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Thank you, I appreciate that!

Not sure that would have saved time in the end.

If a lightning strike took out the TV then most likely it's the mainboard that failed. If you don't hear the buzz from the power supply then this video does not apply to your failure. 9 times out of 10 lightning strikes affect the mainboard and not the power supply. To confirm this you can do a few voltage checks and make sure the power supply is sending voltages to the mainboard. If it is then your power supply is good and the mainboard is the fault. If not, then your power supply is the fault. If you aren't sure how to do some of these checks, then you can send in the boards for us to troubleshoot/diagnose and fix for you. But as stated based on the information provided it's likely that your mainboard is the fault, I would recommend sending it in for repair: nickselectronics.com/products/a2170502a

I don't understand. This video is vastly different of a repair than most other repairs we do on the channel. I don't exactly dictate what commonly fails on these TVs I just fix what commonly goes wrong. The videos we do are a reflection of the most common repairs we fix daily. If you are looking for different repairs on different devices, that might give you the variety you are looking for. We have 2 other channels for repairs, one is all electronics except TVs which might have the variety you are looking for, and the other is game console repairs and upgrades. All electronics repairs except TV channel: ruclips.net/channel/UCs_ALha5vs9lc0y-VeVrsyQ Game console repair and modification channel: www.youtube.com/@RetroRenegadeRepairs

Lol, if I get shocked while recording I'll keep it in. But I have not yet gotten shocked on a live board that is plugged in. So far it's only been while the board is unplugged but still charged and I forget it's still charged and or it stayed charged for way longer than it should have or that I thought it would. That has happened dozens of times.

@@NicksTVRepair I have! : ) Usually 230vAC. I try to keep it to a minimum : ) Good job on the repair, sometimes these boards are trickier to diagnose

Thank you for your kind comment! Been doing it for 10 years ish now. I don't solder nearly as much as I used to at first now that I have 7 employees, but I still love picking up the iron and repairing stuff.

Thank you! Cheers!

Hey what ever works works!

Yeah thermal paste alone doesn't always do it but in some cases it can. You just have to make sure you really clean off all of the old crusty thermal paste off so that the new paste can make good contact with the CPU die and heatink. Additionally having that large silicone thermal pad can be a big difference for heat extraction. With all that said usually a reflow is also required in a few cases, and in a lot, a new CPU especially if the heat stress damaged the chip.

Thanks

It sounds like you may have a faulty backlight. Typically mainboard failures aren't going to be heat-related and it sounds like yours may have a heat-related issue. I have not yet seen a power supply for this model fail but have seen backlights fail that's why I would recommend replacing the backlight, but really having it properly diagnosed would be your best bet. I don't think I can help you with this repair as the backlight is something that needs to be replaced on sight.

Thanks ✌

Some sets are going to be trickier than others. Some also fail more severely than others. It won't work with every TV but this does work with a lot of them. If it didn't work for you, then I am sorry to say that you may have to get a new TV.

That's right! :) We have 3 repair channels. I do the TV repair and random electronics channels, and my tech Juan does all the Xbox, and other video game console related repair videos.

Thank you! Cheers!

Many thanks

Don't have sorry

My advice would be not to fix it but instead get external speakers, they will sound way better than any internal speakers ever can.

So the easy way to identify the components without having to look up data sheets every time is by their ID location. If the ID location of a component starts with the letter D then it's a diode. If it's a Q then it's a transistor. L for inductor, F for fuse, R for resistor, and C is for capacitor. Those are the most common ones. As for NPN or PNP transistors, it won't matter in terms of testing, none of the legs are supposed to be shorted to one another. So if you detect a short then most likely that transistor is bad. However, sometimes the circuit can be designed that way so it's always good to recheck them once they are out of the circuit to confirm A the part you removed is shorted, and B that the short is no longer present in the circuit. Had I only removed the 1 shorted transistor and not the diode, I would have still detected a short in the circuit even after removing the shorted transistor. Makes sense?

I have never shocked my self on a live set while it's plugged in, but I have shocked my self on a power supply disconnected from power that still had plenty of juice, and boy that wakes you up. I wouldn't recommend.

Thank you

Hello, I am sorry but I don't understand the question. We don't really do to my freightliner repairs other than the CPC4 and sometimes ECM but mostly really repairs on the CPC4

Thanks for the visit

Lift from the bottom. You do have to put a little force into it.

@NicksTVRepair yeah I finally got it off. It was really stuck on so it took me almost an hour to get off. Thanks for the video. I am replacing the paste over the soc to see if that helps with the tv shutting off. Hopefully it does.

