Yeah, cheaper parts and cutting corners usually isn't good for a firebox plugged into the wall. I'm surprised this wasn't mentioned. Like most things, don't buy the most expensive or the cheapest.
This is typical downtalk to the nontechnical "peasants". If you try to advertise that your equipment is efficient, you don't say "uses less than 60W", you say "uses less power then a 60W lightbulb". Another one you will hear is "spins faster then an airplane propeller" (for an ad such as a garden mulcher or "awesome" food processor). But most propellers are large in diameter, and spin rather slowly as far as RPM's are concerned (2000). So the claim is "true" in a sense, but meaningless.
Brian Park most consumers aren't going to do their research if the box says it's more efficient or better than they'll probably just go with it and assume it's true you'd be surprised how many electronics have "4K" or "Gaming" arbitrarily slapped on the label what's the difference between a "gaming" desk and a normal one well you tell me they look exactly the same....its literally just a normal desk
Watching this while crossing Transylvania in a train with a broken heating system during autumn, thank you for helping me imagine what warmth feels like
Makes perfect sense that the smaller heater is meant for a small room, even if it's higher power, because if your room is really small, the medium heater won't fit inside it.
Many moons ago I worked at IBM. They had a rule against space heaters. But they had a lot of obsolete computers stored. So if you were cold, you just went and got a computer or two, stuck them under your desk, and turned them on. They were only maybe 500 watts each, but it would warm up the space under your desk.
If they were idling, they were likely only outputting < 200w each. My 10+ year old six core gaming PC doesn't even use 500w at full load. My 10+ year old 42" Sony Bravia LCD uses about 250w! I actually use it to heat my room in the winter...I put a fireplace screen saver on my old PS3 which adds another 150w or thereabouts. Even my 18w aquarium light changes the temp of my small room by a degree or so.
I never did that trick myself, so I don't know if the people who did arranged a load on the machines, but it was around 1995, so maybe they were bigger power hogs back then.
I recently installed a 97% efficient gas furnace in my house and when I heard that the price of natural gas was going to go up by a lot in December I also installed a set back timed thermostat to turn it down at night. I kept the thermostat set fairly low both day and night trying to keep the bill down. What I didn't know is that two of my roommates had electric heaters going all day and night in their rooms...at the end of the month I got the energy bill and it was insanely higher than it had ever been before. I know that electricity is the most expensive way to heat anything. At the beginning of January we had a meeting and we agreed that I would turn up the furnace thermostat to a much warmer comfortable temperature if they would unplug their electric heaters and stop using them altogether. I just got my energy bill (gas and electricity combined) for January and the bill was exactly HALF as much as December's bill. I knew that it would probably be lower but I never expected it to be THAT much lower. Lesson learned.
@@rangyixiong Not much of the country is so close to a hydro plant that electricity is cheaper than Gas for heat. I live in the Colorado mountains at over 9,000 feet. Around here gas fired forced hot air supplemented with a good wood stove on the real cold nights is the way to go. We are not even into December and last night's low was 13 below zero F .That is -25 celsius
The 97% AFUE is in reference to how much CO2 is released into the air, or gas efficiency. That probably depends on what condenser you have as well. The higher the seer rating, the more energy efficient.
The heater itself requires space in the room. Once its cooled to the ambient temperature of the room it requires energy to heat the heater as well. So therefore its likely equally as efficient. #BigBrain
@@musicwiz40 there's still a reason why they make bigger heaters and not just everything as a "small room" fan heater. I'm guessing it's because the fan heaters overheat quickly, which makes them constantly turn on and off, which is unsuitable for larger rooms because it takes longer overall. They're probably designed to run for shorter times. If they're run in a big room, they'd have to run pretty much constantly It could also be that shifting air currents in a big room will constantly turn them on and off, which is not suitable. Also, the safety aspect of it. They can lead to fires more easily than radiator heaters. That risk is majorly increased if they are unattended and run 24/7 with no breaks.
@@marioluigi9599 I agree with this logic. The larger sirface area of radiation disperses the heat more effectively as there is more contact area also the larger mass of metal holds onto heat for longer therefore releasing heat even whilst the resistive element is off.
@@musicwiz40 if we assume that small heaters turn off because the device itself overheated then sure. But that claim needs some evidence. I’d argue that’s a design flow though if it is the case for some heaters. And if it’s just a thermostat location issue, the cool device he showed at the end to just only send power to the heater based on an external thermostat would solve that problem
@@huckthatdish your comment in no way relates to what I'm saying. Totally out in left field. I'm having trouble trying to make sense of what you've just said and how in any way that relates to what I've just said?
@@aarongreenfield9038 I'm going to make a space heater that will make you lose weight. Just shed that fat right off you. And you can have it for only a low low price of three payments of 99.99 shipping not included
I used to run 3@ P4 systems of Distributed Computing programs (BOINC) in the winter, to keep my office warm. (a P4 system added 100W consumption when running at 100% when compared to idle)
I remember the old gas space heaters. My great grandmother had one with five or six fire bricks that on one surface had a "forest" of tiny evenly spaced cone shaped projections. The heater was across from the foot of a bed. Those projections at the bottom closest to the flame when hot would glow a shimmering pumpkin orange color. I remember on cold, quite winter nights staring into the fire box watching the cones change different shades or orange up and down the column of little cones, rarely reaching the top rows of cones. The "hissing" sound of the gas coming out of the gas jets, occasionally a "spark" would come flying out of the flames (i always imagined it was a bug of some kind that had gotten to close to the flame). Sometimes in the background a cold wind could be heard be whistling though the poorly fitting windows. Hypnotized by this I would eventually fall asleep and awaken to the smell of bacon, fresh biscuits and "breakfast is ready".
I am an HVAC guy for last 30 years and really enjoyed the video from the point of view how to educate customers. Very nice narration. I do not know if you did any video on explaining that if coming to a cold house, turning thermostat way high will NOT heat the house any faster. It just makes you having to go back and turning it to comfortable level some time later. I deal with that all the time. Also, about ventilation - opening the window just a crack will not really ventilate, it is just a heat loss spot with little of actual air exchange happening. And that goes for both heating or cooling season.
I install commercial automation systems and I cannot tell you how many times I've had to explain to people that just because they want to set the thermostat lower than corporate chosen 72 degrees that it won't cool the building faster lol
while this true, for some that have it located on the opposite side of the room they are in, the higher setting can allow the heat that does come out to not cool down as much as it hits them, so THEY will feel a tad warmer.
@@NickCranford Part of the problem is that people are not educated, and they don't know that a thermostat is simply on or off, at least that is the way that it used to be, but now some systems are getting variable power output levels now. They have well pumps that can run at a rate to match the demand for water so that the pressure does not cycle from low to high to low to high as in the old days. Constant city water pressure at the cheaper price of well water. Some air conditioning systems now are variable also, for greater efficiency. The other issue, is stupid thermostats that fail to indicate whether they are actually at the moment generating a call for heat or for cooling. There should be an indicator to show this, which would make it easier to adjust the thermostat properly. Gee, how are people supposed to figure out how things work, when the displays are designed by idiots with no reasonable diagnostics being shown?
@@Bubu567 An older-style thermostat could have a LED that lights up when a call for heat or a call for cooling is indicated. Now that thermostats are computers and have complicated liquid crystal displays, there ought to be a indicator, a triangle or the word "cool" or "heat" that appears, when it actually is generating a call for heat or a call for cooling. This is a clue to the dummies that adjust the thermostat too high or too low, that what they want is already being called for. Also a diagnostic towards repair, that if there is a call for heat, and no heating is occurring after a few minutes at most, check your heating unit, because the problem doesn't appear to be with the thermostat. Since I understand how a lot of things work, I tend to trust thermostats to make the decision. If I am cold or hot, I will nudge the thermostat up or down little by little, and usually, at the point at which it generates a call for heat or cooling, I stop. And then when it is set just right, I tend to pretty much leave it alone. But I am getting really sick and tired of stupid computers and the idiot lights on dashboards, that do not bother to tell us much of anything about what is wrong. Many electrical components have a LED or something that lights up, to indicate that at least the device is powered up. On some TVs, the power LED might flash or go off momentarily, when it is receiving a signal from the remote control. That is a diagnostic, that at least it is receiving something. Somewhere, I heard of there being some special type of paper, that if you aim a TV remote at it, it will convert the invisible infrared pulses or flashes so that they can be seen within the normal visual spectrum of light. Of course I have never heard of a TV coming with a piece this special diagnostic paper. And as complicated and computerized as TVs are now, if I could design the TV's software the way that I would like to, somewhere buried deep within its menus, I would have a diagnostic screen in which you could aim any standard infrared remote at the TV, even one not set for that TV, and it would display the actual remote digital number codes that its infrared sensor is reading and the signal strength. Consider somebody building some experiment or custom project circuit. Well it needs switches or a keyboard or something to turn it on or set its modes, right? Depending on what it is, a old TV remote might be perfect, perhaps it went to an old TV that died and was thrown away. You could put some batteries in the remote, press each button, and write down a table of all the digital number codes. Then you could program those codes into your control circuitry and redefine the codes for controlling its own functions. So what would this be useful for? Oh who knows? Maybe a remote-controlled fan. You could build your speed-control module and attach it to the fan or plug the fan into it, and decide which buttons on your old TV remote would correspond to Very Low, Low, Medium, High, an off timer, etc. Or you could build a high-current-rating air conditioner control module to plug your window air conditioner into. It could be a programmable thermostat or something. But then it would need a digital readout display. Your project circuit wouldn't have to have any buttons on it, if you use an old TV remote as its input. Let's say that you need numerical input. Well the channel number buttons on the TV remote, ought to be perfect for that.
An important word on space heaters: STOP PLUGGING THEM INTO POWER STRIPS! If you can’t plug it directly into an outlet, get a quality extension cord, the shortest you can get to do the job. As an IT professional, I can’t tell you how many melted down, turning brown or black power strips I have found over the years with space heaters plugged into them. In addition, how many glitchy computer problems I have solved by removing the space heater from the same strip the computer is plugged into.
Agreed and one of the many reasons I am glad I don't really have to deal with users in an IT setting anymore. In my IT management days I was reported to my managers on a regular basis because I was being mean. Which, in my case being mean meant that I had asked a idiot users not to plug a heater or Christmas tree lights into the same power strip as their computer was plugged into. I would explain to users till I was blue in the face about how these things would cause surges which could cause issues with computers. But to no avail cause I would come in daily anything from crazy acting systems to a call center room with a smell of smoke from something that burned out. Which, in one case -- an idiot user actually stayed at a workstation while it was smoking. SMH.
You just have to love how intelligent people are. I've seen a presentation room that includes a power strip plugged into another strip plugged into an extension cord. I always unplug the two redundant strips and use the extension cord directly and wonder at who is foolish enough to use the original setup (and keeps restoring it.)
@@nameless-sn3tj I know, right? "My computer keeps crashing" Ask them to explain the crash: "I'll be doing something and it just shuts off all the sudden, and I don't get it because I have a UPS" Do some quick desk diving to find that the UPS is plugged into a surge strip, and that they have a surge strip hanging off the UPS. I try to explain how they confuse each other, but they don't get it. Just tell them to trust me and I get rid of the power strips and plug the computer and monitor directly into the UPS and the UPS directly into the wall, and they have no further problems.
Yeah bu the duty cycle rating isn't continuous, that's why it's meant for smaller rooms. If you put it in a bigger room, it has to run longer and that little fan will fail sooner than a bigger one.
I lived in a 1 bedroom appt in Chicago. It had electric heat and was really expensive. I got a 1500 space heater and ran it 24/7 my electric bill went down 100.00 per month in winter. It didn't have to run a huge motor in a already large inefficient wall unit.
I have two oil-filled radiator heaters, one a fancy Delinghi and the other a Wally World special that cost less than half the other. Guess which one started dripping oil after its first winter?
When I was looking into buying a space heater for my work office, I noticed that the different types of heaters kind of had explanations for how quickly they could heat a room. They didn't talk about "efficiency." I ended up getting a "mid-grade" ceramic heater, and it does heat up faster than the old coil space heater I already owned for my bedroom. That cheap $10 one probably works and may even be a fast heater, but it's made from the cheapest materials, it's connections inside are probably shoddy, so the thing will probably break down, overheat, the dial on the "thermostat" break off, etc. within a few years. I honestly don't feel safe keeping a space heater on all the time and letting it turn itself on and off based on whatever setting I gave it. If I don't hear or feel it on, I might forget it's on, and leave without turning it off, so I just turn it on to full blast until I get a little too warm, then completely turn it off. It's usually a while before I feel the need to turn it on again.
@@MeyaRoseGirl Well I agree that this video ONLY talks about heating capacity and efficiency. But not about durability of the heater. Buying a more expensive one can be justified if it last twice as long.
I got me an off-brand, $10 1500w small space heater from wish that still gets crazy hot & quietly too after almost 2 years....outlasting the more expensive, $110 1500w Lasko branded big room heater that has only been used twice! Lesson learned here.
I live in Queensland Australia, it's summer at the moment and much of the state is literally on fire and here I am watching and enjoying a video informing me about space heaters, if that isn't high praise for your videos I don't know what is.
Blake Pitcher I was surprised how beautiful Brisbane actually was. I’m from Sydney, but went there for a holiday recently, and absolutely loved it. Would definitely visit again.
