!!PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!! I've done a follow up video as I understand now that it's impossible to be 8kw as diesel doesn't contain that much energy in the 350ml that I tested. So I've conduct a new experiment to calculate the actual heat output. I've also be testing how much electricity these consume at different Hz and also use the exhaust to boil water. Please let me know if there is anything else you would like to see tested in the future videos. Watch the follow up here: ruclips.net/video/4tiSEGO6pYI/видео.html Here are some links: The Diesel heater I recomend getting: UK: amzn.to/3ZO5S57 USA: amzn.to/3ZQgBMr Diesel heater featured: UK: amzn.to/3TUGYgo USA: amzn.to/3TUGYgo Additional affiliate links: Power supply 240v - 12v 300w UK: amzn.to/3BhmvZO USA: amzn.to/3PaYJoc glow plug burner mesh: UK: amzn.to/4euSkQv USA: amzn.to/4erp1OH Thank you Cheers J
You'll probably find it's more like 4 to 5kW - some of them are even smaller. The actual 2kW ones, sold as such, have a lower rate pump. I don't think any of the cheap ones are a genuine 8kW, that's all bullchit.
Anything they don't want you to have is probably awesome! It's amazing how many things I never wanted, but still have, just because people in power don't approve of it.
Josh thanks for this video, I was quite amused that you were new to the world of diesel heaters but very interesting that you can use alternative fuels. Im new to your channel and having flicked through your content you have a new fan! Very talented and very well presented. Thanks again Mike
It's illegal because you can burn wasted sunflower oil you get for free from restaurants and fast foods. Also new cooking oil,a lot cheaper in many conturies then the diesel fuel,wich is illegal because you don't pay the fossil fuel tax. In Romania they raised the price of the cooking oil,because the people were running the diesel cars on it😄 They were refueling in the supermarket's parking😆
I fitted these on boats and lorries for years, I'm a boat builder now so still deal with them and if set up correctly they last forever👍 First thing mate you need to swap that exhaust around so its not all exiting facing directly down as you generate extra heat in the underplate and if left on constantly for days the burner will be running maybe 5deg over what it should and using more fuel and the bend you cant have it so water and unburnt diesel stores in it or it will have start-up issues. Route the exhaust slightly downwards all the way from the unit so have it come out and down slightly then where it goes outside put your 90 bend sideways and facing downwards then have the exhaust aimed out at a slight dangle downwards so no water or unburnt fuel can store up anywhere on the pipe. Secondly you should fit the heat hose to the front as it brings the heat away from the burner nozzle and in turn saves fuel as its then burning at a perfect 163-167deg and 14:1 on the fuel. The best modification you can make for performance is to fit rigid type fuel lines like you get on the boats. They do cheap copy kits that the fuel line is nearly rigid and fits into rubber fuel hose and is clamped together. These ensure the fueling is absolutely accurate as there is no flex or expanding action happening when the pump is on its press stroke, the burner itself will be quieter and the fuel pump will last a lot longer with rigid type fuel hose🙏 What never to do > fit filters over the intake. Put too many bends in the exhaust or burner intake. Extend the wiring without doing the maths relating to wire resistance and if possible always use it on a 12v or 24v DC as mains power can sometimes have power cuts or large spikes that flip breakers... if that happens your heater is toast as it shuts down hard with no shut down sequence, this burns the internal pcb and internal wiring. The genuine ones can take about 5-6 hard shut downs before you need to replace certain parts of the electrics. Also do some homework at what height and angle the pump likes to be at as these all in ones are known for bad fuel lines and pumps facing the wrong direction. To quieten the pump down you can get the pink rubber cover thing for it and mount it so it's not touching anything. Never buy the garbage large thin tanks they all leak and the connector is a nightmare to snug up properly. If using a 5 gallon drum be sure to fit the blue lid on your current tank to it as it needs to breathe.
Good. I saw an off-grid video capture some exhaust heat. He did it by having the exhaust run diagonally down through an oil drum filled with oil, before exiting through the wall. So he created a long lasting oil radiator for nighttime when the heater is switched off the oil drum still retains heat through the night, also he had are reflector on the wall behind the drum to push heat out into the room. You must have the exhaust going downwards always as it cools because liquid could condense and clog if you run an exhaust uphill. A good downhill run and keep the pipe clean.
@@user-pf5xq3lq8i yeah mate the exhaust angle and pump angle affect the proper ones never mind these cheap copies. People dont realise how well these can run and how efficient they can be untill the really dial them in. Its the controllers ability to adapt to its targets like a car ECU that allows even badly fitted ones to run decent enough for a while but the difference in fuel savings and reliability (especially start-ups) from a well plumbed in one from one that's just been kicked into the corner and fuel thrown in it... is night and day. Honestly the 5kw versions that are sold as the 8kw cheapo model you can get the burner running at like 160deg even down low around the 2Hz mark (5kw usually go to 5.5Hz on the pump) with basic fuel line upgrade to rigid and some tweaking in the hidden menu to get the AFR perfect. Straight out of the box if you have a well made one youl be lucky if the burner is at 125deg at lower settings like 2.5Hz so dialling these things in can save you ridiculous amounts of fuel costs. The upper boundary of what any given 5kw unit will do is when the burner can run around 160-167deg as low as 2.6Hz on the pump with an ambient between 20 and 30deg.. and not need plugs every year because you leaned it out too far. That's the absolute sweet spot for any machine.
@@s1dew1nd3r4 see the Doblo van being smaller you don't need the 5kw (sold as a 8kw cheapo version) For instance a large Scania V8 T-cab only has a genuine 2kw and it can turn the cab into an oven if you leave them flat out on highest setting for more than about 15-20mins down to even -15deg outside temp. Truly the truck ones are all overkill they will even dry your eyes and throat out if you leave them on full power for anymore than a half hour. Based on that the 5kw is overkill for your application plus if you decided on the 5kw to run on low settings you'd still need to run it flat out every now and again to clear it through and on the shut down sequence when the fan goes flat out and it activates the heater plug for the final few pumps its going to near blow your windows out as the 5kw turn into a leaf blower on shutdown sequence. < These are my reasons for why you should go 2kw. Whatever you choose the wiring up side I would tap into and wire from a constant 12v circuit so it never hard shuts down by accident (and melts the guts out) if for instance you had it wired to ignition circuits when you turned the key off you would hard shutdown the unit. Wire it direct to a constant 12v but also add a switch so you can cut the power to the unit so it isn't draining your battery with the LCD controller unit being live all the time. See the switch/ circuit breaker you put in get a decent one and wire the maintenance charger wires on the connectors that are on the wire coming from your constant 12v circuit to your master switch/breaker. This ensures the maintenance charger isn't on the wrong circuit and supplying a charge to the unit itself when the switch is off. You need the maintenance charger to be charging on the live battery side of the circuit and not after the switch. You'd be suprised how many people make that mistake and wonder why their C-Tek or Optimate goes ape on them. The fueling I would get a proper sender unit or make as close to the genuine one as you can or simply just use the 5ltr one you get in the 5kw all in one units or a Jerry can with a diaphragm in the cap or a breather. The noise in cars/vans/trucks/boats can be annoying AF with the pump ticking if you have either hard mounted the pump or it's touching anything. If you are going for an all in one then your going to be stripping it to fit it so on the fitment I'd get the pink rubber pump thing that everyone buys to quieten them down and I'd mount that with rubber bungs and make sure to keep the fuel lines near the pump away from the body of the vehicle as they too will transfer the ticking noise. See the exhaust you need to pay attention to which silencer you buy as there is generally 2 types of cheapo ones, one is good one is rubbish, the good ones have welds around them not just folded and tacked, make sure on fitment of silencer the drain hole faces downward as this is another common mistake. Heat wise as long as the exhaust isn't too close to anything fluffy fabric or anywhere junk gathers up and you're good to go. Aim the pipe back into the direction of airflow to prevent blowback when you are driving, you don't want it blowing the burner out via the exhaust. The hottest part of the entire unit will be the first bend you put on the exhaust underneath it. Personally if I wasn't running it all the time I'd just do it off the 5ltr tank for the all in one or an outboard motor Jerry can you know the ones that already have the fuel line feed and a breather on the cap. They work amazing for these heaters I put them in a lot of the fitments I do on boats.
@@s1dew1nd3r4 if you need proper detailed fitment ideas mate it's no problem. The comment I left above is just my first thoughts on the matter but even when I talk about the maintenance charger I'm thinking you're using mains at a campsite or a genny to charge the battery while the van is in situ. If you're not needing it to be a campervan and not running the heater for 24hr+ with the engine off then you're fine as the 2kw barely use any battery power after the initial start up. If you are keeping the single battery setup in the Doblo then you need it to be able to start the car at all times, the heater controller itself is capable of doing a decent job of that so you would go into the hidden menu and set the "low voltage shutdown" to 11.9v so the unit itself shuts down when it reaches 11.6v not the 10.5v or whatever the unit comes set at. You won't get your engine going if it drains the battery to 10.5v With car batteries they only work well as a 'starter motor' battery above 11.6v anything below this they lose their Cranking ability. Hope this helps further.
I'm in the States & use a diesel heater to heat my workshop. I found that it runs on diesel, kerosene, and Type A Jet fuel but I haven't tried biofuel yet. Kerosene is expensive here and diesel is $4.89 a gallon so I go to a nearby small airfield and buy 10 gallons of Type A Jet fuel for only $3.80 a gallon. The only hitch is that the nozzle of an aircraft self-serve pump won't fit into a standard fuel jug opening so I had to buy two 5 gallon wide-mouth fuel jugs which have a large enough opening. A company named U-Jug makes them. In short, burning Type A in these heaters is a lot less expensive than using diesel fuel or kerosene. I haven't bothered to measure it but I think I get a longer burn on a gallon of Type A than I do on diesel fuel.
Thank you. That's great information. Kerosene was much cheaper here if you buy in bulk. 1000ltr used to be £400 not long ago but it shot up to £1200. Cheers J
@@kenttegneskog Pffft, what a silly & uninformed supposition. I bought my cheap Chinese diesel heater for only $125 (USD). I previously heated my shop with a propane heater & electric heat. The diesel heater was not only much less costly to purchase but is much cheaper & efficient to operate. My fuel/heating cost for a winter season is about $40. A wood stove might be less costly but requires a lot of time & labor to process wood, maintain it, and dedicate space to properly store the wood. Which method do you use & what did it cost?
@@kst357 i meant if u only spending 40 pity dollar on the winter, but probably spending same in gas to get to the airfield and back, AND it’s illegal. Just to cut the cost from 55dollar to 40dollar
I am an old Volkswagen mechanic who in the '70s worked on many Eberspacher gasoline heaters factory installed into all Volkswagen Type 4 vehicles. They were in every Type 4 and the early 73 Thing vehicles. This design looks a great deal like what they made with a pulse fuel pump that was timed to the ventilating speed. Their units had both a spark and glow plug for intitial ignition. They ran on gasoline, not diesel. Your high power consumption on startup is from the glow plug.
In America, we had US made Southwind heaters, which I also installed in new VW vans in 1969. They also were a little more dangerous due to gasoline leakage fires@@c50ge
This is the first of your videos I’ve ever seen, and I stumbled across it completely randomly (the previous video I watched before this popped up, was about the Alaskan oil pipeline. Lol) Your level of interest in the product, your explanations, the information you provide, you pulling it apart to see what’s inside it, etc. has immediately earned you a sub. 👍🏻
I lived in Alaska few years ago these little “Japanese stoves” we called them, were used everywhere and in everything cabins, boats, work shops, man caves… toyo stoves… even houses. great channel!
about the earky to mid 80s kerosene heaters from japan toyo was 1 brand were popular to heat or supplement heat but k1 kerosene was not too expensive. but today i have only seen buying by gallon or 5 gallon cans at rediculious prices. bear in mindim not in the cold part og the states dont know if stations sell by gallon to your own containers anymore my place stop selling before i moved in 95
@@jar407 Kerosene price today in Britain is £0.82 per litre. That works out to be £3.73 per Imperial gallon. You can do your own maths for the US since you use smaller gallons and dollars...! 😃
Yes I live in Japan and I thought it looked like this. Except they don't exhaust outside, so you need to open a window from time to time. In very cold areas where heat pumps struggle, they're used everywhere. In Tokyo a bit less as it's not that cold. But we still have trucks going around selling kerosene with a little music like an ice cream truck lol.
I know the exhaust goes outside but I think it would be extremely wise to have a carbon monoxide alarm anywhere you’re using one of these, in case of exhaust leaks
@@zeusdagmire6185 a radon detector?? they arent actually a thing. to detect radon requires the placing of 2 alpha particle sensitive plastic discs in a building for 3 months which then has to be sent away to be analysed.
well that was an interesting dive into snakeoil devices. talk about junk. they are geiger counters masquerading as 'radon detectors' if its detecting alpha particles its detecting all ionising radiation. thats why tests kits arent a geiger counter. not to mention that they dont take other sources of radiation into account.
@@joylessdave what are you saying ? a carbon monoxide alarm wont work if it detects the exhaust from the heater ? that you need a radon detector ? naaaaa
Fitted one to my house ! There was an 8" extractor fan in the kitchen I could temporarily remove to fit two 4" pipes through to the inside of the house, the heater itself is mounted on the outside which is under cover from a canopy we have at the back. Have it on setting number 4 but sometimes as low as 2 with the fan speed increased. Powered using a 12v car battery topped up regularly with a small 3 stage charger. It will run on battery for around 7-10 hours but it does use a fair few amps when the glow plug is lit on startup, after that it doesn't pull much at all... Downstairs gets toasty in no time but takes about an hour or so before you can feel the heat upstairs. Came with 10ltr tank and having to use normal diesel but I do get about a week out of it for an average of 5-6 hours a night.... Usually pay £15-£18 to refill every week depending how much is left in the tank. I will do a video if anyone interested....
👍 fight back against big government, big oil and big tax man. Try running on heating oil + a little bit of veg or motor oil (10% mix roughly) should be way cheaper as you can get heating oil for about 90ppl. This is how I know some folks run old diesel motors mix the oil to lubricate the kero but maybe the machines don’t even need the lubricant? Idk how they work
@@ElliHarper An oil boiler basically works the same way, but bigger. Normally they have electrodes with an arc as ignition, but pump wise I doubt there is any difference, so you would think kerosene should be fine. Need a guinea pig 😅
@@ElliHarper wrong the pump is a spring /electromagnet type cannot remember the name . i use one for heating and if using kerosine i add about 50ml of 2stroke oil per tank and that stops pump seizing up. p
Couple of suggestions from cold wintery Finland: Calculate the price comparison calculations via the thermal energy of diesel also. 350ml an hour is not 8kW - even at 100% effienciency. More like half of it. Also you have losses (exhaust, which you could utilize. Also consider taking air to burn from outside as now you are drawing cold air into the room for the unit to burn (this depends on your needs to ventilate but especially true if you have a ventilation system with heat re-capturing (heat exchanger between the hot-out and cold-in, like we have in the cold countries). Last thing is to insulate that gap under the sheet metal with some fire proof rock/glass wool. Now you have an unisulated spot there.... Or you could run the exhaust inside a long vent tube in and have your fresh air already preheated.
Diesel is easy to work out - it contains 10kWh per litre If he used 350ml in one hour - the machine was producing, *in total*, 3.5kWatts Of which easily half was going out through the exhaust. Just goes to show you don't need much heat energy to warm up a given space - if it's reasonably well-insulated and not draughty. A modest paraffin (kerosene) heater would do instead. No noise. No electrics needed and 100% heat output from similarly energy-dense fuel. Kerosene presently priced at about half the quoted price of red diesel. Small greenhouse heaters can be had for about £30 each Depending on room size (do check this) but in the UK, if the thing is rated at 5kW or less (500ml consumption per hour) you don't need a flue but get a carbon monoxide alarm anyway. Same applies to any fuel, natural gas, butane or propane. And the joy of the greenhouse heater is instant set-up and portability
@@peterbetts8740 Are paraffin heaters safe to use in a resident setting? Those used to be popular in the old days before modern central heating didn't they. You hear horror stories about people dying from carbon monoxide poisoning from falling asleep with one of those running in the same room either due to them being defective or no proper ventilation for the fumes..like you said though it comes down to having proper ventilation and a good carbon monoxide alarm detector. I expect modern paraffin heaters with technology built in are a lot safer than the old ones of the 1950's-1970's era. I used to work for a company which designed and manufactured carbon monoxide detection, measurement and alarm devices for industrial use but I didn't have much involvement in that side of their business. We used to sell a lot of them to breweries around the world I remember though!
@@peterbetts8740 Agreed. Using mains gas in the UK is nearly 3 times cheaper per Kw/h than using red diesel. Also remember, it doesn't take much energy to heat up air. The problem is, the walls, the floor and all the furniture and items are cold and will slowly absorb heat energy, so as soon as you turn off the heater, the temperature will drop rapidly. The question is, how long does it take to heat up the room and all the items in it. I'm sure it's good for workshops, but not really practical for domestic homes.
Great vid. Here's a tip; If you made a longer exhaust pipe and had most of this pipe on the inside of your workshop before exiting, you'd get even more heat inside.
I used a black steel pipe for the exhaust and installed a fireplace fan on top to pull even more heat from the exhaust. I can heat my sun room in the winter in subzero temperatures at the lowest setting. a gallon of diesel lasts about 2 days.
I’ve seen people making stainless steel pipe coils for hot tub heating. One of those used inline with the exhaust would work to use that residual heat.
The air intake hose is there to go outside of the building so that the air that you burn is not the heated air from inside causing a draft of cold air to come into the building to replace it. That burner uses a lot of air so in a small shop like yours, the cold air coming in will be quite noticeable. The heater I had came with a wall vent that the exhaust went out of the building though a metal tube that was surrounded by another tube. The exhaust went out the center tube and the air for the burner came into the building through outer tube preheating the combustion air and keeping the wall from getting heated by the exhaust.
I absolutely love my diesel heater. We spent a lot of time in the woods camping and it's opened up the winter season so we could be really comfortable without having to worry about propane or anything else
I have one in my workshop (converted garage) it's away from the house so solar powered, using recycle laptop batteries. After 20 minutes it's very toasty, I picked the bare bones one and got it for under £50. They are a great bit of kit. Great video, keep them comming.
Is your workshop off grid? - I’m very interested in that, and your recycled laptop batteries (what voltage are you using to power the control unit of the diesel heater?)
Hi all. Just too answer some questions. Yep totally off grid, 2 * 230w panels on roof feeding into an epever 30A controller that charges 560 (18650) reclaimed laptop batteries in a 7 series 80 parallel config. So aprox 28V 160A this feeds lights, radio and chargers with d.c and a 240v inverter when required. The heater runs on a 24V to 12V 30A adapter with a max draw off 10A for say 10 minutes for glow plugs, that drops to about 2A when running.
