Frigidaire PLEF398DC Professional Series Electronic Oven Control
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- Click here to buy the EOC for this oven: amzn.to/1lELIUP
In this video, we diagnose why the oven's bake elements no longer function. We'll show you how to test your bake elements, and how to discover where the system is failing. Our oven failed at the Electronic Oven Control (EOC). So we'll show you how to replace that as well.
00:00 - Intro
00:29 - Check Elements
02:30 - Check Wiring
08:14 - Remove Electronic Oven Control (EOC)
08:58 - Transfer Cover to New EOC
10:58 - Install New EOC
11:47 - Check Repair 
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I really admire those who can repair things. Keep up the good work. we will always need you.!
Nice layout of steps and easy to follow. My only recommendation is to skip removing the bake element and start by removing the back panel to do the testing with both elements in place (as you did later). That way you're also skipping the need to remove the door and additional screws. There's also less risk of damaging the element. Of course, if the element is bad, then you'll have to take it out anyway. But if the element is good, that's less work you have to do! Also, it's worth noting that some ovens also have a thermal fuse, which breaks the connection if the oven gets too hot... which may happen during a self-clean cycle. Sometimes you can just reset the fuse if it has a button reset, but other types will need to be replaced. I don't believe your Frigidaire has a fuse, as mine didn't either.
This guy is truly a pro.It could not be explained any better.
Hey y’all- if it looks like the control board is bad and you want to save some money, check the solder joints where the relays attach to the back side of the board. On mine, one pin was burned out. Two minutes with the soldering iron repaired it.
This is definitely the best video out there for troubleshooting your oven. I guess I'll be chucking out $200 for a new oven control panel, which is bad.
of all the videos you showed every step necessary before I figured it was our control board as well. thanks and great job
Very good video showing how to track down the problem. this can be used on several models .good information to know.
Great video - very helpful. Found the solder joint on one of the relays was blown out on the main board. Re-soldered the joint and all is well
Saved $260.00 by not having to buy a new board.
Wow, thank you so much, Your's is the only video I could find that helped me troubleshoot and repair my oven, bless you!
Thank you so much for making this video. You went above and beyond what all of the other videos showed. I had learned from other videos that everything was working correctly except for the E.O.C. but that's as far as the others would take it. I wanted to verify it really was the E.O.C. and exactly where the trouble was. Your video showed me how to check the E.O.C. and sure enough, that's where I found the trouble! I found the best price for a new E.O.C. on eBay, ordered it, installed it (thank you for also showing that part) today and my oven is now heating up! Btw, I would not have known to peel off the cover on the old E.O.C. if you had not shown that. I would have expected a new one to have the cover on it. I am grateful :-) Your video saved me a few hundred $! :-))
This video was a huge help diagnosing my faulty temp sensor. Thanks for the great video.
You can tell this ain't his first Rodeo. Nice job!
Great tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I have a GE wall oven but the procedure is the same. 👍
Great video! Very logical and methodical. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Good over view, thanks! I'm ordering an EOC for our Frigidaire Gallery Induction (what a piece of crap by the way - I've already replaced one of the induction control boards on it) and now the EOC. I liked how you showed how to get the overlay off and reuse it. Thought I was going to have to buy a new overlay but now I realized I don't need to.
do you have surge protection at your electrical panel , we went through 3 EOC control boards , instaled whole home surge protection , no issues after.
Thank you for your step thy step instructions
frigidaire and many other oven brands have poorly documented "easter eggs" that even most professional technicians fail to address or understand. Please use THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURES BEFORE doing ANY troubleshooting. These TWO Steps MUST be accomplished. You can spend a great deal of wasted time running down rabbit holes and ghost fault issues if you DO NOT perform these two simple steps. (these steps are addressed in the User Guide and Installation guides under the topic "setup" and also "control settings"...
First Step: if power is removed (unplugged) or by temporary power loss, the Control Board Clock will reset. These Ovens WILL NOT FUNCTION at all until you SET THE CLOCK. So SET THE CLOCK after you have restored power and the unit is plugged in!
This step is essential! Again, the control Board will not function and you will never get the oven to operate until you set the clock!
Here is the direct quote from the manual on my frigidaire oven:
"Important: The electronic control is inoperable until the clock is set to the correct time ofday, after the appliance is first plugged in, or after a power interruption. The
electronic timer has a memory and when power disconnected it will show
display of the last time recorded."
