I've come to the conclusion that you can't wait for the next thing to break down be it an appliance or a vehicle or whatever. You enjoy fixing such failures (as do I). The fact that your presentation mimics a college professor just adds to my enjoyment of the videos. I wish you enough breakdowns in the future to keep us both entertained!
Truly one of the best self help videos I have seen. The time you took to highlight and magnify potentially difficult areas was so helpful. Thanks for what you did.
I am so delighted to have stumbled across this video with the exact symptoms as mine. Nobody posted how to get the door open without power to the panel. I can't imagine that the inventor of the wire hanger knew how many other uses it would be used for, perhaps worthy of it's own top 50 video. Should I presume that because the panel has no display, that it's control fuse(s) have blown? In addition to the shutdown thermal fuse of course. The 321K+ views speak for itself about this issue and the self-cleaning function. Mine is only a couple of years old, so I guess no update to the design. Big like and subscribed!
Had the same problem with my whirlpool which is notorious for the upper rear thermal fuse blowing, especially when you use the self cleaning feature. The bottom oven not so much. also, two years after I purchased, there was an electronic component on the circuit board went bad. Spotted it by the burn mark. Repair guy wanted $150 just to look at it and $250 to replace the board. found the part online $2.50. That was 21 years ago. It still works great now.👨🔧
Agreed. This has the right amount of detail, logical presentation, and avoids loud talk and loud music. Other repair videos on RUclips could learn from this.
I just would like to let you know that your information on the kitchen aid oven with the blown fuse was a great help. I started to clean my oven the night before thanksgiving. The next morning when I went to open the oven it was just like yours, the panel was blank and the door would not open. We followed your instructions and found that our fuse was also blown. Of course it was thanksgiving day so we were out of luck to get it fixed till Friday. We went to our local appliance repair shop and they said it was no longer available. I sent my husband to a electronic store and the guy there had one, not exactly like the one in the stove but he told us how to put together. We hooked it up and the oven was working again. Thanks again we would not of known where to look or what to look for. It was a $3.00 part as opposed to a $2,000 oven. Don and Barb
Thank you, I'm glad it helped! You can get those fuses on Ebay as well, just make sure the temperatures and mounting details match up. This week my same oven had a top fan die a noisy death, so I know what you mean when you describe the sticker shock of what a new oven would cost. Fortunately I was able to repair it again, and I am in the process of finishing a second video of how to do that. Cheers! Dave
Huuuge shout-out, high-five, and possibly a bear hug one of these days for making this video. A video, I might add, that is still saving people time and misery 11 years after the fact. Well done. Can't thank you enough.
A compatible thermal fuse can be purchased for as little as a dollar, but it must be crimp-connected. If you solder it, it will be heated above its cutout temperature, then it will be useless. I found that although KitchenAid didn't originally sell the part (nor does it appear on diagrams or in the tech sheet found inside the oven), they are now owned by Whirlpool, which offers thermal fuse part #4456654 already crimped and ready to install. Prices vary in the $10 to $20 range.
First, i rarely post comments about videos, however this has got to be the best repair video that I have ever come across. The speed of the video was perfect and very clear to understand. Now this is not my exact oven, however I do have a whirlpool and it should be similar. I have been search for weeks for a video that explains my dead wall oven. Great Video!
Thank You for posting this! I found the 2 fuses on the back of the unit pretty easily and they were good. I saw the tech sheet showing a 3rd fuse but I couldn’t find it because it wasn’t sure what it looked like. You nailed it. Mine was bad too after self clean. Saved me a ton of time and probably several hundred. Jacks in calling a repairman.
You might be right about that. When I had it apart I identified a channel that connects that front vent to a large squirrel cage fan at the top back of the oven. My impression at the time was that it was designed to draw cool air in from the front of the oven to the hot back, cooling the backside and top of the oven. When I did it I held a tissue against it and flow seemed to be to the back, but I suppose flow could be the opposite way. Evidently it's not strong enough. Thanks for your comment!
Well done! It can be painful watching "how to" videos. I have to say you nailed it. I especially like the extra attention you give to the safety notes of the process. Well done, very informative and to the point! Thanks for taking the time! Cheers!
+Customer Review Thanks for the positive remarks. I too watch a lot of repair videos, and I know what you mean when you allude to the fact that a viewer's time can be wasted by an inefficient author. I wish people would just make their points quickly and move on.
Hubby and I watched your video for help with our Whirlpool wall oven. Yours was the only one I could find to help with a locked door, screwed into the wall. Unfortunately, your trick to open the door did not work for us. I’ll try sending Whirlpool tech a message. A huge thank you for your careful explanations. Very helpful!
A few others remark about that in the thread here. Presumably more modern ovens have more complex locking mechanisms. Some describe coming at it from the top to get at the solenoid that controls the door.
@@spelunkerd That cliff hanger trick worked fine on my old Whirlpool wall oven (model # GMC305PDB6). That saved me a few headaches as the problem was a bad latch. Definitely, go at it from the top with a stiff strong push, and it will open. Thanks...
Terrific video presentation! It was the 2nd thermal fuse that was the my problem and you diagnosed it beautifully to be able to help me find my faulty component and save a visit by the appliance tech.
Although I don't own an oven such as this, I got a lot out of how you went about diagnosing and fixing the problem. I also appreciated the follow up re why the fuses had blown in the first place. Excellent job all round, thank you.
Thank you for the excellent repair video. My problem is slightly different , the failure occurrence took place after the Self Cleaning Cycle however, the door did not lock. I tested the broiler element and oven element both had continuity. The thermostat failed the continuity test and I replaced it . No change problem still exists. Moving on to the two Thermal Fuses. Again, Thank you for your excellent video, it seems too have helped many in the same situation.
This video saved our roasted chicken and vegetable dinner which got stuck in side our oven when the door locked mid-way through cooking!! We were able to free the locked oven door and enjoy our dinner. Thank you!!!
Thank you for the informative video detailing problems with a KitcheAid Superba oven. Like at least one other commenter, I quickly determined that any necessary repair was beyond my abilities. My oven failure arose after a self-cleaning cycle, as well. I overcame the initial "door won't unlock" issue in July 2015 by cycling through the self-clean feature a second time. The locked door issue was immediately followed by another problem: the oven continually heated to about 200 degrees F even when "off." The "always on" issue was remedied by cycling the breaker off/on. The oven cooled and operated properly until October 2015 when the "always on" issued repeated. The breaker fix has proven to be ineffective for this iteration.
+Steve Wesselkamper Shooting from the hip, that sounds like it might be a board problem. Ya, it's time to ask for professional tech help. Hopefully they still have parts.
Thanks for the tip to replace the door gasket. Regarding the front vent, I believe the outlet is not a snorkel but a outflow vent. If you look inside the oven on the roof below the vent you'll see a round perforated screen that I'm sure vents through that front opening. What function this is for, I don't know but I wish I could block it so cooking smells don't vent into the kitchen. If you have any insight into this I would love to hear it. Thanks again for this very useful video!
My KitchenAid Superba single oven would not heat after running the self clean cycle. I determined it was the thermal fuse early on, but was not able to find it on the back of the oven as is depicted in most RUclips videos. This video really helped when it directed me to also remove the top cover, find the schematic (Duh!) and finally located the thermal fuse on the top of the oven near the upper fan. Glad you showed me that the replacement looked a bit different than the original. Oven fixed. Thanks!
My Whirlpool built-in double oven did this exact same thing yesterday - totally shutdown with no power with door locked after self-cleaning. I have done a fair amount of DIY stuff around the house but have never attempted anything on an appliance. Watched your video and followed it step by step. Removed the shutdown thermal fuse and tested it but it was still good. Like yours, my problem ended up being the control thermal fuse, which I removed and replaced (lucky, too because that part was only $30 to replace as opposed to the shutdown fuse which costs $70). Everything is now working in perfect order. Thanks for taking the time to post this. My motivation to fix it myself was after we called the manufacturer to ask about a solution and they quoted $300 to fix it, which is a joke because the oven is barely two years old and doesn't even get used that much. So about two hours time plus a drive to the electrical supply store saved me $270 plus the wait for a tech to come do it. A big thumbs up for the video. I own a small tailor-made shirt business for men. If you're comfortable sending me your email address I'll send you a coupon code and instructions for how to get a free shirt. The least I can do to repay the favor. Thanks again. Devin
That encouraging feedback is more than enough reward, I appreciate your gracious offer. Of course the best way to give thanks for something like this is to pay it forward to others in the future. It's nice to meet you!