@@starbase69 nice one Matt, sounds like a pretty good set up and I guess you are fortunate to have a source of used laptop batteries for you home made “power wall” Did you design and build the system yourself? If so I hope you are using that skill in your day job too! Thanks for sharing mate! 👍
A cheap option for a mains 12V PSU is an old X-Box psu "brick". They output a solid 12V at a power of 135W (higher powers available for the older ones). You just need to remove the end connector & combine the individual wires into +ve and -ve groups and connect the 2 switch wires together so it's always on.
Or even an ATX PSU, you can get old used ones for like 5€, and they do hundreds of watts at 12V To turn it on outside of a computer you just have to short the green pin to any black (ground) pins.
@@LRTOTAL what about a ham radio power supply, they convert ac to dc 13.8v, many like the Jetstream brand sold by R and L Electronics you can adjust the voltage.
If the exhaust pipe is 300 C, you could easily run it through a heat exchanger a recover some heat for hot water or pre heating water for a steam engine - or just have another air to air heater going so you're using the exhaust heat, put a small pc fan on it to get flow.
Yep, exactly what i was thinking. 12v 120 or 140mm computer fan mounted underneath blowing air onto the exhaust both adds even more heat into the room and will drop exhaust temps i'm betting a fair bit to make that safer as well
I used to put a cover down the front of the radiator, in real,cold winters, it worked a treat for less cooling of the hot water circulation. Got de-mist faster too. But must be removed in warmer times
Except I had it a lil more as a 'closed' system with a cooler coil ran out into the cold and coming back to a coil on the exhaust before steaming again
Awesome. Heartbreaking about people freezing over Christmas in UK. I hope that y'all are able to keep warm this winter. I expect you should import and save these heaters while you can before they "become unavailable" in your country.
The way things are going these heaters will probably become illegal and force many people to submit to the large companies who want to monopolize the energy market. I'm using free waste vegetable oil from my local fish and chip shop. Coming soon. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I'm amazed that they give you the waste oil free of charge! I pay sixty cents a gallon for waste oil here in the U.S. and after filtering and treatment, I cut it with #2 heating oil to burn really clean. Anything to save on heat, it gets down to -20F where I am. Keep up the great work!
@@genefogarty5395 thank you. In the UK the garages have to pay someone to take it away. Small independent garages will give me as much as I want. Probably not the corporate ones as they have a system to obey. Cheers J
I've been using the exact heater for over 4 years now and it has worked flawlessly. I do however use Clear diesel as I found that the diesel fuel with dye in it tends to Coke up the glow plug which will either require cleaning or replacement, which is no big deal. By the way yes it does require a special socket to remove the glow plug which is also readily available at very little cost. I have three of these particular heaters one of which I use in the house which is mounted on a small inexpensive Harbor Freight welding cart. The welding cart holds the battery, the heater and a solar charge controller connected to a small solar panel which makes this a totally self-contained unit. One of the other units I have I use for a small hunting cabin, and the third I use to heat my garage. I highly recommend these to everyone I speak with and they are quite popular as well with my friends that have ice fishing shanties. I don't use mine 24 hours a day or when sleeping but I do use it all day long and with a full tank of fuel it will easily Heat my 700 square foot cabin using only about one tank every 2 days when set on some of the lower settings, " on two or three ". they're absolutely amazing and I highly recommend them to anyone! Just be sure to properly install the exhaust, that's the most critical item, plus I found the hose clamps they come with to be of very poor quality and I highly recommend that you replace the exhaust pipe one for a high quality all stainless heavy duty Marine type hose clamp and you'll have no issues with exhaust smell or exhaust leakage.
One of the most incredible videos I’ve ever seen. You knock this puppy out of the park. I purchased one of these and was looking to gain more information. You definitely hit most everything needed. Excellent job my friend.
As a mechanic and a tool buff myself, I love how you have all those specialized tools for all these small fabrication jobs. Yeah those heaters are great.
Few points to add. 1. Use a car battery and a 5A plus charger. 2.Check the exhaust connection for dangerous CO leakage and CO monitor is a must. 3. Keep a longer section of the exhaust pipe inside can help efficiency and put the metal plate in less thermal stress
@Roads To Nowhere it does have enough amps, use an used server power supply from HP or dell, it produces 12.3-12.6 volts, 63-90 amps, search DIY power supply, you have to put a resistor on the pinout for it to turn on and solder your own power leads, if series connecting you must learn to properly float the ground with plastic washers/ bolts/ , they cost $20 each on a popular site you can buy it from. learn something new
I run a simple heater like this all winter on my homestead in the middle of nowhere. They're golden. Easy to tune up when needed and they produce such good dry heat. Important when you live in a van. 🤠
15:35 If the exhaust is running (or at least peaking) at 240 C, that's a fair amount of heat going out the window. Maybe a secondary heat exchanger, which could be as simple as a cast iron radiator or just a long metal pipe, would reclaim that heat and increase the heat output while cutting fuel costs.
A simple power supply for these is a standard car battery coupled to a battery charger/optimiser, keeps the battery charged while in use and tops it up when not in use , simple reliable and effective , Good video
Plus, like Big duphus said above, these things don't like a "hard shutdown" which would happen if the AC power suddenly went out and the thing couldn't do it's cooldown cycle first. So your battery and charger idea is much better than just a 12V power supply.
Yes, you are right. I use a car battery and charger. Even if you are powering the heater from the mains, it is good to have a permanently connected car battery as a "safety buffer" in case the electricity goes out.
If you build a setup that will cool the exhaust gas to below 100C, you'll get another boost in efficiency, since you're burning hydrocarbons. Part of the exhaust will be steam. If you make that condense out, you get all the energy from turning water into steam back. Watch out: the other exhaust main component is CO2, which forms a minor acid with water. You'll need stainless steel or ceramic piping for the exhaust, otherwise it will corrode really quickly.
Thanks! I was absolutely amazed with this tutorial!!. I myself being a welder/fabrication teacher. I am currently teaching my children how important or is to have imagination to be a welder.. I found your tutorial amazing and I could not help but support a fellow welder/fabricator.. I wish you nothing but success, wealth and happiness in the future, you are an inspiration to many who are able to see what your doing and the fact that you are potentially helping those who do not have the money to heat their homes in the winter. God Bless you!
Thank you so much Bobby for your support. Your very kind and it's much appreciated. I have lots more to bring soon. Including a welder review that is TIG, MIG, Stick, Flux core and plasma In one machine, so we'll see if it's any good and I'll do my best to demonstrate all the processes and my tips I've learned over the years. God you and your family also. All the very best. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle your very welcome I look forward to seeing more of your videos. I was very impressed with your ability to make things so easily and use your imagination and apply it to different configurations.. you are a very intelligent person who is capable of providing people with the right info to help the less fortunate.. thats something I find amazingly useful.. good luck on your future endeavors and I wish you all the best.. keep doing what you do best.. God bless
The intake air filter is to keep bugs from entering and plugging a small hole within the burn chamber. It will not run if bugs get in there. Also a good idea to change the fuel line to the small, white hard line like Espar uses.
if you want to spend even less on heat there are a couple things you can do. 1 you can scavenge more heat from the exhaust before dumping it outside the wall. and 2 you can plumb the intake so it takes air from outside, because as it is since it's intaking air from inside and then exhausting it outside it must necessarily be sucking cold outside air into the workshop through what little gaps there are in the walls.
it's true but a workshop is so drafty typically the difference is....negligible unless your space is very air tight. Intake should be outside of course when possible.
the exhaust pipe is hot. Really hot. It can go lower down the wall before venting outside. Also, slanting the pipe at an angle will help the ambient air capture more of its heat.
A coaxial pipe would do the job! The exhaust pre heats the intake to avoid running freezing air in the combustion chamber. And only one hole going outside.
I thought you could lengthen the exhaust pipe before it goes outside , that way you will use a lot of the 200 degree exhaust that is heating the pipe to warm the workshop.
one my friend has the same heater and he connected exhaust pipe to an house type water radiator. it gets pretty hot as well from the exhaust giving like a lot of extra heat and even a place to dry hat and gloves. But it cant be too long and big, as then heater will throw error about exhaust not being able to leave.
For the internal part of the exhaust pipe you may craft a custom heatsink with a 12V-PC-fan to convert even the excess exhaust heat to additional energy. This may make the machine even more efficient. Or you may craft your own pipe and lay it through the room. Does create some custom work but it will make it even cheaper over long distance and more efficient and environmentally friendly. AtL. a bit.
hmn, i wonder if it could be used on a fuel source such as hydrogen and also in the process of it being used, it creates it's own hydrogen effectively creating an nearly endless supply of hydrogen to power the entire house. and provide free electricity for life. there is another guy who does this, but his method is only while using solar power to create his hydrogen, he collects 3 months out of the year into his tanks and the rest is used through out the year, he's been off the grid for nearly 30 years on his hydrogen system and hasn't needed to pay a electric bill because he reuses that created hydrogen to power his house.
Dude, just stumbled upon you and you are awesome! I've been looking at these heaters for a couple of years now for my remote cabin and now I think I will pull the trigger. Way more efficient than the propane burners I run at the moment when my wood stove dies out at night. You have another subscriber here!
You might consider running an inlet air duct from outside. Cold air being pulled into the room from outside through small air gaps due to the negative pressure created by the heater pumping its exhaust to outside can really hurt your heating efficiency. Just make sure your air inlet is far away from any exhaust pipes. Even better, would be to setup a heat exchanger where the intake air is pre-warmed by the heater's exhaust.
@@tech29X If air is being pulled out of the room, fresh air is coming in. Intake does not produce any gases. Human respiration does not produce CO. There is no safety issue with not having an external inlet. If the room is so well sealed that you'd actually run out of air, you breathing would cause the same problem and the issue is with the design of the room, not the heater.
@@Teth47 Good thing if air is being pulled in from outside; "Carbon monoxide (CO), a low molecular weight gas, is a ubiquitous environmental product of organic combustion, which is also produced endogenously in the body, as the byproduct of heme metabolism."
Being a newly retired radio ham/code cutter/AWS wrangler/micro-ctrl--sbc fan/build anything nut, I have been looking at how to heat my shack/shed/w-shop without (expensive) electric heaters. So after viewing this excelent video I ordered a 8KW VEVOR Air Heater from the local AUS supplier (yes stoked i was able to buy one from an AUS supplier) I am super pleased with this beast. Awesome solution, works very well and cost 3 fifths of stuff all to run... Thanks Josh loved your work....
Great review. I have a similar unit that's been in service for 4 years now with no issue. It definitely takes a bit of experience to set them up properly but it's been a fantastic unit so far.
Two things I would change to your exhaust port - open it back up and stuff the cavity full with non-combustible mineral batt insulation (Rockwool), then remount. Then install a drip cap over the top of the exhaust outlet to get the drip line away from the siding and opening and seal the gap with a thermal rated sealant. Very nice and clean install!
Some of these diesel heaters come with this green, flexible fuel line, which is fine from the tank to the pump, but the pump puts out such a small pressurized pulse that the green line expands and minimizes the quality of the analyzation in the commotion chamber. The smaller diameter, hard plastic tubing allows pressure to be maintained and cleaner combustion result.
My thoughts on the "filter", its meant to be outside so you don't create a draft and suck cold air into the room like you would if the intake is inside. The plastic mesh is just to stop spiders from going in the air intake and clogging it up with webs.
That is exactly what it is intended for, the air intake for the heater is suppose to be outside of the vehicle (or building) and the unit itself should be inside.
If flow restriction from ice/frost is a concern with outside air over a small surface area just grab an air intake from a junkyard car, keep a spare filter on hand for a quick fix if it ices over.
The intake can also be inside for faster heating by recirculating hot air that is already inside the room instead of sucking cold fresh air from the outside. Every modern car has the recirculating option.
@@moeman2790 I believe the air intake everyone is commenting on is only for the combustion portion of the heater. The shop air circulates around the outside of the heat exchanger. The fan (shown in the video) blows the shop air over the heat exchanger and out the duct connection. The combustion section is a closed system and doesn't mix with the shop air if the intake is routed outside.
Truckers been using these for years for their cab heater when they sleep and it also had a block heater circulating your coolant to your engine. You could always run a couple radiators with fans across the house and put the radiator hoses through the wall so you could heat your living room Den and also your bedrooms separate with their doors closed. You have to check the different kinds available. Google up some truck shows and start visiting them see what is on the market these days. Every major city has one Salt Lake Anaheim Dallas. BTW the reason red diesel is red is they just put a dye in it to turn your fuel filters red and they can see it in the tank at a Port of Entry. If they see red dye then you get a big fine for tax evasion. Because that's Road tax. The red diesel does not get Road tax.
In Germany it's two different things. The red stuff is named Heizöl what translates heating oil and you are allowed to use it in tractors on a Farm. The stuff in trucks is named Diesel like in USA it seems. Technically it's the same stuff only in red. Heizöl is 1,23€ per Liter(for 100l ) Diesel 1,74€ per Liter (19.12.22) 1gallon=3,75l
@@Harrington2323 it's the same in the US also. We call regular road fuel #1 diesel and off road/farm use is called #2 diesel which is dyed red. The only difference is the red dye and that you're paying a "road tax" on the #1.
6m x 3m x 2.5 tall. You are the only YT smith who works in a space smaller than the one I have for my hobby level tinkering. Serious respect for the ability, never mind the economic saving on heating.
You shouldn't discard the inlet pipe and filter. You should use the inlet pipe to supply fresh outside air to the combustion chamber. That way you won't be drawing in cold air into your shop to replace the air being drawn directly into the heater and exhausted to the outside. The filter on the inlet keeps out bugs, hair, and other debris from clogging up the heater.
This type of heater, minus the big orange enclosure, is pretty much standard equipment on long haul trucks in the US. They're an absolute godsend; it's about 8°C outside right now and I'm toasty in my jeans and tee shirt, without having to idle the main engine. The little heater burns less than a gallon during a 10 hour break while idling the prime mover is often more than a gallon an hour!
@@kennethkeen1234 the truck is 450 hp from a 12.7 liter engine. A US gallon is 16 US cups which might as well be cubic femtoparsecs for as well as they translate to normal units.
My first thought as you mentioned in your video was safety but noise too Joshua. So I would mount it externally on a wall and build a weather proof enclosure around it and pipe the heat in probably through a two ducts from one heat outlet.
If you want to add more energy in and less out (by the exhaust), one guy installed an aluminum tubing from a used electric baseboard . Dissipation of that heat was done inside before exhausting out. The longer the tube the lower the heat loss outside. David McLuckie made the calculation from exhaust (around 800 watts), so it is better to keep that heat in, but make sure connections are tight (aka CO risk...)
I was just thinking this. So much heat was being lost and if you can somehow harness the Heat from the exhaust, it would be great… Maybe hot water heater with a coil??
I have one similar in my van that i live in when working away from home. Its plumbed straight into my fuel tank, which obviously makes it a bit more expensive to run but when its sub zero outside and its toasty in the van its worth it. As a side note, look up the water heaters you can add to these, absolutely brilliant
I put my exhaust through a heat exchanger from an old boiler and heated hot water. Also, I directly fed the exhaust through a radiator. My thoughts were if you could use the waste heat from the exhaust, then it might make nearer 8kw. All I can say is it heated the workshop a lot more. Always think about condensation in the exhaust train!
Ha I commented asking if something like this would make sense to try. I absolutely would do what you described. Keep as much of that heat in your space as you can.
I'm preparing my heater for use in a large tent, and found in the instructions that the exhaust pipe can be a whole meter long! I'm getting one and will run most of it inside of the tent for heating, then stick as short as possible through to the outside.
@@gwaponobby I'm going by the specs in the manual. I could always experiment with a longer pipt to see if the heater still worked correctly, but 1 meter long is what the manual says.
You should consider in-line wago connectors for your electrical connections. They’ve got a pretty wide range of acceptable gauges, they’re easy to use, and you can safely re-use them pretty much forever! I think they still send free samples too.
An old timer's tip for the jagged fuel line hole you deburred: Cut a scrap or used length of fuel line to fit the perimeter of the hole. Lay it between two pieces of wood or metal & use a knife to split one side the full length of the fuel line. Slip the split fuel line over the rough edge of the hole. If the line is cut to length accurately, it will stay in place without adhesive. If needed use some contact adhesive to affix the re-purposed fuel line. Been using this technique for 50+ years without one failure. Works well in vibrating invironments, too. (Machinery, automotive, marine, etc) Hope this helps someone.
From another old-timer - I've been using that tequnique for about 50 years also. But I can't remember where I got the idea. I think it may have been when I saw pipe insulation with a pre-cut slit so you could slip it over pipe, rather than wrapping miles of bandage round the pipes.
@@cfc1907 We were using this way before split pipe insulation. I can remember when the only readily available pipe insul was strips of fiberglass insulation; made by the only company that made stuff like that... Weather King... Freeze King... can kinda remember the logo... had lots of orange on their plastic bags. They made those chinsy window insulation kits of whisper thin plastic sheeting & thin pĺastic strips w/ psa. I think I learned the split hose trick from my uncle/Godfather. He had me working in his auto repair at 12. He'd grown up in NJ. A 1st gen Italian-American, he started sweeping floors in a Ford dealership in Jersey City at 13. By age 15, he was a line mechanic for the brand new Model A's. I was nuts about cars. Been building models of real cars from Hot Rod & Car Craft mags. I'd do basic engine wiring, custom radiator hoses, made tube headers from telephone signal wire & the ink tubed from Bic pens & 'sheet metaled the interiors of the race cars w/ card stock painted silver. He figured it was time I worked on the real thing... LOL
In the UK we use the outside grey insulation from domestic wiring. Cut down the side and remove the inner wires and it leaves a U profile soft plastic that grips like a grommet
@@mattydare You must have better wire than we do in the states. Everything here, except very expensive high temp wire w/ silicone insulation, (a dream to work with), uses PVC. It's hard to cut, doesn't hold it's shape, nor have enough elasticity to use the way we're talking about. I hate the stuff; power cords on appliances & tools fight you while trying to coil them, & you haven't lived until you're making a solder connection & one of the stiff azz wires slips flinging hot solder & flux in your face. I'm thinking I may have to wear a full face shield like I use when riding my 9" side grinder. LOL GeoD
@@georgedennison3338 Sorry mate, I'm not an electrician but AFAIK its PVC heat moulded onto copper wire. They use chalk dust to prevent the different layers of insulation sticking to each other so there is always 2 layers of insulation between you and the angry pixies at 240v.
