THANK YOU!!!! My parents' Kenmore oven (790.9503) had stopped working. My dad could see that the oven coil was getting power but nothing was happening. We could hear the relay clicking as you described. After watching your video we were able to find the problem and fix it--two of the connections were black. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE THE VIDEO AND POST IT!
BTW, we had a little problem at first, which was that the buttons didn't work. This was because when we put the computer back together, the back circuit board was slightly out of place. Our fault. Just mentioning it in case anyone else does the same thing.
Matt, 8 years after you posted this video it is still helping folks. Thank you! Our oven bake element stopped working this week, I found your video and found the same issue on my board. A quick solder fix and touch up on the other relays and it is good as new.
Absolutely brilliant... we have a Kenmore range that is only three years old. Out of the blue the oven stops working but the stove burners still worked. Viewed your video and followed the steps... although control panel was a little different (had two stacked together), I dismantled and saw the exact same solder issue that you identified. Took me no more than 30 minutes from start to finish, it fixed my problem, saved me $500+ and the hassle of looking for a new oven! Thanks so much for the great video!!
This seems to be happening to a lot of people. Solder joints aren't supposed to un-solder themselves, which has me a little worried. But at least we know where to look first next time it happens.
Matt DeRoller Agreed... It almost looked liked there wasn't sufficient solder to begin with... it was hallow all around the pin. Maybe planned obsolescence? Or really bad quality control... if any.
Am I ever glad I saw your video. I had the same problem with my Kenmore Elite Electric Range Model 970-698180. Was going to have Sears replace the Electronic Control Board # 316272200 which costs $361 in Canada (and this doesn't include the Sears installation fee or taxes) when I saw this youtube and fixed it by soldering. Thanks for saving me what I estimate over $500 Sears Canada would charge to fix. Now I am going to use the extra cash to get my driveway paved!
WOW.....BAM. Thanks so much for this video. Oven went out for Super Bowl Sunday, did some basic troubleshooting, and called a Tech. While I waited for 24 hours, I did some research and almost had heart failure when I found out they don't make parts for this unit anymore and a replacement size (40") was $4-$6k. Tech came, diagnosed the board was shot, said he could possibly repair it in a few weeks, and I paid the bill for $90. Using the Model Number he left for me (I couldn't locate it earlier) I googled it and found your video. It was as easy as a 10-piece jigsaw puzzle. Took me 30 minutes to repair it. Great job - thank you.
Just like the other posters, we are forever in your debt!! The fix was precisely the same as you featured and we are back in business!!! (I also credit my awesome and tenacious husband for never giving up....but your video was just the thing he needed to see!) Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU Matt DeRoller!
Our oven did the exact same thing and your repair video worked like a charm! Thank you so much!We battled with Sears over this and unfortunately lost the battle so this saved us A TON of money in repair service or quite possibly saved us from having to purchase a new oven. Wish I could bake for you to show you our appreciation! Thanks again!
Lenny My grand son and I just followed your instructions in this video and the stove is up and running. You cannot believe the relief we have versus the issues of not running. Thanks so much for your instructions.
This was a God send! After paying a Sears repair man $100 to tell me it couldn't be fixed because the control board replacement part isn't available any longer and that I'd have to buy a new range, I googled to try to locate the part myself and eventually stumbled upon your video. I shared it with my husband and with a borrowed solder gun from a neighbor it was fixed in less than 30 mins. Because this size range (40 inch width) isn't a standard width it would have cost me either $8,000 to buy a custom sized range or thousands of dollars to modify my cabinets and granite counter tops to modify the space to a standard size range. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!!
Same range. Sample problem. Same fix to the exact same solder joint. Works perfectly. Just think of how many thousands of dollars and how much grief you have saved so many people. You rock for posting this!
Matt I cannot say thank you enough for posting this video. We bought our house in 2012 and the appliances looked so beautiful we couldn't believe this house was in our budget... however slowly but surely each one began to crap out! First washing machine then dishwasher then our beautiful oven! After totally replacing our washing machine I thought I'd search for an answer on the other two. The oven posed a problem because I had a sears representative out who said at minimum it would cost 500 to send panel out to be looked at (they no longer make replacement panel) and that may not be the answer either! After about 2 years of only using side oven, I RUclips again and thank god came across your video! It worked!!!! Thanks a million!!
I'm glad it worked. This range is no longer available from Sears, but the basic parts are still available (except the controller). I hope we can keep it working a while longer.
This was my problem also. The part on my model number is a sears repairman installed part only. If you have this problem it will save you $300 or $400. I took my control module a part a little bit differently. Everything on this repair is easy. Great job Matt DeRoller. Many thanks.
PANDEMIC SAVE, THANK YOU!!! Our bake element blew out just before the pandemic, and I replaced it. It worked for like 2 months, and then died again. We lived without an oven for like 6 months , and then I said, "enough is enough!" I pulled it out, debugged it for like 14 hours, traced lines, lost more hair - nothing made sense! I was about to give up, and started getting sad that parts weren't available, or I'd have to send the board in for repair... and then... stumbled here. I pulled the board apart, and sure enough - bingo! Bad solder joint. 30 seconds to fix, no joke. I agree with you about the design flaw. Especially since you can't get to the PCB without completely dismantling the oven, pulling it out from the wall. What an ginormous PITA that was. I'm off to go bake something now. Thanks!
I have a Frigidaire Duel Fuel 40" that is of the same design as your oven and the broiler stopped working recently. I used the knowledge you shared in your video to make the same soldering fix today. It took about 15 minutes for the whole operation, and the broiler works properly again. I appreciate you taking the time to make the video! You have saved me a lot of time and money!
Matt,.......thanks again for the refresher. As I said it's been over 5 years since I made this repair and the oven just started acting up again with the bottom element not working and a F1 error code. It's funny how you can forget what you did 5years ago so your video was very helpful. I had my doubts that lightning could strike twice however I found another failed solder joint. I soldered the terminal and re-soldered my first repair from 5 years ago as a preventive measure. I'm beginning to think this is a design flaw or that the original solder joints are inferior. The GREAT NEWS is it's working great now. I'm not going to lie I did some praying as well because right here at Christmas would have been a terrible expense to replace the stove. So...., thank you Jesus, and thank you Matt.
Matt, I have a different model Elite, and can I just say Thank you, Thank you!! I opened the board to find exactly what you saw. Wife is happy... and she said we might even "cook" tonight. !!!
Matt for President! Lower heating element in Kenmore Elite stopped working the day before Christmas. Wife freaked (rightfully so!), was ready to call Sears repair (or buy a new stove!), and spend gobs of my hard earned money to get this resolved. Out of desperation, I googled the issue and found Saint Matt's video. All I can say is a sincere thank you! I saw the exact same issue as soon as I took apart the control board, ran out last night and bought a $10 soldering iron and just completed my first ever solder repair this AM, and happy to report the oven is once again working! There are not too many people that I hold in higher regard right now. Amazing that this would have cost at a minimum of several hundred dollars if I had called any repair person. That was a very selfless act to take the time to post this so others can benefit. Thank you thank you thank you Matt, you saved Christmas just in the nick of time!