We bought a space heater at a local store in Australia. The 2nd time we turned it on it went bang, lots of smoke and it tripped the fuse box. Took it back to the store and they said they had an exchange only policy so we got a new one. This one lasted three days before it blew up and shut down the fuse box. We took it back as well and finally, after a LOT of arguing, got our money back and went elsewhere. It's not just how much heat they give out, it's how safe they are.
I admire that you stuck with it and got them to relent in the end. When they tried to push back I would have wanted to ask them to put it in writing that if I took another one home and it damaged either my fuse box or caught my house on fire they agree to pay for all damages and any loss of life. 🤷♀
😮 wow! Isn't there anything like in the USA we have the UL If it's listed as UL certified (most electronic things are) they will back the item up as safe. We had a satellite box smoke..we guess tiny fire inside. They sent us a postage pass box to ship ot to them. They wanted to investigate. Once the company who's brand nane is on the product, also wanted it, plus offered upgraded box on return. This was early days of the internet. It was nice or even going to go to a store. Lol, but that thing had scared me!! Like, what if I hadn't been home and smelled it? Brand new house too!!
@@nailsofinterestThat is very interesting! I didn't know that Underwriters Laboratories would do that. Do you have any other details of how the UL scenario worked out for you?
why did i watch this i live in a desert disclaimer because i *still* get replies about this: no i dont live in every desert on the planet, and i am now very aware that deserts can be cold. thank you
Israel too?:) We need 'em more than cold country citizens BC warm country building standards allow me to die from +12 rainy night... Why did I left Ukraine?🤓
some deserts get snow i'm in northern az but still south of flag and we get snow. it'll get up to 80 again the next damn day but we get snow and then it'll be like 26 at night. so we have heaters in our bedrooms and i run the house heat or else everyone's basically unable to move in the morning lol. a lot of the houses have tile floors and the window insulation isn't the best so it makes everything unreasonably drafty. i felt a lot more insulated in colorado because they actually build like they know it snows there, i think our houses up here could do better :P
The fact that you personally put these informational topics together for teaching the laymen PLUS editing and extra learning along with it is just incredible to me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Refreshing honesty ! I love people like you. I bought 4 ceramic heaters all rated the same 1500W that were not UL approved and had bad switches on them. The switches were steal springs with about a millionth on and inch copper coating on them. One was perfectly rusted over in an even coating of rust not copper. Also the cords were 16-2 wire instead of 14-2 a fiery death trap. Yes I fixed them all. Amazon was asking $170.00 for each recently ! I paid $70.00 each. After my Amazon review I could not find those heaters on Amazon. These heaters were knock offs of the original Pelonis disc heaters of which I still own one from the 1990's all metal well made and UL approved. People should be aware of products made in foreign countries not made to certified quality standards.
Fun story. I my wife and I have different approaches to buying things. I like to rigorously read consumer and professional reviews and by the best value option. My wife goes to Best Buy and picks up the first (or cutest) one she sees. So when we decided we needed a space heater for our office I got to reading. She on the other hand could not wait and went to the store and bought a $15 heater. My fancier hundred dollar heater came in a few days later. What we found was that her $15 heater heated the room much quicker than mine. We pretty much always use hers now.
Let me guess the wife's one is forced air cooled and loud, based around a small dense PTC "ceramic" heating element. It just pulls 1500W continuously on the 110V line... Your premium one is silent, wire wound? Maybe tower style with a slow big fan that swivels the air slow? Then the premium one only pulls 1500w on start and goes down with heat immediately...
@@kitecattestecke2303 the small one will work harder than the big one, it will break sooner and more likely dangerous. The big one maybe will warm the room equally But in the same room both of them will take the same power to work, the big one can't magically put more power from the thin air
I've known these laws of thermodynamics for 45 yrs. I'm a retired journeyman who has done H.V.A.C . For 42 yrs as I went to school for HVAC . I'm so glad you took the effort and time to explain these physics ! I know I should have but only explained these concepts to all my friends . I laugh Everytime a commercial comes on saying a new invention has been created .Heat does not go away it just goes from a higher to a lower condition but is always in existence ! Again ,thank you for teaching these concepts to the public .
Maybe you can help me with this thought I had. Imagine you have two identical vehicles that weigh the same, and accelerate from 0-60 in the same time, however, one uses a small turbocharged engine and the other uses a big V8. Would they burn the same amount of fuel during that moment of acceleration?
@@mhess427 That is dependent on the engine efficiency. The net work done during acceleration is the same for both cars, but turbocharged engines are (usually) more efficient at extracting the chemical energy from fuel due to their cycles being less irreversible as they repurpose the kinetic energy of the exhaust gas as boundary work during compression (the most efficient processes are reversible processes but those are hypothetical processes that do not exist in real life just like ideal gasses.). Also, a big engine will have more internal friction than a smaller engine, adding to the fuel use.
@@mhess427 turbo engines are kind of unusual period as mentioned by the commenter before me they use the energy in the exhaust gases to compressor to force it into the combustion chamber. This increases the amount of air hence you require more fuel when you're in full Boost then you do when you're just cruising. Essentially the more boost use the more fuel you need to combust. There is a very strict fuel-air ratio in gasoline engines and no matter if the engine is turbocharged or not that fundamental ratio Remains the Same. So let's say you buy a turbocharged car and it's rated at 29 Mi to the gallon but you discover that you're only getting 24 miles to the gallon. The car is again brand new. The reason that you're not getting the rated mileage is that you have a heavy foot you're using too much throttle which is involving the turbocharger more so you need more fuel. Now I'm an older guy so I don't look to go as fast IDs precisely the speed limit no matter where I'm at. I've got a naturally heavy foot to be honest, so I put my cruise control on in most situations other than bumper-to-bumper traffic. I have 2019 Hyundai Elantra no turbocharger with dual clutch transmission. The EPA rating for the car is 37 miles per gallon. My style of driving around town which where I live could be up to 55 mph I get 38 miles to the gallon period and on the highway I get 42 miles per gallon. What I have noticed if I go 5 miles over 70 mph my gas mileage drops about 5 miles to the gallon. Essentially the way cars are tuned today by the automakers to meet EPA cab requirements their Peak efficiencies is going to be at 70 mph anyting over and efficiencies going to fall off dramatically. It also matters what gasoline you use. The argument that all gasoline is the same is halfway right. Refineries pump gasoline into pipelines to go all over the country. Once they go to the distribution points that's where they're combined with chemicals for each specific brand. Gasoline is one of the few things you can buy that you get exactly what you pay for period for example when I bought my 2019 Elantra I use shell regular gas. One day I was in a hurry and I went to a Wawa that was across the street and filled up. My gas mileage drop 25% within a few miles. I actually keep an eye on my gas mileage because that is your first indication that something may be wrong with your car. I know this is a very long reply and I hope you find it useful. My personal recommendation is Shell gasoline. I've been burning it in my car since 1983. And whenever I deviate from that I lose gas mileage. That is my personal experience driving probably in excess of 250 thousand miles to date.
I worked in IT at a large hospital system. Electric space heaters were illegal by City Code and hospital policy. There were many Nursing managers in office with cold feet. My solution was a private HP laser jet II old old printer. It was about 2000 watts with no power saving mode. My team laced it by their feet with the printer fan blowing hot air. Placing a power strip with off switch for when legs because too hot or when they went home. Due to upgrades we had a few hundred of the old HP laser jet printer- heaters. In addition they could print confidential records with out going to the open group printer.
@@kelakakku half the time they're literally labelled in chinese, he's not being racist he's pointing out that the vast majority of those with bogus claims come from china as there's no law to stop them from BSing it in their own country then selling it to gullible americans.
@@alexphillips4325 People, please read the box or package. I want to know details, such as what type of battery does this device use. If it is not indicated or it is a non-standard battery, something other than AA or AAA or a standard 9-volt battery, then that tells me I probably should not buy it. It is poorly designed, it is probably junk. Well at least some claims are obviously BS to people who actually know something about how that stuff works, and that is another reason not to buy it. They do not deserve the sale if they can not manage to represent their product honestly. Obviously no mere electric heater can possibly produce 150% efficiency, unless it is using some radical new technology such as the NWO-suppressed free-energy technology, and if so, why in the world would they not boast about that also? Americans should not be so gullible.
I used to work at a hardware store that sold a wide selection of space heaters. People would ask me to make a recommendation, and I'd always tell them to get an oil-filled heater and a cheap box fan. Steady, quiet heat evenly dispersed throughout the space. And then when summer rolls around, Hey! - You've already got a box fan!
Thanks for this video. I've recently seen some ads for these "miracle efficent space heaters" and been curious about how they work. Didn't make sense based on my relatively basic understanding of emergy transfer and thermodynamics but i was open ro leatning how they'd managed to take a space technology and make it affordable for the mass market. Thanks for clarifying that it is nothing more than marketing.
THANK YOU, mechanical engineer here and have tried to explain this to people. My poor sister fell for the "efficient Amish" heater..I have the $8.88 ones
The Amish heaters are way more aesthetically pleasing than the $8.88 Walmart one you have. It’s not “falling for” anything. It’s paying for the way something looks.
I live in a travel trailer in New Hampshire, and I have two heaters. One is a 1500W Lasko tall-and-skinny heater that oscillates. I picked this one because it has a remote control. I found a second one that is an oil-filled convective heater but is broken so that it's stuck on low and can't be turned off. I use the Lasko in the bedroom at night (nice to be able to control it without getting out of bed) and pull it into the kitchen during the day. I use the radiator when I'm away at work because it doesn't use much electricity and I just want to keep the inside of the trailer above freezing, which works well even in temperatures of 10 below. I have a fan that blows air through the fins and circulates the "warm" air very well. If it's really cold (25 below, yes I've seen it that cold) I'll run both heaters. I've gone through a lot of heaters to see which one works the best (most are used that people give to me). I have a weather station that can also measure the inside temperature, and I can view the temperature graph on a web page. I take a heater and run it until the temperature levels out and then switch to a different one. After an hour, I can see if the inside temperature dropped, rose, or pretty much stay the same. If the temperature drops, that heater is toast. If it rises, the current heater gets replaced. Currently the oscillating Lasko is the best, keeping the temperature at least 10 degrees warmer than anything else I've tried. And no, I can't use a radiant heater because it would be a fire hazard in the small confines of the trailer. One thing I have to do regardless of the heater is to place a fan near the ceiling aiming down. Heat rises so I have to push it down again to get a more even heating. In a house this isn't much of a problem, but in a travel trailer without an arctic package, it's a must. Back when I was stationed in the Army in Alaska, I had to work in a small shed to do weather balloon flights. The shed had an oil burning furnace and when running on 75 below days, it could get the air at the ceiling to about 150 degrees. Unfortunately, the air at the floor was below zero, and the air at desk height was barely above freezing. After I started working there, the engineer in me figured out a way to heat things up. I put a fan on the ceiling aiming down and the temperature became comfortable. Oil use in the heater went down substantially too. What once became the garbage job at that station became one of the best ones there. Sorry for the large post. Thought you might find it interesting.
I found your channel 6 years ago while I was in the military and I was addicted to watching your shows LOL you do a great job. Very informed and I have learned so much from you. Thank you.
Well it is pretty much ensured that humanity will be extict before that happens (because the sun will run out of energy, our galaxy will collide with another galaxy and eventually run out of energy) and it's predicted to happen in 10^100 years which means it's not something you should worry about :)
Yeah well just our sun burns 5 million tons of hydrogen or 3.8 x 10³³ ergs, every single second and we only get 0.01% of that so pretty sure your puny electric heater isn't going to do anything significant.
@@ceruleanc505 that's actually a good thing, can the energy source from your furnace converted to only light, or only movement? Electricity is volatile, timewise hard to store and can replace all the other energy's easy... Fuel does not
Can you please remind me what your pfp is from? I knew at one point but have forgotten so I’m out of the loop. There’s gotta be thousands upon thousands of folks who use it so I was curious. Thanks
thank you so much for these detailed clarifications. As I live in an old park home, the insulation is not the best and I often wondered whether I ought to buy one of these latest advertised heaters rather than relying on expensive bottled gas central heating. I already have an old oil heater so you put my mind at ease. 😊
I watch this channel every now and then and found this video while I was looking for a bigger space heater. I think I'll stick with my current "small room" 1500w unit Thank you for helping me save some cash.
Found you at the right time Brother, thank you greatly for your vids on this subject. Currently been researching the best heaters for the house here in the UK and you've answered many of the sceptical questions I had. Cheers buddy!
Actually, after Crysis required too much from PCs, and only so many people could play those; the next two games were made increasingly softer for the machines they were released for. In other words, they were released for machines made around the time the game came out, but not high end ones per say. You know, to sell more games.
Used my PC for crypto mining and supplement heating around the time of the massive spike crypto had. Even on -20f days my room was a comfortable 64 degrees (I live in a colder climate, 64 is pretty cozy). There were times when it was in the 30s where I actually had to open my windows to keep my room from being too hot. Funnily enough, during the crypto craze there were actually tiny houses for sale in the Netherlands heated solely by cryptominers. It was actually a fairly brilliant idea.
Forget the server for me. My PC with the door closed just watching these videos do a very effective job. I get the waste heat from both my TV and my PC tower and I can comfortably heat the room to a balmy 25 C and even higher if I decide to do a gaming session. Yay I love double duty items. Also though it takes a little longer with the efficiency of computer components now compared to when I was back in university (2006-2010) and watching videos all night with my AMD Athlon 64 computer.
