Видео

It is still working with no problems absolut perfect no issues at al

@dsfarmns2823 So the pipe going on an upward angle really doesn't make any difference on these little heaters so I'm not going to be nervous about it and just install it that way worst case I am out of 130 bucks. 😂

@@tommygun5vsrocky where do you think is the problem ?

​@@dsfarmns2823the manual said don't point exhaust upward only horizontal or down will ruin efficiency of heater also putting soot in Burn chamber from condensation and bend in pipe that's why I was nervous about going up with a pipe and Everytime people comment it's so bad to do that but I seen you and others put it upward and so far no problems so I am thinking it's does not hurt it and maybe without a rad it's a issue but with a rad it's fine love to see a video on this if piping it upward really hurts anything at all like efficiency of the heater longevity of heater due to too much soot in chamber being built up overtime. I would think if it was so so bad your burn chamber covered with soot so bad it's coming out the glow plug. 😂 Thanks for the reply and I think you did a great job with the heater.

No more than that heater will be used, it will take 20 years for the exhaust to eat thru that schedule 40 galvanized pipe.

@ that means It will last longer than I have maybe left of my live 😃time

What’s a better tape to use

you are welcome

nu ,se va face condens si se umple cu apa caloriferul , asa am patit eu

The shop is 6inch above a concreate slab and open at both ends so there is a very good vetilation, the foor is made of a layer of plywood and a layer of woodchip board as well the hohle in the floor is sealed with rock wool. I would say the chance to win in the lotery is higher than fumes or co2 come up.

It's an easy fix just hang the heater in the rubber mount with a cable tie so it doesn't vibrate through the housing

You can buy a nearly silent pump for about $15, they just all come with the worst quality ones.

couldn't smell anything its still intact and works great so far

@@dsfarmns2823 Wow, that's really surprising.

@@dkeith45 dude, they are making teflon frying pans, this plastic stands about 180-200'C no probs.

Auto ventilator, even with adjustable electric fan would be perfect

If you use a EGR cooler with water pump then fill radiator up job done much better heat transfer and efficient

That would be good to know!

How would he get sick it's plumbed out

@calupjensen4233 carbon monoxide is heavier than air it has a tendency to pool in

In areas you least expect and then seep back into your home. Diesel heaters are like diesel generators you need to be careful carbon monoxide is not something to play with.

Usually there are plastics on the sides of a car radiator, also the house connector. Not a good idea for 160°.

Well what would have been nice is to see what that would have actually done on its own without the radiator. Of course the temperature outside and inside would have had to been the same to see with and without.

Of course it works because the gas from the exhaust is heating the cast radiator. The more surface you have, the more it dissipates the heat and this is what you want : a dissipation of the heat inside the room.

The hot exhaust enters at the top and must cool off to exit the bottom, this is a good idea. There is lots of information if you search "The free movement of Gas" for more detailed explanation

@timyanke9559 wouldnt the less hot Exhaust simply exit the top, as well? I do appreciate your explanation, however. Seems like thermal transfer would be more effcient the other way around. As always, it might simply seem that way.. great explanation, thank you for your kindness!

More heat will be transferred from a downward flow, and with an upward flow, it will continue to draft due to natural convection when the heater is not running. Upwards flow is important if you are relying on convection for natural draft, but with an inducer motor, a downward draft allows more heat transfer.

One would have 2 objectives with the radiator..get the exhaust gases out without any bigger resistance so the haeter would work without failures and transfer the heat energy to the space/room it is in.. Maybe think it this way that: If the radiator radiates heat into space it sits in, the gas gets quite a bit heavier and falls downwards thus creating natural flow.. Other way it would flow way worse.. Also the heat tends to rise in the room (colder at floor level than eg. at 1m height) the higher one goes..heat energy transfer requires *temperature difference*. So even though putting hottest gas into the low part would make a bit more energy transfer in the bottom due to bigger temp difference, the gas would cool and top part of radiator would not transfer heat energy into the room with very little temp difference..meaning not very well..like one had way smaller radiator.. Now put hot gas into the top side you have plenty of difference..and while the gas still cools while going down so does the temperature around there and there will still be temp difference on the bottom in regards with the space even though the radiator is cooler down there..👍 You'll get quite a bit of net gain there since the whole radiator transfers the heat to the space..

CO gas is heavy, sinks, same best to have it go out the bottom

Wow. Impressive!

even better: a solar charge controller will work with any output from 12 to 30 Volts, and constantly keep a battery at a full charge. for me, a cheap charge controller was 15 euros, and I can combine it with regular, cheap power supplies in the range of 12 to 30 volts. the whole thing keeps the battery at 14% charge constantly and will recharge the batter once it drops below 13 volts. stays within the common range a car battery runs at with the alternator working, and if the power does go out, the battery still has enough charge for roughly 3 hours at full startup power draw. The heater is actually able to work between 12 to 24 volts, so it works with 14 volts just fine. at that point, could probably even go for a solar panel and go 100% self sustained.

from my sight I would say I would go with the same size again because at the outlet the temperatur is so low what means for me it uses the maximum heat coming from the exhaust if it would be more hot at this end I would say it is to small.

@dsfarmns2823 Okay, Thank you! I was thinking about running two heaters to my radiator . I would make a junction box with two port holes, then run the combined exhaust through the radiator, so I am thinking of going half again larger than yours, maybe. I want a little heat to escape out the radiator exhaust. I will make my pipes larger than yours to make up for the combined exhaust. Good job on the project, stay warm.

@@mrwilly41 just make sure you have enough cross-sectional area you dont want back pressure and in my opinion I would go at least 1.5 times bigger radiator or 2 times if you use 2 heaters but wy not use 2 radiators for every heater one?

@dsfarmns2823 Like you, I am thinking less holes in the building. I will make it so I can remove one of the heaters for other tasks if need be.

Yes it is the newer versions are more quiet

@@dsfarmns2823 newer versions from VEVOR ? or other ?

@@pinkertondom_7442 from Vevor I work at a new Video right now they are very quiet now

@@pinkertondom_7442 can you tell me please how long your battery can work the heater? Is it an normal 12 volt battery? How many Ah and A? Thank you

@@georgitasi2511 36 Watt - per hour = normal 12 volt battery - 60 Amh - enough for all night (360 Watt for 10 hour use) Charging Battery during a day - driving (car generator) or from solar system and use heater at night.