SET THE CLOCK..!!!
this will save you a whole bunch of time if you do this first. If you do NOT do this, you will never get a reliable troubleshooting process. If you cannot set the clock, it MIGHT be the control panel...or something else like a relay or a temp sensor or a heating element of the temp thermostat probe or wiring...But before you go start running those things down, go to the second step here:
Second Step: This one is not obvious but it can happen. If your oven was in Self Clean Mode, or in HIGH Broil Settings and experienced a loss of power FOR ANY REASON, then the oven will go into a CONTROL PANEL LOCKOUT mode. You may or may not get a displayed error code. This one is the biggest easter egg problem with these "modern" ovens! Even if you restore power and can open the oven door and the mechanical door lock rolls back (as it should when the oven senses a normal safe operating temperature (read: cooled down), the control panel WILL go into a LOCK DOWN MODE. This second step introduces TWO PROBLEMS and the fixes to them are here:.
a. the first problem is that since loss of power happen, the clock needs to be reset...follow the instruction in the first step above to correct that!
again...my manual shows this:
Important: The electronic control is inoperable until the clock is set to the correct time ofday, after the appliance is first plugged in, or after a power interruption. The
electronic timer has a memory and when power disconnected it will show
display of the last time recorded.
b. The second problem is the LOCK DOWN MODE. Once you have set the clock, you may still experience no power to the elements. This is the Control Panel Lock Down Mode. To fix the Lock Dock Down mode, my manual shows this:
Control Lockout(some models)
Lockout is an added feature that allows the oven controls to be locked. This feature locks the control and allows cleaning of the
control panel without accidentally activating the oven.Lockout can be set or cancelled by pressing the BAKE/COOK TIME and STOP TIME pads at the same time.
During this mode depressing any button results in the word "OFF" being displayed for 2 seconds.While in Lockout, the display will show the current time of day.
Note: I have found the last sentence to be incorrect in certain situations like a loss of power during Self Clean or loss of power during High Heat Broil mode. In those two situations, the Display will NOT show the current time of day. In this situation you MUST set the clock first, then you can perform the two button sequence to UNLOCK the control panel.
I am avionics, 20 years plus, Boeing and Airbus. I've worked on just about every single kind of electromechanical device, sensor and control board, including a great deal of programming and computer tech experience. Sadly, the poor documentation with kitchen oven appliances leave much to be desired when problems happen. I cannot begin to count the number of kitchen and residential appliance or consumer products that I have repaired, discovering usually there is some "hidden easter egg" solution, undocumented or poorly documented.
So...before doing anything...save yourself a huge amount of time and do these things first before breaking out the test gear, opening panels, and or calling that very expensive repair technician. In many situations, the "problem" is often very simple to solve. Not always, but often enough this happens to be the case.
In troubleshooting...do the simple and easy things FIRST. Then escalate as required.
and be very careful ...240 volts of triple phase WILL KILL YOU. If you don't know how to work around dangerous current, don't even thing about doing any of this back panel stuff. Even if you don't get "hit", you can incidentally create other damage to your oven, simply by touching the wrong things with your tools. If you do get into the panel with power on, have someone near and helping, just in case they need knock you off a live circuit with a rug, administer CPR and call 911
I'm not kidding. Be safe
This video is to address bad heating element, no panel lockout. However you are correct, I cannot even turn on my frigidaire stove burner on unless the clock is set first.
I was getting a F1 code constantly, after setting the clock it quit beeping and showing an F1 code.
Great job! they need to clean their oven too. nice of you to work on it that way!
Very helpful video. Thank you!!
Great video! I'm going through this right now with a Frigidaire FEFL68GMA. The baking element went out in spectacular fashion. I picked up a new element because it was melted. I have checked everything and then I found my broil element not working either. So now to buy a new control board.
Thank you, very good video!
Amazing! Just fixed the control board. It had a tiny bit of water under the touch pad.
Thank you so much for sharing.
Great job!
Thanks for the video.
hi , i have the exact stove model and the problem is that it has the red lock on and wont go off , the oven works but not the burner i have try everything but red lock wont go of , happened before and i just turn off the main breaker and it work , now didn't work
Good work, but why you don't test and soldered new burned components, you might have one resistors at 0.70c burned, not entire EOC that cost 280$
Just curious, you do have an great tester.
Nice video I have wall oven Frigidaire video on replacing control board? My question is the tape connection i pulled up the part of the connection do I pull the tape wire out ?
great job bro ...
thanks for sharing.
Maybe a bit late but I have a question. On my Frigidaire double oven, the top oven does not work at all (the elements are tested and good). Everything else work on the oven. Any ideas.Thank you.
Super perfect video
great!
Nice video -I feel the oven relay is faulty -I am having the same problem would check the relay before buying a new board its $78 and a relay is $1.50 tks
By what you said right in the beginning. and I see there is a display lit. Really good spot to look. Thermal fuse. Well after watching vid I guess there is no thermal fuse. thermal fuess breaks L2 leg to elements.
Is there a way to test this limiter switch or just replace it? Because I thing its stuck in but not really working. Would does this switch cut power to complete oven even control panel lights?
Would you know where the fuse for the control board is located? I have Frigidaire Model PLEB30T9FCC
Another thing take several photos incase phone does its weird stuff. And if your replacing control board just buy a new front panel stick on.
What is the piece with the yellow coils? I have a Ge oven not working. I expect that piece and or the relays.
I want to replace these components if they are bad instead of replacing the whole board.
The piece I am referring to is the transformer. Getting old here, could not not think! :(
I'm not sure how to find out the specific replacement part, but it is a PCB transformer for converting DC to AC or vice versa.