I've been watching your channel for a while and watched this 5y later. Like the format. One point I want to make is that not everyone perceives comfort in the same way and maybe that's where the efficiency argument is made. With regards to objective measurements it's going to be the same. For example. I feel warm in a 15 degrees room with warm radiators and cold in a 21 degrees warm room with cold radiators. That's in Celsius. I think I react to the radiation more than other people. For this reason I'm considering infrared heaters as a supplement to the main radiators based installation.
"And eventually this leads to the heat death of the universe 🎉" Haaaaaa. That's quality humor right there. Also truth. I'm now existentially mortified.
@aud_io What are you talking about. Heat death occurs once all the black holes have evaporated and there is only uniform dispersal of energy across the entire universe, work will be impossible (and there would be nothing to do the work anyway). Intelligent life will necessarily all be gone before heat death of the universe occurs, because an intelligent being is a big clump of energy.
I literally read this comment at 4 pm. So now I'm confused. I think I'll watch it again when I'm sitting at my desk at work at 4am tomorrow to keep me awake lol.
Rewatching this video during the cold season and it's a great video. Would love a follow-up video that also discusses the personal heating efficiency (and safety) of space heaters compared to heating pads/blankets.
I've tried and tried to explain to my mother that they are all basically the same. Like talking to a wall. Everyone seems to fall for the advertising gimmicks.
It seems, that people are only willing to learn when they desire to learn something. Using my self as a example (A poor one, I know) but I have often been described as a brick wall when someone is trying to teach me something. On the flipped side, I *LOVE* watching 'educational' content (Often poorly researched and explained, but not always) and talking to people to learn information. It is an interesting dichotomy. It makes me wonder; is there is a method to encourage someone or people as a whole, to be willing to learn with a greater intensity, or have the desire more often?
@@HowardDPVT This is why I'm a firm believer in teaching how to self-teach above anything else. If you learn how to self-teach, you will learn forever. Schools will NEVER do this because it goes against their whole existence. If everyone could self-teach, people would become extra aware of how bullshit formal education often unfortunately is. School also hyper-focuses on teaching you impractical BS. As an analogy, they'd teach you everything about a wrench EXCEPT how to use it. *_Waste. Of. Time._*
I had a hell of a time convincing my fiancee that 1500W is 1500W, it doesn't matter if we buy the jumbo ultra fuck you big or the one that's the size of my shoe. The only difference is the size of the fan in it.
People are stupid. And that is what advertising relies on. If more then 5-10% of actual smart people were around, we wouldn't get BLASTED with dumbfck comercials, because they'd instantly knew what is going on and the farytales were useless !
I love it when facts and knowledge are used to dispel nonsense. I am quite happy with your good RUclipss😊 Keep up the great work! I used s very cheap heater for an entire room. It took a while, but thankfully it worked! "They" will yry to sell us dreams. Thats for politicians and religious leaders to do!
I bought a space heater that had this safety feature. It would quit working if tipped over. Great, but the heater quit working after just a few months. So I took it apart to see what was wrong. That safety feature was a very simple relay that was normally on. Tipping it over would turn off the relay. The entire power of the heater went through this relay; which I consider a design flaw. The relay was so cheap and chintzy that regular use of the heater melted the relay down. Once I engineered my own relay - much beefier than the original, it worked again. That was 15 years ago and it's still in use every winter. But because the manufacturer used a 50 cent part instead of a $1.50 part, the heater went from 15 year life cycle, to less than 4 months. Next, I think you should go shopping for vacuums and explain to the world why vacs rated in amps is meaningless.
Engineered your own relay? That would thousands if done properly. I would just look at the specs of the old and buy an off the shelf better quality relay..(end sarcasm)💩
@@broderp It's cheaper to use 24Ga steel and a copper slug to replace the existing relay arms. All parts scrounged from my garage and given from a local metal fab shop. Cost to me: $0. Now go and try to spec a proprietary relay and buy your off the shelf replacement for $0 and let me know how that works out for ya.
It's a design decision to reduce liability and risk of litigation. If the relay fails and it tips over, it's better to let the heat melt it and cut off power. If the relay doesn't melt, then it might start a fire and burn the house down. It's a choice between having a product that fails prematurely and losing a few customers, or getting sued for millions because somebody died.
Ewwww bitcoin. Thanks for fucking over the computer component market just so you can get richer. I hope your profits tank more than they have been and you are left with nothing.
Get a Epson eco tank printer. You can print thousand upon thousands of pages without needing a refill. I went three years without needing a refill on ink.
@@stevelux9854 I often wondered about that ... Correct me if I am wrong, but I have always got the impression that, long term, a planned maintenance contract for x equipment is often more valuable, and thus generally generates more revenue than buying x in, and of, itself, especially if, like most lazy people like me, whom has taken out domestic household appliance insurance, you don't think about chopping and changing your insurer that often, if at all. So whilst decent printers are expensive, depending on how long they actually last, and depending how many ink cartridges you use (especially given their tiny volume ...), it doesn't take that long to wind up paying out as much in cartridges as you did for the initial printer ... And just to make it worse, the cartridges that come with the printer are not always filled to capacity ... so buying a new printer everytime you need new cartridges is no longer as cost saving it once was ...
My understanding from a relative of mine that used to work at HP, is that HP sells printers at cost - that is at no profit or depending on the market at a slight loss; just so they can sell higher quantities of the ink, toner, supplies, parts, service and extended warranties which is where they make their real profit. HP is a big enough mover in the printer business where other manufacturers had to follow or their sales would take a massive hit.
As a person that's lived in very cold climates in motorhomes and trailers I've tried everything. For electric heaters the radiator style oil heaters definitely work better for keeping an area at a constant temp.. but none of them compare to a good woodstove.
The image that comes to mind is a car traveling at a moderate high speed on the highway to conserve energy as opposed to one that has to stop repeatedly, then burn more fuel to get where it's going. That's why highway fuel economy ratings are always better. "Slow and steady wins the race." It's fizzicks!
There is a lot I didn't know about space heaters! This is such a useful video. The correction regarding Watts being a unit of power made me happy. Another correction: heaters that don't blow air around (such as the oil heaters) actually do not spread the heat via convection into the room. Convection is a movement of the air (or any fluid) and if it were happening in the room, you would notice it. If you place your hand or face right over the heater (not touching!), you will feel a small wind, which feels like heaven. If you look closely edgewise at the top of the heating unit, you might see like a boiling motion of nearly transparent air. Convection is indeed happening there, where the heater is putting its heat fast into the surrounding air. But further out into the room, the transport of energy is slower and happens by diffusion. Diffusion is a creeping of molecules accross the room. You won't feel that as air movement, and it's slow. It is the reason why heaters that don't blow air around the room have such an inertia getting the room warmed up. The unit itself warms up pretty quickly. Now if you'll excuse me, I think my bathroom warmed up.
Google peltierelement. You can get more heat energy per eletrical energy. It doesnt break the second law. But you can use the eletrical energy to move heat from a to b and thx to the second law all the work will end in heat. In some circumstances you can get 1,8 watt heat energy per 1 watt eletric energy
It's one reason why anything labeled "eco ____" gets put at the bottom of my list of things to buy: it's typically marketing over physics, arrived at by tinkering with evaluation metrics or... just flat out lying. And also, they tend to not last as long.
@@flinch622 For things like computer monitors, there's the "energy star" sticker on them. They usually refer to features that turn themselves off automatically if they haven't gotten used in a little while.
But not to physics on the electrical side.. If you take a 1500W PTC heating element force cooled and connected to 110V it pulls always the same wattage. If the fan fails it will burn itself that's why by design there's an overheat switch. The wire wound type heaters go down on wattage after first few minutes even with cooling, so a 1500W element might pull less under operation!! If you buy the wire wound self regulating heater element with 1500w from China you will notice that it pulls 4000W and more on start up, like a dead short until it reaches a higher temperature and resistance rises to stop current flow..thus less power draw and radiation of heat into the room. Force cooling needs to be extreme high pressure and volume on wire wound resistive to reach the efficiency of the dense PTC elements with same wattage, radiant constant power wise
Had I seen THIS VIDEO first, I wouldn't have wasted an hour and a half listening to the overwhelming misinformation from the others! Super thanks for giving me what I needed to know to finally make an informed decision. AWESOME and even entertaining, my technician son and I will be revisiting over supper!
Really, that's what you took away from this video.............. I mean i'm just thinking if they are made for 1500W then surely you can do a tweak to get more an extra 1800W out of it............
@@johndorian4078 You can't tweak more resistance from a heating coil, you can only bump voltage up to increase wattage. So unless you're running it from a generator that has a voltage drop adjustment, or feel like entirely replacing the heating coil with something homemade from several salvage heaters, there is no tweaking to be had.
An overlooked aspect concerns the multiple watt option. Multiple heaters on the same circuit breaker are problematic if all are 1500w. Older homes are impacted by this.
the first few videos i saw of this channel were early videos. idk how many had this experience, but at first watching them felt cringy, he hadn't fully worked out the story telling part of videos. but the information was so good i kept coming back. now it feels like he has matured as a content creator and still gives that good and accurate information while having enough personality to keep it interesting. idk if anyone feels the same, but its always nice to see people grow.
The one advantage I found to the oil filled heaters, when I was living in a house that had been damaged by fire, gutted, and little no insulation, was that on cold nights I could toss my blanket over the heater and it helped to keep me warm. The surface temp got warm, very warm even, but never hot enough to actually catch anything on fire. (I of course would never suggest anyone do this, but. it worked for the very unique situation I was in at the time.) For my daytime activities the forced air building up under my desk, and blowing across me was much more refreshing and warming.
When I was a kid, my Mom would put one of those oil heaters in the bathroom during the coldest months. I would get up every morning, turn the heater on, then throw my clothes for school over the heater before eating breakfast. It would make everything nice and toasty by the time I had to get ready for school.
Oh for sure. In that sense, they seem a bit safer. Also, you could say that that other heaters aren't necessarily quite 100% efficient but very close to it The reason why I say that is because if it has a fan, you've lost a tiny amount to noise. If it has lighting you've lost a tiny amount to light. It's probably a bit pedantic to say that they're probably like 97 or 99% efficient which isn't something you'd notice ofc. My personal preference is deffo oil filled radiators because of how the heat lingers after being turned off, and tbh being fairly safe in comparison to the other ones where they can instantly set alight if you're not careful
I’ll add; in a power outage the oil heater has a good bit of heat stored and the room will cool off much more slowly (hopefully in time for the power to get fixed 🤪).
I love that you point out that the fan actually adds all its consumed power to the room as heat. I've always tried to point that out to people when they think that a fan "cools a room off" no, you're adding 20 watts of heat to the room, you're just assisting evaporative cooling and preventing warm air from your body heat from accumulating around your body by being in a breeze, but the room air will get warmer by adding fans.
Interesting. So cooling the hundreds of watts of electric lights used to work on the inside of an aluminum fuselage on a wide body jet with hurricane fans ain’t gonna cool it down much, will it?
@@cme98 Unless your bedroom is made of aluminum or another heat conductive material, generates a lot more heat than the surrounding air, and the air being pushed around by the fans is circulated away from your heat generating, conductive room, no fans will not cool down your room.
@@cme98 Depends on if it's sucking in cooler air from the outside, exhausting the hot air to the outside, or just moving air around inside a sealed room. I know you were trying to be an asshole with your comment, but ignorance doesn't really make you look good
This was extremely educational and informative and I thank you for your time making this! Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays! Btw Ive had a $20 mini heater for almost 20 years and it still works perfectly for my needs. So he is definitely correct about price not always making a difference in ability to heat a room.
@@TechnologyConnections So what you call "district heating" is what we in Germany know as "Fernwärme" (lit. far (away) heat)? That's what warms me right now. We get a pipe of hot water into the house (and a flow-back pipe as well, it's strictly a closed circuit; and an enerhy-meter has temperature feelers into both pipes). It's produced by the city, though I'm not entirely certain in what kind of plant - anyway, safer than burning something locally, and presumably, more efficient, too. Outside, the pipes are below-ground and carry heavy insulation.
@@TechnologyConnections District heating is how i've lived over half of my life. It comes from the local chemical plant and research facilities using their waste heat from processes and energy production to warm up our houses. They do, sadly, have to fire up the small coal plant when it hits -25C but it is in quite short periods. I love it... It is stable, steady heat source and since the radiators line up every wall, usually below windows, the heat will spread nicely and evenly. I just happened to set up a thermometer in the ceiling level an hour ago (it was eBay package delivery day :) ) , it is showing 24C and my floor is 22.3C (i live on top of a bomb shelter, the vault below is quite cool all year round... another common feature in a Finnish apartment building..). Many forget that you need to circulate air also in the winter time... One does not need a large fan for diffusing air, even a 120mm PC fan can do it if used strategically... Electric passive radiators are maybe the best but alone they tend to create that heat "bubble" and either are glowing red hot or are barely warm.
thank you for making it nice and clear about the heaters, I have been wondering for some time and getting nowhere with unbiased information, now i feel more confident when looking for my heater.
@tan j maz First was 100% Menards. Second was WalMart. Third I think was Target based on the "conveyable" decal that looks similar to others I've seen there. But it's the only one I'm not 100% sure on.