Great video. Root cause for the frequent thermal fuse blowing is the squirrel cage blower. Whirlpool service bulletin recommends a higher rpm fan. I made the upgrade and haven't blown a fuse in years.
One of the best and thorough how-to-videos I've seen. Great explanation, demonstration and camera work; and addresses a possible root of the problem for prevention of future problems. Thank you, Bob Ross!
Hello, Thanks for the thorough video. Other videos had drawn my attention to the thermal fuse on the rear of the oven, but yours also addressed the fuse near the control panel. Replacing both was just what I needed and now my oven appears to be working.
You've offered a great example of why I always scan the comments while I watch a video, to look for little gems like the ones you posted here. I may have overpaid for that thermal shutdown fuse. In my mind the safety factor came to play, and I chickened out and bought the fuse recommended and sold by the manufacturer. For something less critical I tend to be more willing to shop for a less expensive option. As always, thanks for offering your insightful comments.
Thanks for posting the video my oven stopped working after using the self cleaning mode. I found the fuse that's beside the circuit board to be bad straight away so I replaced it and the power came back on but it wouldn't heat up at all. After watching ur video I now know of the second fuse lower down the back of the oven that tells the oven when to heat up. Thanks very much tomorrow should be a smooth easy repair Thanks to this video.
Perfect video to get me going on my gas range problem. The coat hanger wire method used to open the oven door was just what i needed to open door and access screws on the control panel...Thanks
The first fuse is well described. The second one, I'm not sure if I have that detail any more. The second fuse had some microprinting on the side, visible with a magnifying glass after I cut the plastic cover off. When I googled that serial number I came out with a good description of the fuse. I just took it to a well equipped professional electronics shop and they gave me a replacement. You should replace the fuse that is specific for your equipment, after you verify that it is bad. Good luck!
Mike-Jeezy Nice job on trouble shooting and what to look for. Got my door open with your help. Now the fun begins. One of the best DIY's I've seen in awhile...... Thanks
You did a great job instructing and showing every step in depth and explained very well. I didn't have a oven that stopped working just a dirty glass that needed cleaning and had to remove door and now I'm having trouble getting the door back in
+Seth Guthrie Tricky, isn't it. Every time I remove those doors I have to relearn how they work, which is a little tricky because they are so heavy and because dropping the door could be an expensive repair. Watch the video closely, keep pressure inward on the bottom of the door as you close it, never let go of the top handle in case it falls, and you'll get it eventually. In some ways it's like learning to roll a kayak or ride a bike. After you learn how it works, the movements become automatic and deceptively easy. However only the best teachers can remember how difficult it was when learning. I'm sorry I can't be of more help.
Great video and well narrated. One problem I had was that I could not use the coat hanger to release the door latch. Because my Samsung Wall Mount Dual oven was all electric I had to open the bottom door first and remove the molding strip on the right and left sides to allow the removal of the display key pad which then allowed me to easily push the latch out of the way to get the door open and make the repairs shown in your excellent presentation.
Those were my thoughts, too. The two vents, one for each oven, seem to both funnel air to the back two squirrel cage motors. You can only do self-cleaning on one oven at a time, so I'll plan to adjust the fan position to the most appropriate vent depending on which oven is doing the self clean. I'm not sure if air going to the lower will cross over to the upper -- from what I saw the vents just go their respective fans with no crossover. Thank you for your thoughtful remarks.
We are so thankful for your video! Exactly the problems that we had and we were able to fix everything with your instructions. Saved us $200! Thank you!
Great video!! I have the exact same problem with a different model Kitchenaid. Now that you showed me how I can use my multimeter, I'm pretty confident I can perform the repair.
Very good tutorial. My Kitchen Aid was slightly different but I was able to adjust. Key point is to make sure you install the side metal slides properly. Install the slides first before you install the first screws.
Thanks for the video! I had the exact same situation. I never would have figured it out! I went through the steps, ordered the parts and now my oven works again. Thanks!!!
In response to the question from R Young, when a thermal fuse fails it usually blows completely and in that case resistance is so high it's unrecordable, not 0.3 ohms. I would be looking elsewhere. However remember that to properly test any fuse it needs to be removed from the circuit, to prevent false negatives when current can find an alternate path to ground.
+spelunkerd - Thank you! -Yes the control thermal fuse was isolated and 0.3 was what appeared on the meter. I retested it in put the meter on resistance with tone and got 000
It went very well!! I only had to complete step 1 (replace thermal fuse $35) and the stove came back to life. Woohoo! Thank you very much for creating this video.
Update from yesterday. As mentioned, I tested both restores and they tested fine. Then I read about the relay burning out and I looked at it as well and it didn't seem burnt out. I also read about bad wire connections, so I disconnected and reconnected as many wires as I could. Repowered the unit and it is heating again. $0 fix but lots of time wasted trying to figure it out. while I had the doors off, I took the top door apart and cleaned the 3 inside panes of glass. Looks great now. Ready for Easter!
This is very informative video. I have a same problem with the whirlpool oven. It looks like the self-clean feature of these ovens brings in a lot of problems with the extreme heat and long duration of the cleaning cycle. If you don't have proper ventilation, it will grill all the fragile electronics at the top as the heat will find a way to go up through all the small escapes. Your suggestion with the fan is a very practical one, it is great idea. However, I have decided to forgo the self-cleaning in our case as it is not worth it to grill the electronic board by taking the easy way in cleaning the stove. To us, frequent cleaning will do the trick ! Thanks for the help and keep up with the good work.
I like the way you structured the video as well as identifying the root cause of the blown fuse. It reminded me of the way they investigated electrical problems in the Apollo 13 movie.
Your video was awesome - I appreciated all the detail. On my oven, with enough light I can actually see the latch by peering down into the vents at the top of the door but just can't generate the right leverage to push the latch aside. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
I really appreciate the "how to" open the door. The repair guy did not know the coat hanger trick. Whirlpool has poor customer service as they should have been able to instruct on how to open the door to GET TO THE SERIAL number. Without that you cant get to the system for repairs......Thanks Again!
Second time around for this fail mode, same circumstance about ten years ago. Thermostat fail then and most likely now. Thanks for the step-by-step, will order part and proceed!
Superb video, but I would never use a non contact voltage tester to verify lack of power. Use your regular meter on the terminals please. More oven problems so likely when people use the self clean. Seems like a can of oven cleaner would save a lot of hassle. Your candor and demeanor are perfect, a natural instructor. Again, superb.
Thanks for posting this excellent video. I have the exact oven. After running the cleaning cycle, the oven will run like it's trying to heat, but nothing. Lower oven which is not often used still works. To make matters worse, the door on the lower oven now will not close all the way due to bad springs so in order to cook we have to push a chair against it so that it will stay closed. Not only that but my wife dropped the Thanksgiving Turkey on the door spilling an entire pan of liquid that ended up coating the inside of the double glass door panel ! I just had Sears come out to repair everything but they have to order the parts including the thermal fuse and new springs for the doors. Apparently Kitchenaid realized the flaws with this model and have since improved repairs by putting the thermal fuse in the upper control panel so that the oven won't have to be completely removed from the box and also improved the way to disconnect the door hinges for easy removal. Oh and the repairman told me that when they come to do the repair I'm responsible for not only shutting off the circuit breaker, but will have to squeeze in down below to disconnect the power cord at the junction box or pay an electrician come do it ! Sorry for the long post but thanks again for posting the video.
Hello ladies and gents, Before you buy a new control board please, try the following first. Sometimes the Control board may go into a shutdown safety mode, so "Press and Hold the Start button for five seconds" I blew the control board while Speed cooking rice and it boiled over and the control board got wet. My husband quickly killed the power and opened it up and dried it out! My KAid range top worked, but the oven didn't work for four months and a few days ago out of the blue, I decided to pressed the Start button but apparently I didn't hold it long enough. The next day I heard a BEEP! I pressed Start again... Again not long enough... It Beeped again with- Connection Lost. I went to press Start again and I noticed the little Pad Lock noted to " Unlock... Press and Hold for five seconds" and what do you know? The control board works! My oven works too. Just in time for the Holidays! Good luck! I hope it works for you as it did for me ☺️
Thanks for posting this video! I had the exact problem(s) with my KitchenAid and was able to replace both the shutdown and control panel fuses with your excellent tutorial and it's back up and running - all for fifty dollars in parts!