A few suggestions from an aged observer of alternative fuels. Mr Diesels engine was originally designed to run on Peanut oil, that particular point is not entirely relevant but keep it in mind, diesels do not need diesel to run on, regular diesel is just usually cheaper and easier that the legal alternatives. In the past there are plenty of people who have run engines/ cars on waste cooking oil, vegetable oil, waste oil. The best practice for running these engines and prolonging their life was to start and stop them on regular diesel, warm them to working temperature then switch to the alternative fuel. The heat generated from the diesel warm up was used to pre heat the alternative fuel and ensure that it could flow freely in the pipes. The shut down process switched back to regular diesel in order to flush the alternative fuel from the feed pipes and ensure clog free starting. This was mainly to ensure that certain waste cooking oils etc. were at sufficient temperature that they could flow freely and not clog pipes. This would all depend on which alternative fuel you were to elect to use. I have seen plenty of people use these heaters (in the basic unit configuration) to heat mobile homes, live in vans etc. many have had success, a few have had problems and some have changed to alternatives. It would appear to be that you pays you money and takes your chances, some people have come to the conclusion that the basic heater should be changed every year because it is cheap Chinese stuff, others go till it breaks then replace.
True, I use a mixture of kerosene (petroleum) and diesel. At first pure kerosene, which was much cheaper than diesel, but not anymore. Kerosene burns more cleaner and seems to deliver more heat, it also preempts forming curds in diesel when left in cold storage.
Excellent Vevor heater demo video. Heartily recommend buying separate heater for safety reasons, not the All-in-one, because you can mount the heater sideways (glow plug up) and exhaust directly thru the wall. This eliminates the theoretical risk of CO (Carbon Monoxide) leak from the flex exhaust line, which in these type of kits is not necessarily the best, nor is the clamp fit perfect. Of course, CO can still leak around the orange glow plug silicone cover, but one less thing to worry about. Would love to see you engineer/demo one of the rare versions of this heater that heats both air AND water. Great for RV (or even house) water heater preheat. There are only a couple of them out there, Webasto clones or modified air heater exchangers.
I purchased this unit in 2024 and it works good. As for commissioning, I just connected the intake/exhaust, 12V, added fuel, and then powered on and went full blast for 48 hours. No problems, and it’s very efficient.
Just an important safety note. As it is set up right now, the exhaust is leaking carbon monoxide into your workshop. The metal heater outlet, hose clamped to the metal exhaust, is not creating a good seal. If your heater is not properly tuned (most of these are not, out of the box - ideally, they should be custom-tuned for your specific intake/exhaust setup and elevation) you will probably soon notice soot stains coming out of the gap as evidence of the leak. While the leak probably isn't huge, and these heaters normally don't produce huge amounts of CO, this can still kill you. These heaters can also produce huge amounts of CO if anything goes slightly wrong, for instance a partially blocked intake or exhaust, bad fuel, sooting up from age, the tune being wrong for any one of the heater's power settings, etc. The air intake should also be outside, facing the same direction as the exhaust, to minimize the effect of the wind on burn efficiency, which can cause sooting, leading to CO, etc. etc. I recommend sealing the exhaust connection with the highest temp automotive silicone you can find; I use Permatex 81878 and it has held up well, though I reseal it every couple years as the exhaust temps are right at the limit of what it can handle, and silicone will degrade with heat over time regardless.
Maybe diesel can produce CO if burned but in an old diesel car, you are safe from CO poisonings! Funny enough modern diesel cars produce CO AND very small and dangerous particles that really can cause you serious health problems and even kill you! But people think it's clean when it's not any black smoke witch in fact was much less dangerous to inhale...
I see so many people leaving the air intake for the burn chamber inside which will slowly pull heat out of your building or whatever you are heating. Good to finally see someone comment the correct way
Its good practice to have a Carbon Monoxide detector in any room in which things are burned. I run a wood fired Sauna. You would be surprised by how often that thing goes off...
If you put the combustion intake inside you will never get carbon monoxide poisoning! As it may be leaking 5% but 95 % of the intake is getting pushed outside
Got one of these. The tank above the burner is bloody dangerous in my opinion. I had a diesel leak from the hose going from the tank, there was diesel everywhere and a fog of white diesel smoke coming through the air ducts because the leaked diesel had been pulled in to the air inlet. There was also a lot of diesel around the exhaust, dripping on to it and smoking something fierce. I've since put the tank and the pump outside the casing, as well as added a filter. It's now much safer, and I can fill up the tank while the heater is running without worrying about spilling. It manages around 5KW I'd say, and it burns clean and is relatively quiet. With the modifications, I am now quite happy with it.
Great video, and I am sorry your fuel costs have skyrocketed! That is absolutely shameful in 2022, in a modern western country that people may be freezing. Our politicians that caused all this won't be freezing at all.
Those politicians should all be forced to go without heat or electricity all winter see how they like it. Accountability and term limits need to be set stat
I saw this video when it came out and bought the same one here immediately in the USA for $109 (that includes tax and delivery). I've used it only twice but it's OUTSTANDING! Something this cheap has no right to be so effective! Anyway, looking forward to mounting it in a light camp trailer and heading out this winter. Great video!
@@joshuadelisle THANK YOU! This inspired me to experiment. For just ~$100 USD it's been amazing! Cheap, light, and effective. Can't wait to put on my camper build. Thanks again!
I think the intake tube filter/muffler is supposed to balance the intake exhaust to help with an efficient burn. I know in boat installs they say to match the length of intake to the exhaust.
I'm exactly that a boat builder and I fitted these for years too. You are correct but the full story is that in boat applications the runs are sometimes huge so you need rigid type fuel lines so there's no expansion in them and you need to know how to programme the hidden settings for fan voltage and AFR so you can then dial the unit in so the burner temp is perfect 167deg with 20deg ambient intake and 14:1 AFR and if its not 20deg at the time you need to do your maths and suit it to your ambient temp to get it running perfect. Typically on boats the fueling needs messed about with the most and it's always adding to the pump frequency so they burn more fuel in general. In a garage or whatever if I had a larger one (the cheap copy 8kw are really a 5kw) you can get away with leaning them out a bit to save fuel as long as you know its likely to go through plugs a wee bit quicker.
Thought this was a new product but as soon as you took the cover off I realised it’s the same Chinese diesel heater people have been using in their camper vans for years… just without the outer casing, and using a separate tank. They are pretty decent.
I want to thank you for your review. We bought 2 last year and are planning on using them in our Bus Conversion. It's and old School bus, and those underseat heaters just didn't work properly. Plus we will be having a marine wood burner for a back up. I was most interested in your flow rate of fuel and am completely blown away. These will not cost us nearly as much as we previously thought to run. We will be putting in external tank feeds, as where we want to put the unit in a small space, and it would make it impractical to fill in a traditional way. Fortunately I have experience working with external pumps filling closed off tanks without mucking it up. Again thank you very much for busting your cherry on this review.
what i am most interested in w/ those heaters is if you can scavange the exhaust heat, i thought about running the exhaust trough a longer section of pipe that coils inside a drum filled w/ water, or having the exhaust feed into a large heat exchanger like a normal radiator you would normally have in a house when you have hot water heating would love to see those ideas tested as i sadly lack the tools or space to do such experiments
@@PlateletRichGel thats why you experiment, to see if its possible and does not impede the exhaust too much, my first suggestion w/ the barrel of water and pipe shud not impede exhaust much at all as its only a slightly longer exhaust in the end, the radiator tho is something that needs to be looked at as the baffled nature of it would put up resistance
I was very fortunate to get a portable diesel heater for £59 last year so I bought 4 of them , I use one in my garage, one in my shed workshop and the other 2 I have for spares just in case. I love them , both the workshop and garage have solar so I use AGM batterys to power them both.
I can see these becoming a business venture. With a package of heater, deep cycle battery, solar panel, ducting etc an entire system could be built outside a home(for safety) and duct hot air inside a home, or new build, for probably less than £1000 and capable of heating an average size home for a few pence an hour. A solar panel(with mains back up) to recharge the battery and, if the heater fails, it can be swapped out for a brand new one for £80 + fee, the old heater fixed, cleaned and reused. The initial outlay maybe expensive but it would soon pay for itself. Or even the same system heating water through an existing radiator system? The way electricity and gas prices are rising people will be turning to alternative heat and power sources, mainly things like opening fireplaces/chimneys for wood/coal burning for heating and cooking and solar/batteries for power... ironically the extortionate electricity/gas prices is going to cause more people to burn fossil fuels, something the government is trying its hardest to end!
I've got one in my home, and it warms just fine for several years now. It is connected to my own solar system, with 12volt traction battery, so the power supply is also free. To clean you can sometimes use petroleum, that cleans the system. When friends or strangers come, they find it a super idea 😊
@@s1dew1nd3r4 Mine runs on a 100 amp hour lithium LFP battery box with a built in 6 amp charger. The watts needed to run vary with the heat setting as the pump and fans turn faster with higher heat output. I see 19 watts to 48 watts when I run H2 to H6 heat settings. But the startup and shutdown sequences use a lot more power temporarily as it heats the glow plug for a while. Maybe 130 watts for a minute or 2.
Will definitely subscribe for that steam turbine. That sounds really interesting. I always wondered how they keep the steam pressure from blowing back through the water intake and keep everything moving in the right direction. Look forward to it. :)
Hi, thanks for video, here is some things you might think about: - Intake of burner must be taken from outside, as you let out other tube. now you are venting heated air to outside, its not a big deal, but when -20c and want to run quietly... - thermometer is not so good on controller, but you can use to "set" certain temp. - 5.5hz is 5kw heater. 5,8kw units are the same. - you can calculate consumption via pump hertz to get more consum information if needed :) - running on lower setting will have ALOT less consumption of power, you can use your 13.8v ac adaptor (if you use a small lead acid battery in pararell for igniting) Here on finland electricity prices is about the same, abit more. like 30-60cents/kwh in euro total atm, and there will be alot problems of poor people paying bills as we need heat long time, as we are on north.
One thing must not be forgotten when you want to extract heat from the exhaust gas: if it cools down to 100 °C, the water vapor can condense and mix with the carbon dioxide to form carbonic acid. The condensation boiler is also created (the flue gas is cooled to 75-80°C), which is why it is made of acid-resistant material (preferably). If you still want to extract heat and do not want to install another heat exchanger, then the temperature of the flue gas must not go below 120°C under any circumstances.
when you took the side panel off @2:18 , that heater unit, is the one they have been selling for nearly 15 years. I have two. And without the large box that yours comes in, makes it very easy to install 'under-floor'. And you can locate the 10L fuel reservoir anywhere to your liking. Great information. Cheers for sharing.
This is a great video, and you obviously have the right attitude about helping people improve their situation in these increasingly hard times. I think you did a great job here, and I just wanted to add something that might help someone understand something that could be life saving. because of the trade I worked in (and still do in a less formal capacity due to age and health) I have spent a fair bit of time around many many different versions of this basic design of heater. Edit: as another commenter says further down, CO is actually neutrally buoyant in air, it's CO2 that sinks. Still, all the rest applies, and of course CO2 is toxic and also a product of combustion. All I can say is my exams were many years ago, and it seems I need to double check my terrible memory more often. To the commenter that brought this to my attention, thanks again, mits important that info like this be accurate, and I appreciate the reminder. As a journeyman pipe fitter, gasfitter and plumber, which is the set of trades in Canada which deal with gas fired appliances, I want to offer an EXTREMELY serious warning. Do NOT operate units like this without a carbon monoxide detector, plus a backup carbon monoxide detector installed in the room. I would suggest one near the unit, and above it, which will detect any exhaust gasses escaping the heat exchanger warm enough to rise (carbon monoxide normally sinks, but hot gases rise), place the other one at least a foot below the level at which the mouth and nose of any person in the room would be located. So if its a sleeping room, have the second detector near the floor. A workshop with a pit of any kind should have a third detector down in the pit. If in a room heated by a gas fired appliance you start to feel your eyes burn or develop a headache, shut the heater off and leave the room IMMEDIATLY. Look up the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning and understand them, and explain them to those others who use thew room as well. Cheap heat exchangers tend to corrode, and bad welds sometimes crack, either of these will result in the products of combustion entering your breathing air, which is extremely dangerous. Heaters like this are cheap partly because they are less well constructed, so make sure there are no holes or cracks in the heat exchanger when it arrives, and inspect it carefully OFTEN to make sure heat cycling has not created any cracks. Properly used by someone who takes adequate provisions for carbon monoxide detection, understands how to maintain good combustion in the burner, and who inspects for wear and damage is fairly safe, but there is a greater risk using a product like this than from alternatives. I personally would use a heater like this because I am well versed in how they might fail, and how to be safe, but if you are not properly informed, BECOME INFORMED before you install something like this. .ot's of people use them all over the world, a similar system heats my camper, and truckers often use them in their sleeper cabs. it can reach -50 here for weeks, and they work great. Oh and lastly: If you have pets, understand that since they breath so close to the ground, they will die of poisoning before normal detectors that install above the floor may even ring the alarm, so ensure ground level detection of carbon monoxide gas exists if you have a shop cat. The only carbon monoxide fatality I knew personally was a friends very beloved dog, who slept curled up near a heater like this one. It was very sad, my friend had never thought about the possibility that the first person to start breathing CO would be his dog, and had his detectors mounted in places that made sense for people in a workshop, but not a wheezy old bulldog that slept on a cushion in the warmest part of the shop. It might not be just you that you need to protect. Again, GREAT video, great channel in fact, keep up the great work, you have a subscriber in me.
@@joshuadelisle Thanks for letting me know you sw it, have you thought of doing a video on inspecting and testing various sorts of machinery, or one on potential failure modes and risks? Maybe you already have, I haven't had toime to really run through your content. Anyway, hope things are going well for you over there in the isles.
I've got a loan to get solar panels on, but that doesn't help regarding heating I've got someone to do an air tightness test for me, to see exactly where I'm leaking air, in order to help remedy where I'm leaking air. The idea is to make it as air tight as possible, and then save up for an MVHR I essentially want to use PassivHaus principles but not necessarily going full PassivHaus because at some point, you get diminishing returns The biggest take aways from the institute for me are : Air tightness Add MVHR Maybe upgrade Windows and doors Upside radiators for a heat pump
I bought a chain-fall hoist from Vevor as well as a beam clamp they sell. The two worked wonderfully to anchor the chain-fall to a beam in my garage and let me lift heavy loads in and out of a truck and hopefully will allow me to pull my project car's engine soon. I'll be looking at these diesel-fired heaters, as while the garage is insulated and wired for power, it's not set up for heating and something like this could work well to take the edge off during the winters.
I too have a number of Vevor products and would have no problem recommending them, generally speaking cheap Chinese junk today has become cheap Chinese products, everyone will tell of a disaster but no one mentions the many happy customers. The lower prices also makes many tools available to the average person which would have been cost prohibitive, can only be good😊.
As an American who's primary winter heat is wood... who lives in a very fire prone area where it gets freezing cold often a month or more before I can safely burn fires, I've been debating one of these. Our power bills aren't as insane as yours, but they've about doubled over the last year.
@@Cotronixco The irony of someone who can't be arsed to write a complete sentence or use punctuation having the stones to correct other people's grammar amuses me to no end.
@@drackar No wonder it's so difficult for you. I mention the word using a very friendly attitude, and you respond by fighting with all your being to make sure you retain your stupidity. You've probably done this for years. Take advantage of the new knowledge instead of foolishly fighting it.
@@drackar Oh? As a hurting person, do you really think that adding more information to correct the misspelled word would have been effective and necessary?
*Joshua: "...but it's illegal?" Being of a Tech bent, you landed in my right-column this morning. After watching this presentation and reading the top 50 or so Comments; confirms to me how absolutely soul crushingly bleak it must be to function today as a Free Citizen and not a Subject in the UK or EU west of the Visegrad Nations. Stay the course you have set because you are doing God's will. Respect and Cheers!*
Thank you so much. They're now banning wood fires here... we've used fire for over 6000+ years and it's totally sustainable but they want us to use the grid which is controlled by corporations.... I'm going to do my best to find the loop holes and reasonable alternatives otherwise I may leave this degenerative country for the wild somewhere. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle *You're very welcome. The goal is clear. No fireplaces or wood stoves for those who wish to use them denies a basic human need inherent in our DNA and assures a more State-subservient populace. Eventually, come Advent/Yuletide Season the proles might only experience a crackling fire on their TVs. The dystopian, Soviet vibe is strong. Pity, that. Your narrative makes me count my Blessings even more: Quite coincidentally, my annual order of a US Cord (3.625 cu metres) of split, dried Red Oak/Almond/Citrus/Walnut mix arrives Monday. Again, respect and Cheers!*
Those are the type of heaters included in commercial truck APU kits for heating a sleeper cab in winter without running the truck. Just mount the burner unit under the bunk and run a fuel line out to oone of the saddle tanks. They work very well. I had one warm my sleeper compartment in -45f wind chill temps (-25 air temp)
They are awesome in a Semi , as long as your batteries hold out. In the early days before genpac's battery life was an issue. Technology has made big jumps since.
Well presented. One thing to note regarding your calculation for "how much more efficient it is than electric" compares direct heating (which I know is popular in Brittan). The latest generation heat pumps have SCOP above 6, meaning every kW in equals 6kW heat out. The upfront investment is of course on different levels, but with pre 2022 prices the heat pump will have lower running costs. Add factors such as interest on loans and it gets kind of messy but it's kind of amazing how efficient latest generation heat pumps have gotten. (For anyone looking up "what heat pump has SCOP>6" there's the Thermia Atlas that I know of)
What is worth noting is that heat pump "steals" heat from one spot to other using some form of agent. Usually it's RA134a and RA134a has a boiling point of -26 degrees. This is important because it means that heat pump cannot "generate" more heat if it's input side is lower than -26 degrees. It's very probable for air operated heat pumps for that to happen, it happens much less often with ground heat pumps. Also the closer to -26 degrees you get, the less efficient heat pump is. Heat pump with SCOP above 6 will not have SCOP above 6 if input is below -20 degrees. Some heat pumps have resistive heater built in as fallback to -26 degrees limitation
@@darekmistrz4364 in which case, one of these diesel powered bad boys would be a good fallback for when it's colder than -26, or when the power is out as It can be 12v powered! Or be an absolute mad man and rig it up as a pre heater for the heat pump lol
@@darekmistrz4364 your mostly right apart from the gas. 134 is the old automotive gas (phased out now) You wouldn't find that in a house heat pump. Mostly there R32 thease days
@@darekmistrz4364 -26 I can assure you isn't something we expect to see in the UK as a rule. -16 maybe on a few nights of the year in only a few spots. Being an island, we are surrounded by sea and it would take an Ice Age to freeze that and TBH that's not where global temperatures are trending.