Thanks, I had observed that the small forced air heaters put out more heat than the oil heaters yet they had the same power rating and you explained that it was the way the thermostat is situated on the oil heater that limits its output. Reminds me of a similar problem at the other end of the spectrum with the sensor for the thermostat for the Galanz refrigerator.
I bought mine because it was a $60 digital thermostat heater that I got on sale for $10 in the spring. Plus it has a 750 watt mode so the circuit isn’t always loaded. I’ve also noticed the thermostat is also effected by humidity. I like a warm bathroom when I shower. The heater set at 86f/30c will never stop running with dry air. When showering and the humidity is 100%, it’ll cut off at 75ish. 🤔
Thats most likely because the humidity takes heat away from the heater faster since the air now has more mass and capacity for heat, so the internal thermostat never gets triggered.
@@willhaney96 This is because 86°F in dry air feels equivalent to 75°F in humid air. Water is way more effective in heat transfer and dispersion. This is why we use ice cubes to cool drinks and water in car radiator to cool it down. Dry air is very poor at heat transfer and dispersion. Think metal tin coffee cups or large ice chest. They have an air void in between that doesn't allow heat transfer to occur. This Will be even more effective if they create a empty vacuum in the air void.
@@Mrkevi123 Quick note, don't use water in your radiator, use coolant (aka "antifreeze"). It's water with additives that lower its freezing temperature (sure) and, as I understand it, resist electrolysis (somehow. I'm not a chemist, nor am I a particularly smart guy), rust, and increase the boiling point (which is already increased because your coolant system is under pressure, not unlike a pressure cooker). Consider all of this information hearsay from an unreliable source
@@willhaney96 Humid air is actually less dense (look up the molar mass of air vs. water). The 3D water vapor molecules do have more heat capacity, specific and volumetric, than the diatomic oxygen and nitrogen molecules, but that means it takes more energy to heat up a volume of water vapor, or humid air, than dry air to a specified temperature.
I do that. Literally. (My room is on the top floor of my house, so it get’s very cold in there during the winter, but to combat that I can leave a game running (like HOI4) and it will keep my room warm, so at night my computer acts as a space heater lol)
Bravo! I've known this for a long time, my Dad being in HVAC. I try to inform others when the opportunity presents itself. sometimes in the aisles of stores. One woman was particularly appreciative.
Just get three 500-watt halogen work lights. Install them overhead. Not only do you get heat, you also get quality lighting that feels like the summer sun 🌞
@@theoledicktwist6247 call me when they sell shades you can use rolling in the couch/bed and general lazyman uses without it digging in your face... Circadian rythm is overrated, i know, but doing nothing indoors is the best winter sport ever, and bright lights don't help much.
IKR? And I'm in FL so I don't use these anyway! Just wanted to see what he said. 1500W is the most you can pull from one standard 120V wall socket. He may say that in the vid, I haven't finished watching it.
This video just confirms exactly what I already knew through experience. One thing I couldn’t figure out though was why one 220 wall heater that barely put out enough heat to keep the house above freezing cost me twice as much as running 7 1500 watts and 1 400 watt heaters nearly constantly in the same house. My power bill was almost $700 with the wall heater and it was around $250-$300 with all the space heaters.
Actually for some persons like me it's the exact opposite. Hot weather makes me anxiety and depression and makes me feel irritable and angry, especially when it continues on for days and weeks on end. Cold weather makes me feel much more contented, happy, relaxed and in good spirits.
As a fellow pedant, I appreciate your level of pedantry and it's why I subscribe. The US-aspect of your videos demonstrates some interesting quirks that I don't find in the UK. *I also love the tweed jacket - the world needs more tweed.* PS: A suggestion for a future video - ceiling heating. My house has ceiling heating throughout the upper floors, which is rare for the UK, but it's incredibly cost effective, efficient, and provides controls for each room (rare in the UK). The usual response is 'but doesn't that ignore the rules of physics?' 😄
@@zoomzabba452 Really? I wasn't aware. Do you have any examples you could point to? Was the system the same as this website's explanation (same system I have, different manufacturer) www.auroraenergy.com.au/help-and-advice/heating-guide/ceiling-heating Cheers.
@@piers389 Similar. I think it was an aluminum heating wire embedded in rubber with a mylar (plastic and foil) reflection layer on top and a fiberglass layer on top of that. Essentially, the system was supposed to, like the one you shared, heat the ceiling, which would, in turn, heat the air to a lower and lower height. The most obvious flaw being the fact that if all the hottest air is at the ceiling no nature convection can occur. This is where in-floor heating systems are superior, to in ceiling at the least.
I'd argue the cheap ones are better at heating since they're more likely to start a fire.
Yeah, cheaper parts and cutting corners usually isn't good for a firebox plugged into the wall. I'm surprised this wasn't mentioned.
Like most things, don't buy the most expensive or the cheapest.
@@jonmayer Good thing civilized countries require electronics to be tested for safety before being allowed to be sold there.
@@jonmayer Thats actually very good advice
The resulting fire would bump the efficiency above %100.
@@ThatBrubakerFellow fires are very inefficient though
Reminds me of the old proverb:
"Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."
HansDelbruck53 , that’s dark ....
@@rewer Some of the best humor can be found in the dark.
Or stumbled over anyway.
Pratchett? =P
this is my new reason to live.
@@rewer No, it's bright!
I love the ads "uses only as much energy as your coffee maker" meanwhile...your coffee maker uses 1500 watts. You just don't have it on all day.
This is typical downtalk to the nontechnical "peasants". If you try to advertise that your equipment is efficient, you don't say "uses less than 60W", you say "uses less power then a 60W lightbulb". Another one you will hear is "spins faster then an airplane propeller" (for an ad such as a garden mulcher or "awesome" food processor). But most propellers are large in diameter, and spin rather slowly as far as RPM's are concerned (2000). So the claim is "true" in a sense, but meaningless.
Brian Park most consumers aren't going to do their research if the box says it's more efficient or better than they'll probably just go with it and assume it's true you'd be surprised how many electronics have "4K" or "Gaming" arbitrarily slapped on the label what's the difference between a "gaming" desk and a normal one well you tell me they look exactly the same....its literally just a normal desk
I use my Coffee maker to make Ramen and to Cook canned soup.
The average European electric kettle is 2000-3000 watts.
Probably explains why Americans aren't as fond of tea. XD
HD is also another one, even being used in computer applications, yet means nothing in that context.
Watching this while crossing Transylvania in a train with a broken heating system during autumn, thank you for helping me imagine what warmth feels like
Are you Dracula?
😁 ...bizarre viewpoint!
Keanu on his way to visit Gary Oldman
You making me sad dawg. I hope you have heat soon.
It's @@noisepuppet!!
Come back please 😢
My advice is buy an Xbox and a 32" tv . My son's room is 10 degrees warmer than any other room in the house ! 😃
Probably batin in there.
Or my gaming pc, the room is boiling when that is on
@@splosh2070 me and my 5700xt
@@gojiragraphics6755 he said hot.. not sticky
I have a 68" plasma tv. Heats my living room. No joke.
Makes perfect sense that the smaller heater is meant for a small room, even if it's higher power, because if your room is really small, the medium heater won't fit inside it.
RFC3514 then why bother using medium heater on a medium room when a small heater works the same as the medium heater and even saves space?
To impress your neighbours, duh!
@@RFC3514 and if you don't talk to or care about your neighbors
What type of rooms are you living in? Broom closets?
This was a sarcastic comment and it's going over everyone's heads.
Many moons ago I worked at IBM. They had a rule against space heaters. But they had a lot of obsolete computers stored. So if you were cold, you just went and got a computer or two, stuck them under your desk, and turned them on. They were only maybe 500 watts each, but it would warm up the space under your desk.
If they were idling, they were likely only outputting < 200w each. My 10+ year old six core gaming PC doesn't even use 500w at full load. My 10+ year old 42" Sony Bravia LCD uses about 250w! I actually use it to heat my room in the winter...I put a fireplace screen saver on my old PS3 which adds another 150w or thereabouts. Even my 18w aquarium light changes the temp of my small room by a degree or so.
maybe 50-150watts each unless they were put underload
I never did that trick myself, so I don't know if the people who did arranged a load on the machines, but it was around 1995, so maybe they were bigger power hogs back then.
@@AaronHendu thuban? Or shudders FX? Or those really uncommon intels of the time
Just grab a couple G5s and if they complain tell them why’d you make them so damn hot then
I recently installed a 97% efficient gas furnace in my house and when I heard that the price of natural gas was going to go up by a lot in December I also installed a set back timed thermostat to turn it down at night. I kept the thermostat set fairly low both day and night trying to keep the bill down.
What I didn't know is that two of my roommates had electric heaters going all day and night in their rooms...at the end of the month I got the energy bill and it was insanely higher than it had ever been before. I know that electricity is the most expensive way to heat anything.
At the beginning of January we had a meeting and we agreed that I would turn up the furnace thermostat to a much warmer comfortable temperature if they would unplug their electric heaters and stop using them altogether.
I just got my energy bill (gas and electricity combined) for January and the bill was exactly HALF as much as December's bill. I knew that it would probably be lower but I never expected it to be THAT much lower.
Lesson learned.
It depends on jurisdictions - for Quebec Canada it is cheaper to heat with electricity
@@rangyixiong Not much of the country is so close to a hydro plant that electricity is cheaper than Gas for heat. I live in the Colorado mountains at over 9,000 feet. Around here gas fired forced hot air supplemented with a good wood stove on the real cold nights is the way to go. We are not even into December and last night's low was 13 below zero F .That is -25 celsius
It is more efficient to keep one temperature or vary high / low temperature only slightly
The 97% AFUE is in reference to how much CO2 is released into the air, or gas efficiency. That probably depends on what condenser you have as well. The higher the seer rating, the more energy efficient.
@@WaxWitch My home heating gas bill is much lower with my 97% AFUE furnace than it was with my old furnace.
The bigger the heater is, the more space in the room it takes and thus the less space in the room it has to warm.
Yes, call me big brain.
The heater itself requires space in the room. Once its cooled to the ambient temperature of the room it requires energy to heat the heater as well. So therefore its likely equally as efficient. #BigBrain
@@musicwiz40 there's still a reason why they make bigger heaters and not just everything as a "small room" fan heater.
I'm guessing it's because the fan heaters overheat quickly, which makes them constantly turn on and off, which is unsuitable for larger rooms because it takes longer overall.
They're probably designed to run for shorter times. If they're run in a big room, they'd have to run pretty much constantly
It could also be that shifting air currents in a big room will constantly turn them on and off, which is not suitable.
Also, the safety aspect of it. They can lead to fires more easily than radiator heaters. That risk is majorly increased if they are unattended and run 24/7 with no breaks.
@@marioluigi9599 I agree with this logic. The larger sirface area of radiation disperses the heat more effectively as there is more contact area also the larger mass of metal holds onto heat for longer therefore releasing heat even whilst the resistive element is off.
@@musicwiz40 if we assume that small heaters turn off because the device itself overheated then sure. But that claim needs some evidence. I’d argue that’s a design flow though if it is the case for some heaters. And if it’s just a thermostat location issue, the cool device he showed at the end to just only send power to the heater based on an external thermostat would solve that problem
@@huckthatdish your comment in no way relates to what I'm saying. Totally out in left field. I'm having trouble trying to make sense of what you've just said and how in any way that relates to what I've just said?
If I manufactured 1,500-watt space heaters I'd market them as 2 horsepower.
wow thats one more horse then the competition. Definitely the better brand.
Go all the way: name your company "Horse Track Heating."
I would do them in calories!
Don't forget to put turn signals on them and sell blinker fluid
@@aarongreenfield9038 I'm going to make a space heater that will make you lose weight. Just shed that fat right off you. And you can have it for only a low low price of three payments of 99.99 shipping not included
What's the point of a space heater if you can buy an Intel Core i9 processor?
Good point. Or even better one of these GPU video cards, then mine cryptos.
I heat my home with bitcoin miners. Why pay for heat when you can get paid to do it?
Or those old Pentium 4's
I used to run 3@ P4 systems of Distributed Computing programs (BOINC) in the winter, to keep my office warm. (a P4 system added 100W consumption when running at 100% when compared to idle)
It's not so great if you have to run an air conditioner in the summer. :P
I remember the old gas space heaters. My great grandmother had one with five or six fire bricks that on one surface had a "forest" of tiny evenly spaced cone shaped projections. The heater was across from the foot of a bed. Those projections at the bottom closest to the flame when hot would glow a shimmering pumpkin orange color. I remember on cold, quite winter nights staring into the fire box watching the cones change different shades or orange up and down the column of little cones, rarely reaching the top rows of cones. The "hissing" sound of the gas coming out of the gas jets, occasionally a "spark" would come flying out of the flames (i always imagined it was a bug of some kind that had gotten to close to the flame). Sometimes in the background a cold wind could be heard be whistling though the poorly fitting windows. Hypnotized by this I would eventually fall asleep and awaken to the smell of bacon, fresh biscuits and "breakfast is ready".
Wow, what a lovely memory. Thank you for sharing it with us.Those fresh biscuits sound amazing.
I loved your story. Thank you for sharing it! 😊
My granny had a Dearborn heater in the kitchen that was so comforting to watch while you ate breakfast
@@Cam-vz2zk Yeah! Its very calming, hypnotic, mesmerizing!!! That sounds an awful lot like asphyxiation!