You're welcome. Seems like a common problem. A burned out solder joint is not good, and makes me think this will happen again. But at least I'll know where to look first next time.
Amazing feeling knowing we fixed such a large appliance when others would have just thrown away....what else can I fix!! Thanks so much for taking the time to post, otherwise we would have been in a completely different situation.
Thank you, Matt, for taking the time to post this video. You just saved me from wasting $800+ on a new range. Found the same issue on my 10 year-old Frigidaire Gallery causing no broil or bake. Now all is working again!
Just wanted to take a moment to thank you. I had a repair technichian scheduled and happened upon your video. Followed your instructions and the exact same solder point had failed. Resoldered and we're back up and running.
Thank you Matt ... I was going to send it in to Core Centric .. Savings of 130.00. I don't have an iron . I took it down to a place . They charged me 20.00 for the solder job. Again many thanks!
I have the exact same model stove with the exact same issue. Sure enough when I looked at the solder it was the issue. Thank you very much for sharing this video. 40" stoves are very hard to find and this saved me from either replacing my stove with a model I didn't want due to limited selection or updating my kitchen.
THANK YOU!! Your video just saved me from having to buy a new oven. After taking my controller apart I found my solder burned out exactly like yours in the video. I had the solder repaired, popped the controller back in the oven and it works perfectly again. (I just wished i had seen this video before I paid my local repair guy $115 to tell me to buy a new oven.) Thanks again!
Just like the many people who have commented....THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!! Our oven had the exact same problem and my husband fixed it after watching your video in less than 30 minutes!! We really appreciate the time you took to post the video and how easy it was to follow! Thanks again !!!!
I have the exact same oven with the exact same problem, down to the solder joint. 14 screws and a re-solder later, my oven now gets to 350 in under 8 minutes. Sure beats a $200 "circuit board repair", let alone a $4000 replacement range. Thanks Matt!
THANK YOU!!! This part is no longer available for our Frigidaire version, and you have save us not only money to send it out for repairs, but now I can make Christmas Cookies with my daughters.! We would never have thought to open the circuit board like you did. THANK YOU AGAIN AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!
Last week my oven stop working. All the other functions work properly. Kenmore 2004 model# C970-635121 with a controller part# 318184400. After seeing this video I told myself why not try! After removal of the controller I have found a burning area on the circuit board. After cleaning I found the exact same burned out connection (pin) on the baking relay. I just did a little retouching of the welding and the oven is working again!!! For how long , I don't know but its working !!!! The controller here in Montreal is $260.00 up!!!! Thanks Mat for this informative video!!!!
Thanks so much for making this! I had the same problem: baking element not turning on. Broiler worked fine. I have been using the broiler to preheat the oven and then turning on the convection setting for over a year now. I was worried that I would need to replace the oven ECU. I took apart the ECU, I found the bad solder connection on the baking element relay. Simple fix.
Thank you for this video! You saved me $250 for a new control board. I took off the control board and low and behold there was a bad solder. I re-soldered it and now oven is working great!
Matt, Awesome video, thanks for posting! I tested all the components of my wall oven and they checked good. This was all that was left that could possibly be bad. I was going to send out for repair and I thought...what the heck, try it myself...worst case I still have to send out for repair. I very carefully separated the plastic like you did and wala...a blown solder joint. It blew the pc board hole a little bigger when it burned so I had to cut the wire off one side of an old diode and make a j-hook to wrap around the relay post, solder that point and solder to the board trace. Works good as new and also solved the problem of the temperature being inconsistant in the oven...this must have been arcing at this solder joint for quite a while. Anyone that knows how to solder properly can make this repair. Good luck!
I replaced both elements, and was waiting on a new thermostat, when I saw this video. Having the exact same symptoms. So I took my controller off, and sure enough, the exact solder joint on the exact relay. I soldered it, and it's working again! I have a Kenmore Elite Convection oven with glass top burners, with the exact same bake control panel.
Spent $25 on solder gun and saved $2,500 on new unit. Not sure why repair techs don't know about this or won't say anything. Thanks for doing the leg work.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I have had my Kenmore Duel Fuel stove for 10 years now and the same thing happened, wouldn't heat up. I was told to buy a new stove because the control board has been discontinued. Thank goodness this worked!!!
Can't thank you enough!! My Frigidaire Plcs389ecb oven purchased in 2006 had quit working. Testing made me suspect the control board which is no longer available. Although my oven is configured a bit different, the control board is identical. Long story short exact same problem. Re-soldered the pin...back in business.
Hi Matt, thanks for posting this, the bake element blew on our Kenmore (790 model) I fitted a new one but it didn't heat up, so after seeing your video I decided to have a look at the controller, sure enough one pin on the bake relay had the solder blown away from one pin, the circuit board damage was a lot worse then yours but I managed to fix it and bingo, it's now working again, you save me a bunch of money and hassle, thanks again.
I also am glad I stumbled on your video. I was about to pay $350 for a new control board. Instead I found the burned out relay connection and resoldered it and is working fine. If it goes again I will buy a $5 relay and replace that component. Thank you!!!
Matt....you save me a lot of money!!! I was 5 min away of buy a new board and I found your video. Previously i did a resistance test on the elements and there where fine, never tough about the relays. Thanks!
Followed the directions and got my oven back in business in a few hours. Even though it crapped out on Thanksgiving (after the bird was cooked but prior to the dessert getting baked) all is well now. I've repaired several items from RUclips information, including my SUV and my washer.
Wow! Just saved me a bundle, on a holiday weekend with a need to bake goodies for the party!!! My oven is the same as yours and had the exact same defect..Thanks to you, fixed in less than an hour.
I had the same problem with my Kenmore oven. I followed your instructions and fixed the bad solder connection on the relay. It's working now! Thanks for saving me a ton of money.
Matt, I have the Kenmore Elite Dual-Fuel 7907946 that was having the same issue. My circuit board looks a bit different but had the exact same issue of the relay on L2 output. Re-soldered it, and we are back up and running. Thank you for saving me countless hours of changing parts.
Nice work. I did the same repair on mine several years ago. Exact same control/clock module, even though my oven is a Frigidaire/Electrolux. Never saw your video until now, so I had to figure out the solution using much the same analysis process that you did. Your comment at the end about worrying why that solder joint blew out in the first place is well-taken. After a couple of years, another joint blew out for the broil element. The problem is that those and solder joints are not heavy enough to carry that heavy current to the elements. They should never have relied just on solder to carry heavy switched currents like that. To make the repair more permanent, they would need a crimped blade or a heavy screw terminal connection - something like that. For now, I tried my best to get the relay pin flat against the board pad and I added a larger amount of solder, to hopefully dissipate the heat and give more contact surface. It's been about 2 years and no more have blown out. Crossed fingers.