@@joshuadelisle just keep in mind there is a max 2 meter exhaust travel allowance with a max of 270 deg bends along that 2 meters of exhaust pipe. If you go longer or have more bends (like 4x 90s) the unit will start to suffer in performance. As well, these burners need to be run hot every so often to help keep carbon and coke buildup to a min, more so if burning waste oil. Most of the criticism that waste oil doesn't work is from people who don't do this. The fun part is you can try different blends of oil/diesel/gas even brake fluid with these heaters and get good results.
As a full time vanlifer a chinese diesel heater is not just a luxury but a life saver! Last winter hit -10°C and without a CDH i'd have frozen to death. I run mine on kerosene (heating oil) which i can buy 'off the pump' at a local garage at 99.9 pence per litre. I have a 2Kw unit and it burns roughly a litre a night (10hrs) so it's a pound a night to heat my van 👍🏻
Wabasso and S bar have been making those for years. If you look at their installation instructions they tell you that the air intake hose and the exhaust hose have to be a certain length for proper combustion. The air in the shelter also helps out with the noise.
They also make them in a tiny little 12v version that fits inside of a truck or lorry sleeping area. There are no thermostat settings, so you can get roasted!
Yeah I used to fit them on Lorries and Boats, im a boat builder now. You can use extended exhausts, burner intakes and exchange intakes and outs but if you introduce too many bends in them you need to go into the fueling and fan settings and modify them so it's burning closer to 14:1 again. It's not difficult to do but if you are fitting the genuine ones on a boat then everything has long runs on it. On boats and just as a mod to get them running really good you need to replace the fuel tubing with the rigid type and run them into proper rubber hoses with clamps just as they leave each connector. They make cheapo copy kits of the boat fuelling hoses and I've been told they work fine. Watch what fuel filter you buy as they are known to disintegrate cheap filters and never lengthen the controller panel wiring without figuring our the wire resistances first as that can cause all sorts of issues. See if you are using nasty biofuels or garbage diesel run them flat out for a few mins before you turn them off as it saves your heater plug and keeps them clean. Using a mains power supply for them will always be a timebomb because if you get any sort of power cut or spike it will instantly turn off without the shutdown cooling sequence and it will burn out the inner PCB and the internal wiring on these cheap ones. The genuine ones can take about 5 or 6 hard shutdowns. Cheers.
This looks really interesting! Thanks for demonstrating it! One thing I would have a hard time with would be the noise that it makes. I would not want this machine in my living space. I might set it up in an adjacent room that I don't spend time in, like a utility room or something, and blow the heat into my living space from there. You've got a really intelligent crowd here! One of the smartest comment sections I've seen.
And yeah, the workmanship is pretty shoddy, but that doesn't bother me much. As long as the components are decent, I can fix up anything that needs it. Translates to a great price!
Great review Joshua - fantastic how you took the product apart inspected and explained its workings and then carried out a “controlled” test. Excellent content once again. 👏👍✊👌
Thank you Trevor, I've discovered other factors since so I'll include those in the follow up. things like how to calculate the out put and is it really 8kw, what is the electrical consumption and can we heat water using the exhaust. cheers J
@@nickwinn7812 well we were told the size of the room, and we saw the temperature at the start and at the finish by the :-( and happy smiling face :-) Based on the room size and temperature difference it's possible to work it out.
@@Google_Does_Evil_Now It' not possible to be over 100% efficient, full stop. Plus you need to know the heat loss calculation for the room, not it's size.
In the 1990s you were supposed to register your waste oil burner which cost £100 and another £100 for a licence every year , and once they knew about you the cost go up yearly ......obviously i never did register which saved £thousands !
These are fitted to lorries busses and used to be exclusively ‘Wabasto’ brand (sp) which were about a grand to buy! Once they get the space to temperature, the fan slows down to almost silent, just topping up the heat, so efficiency will rocket at that point.
I have a Defender 90 for work and was thinking about one of these kits for dual purpose - to dry wet gear in the back overnight and to have her toasty in the cold mornings. Some have timer starts. Not keen on drilling the body though as she’s a good’un. I’ve also read breaking into the fuel lines can cause issues with starting/running both, and getting to the fuel sender for a feed is a pain on defenders. I’ll get to it someday! Glad I’ve found your channel 👍🇬🇧
The 'kink' s you describe it in the fuel feed line is actually intentionally put there as a simple fuel metering device. Don't take it out or you will get over rich fuel feed into the boiler....don't ask how I learned this. Edit to add: Don't worry about what appear to be constant small air bubbles in the fuel line going from the pump outlet to the burner. These bubbles are a natural by product of the way the pump operates and they assist in controlling the way the fuel is delivered and atomised to the burner chamber. The bubbles are not a fault in the system.
The kink is not intentional, it's a fault. Any flow restrictor would be (and is) inside the unit, the fuel pipe is just that and a kink is a potential failure point. My unit does not have any kinked fuel pipes.
All the Chinese made heaters (8 of them in total) that I have serviced have exactly the same crimp deliberately placed in the delivery tube from the pressure side of the pump. The manufacturers confirmed that it is there as a simple form of fuel metering device. If the crimped section is cut out and the feed pipe reconnected without that restriction then the heater burns in a vastly overfueled manner with a rich air to fuel mixture and clouds of black smoke issuing from the exhaust....trust me I once made the error of removing it from the pipe on a heater and it was impossible to get it to run without loads of sooty smoke coming from the exhaust. It isn't simply a 'kink' in the pipe it is a section of the pipe with a deliberate crimp in it. On more expensive Webasto type heaters costing several hundred ££££s more than these cheap import heaters the fuel is metered through a metering block with a jet in it.
@@howardosborne8647 Can you tell me what page of the installation manual mentions putting a kink in the pipe, I have one in my hand and can't find it anywhere. Sorry, I'm calling out your bs, it is complete nonsense that an external pipe would need to be restricted in order to make the device work properly. Perhaps the simple fact is that your devices were improperly calibrated, or possibly calibrated for a smaller capacity pump. Fuel metering is achieved by changing the frequency with which the pump is pulsed, 5.5Hz was the frequency shown in the video and I'm supposing this was for a 22ml pump. If you used a webasto 28ml pump you would be overfuelling by about 27% which would explain your sooty results.
Funnel the exhaust pipe through an old radiator before going outside and wasting heat. Use air intake to heater through shroud on radiator to recapture the heat to preheat the intake air which will increase efficiency.
I fitted a cab heater (Eberspacher) in my workshop over 25 years ago before the cheap versions were available, as others have pointed out it is preferable to run the instalation via a 12v battery and battery charger, this will ensure correct shut down procedure in the event of a mains powe failure. Even if its running when the power fails eventually the low battery voltage wiill shut the until down correctly without damage.
@@codprawn Since most heat with electric I believe it has more to do with reducing the need for using mains power to cycle it on and off and more of how to keep it reliable and affordable to stay warm in the winter. If you have a solar "generator" you could stick solar panels outside during the day and recharge the "generator" for when you use it at night, since consumes very little when running a 1000w one should be more than enough to run it with just solar charging it. Of course some of those can be used as an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) so it would be topped up if/when the power goes out, of course you will still need to charge it somehow if power remains out.
Just discovered you this eve Joshua, absolutely loved this video. I am a self employed welder fabricator/ engineer and was thinking of getting the usual expensive brand of these heaters and doing the same in my workshop. This unit seems a good punt for the price. looking forward to seeing your other stuff.
Thank you. I'm starting to doubt using Chinese products from a sustainability and economic point but who can pay for locally made thanless you build it yourself.. cheers J
These type heaters were used on Trojan Earth moving equipment 30 years ago . These units are more like a 3 kw unit as they were used to heat the cabs ( which are the size of the drivers seat of your car ) in the winter .
One very important note. Normally, homes are heated not with resistive heating elements but with heat pumps that use the vapor compression cycle. These typically operate at a coefficient of performance of between 2 and 5. This refers to the energy required to move a quantity of heat between two points. For example, a heat pump operating at a COP of 5 would only require 200 watts to move 1,000 watts of heat from the outside environment to the inside. Heat pumps are also used to cool by operating in reverse. It's important to consider the efficiency of heat pumps when doing this kind of comparison. Still looks like a good product given the outrageous energy costs in Europe.
Worth noting is that heat pump "steals" heat from one spot to other using some form of agent. Usually it's RA134a and RA134a has a boiling point of -26 degrees. This is important because it means that heat pump cannot "generate" more heat if it's input side is lower than -26 degrees. It's very probable for air operated heat pumps for that to happen, it happens much less often with ground heat pumps. Also the closer to -26 degrees you get, the less efficient heat pump is. Heat pump with SCOP above 5 will not have SCOP above 5 if input is below -20 degrees. Some heat pumps have resistive heater built in as fallback to -26 degrees limitation
@@darekmistrz4364 RA134a has already phased out, modern heat pumps in last 5 years are using R32. R32 boiling point is -52C and R32 heat pumps have 1.5-2.0 COP at -30C. At least this is how it is in Nordic heat pump market.
@@richardjames4632 Oh no they are awesome. Espacially when using a groundwater heat pump since groundwater has a temperature of 10-14°C year round at least in Germany. So you can heat your house with a COP of 3-5 depending on the groundwater temperature and on how much you can cool it down. Also right now the industry is adapting the concept due to the high prices for natural gas. A 20 Megawatt heat pump (7 MW electrical power) is currently beeing build which will use the water of the rhine river as a heat exchange source. So the concept goes a long way with applications for BASF as well since they need a lot of Steam and Natural gas steam reformation got a lot more expensive lately. If we would be able to produce and store electrical power a bit more reliably (maybe with a bit more nuclear power) Germany could be fine.
Good video. I suspect why it's illegal to burn waste oil at home when in fact it's burned when commercially disposed of is that commercial disposal facilities are regulated for emissions (or at least are supposed to be). I'll bet a lot of people will be using these this year to heat their homes without permission because the economics is driving them to do it and they think it's worth the chance of getting caught as opposed to freezing.
Nice review, I am glad you did this and the calculations but one thing I think could be included in the calc is the amount of electricity that it used during that hour and the cost. Thanks for the great work and I appreciate you.
I have no idea why youtube recommended me this video but I am glad they did, great video. Something to maybe look at for the steel shed. Don't think id want to run it in the house
@@joshuadelisle haha yeah, I wish the Algorithm would work like that on my videos haha, kidding. Glad im here to watched the 2nd part and that to was interesting. Seriously considering one of these for my steel shed that I might make into a workshop haha
Ordered one a week or so back for similar reasons, also have a very inefficient oil burner which I hope to use for fuel supply. John McK 47 is the Oracle on these things, incredible detail and very helpful 👌
Well done. thank you. if we fill our house tank up i'll definately connect the fuel line to my workshop heater as buying in bulk is more cost effective. cheers J
I just had my identical unit delivered about 2 weeks ago - it's been fantastic so far! I still need to pipe the exhaust outdoors, so I've only been doing short test runs (my shop is 26*62*12ft so my interior air volume... well... it's a lot!). But instead of having my natural gas furnaces going, I suspect this will be HUGELY cheaper to run, especially using my waste oil (my next experiment is to 50/50 it with diesel which is about $2/L here). For my exhaust, I'm going to use a trick we do/did in the generator biz - You drill a hole and shove a ~3" pipe through the wall. Then stick your much smaller exhaust through the large pipe. 3 machine screws 120* apart go through the walls of the larger pipe (drilled and tapped) at each end, so the tips of them just contact (not penetrate) your small pipe. After you're all done, pack the hole around the small pipe with Roxul (or another fire resistant insulation). It's super cheap, and works great.
That's awesome. Some people put a fuel switch over valve so they run on diesel first to get up to temp and have the waste oil copper line wrap around the exhaust to pre heat it and make it run better. Cheers J
Make sure you filter the waste oil thoroughly before dumping it in the generator. You might clog the fuel lines and the injectors. Happened to my last diesel generator that I used to produce electricity.
Never seen one before, in Australia there is so much wood and everyone is somewhat glad when it gets colder and frosty, I remember running around as a kids on frost in the morning in Canberra, horrible place.
I don't think that is a filter, but rather a muffler for the intake so it's not as loud. Probably not too important in your situation, but for those who use these for van camping where the main unit is outside under the vehicle, the intake to bring in cold air from inside the van for heating up before blowing it back inside can be a bit loud.
@@someoneelse7629 exactly a spider in Australia would make a home within a week! I have to keep my fire extinguisher hoses ends in a plastic bags to stop wasps building mud nests inside the hose!
Cooking oil has just 5% less energy per litre than Dino diesel If you pre-warm the oil it burns just like diesel. Waste cooking oil is full of chunks and other crap. But it’s easy to clean. Fill a container (barrel or water boiler) 1/3 with water and top up with oil. Boil the water and that oil is quickly cleaned by the steam rising through.
The cost of heating this year is sky high. My neighbour usually uses coal to power their boiler, last year it was £400 per ton, this year it is over £800 per ton. We are out in the countryside, so no natural gas. I use LPG for my central heating, the price of which is probably about 20% dearer this year than last year, which is not too bad when you consider just how much other fuels have increased. My workshop is in a big barn, so not really practical to heat it in the winter, but if I had a smaller space I would certainly consider one of these type of heaters, not too bad at all for the price.
I've had one of these for a couple of years now and run it on heating oil at about 80p ltr. Mine has four small vents on the front with ample vent pipe to cut and I have pointed the air flow in different directions with one pipe bent round and pointed on the hot exhaust underneath. I have also mounted my unit slightly higher and extended the exhaust giving me more hot pipe inside with the air blowing over it. The only negative is it's noisy on full chat. Good video.
..for noise mount outside in an enclosure and pipe the hot air through the wall, much less noise and no danger from exhaust leakage. Power goes through the wall as well as the controller inside the workshop. Needs to be turned on a few times every month even in summer. The fuel pump is the weak point so buy spares, you’ll need them
This is the first time I have seen one of your videos. Very good, very informative. I think we'll all be doing this soon if prices keep going up and up.
!!PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!!
I've done a follow up video as I understand now that it's impossible to be 8kw as diesel doesn't contain that much energy in the 350ml that I tested. So I've conduct a new experiment to calculate the actual heat output. I've also be testing how much electricity these consume at different Hz and also use the exhaust to boil water. Please let me know if there is anything else you would like to see tested in the future videos.
Watch the follow up here: ruclips.net/video/4tiSEGO6pYI/видео.html
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Thank you
Cheers J
You'll probably find it's more like 4 to 5kW - some of them are even smaller. The actual 2kW ones, sold as such, have a lower rate pump.
I don't think any of the cheap ones are a genuine 8kW, that's all bullchit.
Please do the followup 😉
@@TheManFrayBentos yes this is what I'm now discovering... Cheers J
YOU SHOULD PUT THIS IN THE DESC RIPTION AT THE TOP
@@DICEGEORGE good idea. Thank you. Cheers J
Free....AND Illegal?.....Those are two of my favourite things!, you have my attention good sir.
LoL thank you. Cheers J
i had the same exact thought :D
Anything they don't want you to have is probably awesome!
It's amazing how many things I never wanted, but still have, just because people in power don't approve of it.
Josh thanks for this video, I was quite amused that you were new to the world of diesel heaters but very interesting that you can use alternative fuels. Im new to your channel and having flicked through your content you have a new fan! Very talented and very well presented. Thanks again Mike
It's illegal because you can burn wasted sunflower oil you get for free from restaurants and fast foods. Also new cooking oil,a lot cheaper in many conturies then the diesel fuel,wich is illegal because you don't pay the fossil fuel tax. In Romania they raised the price of the cooking oil,because the people were running the diesel cars on it😄 They were refueling in the supermarket's parking😆
I fitted these on boats and lorries for years, I'm a boat builder now so still deal with them and if set up correctly they last forever👍
First thing mate you need to swap that exhaust around so its not all exiting facing directly down as you generate extra heat in the underplate and if left on constantly for days the burner will be running maybe 5deg over what it should and using more fuel and the bend you cant have it so water and unburnt diesel stores in it or it will have start-up issues. Route the exhaust slightly downwards all the way from the unit so have it come out and down slightly then where it goes outside put your 90 bend sideways and facing downwards then have the exhaust aimed out at a slight dangle downwards so no water or unburnt fuel can store up anywhere on the pipe.
Secondly you should fit the heat hose to the front as it brings the heat away from the burner nozzle and in turn saves fuel as its then burning at a perfect 163-167deg and 14:1 on the fuel.
The best modification you can make for performance is to fit rigid type fuel lines like you get on the boats. They do cheap copy kits that the fuel line is nearly rigid and fits into rubber fuel hose and is clamped together. These ensure the fueling is absolutely accurate as there is no flex or expanding action happening when the pump is on its press stroke, the burner itself will be quieter and the fuel pump will last a lot longer with rigid type fuel hose🙏
What never to do > fit filters over the intake. Put too many bends in the exhaust or burner intake. Extend the wiring without doing the maths relating to wire resistance and if possible always use it on a 12v or 24v DC as mains power can sometimes have power cuts or large spikes that flip breakers... if that happens your heater is toast as it shuts down hard with no shut down sequence, this burns the internal pcb and internal wiring. The genuine ones can take about 5-6 hard shut downs before you need to replace certain parts of the electrics. Also do some homework at what height and angle the pump likes to be at as these all in ones are known for bad fuel lines and pumps facing the wrong direction. To quieten the pump down you can get the pink rubber cover thing for it and mount it so it's not touching anything. Never buy the garbage large thin tanks they all leak and the connector is a nightmare to snug up properly. If using a 5 gallon drum be sure to fit the blue lid on your current tank to it as it needs to breathe.
Good. I saw an off-grid video capture some exhaust heat. He did it by having the exhaust run diagonally down through an oil drum filled with oil, before exiting through the wall. So he created a long lasting oil radiator for nighttime when the heater is switched off the oil drum still retains heat through the night, also he had are reflector on the wall behind the drum to push heat out into the room. You must have the exhaust going downwards always as it cools because liquid could condense and clog if you run an exhaust uphill. A good downhill run and keep the pipe clean.
@@user-pf5xq3lq8i yeah mate the exhaust angle and pump angle affect the proper ones never mind these cheap copies. People dont realise how well these can run and how efficient they can be untill the really dial them in. Its the controllers ability to adapt to its targets like a car ECU that allows even badly fitted ones to run decent enough for a while but the difference in fuel savings and reliability (especially start-ups) from a well plumbed in one from one that's just been kicked into the corner and fuel thrown in it... is night and day. Honestly the 5kw versions that are sold as the 8kw cheapo model you can get the burner running at like 160deg even down low around the 2Hz mark (5kw usually go to 5.5Hz on the pump) with basic fuel line upgrade to rigid and some tweaking in the hidden menu to get the AFR perfect.
Straight out of the box if you have a well made one youl be lucky if the burner is at 125deg at lower settings like 2.5Hz so dialling these things in can save you ridiculous amounts of fuel costs. The upper boundary of what any given 5kw unit will do is when the burner can run around 160-167deg as low as 2.6Hz on the pump with an ambient between 20 and 30deg.. and not need plugs every year because you leaned it out too far. That's the absolute sweet spot for any machine.