Stephen King could run with this!
I am an HVAC guy for last 30 years and really enjoyed the video from the point of view how to educate customers. Very nice narration. I do not know if you did any video on explaining that if coming to a cold house, turning thermostat way high will NOT heat the house any faster. It just makes you having to go back and turning it to comfortable level some time later. I deal with that all the time. Also, about ventilation - opening the window just a crack will not really ventilate, it is just a heat loss spot with little of actual air exchange happening. And that goes for both heating or cooling season.
I install commercial automation systems and I cannot tell you how many times I've had to explain to people that just because they want to set the thermostat lower than corporate chosen 72 degrees that it won't cool the building faster lol
while this true, for some that have it located on the opposite side of the room they are in, the higher setting can allow the heat that does come out to not cool down as much as it hits them, so THEY will feel a tad warmer.
@@NickCranford
Part of the problem is that people are not educated, and they don't know that a thermostat is simply on or off, at least that is the way that it used to be, but now some systems are getting variable power output levels now. They have well pumps that can run at a rate to match the demand for water so that the pressure does not cycle from low to high to low to high as in the old days. Constant city water pressure at the cheaper price of well water. Some air conditioning systems now are variable also, for greater efficiency.
The other issue, is stupid thermostats that fail to indicate whether they are actually at the moment generating a call for heat or for cooling. There should be an indicator to show this, which would make it easier to adjust the thermostat properly. Gee, how are people supposed to figure out how things work, when the displays are designed by idiots with no reasonable diagnostics being shown?
@@yosefmacgruber1920 It's great when the bar indication get's smaller as you turn it up higher. Talk about deep confusion :)
@@Bubu567
An older-style thermostat could have a LED that lights up when a call for heat or a call for cooling is indicated. Now that thermostats are computers and have complicated liquid crystal displays, there ought to be a indicator, a triangle or the word "cool" or "heat" that appears, when it actually is generating a call for heat or a call for cooling. This is a clue to the dummies that adjust the thermostat too high or too low, that what they want is already being called for. Also a diagnostic towards repair, that if there is a call for heat, and no heating is occurring after a few minutes at most, check your heating unit, because the problem doesn't appear to be with the thermostat.
Since I understand how a lot of things work, I tend to trust thermostats to make the decision. If I am cold or hot, I will nudge the thermostat up or down little by little, and usually, at the point at which it generates a call for heat or cooling, I stop. And then when it is set just right, I tend to pretty much leave it alone.
But I am getting really sick and tired of stupid computers and the idiot lights on dashboards, that do not bother to tell us much of anything about what is wrong. Many electrical components have a LED or something that lights up, to indicate that at least the device is powered up. On some TVs, the power LED might flash or go off momentarily, when it is receiving a signal from the remote control. That is a diagnostic, that at least it is receiving something. Somewhere, I heard of there being some special type of paper, that if you aim a TV remote at it, it will convert the invisible infrared pulses or flashes so that they can be seen within the normal visual spectrum of light. Of course I have never heard of a TV coming with a piece this special diagnostic paper. And as complicated and computerized as TVs are now, if I could design the TV's software the way that I would like to, somewhere buried deep within its menus, I would have a diagnostic screen in which you could aim any standard infrared remote at the TV, even one not set for that TV, and it would display the actual remote digital number codes that its infrared sensor is reading and the signal strength.
Consider somebody building some experiment or custom project circuit. Well it needs switches or a keyboard or something to turn it on or set its modes, right? Depending on what it is, a old TV remote might be perfect, perhaps it went to an old TV that died and was thrown away. You could put some batteries in the remote, press each button, and write down a table of all the digital number codes. Then you could program those codes into your control circuitry and redefine the codes for controlling its own functions. So what would this be useful for? Oh who knows? Maybe a remote-controlled fan. You could build your speed-control module and attach it to the fan or plug the fan into it, and decide which buttons on your old TV remote would correspond to Very Low, Low, Medium, High, an off timer, etc. Or you could build a high-current-rating air conditioner control module to plug your window air conditioner into. It could be a programmable thermostat or something. But then it would need a digital readout display. Your project circuit wouldn't have to have any buttons on it, if you use an old TV remote as its input. Let's say that you need numerical input. Well the channel number buttons on the TV remote, ought to be perfect for that.
An important word on space heaters: STOP PLUGGING THEM INTO POWER STRIPS! If you can’t plug it directly into an outlet, get a quality extension cord, the shortest you can get to do the job.
As an IT professional, I can’t tell you how many melted down, turning brown or black power strips I have found over the years with space heaters plugged into them. In addition, how many glitchy computer problems I have solved by removing the space heater from the same strip the computer is plugged into.
This really should be better known!
People love sneaking these damn things in and stashing them under their desks. Its the first thing i look for when odd problems arise on cold days.
Agreed and one of the many reasons I am glad I don't really have to deal with users in an IT setting anymore. In my IT management days I was reported to my managers on a regular basis because I was being mean. Which, in my case being mean meant that I had asked a idiot users not to plug a heater or Christmas tree lights into the same power strip as their computer was plugged into. I would explain to users till I was blue in the face about how these things would cause surges which could cause issues with computers. But to no avail cause I would come in daily anything from crazy acting systems to a call center room with a smell of smoke from something that burned out. Which, in one case -- an idiot user actually stayed at a workstation while it was smoking. SMH.
You just have to love how intelligent people are. I've seen a presentation room that includes a power strip plugged into another strip plugged into an extension cord. I always unplug the two redundant strips and use the extension cord directly and wonder at who is foolish enough to use the original setup (and keeps restoring it.)
@@nameless-sn3tj I know, right? "My computer keeps crashing"
Ask them to explain the crash: "I'll be doing something and it just shuts off all the sudden, and I don't get it because I have a UPS"
Do some quick desk diving to find that the UPS is plugged into a surge strip, and that they have a surge strip hanging off the UPS. I try to explain how they confuse each other, but they don't get it. Just tell them to trust me and I get rid of the power strips and plug the computer and monitor directly into the UPS and the UPS directly into the wall, and they have no further problems.
Great video. I’ve been in the HVAC field for 22
years. I get tired of trying to explain this to people. Good job.
Yeah bu the duty cycle rating isn't continuous, that's why it's meant for smaller rooms. If you put it in a bigger room, it has to run longer and that little fan will fail sooner than a bigger one.
I lived in a 1 bedroom appt in Chicago. It had electric heat and was really expensive. I got a 1500 space heater and ran it 24/7 my electric bill went down 100.00 per month in winter. It didn't have to run a huge motor in a already large inefficient wall unit.
It's been 4 years since you uploaded this, but I just watched it for the first time.
Truly an eye-opener. Thanks for the information!
Last spring when my heat went out, I did find one compelling reason to buy the more expensive "fancy" heaters.... It's all the store had left
I have two oil-filled radiator heaters, one a fancy Delinghi and the other a Wally World special that cost less than half the other. Guess which one started dripping oil after its first winter?
CantankerousDave, the fancy one?
When I was looking into buying a space heater for my work office, I noticed that the different types of heaters kind of had explanations for how quickly they could heat a room. They didn't talk about "efficiency." I ended up getting a "mid-grade" ceramic heater, and it does heat up faster than the old coil space heater I already owned for my bedroom. That cheap $10 one probably works and may even be a fast heater, but it's made from the cheapest materials, it's connections inside are probably shoddy, so the thing will probably break down, overheat, the dial on the "thermostat" break off, etc. within a few years.
I honestly don't feel safe keeping a space heater on all the time and letting it turn itself on and off based on whatever setting I gave it. If I don't hear or feel it on, I might forget it's on, and leave without turning it off, so I just turn it on to full blast until I get a little too warm, then completely turn it off. It's usually a while before I feel the need to turn it on again.
@@CantankerousDave You can't leave a girl hanging like that
@@MeyaRoseGirl Well I agree that this video ONLY talks about heating capacity and efficiency. But not about durability of the heater. Buying a more expensive one can be justified if it last twice as long.
Haha my $10 space heater from Walmart has worked great for the past 4 years. Good on you for pointing out this bogus marketing.
Agree, the Pelonis heater is $10 and works great
loud as can be though
Eh, no worse than any other fan driven heater.
I got me an off-brand, $10 1500w small space heater from wish that still gets crazy hot & quietly too after almost 2 years....outlasting the more expensive, $110 1500w Lasko branded big room heater that has only been used twice! Lesson learned here.
@@AmandaHugenkiss2915 Pelonis ftw.
I live in Queensland Australia, it's summer at the moment and much of the state is literally on fire and here I am watching and enjoying a video informing me about space heaters, if that isn't high praise for your videos I don't know what is.
@Jeremiah Rasing Brisbane, soon to be Bris-Vegas when the giant new Chinese casino is built.
Blake Pitcher I was surprised how beautiful Brisbane actually was. I’m from Sydney, but went there for a holiday recently, and absolutely loved it. Would definitely visit again.
Queensland has the best dogs.
@Roger Tickler no, Australian Cattle Dogs. The breed is nicknamed "Queensland heelers"
@Roger Tickler cant wait for the vote this october and vote the old sag out
We bought a space heater at a local store in Australia. The 2nd time we turned it on it went bang, lots of smoke and it tripped the fuse box. Took it back to the store and they said they had an exchange only policy so we got a new one. This one lasted three days before it blew up and shut down the fuse box. We took it back as well and finally, after a LOT of arguing, got our money back and went elsewhere. It's not just how much heat they give out, it's how safe they are.
I admire that you stuck with it and got them to relent in the end. When they tried to push back I would have wanted to ask them to put it in writing that if I took another one home and it damaged either my fuse box or caught my house on fire they agree to pay for all damages and any loss of life. 🤷♀
😮 wow! Isn't there anything like in the USA we have the UL
If it's listed as UL certified (most electronic things are) they will back the item up as safe. We had a satellite box smoke..we guess tiny fire inside. They sent us a postage pass box to ship ot to them. They wanted to investigate. Once the company who's brand nane is on the product, also wanted it, plus offered upgraded box on return. This was early days of the internet. It was nice or even going to go to a store. Lol, but that thing had scared me!! Like, what if I hadn't been home and smelled it? Brand new house too!!
@@nailsofinterestThat is very interesting! I didn't know that Underwriters Laboratories would do that. Do you have any other details of how the UL scenario worked out for you?
China
@@Cam-vz2zk Exactly!
Years ago, I was heating two bathrooms, one with a waffle iron, the other with a pop corn popper, both with the 1500 watt heating elements exposed.
My kinda guy, just doing what works.
@ I remember playing with a friend's easy-bake oven when I was 5. Are they still made? It used a 100W incandescent bulb for heat.
Ah the jank heating methods
R Frizz yeah the still make them, there was even a Girl Scout one a few years ago.
You survived healthy? 🥺
why did i watch this i live in a desert
disclaimer because i *still* get replies about this: no i dont live in every desert on the planet, and i am now very aware that deserts can be cold. thank you
Israel too?:)
We need 'em more than cold country citizens BC warm country building standards allow me to die from +12 rainy night... Why did I left Ukraine?🤓
And I live in South Florida. Around here some people buy space heaters when a cold front comes through, then return them to the store. 🤐
Same, but still, gets cold in the winter
Deserts tend to get cold quickly on winter nights. Still helpful on occasion.
some deserts get snow
i'm in northern az but still south of flag and we get snow. it'll get up to 80 again the next damn day but we get snow and then it'll be like 26 at night. so we have heaters in our bedrooms and i run the house heat or else everyone's basically unable to move in the morning lol.
a lot of the houses have tile floors and the window insulation isn't the best so it makes everything unreasonably drafty. i felt a lot more insulated in colorado because they actually build like they know it snows there, i think our houses up here could do better :P
The fact that you personally put these informational topics together for teaching the laymen PLUS editing and extra learning along with it is just incredible to me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
They sent me off college, to gain a little knowledge. But all I wanted to do is learn how to score! Ask Jimmy Buffett.
Refreshing honesty ! I love people like you.
I bought 4 ceramic heaters all rated the same 1500W that were not UL approved and had bad switches on them. The switches were steal springs with about a millionth on and inch copper coating on them. One was perfectly rusted over in an even coating of rust not copper.
Also the cords were 16-2 wire instead of 14-2 a fiery death trap. Yes I fixed them all.
Amazon was asking $170.00 for each recently ! I paid $70.00 each. After my Amazon review I could not find those heaters on Amazon. These heaters were knock offs of the original Pelonis disc heaters of which I still own one from the 1990's all metal well made and UL approved.
People should be aware of products made in foreign countries not made to certified quality standards.
"...which leads to the heat death of the universe." {Party horn blows}!!
Hilarious!
agreed.
Fun story. I my wife and I have different approaches to buying things. I like to rigorously read consumer and professional reviews and by the best value option. My wife goes to Best Buy and picks up the first (or cutest) one she sees. So when we decided we needed a space heater for our office I got to reading. She on the other hand could not wait and went to the store and bought a $15 heater. My fancier hundred dollar heater came in a few days later. What we found was that her $15 heater heated the room much quicker than mine. We pretty much always use hers now.
Let me guess the wife's one is forced air cooled and loud, based around a small dense PTC "ceramic" heating element. It just pulls 1500W continuously on the 110V line...
Your premium one is silent, wire wound? Maybe tower style with a slow big fan that swivels the air slow?