I see this video is from 5 years ago. But i just have to thank you!! This worked like a charm. Thanks for saving me 260$!! Merry Christmas my new friend.
Hello sir. This issue happened to me. I had no idea what was wrong until I searched for the oven and came across your article. It was 50/50 that this could even be the same issue but I felt it was coincidental enough to give it a look. Sure enough, the solder was burned through at the exact spot you showed. Also, there was another solder joint that looked "iffy" on a different relay. I was more concerned about the electrical burn soot that was all over the corresponding area on the front of the control board. (Which all wiped off btw). Well, long story short, I soldered those two connections and put everything back together. Still believing I had a 50/50 chance of repairing it. BINGO!! It worked like a charm. The oven came right up to temp. I want to thank you so much. I can't even imagine the heartache you've saved me. My best to you and yours sir.
Hey Matt, just wanted to say thanks for posting this video! I went through all the other preliminary steps of troubleshooting the "easier" things first with a multimeter i.e., continuity in the element itself and the actual temperature probe. Since they were both fine, the control board had to be the culprit. I found your video while trying to shop for a new control board--that they don't make anymore! Dropped a dollop of solder on the burnt out connection and wallah, working like a charm!
Sears just left a few hours ago, giving me the news that I need a new circuit board which they no longer make. Thank you for this video which fixed my oven! You have saved thanksgiving which is in 3 days!!!
THANK YOU MATT. YOUR VIDEO SHOWED THE SAME PROBLEM I HAD....FIXED IT AND IT WORKS FINE.MUST HAVE BEEN A FACTORY GOOF,THEY PULLED THIS CONTROL BOARD AND IT IS NO LONGER MADE.THANKS FOR SAVING ME MONEY ON A SEND AWAY REPAIR.THEY WANTED 175.00.TOOK ME 15 MIN AND A DROP OF SOLDER .THANKS AGAIN....................
Same thing happened with my parents stove, however we replaced the element first and then the temperature sensor then it was still not heating. My thought was to replace the relays but then saw your video! Just so everyone knows this controller is used in alot of ovens!
thank you so much for posting this, my oven had the exact same issue down to the single spot on the control board being burnt out. You are a life saver (or oven saver really) given that those control boards aren't made any more.
Holy cow matt!!! My friends range has all the knobs on the back, but the console was exactly the same. I took I took it apart and it looked okay, though the SAME place you solder looked a lil big different. I did not have a solder gun, so I went with a bet it was the temp sensor. Got one, talked to the guy at that appliance store who checked my heating element and it was working. Got home, installed the temp sensor and PRESTO....it didn't work. Soooo, I went back and checked the points on the relay again. Now funny thing, the first time, I did not have my glasses on. I lost them in Idaho, or so I thought. After I put the baby back, I found the glasses in my hood. I was changing a headlight in Idaho and I must have laid the glasses down. NOW, I take out the control box again, crack it open and PRESTO....YOU WERE RIGHT. It was burned out. I soldered that baby back and the oven lit up like a one legged lady leg lamp! I am shocked...the exact issue...it's 2016, you published this in 2013 and the exact point went out on this range also. Maybe someone at the factory was sleeping that day? so odd! Thanks for the video, I never would have figured it out without your instructions. PEACE!!!
Matt, Thanks for this! First of all, it helped me make certain that this was the problem. Second of all, it helped me figure out how to get my old unit apart to get the pegs out for the push buttons. I would agree with you that this appears to be a flaw in the system for everyone to be having this issue... I realize warranty is up, but looks like a manufacturing issue since it is identical for most everyone!
Matt. Can't thank you enough. I have the exact same oven and had the exact problem with the lower bake element. Took the control board apart and . . . there it was, a broken solder joint. Re-soldered and the oven works great. Thanks a million.
Matt, after reviewing your video a second time and paying attention I saw where you clearly discussed and showed how you opened the controller. As you and other have stated, the solder joint in the bake element heater relay was bad. All other solder joints looked good. Thanks for you video. one tip for others which is obvious but it took me a while to figure out using a flashlight. Pry open the circuit board from the side opposite the conductors going to the lower circuit board. The connectors act like a hinge when lifting up the exposed circuit board. Here are some mort tips for others who are trying to trouble shoot: heating elements, 10 to 50 ohms; thermostat oven heat ~1090 ohms at 75 deg F, 1450 at 250 F, 1650 at 350 F. Voltage across a good bake relay (yellow to black L1) should be 0 volts when energized. Voltage across the broiler element relay ((light blue to black L1) should also be 0 volts when energized. Line voltage of 240 volts indicates the relay is open and possibly bad.
Matt you are da' MAN! Oven went out on us today the day before Easter how convenient? ! But thanks to you we are rocking and rolling again with no money out of pocket! Thank you and God bless you for sharing this solution. Happy Easter!
Thank you Matt, I have a Frigidaire with the same issue. After couple of hours trying to figure it out i gave up and i was willing to pay $120.00 to have mine repair till i saw your video i repeat it the steps and of course it works. Thank you !!!
Thank you, we started our Christmas cookie preparations and the oven stopped at 195 degrees and wouldn't heat anymore. The broiler was also not working and no replacement available so came across this video and was able to solder two connections on the relays and it is working now.
Hey Matt, I just wanted to say thank you! I realize it's been a while since you posted this, but this was EXACTLY the same problem that we were experiencing with our Kenmore Elite oven. Great guide and thank you so very much for posting and sharing this with everyone. All the best sir, Rob
Saw this and mine looked the same way . I did same thing you did and it works. The part is no longer available to buy. Boy this saved me a ton of money!! Thank you for your video
Hi Matt. Your video gave me great confidence I could tackle repairing my Fridgedair 318010102 control board. And I am grateful for the learning opportunity. My board had stopped working with a burning smell and had gone dark. When I took my board apart I found a big hole beneath one of the pins in the bake relay and signs of significant burning including a couple of pcb gold threads which had been exposed and broken. Not to be discouraged I wired around the broken threads and used fairly heavy copper wire to connect the relay pin to other pin connections on its pcb plate. But this repair did not work. With a little more research I found a video on "hidden thermal fuses in small transformers" and in the detail comments I found advice to check a small zener diode on the board that could also be bad. So I removed the transformer, found the embedded thermal fuse, verified that it had blown, and ordered some replacements including the zener diode on DigiKey (which also has replacement 9v relays for the board). Now having replaced the thermal fuse and the zener diode I tried my "repaired" control board again and it is still dead. I've retested the transformer to find it putting out 39.2 volts on its secondary which is surprising since a repair kit I ordered contained 9 volt relays. Needless to say the transformer is no longer available. I could really use some further advice particularly from someone who has successfully diagnosed and repaired this board beyond the level of depth you have covered so far.