Spelunkerd .... Thank you for your video. I have a Kitchenaid Superba27 Self Clean double oven that was in the house that I bought 20 years ago. The oven looked new or at least newer so I put it at about 20 -22 years old. Being a bachelor the oven never gets much use and still looks new except for the steak juice spill that I wanted to clean up. (I should have used Easy Off!). This particular wall oven has a mechanical arm that one pushes from left to right to lock the door when cleaning. I turned the controls to clean, cranked the temp control to clean and moved the mechanical arm from left to right. I heard a large click indicating the lock engaged. At the conclusion of the cleaning and after cool down I tried to move the mechanical arm right to left to unlock the door and it wouldn't budge. I followed what you did regarding getting the door opened with the coat hanger and I was not successful. I've cycled power on and off multiple times leaving power off one time for 24 hours, cycled the clean cycle on and off a few times but the door is still locked. At this point I just want to get the dooor open to see if the oven works. The clock does. The oven light works. If I can get the door open and the oven works I plan on disengaging the lock mechanism... ANY IDEAS?? Thanks for any help. Paul
There are remarks in this thread by others who had success with different ovens and different techniques. Some describe a solenoid that controls the door latch, and they got to it from above. You might find old manuals on the manufacturers website, or a manual hidden in the oven somewhere. Google may help. Sorry I can't be of more help to you.
@@spelunkerd Thank you for your reply. I can get the hanger around the locking latch but somehow the left to right handle mechanism won't budge and allow the latch to move. (I watched another video where the latch and handle were connected somehow via a metal rod to an actuator/motor which is suppose to allow the latch to open after the handle is moved back to the left. Maybe one of your other readers has an idea? Any help out there ?
From thermal fuse table at the top right of page 5 of the tech sheet, I was confused which part# to order. spelunkerd's fuse was 4452223 but mine didn't have pink/white striping, instead it had a blue dot. Then I noticed 9759242 impressed on the underside, a Whirlpool part# for a blue dot thermal fuse, confirmed for my model#. Also table shows reclose temp = -31F max so I put bad fuse in ultra low temp freezer, didn't fix it, even at -80C for an hour.
Yeah. I was thinking about hooking my shop vac to the hole, but then I realized that there is a cover plate that limits flow where I really want cooling to happen. That's why I instead decided to focus on what I am calling a snorkel, that directs cool air exactly where I want it to go. Thanks for your remark.
Well done! Discovering intellectual rigor in a RUclips appliance repair video is like ordering house wine and getting puligny montrachet. I am going to check out your other videos just to improve my mind. Sadly, while I was watching the video, my wife called the repairman.
Excellent video with details that are crystal clear. I was able to open the door immediately just a minute into the video. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience with the world.
that was just an awesome video and tutorial, just what my problem is tonight. You explained it well. I tip my hat to you for helping all of us out with this issue. Andy, Kelowna, BC, Canada
This was so very helpful! I had the same exact issue that you did. I ended up having to replace both thermal fuses and had the exact same issue with the gasket. Thanks again for the concise walkthrough
Thank you. I have a whirlpool oven and was able to diagnose and fix the problem because of this video. This video saved me some money in repairs (everyone else on the internet was doom and gloom sharing their stories of how they had to drop $600 on a repair or $1500 in a new oven) My oven now works and I will be replacing the oven gaskets as soon as the parts come. Total repair will be $150, plus returning the top oven fuse that didn't have the correct connector.
@spelunkerd - GREAT video -- thanx for the VERY helpful hint on how to open the oven door and especially the info on how to repair the blown thermal fuse. Question for you: I have a Whirlpool WOS51EC7AS01 single wall mounted oven with a wall mounted microwave installed above the oven. Because of the way my cabinets were made and installed, cutting holes in the cabinet to add air flow won't work. Thought came to mind that while the galvanized cover is off to replace the thermal fuse, I should drill two 1" holes in the side of the cover and two 1" holes in the top of the cover - avoiding areas where the card, ribbons, and wiring are located - to promote air flow in the control box area? The squirrel cage fan in the rear pulls a minimal amount of air under the control box but clearly not enough to cool the card - and especially the thermal fuse. I'm not worried about warranty as the oven is out of warranty. Liquids can not penetrate the area so I am not worried about shorts. The inside of the cabinet is not discolored so I expect the air in that area remains relatively cool. Do you think that the four 1" holes would work via convection at keeping the control area cool enough to stop the thermal fuse from tripping again - and maybe prolong the life of the control board? Many thanx in advance for your answer.
I like the way you thought this one through. Practically speaking I believe you need a big increment in air delivery before you can trust it not to blow during self cleaning, something like an external fan blowing cool air into the back of the cabinet. One issue with increasing heat transfer to the outside without extra air delivery is the chance of overheating the cabinetry and control board, and maybe even causing a fire. So, I have to admit that we just live with the oven the way it is, we clean the oven manually. If you want to try something it might be wise to have fuses on hand, you can get them from Ebay and elsewhere for significantly less than local stores. If you find something that works, please stop by and educate the rest of us here. Thanks for your input!
@@spelunkerd Hi @Spelunkerd! Thank you for your compliment and for replying to my post. Sorry to be so long posting my observations but life gets in the way. In the vein of measure twice - cut once... I reinstalled the oven in the cabinet and switched on the breakers instead of drilling holes in galvanized cover over the control box. Replacing the thermal fuse in the top cabinet near the board did re-energize the board but the oven did not heat when turned on. Checking the online schematics I found the thermostat located on the rear of the oven. Ordered that from eBay (both parts ordered from 2 different eBay sellers for a total of $35.99 in the door). Pulled the oven out of the wall again, disassembled the rear cabinet and noticed that the cowling was not mating everywhere and some of the sheet metal screws were installed crooked. Installed the thermostat, re-installed the rear of the cabinet and noticed that I needed my thinnest drift pin to properly align some of the holes so that the sheet metal screws all went in straight and the cabinet (coweling) buttoned up tight. Now the VERY interesting part... Re-installed the oven in the wall, energized the breakers and, of course, the oven heats. BUT here's the kicker: first time my wife bakes in the oven she comes to me and says the oven is blowing hot air off the bottom and it never did before as if something is wrong with the oven. Now I have to admit that I do not remember IF the oven blew hot air off the bottom before the therms blew but if the wife says it didn't... it didn't! My conclusion is that the back oven cabinet not being aligned properly caused the hot air vented by the squirrel cage to accumulate inside the wooden cabinet causing the temperature around the oven to increase because the heat had nowhere to go. We'll see over time but it would be interesting to see if anyone else noticed the change in hot air coming from the vents on the bottom front of the oven. This all said, still NOT going to use the self-clean feature anytime soon in case my reasoning is flawed. Looking forward to your - and anyone else reading this thread's - observations and response. Thanx again for steering me in the right direction with one of the best repair videos I've ever watched! Mike
Wow very complete, EXCELLENT VIDEO .. I just wish this was my problem... I'm having an issue whereby my Microwave has stopped working on my KitchinAid Oven/Microwave combo. Makes sound, but does not heat any longer. Any ideas welcome! At least I see how to remove the trim in case we just replace the unit.
Great Video helped me out! I watched all the other videos and those refer to the other models. You should write KEBC207KSS as the model for this oven so it's easier to search. Thank you
This was awesome! My bottom double oven died after an intense double oven pizza bake-off! Top one still works but I'm suspecting the same thermal fuse. I'm going to give it a try an I'll bet you saved me a pretty penny!
spelunkerd Worked like a charm! My thermal fuse was actually on the side and more visible than in your model. It was a small price to pay to remove the top, but the oven works great once again! Saved a fortune!
Yes, when I searched the problem of overheating after self cleaning whirlpool or kitchenaid ovens, I found a lot of angry posts about recurrent failure after self cleaning. Most said you can't fix it yourself, and so I hope this video is a useful addition for those with this problem. Thanks for watching, it's nice to know somebody is out there, ha ha.
Thank you for a very informative video - I got as far as the second fuse but I'm not sure how to disconnect the black end. Do I just pull it out of the white connector? thanks for any help you can give me.