Then the premium one only pulls 1500w on start and goes down with heat immediately...
@@kitecattestecke2303 the small one will work harder than the big one, it will break sooner and more likely dangerous. The big one maybe will warm the room equally
But in the same room both of them will take the same power to work, the big one can't magically put more power from the thin air
So, the lesson, as far as intelligence goes, is "Always marry UP a level! You got the memo... she didn't! You win! 🤣
Soooooo0000000
Cuter
Is
Better?
OR
U made a good choice in matrimony*
My wife is always right in my house. Obviously your wife is always right in your house. With luck you have learned this lesson.
I've known these laws of thermodynamics for 45 yrs. I'm a retired journeyman who has done H.V.A.C . For 42 yrs as I went to school for HVAC . I'm so glad you took the effort and time to explain these physics ! I know I should have but only explained these concepts to all my friends . I laugh Everytime a commercial comes on saying a new invention has been created .Heat does not go away it just goes from a higher to a lower condition but is always in existence ! Again ,thank you for teaching these concepts to the public .
Maybe you can help me with this thought I had. Imagine you have two identical vehicles that weigh the same, and accelerate from 0-60 in the same time, however, one uses a small turbocharged engine and the other uses a big V8. Would they burn the same amount of fuel during that moment of acceleration?
@@mhess427 That is dependent on the engine efficiency. The net work done during acceleration is the same for both cars, but turbocharged engines are (usually) more efficient at extracting the chemical energy from fuel due to their cycles being less irreversible as they repurpose the kinetic energy of the exhaust gas as boundary work during compression (the most efficient processes are reversible processes but those are hypothetical processes that do not exist in real life just like ideal gasses.). Also, a big engine will have more internal friction than a smaller engine, adding to the fuel use.
@@mhess427 turbo engines are kind of unusual period as mentioned by the commenter before me they use the energy in the exhaust gases to compressor to force it into the combustion chamber. This increases the amount of air hence you require more fuel when you're in full Boost then you do when you're just cruising. Essentially the more boost use the more fuel you need to combust. There is a very strict fuel-air ratio in gasoline engines and no matter if the engine is turbocharged or not that fundamental ratio Remains the Same. So let's say you buy a turbocharged car and it's rated at 29 Mi to the gallon but you discover that you're only getting 24 miles to the gallon. The car is again brand new. The reason that you're not getting the rated mileage is that you have a heavy foot you're using too much throttle which is involving the turbocharger more so you need more fuel. Now I'm an older guy so I don't look to go as fast IDs precisely the speed limit no matter where I'm at. I've got a naturally heavy foot to be honest, so I put my cruise control on in most situations other than bumper-to-bumper traffic. I have 2019 Hyundai Elantra no turbocharger with dual clutch transmission. The EPA rating for the car is 37 miles per gallon. My style of driving around town which where I live could be up to 55 mph I get 38 miles to the gallon period and on the highway I get 42 miles per gallon. What I have noticed if I go 5 miles over 70 mph my gas mileage drops about 5 miles to the gallon. Essentially the way cars are tuned today by the automakers to meet EPA cab requirements their Peak efficiencies is going to be at 70 mph anyting over and efficiencies going to fall off dramatically. It also matters what gasoline you use. The argument that all gasoline is the same is halfway right. Refineries pump gasoline into pipelines to go all over the country. Once they go to the distribution points that's where they're combined with chemicals for each specific brand. Gasoline is one of the few things you can buy that you get exactly what you pay for period for example when I bought my 2019 Elantra I use shell regular gas. One day I was in a hurry and I went to a Wawa that was across the street and filled up. My gas mileage drop 25% within a few miles. I actually keep an eye on my gas mileage because that is your first indication that something may be wrong with your car. I know this is a very long reply and I hope you find it useful. My personal recommendation is Shell gasoline. I've been burning it in my car since 1983. And whenever I deviate from that I lose gas mileage. That is my personal experience driving probably in excess of 250 thousand miles to date.
I worked in IT at a large hospital system. Electric space heaters were illegal by City Code and hospital policy. There were many Nursing managers in office with cold feet. My solution was a private HP laser jet II old old printer. It was about 2000 watts with no power saving mode. My team laced it by their feet with the printer fan blowing hot air. Placing a power strip with off switch for when legs because too hot or when they went home.
Due to upgrades we had a few hundred of the old HP laser jet printer- heaters. In addition they could print confidential records with out going to the open group printer.
nice 😸
"when legs because too hot?". Wth?
There is something vaguely odd about this man, and I really appreciate that.
i think its bc he reads from a teleprompter
@@ijpg-fd7qn and he is digging in some conventional things really deep (except Lorentz law, seriously, we studied it at school)
Oh is that what you appreciate about him?
@@97marqedman It is not nearly the only thing I appreciate about his videos, but it certainly is icing on the cake.
نقطة نقطة Ok bro what the actual heck
Just buy the miracle heaters from China, which are labelled "150% efficiency" :)
They create new energy just like nuclear fusion! The Chinese have surely made that into a simple $4.50 home device by now.
ok racist
@@kelakakku half the time they're literally labelled in chinese, he's not being racist he's pointing out that the vast majority of those with bogus claims come from china as there's no law to stop them from BSing it in their own country then selling it to gullible americans.
@@alexphillips4325
People, please read the box or package. I want to know details, such as what type of battery does this device use. If it is not indicated or it is a non-standard battery, something other than AA or AAA or a standard 9-volt battery, then that tells me I probably should not buy it. It is poorly designed, it is probably junk.
Well at least some claims are obviously BS to people who actually know something about how that stuff works, and that is another reason not to buy it. They do not deserve the sale if they can not manage to represent their product honestly.
Obviously no mere electric heater can possibly produce 150% efficiency, unless it is using some radical new technology such as the NWO-suppressed free-energy technology, and if so, why in the world would they not boast about that also? Americans should not be so gullible.
Heat pumps are actually >100% efficient
I used to work at a hardware store that sold a wide selection of space heaters. People would ask me to make a recommendation, and I'd always tell them to get an oil-filled heater and a cheap box fan. Steady, quiet heat evenly dispersed throughout the space.
And then when summer rolls around, Hey! - You've already got a box fan!
the oil heater sure, but how is the box fan quiet lmao
@@foojub6907 Don't be like that. On low setting, the fan is quiet enough.
@@danielpittman889 I will be like that. A box fan even on low is not quiet.
I couldn't agree more! I have tried every configuration available and your idea is the best
@@foojub6907 Perhaps you have not run a box fan on low. Or possibly yours is faulty. Mine is very quiet on low.
Thanks for this video. I've recently seen some ads for these "miracle efficent space heaters" and been curious about how they work. Didn't make sense based on my relatively basic understanding of emergy transfer and thermodynamics but i was open ro leatning how they'd managed to take a space technology and make it affordable for the mass market. Thanks for clarifying that it is nothing more than marketing.
THANK YOU, mechanical engineer here and have tried to explain this to people. My poor sister fell for the "efficient Amish" heater..I have the $8.88 ones
The Amish heaters are way more aesthetically pleasing than the $8.88 Walmart one you have. It’s not “falling for” anything. It’s paying for the way something looks.
@@Hey_Jamie Is it really worth like $600 though when you're going to be just as warm either way??
@BenBenson Yea they look like shit, things look like they're sold on TV
Those Amish heaters are still a thing lol
Isn't an Amish heater a wood stove?
I live in a travel trailer in New Hampshire, and I have two heaters. One is a 1500W Lasko tall-and-skinny heater that oscillates. I picked this one because it has a remote control. I found a second one that is an oil-filled convective heater but is broken so that it's stuck on low and can't be turned off. I use the Lasko in the bedroom at night (nice to be able to control it without getting out of bed) and pull it into the kitchen during the day. I use the radiator when I'm away at work because it doesn't use much electricity and I just want to keep the inside of the trailer above freezing, which works well even in temperatures of 10 below. I have a fan that blows air through the fins and circulates the "warm" air very well. If it's really cold (25 below, yes I've seen it that cold) I'll run both heaters.
I've gone through a lot of heaters to see which one works the best (most are used that people give to me). I have a weather station that can also measure the inside temperature, and I can view the temperature graph on a web page. I take a heater and run it until the temperature levels out and then switch to a different one. After an hour, I can see if the inside temperature dropped, rose, or pretty much stay the same. If the temperature drops, that heater is toast. If it rises, the current heater gets replaced. Currently the oscillating Lasko is the best, keeping the temperature at least 10 degrees warmer than anything else I've tried. And no, I can't use a radiant heater because it would be a fire hazard in the small confines of the trailer.
One thing I have to do regardless of the heater is to place a fan near the ceiling aiming down. Heat rises so I have to push it down again to get a more even heating. In a house this isn't much of a problem, but in a travel trailer without an arctic package, it's a must. Back when I was stationed in the Army in Alaska, I had to work in a small shed to do weather balloon flights. The shed had an oil burning furnace and when running on 75 below days, it could get the air at the ceiling to about 150 degrees. Unfortunately, the air at the floor was below zero, and the air at desk height was barely above freezing. After I started working there, the engineer in me figured out a way to heat things up. I put a fan on the ceiling aiming down and the temperature became comfortable. Oil use in the heater went down substantially too. What once became the garbage job at that station became one of the best ones there.
Sorry for the large post. Thought you might find it interesting.
I just got a Lasko oscillating heater with a remote. Never heard of the brand before but I like it. The remote is super convenient
To the contrary, I thank you for the large post. Good info to know.
And that my friends is why I use a blow dryer to heat my house
lmao
why not....many of these are rated at 1500W...or more
Vacuuming works as well, they put off a fair amount of heat in a closed room.
Kimberlie Marie Box roomba ftw
A 1500watt blow drier?
I found your channel 6 years ago while I was in the military and I was addicted to watching your shows LOL you do a great job. Very informed and I have learned so much from you. Thank you.
This channel is great for the time of night when one would rather think about anything other than what normally clutters one's thoughts.
tell me about it
I didn't come here to be attacked wtf 😅
Like the heat death of the universe
Ah the intrusive thought fighter
Reading this at 3am while I should be sleeping and feeling a bit called out, thanks.
"...and eventually this leads to the heat death of the universe"
woa, that got dark really fast
Let's just get all the small space heaters and throw them in space duh
Well it is pretty much ensured that humanity will be extict before that happens (because the sun will run out of energy, our galaxy will collide with another galaxy and eventually run out of energy) and it's predicted to happen in 10^100 years which means it's not something you should worry about :)
and cold
Yeah well just our sun burns 5 million tons of hydrogen or 3.8 x 10³³ ergs, every single second and we only get 0.01% of that so pretty sure your puny electric heater isn't going to do anything significant.
Heat death of the universe 🎉
The last time I needed a space heater, I found out exactly what you just explained. I bought a small cheap one. Works just fine.
The problem I have with space heaters is their energy use! Prepare to spend 3x as much as running your furnace.
@@ceruleanc505 that's actually a good thing, can the energy source from your furnace converted to only light, or only movement?
Electricity is volatile, timewise hard to store and can replace all the other energy's easy... Fuel does not
@@ceruleanc505 EU now be like its 33% cheaper to use electricity instead of gas if you look at its price
@@captainheat2314 All Natural Gas users are up for extreme financial abuse starting now..
Just put your air conditioner in the window the other way around.
You just reinvented the heat pump heating and TC had videos about those
It:s funny cuz it's true!
😂
did you just solve global warming
Id argue the oil heater wins a few points for the popping sounds it makes as it heats up. Very comfy.
True
Can you please remind me what your pfp is from? I knew at one point but have forgotten so I’m out of the loop. There’s gotta be thousands upon thousands of folks who use it so I was curious. Thanks
Deus ex
@@crazydrummer181 it's JC, the main character you play as in the original Deus Ex from the far off year of 2000
@@burnin8able thanks
I spent 25 years in equipment rental and have had this basic conversation a thousand times! Thanks!
Technically, if a motor is bad enough, it can be an electric resistive heater
"every machine is a smoke machine if you operate it wrong enough"
A very noisy heater!
Vacuum cleaners touting 'a powerful 10 Amp motor'.
A paperclip poked into an outlet will draw 20 Amps, thus is much more powerful.
Hilariously, unless you completely block the axle, efficiency is back in the formula as the host predicted, being "wasted" on rotational momentum.
@@lorenzoboyd6889 paperclip draws more current but not for long-
thank you so much for these detailed clarifications. As I live in an old park home, the insulation is not the best and I often wondered whether I ought to buy one of these latest advertised heaters rather than relying on expensive bottled gas central heating. I already have an old oil heater so you put my mind at ease. 😊
They’re essentially short circuits with a fan behind them or something.
Well, more like a resistor with a fan behind it but I get the sentiment.
@@nickonastickable
@Gernot Schrader obviously you weren't actually trying
Csyk well its ac so...not really resistance, it would be impedance
@@Thebadbeaver9 👍🏽
I watch this channel every now and then and found this video while I was looking for a bigger space heater. I think I'll stick with my current "small room" 1500w unit Thank you for helping me save some cash.
Deadmeme64 You can't go bigger than 1500 watts in the US because of the feeble voltage. Plug two in one room and you're likely to trip the breaker.
@@spencerwilton5831 however, if you have a single plug on its own circuit, it can easily be changed to 240. :O
Thank you for putting quotes around "digital" on that heater.