I have the same stove with the same issue. It would get to 170 degrees and just stop. I looked at the board and it was the same spot that was burnt out on the board. I re-soldered it and it works perfectly now. THANK YOU SO MUCH! :D
I have the electric/electric model of this same unit.The lower element in the oven was cold to the touch but the broiler was working fine, I followed your video and sure enough the soldering joint was identical. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks for doing this video Matt. I have a different model Kenmore Elite range but it was an identical issue with a leg of one relay's solder being the issue. Made it 10 years till this issue and hopefully another 10 now. Simple fix and great job instructing on how to go about it.
My Kenmore Elite Dual-Fuel oven started acting the same way last night. Your video was the first one I found and the only one I watched this morning. When I took my oven apart the bad solder joint was on the transformer though. Cleaned it up and soldered it and it works fine now. Thanks for sharing this! By the way, those pesky black plastic clips that sandwich the circuit cards together gave me a few minutes of grief until I figured out you just pull the keepers out of the center first with a tweezers, then you can squeeze the clips to free the circuit card.
Is there anyway you can post a picture or describe better how to get those pesky black plastic clips off. I am having a heck of a time. Thanks in advance.
thank you for explaining this repair so well. I have the Frigidaire duel fuel and had a similar problem, but with the broiler. thinking it was the element I bought a new one, $42 from online site. Still the upper element didn't work. called Sears, mechanic came, charged me $75 to tell me to buy a new board. the board is no longer being manufactured, so he told me to buy a refurbished one for 150, with no guarantee! my husband said, just get a new relay for the broiler! But, I like your idea better. If the solder is no good, try soldering first. great suggestion and great video. thank you.
Matt Just to repeat what many have already said I can't thank you enough My Frigidaire 40" dual fuel range same problem, YOUR solution, works perfectly now I also ordered a spare relay just in case Thanks again
Thank you for posting this video! We have the same unit and just ran into the same problem this last week. With some googling, your video came up. Thank you for taking time to document your work. We were able to do the repair ourselves, and oh it feels so good! God bless!
Thank you so much for this video! After some initial troubleshooting to narrow down my problem to the logic board, I came across your video and it was the exact same issue. A quick soldering job and everything is working again. You helped my save a minimum of $300 to replace the control unit. Thanks again!
Thank you so much! Had same issue and found your video on a search. Same problem, quick to fix. Wouldn't have known what to look for if it wasn't for your video. Thanks again!!
Thank you, Thank you. I had the exact same problem with my Kenmore Duel Fuel. Thanks to videos by you and Paul Roberts we were able to fix the problem in a jiffy. Thank you again.
I'll add my voice to the chorus of thanks-- we had exactly the same problem, and this was spot on. We were back up and and baking in under an hour! Beer's on me if you ever find yourself in St Louis.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!! I was nervous to do this myself but managed beautifully thanks to your instruction. My oven works once again. Not sure why this is happening to this particular make and model. You saved me a lot of money!
Thank you so much for this video. Kenmore oven with no power to elements. Similar looking relays. Melted solder on relay pin. Each black tab holding the board is 2 pieces. Use tweezers to squeeze and pull the center clip out. Then squeeze the ramps together. Neat.
dude if you ever find yourself in central MA, I'll buy you dinner, this saved me a lot of money, exact same problem! Thanks! Apparently the kenmore elite control boards have a fairly common problem with this based on all the comments.
THANK YOU!!!! I had the same exact problem and I opened up the control box and saw EXACTLY the same burn out connection. I put a little solder on it and it worked on the first try.
I'm glad it helped. Makes me wonder what's going on with this controller, seeing so many people are having the same problem. And is just re-soldering the joint going to last, or will you have to do this again?
Not to bash Kenmore too much, my GE above-cooktop microwave oven did the same thing, on either relay or a rectifier. A simple solder job had it working. For those now willing to solder their boards, Adam The Answerman in Plano, TX will get you a part for less, generally.
Thank you so much for this video!!! Had the same exact problem and didn't know where else to look... well, the same thing happened to us, you saved us a bunch of money plus they don't make that part anymore!!! Thank You!!!
Thanks for the video, Matt. I had the exact same click and the bum contact on a three year old stove. Fixed with a soldering iron in a few minutes. Good to know about the availability of the relays.
I have a Kenmore oven and earlier this week the lower element stopped working. I found many videos but when I watched yours I realized I had the same controller, with the same symptoms. Could it be the same issue? Couldn’t believe it, exact same solder point! I soldered mine same as yours and voila! Fixed! Thank you so much for posting! BTW, my wife is upset with you, she wanted a new stove :)
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! It worked, I had the same issue, just one solder that had gone bad...back up and running without a costly repair, can't thank you enough!
I wonder about that too. It could be this solder joint heats up to the point where it un-solders itself. Which it's not supposed to do. And also means this will happen again.
THANK YOU!!!! My parents' Kenmore oven (790.9503) had stopped working. My dad could see that the oven coil was getting power but nothing was happening. We could hear the relay clicking as you described. After watching your video we were able to find the problem and fix it--two of the connections were black. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE THE VIDEO AND POST IT!
BTW, we had a little problem at first, which was that the buttons didn't work. This was because when we put the computer back together, the back circuit board was slightly out of place. Our fault. Just mentioning it in case anyone else does the same thing.
Matt, 8 years after you posted this video it is still helping folks. Thank you! Our oven bake element stopped working this week, I found your video and found the same issue on my board. A quick solder fix and touch up on the other relays and it is good as new.
Absolutely brilliant... we have a Kenmore range that is only three years old. Out of the blue the oven stops working but the stove burners still worked. Viewed your video and followed the steps... although control panel was a little different (had two stacked together), I dismantled and saw the exact same solder issue that you identified. Took me no more than 30 minutes from start to finish, it fixed my problem, saved me $500+ and the hassle of looking for a new oven! Thanks so much for the great video!!
This seems to be happening to a lot of people. Solder joints aren't supposed to un-solder themselves, which has me a little worried. But at least we know where to look first next time it happens.
Matt DeRoller Agreed... It almost looked liked there wasn't sufficient solder to begin with... it was hallow all around the pin. Maybe planned obsolescence? Or really bad quality control... if any.
Am I ever glad I saw your video. I had the same problem with my Kenmore Elite Electric Range Model 970-698180. Was going to have Sears replace the Electronic Control Board # 316272200 which costs $361 in Canada (and this doesn't include the Sears installation fee or taxes) when I saw this youtube and fixed it by soldering. Thanks for saving me what I estimate over $500 Sears Canada would charge to fix. Now I am going to use the extra cash to get my driveway paved!