We have 2 FR-301 desolder pump/iron in the shop, they are pretty good for tougher jobs, but I wouldn't say it's 1,000 times better. The none electric desoldering pump I used in this video does also do the job well. The joints with those crowns are typically a bit tougher though and require the use of desolder wick. I probably could have gotten the solder off those tougher joints faster with the desoldering iron/pump but I don't know I also like the manual pump. I usually only use the FR-301 if it's a lot of joints like say some of the 18 throughole pin IC's or displays we replace for the oven control boards. This wasn't very many pins to desolder and only a couple were the tougher kind.

Yup for the TU models you will want to identify the VGH line. Cut it and install a resistor. You will want to use a resistor anywhere between 10k ohms to 100kohms. Depending on your set, every set is different, you will need to adjust the resistance based and see how it affects the picture. I usually start with a 50k ohm and if the picture goes out completely I go up. If the picture is still there but not as good as it should be I go down. I usually go down in half or up in half.

True haha but also if you don't have the money to do so or if it has sentimental value then this is the legit way to do it.

The BL_ERR ground trick only works for the 900c. Since you have a 900F you need to replace the LED strips to fix your set. Sorry, no easy way out on the 900F model.

What is the part number of the board?

This is very common and it is your mainboard that is bad. This TV is plagued with bulging caps. If your caps aren't bulging then your power supply is working and your mainboard is the fault. If you want to send in your mainboard for repair, we have links to our services in the video description.

Used to be bright orange color? So you watched the exact same movie with the exact same settings in the exact same fashion meaning is was always via a Blu-ray? It wasn't via a streaming service before and now Blu-ray or vice versa? Are you sure you didn't have any different settings on the TV prior? Is this only an issue with that specific scene on that movie? Or are the colors muted on all picture all the time? If it's only that scene then it's not going to be an issue with the TV. At least I don't think so.

@@NicksTVRepair Yes everything is the same. No changes in setting and I watched it on 4k blu-ray player with 4K disc. I noticed on darker seen only . It's seems like the auto dimming was applied. There's a video I found on youtube from HDTV test channel he said on OLED TV this is happening to prevent permanent burn in on the screen. he tiltle of the video is 5 bizarre things that only happen on Oled TV. I hope you can watch it. Thank so much for the reply.

I have an LG OLED right now at the house but I don't really mess around with the settings to much. I know how to fix them very well but when it comes to some of the finer settings I am not as familiar.

@@NicksTVRepair I have a Best But service plan Im wondering if they can't bring the HDR on this TV do you think they will replace the unit because you bought the TV because of its feature right to give you a good quality picture?

We have the FR301 as well as the solder sucker and desolder wick. The FR301 can be more convenient but only when I have to do a lot of desoldering in one go. It takes a bit of time to get up to temp, it requires maintenance and routine cleaning and stays super hot for super long which means you have to go put it far away so no one accidentally burns themselves when you are done with it. It can just be a hassle so if I only have 3 components with few legs to desolder it doesn't make sense for me to use it. I would rather just use the desolder pump and wick. If I have a through hole IC with 32 pins then sure ill bust it out.

That's one of the reasons we recommend having your boards sent in for repair, at least we can truly diagnose and fix your unit by live testing your boards and confirming which is defective and which are working so you don't have to guess which is bad and if your replacement boards you purchased are also defectives. (often they are) We once had a Vizio TV with a bad power supply. I bought 4 different power supply boards from 4 vendors, all bad all defective. The 5th one I bought ended up working. This was before we were doing component level repairs.

We have the FR301 but I typically only use it when there are a lot of parts to desolder or if it's an IC chip with a lot of legs. This is very little desoldering, didn't feel like it was worth the hassle to use the desoldering gun.

I beleive it's just normal wear and tear over time. The TV this power supply came from is 10 years old after all.

Sorry we don't have that one. We only work on USA models

Sorry we only work on USA models. Can't help you with that one.

Glad to hear. No whats app sorry

Im pretty sure it's just using the TV for 10 years that caused the diodes and transistor to go out.

@@NicksTVRepair Oki. Thx.

Never heard of Mr Sorin. Who is that?

@@NicksTVRepair Electronics Repair School channel. BTW - you do a great clear and concise job in a 9 minute video. Doesn't get much simpler and easier.

Thanks @djmips

It's a 2014 TV so I would say 10 years of use probably caused the mosfets to blow out.

Most likely need to reseat ribbon cables. If the issue persists, then you could have a bad mainboard. Unless we sold it to you or it's one we fixed there is a high chance it's defective if it's not from us.

Nice work!