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Haha yeah back then some of the repairs were a bit simpler. We still get some of these, but I wouldn't complain if more of these simple ones came through.

Wow thank you so much!

Haha thank you

450 for the iron but what I use and what you use is more of a preference thing. When using 450 if I linger to long on a pad I will burn it and rip it. So I know I have to be quick when I solder at those temps. If I want to reduce the risk of damaging the board I would use 400 or 375. But then i would know that I need to hang out on the joint for a little longer to make sure we get full heat transfer from the iron into both the PCB joint and leg of the component.

Yes some of these circuit boards the solder can be tough to remove.

It is possible it is a fault with the TVs mainboard, but it is also possible it's an issue with the signal type. Plug the PS5 into another TV and go to the picture display settings. Make sure to set it to auto. Then try it on the TV again. If you still have issues then I would have you double check to see if other HDMI devices work on the TV. If that is the case then you may want to try a software update or factory reset of the TV or PS5. If other HDMI devices also don't work on the TV then I would recommend you send us your mainbaord for repair as your TV mainboard most likely has failed and will need servicing.

Hey Jean-Marc, So we use the EXV2010 several times a day because we do indeed offer a lot of mainboard repair services which means we receive a lot of mainboards for repair every single day and it doesn't make sense to have every TV in the shop when you can just use a small test platform like the one shown in the video. We have about 40 of those platforms built which take way less space than having the entire TV set. Now there are some TVs that the mainboard tester doesn't work with in which case we do have the entire TV. But whenever we can, we try to use the mainboard tester instead of bringing out a large and heavy 65-inch TV. As for troubleshooting, we use the mainboard tester almost never. It's really mostly used because we don't want to have the entire TV set in the shop and would rather use a small test platform.

Yeah preheater can for sure be a big game changer!

Bad capacitors ? Sometimes especially on older TV's I've found caps that look ok but are leaking on their underside.

Yeah I just mentioned it in another comment but when I look at a Vizio mainboard that is for a slightly older 1080P LED model and you tell me it has no audio there are only 3 things I have ever seen cause that. #1 and most common is bad caps #2 bad solder joints between the CPU and PCB which you can just use hot air to heat up the CPU and confirm the fault, or #3 it's a software malfunction. Sometimes if you are lucky you can get away with a factory reset and software update, but most often you have to replace the software on the Nand or replace the Nand chip entirely. That's the least common of the 3 but it is something that does happen.

haha thank you :) I do cherry pick which ones we put on camera. But to be fair, this is also something that applies to several other 1080P LED Vizio sets. No audio, check caps, then CPU, then Nand. Those are the 3 most common reasons that we see no audio from Vizio and how to fix.

@@NicksTVRepair Thanks for reply and tips.

Sorry, that one won't happen until a few more weeks. I haven't had a chance to get the replacement LEDs for it yet. LED replacements do take a long time as well which is also going to make it so that the video is super long and take a lot of time to edit so I have been dragging my feet on it. I'll try to put a bit more effort towards it :)

Hello Hector, The symptoms you are experiencing are as you suspected commonly caused by the CPC4 for the 2016 Freightliner Cascadia with the DD15 engine. I created a page describing the common faults with CPC4s, explaining why they occur, and how to fix them in a way that will prevent future failures. If you are interested in learning more about it here is the link below: nickselectronics.com/pages/cpc4-diagnostic-and-failure-prevention If you are not interested in those details and just want to send it in for repair, here is the service listing which has our price information: nickselectronics.com/products/a0034461002-004 Of you have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out.

Sony took it down their website as they don't support it anymore. I downloaded that file before they took it down and I uploaded it to megaupload for people to be able to download for free. Here you go: mega.nz/folder/QelVkYBD#GnJn8J9MhrQyvf1NqmHjKg

Thank you so much for the comment! I am happy to hear you had a positive experience with our repair service!

Yeah no problem! If you ever encounter one of those units you can't fix, check out our other repair channel called Nick's Electronics repair. I have a dozen NAS repair videos for both Synology and QNAP for many different faults and units. If you ever find yourself in a situation where the repair is more than you can handle we have mail-in repair service options and we can fix it for you.

Thanks 🔥

Remove it, put it in the eMMC programmer and it will tell you the health of the chip

@NicksTVRepair thx. I love your channel.

Thank you! Also quick revision on my prior answer. Sometimes the health of the chip will say its 99% good, however that doesn't mean the software on the chip is not corrupted. So if it does say it's 99% good, I would still recommend reprogramming the chip.

