diesel heater 200% more efficient update 1
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- Welcome to our new Homestead video.
In this video we like to show you what we changed at the diesel heater
in our workshop to make it safe and more efficient.
more heat for free .
How it turns out you can find out now by watching this video.
Have fun by watchin it.
#dieselheater #cheapheater #shopheater
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pretty ingenious way to gather a lot more heat by running it through the radiatior. Great idea.
AS LONG AS YOU FIT A CARBON MONOXIDE ALARM 🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯💩💩💩
The condensate isn’t gonna form on the heater side, it’s gonna form on the coolest and lowest point in the exhaust system which would likely be the bottom of the radiator nearest the outlet going to the outside.
Exactly what I was gonna say the condensate part that you built should be on the part that goes through the floor
@@unclebill5170 Have an open jar outside where it's cold, with the gases exhausting into it.
@@sarkybugger5009 What he has proved is that no condensate occurs before the old water radiator. Any forming in the radiator and going to the outside is immaterial.
@@marsfoot1237 Except that the temp on the outlet is below freezing so if he runs it too long the gasses turning to water will become ice will block the outlet and knacker the heater when fumes cannot flow away freely
@@googlecontrolledI guess warm enough to prevent that, though wise to keep an eye on it
Those pipes look better than my arteries for sure !
Condensation occurs when the exhaust gases cool and the water vapor condenses out of the exhaust gas. You have the trap at one of the hottest locations thus no water. You should not have a problem with your setup since any water that collects at the bottom of radiator has a way out without blocking the outflow gases. I am also working on exhaust gas heat extractor for my heater. Don't like wasting that heat to the outdoors.
this is absolutely brillant design, a must build !
These heaters should never be ran off just a power supply, because if there's a power failure the heater won't be allowed to shutdown properly. Always connect at a battery. Then if needed you can connect a trickle charger or battery maintainer.
agreed i run a home built ups have frequent power issues and it can cause issues to power down during heating both in residue and post-burn heatsoak overheating
Excellent video with some very interesting test results! Thanks for sharing.
keep em coming ,you guys ROCK !
Brilliant!
To get a condensation trap to work it has to be cold 🥶 but the way its set up is that the heater is warming up the glass jar so any vapour will be running to the cold radiator,
Try putting glass jar in ice 🧊 in a bucket, or run a peltier element, but they draw current !
There will be no condensation where you placed the trap. Condensation takes place where hot air meets a cold surface if any where it will be condensing at the out let.
That is correct, I put it only there because a lot of our viewer left comments at the last video that there is build up candensation what can not happend because the temperatur ther is way to hot for condensation.
check out our new Diesel heater video you will be surprised ruclips.net/video/m6chyDrsHaA/видео.html
For a basic water trap to work the gas must be at dew point temperature. This is exactly the same principle as with an air compressor. Hot air will NOT condense out above dew point. So basically as it is, nothing will collect in the jar. Also ALL of the exhaust gas must go through the trap to remove the maximum amount of moisture this type of trap can extract. The best way for this to work would be to initially run the exhaust down/direct to a separate small heat exchanger at the point where the exhaust exits the building, then run the flow back to the original radiator entry point. That way the moisture will condense out in the radiator, but not freeze at the exit point from the building as it is kept hot.
Very good job!
Great idea
I'm going to use some flexible dryer duct and put it around an extended exhaust (I already have both) and run a small DC fan at the bottom of the heater where the exhaust starts and split it off before it goes outside. I should be able to nearly double my heat output from 1 heater depending on the CFM of the fan. Easy and cheap way to increase output.
I run mine off an old laptop power-supply that chucks out 12v - have run it that way for months now with no issues - saves mucking about with batteries. Just in case that helps anyone looking to power one of these heaters.
Be careful.. if you suffer a ‘power outage’ the heater will not shut down slowly .. with a power cut the internal fan will stop immediately and you could fry the main pcb or worse
@@peterpauldonoghue7024 Myth - have to say. The sons have turned off the power to mine several times by hitting the wrong switch when doing other stuff - never had any effect. Fires right back up when I finish rolling my eyes & go turn the power back on. Nothing fried whatsoever.
How do you rate the fuel cost vs the temp/comfort in your shop?
Probably hard to compare but do you have rhe impression it is rather an expensive or a cheap way of heating?
13:15
Could you show us if there is condensate coming out of the lower radiator exit?
Keep the battery. When you get a power failure, the room will fill up with exhaust smoke from the air inlet filter. You'll have to open up windows and doors, lose all your heat to get that stench out of your living space.
Depends where you live. Never had power outages where I live and only use the power supply now although I do have a UPS attached to that now, just in case. The cool-down cycle serves two purposes, 1) To cool the heater down 2) to burn off excess fuel in the burn chamber and leave it dry enough so there isn't clouds of white smoke when its next started up. As always with these heaters, don't run waste veg or engine oil through them at any ratio. It shortens the life of the burn chamber (sometimes within a day) and any savings lost to time spent replacing parts and cleaning.
you will not get water here as it is to hot it will only form where it is cooled down aka the bottom of the radiator
Your NOT going to get the condensation that way, it need to be near the end!
How long will it run off one battery untill u need to charge it again
Depends on the size of battery
Some kind of ceramic pipe outlet that goes to the outside would stop the exhaust pipe acting like a cold magnet when the heater is not on..
You should install the trap an the cold end of the radiator.. where it is uuuuuhm cold...
what if you put a smaller radiator , like small car or motor bike boxed it up and made ducting so heater outlet blows through it
duct ==< rad >== duct= =heater
if that makes sense
maybe a company could make a modern type of heater the main unit simply plugs into, and the exhaust outlet is the same as the main unit..something less bulky than the cast iron ones..
You'll probably find that air quality meter isn't actually telling the truth and doesn't actually measure pm2.5, or CO or other details. At best it has a small hydrocarbon detector and makes up the other details. That's what mine did. I got a separate CO monitor and an Ikea monitor for hydrocarbons and particulates.
Correct, its garbage as tested on youtube
Ikea cheap vindriktning is also not that good.
@@HjuvikLabs vindriktninh is good enough for me. Green=ok, anything else=check what's wrong. And at $13 I can't even get a pm2.5 sensor for that. I checked it against a calibrated pm2.5 detector so I'm happy.
@@davidbalfour3390 If my family's life depends on knowing the air quality, I'm happy to spend more than $13.
I always run off a battery when heating garage as if there's a Power out the heater can cook diesel in a sudden shut down
Just put the hot exhaust at the bottom port of the radiator....any potential condensation will literally be blow out and then dried by thw hot gases..
Where is the 200% more efficient time stamp?
Could you get more heat out of the radiator if you reverse the flow
NO
100%+200% more is 300%? 3x original power?
Its too bad the exit of the radiator is not on the bottom right. Then the hot gases would be flowing all the way through the unit instead of only heating the one side.
So why do diesel cars/trucks now have "emission control" systems?
Cause its a scam.
I worry about the heating components that are Aluminium and others giving off gases of heavy metals in the air. They can cause Neuralogical diseases..Is there and metering of those as well,any way to check it?
Black pipe should have been used instead of galvanized pipe.
I use a xbox 360 power supply when not using battery's.
I set my power supply at 14v
have found a reasonable drop in amperage at 13.6 to 14.4 volt on mine
-12.47 amps? Were you lazy to switch the connectors? Of course it's not 40Watts. Many people buy a transformer of at least 300 Watt for these heaters.
When you burn down your place with that piece of chinese crap, don't expect your insurance company to pay up. You voided that option the minute you hooked it up.
Which is why you hear of this happening all the time after millions of these heaters being sold 🙄