Excellent video. Thank you I'm going to attempt to fix this myself because of your detailed instructions. My problem occurred and my 88-year-old father used self-cleaning mode while I was at a town. I think he must have been bored because the oven was clean before I left or he cooked like a caveman, and blew up what ever he was attempting to cook & tried to destroy the evidence. Lol hopefully the problem is a fuse and I can save from having an electrician coming out. Thanks again for the detailed step by step instructions...
It worked beautifully. It cost me $25.00 for the fuse in front. Originally figured it was the back fuse like shown in video but had them check it out at the appliance store and it was still good so it saved me $65.00. It made sense, since the LCD would not come on. The oven door never locked up on me. That was a $350.00 service call w/parts I saved because of this video... Thanks
Very helpful. Your instructions on removing the control panel thermal fuse was a bit off. I tried and tried to insert something, “behind and parallel” to the line to remove it, with no luck. After further inspection, I noticed the shiny connector on the side of the plug, and I pressed in on it gently while applying slight pressure to remove it and it came out easily. You mentioned where you purchased this part generally, can you provide a specific dealer. I have not found a source.
I just plugged in the part number with the word "kitchen aid" in the google search bar and a series of options came up. All the options I found were overpriced, in my opinion, so I'll be searching again if I have to do it in the future. As these ovens age I expect the number of options with available parts to sag. Thanks for outlining your experience with the lock. Others mentioned in this thread that their door lock was designed a little differently, which will help those who stop by in the future.
Microwaves have a large fuse that sometimes blows. Use a multimeter to test the resistance of the fuse, it doesn't visibly blow, it just shows infinite resistance. Also, sometimes the latch on the door doesn't close all the way, or the door switch fails and the machine won't start because it thinks the door is open. Unplug it, then open it up and have a look, find and test the fuse. As I recall there are large capacitors in there, hands off those because they can hold a charge and shock you.
I just watched this video and yes it is well made great job. But if you can you tell me if you had any error code that displayed before the repair thank you!!
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
I have changed out the smaller fuse (courtesy a RUclips video) with a product from Radio Shack a couple years ago, currently we have power to the oven lights and audio for the control panel but no read-out for time, temperature, ect. Will try break box procedure first, it may re-set.
OK... After using our Whirlpool GBD277PD-Q1, we blew one of the thermal fuses. We were baking potatoes. Watching this video, I was able to fix it. Thanks. Fast forward two weeks. We used the cleaning feature on the oven and it quit working again. Same symptoms, but this time the oven was locked. I got online and purchased another new thermal fuse. When I got it in the mail, I took the oven apart and replaced it again. This time that wasn't the problem. This time it was the long enclosed fuse on top. After replacing this one, the oven worked again. This time before I reinstalled the oven, I checked the fans to make sure they are working. All three fans seem to work fine (the upper, lower and convection) What, in your opinion, can be causing these to blow?
Re md007: That is certainly a different problem than the one I had. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
Great video. Especially showing how the other end of thermal control wire is removed. Could you name the source to get the replacement thermal control fuse? I have not been able to locate a vendor who carries it.
I believe the first fuse is still widely available. I took the second fuse in the video to a local electronics repair shop and they were able to read the tiny numbers written on the fuse and replace it for me.
Thanks, Kevin. Here on the 'net I am sometimes not sure about the skill set of those who ask questions, and I would have phrased my response differently if I knew you are a contractor. Also, for an active contractor the effort to tackle this problem is probably not worth your time. It's nice to meet you! Dave
I am looking around for a video on how to fix a whirlpool double oven that is not heating properly after I used the self cleaning option. Thanks for your video it is very helpful. I have placed oven thermometers inside the top oven but somehow is not baking adequately even with the temp higher. and the thermometer reading a 350. Is there an easy way to fix this.
Great video, well done. Any idea on how difficult it is to change the upper fan assembly. Ours is making a terrible noisy. May be the bearings. Keep up the great work. Thanks
There are a few fans in the back, and one inside the oven cavity, but they all seem pretty easy to get at (I've never had to do one on this machine). While it's on and under power I would spend some time to try and clarify which fan is involved. If you are comfortable with the safety principles of appliance repair I think it would be fairly easy. Finding parts might be harder....
I accidentally connected my neutral wire for my KitchenAid oven to the red wire and it didn't blow the breaker but it made a whole bunch of clicks and then a pop and of course my oven door locked I lost the display just like you did however I don't have one of those fuses in my unit which really sucks so I'm not sure if I blew my Transformer or if I destroyed my display board.
Very nice video. A friend of mine has the Kitchenaid Superba KEMC308kss01 combo micro/oven wall unit. She had a power failure and since power was restored the display is completely blank and no buttons function.I have checked the main inline fuse and it's good. There is power going to it. I found a small fuse that is soldered to the back side of control panel that is bad. Is this the control panel fuse? I didn't see an inline fuse like you show in the video.She told me she didn't self clean the oven. Just that there was a power failure and then power restored. Any help would be much appreciated.
nice video. Note for lefties....I could not get the latch to pop PULLING. Went back to the video and using right hand PUSHED. Made all the difference What are the specs on on the the Control Thermal fuse? Video noted 109 celsius...but what is the part from an electronic store? thermal resistor? thanks
+GreenTreeCinema It's been so long that any detail not embedded in the video is lost. The control fuse has microscopic writing on it, describing the cutout temp etc. I took it to a local professional electronics store and they easily found an inexpensive replacement.
Great video. I’m just struggling in getting the control thermal fuse out, I can’t get the black wire out of the white piece. I used a small tiny flat screwdriver but I’m still not able to do it, it’s been two days already and I’m very frustrated. Can you please tell me how you got yours out. I wish you had shown how you did it in real time. Thanks
Some of these are accessed from the front side, some from the back, all require some kind of tiny metal shim to pry the small metal prong to the side, then pull. If accessing it from the back fails, try doing it from the front, or vice versa. I put the wire into compression first, so that the metal tang will not bind, then pry and gently pull. The automotive depinning tool I used is sold at auto parts stores everywhere, it is more fine and smaller than a small screwdriver. I'm sorry my effort to show this didn't work, I was standing on a chair and couldn't get a good camera position, and my close focus on that camera is poor. The good news is there now are many videos showing how this works. Try the RUclips search phrase "how to depin automotive connectors". I hope that helps.
@@spelunkerd Many thanks for your response, I was able to finally get the fuse out. The video helped, but I also needed the tool that you used in the video.
I took the old fuse into a professional electronics supply shop and they replaced it with a nearly identical thermal cutout fuse. If you look at your fuse using a magnifying glass, you will find microscopic printing that describes the manfuacturer, the cutout temp and other details. The fuse was less than $10.
I've come to the conclusion that you can't wait for the next thing to break down be it an appliance or a vehicle or whatever. You enjoy fixing such failures (as do I). The fact that your presentation mimics a college professor just adds to my enjoyment of the videos. I wish you enough breakdowns in the future to keep us both entertained!
Truly one of the best self help videos I have seen. The time you took to highlight and magnify potentially difficult areas was so helpful. Thanks for what you did.
Thanks!
I am so delighted to have stumbled across this video with the exact symptoms as mine. Nobody posted how to get the door open without power to the panel. I can't imagine that the inventor of the wire hanger knew how many other uses it would be used for, perhaps worthy of it's own top 50 video. Should I presume that because the panel has no display, that it's control fuse(s) have blown? In addition to the shutdown thermal fuse of course. The 321K+ views speak for itself about this issue and the self-cleaning function. Mine is only a couple of years old, so I guess no update to the design. Big like and subscribed!
Had the same problem with my whirlpool which is notorious for the upper rear thermal fuse blowing, especially when you use the self cleaning feature. The bottom oven not so much. also, two years after I purchased, there was an electronic component on the circuit board went bad. Spotted it by the burn mark. Repair guy wanted $150 just to look at it and $250 to replace the board. found the part online $2.50. That was 21 years ago. It still works great now.👨🔧
Without a doubt, the absolute best youtube video I've seen. Thanks! I followed step by step, at least up until I ordered the part....
Agreed. This has the right amount of detail, logical presentation, and avoids loud talk and loud music. Other repair videos on RUclips could learn from this.