WOW.....BAM. Thanks so much for this video. Oven went out for Super Bowl Sunday, did some basic troubleshooting, and called a Tech. While I waited for 24 hours, I did some research and almost had heart failure when I found out they don't make parts for this unit anymore and a replacement size (40") was $4-$6k. Tech came, diagnosed the board was shot, said he could possibly repair it in a few weeks, and I paid the bill for $90. Using the Model Number he left for me (I couldn't locate it earlier) I googled it and found your video. It was as easy as a 10-piece jigsaw puzzle. Took me 30 minutes to repair it. Great job - thank you.
Just like the other posters, we are forever in your debt!! The fix was precisely the same as you featured and we are back in business!!! (I also credit my awesome and tenacious husband for never giving up....but your video was just the thing he needed to see!) Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU Matt DeRoller!
Our oven did the exact same thing and your repair video worked like a charm! Thank you so much!We battled with Sears over this and unfortunately lost the battle so this saved us A TON of money in repair service or quite possibly saved us from having to purchase a new oven. Wish I could bake for you to show you our appreciation! Thanks again!
Lenny
My grand son and I just followed your instructions in this video and the stove is up and running. You cannot believe the relief we have versus the issues of not running. Thanks so much for your instructions.
This was a God send! After paying a Sears repair man $100 to tell me it couldn't be fixed because the control board replacement part isn't available any longer and that I'd have to buy a new range, I googled to try to locate the part myself and eventually stumbled upon your video. I shared it with my husband and with a borrowed solder gun from a neighbor it was fixed in less than 30 mins. Because this size range (40 inch width) isn't a standard width it would have cost me either $8,000 to buy a custom sized range or thousands of dollars to modify my cabinets and granite counter tops to modify the space to a standard size range. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!!
Hi, glad it worked!
Anyone else reading this just know the part is still available on part websites for $170 as of 1-11-20
I found a used one on ebay for $50 for mine after seeing they wanted 260$ for a new part
Same range. Sample problem. Same fix to the exact same solder joint. Works perfectly. Just think of how many thousands of dollars and how much grief you have saved so many people. You rock for posting this!
Matt I cannot say thank you enough for posting this video. We bought our house in 2012 and the appliances looked so beautiful we couldn't believe this house was in our budget... however slowly but surely each one began to crap out! First washing machine then dishwasher then our beautiful oven! After totally replacing our washing machine I thought I'd search for an answer on the other two. The oven posed a problem because I had a sears representative out who said at minimum it would cost 500 to send panel out to be looked at (they no longer make replacement panel) and that may not be the answer either! After about 2 years of only using side oven, I RUclips again and thank god came across your video! It worked!!!! Thanks a million!!
I'm glad it worked. This range is no longer available from Sears, but the basic parts are still available (except the controller). I hope we can keep it working a while longer.
This was my problem also. The part on my model number is a sears repairman installed part only. If you have this problem it will save you $300 or $400. I took my control module a part a little bit differently. Everything on this repair is easy. Great job Matt DeRoller. Many thanks.
PANDEMIC SAVE, THANK YOU!!!
Our bake element blew out just before the pandemic, and I replaced it. It worked for like 2 months, and then died again. We lived without an oven for like 6 months , and then I said, "enough is enough!" I pulled it out, debugged it for like 14 hours, traced lines, lost more hair - nothing made sense! I was about to give up, and started getting sad that parts weren't available, or I'd have to send the board in for repair... and then... stumbled here.
I pulled the board apart, and sure enough - bingo! Bad solder joint. 30 seconds to fix, no joke.
I agree with you about the design flaw. Especially since you can't get to the PCB without completely dismantling the oven, pulling it out from the wall. What an ginormous PITA that was.
I'm off to go bake something now. Thanks!
9 years latter and you're still helping us fix stuff.had the same problem, needed the same repair.THANK YOU.
What a great video!
I have a Frigidaire Duel Fuel 40" that is of the same design as your oven and the broiler stopped working recently. I used the knowledge you shared in your video to make the same soldering fix today. It took about 15 minutes for the whole operation, and the broiler works properly again. I appreciate you taking the time to make the video! You have saved me a lot of time and money!
Can’t believe it. Same exact problem. Never soldered before, bought one for $16 and it worked. You are the man. Thank god I found this video.
Matt,.......thanks again for the refresher. As I said it's been over 5 years since I made this repair and the oven just started acting up again with the bottom element not working and a F1 error code. It's funny how you can forget what you did 5years ago so your video was very helpful. I had my doubts that lightning could strike twice however I found another failed solder joint. I soldered the terminal and re-soldered my first repair from 5 years ago as a preventive measure. I'm beginning to think this is a design flaw or that the original solder joints are inferior. The GREAT NEWS is it's working great now. I'm not going to lie I did some praying as well because right here at Christmas would have been a terrible expense to replace the stove. So...., thank you Jesus, and thank you Matt.
Matt, I have a different model Elite, and can I just say Thank you, Thank you!! I opened the board to find exactly what you saw. Wife is happy... and she said we might even "cook" tonight. !!!
It's disconcerting this is happening to so many people. Glad this worked for you!
Matt for President! Lower heating element in Kenmore Elite stopped working the day before Christmas. Wife freaked (rightfully so!), was ready to call Sears repair (or buy a new stove!), and spend gobs of my hard earned money to get this resolved. Out of desperation, I googled the issue and found Saint Matt's video. All I can say is a sincere thank you! I saw the exact same issue as soon as I took apart the control board, ran out last night and bought a $10 soldering iron and just completed my first ever solder repair this AM, and happy to report the oven is once again working! There are not too many people that I hold in higher regard right now. Amazing that this would have cost at a minimum of several hundred dollars if I had called any repair person. That was a very selfless act to take the time to post this so others can benefit. Thank you thank you thank you Matt, you saved Christmas just in the nick of time!
You're welcome. Seems like a common problem. A burned out solder joint is not good, and makes me think this will happen again. But at least I'll know where to look first next time.
Amazing feeling knowing we fixed such a large appliance when others would have just thrown away....what else can I fix!!
Thanks so much for taking the time to post, otherwise we would have been in a completely different situation.
Thank you so much. Nobody seems to make a 40" stove now. You saved me the cost of a new stove and the cost of a kitchen alteration.
Thank you, Matt, for taking the time to post this video. You just saved me from wasting $800+ on a new range. Found the same issue on my 10 year-old Frigidaire Gallery causing no broil or bake. Now all is working again!
Just wanted to take a moment to thank you. I had a repair technichian scheduled and happened upon your video. Followed your instructions and the exact same solder point had failed. Resoldered and we're back up and running.