Not the same repair but those do get bad T-cons sometime

Yeah we put it up on mega upload for everyone to access and download for free since Sony took it down mega.nz/folder/oSF2nL7C#l8oB5G9SIjV4rTPi6dcXrQ

Glad it helped!

@@NicksTVRepair It wasn't easy to remove all the iron from the pcb, but eventually after many tries, I managed to remove it. Again thank you so much for this video!

Yes it does sound like you have backlight failure since you are able to get text on the screen using a flashlight.

I think you other message confirmed it was backlight failure given that you do get a picture on screen it's just very faint.

@NicksTVRepair correct. Would this be the LED driver board?

Your LEDs aka the light emitting diodes are out and need replacement. When I say backlight I am talking about the lights themselves in the back of the TV, behind the screen.

@@NicksTVRepair gotcha. I'm not even seeing the message anymore when I have the flashlight on the screen

I don't know the answer to your question, this is not a box we service so I don't have experience with repairs on it.

eBay will be your best bet there.

Given that this is our trade we have gotten very good at doing the repairs others don't want to do. That's one of the reasons its one of the most common faults we repair. It's a lot of work and most people can't do it or just don't want to.

Yeah as long as it's one of the models we advertise we fix we should have no problem fixing it for you. Our contact info is in the video description.

How do you know your power supply ifs bad.

?

For your model that is going to be a panel failure. I can't know for sure without diagnosing myself if you have backlight failure, or both bad backlight and a bad screen. But if you have vertical lines I don't think it's worth trying to fix.

Yeah I agree, I really wish that they made them easier to take apart and to service. As you can imagine that is not on the engineers mind when they build these.

Emails over the weekend can take a bit of time to get back to you. Monday morning when we come in we typically have 100 emails from the weekend to go through and a lot of phone calls. We are a small team so getting back to everyone can take a bit of time. But as of today one of my team members should have already have gotten back to you.

Sony's and Hisense EMMC failures are most common. For whatever reason Google TVs have higher EMMC failure then any other.. the same Hisense TV but with Roku software I've yet to see a EMMC failure. A bad thing about EMMC replacement is Netflix/Hulu/prime don't work after a replacement. Sometimes they do or a combination of those don't work.. so definitely a drawback. But you can firestick Netflix onto the TV. These videos are awesome. I wish it was more popular. Thx Nick.

Do you think the problem may be caused by a software bug that is writing to these chips too many times and wearing out the chip? If that's the case, the replacement is just going to fail in a matter of time.

The chips installed all have a certain amount of read and write cycles before they start to fail. This is just normal wear and tear for the chips. The more intensely you use the TV the more you navigate apps and so on, and the more use the eMMC chips get. I don't have any hard data to give you accurate numbers but we advise you to use a Firestick, Roku, Chromecast, apple TV, or other streaming device with your TV for 2 reasons. #1 It will just be better than the built-in smart apps. No TV will ever be better than a streaming device by design. Apps navigate smoother, faster, and more responsive, the version of the built-in apps on all TVs is always of lower quality than streaming devices, and this is on purpose. Reason #2 is that it will alleviate some of the wear and tear from the TV and put that on the streaming device which is much cheaper and easier to replace.

Yes, the replacement eMMC will fail in a matter of time but the same goes for everything always, buying a new TV will just be a replacement that will also have an eMMC chip that will also fail in a matter of time. It's just cheaper to have only your eMMC replaced instead of the entire TV. + You will be forced to use an external device which again I don't have hard data to prove but will alleviate the workload from the eMMC on the mainboard and put that workload on the cheaper external device thus allowing the set to work for much longer.

You can save between $400-$2000 on a 70" TV repair depending on which TV you have fixed and how high-end it is compared to a replacement.

That will be a different issue. The Hisense Roku TV sets are built differently than the Hisense Android TV. Often for your model, I believe they combine the mainboard and power supply board into 1 board. I am not as familiar with the Roku version but what you are describing almost sounds like a capacitor failure. I would recommend you disconnect the TV from power, remove the back cover, and do a visual inspection of the electrolytic capacitors and see if they are bulging/rounded out at the top. If they are, that's your fault. Should be an easy fix. If not then I don't know what is the issue and would recommend you have it diagnosed professionally.

In my experience that is most likely a mainbaord failure, however it is possible your T-con and or panel could have gone out. If you want to send in your mainboard for us to test and troubleshoot we can do that for you but wouldn't be able to do that for your T-con or panel.

I don't believe we are using the same one as is on the board but are using a compatible replacement. I honestly don't know which one we are using but there is not 1 right answer, there are many chips that can be used and depending on our parts supplier parts availability we have had to switch a few times.