I just would like to let you know that your information on the kitchen aid oven with the blown fuse was a great help. I started to clean my oven the night before thanksgiving. The next morning when I went to open the oven it was just like yours, the panel was blank and the door would not open. We followed your instructions and found that our fuse was also blown. Of course it was thanksgiving day so we were out of luck to get it fixed till Friday. We went to our local appliance repair shop and they said it was no longer available. I sent my husband to a electronic store and the guy there had one, not exactly like the one in the stove but he told us how to put together. We hooked it up and the oven was working again. Thanks again we would not of known where to look or what to look for. It was a $3.00 part as opposed to a $2,000 oven. Don and Barb
Thank you, I'm glad it helped! You can get those fuses on Ebay as well, just make sure the temperatures and mounting details match up. This week my same oven had a top fan die a noisy death, so I know what you mean when you describe the sticker shock of what a new oven would cost. Fortunately I was able to repair it again, and I am in the process of finishing a second video of how to do that.
Cheers! Dave
Huuuge shout-out, high-five, and possibly a bear hug one of these days for making this video. A video, I might add, that is still saving people time and misery 11 years after the fact. Well done. Can't thank you enough.
A compatible thermal fuse can be purchased for as little as a dollar, but it must be crimp-connected. If you solder it, it will be heated above its cutout temperature, then it will be useless. I found that although KitchenAid didn't originally sell the part (nor does it appear on diagrams or in the tech sheet found inside the oven), they are now owned by Whirlpool, which offers thermal fuse part #4456654 already crimped and ready to install. Prices vary in the $10 to $20 range.
First, i rarely post comments about videos, however this has got to be the best repair video that I have ever come across. The speed of the video was perfect and very clear to understand. Now this is not my exact oven, however I do have a whirlpool and it should be similar. I have been search for weeks for a video that explains my dead wall oven. Great Video!
What a kind remark, you made my day.
This might be the best how-to video I have ever seen on RUclips
One of the best “do it yourself” videos I have ever seen. Perfect and thank you
Thank You for posting this! I found the 2 fuses on the back of the unit pretty easily and they were good. I saw the tech sheet showing a 3rd fuse but I couldn’t find it because it wasn’t sure what it looked like. You nailed it. Mine was bad too after self clean. Saved me a ton of time and probably several hundred. Jacks in calling a repairman.
You might be right about that. When I had it apart I identified a channel that connects that front vent to a large squirrel cage fan at the top back of the oven. My impression at the time was that it was designed to draw cool air in from the front of the oven to the hot back, cooling the backside and top of the oven. When I did it I held a tissue against it and flow seemed to be to the back, but I suppose flow could be the opposite way. Evidently it's not strong enough. Thanks for your comment!
My husband and son watched this video and were able to fix my oven! Thank you so much for taking the time to share your directions!
+Adrienne Eschenbrenner I'm glad it helped, thanks for the followup.
Well done! It can be painful watching "how to" videos. I have to say you nailed it. I especially like the extra attention you give to the safety notes of the process. Well done, very informative and to the point! Thanks for taking the time! Cheers!
+Customer Review Thanks for the positive remarks. I too watch a lot of repair videos, and I know what you mean when you allude to the fact that a viewer's time can be wasted by an inefficient author. I wish people would just make their points quickly and move on.
Hubby and I watched your video for help with our Whirlpool wall oven. Yours was the only one I could find to help with a locked door, screwed into the wall. Unfortunately, your trick to open the door did not work for us. I’ll try sending Whirlpool tech a message. A huge thank you for your careful explanations. Very helpful!
A few others remark about that in the thread here. Presumably more modern ovens have more complex locking mechanisms. Some describe coming at it from the top to get at the solenoid that controls the door.
@@spelunkerd That cliff hanger trick worked fine on my old Whirlpool wall oven (model # GMC305PDB6). That saved me a few headaches as the problem was a bad latch. Definitely, go at it from the top with a stiff strong push, and it will open. Thanks...
Terrific video presentation! It was the 2nd thermal fuse that was the my problem and you diagnosed it beautifully to be able to help me find my faulty component and save a visit by the appliance tech.
I'm glad it helped, thanks for the followup.
Although I don't own an oven such as this, I got a lot out of how you went about diagnosing and fixing the problem. I also appreciated the follow up re why the fuses had blown in the first place. Excellent job all round, thank you.
Thank you for the excellent repair video. My problem is slightly different , the failure occurrence took place after the Self Cleaning Cycle however, the door did not lock. I tested the broiler element and oven element both had continuity. The thermostat failed the continuity test and I replaced it . No change problem still exists. Moving on to the two Thermal Fuses.
Again, Thank you for your excellent video, it seems too have helped many in the same situation.
This video saved our roasted chicken and vegetable dinner which got stuck in side our oven when the door locked mid-way through cooking!! We were able to free the locked oven door and enjoy our dinner. Thank you!!!
Oh, cool! Thanks for the followup, it's very gratifying.
Thank you for the informative video detailing problems with a KitcheAid Superba oven. Like at least one other commenter, I quickly determined that any necessary repair was beyond my abilities.
My oven failure arose after a self-cleaning cycle, as well. I overcame the initial "door won't unlock" issue in July 2015 by cycling through the self-clean feature a second time. The locked door issue was immediately followed by another problem: the oven continually heated to about 200 degrees F even when "off." The "always on" issue was remedied by cycling the breaker off/on. The oven cooled and operated properly until October 2015 when the "always on" issued repeated. The breaker fix has proven to be ineffective for this iteration.
+Steve Wesselkamper Shooting from the hip, that sounds like it might be a board problem. Ya, it's time to ask for professional tech help. Hopefully they still have parts.
You got it, either a relay board, or a partially shorted element wlll cause this problem.
Thanks for the tip to replace the door gasket. Regarding the front vent, I believe the outlet is not a snorkel but a outflow vent. If you look inside the oven on the roof below the vent you'll see a round perforated screen that I'm sure vents through that front opening. What function this is for, I don't know but I wish I could block it so cooking smells don't vent into the kitchen. If you have any insight into this I would love to hear it. Thanks again for this very useful video!
My KitchenAid Superba single oven would not heat after running the self clean cycle. I determined it was the thermal fuse early on, but was not able to find it on the back of the oven as is depicted in most RUclips videos. This video really helped when it directed me to also remove the top cover, find the schematic (Duh!) and finally located the thermal fuse on the top of the oven near the upper fan. Glad you showed me that the replacement looked a bit different than the original. Oven fixed. Thanks!
fberns Thanks for recording your experience here. I'm sure it will help some others.
One of the best tutorials on anything I've ever seen.
Thanks!
My Whirlpool built-in double oven did this exact same thing yesterday - totally shutdown with no power with door locked after self-cleaning. I have done a fair amount of DIY stuff around the house but have never attempted anything on an appliance.
Watched your video and followed it step by step. Removed the shutdown thermal fuse and tested it but it was still good. Like yours, my problem ended up being the control thermal fuse, which I removed and replaced (lucky, too because that part was only $30 to replace as opposed to the shutdown fuse which costs $70). Everything is now working in perfect order.
Thanks for taking the time to post this. My motivation to fix it myself was after we called the manufacturer to ask about a solution and they quoted $300 to fix it, which is a joke because the oven is barely two years old and doesn't even get used that much. So about two hours time plus a drive to the electrical supply store saved me $270 plus the wait for a tech to come do it. A big thumbs up for the video.
I own a small tailor-made shirt business for men. If you're comfortable sending me your email address I'll send you a coupon code and instructions for how to get a free shirt. The least I can do to repay the favor. Thanks again.
Devin
That encouraging feedback is more than enough reward, I appreciate your gracious offer. Of course the best way to give thanks for something like this is to pay it forward to others in the future. It's nice to meet you!
Great video. Root cause for the frequent thermal fuse blowing is the squirrel cage blower. Whirlpool service bulletin recommends a higher rpm fan. I made the upgrade and haven't blown a fuse in years.
One of the best and thorough how-to-videos I've seen. Great explanation, demonstration and camera work; and addresses a possible root of the problem for prevention of future problems. Thank you, Bob Ross!
Hello, Thanks for the thorough video. Other videos had drawn my attention to the thermal fuse on the rear of the oven, but yours also addressed the fuse near the control panel. Replacing both was just what I needed and now my oven appears to be working.
I'm glad it helped, thanks for the followup.
You've offered a great example of why I always scan the comments while I watch a video, to look for little gems like the ones you posted here.
I may have overpaid for that thermal shutdown fuse. In my mind the safety factor came to play, and I chickened out and bought the fuse recommended and sold by the manufacturer. For something less critical I tend to be more willing to shop for a less expensive option.