@@s1dew1nd3r4 see the Doblo van being smaller you don't need the 5kw (sold as a 8kw cheapo version) For instance a large Scania V8 T-cab only has a genuine 2kw and it can turn the cab into an oven if you leave them flat out on highest setting for more than about 15-20mins down to even -15deg outside temp. Truly the truck ones are all overkill they will even dry your eyes and throat out if you leave them on full power for anymore than a half hour. Based on that the 5kw is overkill for your application plus if you decided on the 5kw to run on low settings you'd still need to run it flat out every now and again to clear it through and on the shut down sequence when the fan goes flat out and it activates the heater plug for the final few pumps its going to near blow your windows out as the 5kw turn into a leaf blower on shutdown sequence. < These are my reasons for why you should go 2kw.
Whatever you choose the wiring up side I would tap into and wire from a constant 12v circuit so it never hard shuts down by accident (and melts the guts out) if for instance you had it wired to ignition circuits when you turned the key off you would hard shutdown the unit. Wire it direct to a constant 12v but also add a switch so you can cut the power to the unit so it isn't draining your battery with the LCD controller unit being live all the time. See the switch/ circuit breaker you put in get a decent one and wire the maintenance charger wires on the connectors that are on the wire coming from your constant 12v circuit to your master switch/breaker. This ensures the maintenance charger isn't on the wrong circuit and supplying a charge to the unit itself when the switch is off. You need the maintenance charger to be charging on the live battery side of the circuit and not after the switch. You'd be suprised how many people make that mistake and wonder why their C-Tek or Optimate goes ape on them. The fueling I would get a proper sender unit or make as close to the genuine one as you can or simply just use the 5ltr one you get in the 5kw all in one units or a Jerry can with a diaphragm in the cap or a breather. The noise in cars/vans/trucks/boats can be annoying AF with the pump ticking if you have either hard mounted the pump or it's touching anything. If you are going for an all in one then your going to be stripping it to fit it so on the fitment I'd get the pink rubber pump thing that everyone buys to quieten them down and I'd mount that with rubber bungs and make sure to keep the fuel lines near the pump away from the body of the vehicle as they too will transfer the ticking noise. See the exhaust you need to pay attention to which silencer you buy as there is generally 2 types of cheapo ones, one is good one is rubbish, the good ones have welds around them not just folded and tacked, make sure on fitment of silencer the drain hole faces downward as this is another common mistake. Heat wise as long as the exhaust isn't too close to anything fluffy fabric or anywhere junk gathers up and you're good to go. Aim the pipe back into the direction of airflow to prevent blowback when you are driving, you don't want it blowing the burner out via the exhaust. The hottest part of the entire unit will be the first bend you put on the exhaust underneath it. Personally if I wasn't running it all the time I'd just do it off the 5ltr tank for the all in one or an outboard motor Jerry can you know the ones that already have the fuel line feed and a breather on the cap. They work amazing for these heaters I put them in a lot of the fitments I do on boats.
@@s1dew1nd3r4 if you need proper detailed fitment ideas mate it's no problem. The comment I left above is just my first thoughts on the matter but even when I talk about the maintenance charger I'm thinking you're using mains at a campsite or a genny to charge the battery while the van is in situ. If you're not needing it to be a campervan and not running the heater for 24hr+ with the engine off then you're fine as the 2kw barely use any battery power after the initial start up. If you are keeping the single battery setup in the Doblo then you need it to be able to start the car at all times, the heater controller itself is capable of doing a decent job of that so you would go into the hidden menu and set the "low voltage shutdown" to 11.9v so the unit itself shuts down when it reaches 11.6v not the 10.5v or whatever the unit comes set at. You won't get your engine going if it drains the battery to 10.5v With car batteries they only work well as a 'starter motor' battery above 11.6v anything below this they lose their Cranking ability. Hope this helps further.
A big thanks to all that posted here. I got a lot of useful information. You know that's pretty rare now days.
I'm in the States & use a diesel heater to heat my workshop. I found that it runs on diesel, kerosene, and Type A Jet fuel but I haven't tried biofuel yet. Kerosene is expensive here and diesel is $4.89 a gallon so I go to a nearby small airfield and buy 10 gallons of Type A Jet fuel for only $3.80 a gallon. The only hitch is that the nozzle of an aircraft self-serve pump won't fit into a standard fuel jug opening so I had to buy two 5 gallon wide-mouth fuel jugs which have a large enough opening. A company named U-Jug makes them. In short, burning Type A in these heaters is a lot less expensive than using diesel fuel or kerosene. I haven't bothered to measure it but I think I get a longer burn on a gallon of Type A than I do on diesel fuel.
Thank you. That's great information. Kerosene was much cheaper here if you buy in bulk. 1000ltr used to be £400 not long ago but it shot up to £1200. Cheers J
Spend hundreds of dollars to save a few dollars. 😂
@@kenttegneskog Pffft, what a silly & uninformed supposition. I bought my cheap Chinese diesel heater for only $125 (USD). I previously heated my shop with a propane heater & electric heat. The diesel heater was not only much less costly to purchase but is much cheaper & efficient to operate. My fuel/heating cost for a winter season is about $40. A wood stove might be less costly but requires a lot of time & labor to process wood, maintain it, and dedicate space to properly store the wood. Which method do you use & what did it cost?
@@kst357 i meant if u only spending 40 pity dollar on the winter, but probably spending same in gas to get to the airfield and back, AND it’s illegal. Just to cut the cost from 55dollar to 40dollar
You said it self u only heat cost is 40dollar thats 11 gallon jet fuel
I am an old Volkswagen mechanic who in the '70s worked on many Eberspacher gasoline heaters factory installed into all Volkswagen Type 4 vehicles. They were in every Type 4 and the early 73 Thing vehicles. This design looks a great deal like what they made with a pulse fuel pump that was timed to the ventilating speed. Their units had both a spark and glow plug for intitial ignition. They ran on gasoline, not diesel. Your high power consumption on startup is from the glow plug.
I had a gasoline heater in my 1967 VW micro bus.(van) smelled like hell.
In America, we had US made Southwind heaters, which I also installed in new VW vans in 1969. They also were a little more dangerous due to gasoline leakage fires@@c50ge
This is the first of your videos I’ve ever seen, and I stumbled across it completely randomly (the previous video I watched before this popped up, was about the Alaskan oil pipeline. Lol)
Your level of interest in the product, your explanations, the information you provide, you pulling it apart to see what’s inside it, etc. has immediately earned you a sub. 👍🏻
Ditto!
Thank you so much. Hopefully lots more to come. Cheers J
Ditto! Love the creativity and, "...insert it into the female receiving end, right." quip😂
Same.
Same here.
I lived in Alaska few years ago these little “Japanese stoves” we called them, were used everywhere and in everything cabins, boats, work shops, man caves… toyo stoves… even houses. great channel!
Can confirm, Toyo stoves are fantastic.
about the earky to mid 80s kerosene heaters from japan toyo was 1 brand were popular to heat or supplement heat
but k1 kerosene was not too expensive. but today i have only seen buying by gallon or 5 gallon cans at rediculious prices. bear in mindim not in the cold part og the states dont know if stations sell by gallon to your own containers
anymore my place stop selling before i moved in 95
18:20. 66. Followed by 33. Cool ...... hoodwankurrrr
@@jar407 Kerosene price today in Britain is £0.82 per litre. That works out to be £3.73 per Imperial gallon.
You can do your own maths for the US since you use smaller gallons and dollars...! 😃
Yes I live in Japan and I thought it looked like this. Except they don't exhaust outside, so you need to open a window from time to time.
In very cold areas where heat pumps struggle, they're used everywhere. In Tokyo a bit less as it's not that cold. But we still have trucks going around selling kerosene with a little music like an ice cream truck lol.
I know the exhaust goes outside but I think it would be extremely wise to have a carbon monoxide alarm anywhere you’re using one of these, in case of exhaust leaks
@@zeusdagmire6185 a radon detector?? they arent actually a thing. to detect radon requires the placing of 2 alpha particle sensitive plastic discs in a building for 3 months which then has to be sent away to be analysed.
well that was an interesting dive into snakeoil devices. talk about junk. they are geiger counters masquerading as 'radon detectors' if its detecting alpha particles its detecting all ionising radiation. thats why tests kits arent a geiger counter. not to mention that they dont take other sources of radiation into account.
@@joylessdave what are you saying ? a carbon monoxide alarm wont work if it detects the exhaust from the heater ? that you need a radon detector ? naaaaa
It’s not if, it’s when
@@joylessdave who said anything about radon detectors?
I know he is a real maintenance guy because he immediately makes a special tool.
Fitted one to my house !
There was an 8" extractor fan in the kitchen I could temporarily remove to fit two 4" pipes through to the inside of the house, the heater itself is mounted on the outside which is under cover from a canopy we have at the back. Have it on setting number 4 but sometimes as low as 2 with the fan speed increased.
Powered using a 12v car battery topped up regularly with a small 3 stage charger. It will run on battery for around 7-10 hours but it does use a fair few amps when the glow plug is lit on startup, after that it doesn't pull much at all...
Downstairs gets toasty in no time but takes about an hour or so before you can feel the heat upstairs. Came with 10ltr tank and having to use normal diesel but I do get about a week out of it for an average of 5-6 hours a night....
Usually pay £15-£18 to refill every week depending how much is left in the tank.
I will do a video if anyone interested....
👍 fight back against big government, big oil and big tax man. Try running on heating oil + a little bit of veg or motor oil (10% mix roughly) should be way cheaper as you can get heating oil for about 90ppl. This is how I know some folks run old diesel motors mix the oil to lubricate the kero but maybe the machines don’t even need the lubricant? Idk how they work
@@ElliHarper An oil boiler basically works the same way, but bigger. Normally they have electrodes with an arc as ignition, but pump wise I doubt there is any difference, so you would think kerosene should be fine. Need a guinea pig 😅
Im in on the vid mate ..
I would be interested in the video. Thanks.
@@ElliHarper wrong the pump is a spring /electromagnet type cannot remember the name . i use one for heating and if using kerosine i add about 50ml of 2stroke oil per tank and that stops pump seizing up. p
Couple of suggestions from cold wintery Finland: Calculate the price comparison calculations via the thermal energy of diesel also. 350ml an hour is not 8kW - even at 100% effienciency. More like half of it. Also you have losses (exhaust, which you could utilize. Also consider taking air to burn from outside as now you are drawing cold air into the room for the unit to burn (this depends on your needs to ventilate but especially true if you have a ventilation system with heat re-capturing (heat exchanger between the hot-out and cold-in, like we have in the cold countries). Last thing is to insulate that gap under the sheet metal with some fire proof rock/glass wool. Now you have an unisulated spot there.... Or you could run the exhaust inside a long vent tube in and have your fresh air already preheated.
Correct, when you do the math it's a little over 5 and the 5 kw they sell is more like 3.5
@JoshuaDeLisle. reporting for spam
Diesel is easy to work out - it contains 10kWh per litre
If he used 350ml in one hour - the machine was producing, *in total*, 3.5kWatts
Of which easily half was going out through the exhaust.
Just goes to show you don't need much heat energy to warm up a given space - if it's reasonably well-insulated and not draughty.
A modest paraffin (kerosene) heater would do instead. No noise. No electrics needed and 100% heat output from similarly energy-dense fuel. Kerosene presently priced at about half the quoted price of red diesel.
Small greenhouse heaters can be had for about £30 each
Depending on room size (do check this) but in the UK, if the thing is rated at 5kW or less (500ml consumption per hour) you don't need a flue but get a carbon monoxide alarm anyway. Same applies to any fuel, natural gas, butane or propane.
And the joy of the greenhouse heater is instant set-up and portability
@@peterbetts8740 Are paraffin heaters safe to use in a resident setting? Those used to be popular in the old days before modern central heating didn't they. You hear horror stories about people dying from carbon monoxide poisoning from falling asleep with one of those running in the same room either due to them being defective or no proper ventilation for the fumes..like you said though it comes down to having proper ventilation and a good carbon monoxide alarm detector. I expect modern paraffin heaters with technology built in are a lot safer than the old ones of the 1950's-1970's era.
I used to work for a company which designed and manufactured carbon monoxide detection, measurement and alarm devices for industrial use but I didn't have much involvement in that side of their business. We used to sell a lot of them to breweries around the world I remember though!
@@peterbetts8740 Agreed. Using mains gas in the UK is nearly 3 times cheaper per Kw/h than using red diesel. Also remember, it doesn't take much energy to heat up air. The problem is, the walls, the floor and all the furniture and items are cold and will slowly absorb heat energy, so as soon as you turn off the heater, the temperature will drop rapidly. The question is, how long does it take to heat up the room and all the items in it. I'm sure it's good for workshops, but not really practical for domestic homes.
Great vid. Here's a tip;
If you made a longer exhaust pipe and had most of this pipe on the inside of your workshop before exiting, you'd get even more heat inside.
I used a black steel pipe for the exhaust and installed a fireplace fan on top to pull even more heat from the exhaust. I can heat my sun room in the winter in subzero temperatures at the lowest setting. a gallon of diesel lasts about 2 days.
I’ve seen people making stainless steel pipe coils for hot tub heating. One of those used inline with the exhaust would work to use that residual heat.
@@kevb8983 you;d want to make sure they were all sealed up tight, otherwise you'd be leaking CO2 and CO into the shop.
I'm wondering if they don't make heat exchangers for the exhaust
To heat the intake air with tye exhaust
@@neok1996 you could, but really it would foule up poretty quickly and need to be cleaned regularly.
The air intake hose is there to go outside of the building so that the air that you burn is not the heated air from inside causing a draft of cold air to come into the building to replace it. That burner uses a lot of air so in a small shop like yours, the cold air coming in will be quite noticeable. The heater I had came with a wall vent that the exhaust went out of the building though a metal tube that was surrounded by another tube. The exhaust went out the center tube and the air for the burner came into the building through outer tube preheating the combustion air and keeping the wall from getting heated by the exhaust.
I absolutely love my diesel heater. We spent a lot of time in the woods camping and it's opened up the winter season so we could be really comfortable without having to worry about propane or anything else
I have one in my workshop (converted garage) it's away from the house so solar powered, using recycle laptop batteries. After 20 minutes it's very toasty, I picked the bare bones one and got it for under £50. They are a great bit of kit. Great video, keep them comming.
Thank you Matt. Cheers J
That’s awesome how do you get those to work for a solar system ?
Is your workshop off grid? - I’m very interested in that, and your recycled laptop batteries (what voltage are you using to power the control unit of the diesel heater?)
Hi all. Just too answer some questions. Yep totally off grid, 2 * 230w panels on roof feeding into an epever 30A controller that charges 560 (18650) reclaimed laptop batteries in a 7 series 80 parallel config. So aprox 28V 160A this feeds lights, radio and chargers with d.c and a 240v inverter when required. The heater runs on a 24V to 12V 30A adapter with a max draw off 10A for say 10 minutes for glow plugs, that drops to about 2A when running.
@@starbase69 nice one Matt, sounds like a pretty good set up and I guess you are fortunate to have a source of used laptop batteries for you home made “power wall” Did you design and build the system yourself? If so I hope you are using that skill in your day job too! Thanks for sharing mate! 👍
A cheap option for a mains 12V PSU is an old X-Box psu "brick".
They output a solid 12V at a power of 135W (higher powers available for the older ones).
You just need to remove the end connector & combine the individual wires into +ve and -ve groups and connect the 2 switch wires together so it's always on.
Or even an ATX PSU, you can get old used ones for like 5€, and they do hundreds of watts at 12V
To turn it on outside of a computer you just have to short the green pin to any black (ground) pins.
@@LRTOTAL Exactly. ATX PSU is def the best option.
Instructions unclear. House is on fire. Very warm.
Any link to what would be needed to run this from a UK outlet ??
@@LRTOTAL what about a ham radio power supply, they convert ac to dc 13.8v, many like the Jetstream brand sold by R and L Electronics you can adjust the voltage.
If the exhaust pipe is 300 C, you could easily run it through a heat exchanger a recover some heat for hot water or pre heating water for a steam engine - or just have another air to air heater going so you're using the exhaust heat, put a small pc fan on it to get flow.
Yep, exactly what i was thinking. 12v 120 or 140mm computer fan mounted underneath blowing air onto the exhaust both adds even more heat into the room and will drop exhaust temps i'm betting a fair bit to make that safer as well
My thoughts EXACTLY!
I used to put a cover down the front of the radiator, in real,cold winters, it worked a treat for less cooling of the hot water circulation. Got de-mist faster too. But must be removed in warmer times
Lol I just forwarded this vid and said basically the same when I sent it on to my siblings!
Except I had it a lil more as a 'closed' system with a cooler coil ran out into the cold and coming back to a coil on the exhaust before steaming again
Awesome. Heartbreaking about people freezing over Christmas in UK.
I hope that y'all are able to keep warm this winter.
I expect you should import and save these heaters while you can before they "become unavailable" in your country.
The way things are going these heaters will probably become illegal and force many people to submit to the large companies who want to monopolize the energy market. I'm using free waste vegetable oil from my local fish and chip shop. Coming soon. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I'm amazed that they give you the waste oil free of charge! I pay sixty cents a gallon for waste oil here in the U.S. and after filtering and treatment, I cut it with #2 heating oil to burn really clean. Anything to save on heat, it gets down to -20F where I am. Keep up the great work!
People freezing is heartbreaking any time anywhere.
@@genefogarty5395 thank you. In the UK the garages have to pay someone to take it away. Small independent garages will give me as much as I want. Probably not the corporate ones as they have a system to obey. Cheers J
.
I've been using the exact heater for over 4 years now and it has worked flawlessly. I do however use Clear diesel as I found that the diesel fuel with dye in it tends to Coke up the glow plug which will either require cleaning or replacement, which is no big deal. By the way yes it does require a special socket to remove the glow plug which is also readily available at very little cost. I have three of these particular heaters one of which I use in the house which is mounted on a small inexpensive Harbor Freight welding cart. The welding cart holds the battery, the heater and a solar charge controller connected to a small solar panel which makes this a totally self-contained unit. One of the other units I have I use for a small hunting cabin, and the third I use to heat my garage. I highly recommend these to everyone I speak with and they are quite popular as well with my friends that have ice fishing shanties. I don't use mine 24 hours a day or when sleeping but I do use it all day long and with a full tank of fuel it will easily Heat my 700 square foot cabin using only about one tank every 2 days when set on some of the lower settings, " on two or three ". they're absolutely amazing and I highly recommend them to anyone! Just be sure to properly install the exhaust, that's the most critical item, plus I found the hose clamps they come with to be of very poor quality and I highly recommend that you replace the exhaust pipe one for a high quality all stainless heavy duty Marine type hose clamp and you'll have no issues with exhaust smell or exhaust leakage.