Found you at the right time Brother, thank you greatly for your vids on this subject. Currently been researching the best heaters for the house here in the UK and you've answered many of the sceptical questions I had. Cheers buddy!
Just play Crysis 3 on the highest settings on your pc, you ain't even gotta buy one of these.
Actually, after Crysis required too much from PCs, and only so many people could play those; the next two games were made increasingly softer for the machines they were released for.
In other words, they were released for machines made around the time the game came out, but not high end ones per say.
You know, to sell more games.
That’s still a thing?
That's how I survived a broken central heating for a week, just played lots of games.
@@rogerwilco2 I augmented my poor room heating by overclocking and gaming for few weeks too during winter
Used my PC for crypto mining and supplement heating around the time of the massive spike crypto had. Even on -20f days my room was a comfortable 64 degrees (I live in a colder climate, 64 is pretty cozy). There were times when it was in the 30s where I actually had to open my windows to keep my room from being too hot.
Funnily enough, during the crypto craze there were actually tiny houses for sale in the Netherlands heated solely by cryptominers. It was actually a fairly brilliant idea.
I can't believe I sat through a fifteen minute video about space heaters. This was a lot easier to watch than I thought it would be.
All the waste heat from my servers is highly effective. One Pentium D processor will give those heaters a run for there money.
AND THE NOISE!!!
Forget the server for me. My PC with the door closed just watching these videos do a very effective job. I get the waste heat from both my TV and my PC tower and I can comfortably heat the room to a balmy 25 C and even higher if I decide to do a gaming session. Yay I love double duty items. Also though it takes a little longer with the efficiency of computer components now compared to when I was back in university (2006-2010) and watching videos all night with my AMD Athlon 64 computer.
I'm pretty sure my 830 turned my blue board brown from heat.
@@sarah1390 Is your cpu cooler properly seated?
My PC and monitor give off so much heat that I actually open my window during the winter so that it's not sweltering in here.
I've been watching your channel for a while and watched this 5y later. Like the format.
One point I want to make is that not everyone perceives comfort in the same way and maybe that's where the efficiency argument is made. With regards to objective measurements it's going to be the same.
For example. I feel warm in a 15 degrees room with warm radiators and cold in a 21 degrees warm room with cold radiators. That's in Celsius. I think I react to the radiation more than other people.
For this reason I'm considering infrared heaters as a supplement to the main radiators based installation.
You present information in a way my ADHD brain seems to love
omg same
Only had to playback one time
SAME!
Ah, the club. Yes, one of the few tech channels where I don't need Methylphenidate to get through 20 minutes of video :D
Another club member checking in. Good times, good times.
I think he is ND himself because my autistic adhd brain loves him as well... just my thoughts on it anyway
"And eventually this leads to the heat death of the universe 🎉"
Haaaaaa. That's quality humor right there.
Also truth. I'm now existentially mortified.
Don't worry you won't be here by then. consider worrying about something that could actually happen like getting killed by stray bullets or lightning.
Nick C I know! I loved the reference 😂
Nick C yeah that was funny as hell
@aud_io What are you talking about. Heat death occurs once all the black holes have evaporated and there is only uniform dispersal of energy across the entire universe, work will be impossible (and there would be nothing to do the work anyway). Intelligent life will necessarily all be gone before heat death of the universe occurs, because an intelligent being is a big clump of energy.
Who would win
Sleeping at 4 AM
vs
Watching an almost 20 minute long video on space heaters (while in the middle of summer)
Who needs sleeping anyway
At 4 am you've lost anyway.
omg you're me
I literally read this comment at 4 pm. So now I'm confused. I think I'll watch it again when I'm sitting at my desk at work at 4am tomorrow to keep me awake lol.
Perfect time to buy one, they're probably cheapest in summer
Rewatching this video during the cold season and it's a great video. Would love a follow-up video that also discusses the personal heating efficiency (and safety) of space heaters compared to heating pads/blankets.
I've tried and tried to explain to my mother that they are all basically the same. Like talking to a wall. Everyone seems to fall for the advertising gimmicks.
It seems, that people are only willing to learn when they desire to learn something. Using my self as a example (A poor one, I know) but I have often been described as a brick wall when someone is trying to teach me something. On the flipped side, I *LOVE* watching 'educational' content (Often poorly researched and explained, but not always) and talking to people to learn information. It is an interesting dichotomy. It makes me wonder; is there is a method to encourage someone or people as a whole, to be willing to learn with a greater intensity, or have the desire more often?
@@HowardDPVT we study this stuff occasionally, in psychology, and there's loads of info in educational psychology
@@HowardDPVT This is why I'm a firm believer in teaching how to self-teach above anything else. If you learn how to self-teach, you will learn forever. Schools will NEVER do this because it goes against their whole existence. If everyone could self-teach, people would become extra aware of how bullshit formal education often unfortunately is.
School also hyper-focuses on teaching you impractical BS. As an analogy, they'd teach you everything about a wrench EXCEPT how to use it. *_Waste. Of. Time._*
I had a hell of a time convincing my fiancee that 1500W is 1500W, it doesn't matter if we buy the jumbo ultra fuck you big or the one that's the size of my shoe. The only difference is the size of the fan in it.
People are stupid. And that is what advertising relies on.
If more then 5-10% of actual smart people were around, we wouldn't get BLASTED with dumbfck comercials, because they'd instantly knew what is going on and the farytales were useless !
I like the calm “that’s actually a good idea” as he looks over the outlet thermostat. Very Wholesome.
Lets look at the comments. Oh. They're 1500 watts.
WHat?
Heaters gonna heat!
1.5 killer whats
Yeah, in Europe the comments go up to 2.5kW.
@Ethan Ansell Calm down, Ethan. Christ.
I love it when facts and knowledge are used to dispel nonsense. I am quite happy with your good RUclipss😊
Keep up the great work!
I used s very cheap heater for an entire room. It took a while, but thankfully it worked!
"They" will yry to sell us dreams. Thats for politicians and religious leaders to do!
I bought a space heater that had this safety feature. It would quit working if tipped over. Great, but the heater quit working after just a few months. So I took it apart to see what was wrong. That safety feature was a very simple relay that was normally on. Tipping it over would turn off the relay. The entire power of the heater went through this relay; which I consider a design flaw. The relay was so cheap and chintzy that regular use of the heater melted the relay down. Once I engineered my own relay - much beefier than the original, it worked again. That was 15 years ago and it's still in use every winter.
But because the manufacturer used a 50 cent part instead of a $1.50 part, the heater went from 15 year life cycle, to less than 4 months.
Next, I think you should go shopping for vacuums and explain to the world why vacs rated in amps is meaningless.
It was prob designed to fail
Engineered your own relay? That would thousands if done properly. I would just look at the specs of the old and buy an off the shelf better quality relay..(end sarcasm)💩
@@broderp It's cheaper to use 24Ga steel and a copper slug to replace the existing relay arms. All parts scrounged from my garage and given from a local metal fab shop. Cost to me: $0. Now go and try to spec a proprietary relay and buy your off the shelf replacement for $0 and let me know how that works out for ya.
It's a design decision to reduce liability and risk of litigation. If the relay fails and it tips over, it's better to let the heat melt it and cut off power. If the relay doesn't melt, then it might start a fire and burn the house down. It's a choice between having a product that fails prematurely and losing a few customers, or getting sued for millions because somebody died.
I had one that where you tip it over it stopped and also if it got too warm.
I took it apart and cleaned out the dust... Worked after that just fine.
Dude, I absolutely love what you do. Informative, meticulous, and FUNNY. Thanks so much for the knowledge and laughs. You're a treasure. Cheers!
My space heater also plays Minecraft and Mines Bitcoin.
Lol
AMD?
That is how I described my 55" plasma screen. Very reliable, but it generated a lot.Of heat. Cat loved it during the winter.
Ewwww bitcoin.
Thanks for fucking over the computer component market just so you can get richer.
I hope your profits tank more than they have been and you are left with nothing.
I bet its heat output is a fraction of 1500 W.
Thank you. As a retired HVAC design engineer, finally something about heating on RUclips that actually makes sense!
Can you expose the Printer Ink Scam next?
I have an HP printer that need a cartridge change twice a month. What a gyp!!
Get a Epson eco tank printer. You can print thousand upon thousands of pages without needing a refill. I went three years without needing a refill on ink.
Is it really a scam, or is it a marketing model? They lose money on the printers to make it up with the ink/toner.
@@stevelux9854
I often wondered about that ...
Correct me if I am wrong, but I have always got the impression that, long term, a planned maintenance contract for x equipment is often more valuable, and thus generally generates more revenue than buying x in, and of, itself, especially if, like most lazy people like me, whom has taken out domestic household appliance insurance, you don't think about chopping and changing your insurer that often, if at all.
So whilst decent printers are expensive, depending on how long they actually last, and depending how many ink cartridges you use (especially given their tiny volume ...), it doesn't take that long to wind up paying out as much in cartridges as you did for the initial printer ...
And just to make it worse, the cartridges that come with the printer are not always filled to capacity ... so buying a new printer everytime you need new cartridges is no longer as cost saving it once was ...
My understanding from a relative of mine that used to work at HP, is that HP sells printers at cost - that is at no profit or depending on the market at a slight loss; just so they can sell higher quantities of the ink, toner, supplies, parts, service and extended warranties which is where they make their real profit. HP is a big enough mover in the printer business where other manufacturers had to follow or their sales would take a massive hit.
As a person that's lived in very cold climates in motorhomes and trailers I've tried everything. For electric heaters the radiator style oil heaters definitely work better for keeping an area at a constant temp.. but none of them compare to a good woodstove.
The image that comes to mind is a car traveling at a moderate high speed on the highway to conserve energy as opposed to one that has to stop repeatedly, then burn more fuel to get where it's going. That's why highway fuel economy ratings are always better. "Slow and steady wins the race." It's fizzicks!
@@ItchyKneeSonYou'll still need to take a dump or drain your bladder!😂😂
Oil heating is AWFULLY expensive! I am referring to main heating not the oil space heaters.
@@leechjim8023 it's a sealed electric element heater that's filled with oil. It doesn't burn oil to create heat.
@@FINNIUSORION I was referring to oil furnace heating.
remember to also use an old thin extension cord to get even more heat out of the heater
Added bonus! The thin extension cord acts as a fuse!
And a 5w fuse.
@@Mrfort what is a 5w fuse?
@KevinT Creations ༼ つ ◕_◕ ༽つ YA Very Very True ッ ッ ッ
haha although that's humorous it's not true unless the extension cord catches on fire
There is a lot I didn't know about space heaters! This is such a useful video. The correction regarding Watts being a unit of power made me happy. Another correction: heaters that don't blow air around (such as the oil heaters) actually do not spread the heat via convection into the room. Convection is a movement of the air (or any fluid) and if it were happening in the room, you would notice it. If you place your hand or face right over the heater (not touching!), you will feel a small wind, which feels like heaven. If you look closely edgewise at the top of the heating unit, you might see like a boiling motion of nearly transparent air. Convection is indeed happening there, where the heater is putting its heat fast into the surrounding air. But further out into the room, the transport of energy is slower and happens by diffusion. Diffusion is a creeping of molecules accross the room. You won't feel that as air movement, and it's slow. It is the reason why heaters that don't blow air around the room have such an inertia getting the room warmed up. The unit itself warms up pretty quickly. Now if you'll excuse me, I think my bathroom warmed up.
Basically "efficiency" for a space heater is the same thing as "inefficiency" for anything else.
The second law of thermodynamics wins again.
It always does...
Damn Laws!
Google peltierelement. You can get more heat energy per eletrical energy. It doesnt break the second law. But you can use the eletrical energy to move heat from a to b and thx to the second law all the work will end in heat. In some circumstances you can get 1,8 watt heat energy per 1 watt eletric energy
It's one reason why anything labeled "eco ____" gets put at the bottom of my list of things to buy: it's typically marketing over physics, arrived at by tinkering with evaluation metrics or... just flat out lying. And also, they tend to not last as long.
@@flinch622 For things like computer monitors, there's the "energy star" sticker on them. They usually refer to features that turn themselves off automatically if they haven't gotten used in a little while.
Been trying to tell this stuff to people for years, before seeing your vid. Glad to know someone pays attention to basic math, and thermal physics.
But not to physics on the electrical side.. If you take a 1500W PTC heating element force cooled and connected to 110V it pulls always the same wattage. If the fan fails it will burn itself that's why by design there's an overheat switch.
The wire wound type heaters go down on wattage after first few minutes even with cooling, so a 1500W element might pull less under operation!!
If you buy the wire wound self regulating heater element with 1500w from China you will notice that it pulls 4000W and more on start up, like a dead short until it reaches a higher temperature and resistance rises to stop current flow..thus less power draw and radiation of heat into the room.
Force cooling needs to be extreme high pressure and volume on wire wound resistive to reach the efficiency of the dense PTC elements with same wattage, radiant constant power wise
"dishonest marketing departments" - that's like "redundant redundancy"
"Department of redundant tautology division"
You can say _that_ again!
We're going to have to screen this comment at the department of redundancy department.
I always preferred a department of redundant contingency, myself. ;o)
No because redundancy can serve a purpose as a backup but if the redundancy itself is redundant, then
Had I seen THIS VIDEO first, I wouldn't have wasted an hour and a half listening to the overwhelming misinformation from the others! Super thanks for giving me what I needed to know to finally make an informed decision. AWESOME and even entertaining, my technician son and I will be revisiting over supper!
