Free Frigidaire Pro Series Stove Circuit Board Repair!
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- I picked up this Frigidaire Pro Series slide in stove for free. The bottom oven element was not working. Trying to diagnose and repair a faulty circuit board!
Please make sure your stove is unplugged or circuit breaker OFF before opening it up! High voltage can be hazardous to your health! :)
Relay part number is OZ-SS-112LF.
www.ebay.com/s...
board level repair always fun and challenging. Glad you found joy fixing those!
Inspired by this video, I decided to open my failed control board on my 6 year old Frigidaire oven. Thought it would be a waste of time because I don't know alot about electronics. Looked at the relays first and sure enough there is a dark pin on one of the relays with most of the solder missing on it. Going to order the relay to see if I can fix it. Thanks for the tips on removing solder and installing a new relay.
Great job Steve! The bake is not working in my Oven. How do I know which relay is for bake? The broil works fine. What should I look for? Please help.
Steve,
My broil relay shows OL when tested and the bake 0.000- 0.001 but neither element seem to work. When resistance was tested on the elements them selves the lower element is 16.1 and the top 20.1 resistance. Will replacing just the one broil element fix both?
I have this stove and am trying to diagnose and repair the runaway heating oven. It’s not the thermostat. Can you tell me how to access the control board, which you mention in your video as being easy to do? TIA
Nice video. I have a code poppin up on my control board. Stove works but not the oven. Going to open it and see if I can't fix it I'll buy another one.
I just got this problem to my gas range. I powered on and off outside the home when the keyboard stopped working. Now the oven light is on, it's beeping non stop and there's an F 11 code. So yes I am thinking of replacing it asap. Yup just over 1,100 purchase price. basically exactly like this one but I don't think i'll take on the challenge to replace it. Buying a cheap range will cost me just over the cost of a new board if I an even find one.
I have to resolder the connector for my control pad...but that means accessing the underside of the top board...was it difficult to spread the two boards? mine has a few standoffs (plastic conntectors) but like your it has rigid connections down one of the long sides of the circuit board.
Wow, this was so helpful! It wasn't exactly our problem (we have pretty much the same range but we have an issue with one of the burners randomly/sporadically turning itself on. It used to rarely happen, but suddenly is happening more and it almost started a fire the other night because we had left a plastic container on an adjacent burner and the bad one was on so hot (and apparently long) that it melted it. Luckily we were still awake in the next room and smelled it, but now we're scared. We found the Surface Element Control Board that needs replacing and got the panel off... but the replacement board is very spendy and factory backordered, so we're considering our options. Wish we were as handy with electronics as you. I WAS able to find one place that claims to have 2 in stock, but before we go there, I"m wondering if you could take a quick look at the part we need and comment on whether there is an element that might be replaceable (as yours was in your video). We only need to replace the board on the right side of the range (facing the range) and the part comes with both sides, perforated so it can be broken apart to install on either side of the middle control board you were working on, so it looks a lot different than the part your worked on. I'm not asking you do anything else... just take a look and point us in the right direction, if it's a possibility. We need the right front burner to start behaving, if that helps. Thank you. This is a link to the part so you can see what it looks like. partsdr.com/part/318411400-surface-element-control-board?model=FGES3065KFA
Oh wow! That's a scary problem to have. I do recognize that board. I think it's basically just some sort of position sensing potentiometer and a display. My uneducated guess would say it's a problem with the potentiometer, but I'm not sure if it's sending a digital signal somewhere to control the burner, or if it controls the burner directly. What do you do to get the burner to turn off when it randomly turns on? If there is a part number on the potentiometer, that might be worth replacing first if it could be purchased cheaply. My electronics knowledge is growing, but honestly pretty limited.
One suggestion might be to take a look for any cracked solder joints to the potentiometer, cause it can take a lot of stress.