As always, thanks for offering your insightful comments.
Thanks for posting the video my oven stopped working after using the self cleaning mode. I found the fuse that's beside the circuit board to be bad straight away so I replaced it and the power came back on but it wouldn't heat up at all. After watching ur video I now know of the second fuse lower down the back of the oven that tells the oven when to heat up. Thanks very much tomorrow should be a smooth easy repair Thanks to this video.
Perfect video to get me going on my gas range problem. The coat hanger wire method used to open the oven door was just what i needed to open door and access screws on the control panel...Thanks
I'm glad it helped, thanks for the feedback!
The first fuse is well described. The second one, I'm not sure if I have that detail any more. The second fuse had some microprinting on the side, visible with a magnifying glass after I cut the plastic cover off. When I googled that serial number I came out with a good description of the fuse. I just took it to a well equipped professional electronics shop and they gave me a replacement. You should replace the fuse that is specific for your equipment, after you verify that it is bad. Good luck!
Mike-Jeezy
Nice job on trouble shooting and what to look for. Got my door open with your help.
Now the fun begins. One of the best DIY's I've seen in awhile...... Thanks
Thanks, man. Good luck!
Our whirlpool brand did the same thing. I got it unlocked and I feel confident that I can fix it. Great DIY video. Thank you.
You did a great job instructing and showing every step in depth and explained very well. I didn't have a oven that stopped working just a dirty glass that needed cleaning and had to remove door and now I'm having trouble getting the door back in
+Seth Guthrie Tricky, isn't it. Every time I remove those doors I have to relearn how they work, which is a little tricky because they are so heavy and because dropping the door could be an expensive repair. Watch the video closely, keep pressure inward on the bottom of the door as you close it, never let go of the top handle in case it falls, and you'll get it eventually. In some ways it's like learning to roll a kayak or ride a bike. After you learn how it works, the movements become automatic and deceptively easy. However only the best teachers can remember how difficult it was when learning. I'm sorry I can't be of more help.
Thank you so much for this video! Our oven now works and it only cost us about $30 for parts. Thank you for saving us so much money!
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped.
Great video and well narrated. One problem I had was that I could not use the coat hanger to release the door latch. Because my Samsung Wall Mount Dual oven was all electric I had to open the bottom door first and remove the molding strip on the right and left sides to allow the removal of the display key pad which then allowed me to easily push the latch out of the way to get the door open and make the repairs shown in your excellent presentation.
Sorry it was a Kitchenaid Dual Oven. I zoned out because I am also haviing issues with my Samsung Ice maker
Thanks, I'm glad you stopped by. Others have remarked about a similar experience to yours, and it helps others to see how you solved the problem.
Those were my thoughts, too. The two vents, one for each oven, seem to both funnel air to the back two squirrel cage motors. You can only do self-cleaning on one oven at a time, so I'll plan to adjust the fan position to the most appropriate vent depending on which oven is doing the self clean. I'm not sure if air going to the lower will cross over to the upper -- from what I saw the vents just go their respective fans with no crossover. Thank you for your thoughtful remarks.
Excellent How-To video. I was able to fix my oven by simply following the video step by step. Thank you so much.
We are so thankful for your video! Exactly the problems that we had and we were able to fix everything with your instructions. Saved us $200! Thank you!
+kmhilgart I'm glad it helped, thanks for the followup.
Great video!! I have the exact same problem with a different model Kitchenaid. Now that you showed me how I can use my multimeter, I'm pretty confident I can perform the repair.
Very good tutorial. My Kitchen Aid was slightly different but I was able to adjust. Key point is to make sure you install the side metal slides properly. Install the slides first before you install the first screws.
Thanks for the video! I had the exact same situation. I never would have figured it out! I went through the steps, ordered the parts and now my oven works again. Thanks!!!
+forbrutrus What a great story, you made my day!
In response to the question from R Young, when a thermal fuse fails it usually blows completely and in that case resistance is so high it's unrecordable, not 0.3 ohms. I would be looking elsewhere. However remember that to properly test any fuse it needs to be removed from the circuit, to prevent false negatives when current can find an alternate path to ground.
+spelunkerd - Thank you! -Yes the control thermal fuse was isolated and 0.3 was what appeared on the meter. I retested it in put the meter on resistance with tone and got 000
oven lights are on and looks like everything ok except door open light is on when door closed. oven will not work.
It went very well!! I only had to complete step 1 (replace thermal fuse $35) and the stove came back to life. Woohoo! Thank you very much for creating this video.
Update from yesterday. As mentioned, I tested both restores and they tested fine. Then I read about the relay burning out and I looked at it as well and it didn't seem burnt out. I also read about bad wire connections, so I disconnected and reconnected as many wires as I could. Repowered the unit and it is heating again. $0 fix but lots of time wasted trying to figure it out.
while I had the doors off, I took the top door apart and cleaned the 3 inside panes of glass. Looks great now. Ready for Easter!
Thanks for the followup, I'm glad it all worked out.
This is very informative video. I have a same problem with the whirlpool oven. It looks like the self-clean feature of these ovens brings in a lot of problems with the extreme heat and long duration of the cleaning cycle. If you don't have proper ventilation, it will grill all the fragile electronics at the top as the heat will find a way to go up through all the small escapes. Your suggestion with the fan is a very practical one, it is great idea. However, I have decided to forgo the self-cleaning in our case as it is not worth it to grill the electronic board by taking the easy way in cleaning the stove. To us, frequent cleaning will do the trick ! Thanks for the help and keep up with the good work.
Agreed, thanks for the feedback.
I like the way you structured the video as well as identifying the root cause of the blown fuse. It reminded me of the way they investigated electrical problems in the Apollo 13 movie.
Your video was awesome - I appreciated all the detail. On my oven, with enough light I can actually see the latch by peering down into the vents at the top of the door but just can't generate the right leverage to push the latch aside. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
I really appreciate the "how to" open the door. The repair guy did not know the coat hanger trick. Whirlpool has poor customer service as they should have been able to instruct on how to open the door to GET TO THE SERIAL number. Without that you cant get to the system for repairs......Thanks Again!
You Rock! Awesome video. Did the job in 2 hours start to finish, even with running to get the parts (needed both). Total cost was $90.
I'm glad it helped, thanks for the feedback. It's a very satisfying feeling to accomplish something like this without asking for professional help.
Second time around for this fail mode, same circumstance about ten years ago. Thermostat fail then and most likely now. Thanks for the step-by-step, will order part and proceed!
Great video. Very detailed and your the first person i have found that looked into the why not just the fix. Thank you.
Thanks, man!
Superb video, but I would never use a non contact voltage tester to verify lack of power. Use your regular meter on the terminals please.
More oven problems so likely when people use the self clean. Seems like a can of oven cleaner would save a lot of hassle.
Your candor and demeanor are perfect, a natural instructor. Again, superb.
Thanks for posting this excellent video. I have the exact oven. After running the cleaning cycle, the oven will run like it's trying to heat, but nothing. Lower oven which is not often used still works. To make matters worse, the door on the lower oven now will not close all the way due to bad springs so in order to cook we have to push a chair against it so that it will stay closed. Not only that but my wife dropped the Thanksgiving Turkey on the door spilling an entire pan of liquid that ended up coating the inside of the double glass door panel ! I just had Sears come out to repair everything but they have to order the parts including the thermal fuse and new springs for the doors. Apparently Kitchenaid realized the flaws with this model and have since improved repairs by putting the thermal fuse in the upper control panel so that the oven won't have to be completely removed from the box and also improved the way to disconnect the door hinges for easy removal. Oh and the repairman told me that when they come to do the repair I'm responsible for not only shutting off the circuit breaker, but will have to squeeze in down below to disconnect the power cord at the junction box or pay an electrician come do it ! Sorry for the long post but thanks again for posting the video.
Hello ladies and gents,
Before you buy a new control board please, try the following first. Sometimes the Control board may go into a shutdown safety mode, so "Press and Hold the Start button for five seconds"
I blew the control board while Speed cooking rice and it boiled over and the control board got wet. My husband quickly killed the power and opened it up and dried it out! My KAid range top worked, but the oven didn't work for four months and a few days ago out of the blue, I decided to pressed the Start button but apparently I didn't hold it long enough. The next day I heard a BEEP! I pressed Start again... Again not long enough... It Beeped again with- Connection Lost. I went to press Start again and I noticed the little Pad Lock noted to " Unlock... Press and Hold for five seconds" and what do you know? The control board works! My oven works too. Just in time for the Holidays! Good luck! I hope it works for you as it did for me ☺️
At last! A how-to video that was enjoyable to watch! The suspense, the action, and the drama t kept me furiously grabbing my popcorn. More, more!