Thank you Matt ... I was going to send it in to Core Centric ..
Savings of 130.00. I don't have an iron . I took it down to a place . They charged me 20.00 for the solder job.
Again many thanks!
I have the exact same model stove with the exact same issue. Sure enough when I looked at the solder it was the issue. Thank you very much for sharing this video. 40" stoves are very hard to find and this saved me from either replacing my stove with a model I didn't want due to limited selection or updating my kitchen.
THANK YOU!! Your video just saved me from having to buy a new oven. After taking my controller apart I found my solder burned out exactly like yours in the video. I had the solder repaired, popped the controller back in the oven and it works perfectly again. (I just wished i had seen this video before I paid my local repair guy $115 to tell me to buy a new oven.) Thanks again!
Just like the many people who have commented....THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!! Our oven had the exact same problem and my husband fixed it after watching your video in less than 30 minutes!! We really appreciate the time you took to post the video and how easy it was to follow! Thanks again !!!!
I have the exact same oven with the exact same problem, down to the solder joint. 14 screws and a re-solder later, my oven now gets to 350 in under 8 minutes. Sure beats a $200 "circuit board repair", let alone a $4000 replacement range. Thanks Matt!
THANK YOU!!! This part is no longer available for our Frigidaire version, and you have save us not only money to send it out for repairs, but now I can make Christmas Cookies with my daughters.! We would never have thought to open the circuit board like you did. THANK YOU AGAIN AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!
+Najla Magness I'm glad it worked for you! It has been 2 years since I made this fix, and my oven is working fine. I hope it stays that way.
Last week my oven stop working. All the other functions work properly. Kenmore 2004 model# C970-635121 with a controller part# 318184400. After seeing this video I told myself why not try! After removal of the controller I have found a burning area on the circuit board. After cleaning I found the exact same burned out connection (pin) on the baking relay. I just did a little retouching of the welding and the oven is working again!!! For how long , I don't know but its working !!!! The controller here in Montreal is $260.00 up!!!! Thanks Mat for this informative video!!!!
Jean-Pierre Laliberté Glad it worked for you! Seems to be a common problem. Makes me wonder if it’s safe too.
Thanks so much for making this! I had the same problem: baking element not turning on. Broiler worked fine. I have been using the broiler to preheat the oven and then turning on the convection setting for over a year now. I was worried that I would need to replace the oven ECU. I took apart the ECU, I found the bad solder connection on the baking element relay. Simple fix.
Thank you for this video! You saved me $250 for a new control board. I took off the control board and low and behold there was a bad solder. I re-soldered it and now oven is working great!
Matt, Awesome video, thanks for posting!
I tested all the components of my wall oven and they checked good. This was all that was left that could possibly be bad. I was going to send out for repair and I thought...what the heck, try it myself...worst case I still have to send out for repair. I very carefully separated the plastic like you did and wala...a blown solder joint. It blew the pc board hole a little bigger when it burned so I had to cut the wire off one side of an old diode and make a j-hook to wrap around the relay post, solder that point and solder to the board trace. Works good as new and also solved the problem of the temperature being inconsistant in the oven...this must have been arcing at this solder joint for quite a while. Anyone that knows how to solder properly can make this repair. Good luck!
I replaced both elements, and was waiting on a new thermostat, when I saw this video. Having the exact same symptoms. So I took my controller off, and sure enough, the exact solder joint on the exact relay. I soldered it, and it's working again! I have a Kenmore Elite Convection oven with glass top burners, with the exact same bake control panel.
Spent $25 on solder gun and saved $2,500 on new unit. Not sure why repair techs don't know about this or won't say anything. Thanks for doing the leg work.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I have had my Kenmore Duel Fuel stove for 10 years now and the same thing happened, wouldn't heat up. I was told to buy a new stove because the control board has been discontinued. Thank goodness this worked!!!
Can't thank you enough!! My Frigidaire Plcs389ecb oven purchased in 2006 had quit working. Testing made me suspect the control board which is no longer available. Although my oven is configured a bit different, the control board is identical. Long story short exact same problem. Re-soldered the pin...back in business.
Hi Matt, thanks for posting this, the bake element blew on our Kenmore (790 model) I fitted a new one but it didn't heat up, so after seeing your video I decided to have a look at the controller, sure enough one pin on the bake relay had the solder blown away from one pin, the circuit board damage was a lot worse then yours but I managed to fix it and bingo, it's now working again, you save me a bunch of money and hassle, thanks again.
I also am glad I stumbled on your video. I was about to pay $350 for a new control board. Instead I found the burned out relay connection and resoldered it and is working fine. If it goes again I will buy a $5 relay and replace that component. Thank you!!!
Matt....you save me a lot of money!!! I was 5 min away of buy a new board and I found your video.
Previously i did a resistance test on the elements and there where fine, never tough about the relays. Thanks!
Followed the directions and got my oven back in business in a few hours. Even though it crapped out on Thanksgiving (after the bird was cooked but prior to the dessert getting baked) all is well now. I've repaired several items from RUclips information, including my SUV and my washer.
+Harvard Fong RUclips has saved my butt a few times. Glad this worked for you!
Wow! Just saved me a bundle, on a holiday weekend with a need to bake goodies for the party!!!
My oven is the same as yours and had the exact same defect..Thanks to you, fixed in less than an hour.
I had the same problem with my Kenmore oven. I followed your instructions and fixed the bad solder connection on the relay. It's working now! Thanks for saving me a ton of money.
Exact same oven, exact same issue. Thank you so much for posting this! If we ever meet, I owe you a drink!
Matt, I have the Kenmore Elite Dual-Fuel 7907946 that was having the same issue. My circuit board looks a bit different but had the exact same issue of the relay on L2 output. Re-soldered it, and we are back up and running. Thank you for saving me countless hours of changing parts.
Nice work. I did the same repair on mine several years ago. Exact same control/clock module, even though my oven is a Frigidaire/Electrolux. Never saw your video until now, so I had to figure out the solution using much the same analysis process that you did. Your comment at the end about worrying why that solder joint blew out in the first place is well-taken. After a couple of years, another joint blew out for the broil element. The problem is that those and solder joints are not heavy enough to carry that heavy current to the elements. They should never have relied just on solder to carry heavy switched currents like that. To make the repair more permanent, they would need a crimped blade or a heavy screw terminal connection - something like that. For now, I tried my best to get the relay pin flat against the board pad and I added a larger amount of solder, to hopefully dissipate the heat and give more contact surface. It's been about 2 years and no more have blown out. Crossed fingers.
My oven quit tonight found your video took it apart same solder joint is bad! Thank you for making this video I know it saved me several $100.
You Saved our Turkey Day. So grateful for this find. We are back in business 2 days before the big day.