That was way more interesting than I thought it was going to be. Well done you!
The one thing I took away from this video: How many hairdryers do I need to heat a small room and what brand do you recommend? Hahaha!
Just one does the trick. The Ferrari one is pretty fast.
for how many minutes ?
@@devforfun5618 At what temperature?
Really, that's what you took away from this video..............
I mean i'm just thinking if they are made for 1500W then surely you can do a tweak to get more an extra 1800W out of it............
@@johndorian4078 You can't tweak more resistance from a heating coil, you can only bump voltage up to increase wattage. So unless you're running it from a generator that has a voltage drop adjustment, or feel like entirely replacing the heating coil with something homemade from several salvage heaters, there is no tweaking to be had.
"Please leave your complaints below." This man RUclipss.
Watching a year late - great info!
It boosts engagement, doncha know.
An overlooked aspect concerns the multiple watt option. Multiple heaters on the same circuit breaker are problematic if all are 1500w. Older homes are impacted by this.
Bringing me back to my days in the Home Depot electrical department... Great job; saving people from themselves, one customer at a time.
the first few videos i saw of this channel were early videos. idk how many had this experience, but at first watching them felt cringy, he hadn't fully worked out the story telling part of videos. but the information was so good i kept coming back. now it feels like he has matured as a content creator and still gives that good and accurate information while having enough personality to keep it interesting. idk if anyone feels the same, but its always nice to see people grow.
Shut up
The one advantage I found to the oil filled heaters, when I was living in a house that had been damaged by fire, gutted, and little no insulation, was that on cold nights I could toss my blanket over the heater and it helped to keep me warm. The surface temp got warm, very warm even, but never hot enough to actually catch anything on fire. (I of course would never suggest anyone do this, but. it worked for the very unique situation I was in at the time.)
For my daytime activities the forced air building up under my desk, and blowing across me was much more refreshing and warming.
When I was very poor one year and only had an oil filled heater, I sat on it most of the time.
When I was a kid, my Mom would put one of those oil heaters in the bathroom during the coldest months. I would get up every morning, turn the heater on, then throw my clothes for school over the heater before eating breakfast. It would make everything nice and toasty by the time I had to get ready for school.
Oh for sure. In that sense, they seem a bit safer. Also, you could say that that other heaters aren't necessarily quite 100% efficient but very close to it
The reason why I say that is because if it has a fan, you've lost a tiny amount to noise. If it has lighting you've lost a tiny amount to light. It's probably a bit pedantic to say that they're probably like 97 or 99% efficient which isn't something you'd notice ofc.
My personal preference is deffo oil filled radiators because of how the heat lingers after being turned off, and tbh being fairly safe in comparison to the other ones where they can instantly set alight if you're not careful
I’ll add; in a power outage the oil heater has a good bit of heat stored and the room will cool off much more slowly (hopefully in time for the power to get fixed 🤪).
@@waqasahmed939 won't light and noise be converted into heat anyways?
@3:04 - it will directly heat you unless you are trying to sleep lying down, then it heats the wall next to you or the ceiling
I love that you point out that the fan actually adds all its consumed power to the room as heat. I've always tried to point that out to people when they think that a fan "cools a room off" no, you're adding 20 watts of heat to the room, you're just assisting evaporative cooling and preventing warm air from your body heat from accumulating around your body by being in a breeze, but the room air will get warmer by adding fans.
It might increase heat loss through walls by mixing the air around
Interesting. So cooling the hundreds of watts of electric lights used to work on the inside of an aluminum fuselage on a wide body jet with hurricane fans ain’t gonna cool it down much, will it?
@@TimpBizkit Or achieve the opposite effect when it's hotter on the outside than inside. But it's probably immesurable anyways.
@@cme98 Unless your bedroom is made of aluminum or another heat conductive material, generates a lot more heat than the surrounding air, and the air being pushed around by the fans is circulated away from your heat generating, conductive room, no fans will not cool down your room.
@@cme98 Depends on if it's sucking in cooler air from the outside, exhausting the hot air to the outside, or just moving air around inside a sealed room.
I know you were trying to be an asshole with your comment, but ignorance doesn't really make you look good
Oh my goodness an outlet thermostat. I've thought this for years having a basement bedroom and dealing with heaters for ever. Thanx.
he made that company a lot of money
@@Raeilgunne ironically the best product shown in this video has 0 marketing and none of us know about it.
I have used an outlet thermostat in my greenhouse for years. It's great.
@@Raeilgunne Thank you for not saying _alot_ of money, as Alot is a town in India.
Hey, man! Props for locking the exposure during the whiteboard sequence!
Glad someone else noticed this.
This was extremely educational and informative and I thank you for your time making this! Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays! Btw Ive had a $20 mini heater for almost 20 years and it still works perfectly for my needs. So he is definitely correct about price not always making a difference in ability to heat a room.
Don't forget district heating. Very important in places where heating is no luxury item. It can use heat from power stations to heat homes.
Ooh, yes! I wish this were common in the States. Such a great way to capture what would otherwise be wasted.
I've never heard of district heating but it sounds pretty niffty for people who live close to power stations.
@@TechnologyConnections So what you call "district heating" is what we in Germany know as "Fernwärme" (lit. far (away) heat)? That's what warms me right now. We get a pipe of hot water into the house (and a flow-back pipe as well, it's strictly a closed circuit; and an enerhy-meter has temperature feelers into both pipes). It's produced by the city, though I'm not entirely certain in what kind of plant - anyway, safer than burning something locally, and presumably, more efficient, too. Outside, the pipes are below-ground and carry heavy insulation.
@@GaiaGoddessOfTheEarth District heating can distribute heat from any centralised heating source. Any thermal power station can be a heating source.
@@TechnologyConnections District heating is how i've lived over half of my life. It comes from the local chemical plant and research facilities using their waste heat from processes and energy production to warm up our houses. They do, sadly, have to fire up the small coal plant when it hits -25C but it is in quite short periods. I love it... It is stable, steady heat source and since the radiators line up every wall, usually below windows, the heat will spread nicely and evenly. I just happened to set up a thermometer in the ceiling level an hour ago (it was eBay package delivery day :) ) , it is showing 24C and my floor is 22.3C (i live on top of a bomb shelter, the vault below is quite cool all year round... another common feature in a Finnish apartment building..).
Many forget that you need to circulate air also in the winter time... One does not need a large fan for diffusing air, even a 120mm PC fan can do it if used strategically... Electric passive radiators are maybe the best but alone they tend to create that heat "bubble" and either are glowing red hot or are barely warm.
thank you for making it nice and clear about the heaters, I have been wondering for some time and getting nowhere with unbiased information, now i feel more confident when looking for my heater.
The fact I can tell what stores you went to just based on the Sale tags tells me I worked in retail too long....
@tan j maz First was 100% Menards. Second was WalMart. Third I think was Target based on the "conveyable" decal that looks similar to others I've seen there. But it's the only one I'm not 100% sure on.
Menards, Walmart, and Ace. I wouldn't know the Home Depot tags.
You can always tell WalMart because they’re always out of everything you need. I don’t know how they stay in business.
Yep, first one was the ‘nards for sure
Thanks, I had observed that the small forced air heaters put out more heat than the oil heaters yet they had the same power rating and you explained that it was the way the thermostat is situated on the oil heater that limits its output. Reminds me of a similar problem at the other end of the spectrum with the sensor for the thermostat for the Galanz refrigerator.
I bought mine because it was a $60 digital thermostat heater that I got on sale for $10 in the spring. Plus it has a 750 watt mode so the circuit isn’t always loaded. I’ve also noticed the thermostat is also effected by humidity. I like a warm bathroom when I shower. The heater set at 86f/30c will never stop running with dry air. When showering and the humidity is 100%, it’ll cut off at 75ish. 🤔
Thats most likely because the humidity takes heat away from the heater faster since the air now has more mass and capacity for heat, so the internal thermostat never gets triggered.
@@willhaney96
This is because 86°F in dry air feels equivalent to 75°F in humid air.
Water is way more effective in heat transfer and dispersion. This is why we use ice cubes to cool drinks and water in car radiator to cool it down.
Dry air is very poor at heat transfer and dispersion. Think metal tin coffee cups or large ice chest. They have an air void in between that doesn't allow heat transfer to occur. This Will be even more effective if they create a empty vacuum in the air void.
@@Mrkevi123 Quick note, don't use water in your radiator, use coolant (aka "antifreeze"). It's water with additives that lower its freezing temperature (sure) and, as I understand it, resist electrolysis (somehow. I'm not a chemist, nor am I a particularly smart guy), rust, and increase the boiling point (which is already increased because your coolant system is under pressure, not unlike a pressure cooker).
Consider all of this information hearsay from an unreliable source
@@willhaney96 Humid air is actually less dense (look up the molar mass of air vs. water). The 3D water vapor molecules do have more heat capacity, specific and volumetric, than the diatomic oxygen and nitrogen molecules, but that means it takes more energy to heat up a volume of water vapor, or humid air, than dry air to a specified temperature.
@@Kungfujoe1110 use what your auto manufacture says to use. That's about 50% ethylene glycol and 50% water.
After watching this video I patted my cheap heater "so I did good to pick you"
Who needs a heater when you have a computer workstation.
My heater sucks...
Wait, I forgot to launch far cry.
thats how my gaming pc is
@@Exis247 LOL :)
Or a water distiller....
I do that. Literally. (My room is on the top floor of my house, so it get’s very cold in there during the winter, but to combat that I can leave a game running (like HOI4) and it will keep my room warm, so at night my computer acts as a space heater lol)
Bravo! I've known this for a long time, my Dad being in HVAC. I try to inform others when the opportunity presents itself. sometimes in the aisles of stores. One woman was particularly appreciative.
Just get three 500-watt halogen work lights. Install them overhead.
Not only do you get heat, you also get quality lighting that feels like the summer sun 🌞
What if i have very sensitive eyes?
@@mindbreak666 then you get the added benefit of wearing glasses, it's a totally trendy fashion statement
@@theoledicktwist6247 call me when they sell shades you can use rolling in the couch/bed and general lazyman uses without it digging in your face...
Circadian rythm is overrated, i know, but doing nothing indoors is the best winter sport ever, and bright lights don't help much.
@@mindbreak666,
Google "goggles."
@@favoritemustard3542 i guess you don't rest on your side much
Why am I watching a video on space heaters when its officially summer 😂
Because you are four months late
IKR? And I'm in FL so I don't use these anyway! Just wanted to see what he said. 1500W is the most you can pull from one standard 120V wall socket. He may say that in the vid, I haven't finished watching it.
🤣🤷♂️
because you were watching the one on portable air conditioners and this was in the recommended videos?
This office cold as a mo-fo
Just fill a room with Sunbeam toasters! You'll be warm and you'll have toast!
"Oh god that's the 26th one.."
Are they Automatic Beyond Belief?
You'll be very toasty ;)
I feel like my brother would have an easy time eating it all too...
Yes, especially when the paper insulation finally wears away...
This video just confirms exactly what I already knew through experience. One thing I couldn’t figure out though was why one 220 wall heater that barely put out enough heat to keep the house above freezing cost me twice as much as running 7 1500 watts and 1 400 watt heaters nearly constantly in the same house. My power bill was almost $700 with the wall heater and it was around $250-$300 with all the space heaters.
"Winter means cold, and cold means sadness." Truer words were never spoken.
Actually for some persons like me it's the exact opposite. Hot weather makes me anxiety and depression and makes me feel irritable and angry, especially when it continues on for days and weeks on end. Cold weather makes me feel much more contented, happy, relaxed and in good spirits.
That's what your meds are for!
man all you millennials are depressing AF
Coming from northern Australia I can't wait for 'Winter'. The only thing I want the Sun to do in Summer is to go away.
Truer words of falsehood. Go back to hell you flame demon!
As a fellow pedant, I appreciate your level of pedantry and it's why I subscribe. The US-aspect of your videos demonstrates some interesting quirks that I don't find in the UK. *I also love the tweed jacket - the world needs more tweed.* PS: A suggestion for a future video - ceiling heating. My house has ceiling heating throughout the upper floors, which is rare for the UK, but it's incredibly cost effective, efficient, and provides controls for each room (rare in the UK). The usual response is 'but doesn't that ignore the rules of physics?' 😄
This was a super common installation in the US in the 60s and 70s. AFAIK, the answer to the physics question was "run the ceiling fan"
@@zoomzabba452 Really? I wasn't aware. Do you have any examples you could point to? Was the system the same as this website's explanation (same system I have, different manufacturer) www.auroraenergy.com.au/help-and-advice/heating-guide/ceiling-heating
Cheers.
@@piers389 Similar. I think it was an aluminum heating wire embedded in rubber with a mylar (plastic and foil) reflection layer on top and a fiberglass layer on top of that. Essentially, the system was supposed to, like the one you shared, heat the ceiling, which would, in turn, heat the air to a lower and lower height. The most obvious flaw being the fact that if all the hottest air is at the ceiling no nature convection can occur. This is where in-floor heating systems are superior, to in ceiling at the least.
@@piers389 www.houzz.com/discussions/2457866/radiant-ceiling-heat-electric-c1967
I love your backdrop. Best one in any RUclips channel I’ve seen