Very funny. Thanks!
Even though this is an old video, it greatly helped me repair our oven.
Thanks!!
Randy
Thanks for posting this video! I had the exact problem(s) with my KitchenAid and was able to replace both the shutdown and control panel fuses with your excellent tutorial and it's back up and running - all for fifty dollars in parts!
Spelunkerd .... Thank you for your video. I have a Kitchenaid Superba27 Self Clean double oven that was in the house that I bought 20 years ago. The oven looked new or at least newer so I put it at about 20 -22 years old. Being a bachelor the oven never gets much use and still looks new except for the steak juice spill that I wanted to clean up. (I should have used Easy Off!). This particular wall oven has a mechanical arm that one pushes from left to right to lock the door when cleaning. I turned the controls to clean, cranked the temp control to clean and moved the mechanical arm from left to right. I heard a large click indicating the lock engaged. At the conclusion of the cleaning and after cool down I tried to move the mechanical arm right to left to unlock the door and it wouldn't budge. I followed what you did regarding getting the door opened with the coat hanger and I was not successful. I've cycled power on and off multiple times leaving power off one time for 24 hours, cycled the clean cycle on and off a few times but the door is still locked. At this point I just want to get the dooor open to see if the oven works. The clock does. The oven light works. If I can get the door open and the oven works I plan on disengaging the lock mechanism... ANY IDEAS?? Thanks for any help. Paul
There are remarks in this thread by others who had success with different ovens and different techniques. Some describe a solenoid that controls the door latch, and they got to it from above. You might find old manuals on the manufacturers website, or a manual hidden in the oven somewhere. Google may help. Sorry I can't be of more help to you.
@@spelunkerd Thank you for your reply. I can get the hanger around the locking latch but somehow the left to right handle mechanism won't budge and allow the latch to move. (I watched another video where the latch and handle were connected somehow via a metal rod to an actuator/motor which is suppose to allow the latch to open after the handle is moved back to the left. Maybe one of your other readers has an idea? Any help out there ?
From thermal fuse table at the top right of page 5 of the tech sheet, I was confused which part# to order. spelunkerd's fuse was 4452223 but mine didn't have pink/white striping, instead it had a blue dot. Then I noticed 9759242 impressed on the underside, a Whirlpool part# for a blue dot thermal fuse, confirmed for my model#. Also table shows reclose temp = -31F max so I put bad fuse in ultra low temp freezer, didn't fix it, even at -80C for an hour.
Yeah. I was thinking about hooking my shop vac to the hole, but then I realized that there is a cover plate that limits flow where I really want cooling to happen. That's why I instead decided to focus on what I am calling a snorkel, that directs cool air exactly where I want it to go. Thanks for your remark.
Well done! Discovering intellectual rigor in a RUclips appliance repair video is like ordering house wine and getting puligny montrachet. I am going to check out your other videos just to improve my mind. Sadly, while I was watching the video, my wife called the repairman.
Excellent video with details that are crystal clear. I was able to open the door immediately just a minute into the video. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience with the world.
that was just an awesome video and tutorial, just what my problem is tonight. You explained it well. I tip my hat to you for helping all of us out with this issue. Andy, Kelowna, BC, Canada
Thanks Andy,
Dave from Victoria
This was so very helpful! I had the same exact issue that you did. I ended up having to replace both thermal fuses and had the exact same issue with the gasket. Thanks again for the concise walkthrough
Thank you. I have a whirlpool oven and was able to diagnose and fix the problem because of this video. This video saved me some money in repairs (everyone else on the internet was doom and gloom sharing their stories of how they had to drop $600 on a repair or $1500 in a new oven) My oven now works and I will be replacing the oven gaskets as soon as the parts come. Total repair will be $150, plus returning the top oven fuse that didn't have the correct connector.
I'm taking everything in order like you showed. I'll let you know an another week.
@spelunkerd - GREAT video -- thanx for the VERY helpful hint on how to open the oven door and especially the info on how to repair the blown thermal fuse. Question for you: I have a Whirlpool WOS51EC7AS01 single wall mounted oven with a wall mounted microwave installed above the oven. Because of the way my cabinets were made and installed, cutting holes in the cabinet to add air flow won't work. Thought came to mind that while the galvanized cover is off to replace the thermal fuse, I should drill two 1" holes in the side of the cover and two 1" holes in the top of the cover - avoiding areas where the card, ribbons, and wiring are located - to promote air flow in the control box area? The squirrel cage fan in the rear pulls a minimal amount of air under the control box but clearly not enough to cool the card - and especially the thermal fuse. I'm not worried about warranty as the oven is out of warranty. Liquids can not penetrate the area so I am not worried about shorts. The inside of the cabinet is not discolored so I expect the air in that area remains relatively cool. Do you think that the four 1" holes would work via convection at keeping the control area cool enough to stop the thermal fuse from tripping again - and maybe prolong the life of the control board? Many thanx in advance for your answer.
I like the way you thought this one through. Practically speaking I believe you need a big increment in air delivery before you can trust it not to blow during self cleaning, something like an external fan blowing cool air into the back of the cabinet. One issue with increasing heat transfer to the outside without extra air delivery is the chance of overheating the cabinetry and control board, and maybe even causing a fire. So, I have to admit that we just live with the oven the way it is, we clean the oven manually. If you want to try something it might be wise to have fuses on hand, you can get them from Ebay and elsewhere for significantly less than local stores. If you find something that works, please stop by and educate the rest of us here. Thanks for your input!
@@spelunkerd
Hi @Spelunkerd! Thank you for your compliment and for replying to my post. Sorry to be so long posting my observations but life gets in the way.
In the vein of measure twice - cut once... I reinstalled the oven in the cabinet and switched on the breakers instead of drilling holes in galvanized cover over the control box. Replacing the thermal fuse in the top cabinet near the board did re-energize the board but the oven did not heat when turned on. Checking the online schematics I found the thermostat located on the rear of the oven. Ordered that from eBay (both parts ordered from 2 different eBay sellers for a total of $35.99 in the door).
Pulled the oven out of the wall again, disassembled the rear cabinet and noticed that the cowling was not mating everywhere and some of the sheet metal screws were installed crooked. Installed the thermostat, re-installed the rear of the cabinet and noticed that I needed my thinnest drift pin to properly align some of the holes so that the sheet metal screws all went in straight and the cabinet (coweling) buttoned up tight.
Now the VERY interesting part... Re-installed the oven in the wall, energized the breakers and, of course, the oven heats. BUT here's the kicker: first time my wife bakes in the oven she comes to me and says the oven is blowing hot air off the bottom and it never did before as if something is wrong with the oven. Now I have to admit that I do not remember IF the oven blew hot air off the bottom before the therms blew but if the wife says it didn't... it didn't!
My conclusion is that the back oven cabinet not being aligned properly caused the hot air vented by the squirrel cage to accumulate inside the wooden cabinet causing the temperature around the oven to increase because the heat had nowhere to go. We'll see over time but it would be interesting to see if anyone else noticed the change in hot air coming from the vents on the bottom front of the oven.
This all said, still NOT going to use the self-clean feature anytime soon in case my reasoning is flawed. Looking forward to your - and anyone else reading this thread's - observations and response.
Thanx again for steering me in the right direction with one of the best repair videos I've ever watched!
Mike
Wow very complete, EXCELLENT VIDEO .. I just wish this was my problem... I'm having an issue whereby my Microwave has stopped working on my KitchinAid Oven/Microwave combo. Makes sound, but does not heat any longer. Any ideas welcome! At least I see how to remove the trim in case we just replace the unit.
Great Video helped me out! I watched all the other videos and those refer to the other models. You should write KEBC207KSS as the model for this oven so it's easier to search. Thank you
Thanks, will do.
This was awesome! My bottom double oven died after an intense double oven pizza bake-off! Top one still works but I'm suspecting the same thermal fuse. I'm going to give it a try an I'll bet you saved me a pretty penny!
