's possible, we only have been fixing these for just under 1 year and I am not yet 100% familiar with all the naming conventions for the part numbers. My tech who works on these daily is much more knowledgeable on this than I am.
Hi, I need my oven connectors repaired , as seen on this video. How do u work?
Hello,
You can reach out to us directly via the email on our contact us page or fill out the form on the contact us page. For the link you can check the video description or follow the link below:
nickselectronics.com/pages/contact
I have admit something, I made a boo boo on an AC board I fixed, the board was regulated by a 7805, but the relays were 12 volt, HUH?? the thing I found out, the relays had a driver chip that boosted the power and did all the switching. Live and learn.
What is a 7805? What board was this?
@@NicksElectronicRepair 78XX are voltage regulators 7805 = 5 volt 7812 = 12 volt.....was a small air conditioner control board. They are sometimes on a heat sink, 3 pins, might mistake them for a transistor.
Oh interesting. Yeah I definitely have mistaken them for Transistors before instead of voltage regulators. I assume they are labeled as Q for the location ID probably right?
Originally it had a small transformer converting 120V AC to 9V DC, it fried, I got a 9 volt wall wart and bypassed the bridge rect str8 into the 7805, I goggled the IC later and discovered it was a 12 volt relay driver. DOH! it was a trash find anyway.
@@NicksElectronicRepair Hmm I never noticed what the board designation was, on stereos they usually have a row of them on a heat sink. 78XX for positive rails and 79XX for negative. LM317 are adjustable VRs you see them a lot in power supplies.
Hi Nick, i want to try to fix my control board. I just wonder what kind of iron and microscope are you using? Thanks!
Here is a list of all the tools we use which you can get from amazon:
Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3FQfyhG
Solder: amzn.to/3qScy0d
Desolder wick: amzn.to/33DAjjy
Flux: amzn.to/42YWYBa
FR301 Desolder pump: amzn.to/3IhTKzc
@@NicksElectronicRepair Thank you!
You are very welcome!
Nick my neighbours board failed last night. R1 burned up just as he shut off timer. Odd part everything still works as far as we tested without R1 in the circuit. We did have a momentary power failure earlier that day, maybe 2 seconds. Could that power failure be a contributing factor?
It perhaps had a factor but typically a power outage doesn't cause problems. Was there perhaps a power surge just before the outage? If so then that could have caused an issue. Did any other electrical or electronics that were also plugged in at the time affected? If not then it may just be a coincidence.
Probably coincidence as my house was okay. So quick that two clocks lost time, the one on our stove was fine.
Just that it burned the r1 like the other commenter. Great video I am a new subscriber now.
@@adsbadsb9488 Tree fell on my power line but everything I own is surge protected, the surge came up the DSL line, fried my gateway. I walked in my house and could smell the burnt components, as a tech you get real sensitive to that smell, ATT sent me a new one right away. Had a friend yrs ago take a lightening hit on the street light in front of his house, next day his TV, VCR, and microwave were on the curb, I loaded them up and took em home, fixed all three.
That's a good story!
I feel like most power surges that affect electronics, at least that I have noticed do come in via the internet. We have repaired many TV mainboards that had the surge travel through the ethernet cable, and damage the processors.
Not sure if it's Orange Red Brown Gold (320 ohm) or if it's the same resistor you replace in your video "Burned Frigidaire Oven Control Board" Red Red Brown Gold (220 ohm). Reading other comments, this appears to be a common fault. Ours burned up after using the self cleaning function.
Yes usually it's 220 ohms. If you do replace it, make sure you resolded all the joints for all relays and pins to all wire connectors. The reason the resistor blew in the first place is because the relay had a bad joint most likely.
Yes. I did pick up on that in your video. Even if I was able to identify the resistor I needed to replace (unlikely) and replaced it successfully, I would never have known the cause of it's failure and most certainly would have just fried the new resistor. As it is, it I followed your tutorials, re-installed the circuit board and the oven is working again. Not only does my family not have money to waste unnecessarily, I don't have an appetite for filling landfills with appliances over $0.12 electrical components because the repair costs are almost as high as replacing the aged appliance. Thank you very much for your videos as well as your personal response. Your help is greatly appreciated.@@NicksElectronicRepair
Happy to help!
I had the same issue on my board, what causes the burning of the pin?
What causes the burn is arcing from the cracked solder joint.
What causes a crack solder joint? Different thermal expansion coefficients between the PCB the solder and the relay pins. So when the unit is on and has power going through it, everything in the area heats up. When things heat up they expand but because they are different materials they expand at different rates. When they contract as they cool down, they also do so at different rates. This contraction and expansion at different rates will cause micro-fractures to the solder joint. Over time the cracks become larger and larger to the point where there is visually a gap and power can't go through anymore. So sometimes it arcs. When that happens the joint gets very very hot very quick and will cause spikes in power draw.
Hope this helps
@@NicksElectronicRepair thank you for your response. Very clear and easy to understand. Your video saved our family hundreds of dollars. We really appreciate your help.
You have to really clean the connection well, all the arcing and burning oxidizes the solder and new solder will not adhere, it may look like it does but it won't last,. I've seen joints that looked fine but the solder was actually hollow,.
Yup absolutely!
That's also one of the reasons it's a good idea when ever you have a burned cracked joint to 100% remove all the old solder or at least as close to 100% as you can and put all fresh solder. I have seen people just add more new solder ontop of the old burned solder before. Not great.
Hello Nick I own CircuitBoardMechanic and I would like to send you any of our control board repair kit that you need for free if you will feature one of them in one of your videos. if you need a control board, I have a whole pile of them that I can send you that need to be rebuilt
I would like to sponsor every appliance board video that I could with a free repair kit if I could get a plug on each one of the videos.
I appreciate it but I don't think we would be interested.
I don't really believe in repair kits.
I'm more comfortable with appliances, but back then boards were not common, fixed microwaves by the 1000s in the 80s. ROACHES and more ROACHES!! Oh yea, that reminds me, an AC board I worked on, had 12 volt relays, but a 7805 supplied the board...I was like huh..that ain't right, I learned later that there is a relay driver that converts the voltage up to 12, live and learn.
Yeah, you only see these types of electronics in the newer units. The very new units get a little intense. I am a big fan of the one in this video, it's the perfect balance of passive components for me haha.
And also roaches are the worst. We get a few units in here and there with tons of roaches all over and it's just gross. We charge a none non-refundable cleaning fee when that happens.
Yeah, I think we are going to start working on AC boards, they typically don't have too many difficult parts to fix, sometimes bad capacitors, and similar cracked joints on relays and connectors although I don't have too much experience yet with Air conditioning units.