Red diesel is road diesel with a dye added. They are absolutely identical products in every way.
One of the most incredible videos I’ve ever seen. You knock this puppy out of the park. I purchased one of these and was looking to gain more information. You definitely hit most everything needed. Excellent job my friend.
Thank you so much. cheers J
As a mechanic and a tool buff myself, I love how you have all those specialized tools for all these small fabrication jobs. Yeah those heaters are great.
yeah.. they seem to work great and have loads of untapped heat being wasted through the short exhaust pipe there just going straight outside...
@@mgntstr i see a second heat exchanger for the water line or a heat recovery system to preheat the intake air. #damnthatsefficient
Few points to add.
1. Use a car battery and a 5A plus charger.
2.Check the exhaust connection for dangerous CO leakage and CO monitor is a must.
3. Keep a longer section of the exhaust pipe inside can help efficiency and put the metal plate in less thermal stress
A correction to 1: do not charge a car battery inside. It emits hydrogen while charging. Use VRLA battery: AGM or GEL.
Use an old computer power supply. Easier to manage and doesn't produce dangerous gases.
1. Use a 240v to 12v inverter power supply instead of a car battery.
@Roads To Nowhere it does have enough amps, use an used server power supply from HP or dell, it produces 12.3-12.6 volts, 63-90 amps, search DIY power supply, you have to put a resistor on the pinout for it to turn on and solder your own power leads, if series connecting you must learn to properly float the ground with plastic washers/ bolts/ , they cost $20 each on a popular site you can buy it from. learn something new
#3 is mission critical for indoor, permanent heating...
I run a simple heater like this all winter on my homestead in the middle of nowhere. They're golden. Easy to tune up when needed and they produce such good dry heat. Important when you live in a van. 🤠
What exact model have you been using please ? Any link ? Thank you
15:35 If the exhaust is running (or at least peaking) at 240 C, that's a fair amount of heat going out the window. Maybe a secondary heat exchanger, which could be as simple as a cast iron radiator or just a long metal pipe, would reclaim that heat and increase the heat output while cutting fuel costs.
My thoughts exactly,
I think you'd have to be careful if extending the exhaust to consider back pressure increase.
A simple power supply for these is a standard car battery coupled to a battery charger/optimiser, keeps the battery charged while in use and tops it up when not in use , simple reliable and effective , Good video
Plus, like Big duphus said above, these things don't like a "hard shutdown" which would happen if the AC power suddenly went out and the thing couldn't do it's cooldown cycle first. So your battery and charger idea is much better than just a 12V power supply.
Yes, you are right. I use a car battery and charger. Even if you are powering the heater from the mains, it is good to have a permanently connected car battery as a "safety buffer" in case the electricity goes out.
If you build a setup that will cool the exhaust gas to below 100C, you'll get another boost in efficiency, since you're burning hydrocarbons. Part of the exhaust will be steam. If you make that condense out, you get all the energy from turning water into steam back. Watch out: the other exhaust main component is CO2, which forms a minor acid with water. You'll need stainless steel or ceramic piping for the exhaust, otherwise it will corrode really quickly.
Thanks! I was absolutely amazed with this tutorial!!. I myself being a welder/fabrication teacher. I am currently teaching my children how important or is to have imagination to be a welder.. I found your tutorial amazing and I could not help but support a fellow welder/fabricator.. I wish you nothing but success, wealth and happiness in the future, you are an inspiration to many who are able to see what your doing and the fact that you are potentially helping those who do not have the money to heat their homes in the winter. God Bless you!
Thank you so much Bobby for your support. Your very kind and it's much appreciated. I have lots more to bring soon. Including a welder review that is TIG, MIG, Stick, Flux core and plasma In one machine, so we'll see if it's any good and I'll do my best to demonstrate all the processes and my tips I've learned over the years. God you and your family also. All the very best. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle your very welcome I look forward to seeing more of your videos. I was very impressed with your ability to make things so easily and use your imagination and apply it to different configurations.. you are a very intelligent person who is capable of providing people with the right info to help the less fortunate.. thats something I find amazingly useful.. good luck on your future endeavors and I wish you all the best.. keep doing what you do best.. God bless
@@bobbydamig3231 your very Kind Bobby. I'll do my best to continue helping any way I can. God bless. Cheers J
The intake air filter is to keep bugs from entering and plugging a small hole within the burn chamber. It will not run if bugs get in there. Also a good idea to change the fuel line to the small, white hard line like Espar uses.
if you want to spend even less on heat there are a couple things you can do. 1 you can scavenge more heat from the exhaust before dumping it outside the wall. and 2 you can plumb the intake so it takes air from outside, because as it is since it's intaking air from inside and then exhausting it outside it must necessarily be sucking cold outside air into the workshop through what little gaps there are in the walls.
it's true but a workshop is so drafty typically the difference is....negligible unless your space is very air tight. Intake should be outside of course when possible.
cold air burns more efficiently because it has more oxygen.
the exhaust pipe is hot. Really hot. It can go lower down the wall before venting outside.
Also, slanting the pipe at an angle will help the ambient air capture more of its heat.
True. But make sure the exhaust fumes aren't sucked back up the air inlet
A coaxial pipe would do the job! The exhaust pre heats the intake to avoid running freezing air in the combustion chamber. And only one hole going outside.
I thought you could lengthen the exhaust pipe before it goes outside , that way you will use a lot of the 200 degree exhaust that is heating the pipe to warm the workshop.
i was thinking of the idea of an old car intercooler, send the exhaust through that with a fan blowing through, extract even more heat...
My uncle made a spiral of exhaust pipe above his woodstove. It is indeed a waste to just let al that hot air flow out
I do just this... A small fan blows across the hot exhaust.. remember to do a dozen minutes of as hot as you can go...!!2orksmbrilliant.
one my friend has the same heater and he connected exhaust pipe to an house type water radiator. it gets pretty hot as well from the exhaust giving like a lot of extra heat and even a place to dry hat and gloves. But it cant be too long and big, as then heater will throw error about exhaust not being able to leave.
@@jamiebanyard1792 What an excellent idea using an intercooler .
For the internal part of the exhaust pipe you may craft a custom heatsink with a 12V-PC-fan to convert even the excess exhaust heat to
additional energy. This may make the machine even more efficient. Or you may craft your own pipe and lay it through the room.
Does create some custom work but it will make it even cheaper over long distance and more efficient and environmentally friendly. AtL. a bit.
hmn, i wonder if it could be used on a fuel source such as hydrogen and also in the process of it being used, it creates it's own hydrogen effectively creating an nearly endless supply of hydrogen to power the entire house.
and provide free electricity for life.
there is another guy who does this, but his method is only while using solar power to create his hydrogen, he collects 3 months out of the year into his tanks and the rest is used through out the year, he's been off the grid for nearly 30 years on his hydrogen system and hasn't needed to pay a electric bill because he reuses that created hydrogen to power his house.
Dude, just stumbled upon you and you are awesome! I've been looking at these heaters for a couple of years now for my remote cabin and now I think I will pull the trigger. Way more efficient than the propane burners I run at the moment when my wood stove dies out at night. You have another subscriber here!
Thank you so much, do check out the latest video. cheers J
You might consider running an inlet air duct from outside. Cold air being pulled into the room from outside through small air gaps due to the negative pressure created by the heater pumping its exhaust to outside can really hurt your heating efficiency. Just make sure your air inlet is far away from any exhaust pipes. Even better, would be to setup a heat exchanger where the intake air is pre-warmed by the heater's exhaust.
An external air intake for the combustion mixture may improve combustion too as the colder air is denser.
also it consumes oxygen in the room , so...
@@e.p.4767 also it consume oxygen in the room👍How do you say carbon monoxide poisoning, CO?
@@tech29X If air is being pulled out of the room, fresh air is coming in. Intake does not produce any gases. Human respiration does not produce CO. There is no safety issue with not having an external inlet. If the room is so well sealed that you'd actually run out of air, you breathing would cause the same problem and the issue is with the design of the room, not the heater.
@@Teth47 Good thing if air is being pulled in from outside; "Carbon monoxide (CO), a low molecular weight gas, is a ubiquitous environmental product of organic combustion, which is also produced endogenously in the body, as the byproduct of heme metabolism."
Being a newly retired radio ham/code cutter/AWS wrangler/micro-ctrl--sbc fan/build anything nut, I have been looking at how to heat my shack/shed/w-shop without (expensive) electric heaters. So after viewing this excelent video I ordered a 8KW VEVOR Air Heater from the local AUS supplier (yes stoked i was able to buy one from an AUS supplier) I am super pleased with this beast. Awesome solution, works very well and cost 3 fifths of stuff all to run... Thanks Josh loved your work....
Thank you so much and well done 👍. Do check out the follow up video as run more tests and try a few modifications. Cheers J
Finally no nonsense channel very straight forward breath of fresh air
No gimmicks cheers
Great review. I have a similar unit that's been in service for 4 years now with no issue. It definitely takes a bit of experience to set them up properly but it's been a fantastic unit so far.
Thank you Ryan. Cheers J
@@joshuadelislewhere we bay it
where do you have yours installed?
@@sonus289 On my boat. I'm on the west coast of Canada so things get a wee bit chilly in the winter months.
Two things I would change to your exhaust port - open it back up and stuff the cavity full with non-combustible mineral batt insulation (Rockwool), then remount. Then install a drip cap over the top of the exhaust outlet to get the drip line away from the siding and opening and seal the gap with a thermal rated sealant. Very nice and clean install!
Some of these diesel heaters come with this green, flexible fuel line, which is fine from the tank to the pump, but the pump puts out such a small pressurized pulse that the green line expands and minimizes the quality of the analyzation in the commotion chamber. The smaller diameter, hard plastic tubing allows pressure to be maintained and cleaner combustion result.
Also the Mecanyl tubing is self sealing in case of a melt or burn through.
What smaller inner diameter and what hard plastic? any air pressure or car fuel pipe?
My thoughts on the "filter", its meant to be outside so you don't create a draft and suck cold air into the room like you would if the intake is inside. The plastic mesh is just to stop spiders from going in the air intake and clogging it up with webs.
i also belive its a sound muffler of sorts
That is exactly what it is intended for, the air intake for the heater is suppose to be outside of the vehicle (or building) and the unit itself should be inside.
If flow restriction from ice/frost is a concern with outside air over a small surface area just grab an air intake from a junkyard car, keep a spare filter on hand for a quick fix if it ices over.
The intake can also be inside for faster heating by recirculating hot air that is already inside the room instead of sucking cold fresh air from the outside. Every modern car has the recirculating option.
@@moeman2790
I believe the air intake everyone is commenting on is only for the combustion portion of the heater. The shop air circulates around the outside of the heat exchanger. The fan (shown in the video) blows the shop air over the heat exchanger and out the duct connection. The combustion section is a closed system and doesn't mix with the shop air if the intake is routed outside.
Truckers been using these for years for their cab heater when they sleep and it also had a block heater circulating your coolant to your engine. You could always run a couple radiators with fans across the house and put the radiator hoses through the wall so you could heat your living room Den and also your bedrooms separate with their doors closed. You have to check the different kinds available. Google up some truck shows and start visiting them see what is on the market these days. Every major city has one Salt Lake Anaheim Dallas. BTW the reason red diesel is red is they just put a dye in it to turn your fuel filters red and they can see it in the tank at a Port of Entry. If they see red dye then you get a big fine for tax evasion. Because that's Road tax. The red diesel does not get Road tax.
In Germany it's two different things. The red stuff is named Heizöl what translates heating oil and you are allowed to use it in tractors on a Farm. The stuff in trucks is named Diesel like in USA it seems. Technically it's the same stuff only in red. Heizöl is 1,23€ per Liter(for 100l ) Diesel 1,74€ per Liter (19.12.22) 1gallon=3,75l
@@Harrington2323 it's the same in the US also. We call regular road fuel #1 diesel and off road/farm use is called #2 diesel which is dyed red. The only difference is the red dye and that you're paying a "road tax" on the #1.
Diesel#2 is regular diesel, Diesel#1 is cold weather diesel. Red Diesel is called dyed diesel or off-road diesel at the pump.
6m x 3m x 2.5 tall. You are the only YT smith who works in a space smaller than the one I have for my hobby level tinkering. Serious respect for the ability, never mind the economic saving on heating.
Thank you so much. its a bit tight with the projects I have going on but it certainly has saved me money working in small spaces. cheers J
You shouldn't discard the inlet pipe and filter. You should use the inlet pipe to supply fresh outside air to the combustion chamber. That way you won't be drawing in cold air into your shop to replace the air being drawn directly into the heater and exhausted to the outside. The filter on the inlet keeps out bugs, hair, and other debris from clogging up the heater.
Stops a mouse from moving into the pipe.
I agree with this 100%
Direct vent > indirect vent.
It's not a filter on the combustion intake pipe, it's a silencer.
@@SteveDowty The combustion makes virtually no noise. It's not a silencer. The fan makes more noise.
This type of heater, minus the big orange enclosure, is pretty much standard equipment on long haul trucks in the US. They're an absolute godsend; it's about 8°C outside right now and I'm toasty in my jeans and tee shirt, without having to idle the main engine. The little heater burns less than a gallon during a 10 hour break while idling the prime mover is often more than a gallon an hour!
And campervans for several decades. Odd seeing someone who's never come across such a thing.
How many cups is that? Is your truck a horse power?
@@kennethkeen1234 That'll be a US 3.something litre gallon, as opposed to a proper British 4.54 litre gallon :-)
@@kennethkeen1234 the truck is 450 hp from a 12.7 liter engine. A US gallon is 16 US cups which might as well be cubic femtoparsecs for as well as they translate to normal units.
They originally were truck and boat heaters. Webasto and Eberspacher usually on UK trucks.
My first thought as you mentioned in your video was safety but noise too Joshua. So I would mount it externally on a wall and build a weather proof enclosure around it and pipe the heat in probably through a two ducts from one heat outlet.
If you want to add more energy in and less out (by the exhaust), one guy installed an aluminum tubing from a used electric baseboard . Dissipation of that heat was done inside before exhausting out. The longer the tube the lower the heat loss outside. David McLuckie made the calculation from exhaust (around 800 watts), so it is better to keep that heat in, but make sure connections are tight (aka CO risk...)
I was just thinking this. So much heat was being lost and if you can somehow harness the Heat from the exhaust, it would be great… Maybe hot water heater with a coil??
I have one similar in my van that i live in when working away from home. Its plumbed straight into my fuel tank, which obviously makes it a bit more expensive to run but when its sub zero outside and its toasty in the van its worth it.
As a side note, look up the water heaters you can add to these, absolutely brilliant
can you tell me more about the water heater? I cant find it online
I put my exhaust through a heat exchanger from an old boiler and heated hot water. Also, I directly fed the exhaust through a radiator. My thoughts were if you could use the waste heat from the exhaust, then it might make nearer 8kw. All I can say is it heated the workshop a lot more. Always think about condensation in the exhaust train!
Ha I commented asking if something like this would make sense to try. I absolutely would do what you described. Keep as much of that heat in your space as you can.
If you do it like that it ist very very important to have a CO-warning device in case of unnoticed leak. '
I'm preparing my heater for use in a large tent, and found in the instructions that the exhaust pipe can be a whole meter long! I'm getting one and will run most of it inside of the tent for heating, then stick as short as possible through to the outside.
@@allencrider Can't you make the exhaust pipe longer so you have more hot pipe inside your tent?
@@gwaponobby I'm going by the specs in the manual. I could always experiment with a longer pipt to see if the heater still worked correctly, but 1 meter long is what the manual says.
You should consider in-line wago connectors for your electrical connections. They’ve got a pretty wide range of acceptable gauges, they’re easy to use, and you can safely re-use them pretty much forever! I think they still send free samples too.
More specifically 221 or whatever their lever range of lever lock connectors are called.
why would you bother with free samples when they cost 40 pence each? just don't buy fake ones!
An old timer's tip for the jagged fuel line hole you deburred:
Cut a scrap or used length of fuel line to fit the perimeter of the hole. Lay it between two pieces of wood or metal & use a knife to split one side the full length of the fuel line.
Slip the split fuel line over the rough edge of the hole. If the line is cut to length accurately, it will stay in place without adhesive. If needed use some contact adhesive to affix the re-purposed fuel line.
Been using this technique for 50+ years without one failure. Works well in vibrating invironments, too. (Machinery, automotive, marine, etc)
Hope this helps someone.
From another old-timer - I've been using that tequnique for about 50 years also. But I can't remember where I got the idea. I think it may have been when I saw pipe insulation with a pre-cut slit so you could slip it over pipe, rather than wrapping miles of bandage round the pipes.
@@cfc1907 We were using this way before split pipe insulation. I can remember when the only readily available pipe insul was strips of fiberglass insulation; made by the only company that made stuff like that... Weather King... Freeze King... can kinda remember the logo... had lots of orange on their plastic bags.
They made those chinsy window insulation kits of whisper thin plastic sheeting & thin pĺastic strips w/ psa.
I think I learned the split hose trick from my uncle/Godfather. He had me working in his auto repair at 12.
He'd grown up in NJ. A 1st gen Italian-American, he started sweeping floors in a Ford dealership in Jersey City at 13. By age 15, he was a line mechanic for the brand new Model A's.
I was nuts about cars. Been building models of real cars from Hot Rod & Car Craft mags. I'd do basic engine wiring, custom radiator hoses, made tube headers from telephone signal wire & the ink tubed from Bic pens & 'sheet metaled the interiors of the race cars w/ card stock painted silver. He figured it was time I worked on the real thing... LOL
In the UK we use the outside grey insulation from domestic wiring. Cut down the side and remove the inner wires and it leaves a U profile soft plastic that grips like a grommet
@@mattydare You must have better wire than we do in the states. Everything here, except very expensive high temp wire w/ silicone insulation, (a dream to work with), uses PVC.
It's hard to cut, doesn't hold it's shape, nor have enough elasticity to use the way we're talking about. I hate the stuff; power cords on appliances & tools fight you while trying to coil them, & you haven't lived until you're making a solder connection & one of the stiff azz wires slips flinging hot solder & flux in your face. I'm thinking I may have to wear a full face shield like I use when riding my 9" side grinder. LOL
GeoD
@@georgedennison3338 Sorry mate, I'm not an electrician but AFAIK its PVC heat moulded onto copper wire. They use chalk dust to prevent the different layers of insulation sticking to each other so there is always 2 layers of insulation between you and the angry pixies at 240v.