I see this video is from 5 years ago. But i just have to thank you!! This worked like a charm. Thanks for saving me 260$!! Merry Christmas my new friend.
Hello sir. This issue happened to me. I had no idea what was wrong until I searched for the oven and came across your article. It was 50/50 that this could even be the same issue but I felt it was coincidental enough to give it a look. Sure enough, the solder was burned through at the exact spot you showed. Also, there was another solder joint that looked "iffy" on a different relay. I was more concerned about the electrical burn soot that was all over the corresponding area on the front of the control board. (Which all wiped off btw). Well, long story short, I soldered those two connections and put everything back together. Still believing I had a 50/50 chance of repairing it. BINGO!! It worked like a charm. The oven came right up to temp. I want to thank you so much. I can't even imagine the heartache you've saved me. My best to you and yours sir.
Hey Matt, just wanted to say thanks for posting this video! I went through all the other preliminary steps of troubleshooting the "easier" things first with a multimeter i.e., continuity in the element itself and the actual temperature probe. Since they were both fine, the control board had to be the culprit. I found your video while trying to shop for a new control board--that they don't make anymore! Dropped a dollop of solder on the burnt out connection and wallah, working like a charm!
Sears just left a few hours ago, giving me the news that I need a new circuit board which they no longer make. Thank you for this video which fixed my oven! You have saved thanksgiving which is in 3 days!!!
Wow! I’m glad it worked!
THANK YOU MATT. YOUR VIDEO SHOWED THE SAME PROBLEM I HAD....FIXED IT AND IT WORKS FINE.MUST HAVE BEEN A FACTORY GOOF,THEY PULLED THIS CONTROL BOARD AND IT IS NO LONGER MADE.THANKS FOR SAVING ME MONEY ON A SEND AWAY REPAIR.THEY WANTED 175.00.TOOK ME 15 MIN AND A DROP OF SOLDER .THANKS AGAIN....................
Same thing happened with my parents stove, however we replaced the element first and then the temperature sensor then it was still not heating. My thought was to replace the relays but then saw your video! Just so everyone knows this controller is used in alot of ovens!
thank you so much for posting this, my oven had the exact same issue down to the single spot on the control board being burnt out. You are a life saver (or oven saver really) given that those control boards aren't made any more.
You the best. I am a lady and did the same thing and just saved myself 358 dls NOT buying a new stove. THANK YOU
just had exactly the same issue. The solder joint looked exactly the same. I'm back up and running now thanks to your video. :) Thank You!
Holy cow matt!!! My friends range has all the knobs on the back, but the console was exactly the same. I took I took it apart and it looked okay, though the SAME place you solder looked a lil big different. I did not have a solder gun, so I went with a bet it was the temp sensor. Got one, talked to the guy at that appliance store who checked my heating element and it was working. Got home, installed the temp sensor and PRESTO....it didn't work. Soooo, I went back and checked the points on the relay again. Now funny thing, the first time, I did not have my glasses on. I lost them in Idaho, or so I thought. After I put the baby back, I found the glasses in my hood. I was changing a headlight in Idaho and I must have laid the glasses down. NOW, I take out the control box again, crack it open and PRESTO....YOU WERE RIGHT. It was burned out. I soldered that baby back and the oven lit up like a one legged lady leg lamp! I am shocked...the exact issue...it's 2016, you published this in 2013 and the exact point went out on this range also. Maybe someone at the factory was sleeping that day? so odd! Thanks for the video, I never would have figured it out without your instructions. PEACE!!!
Matt, Thanks for this! First of all, it helped me make certain that this was the problem. Second of all, it helped me figure out how to get my old unit apart to get the pegs out for the push buttons. I would agree with you that this appears to be a flaw in the system for everyone to be having this issue... I realize warranty is up, but looks like a manufacturing issue since it is identical for most everyone!
Matt.
Can't thank you enough. I have the exact same oven and had the exact problem with the lower bake element. Took the control board apart and . . . there it was, a broken solder joint. Re-soldered and the oven works great.
Thanks a million.
Matt, after reviewing your video a second time and paying attention I saw where you clearly discussed and showed how you opened the controller. As you and other have stated, the solder joint in the bake element heater relay was bad. All other solder joints looked good. Thanks for you video. one tip for others which is obvious but it took me a while to figure out using a flashlight. Pry open the circuit board from the side opposite the conductors going to the lower circuit board. The connectors act like a hinge when lifting up the exposed circuit board. Here are some mort tips for others who are trying to trouble shoot: heating elements, 10 to 50 ohms; thermostat oven heat ~1090 ohms at 75 deg F, 1450 at 250 F, 1650 at 350 F. Voltage across a good bake relay (yellow to black L1) should be 0 volts when energized. Voltage across the broiler element relay ((light blue to black L1) should also be 0 volts when energized. Line voltage of 240 volts indicates the relay is open and possibly bad.
Matt you are da' MAN! Oven went out on us today the day before Easter how convenient? ! But thanks to you we are rocking and rolling again with no money out of pocket! Thank you and God bless you for sharing this solution. Happy Easter!
This is the second time I've use this video to repair my oven. We're two for two! Can't thank you enough!!
Thank you Matt, I have a Frigidaire with the same issue. After couple of hours trying to figure it out i gave up and i was willing to pay $120.00 to have mine repair till i saw your video i repeat it the steps and of course it works. Thank you !!!
Thank you, we started our Christmas cookie preparations and the oven stopped at 195 degrees and wouldn't heat anymore. The broiler was also not working and no replacement available so came across this video and was able to solder two connections on the relays and it is working now.
Hey Matt, I just wanted to say thank you! I realize it's been a while since you posted this, but this was EXACTLY the same problem that we were experiencing with our Kenmore Elite oven. Great guide and thank you so very much for posting and sharing this with everyone. All the best sir, Rob
Saw this and mine looked the same way . I did same thing you did and it works. The part is no longer available to buy. Boy this saved me a ton of money!! Thank you for your video
Hi Matt. Your video gave me great confidence I could tackle repairing my Fridgedair 318010102 control board. And I am grateful for the learning opportunity. My board had stopped working with a burning smell and had gone dark.
When I took my board apart I found a big hole beneath one of the pins in the bake relay and signs of significant burning including a couple of pcb gold threads which had been exposed and broken. Not to be discouraged I wired around the broken threads and used fairly heavy copper wire to connect the relay pin to other pin connections on its pcb plate. But this repair did not work.
With a little more research I found a video on "hidden thermal fuses in small transformers" and in the detail comments I found advice to check a small zener diode on the board that could also be bad. So I removed the transformer, found the embedded thermal fuse, verified that it had blown, and ordered some replacements including the zener diode on DigiKey (which also has replacement 9v relays for the board). Now having replaced the thermal fuse and the zener diode I tried my "repaired" control board again and it is still dead. I've retested the transformer to find it putting out 39.2 volts on its secondary which is surprising since a repair kit I ordered contained 9 volt relays. Needless to say the transformer is no longer available.