Good luck! And let me know if I can be of further help. I don't have access to the stove right now (it's in our rental that's occupied), but otherwise I can help from memory of I'm able 🙂
Could you please record a video to show how you open up the front panel? I have one stove just like this and the keypad does not work at all (and therefore the oven cannot be used) though the stove still works - because my power supply had some issue and something in the control board might be burned. But I cannot figure out how to take the front panel apart. Thanks!
Hello! Yes it is a bit confusing. You actually just remove the knobs, then remove the threaded retainers under the knobs. If I remember correctly, the control panel is completely held in place by those retainers. The screws underneath the panel (above the door) may need to be removed as well. I couldn't figure out how to open it for a while, too! Hope that helps
Hi John Yin, I also need to open up the front panel, so any tip would be appreciated!
where are you located, you sound very smart i have a question if i have a old electric oven can i have both broil and bake element work at the same time or one or the other
Thank you
Sam
Would you know if the relay for the broiler could be stuck in the open “on” position for a F10 (runaway temperature) error code where the broiler stays on? Could it be something else? Would the broiler always be on when the stove has power, even when not powered up, in such a condition?
Look at you!! Courage in action!!
I have same stove and when I give it power it keeps beeping with a EO 14 error. Any ideas
it's funny how people like you always discount yourselves. "I saved $1000 on a simple fix." The thing is, you guys have a $1000 knowledge in order to know how to fix it.
Hi Steve,
Where did you find parts for this stove?
I need the rubber gasket between the control panel and the glass. I don't know where to find it.
Thank you
Hi! The only part I bought was the relay, which I bought from eBay.
One way that may help find the part is to search for the parts diagram for the whole stove. You might find this in google images, or on an appliance part website. On the parts diagram you should be able to find the part number for the gasket, then you can search specifically for that part # in google or eBay. Alternatively, you might try finding a rubber strip you could cut down to size. Good luck!
I have a Kenmore oven that the screen over the burners telling time and temp is dim. The board is no longer available. Any suggestions on what might be the issue? Thanks for the Video.
Hey! Wish I could offer some real help. I'd probably try to check the power going into the screen. Not sure what voltage it runs on, but if it's a DC power supply, maybe the power supply is failing. That might be where I would start digging around. Honestly just a complete guess, could he 💯 off. Good luck!
@@stevevanpelt4475 Thanks for the suggestions. I will give that a shot in a week or so when I get a chance. Thanks again and I hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Don
Hey l have the same model oven and it trows the f30 error and it trips the limit switch, I reset the switch and works again but next time we want to use it , same thing happens , I already checked the temperature sensor and checked ok, also check wires and they all ok, it seems like is something wrong with the board, some sort of shortage, I appreciate your help
Is it still working? Does the convection setting run ok? I have a friend who has this same stove but the fan on convection setting sounds terrible like a grinder. Maybe you could do a video of yours because I want to see if there is really a problem with my friends.
Hey! Yes it still works. Unfortunately we are renting out the house it's installed in, so I can't send a video of it working, sorry! Hope you can figure out what's wrong with your friends!!
@Steve Van Pelt I went to my friends today and I figured it out and I believe I fixed it. Apparently, the loud noise was caused by the fan blade hitting the cover. I thought at first it was the motor but it ran normal and quiet without the cover on so I bent the tabs that hold the cover on and put it back together and it runs good as new! Check out the videos below so you can see for your self.
Video 1: ruclips.net/video/tHkSr69P6aU/видео.html
Video 2: ruclips.net/video/AK9oP-NLnPk/видео.html
beautiful great job repairing saved alot of money and a nice oven and stove
Hello. Thank you for this beautiful video. I have a problem with the board. The meeting was completed and I did not try to open it. Wall or art, it will not be done completely. We overcame the challenge and opened it and it came out even if it was not done. I have a main irrigation, but the problem is now. It is on. It works for about 30 seconds. Then it disconnects again. E. Electricity? On the switch and Open? This is the problem I see. If you had the time, please follow me and I would benefit from changing any laari? Or both? I decided to change the 12 main bots. But now I don't see a different problem. Can you help me? Thank you very much.