A few suggestions from an aged observer of alternative fuels. Mr Diesels engine was originally designed to run on Peanut oil, that particular point is not entirely relevant but keep it in mind, diesels do not need diesel to run on, regular diesel is just usually cheaper and easier that the legal alternatives. In the past there are plenty of people who have run engines/ cars on waste cooking oil, vegetable oil, waste oil. The best practice for running these engines and prolonging their life was to start and stop them on regular diesel, warm them to working temperature then switch to the alternative fuel. The heat generated from the diesel warm up was used to pre heat the alternative fuel and ensure that it could flow freely in the pipes. The shut down process switched back to regular diesel in order to flush the alternative fuel from the feed pipes and ensure clog free starting. This was mainly to ensure that certain waste cooking oils etc. were at sufficient temperature that they could flow freely and not clog pipes.
This would all depend on which alternative fuel you were to elect to use.
I have seen plenty of people use these heaters (in the basic unit configuration) to heat mobile homes, live in vans etc. many have had success, a few have had problems and some have changed to alternatives. It would appear to be that you pays you money and takes your chances, some people have come to the conclusion that the basic heater should be changed every year because it is cheap Chinese stuff, others go till it breaks then replace.
Very good information. Thank you. Cheers J
True, I use a mixture of kerosene (petroleum) and diesel. At first pure kerosene, which was much cheaper than diesel, but not anymore. Kerosene burns more cleaner and seems to deliver more heat, it also preempts forming curds in diesel when left in cold storage.
Excellent Vevor heater demo video. Heartily recommend buying separate heater for safety reasons, not the All-in-one, because you can mount the heater sideways (glow plug up) and exhaust directly thru the wall. This eliminates the theoretical risk of CO (Carbon Monoxide) leak from the flex exhaust line, which in these type of kits is not necessarily the best, nor is the clamp fit perfect. Of course, CO can still leak around the orange glow plug silicone cover, but one less thing to worry about.
Would love to see you engineer/demo one of the rare versions of this heater that heats both air AND water.
Great for RV (or even house) water heater preheat. There are only a couple of them out there, Webasto clones or modified air heater exchangers.
I purchased this unit in 2024 and it works good. As for commissioning, I just connected the intake/exhaust, 12V, added fuel, and then powered on and went full blast for 48 hours. No problems, and it’s very efficient.
Just an important safety note. As it is set up right now, the exhaust is leaking carbon monoxide into your workshop. The metal heater outlet, hose clamped to the metal exhaust, is not creating a good seal. If your heater is not properly tuned (most of these are not, out of the box - ideally, they should be custom-tuned for your specific intake/exhaust setup and elevation) you will probably soon notice soot stains coming out of the gap as evidence of the leak.
While the leak probably isn't huge, and these heaters normally don't produce huge amounts of CO, this can still kill you. These heaters can also produce huge amounts of CO if anything goes slightly wrong, for instance a partially blocked intake or exhaust, bad fuel, sooting up from age, the tune being wrong for any one of the heater's power settings, etc.
The air intake should also be outside, facing the same direction as the exhaust, to minimize the effect of the wind on burn efficiency, which can cause sooting, leading to CO, etc. etc. I recommend sealing the exhaust connection with the highest temp automotive silicone you can find; I use Permatex 81878 and it has held up well, though I reseal it every couple years as the exhaust temps are right at the limit of what it can handle, and silicone will degrade with heat over time regardless.
Yeah man they can smoke up when it gets clogged up if you dont fire them up to run every now and then. :)
Maybe diesel can produce CO if burned but in an old diesel car, you are safe from CO poisonings! Funny enough modern diesel cars produce CO AND very small and dangerous particles that really can cause you serious health problems and even kill you! But people think it's clean when it's not any black smoke witch in fact was much less dangerous to inhale...
I see so many people leaving the air intake for the burn chamber inside which will slowly pull heat out of your building or whatever you are heating. Good to finally see someone comment the correct way
Its good practice to have a Carbon Monoxide detector in any room in which things are burned. I run a wood fired Sauna. You would be surprised by how often that thing goes off...
If you put the combustion intake inside you will never get carbon monoxide poisoning! As it may be leaking 5% but 95 % of the intake is getting pushed outside
Got one of these. The tank above the burner is bloody dangerous in my opinion. I had a diesel leak from the hose going from the tank, there was diesel everywhere and a fog of white diesel smoke coming through the air ducts because the leaked diesel had been pulled in to the air inlet. There was also a lot of diesel around the exhaust, dripping on to it and smoking something fierce. I've since put the tank and the pump outside the casing, as well as added a filter. It's now much safer, and I can fill up the tank while the heater is running without worrying about spilling. It manages around 5KW I'd say, and it burns clean and is relatively quiet. With the modifications, I am now quite happy with it.
Great video, and I am sorry your fuel costs have skyrocketed! That is absolutely shameful in 2022, in a modern western country that people may be freezing. Our politicians that caused all this won't be freezing at all.
Those politicians should all be forced to go without heat or electricity all winter see how they like it. Accountability and term limits need to be set stat
farrtttttt
Why politicians are not worth the space they take up, but folks still waste their time, liberty and ultimately, life voting for these parasites
enabled by the sheep that believe the lies.
politicians one and all up against the f*cking wall
I saw this video when it came out and bought the same one here immediately in the USA for $109 (that includes tax and delivery). I've used it only twice but it's OUTSTANDING! Something this cheap has no right to be so effective! Anyway, looking forward to mounting it in a light camp trailer and heading out this winter. Great video!
Thank you so much. Well done. I've got more to share soon. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle THANK YOU! This inspired me to experiment. For just ~$100 USD it's been amazing! Cheap, light, and effective. Can't wait to put on my camper build. Thanks again!
I think the intake tube filter/muffler is supposed to balance the intake exhaust to help with an efficient burn. I know in boat installs they say to match the length of intake to the exhaust.
I'm exactly that a boat builder and I fitted these for years too. You are correct but the full story is that in boat applications the runs are sometimes huge so you need rigid type fuel lines so there's no expansion in them and you need to know how to programme the hidden settings for fan voltage and AFR so you can then dial the unit in so the burner temp is perfect 167deg with 20deg ambient intake and 14:1 AFR and if its not 20deg at the time you need to do your maths and suit it to your ambient temp to get it running perfect. Typically on boats the fueling needs messed about with the most and it's always adding to the pump frequency so they burn more fuel in general. In a garage or whatever if I had a larger one (the cheap copy 8kw are really a 5kw) you can get away with leaning them out a bit to save fuel as long as you know its likely to go through plugs a wee bit quicker.
its for noise reduction
Thought this was a new product but as soon as you took the cover off I realised it’s the same
Chinese diesel heater people have been using in their camper vans for years… just without the outer casing, and using a separate tank.
They are pretty decent.
I used one in my shop north of Fairbanks, Alaska. Worked like a champ. Kept the shop warm even at -40f.
Fun fact: at -40 you don't have to say F because it's also -40C. It's the only temperature that's the same on both systems :)
Sorry but that was tongue in cheek, I've actually met 3 people who've been at temps. that low, one in BC and 2 in Antarctica.
I want to thank you for your review. We bought 2 last year and are planning on using them in our Bus Conversion. It's and old School bus, and those underseat heaters just didn't work properly. Plus we will be having a marine wood burner for a back up. I was most interested in your flow rate of fuel and am completely blown away. These will not cost us nearly as much as we previously thought to run. We will be putting in external tank feeds, as where we want to put the unit in a small space, and it would make it impractical to fill in a traditional way. Fortunately I have experience working with external pumps filling closed off tanks without mucking it up. Again thank you very much for busting your cherry on this review.
Thank you so much. I put in more information on the latest video. All the very best. Cheers J
what i am most interested in w/ those heaters is if you can scavange the exhaust heat, i thought about running the exhaust trough a longer section of pipe that coils inside a drum filled w/ water, or having the exhaust feed into a large heat exchanger like a normal radiator you would normally have in a house when you have hot water heating
would love to see those ideas tested as i sadly lack the tools or space to do such experiments
I would probably use it as a PRE- heater...it makes a huge difference to cost effectivness.
That's exactly what I have in mind. Video coming up soon. Cheers J
Until you make too much back pressure for the exhaust and you get tired from some strnage reason and oops you killed yourself
@@PlateletRichGel thats why you experiment, to see if its possible and does not impede the exhaust too much, my first suggestion w/ the barrel of water and pipe shud not impede exhaust much at all as its only a slightly longer exhaust in the end, the radiator tho is something that needs to be looked at as the baffled nature of it would put up resistance
There's a guy on here that tried it, I think his name is David Mcluckie. He does all sorts of things with these chinese diesel heaters.
I was very fortunate to get a portable diesel heater for £59 last year so I bought 4 of them , I use one in my garage, one in my shed workshop and the other 2 I have for spares just in case. I love them , both the workshop and garage have solar so I use AGM batterys to power them both.
I can see these becoming a business venture. With a package of heater, deep cycle battery, solar panel, ducting etc an entire system could be built outside a home(for safety) and duct hot air inside a home, or new build, for probably less than £1000 and capable of heating an average size home for a few pence an hour. A solar panel(with mains back up) to recharge the battery and, if the heater fails, it can be swapped out for a brand new one for £80 + fee, the old heater fixed, cleaned and reused. The initial outlay maybe expensive but it would soon pay for itself. Or even the same system heating water through an existing radiator system? The way electricity and gas prices are rising people will be turning to alternative heat and power sources, mainly things like opening fireplaces/chimneys for wood/coal burning for heating and cooking and solar/batteries for power... ironically the extortionate electricity/gas prices is going to cause more people to burn fossil fuels, something the government is trying its hardest to end!
Very true. Cheers J
I can see these helping people avoid the "Cost of Living Crisis" (TM) and therefore be made illegal on the pretext of safety.
its already out there...
i'm already doing it, as are others ! using 12v wind turbine too ! tax free energy !
@@wayland7150 They are very safe - I've had 2 in my motohome for 5 years - no more dangerous than gas appliances shall we ban them too?
I've got one in my home, and it warms just fine for several years now.
It is connected to my own solar system, with 12volt traction battery, so the power supply is also free.
To clean you can sometimes use petroleum, that cleans the system.
When friends or strangers come, they find it a super idea 😊
does it not kill the battery quick time though? i wouldnt have thought it can run on on a 12v battery without killing it fast?
@@s1dew1nd3r4 Mine runs on a 100 amp hour lithium LFP battery box with a built in 6 amp charger. The watts needed to run vary with the heat setting as the pump and fans turn faster with higher heat output. I see 19 watts to 48 watts when I run H2 to H6 heat settings. But the startup and shutdown sequences use a lot more power temporarily as it heats the glow plug for a while. Maybe 130 watts for a minute or 2.
Will definitely subscribe for that steam turbine. That sounds really interesting. I always wondered how they keep the steam pressure from blowing back through the water intake and keep everything moving in the right direction. Look forward to it. :)
Hi, thanks for video, here is some things you might think about:
- Intake of burner must be taken from outside, as you let out other tube. now you are venting heated air to outside, its not a big deal, but when -20c and want to run quietly...
- thermometer is not so good on controller, but you can use to "set" certain temp.
- 5.5hz is 5kw heater. 5,8kw units are the same.
- you can calculate consumption via pump hertz to get more consum information if needed :)
- running on lower setting will have ALOT less consumption of power, you can use your 13.8v ac adaptor (if you use a small lead acid battery in pararell for igniting)
Here on finland electricity prices is about the same, abit more. like 30-60cents/kwh in euro total atm, and there will be alot problems of poor people paying bills as we need heat long time, as we are on north.
That's excellent information. Thank you. Cheers J
Yikes your electricity is expensive! In New Mexico USA I’m paying about 12 cents/kWh. Stay warm -
One thing must not be forgotten when you want to extract heat from the exhaust gas: if it cools down to 100 °C, the water vapor can condense and mix with the carbon dioxide to form carbonic acid. The condensation boiler is also created (the flue gas is cooled to 75-80°C), which is why it is made of acid-resistant material (preferably). If you still want to extract heat and do not want to install another heat exchanger, then the temperature of the flue gas must not go below 120°C under any circumstances.
carbonic acid is good for humans.
when you took the side panel off @2:18 , that heater unit, is the one they have been selling for nearly 15 years. I have two. And without the large box that yours comes in, makes it very easy to install 'under-floor'. And you can locate the 10L fuel reservoir anywhere to your liking.
Great information.
Cheers for sharing.
This is a great video, and you obviously have the right attitude about helping people improve their situation in these increasingly hard times. I think you did a great job here, and I just wanted to add something that might help someone understand something that could be life saving. because of the trade I worked in (and still do in a less formal capacity due to age and health) I have spent a fair bit of time around many many different versions of this basic design of heater.
Edit: as another commenter says further down, CO is actually neutrally buoyant in air, it's CO2 that sinks. Still, all the rest applies, and of course CO2 is toxic and also a product of combustion. All I can say is my exams were many years ago, and it seems I need to double check my terrible memory more often. To the commenter that brought this to my attention, thanks again, mits important that info like this be accurate, and I appreciate the reminder.
As a journeyman pipe fitter, gasfitter and plumber, which is the set of trades in Canada which deal with gas fired appliances, I want to offer an EXTREMELY serious warning. Do NOT operate units like this without a carbon monoxide detector, plus a backup carbon monoxide detector installed in the room. I would suggest one near the unit, and above it, which will detect any exhaust gasses escaping the heat exchanger warm enough to rise (carbon monoxide normally sinks, but hot gases rise), place the other one at least a foot below the level at which the mouth and nose of any person in the room would be located. So if its a sleeping room, have the second detector near the floor. A workshop with a pit of any kind should have a third detector down in the pit. If in a room heated by a gas fired appliance you start to feel your eyes burn or develop a headache, shut the heater off and leave the room IMMEDIATLY. Look up the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning and understand them, and explain them to those others who use thew room as well.
Cheap heat exchangers tend to corrode, and bad welds sometimes crack, either of these will result in the products of combustion entering your breathing air, which is extremely dangerous. Heaters like this are cheap partly because they are less well constructed, so make sure there are no holes or cracks in the heat exchanger when it arrives, and inspect it carefully OFTEN to make sure heat cycling has not created any cracks.
Properly used by someone who takes adequate provisions for carbon monoxide detection, understands how to maintain good combustion in the burner, and who inspects for wear and damage is fairly safe, but there is a greater risk using a product like this than from alternatives. I personally would use a heater like this because I am well versed in how they might fail, and how to be safe, but if you are not properly informed, BECOME INFORMED before you install something like this. .ot's of people use them all over the world, a similar system heats my camper, and truckers often use them in their sleeper cabs. it can reach -50 here for weeks, and they work great.
Oh and lastly:
If you have pets, understand that since they breath so close to the ground, they will die of poisoning before normal detectors that install above the floor may even ring the alarm, so ensure ground level detection of carbon monoxide gas exists if you have a shop cat. The only carbon monoxide fatality I knew personally was a friends very beloved dog, who slept curled up near a heater like this one. It was very sad, my friend had never thought about the possibility that the first person to start breathing CO would be his dog, and had his detectors mounted in places that made sense for people in a workshop, but not a wheezy old bulldog that slept on a cushion in the warmest part of the shop. It might not be just you that you need to protect.
Again, GREAT video, great channel in fact, keep up the great work, you have a subscriber in me.
Thank you so much. I'll be sure to include this information in the follow up video. Cheers J
Good point Charles. Nice to read lengthy comments written by people WHO CARE!!
@@joshuadelisle Thanks for letting me know you sw it, have you thought of doing a video on inspecting and testing various sorts of machinery, or one on potential failure modes and risks? Maybe you already have, I haven't had toime to really run through your content. Anyway, hope things are going well for you over there in the isles.
I've got a loan to get solar panels on, but that doesn't help regarding heating
I've got someone to do an air tightness test for me, to see exactly where I'm leaking air, in order to help remedy where I'm leaking air. The idea is to make it as air tight as possible, and then save up for an MVHR
I essentially want to use PassivHaus principles but not necessarily going full PassivHaus because at some point, you get diminishing returns
The biggest take aways from the institute for me are :
Air tightness
Add MVHR
Maybe upgrade Windows and doors
Upside radiators for a heat pump
could i just get a sacrificial canary and leave it near the unit ?
I bought a chain-fall hoist from Vevor as well as a beam clamp they sell.
The two worked wonderfully to anchor the chain-fall to a beam in my garage and let me lift heavy loads in and out of a truck and hopefully will allow me to pull my project car's engine soon.
I'll be looking at these diesel-fired heaters, as while the garage is insulated and wired for power, it's not set up for heating and something like this could work well to take the edge off during the winters.
Vevor is the Acme of China !
I too have a number of Vevor products and would have no problem recommending them, generally speaking cheap Chinese junk today has become cheap Chinese products, everyone will tell of a disaster but no one mentions the many happy customers. The lower prices also makes many tools available to the average person which would have been cost prohibitive, can only be good😊.
As an American who's primary winter heat is wood... who lives in a very fire prone area where it gets freezing cold often a month or more before I can safely burn fires, I've been debating one of these. Our power bills aren't as insane as yours, but they've about doubled over the last year.
whose
@@Cotronixco The irony of someone who can't be arsed to write a complete sentence or use punctuation having the stones to correct other people's grammar amuses me to no end.
@@drackar No wonder it's so difficult for you. I mention the word using a very friendly attitude, and you respond by fighting with all your being to make sure you retain your stupidity. You've probably done this for years. Take advantage of the new knowledge instead of foolishly fighting it.
@@Cotronixco My friend, if you believe using a single word grammar correction is friendly, there is something disturbing about you.
@@drackar Oh? As a hurting person, do you really think that adding more information to correct the misspelled word would have been effective and necessary?
*Joshua: "...but it's illegal?" Being of a Tech bent, you landed in my right-column this morning. After watching this presentation and reading the top 50 or so Comments; confirms to me how absolutely soul crushingly bleak it must be to function today as a Free Citizen and not a Subject in the UK or EU west of the Visegrad Nations. Stay the course you have set because you are doing God's will. Respect and Cheers!*
Thank you so much. They're now banning wood fires here... we've used fire for over 6000+ years and it's totally sustainable but they want us to use the grid which is controlled by corporations.... I'm going to do my best to find the loop holes and reasonable alternatives otherwise I may leave this degenerative country for the wild somewhere. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle *You're very welcome. The goal is clear. No fireplaces or wood stoves for those who wish to use them denies a basic human need inherent in our DNA and assures a more State-subservient populace. Eventually, come Advent/Yuletide Season the proles might only experience a crackling fire on their TVs. The dystopian, Soviet vibe is strong. Pity, that. Your narrative makes me count my Blessings even more: Quite coincidentally, my annual order of a US Cord (3.625 cu metres) of split, dried Red Oak/Almond/Citrus/Walnut mix arrives Monday. Again, respect and Cheers!*
Those are the type of heaters included in commercial truck APU kits for heating a sleeper cab in winter without running the truck. Just mount the burner unit under the bunk and run a fuel line out to oone of the saddle tanks. They work very well. I had one warm my sleeper compartment in -45f wind chill temps (-25 air temp)
Thats no joke, those Webasto's will cook you out of the truck even when it's -40F actual air temp.