Hi...my frigidaire oven (model 318334500) no longer work but the four flat glass flat burner is still ok. Before the oven stops working, i heard an explosion in the oven that causes our general switch breaker to shut off (power shut down entire house). When i turned it on again, ctrl panel is dead and we can still cook but oven is no longer working. Need advise if panel replacement is the solution to make oven worked again
Same thing happened to my Frigidaire range CPLEF398AC, slightly different model . Turned on oven ,heard a bang and it released the smoke of death from behind the control panel. Sure wish it was repairable.
Sounds like one of the oven elements shorted. Might have blown the board or relay to the oven on the board.
Can you help me out .I have the same stove my control board is not lighting up like there's no power ?
CAR MAC 1 you most likely need a control board but we are by no means experts on this, we figured it out along the way and used the wiring schematics on the individual parts to make educated guesses. If the control board is getting all the inputs it is suppose to be getting and no power, then replacement of that board is highly likely, but please remember, we work on cars and trucks and not really stoves
@@APDTY lol thanks Car's and trucks what are you doing fixing stove s 😆
Hi I went to Amazon and did not find this Controler is there anywhere else I could go too. Thank you
Google the part number of your appliance + parts and follow the links.
temp. probe not working.Can i measure the probe for resistance
yes. should show about 1.07 kilo ohm at room temp
Btw, my oven is a different model Frigidaire.
Ware did you get the correct controller board?
We bought the one for our specific make and model from Amazon. Link in the description.
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elpocaspeca
no funciona el horno
If u know both elements are not working , it’s the control , also much easier to go from the back instead of removing front door, hidden element pan and removing element , too many steps you are doing .....
Mr know it all..he is trying to help other people. Always someone saying someone isnt doing it right..alot of others appreciate this.
One thing he said he was going to check and then forgot to was the Broil Element, he didnt test as to whether or not that is getting power and where it might be stopped at
broiler element gets power from same source as the baking element, which is the control board.
saludos amigo desde venezuela tengo una cocina electrica parecida a esa pero tiene el control de la board al frente y no funciona el teclado o la board ayudame porfis
What if the broiler won't heat, but the element is fine?
then do the same ohm continuity test on the broiler element that was done on the baking element.
Oooops at 4:59. Neautral is NOT ground.
often connected to earth ground, ground and neutralare closely related. Under certain conditions, a conductor used to connect to a system neutral is also used for grounding (earthing) of equipment and structures..so yes basically it is a ground...
Control panel lights not working
Does anyone knows where I can get the parts from?
Amazon is one place.
Ok thank you
Ebay lists kits for specific boards numbers
☘ Irish Honey Badger - Thanks for help, electronic board beeps while oven doesn't work.
Couldn’t a relay or two have been replaced?
my thoughts exactly...
This is a common failure point on these controller boards. If you pull the two halves of the controller apart (the whole thing opens kind of like a clamshell), you will most likely see a blown-out solder joint on one of the relay pins. The relay itself rarely fails. The problem is that the full burner current flows though a solder joint, a terrible design. So sometimes, the solder just "explodes" off the pin and breaks the joint. Resolder that joint, and it will work again. As for how long it will last, well, that depends on luck, the solder you use, and how good your joint is. I repaired one of mine with 2% silver bearing solder and it's held up for 3 years now (and a different one just blew out, which I have now repaired the same way)
Many of these controller boards are no longer made, and they cost hundreds of dollars if you can find them. Instead, you can fix it for NOTHING if you pull it apart and resolder the relay pin.
@@cowsongs Thanks for the pro info. I wonder if using say 5-10% silver solder might resolve the issue...
@@sempertard Use the solder with the highest lead content you can get. I will sometimes also solder on a solid core wire to replace the trace. I have had hot tub circuit boards blow out the solder joint.
@@bobsoft Yes that does indeed work quite well.
disculpa en la board le sale un numero F13 y esta blokeada no funciona
Why not fix the control board instead of replacing it?
for people who just want to replace the board instead of component troubleshooting, then board replacement is easiest and fastest way to resolve the issue.
Why didn’t you save your client a couple hundred and just replace the relays?
If replaced the relays but some other component was causing the relays to blow, then the new relays would blow causing more delays to locate what's causing the issue. Board replacement is time convenience.
We are thinking along the same line here Todd, if the control board is partially working, I would think it's just a bad relay and replace the relay. I haven't priced a relay, but it has gotta be way cheaper than the whole board. My control board has nothing working on it, a new one is $302.15 (OUCH) that hurts! Otherwise, a pretty good directional video for checking power to and out of the board.
Trying to find just the relays could be a problem. You’re not going to get them at the local appliance parts store. You would have to research an online electronic supply company that may be able to get you one using numbers on the relays. But like he said if there’s another problem with the board it may blow up the new relays anyways so that’s why replacing the whole board is usually the best solution. The only thing to check before doing anything is a lot of times the solder for the relays get cracked and needs resoldered. Sometimes it’s hard to see the cracks so just solder the connection anyways. If that doesn’t resolve the issue then buy a new control board.
240 you mean 220 right?