I could really use some further advice particularly from someone who has successfully diagnosed and repaired this board beyond the level of depth you have covered so far.
Dude THANK YOU SO MUCH. Same exact oven - same exact problem. It's been down a year. Just gt her bacck up and running today. You are awesome!!!!
I have the same stove with the same issue. It would get to 170 degrees and just stop. I looked at the board and it was the same spot that was burnt out on the board. I re-soldered it and it works perfectly now. THANK YOU SO MUCH! :D
I have the electric/electric model of this same unit.The lower element in the oven was cold to the touch but the broiler was working fine, I followed your video and sure enough the soldering joint was identical. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks for doing this video Matt. I have a different model Kenmore Elite range but it was an identical issue with a leg of one relay's solder being the issue. Made it 10 years till this issue and hopefully another 10 now. Simple fix and great job instructing on how to go about it.
Wow! I'm glad it worked for you. Seems to be a common issue.
My Kenmore Elite Dual-Fuel oven started acting the same way last night. Your video was the first one I found and the only one I watched this morning. When I took my oven apart the bad solder joint was on the transformer though. Cleaned it up and soldered it and it works fine now. Thanks for sharing this! By the way, those pesky black plastic clips that sandwich the circuit cards together gave me a few minutes of grief until I figured out you just pull the keepers out of the center first with a tweezers, then you can squeeze the clips to free the circuit card.
Thanks for sharing that tip about the black clips.
Is there anyway you can post a picture or describe better how to get those pesky black plastic clips off. I am having a heck of a time. Thanks in advance.
Todd Anderson Here is a video that hopefully helps: ruclips.net/video/-lamoHcMH5E/видео.html
Thanks Matt that link did the trick!
thank you for explaining this repair so well. I have the Frigidaire duel fuel and had a similar problem, but with the broiler. thinking it was the element I bought a new one, $42 from online site. Still the upper element didn't work. called Sears, mechanic came, charged me $75 to tell me to buy a new board. the board is no longer being manufactured, so he told me to buy a refurbished one for 150, with no guarantee! my husband said, just get a new relay for the broiler! But, I like your idea better. If the solder is no good, try soldering first. great suggestion and great video. thank you.
Matt
Just to repeat what many have already said I can't thank you enough
My Frigidaire 40" dual fuel range same problem, YOUR solution, works perfectly now
I also ordered a spare relay just in case
Thanks again
Thank you for posting this video! We have the same unit and just ran into the same problem this last week. With some googling, your video came up. Thank you for taking time to document your work. We were able to do the repair ourselves, and oh it feels so good! God bless!
Hi, I'm glad this worked for you. It seems a lot of people are experiencing this same issue.
Thanks for the video, hopefully mine shows the same physical issue. I too can hear the relays but no heat. Thanks for updating the description too.
Thank you so much for this video! After some initial troubleshooting to narrow down my problem to the logic board, I came across your video and it was the exact same issue. A quick soldering job and everything is working again. You helped my save a minimum of $300 to replace the control unit. Thanks again!
Thank you so much! Had same issue and found your video on a search. Same problem, quick to fix. Wouldn't have known what to look for if it wasn't for your video. Thanks again!!
THANKS! I had the exact same issue. 5 seconds of soldering fixing the same pin fixed it. you are the best for posting up this video.
Thank you, Thank you. I had the exact same problem with my Kenmore Duel Fuel. Thanks to videos by you and Paul Roberts we were able to fix the problem in a jiffy. Thank you again.
I'll add my voice to the chorus of thanks-- we had exactly the same problem, and this was spot on. We were back up and and baking in under an hour! Beer's on me if you ever find yourself in St Louis.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!! I was nervous to do this myself but managed beautifully thanks to your instruction. My oven works once again. Not sure why this is happening to this particular make and model. You saved me a lot of money!
I'm glad this worked for you!
Thank you so much for this video. Kenmore oven with no power to elements. Similar looking relays. Melted solder on relay pin.
Each black tab holding the board is 2 pieces. Use tweezers to squeeze and pull the center clip out. Then squeeze the ramps together.
Neat.
dude if you ever find yourself in central MA, I'll buy you dinner, this saved me a lot of money, exact same problem! Thanks! Apparently the kenmore elite control boards have a fairly common problem with this based on all the comments.
THANK YOU!!!! I had the same exact problem and I opened up the control box and saw EXACTLY the same burn out connection. I put a little solder on it and it worked on the first try.
I'm glad it helped. Makes me wonder what's going on with this controller, seeing so many people are having the same problem. And is just re-soldering the joint going to last, or will you have to do this again?
Awesome I don't have the same model. But I wanted to say thank you to put this video online you save me few dollars.
Thank you very much. You saved me thousands on the alternative of having to buy a new oven. I
appreciate your help.
Glad this video helped.
Thanks.. Baking element would not heat up, followed your instructions and it works now.. Nice solder joints sears!
I followed your directions to a t, and the oven works again. Thanks Matt
Not to bash Kenmore too much, my GE above-cooktop microwave oven did the same thing, on either relay or a rectifier. A simple solder job had it working.
For those now willing to solder their boards, Adam The Answerman in Plano, TX will get you a part for less, generally.
Thank you so much for this video!!! Had the same exact problem and didn't know where else to look... well, the same thing happened to us, you saved us a bunch of money plus they don't make that part anymore!!! Thank You!!!
Thanks for the video, Matt. I had the exact same click and the bum contact on a three year old stove. Fixed with a soldering iron in a few minutes. Good to know about the availability of the relays.
I have a Kenmore oven and earlier this week the lower element stopped working. I found many videos but when I watched yours I realized I had the same controller, with the same symptoms. Could it be the same issue? Couldn’t believe it, exact same solder point! I soldered mine same as yours and voila! Fixed! Thank you so much for posting! BTW, my wife is upset with you, she wanted a new stove :)
Had this same issue on both burners (at different times). Your video enabled me to fix it
This is exactly what was wrong with mine also. Part is no longer available anywhere so you saved me a full replacement cost!!!! Thank You!
Thank you! Fixed in a jiffy - Sears Tech couldn't help, and sending the board off to be fixed was going to be $160!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! It worked, I had the same issue, just one solder that had gone bad...back up and running without a costly repair, can't thank you enough!
Dude you are a genius ... I followed step by step ... Fixed... I wonder why that one tab burns out ?????????
I wonder about that too. It could be this solder joint heats up to the point where it un-solders itself. Which it's not supposed to do. And also means this will happen again.
Thank God for your video Matt my Kenmore elite had the same issue and with a quick solider the problem went away.
Wow. How simple the "fix" is. Thank you.