They are awesome in a Semi , as long as your batteries hold out. In the early days before genpac's battery life was an issue.
Technology has made big jumps since.
Well presented.
One thing to note regarding your calculation for "how much more efficient it is than electric" compares direct heating (which I know is popular in Brittan). The latest generation heat pumps have SCOP above 6, meaning every kW in equals 6kW heat out.
The upfront investment is of course on different levels, but with pre 2022 prices the heat pump will have lower running costs. Add factors such as interest on loans and it gets kind of messy but it's kind of amazing how efficient latest generation heat pumps have gotten.
(For anyone looking up "what heat pump has SCOP>6" there's the Thermia Atlas that I know of)
What is worth noting is that heat pump "steals" heat from one spot to other using some form of agent. Usually it's RA134a and RA134a has a boiling point of -26 degrees. This is important because it means that heat pump cannot "generate" more heat if it's input side is lower than -26 degrees. It's very probable for air operated heat pumps for that to happen, it happens much less often with ground heat pumps. Also the closer to -26 degrees you get, the less efficient heat pump is. Heat pump with SCOP above 6 will not have SCOP above 6 if input is below -20 degrees. Some heat pumps have resistive heater built in as fallback to -26 degrees limitation
@@darekmistrz4364 in which case, one of these diesel powered bad boys would be a good fallback for when it's colder than -26, or when the power is out as It can be 12v powered! Or be an absolute mad man and rig it up as a pre heater for the heat pump lol
@@darekmistrz4364 your mostly right apart from the gas. 134 is the old automotive gas (phased out now)
You wouldn't find that in a house heat pump. Mostly there R32 thease days
@@darekmistrz4364 -26 I can assure you isn't something we expect to see in the UK as a rule. -16 maybe on a few nights of the year in only a few spots. Being an island, we are surrounded by sea and it would take an Ice Age to freeze that and TBH that's not where global temperatures are trending.
before the exhaust fumes go outside, direct them through an old radiator
in this way, the heat from the exhaust gas is also used for heating
this is a buddy he made it: ruclips.net/video/IuKskfzBmOk/видео.html
Thank you, I've actully started experimenting using the exhuast to heat water and only costed me £12 of parts so far. cheers J
Nice one 👍
@@joshuadelisle just keep in mind there is a max 2 meter exhaust travel allowance with a max of 270 deg bends along that 2 meters of exhaust pipe. If you go longer or have more bends (like 4x 90s) the unit will start to suffer in performance. As well, these burners need to be run hot every so often to help keep carbon and coke buildup to a min, more so if burning waste oil. Most of the criticism that waste oil doesn't work is from people who don't do this. The fun part is you can try different blends of oil/diesel/gas even brake fluid with these heaters and get good results.
@@kwakman99 thank you ill keep that in mind. Cheers J
As a full time vanlifer a chinese diesel heater is not just a luxury but a life saver! Last winter hit -10°C and without a CDH i'd have frozen to death. I run mine on kerosene (heating oil) which i can buy 'off the pump' at a local garage at 99.9 pence per litre. I have a 2Kw unit and it burns roughly a litre a night (10hrs) so it's a pound a night to heat my van 👍🏻
That's excellent. Well done 👍. Cheers J
Wabasso and S bar have been making those for years. If you look at their installation instructions they tell you that the air intake hose and the exhaust hose have to be a certain length for proper combustion. The air in the shelter also helps out with the noise.
They also make them in a tiny little 12v version that fits inside of a truck or lorry sleeping area.
There are no thermostat settings, so you can get roasted!
Webasto !
Yeah I used to fit them on Lorries and Boats, im a boat builder now. You can use extended exhausts, burner intakes and exchange intakes and outs but if you introduce too many bends in them you need to go into the fueling and fan settings and modify them so it's burning closer to 14:1 again. It's not difficult to do but if you are fitting the genuine ones on a boat then everything has long runs on it. On boats and just as a mod to get them running really good you need to replace the fuel tubing with the rigid type and run them into proper rubber hoses with clamps just as they leave each connector. They make cheapo copy kits of the boat fuelling hoses and I've been told they work fine. Watch what fuel filter you buy as they are known to disintegrate cheap filters and never lengthen the controller panel wiring without figuring our the wire resistances first as that can cause all sorts of issues. See if you are using nasty biofuels or garbage diesel run them flat out for a few mins before you turn them off as it saves your heater plug and keeps them clean. Using a mains power supply for them will always be a timebomb because if you get any sort of power cut or spike it will instantly turn off without the shutdown cooling sequence and it will burn out the inner PCB and the internal wiring on these cheap ones. The genuine ones can take about 5 or 6 hard shutdowns. Cheers.
This looks really interesting! Thanks for demonstrating it! One thing I would have a hard time with would be the noise that it makes. I would not want this machine in my living space. I might set it up in an adjacent room that I don't spend time in, like a utility room or something, and blow the heat into my living space from there.
You've got a really intelligent crowd here! One of the smartest comment sections I've seen.
And yeah, the workmanship is pretty shoddy, but that doesn't bother me much. As long as the components are decent, I can fix up anything that needs it. Translates to a great price!
I wonder if you could wire in an external thermostat to replace the internal one. It could give you more accurate control of the ambient temperature.
@@theobserver9131 I believe the sensor is in the control unit which can easily be extended
A box packed with exhaust stuffing would kill the noise and be safe.
Great review Joshua - fantastic how you took the product apart inspected and explained its workings and then carried out a “controlled” test. Excellent content once again. 👏👍✊👌
Thank you Trevor, I've discovered other factors since so I'll include those in the follow up. things like how to calculate the out put and is it really 8kw, what is the electrical consumption and can we heat water using the exhaust. cheers J
Yes.
Yeah, but the control didn't actually evaluate the output so it's baloney.
@@nickwinn7812 well we were told the size of the room, and we saw the temperature at the start and at the finish by the :-( and happy smiling face :-)
Based on the room size and temperature difference it's possible to work it out.
@@Google_Does_Evil_Now It' not possible to be over 100% efficient, full stop. Plus you need to know the heat loss calculation for the room, not it's size.
In the 1990s you were supposed to register your waste oil burner which cost £100 and another £100 for a licence every year , and once they knew about you the cost go up yearly ......obviously i never did register which saved £thousands !
For something I wasn’t interested in at all, this video certainly made me feel like I need one!
Good, honest review
These are fitted to lorries busses and used to be exclusively ‘Wabasto’ brand (sp) which were about a grand to buy! Once they get the space to temperature, the fan slows down to almost silent, just topping up the heat, so efficiency will rocket at that point.
Thats interesting to know. I'll look into that further and include the saving in the next video. cheers J
I have a Defender 90 for work and was thinking about one of these kits for dual purpose - to dry wet gear in the back overnight and to have her toasty in the cold mornings. Some have timer starts. Not keen on drilling the body though as she’s a good’un. I’ve also read breaking into the fuel lines can cause issues with starting/running both, and getting to the fuel sender for a feed is a pain on defenders.
I’ll get to it someday! Glad I’ve found your channel 👍🇬🇧
they became cheap a few years ago when webasto's patient ran out, then suddenly became very common in the boating and van life communities
I have had one of these since 2017. 6 years later still going strong no complaints whatsoever
The 'kink' s you describe it in the fuel feed line is actually intentionally put there as a simple fuel metering device. Don't take it out or you will get over rich fuel feed into the boiler....don't ask how I learned this.
Edit to add: Don't worry about what appear to be constant small air bubbles in the fuel line going from the pump outlet to the burner. These bubbles are a natural by product of the way the pump operates and they assist in controlling the way the fuel is delivered and atomised to the burner chamber. The bubbles are not a fault in the system.
you have a good eye for detail
@Don't Shoot I think he just means 'flow rate control'
The kink is not intentional, it's a fault. Any flow restrictor would be (and is) inside the unit, the fuel pipe is just that and a kink is a potential failure point. My unit does not have any kinked fuel pipes.
All the Chinese made heaters (8 of them in total) that I have serviced have exactly the same crimp deliberately placed in the delivery tube from the pressure side of the pump. The manufacturers confirmed that it is there as a simple form of fuel metering device. If the crimped section is cut out and the feed pipe reconnected without that restriction then the heater burns in a vastly overfueled manner with a rich air to fuel mixture and clouds of black smoke issuing from the exhaust....trust me I once made the error of removing it from the pipe on a heater and it was impossible to get it to run without loads of sooty smoke coming from the exhaust. It isn't simply a 'kink' in the pipe it is a section of the pipe with a deliberate crimp in it. On more expensive Webasto type heaters costing several hundred ££££s more than these cheap import heaters the fuel is metered through a metering block with a jet in it.
@@howardosborne8647 Can you tell me what page of the installation manual mentions putting a kink in the pipe, I have one in my hand and can't find it anywhere.
Sorry, I'm calling out your bs, it is complete nonsense that an external pipe would need to be restricted in order to make the device work properly.
Perhaps the simple fact is that your devices were improperly calibrated, or possibly calibrated for a smaller capacity pump. Fuel metering is achieved by changing the frequency with which the pump is pulsed, 5.5Hz was the frequency shown in the video and I'm supposing this was for a 22ml pump. If you used a webasto 28ml pump you would be overfuelling by about 27% which would explain your sooty results.
Funnel the exhaust pipe through an old radiator before going outside and wasting heat. Use air intake to heater through shroud on radiator to recapture the heat to preheat the intake air which will increase efficiency.
That is a great way to die. ❤
At temperatures below 250ºF creosote will condense on the surfaces of stove pipes or chimney flues
Creosote? From Diesel? Don't think so.@@TqSNv9R0iG5Ckxew
I fitted a cab heater (Eberspacher) in my workshop over 25 years ago before the cheap versions were available, as others have pointed out it is preferable to run the instalation via a 12v battery and battery charger, this will ensure correct shut down procedure in the event of a mains powe failure. Even if its running when the power fails eventually the low battery voltage wiill shut the until down correctly without damage.
That's good to know. Thank you. Cheers J
I use a 12v 30amp psu. Can be had for £25 on Ebay. Far better than using a battery unless you live somewhere where power cuts are common.
@@codprawn Since most heat with electric I believe it has more to do with reducing the need for using mains power to cycle it on and off and more of how to keep it reliable and affordable to stay warm in the winter. If you have a solar "generator" you could stick solar panels outside during the day and recharge the "generator" for when you use it at night, since consumes very little when running a 1000w one should be more than enough to run it with just solar charging it. Of course some of those can be used as an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) so it would be topped up if/when the power goes out, of course you will still need to charge it somehow if power remains out.
Just discovered you this eve Joshua, absolutely loved this video. I am a self employed welder fabricator/ engineer and was thinking of getting the usual expensive brand of these heaters and doing the same in my workshop. This unit seems a good punt for the price. looking forward to seeing your other stuff.
Thank you. I'm starting to doubt using Chinese products from a sustainability and economic point but who can pay for locally made thanless you build it yourself.. cheers J
These type heaters were used on Trojan Earth moving equipment 30 years ago . These units are more like a 3 kw unit as they were used to heat the cabs ( which are the size of the drivers seat of your car ) in the winter .
One very important note. Normally, homes are heated not with resistive heating elements but with heat pumps that use the vapor compression cycle. These typically operate at a coefficient of performance of between 2 and 5. This refers to the energy required to move a quantity of heat between two points. For example, a heat pump operating at a COP of 5 would only require 200 watts to move 1,000 watts of heat from the outside environment to the inside. Heat pumps are also used to cool by operating in reverse. It's important to consider the efficiency of heat pumps when doing this kind of comparison. Still looks like a good product given the outrageous energy costs in Europe.
Worth noting is that heat pump "steals" heat from one spot to other using some form of agent. Usually it's RA134a and RA134a has a boiling point of -26 degrees. This is important because it means that heat pump cannot "generate" more heat if it's input side is lower than -26 degrees. It's very probable for air operated heat pumps for that to happen, it happens much less often with ground heat pumps. Also the closer to -26 degrees you get, the less efficient heat pump is. Heat pump with SCOP above 5 will not have SCOP above 5 if input is below -20 degrees. Some heat pumps have resistive heater built in as fallback to -26 degrees limitation
@@darekmistrz4364 RA134a has already phased out, modern heat pumps in last 5 years are using R32. R32 boiling point is -52C and R32 heat pumps have 1.5-2.0 COP at -30C. At least this is how it is in Nordic heat pump market.
Google does not agree with your thesis @Brandon B. Homes being heated with heat pumps is the smallest percentage.
I have never seen a home heated by a heat pump in the UK. They are rubbish, anyway.
@@richardjames4632 Oh no they are awesome. Espacially when using a groundwater heat pump since groundwater has a temperature of 10-14°C year round at least in Germany. So you can heat your house with a COP of 3-5 depending on the groundwater temperature and on how much you can cool it down. Also right now the industry is adapting the concept due to the high prices for natural gas. A 20 Megawatt heat pump (7 MW electrical power) is currently beeing build which will use the water of the rhine river as a heat exchange source. So the concept goes a long way with applications for BASF as well since they need a lot of Steam and Natural gas steam reformation got a lot more expensive lately. If we would be able to produce and store electrical power a bit more reliably (maybe with a bit more nuclear power) Germany could be fine.
Good video. I suspect why it's illegal to burn waste oil at home when in fact it's burned when commercially disposed of is that commercial disposal facilities are regulated for emissions (or at least are supposed to be). I'll bet a lot of people will be using these this year to heat their homes without permission because the economics is driving them to do it and they think it's worth the chance of getting caught as opposed to freezing.
Nice review, I am glad you did this and the calculations but one thing I think could be included in the calc is the amount of electricity that it used during that hour and the cost. Thanks for the great work and I appreciate you.
Thank you I'll definately do that for the follow up video. cheers J
They use hardly any electricity. 20 amps 12v on startup but then about 20w when running.
Most of the wattage used is converted to heat. I’m paying 13 cents per kWh. Think 50 hours operation for a ~ dime
40watts indicating 0.04kW/h used by the heater x 30p per kW/h charge by the lèche board = 1p for each hour it’s run!!!!
leccy use on these things is negligible, Diesel is the big cost.
I have no idea why youtube recommended me this video but I am glad they did, great video. Something to maybe look at for the steel shed. Don't think id want to run it in the house
Its scary how the algorithm knows us more than we know our selves.... I'm glad your here. more to come. cheers J
@@joshuadelisle haha yeah, I wish the Algorithm would work like that on my videos haha, kidding. Glad im here to watched the 2nd part and that to was interesting. Seriously considering one of these for my steel shed that I might make into a workshop haha
Ordered one a week or so back for similar reasons, also have a very inefficient oil burner which I hope to use for fuel supply. John McK 47 is the Oracle on these things, incredible detail and very helpful 👌
Well done. thank you. if we fill our house tank up i'll definately connect the fuel line to my workshop heater as buying in bulk is more cost effective. cheers J
Any links on this product? I want one
@@ericstrunck3611 Everything is in the description my friend. cheers J
Great video mate. I've installed a few of these heaters on canal boats and my customers are very happy with the results.
Canal boats are the best
I just had my identical unit delivered about 2 weeks ago - it's been fantastic so far! I still need to pipe the exhaust outdoors, so I've only been doing short test runs (my shop is 26*62*12ft so my interior air volume... well... it's a lot!). But instead of having my natural gas furnaces going, I suspect this will be HUGELY cheaper to run, especially using my waste oil (my next experiment is to 50/50 it with diesel which is about $2/L here).
For my exhaust, I'm going to use a trick we do/did in the generator biz - You drill a hole and shove a ~3" pipe through the wall. Then stick your much smaller exhaust through the large pipe. 3 machine screws 120* apart go through the walls of the larger pipe (drilled and tapped) at each end, so the tips of them just contact (not penetrate) your small pipe. After you're all done, pack the hole around the small pipe with Roxul (or another fire resistant insulation). It's super cheap, and works great.
That's awesome. Some people put a fuel switch over valve so they run on diesel first to get up to temp and have the waste oil copper line wrap around the exhaust to pre heat it and make it run better. Cheers J
Make sure you filter the waste oil thoroughly before dumping it in the generator. You might clog the fuel lines and the injectors. Happened to my last diesel generator that I used to produce electricity.
Never seen one before, in Australia there is so much wood and everyone is somewhat glad when it gets colder and frosty, I remember running around as a kids on frost in the morning in Canberra, horrible place.
I could imagine. Cheers J
I don't think that is a filter, but rather a muffler for the intake so it's not as loud. Probably not too important in your situation, but for those who use these for van camping where the main unit is outside under the vehicle, the intake to bring in cold air from inside the van for heating up before blowing it back inside can be a bit loud.
No, it's a filter alright, a spider and rodent filter...
@@someoneelse7629 exactly a spider in Australia would make a home within a week!
I have to keep my fire extinguisher hoses ends in a plastic bags to stop wasps building mud nests inside the hose!
Cooking oil has just 5% less energy per litre than Dino diesel If you pre-warm the oil it burns just like diesel. Waste cooking oil is full of chunks and other crap. But it’s easy to clean. Fill a container (barrel or water boiler) 1/3 with water and top up with oil. Boil the water and that oil is quickly cleaned by the steam rising through.
@@tonydoggett7627 Australia is wild
@@brarautorepairs yes! but I have also spent time in Papua New Guinea, and the insects are huge compared to what we have in Australia!
The cost of heating this year is sky high. My neighbour usually uses coal to power their boiler, last year it was £400 per ton, this year it is over £800 per ton. We are out in the countryside, so no natural gas. I use LPG for my central heating, the price of which is probably about 20% dearer this year than last year, which is not too bad when you consider just how much other fuels have increased. My workshop is in a big barn, so not really practical to heat it in the winter, but if I had a smaller space I would certainly consider one of these type of heaters, not too bad at all for the price.
I've had one of these for a couple of years now and run it on heating oil at about 80p ltr. Mine has four small vents on the front with ample vent pipe to cut and I have pointed the air flow in different directions with one pipe bent round and pointed on the hot exhaust underneath. I have also mounted my unit slightly higher and extended the exhaust giving me more hot pipe inside with the air blowing over it. The only negative is it's noisy on full chat. Good video.
..for noise mount outside in an enclosure and pipe the hot air through the wall, much less noise and no danger from exhaust leakage. Power goes through the wall as well as the controller inside the workshop. Needs to be turned on a few times every month even in summer. The fuel pump is the weak point so buy spares, you’ll need them
This is the first time I have seen one of your videos. Very good, very informative. I think we'll all be doing this soon if prices keep going up and up.