Great fix my friend. I have ? for you.
My MAYTAG RANGE: #MER7662WS control is not working. After engaging oven feature we heard a "pop"
and board showed signs of a burnt and black area at oven terminal connections area.
Can I replace control board with confidence and not have another burnout?
Also looks like connector is too melted to reuse - is it ok to replace connector with exact same one?
Hello! My electronics experience is pretty limited. I know that it's pretty common to have a problem with the power right where it comes into a device. But I couldn't tell you whether replacing the board will fix it for sure. That would probably be my first try though, if the existing board isn't repairable.
Good job
I've also ruined some electronic things by burning or ruining the trace on the PCB board so being a cheap Mr. Fix-It doesn't always work out but it usually does. These ranges are pretty complex. I actually wish the house I moved into had a traditional coil one, less electrical components, easier to repair and access
Is the voltage out put from the control board to the oven element ac or dc?
AC
Very good job. Realy helpful. I wish you would have commented on the continuity readings. When the multimeter shows 0.000 Ohm, you said: Perfect! What would not be perfect? Thanks
Hey! Thanks for the comment. The continuity reading is just showing a continuous electrical path with no resistance. If I remember correctly, when I diagnosed the issue with the relay, I compared the working relay to the relay for the element that wasn't working. What I found was that 2 pins on the working relay were connected (measurement of 0 on the multimeter), while the same pins on the bad relay showed no continuity (1 on the multimeter). So when I measure the continuity of the new relay at the end after installing it in the circuit, I'm just checking to see that it has those pins connected (0 on the multimeter) just like the relay of the element that was working. Sorry that wasn't clear! Hope that makes sense. 👍👍
@@stevevanpelt4475 Thanks much for coming back. All is clear now!
Meanwhile, I searched on internet and found that the least ohm you measure the better it is. Meaning that the resistance of the wire between the connexion is weak allowing for better flow of the current.
@@stevevanpelt4475 I just noticed that you said that you are from Salem, Oregon. Funny, I did my PhD studies in Microbiology at Oregon State University (Corvallis) back in the late 80's and early 90's. Good memories! My best to the beavers!
@@stevevanpelt4475 ok steve
what about if the relay keps on clicking every 3 seconds or so..??
What could be wrong here:
-the relay itself
-the feed "main transformer"
-the capacitors
Thanks great stuff video
@@leo28a Hey! I would check the power input to the relay while it's clicking. I assume the power is switching on/off, so I'd start investigating upstream of the relay... But I don't have the board in front of me, so I'm not sure what's there and what could be causing that issue. Honestly my electronics knowledge is pretty limited, but on that board there is probably a timer of some sort that switches between the upper and lower element, and an input for a thermistor/heat sensor. Heat sensor would probably be easiest to check. If it's giving weird readings, it might cause the relays to cycle quickly like you describe. Good luck.
We had to send ours to the dump bc we spilt so much crap on it the last time it was done control board wouldn’t turn on
As you said they're stupidly simple to repair for those in the know.
We fixed it a couple of times but
I have the same problem I show me f1 any idea?
Hello! From a quick Google search it looks like the f1 error indicates an electrical problem. Unfortunately I don't really have any other ideas. If there were any issues with the oven before the error, or associated with the error, I'd start examining there. Good luck!
Good 👍🏻
It seeped in the cracks
I wish you showed how to remove the panel then your clip would have been useful.
You just pull the knobs off by pulling straight out, then remove the large plastic nuts directly under them 🙂👍. That's all that was holding my panel on.
what did you say that for I wanted one to!!!!!!!!! HA
Ha! Sorry, I meant to say that I paid a ton of money for this stove then it broke! 😬😬🤫🤫
Oh nice one. can we become a youtube friend?