Stop by after and let us know how it went.
spelunkerd Worked like a charm! My thermal fuse was actually on the side and more visible than in your model. It was a small price to pay to remove the top, but the oven works great once again! Saved a fortune!
William Tucker Thanks, man, I'm glad it helped.
Excellent video, not too fast not too slow. Great detail! Thank you very much!
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks you for this excellent video. It saved me several hundred dollars. All my oven repair cost me was $13 for an eBay purchased fuse!
Yes, when I searched the problem of overheating after self cleaning whirlpool or kitchenaid ovens, I found a lot of angry posts about recurrent failure after self cleaning. Most said you can't fix it yourself, and so I hope this video is a useful addition for those with this problem. Thanks for watching, it's nice to know somebody is out there, ha ha.
Thank you for a very informative video - I got as far as the second fuse but I'm not sure how to disconnect the black end. Do I just pull it out of the white connector? thanks for any help you can give me.
+Hana Maquet Sorry I looked at the video again and realized that you told how to get it out.
Excellent video. Thank you I'm going to attempt to fix this myself because of your detailed instructions. My problem occurred and my 88-year-old father used self-cleaning mode while I was at a town. I think he must have been bored because the oven was clean before I left or he cooked like a caveman, and blew up what ever he was attempting to cook & tried to destroy the evidence. Lol hopefully the problem is a fuse and I can save from having an electrician coming out. Thanks again for the detailed step by step instructions...
+Rick C DiCarlo Good luck, I hope it works for you.
It worked beautifully. It cost me $25.00 for the fuse in front. Originally figured it was the back fuse like shown in video but had them check it out at the appliance store and it was still good so it saved me $65.00. It made sense, since the LCD would not come on. The oven door never locked up on me. That was a $350.00 service call w/parts I saved because of this video... Thanks
+Rick C DiCarlo Hey, thanks for the feedback!
Very helpful.
Your instructions on removing the control panel thermal fuse was a bit off. I tried and tried to insert something, “behind and parallel” to the line to remove it, with no luck. After further inspection, I noticed the shiny connector on the side of the plug, and I pressed in on it gently while applying slight pressure to remove it and it came out easily.
You mentioned where you purchased this part generally, can you provide a specific dealer. I have not found a source.
I just plugged in the part number with the word "kitchen aid" in the google search bar and a series of options came up. All the options I found were overpriced, in my opinion, so I'll be searching again if I have to do it in the future. As these ovens age I expect the number of options with available parts to sag. Thanks for outlining your experience with the lock. Others mentioned in this thread that their door lock was designed a little differently, which will help those who stop by in the future.
Very thorough for the trouble-shooting aspects . . . Thanks.
Great self help video... wish there were more like this. Much Thanks
Microwaves have a large fuse that sometimes blows. Use a multimeter to test the resistance of the fuse, it doesn't visibly blow, it just shows infinite resistance. Also, sometimes the latch on the door doesn't close all the way, or the door switch fails and the machine won't start because it thinks the door is open. Unplug it, then open it up and have a look, find and test the fuse. As I recall there are large capacitors in there, hands off those because they can hold a charge and shock you.
That self cleaning button should be called the self destruct button! Thanks for the video!
I have a double Frigidaire wall oven does it have a fuse in the same location?
I just watched this video and yes it is well made great job. But if you can you tell me if you had any error code that displayed before the repair thank you!!
None displayed that I found.
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
I have changed out the smaller fuse (courtesy a RUclips video) with a product from Radio Shack a couple years ago, currently we have power to the oven lights and audio for the control panel but no read-out for time, temperature, ect. Will try break box procedure first, it may re-set.
OK... After using our Whirlpool GBD277PD-Q1, we blew one of the thermal fuses. We were baking potatoes. Watching this video, I was able to fix it. Thanks.
Fast forward two weeks. We used the cleaning feature on the oven and it quit working again. Same symptoms, but this time the oven was locked. I got online and purchased another new thermal fuse. When I got it in the mail, I took the oven apart and replaced it again. This time that wasn't the problem. This time it was the long enclosed fuse on top.
After replacing this one, the oven worked again. This time before I reinstalled the oven, I checked the fans to make sure they are working. All three fans seem to work fine (the upper, lower and convection)
What, in your opinion, can be causing these to blow?
Definitely not amateur. You sir, are a pro.
What a kind remark, thank you.
Re md007: That is certainly a different problem than the one I had. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
Great video. Especially showing how the other end of thermal control wire is removed. Could you name the source to get the replacement thermal control fuse? I have not been able to locate a vendor who carries it.
I believe the first fuse is still widely available. I took the second fuse in the video to a local electronics repair shop and they were able to read the tiny numbers written on the fuse and replace it for me.
Thanks, Kevin. Here on the 'net I am sometimes not sure about the skill set of those who ask questions, and I would have phrased my response differently if I knew you are a contractor. Also, for an active contractor the effort to tackle this problem is probably not worth your time. It's nice to meet you!
Dave
I am looking around for a video on how to fix a whirlpool double oven that is not heating properly after I used the self cleaning option. Thanks for your video it is very helpful. I have placed oven thermometers inside the top oven but somehow is not baking adequately even with the temp higher. and the thermometer reading a 350. Is there an easy way to fix this.
Great video, well done. Any idea on how difficult it is to change the upper fan assembly. Ours is making a terrible noisy. May be the bearings. Keep up the great work. Thanks
There are a few fans in the back, and one inside the oven cavity, but they all seem pretty easy to get at (I've never had to do one on this machine). While it's on and under power I would spend some time to try and clarify which fan is involved. If you are comfortable with the safety principles of appliance repair I think it would be fairly easy. Finding parts might be harder....
I accidentally connected my neutral wire for my KitchenAid oven to the red wire and it didn't blow the breaker but it made a whole bunch of clicks and then a pop and of course my oven door locked I lost the display just like you did however I don't have one of those fuses in my unit which really sucks so I'm not sure if I blew my Transformer or if I destroyed my display board.
Great video. Where can I get that multi tool you used to unhook the fuse from its connector?
Thank you very much, Mr. Spelunkerd!! I was able to fix my Kitchenaid Wall Oven (KEBS109BSS01) for $60 (Therm-fx and fuse parts). :-)
I'm glad it helped, thanks for the followup!
Very nice video. A friend of mine has the Kitchenaid Superba KEMC308kss01 combo micro/oven wall unit. She had a power failure and since power was restored the display is completely blank and no buttons function.I have checked the main inline fuse and it's good. There is power going to it. I found a small fuse that is soldered to the back side of control panel that is bad. Is this the control panel fuse?
I didn't see an inline fuse like you show in the video.She told me she didn't self clean the oven. Just that there was a power failure and then power restored. Any help would be much appreciated.
nice video. Note for lefties....I could not get the latch to pop PULLING. Went back to the video and using right hand PUSHED. Made all the difference What are the specs on on the the Control Thermal fuse? Video noted 109 celsius...but what is the part from an electronic store? thermal resistor? thanks
+GreenTreeCinema It's been so long that any detail not embedded in the video is lost. The control fuse has microscopic writing on it, describing the cutout temp etc. I took it to a local professional electronics store and they easily found an inexpensive replacement.
Great video. I’m just struggling in getting the control thermal fuse out, I can’t get the black wire out of the white piece. I used a small tiny flat screwdriver but I’m still not able to do it, it’s been two days already and I’m very frustrated. Can you please tell me how you got yours out. I wish you had shown how you did it in real time. Thanks
Some of these are accessed from the front side, some from the back, all require some kind of tiny metal shim to pry the small metal prong to the side, then pull. If accessing it from the back fails, try doing it from the front, or vice versa. I put the wire into compression first, so that the metal tang will not bind, then pry and gently pull. The automotive depinning tool I used is sold at auto parts stores everywhere, it is more fine and smaller than a small screwdriver. I'm sorry my effort to show this didn't work, I was standing on a chair and couldn't get a good camera position, and my close focus on that camera is poor. The good news is there now are many videos showing how this works. Try the RUclips search phrase "how to depin automotive connectors". I hope that helps.
@@spelunkerd Many thanks for your response, I was able to finally get the fuse out. The video helped, but I also needed the tool that you used in the video.
I took the old fuse into a professional electronics supply shop and they replaced it with a nearly identical thermal cutout fuse. If you look at your fuse using a magnifying glass, you will find microscopic printing that describes the manfuacturer, the cutout temp and other details. The fuse was less than $10.