I have great difficulty paying attention to videos, especially instructional. I usually have to watch it a few times to figure them out, but you sir; Need a handshake. Thank you so much! Pofessional and simple. Keep up the great work!
Just started a new job training in appliance repair and this really cleared up a lot of the parts that have been confusing me. You make it very easy to understand. Thanks so much!
Glad it helped! It took me a while to understand these concepts also. If you are looking for appliance service management software... I have built a web application system that I'm pretty proud of. It's servicenode.work If you check it out and have any questions let me know!
FINALLY!!! I've been searching everywhere for someone to explain in detail about what could be the problem with my stove, and how to set that Multimeter thing-a-majig and actually show what setting. Not only was I tremendously puzzled ( Imma Hairdresser NOT an electrician) and frustrated because I couldn't find a video that went threw and explained it all, I also heard some things I hadn't heard but It made my day because SIR you had me ROFLMGAO. Thank you so much!!!
Earlier this afternoon, one of the blocks on my stove burned out and the heat on light remained after after all the switches were turned off, thoroughly freaking me out. After watching this video, I was able to troubleshoot the problem and avoided a potentially hefty repair bill. A couple of new parts and I should be good to go! The video was extremely helpful so keep it up!
I found this video and others that you've made very helpful in fixing appliances on my own. The style is very appropriate to get the message across in a light-hearted way and I definitely prefer something humorous than other videos which are poorly lit and boring as hell.
one of the best vids i have seen on this type of repair, exceptionally good. I liked how you showed close up of how the element terminals slide into the copper receptacles
Thank you ever so much, you just fixed my stove element!! I am far from knowing anything electrical, but luckily my problem was a very simple one. Just had to sand down the wires and all of a sudden, my two coils that did not work (on a new stove!) started working! Now, I just have to fix the rubber that detached from the oven door... 🙄 Brand new! Have to get some silicone glue and do the best I can to seal that oven. I am a woman and I live by myself, so.. long live youtube and the wonderful and kind knowledgeable people who share their talents. Saved me a lot of money and frustration. Thanks again!! 🧡
Thanks so much! Fixed my problem @5:18 The replacement switch I ordered was the issue, the infinite switch was rubbing against the plastic housing causing it to bind and get stuck, not allowing current to flow through. Used a razor blade to remove some plastic and allow the infinite switch to move freely, good as new!
Contemplating what to do, recently learned our stove top isn't working. Great video, and agree with others the clarity & technical explanation is very helpful. Like the humble humor too❤. Gives me another hopeful option vs going straight down the tunnel of buying a whole new stove! Thanks
Thank you for your information. It is very helpful. It's true that I never appreciate the heat until it is gone. It is time for me to dig in and go to work.
Thank you for the information. I had replaced the entire cook top wiring with a wire set from another brand of range. My brother sent me the replacement from a scavenged unit as mine only had two working burners. Replacement went flawlessly without help but the large element I usually use to boil water now took forever and never fully boiled. Your identifying the amperage range of the switches was the solution I needed. I simply swapped the infinite switches for the left two elements and solved the problem. The right two were already connected correctly. I can only guess that the original stove had both large burners on the front.
Thank you for the video! I think I will need to watch this several times before I can fully understand... I might end up hiring someone, but still wouldn't hurt to understand how everything works. I thought you are very talented. Not just at fixing, but making an entertaining & informative video clip with an ad slipped in for your website! ;)
excellent, succinct and fun video. My frigidaire electric oven goes to 375F, but no higher. Is it likely to be the control block, or could it be the heating element?
Just fixed my stovetop thanks to this video. It was simply an unplugged wire going to the burner, but I would not have had the confidence or know-how to troubleshoot without the video. Thanks. I also thought it had the perfect balance of humor and info. Thanks again.
Glad to help : ) if it is just a cook top then it should have a separate power supply from the oven, so I would still guess that there is some kind of a problem with the electricity getting to the stove top... maybe a loose connection so be careful. Good luck!
hard to say for sure but it definitely is a shot to the cabinet somewhere... Do you have a model number? I don't know if I will be able to find any diagrams for a range from the 50's but its worth a shot. I would probably just start looking for a short somewhere between the buttons and the heating element.
A lot of info is better than not enough, so I don't understand the down votes on videos such as this, were those people so stupid that they googled cat videos and watched this and decided to down vote it because there were no cats in it? I didn't google cat videos, i google how to remove the range top and this was on the side, so I might as well educate myself some prior to needing it. Thanks for a great video
I once thought that the entire cooktop had to be replaced when one burner failed. Thanks to this video, I've fixed/replaced burner switches and/or burner elements on mine and some of my neighbors glass-top stoves easily and quickly, saving them and me plenty of money in service calls in the process. Thanks.
The idea is basically the same the main difference is the need for a pan or pot with a fairly flat bottom for better heat transfer. the only other issue is when your tasty culinary concoction is complete, it is a good idea to move it to a cool surface element because cool down time is fairly slow with electric surface elements. Also if you have a glass top be careful not to use pots and pans that may scratch the surface. Good luck! Thanks for the question!
THUMBS UP!!!! I think your video is great. Very informative and Entertaining. I'm definitely more confident in trouble shooting my burner issue. Thank you for taking the time to educate others!
Man, thank you, yes there does seem to be alot of info in that video, however it answers all my questions lol, im new to troubleshooting appliances, but you sure remove the intimidation of it, subscribed/ liked/ loved 😊
Excellent job. Very understandable. Lol "it takes 2 to make a thing go right" 😅 I have my grandpa's multimeter and was trained as an electrician Apprentice, so i understand alot of your tutorial. Appliances are pretty interesting.
The oven does work. The stove and over arent together the stove top is on a cabinet sort of way and the stove is in the wall type if that makes any sense lol thanks for replying your videos are more helpful than you know and saves alot of money for people.
I am struggling with my heating element, and will probably have to get someone to repair it. But I will continue watching this video, rewatching it. Maybe write down the instructions. Very good video, I just need to study this video carefully.
THIS IS REALLY AN EXCELLENT VIDEO. I actually understand it. I have to do this on a Kenmore glass cook top. Either I fix it r it goes 2 the curb. It came with the house. Would never buy one of these, cheap, junk. I would spend more $ and get a better quality appliance, than buy junk. Tired of fixing/having it fixed.
Great great video!! I have a Frigidaire Galleria and the two front burners on each side won't heat up to red level although they still get warm. What do think the issue is? Thoughts?
Now I got somewhere to start....if I turn on most if not all my heating elements like to mid heat 4-6, the burner bearly heats up. So I got to turn it on high, let it heat up, then back down to mid....then you walk away...come back and no heat again... I was ready to throw the range out the back door but maybe its simple fix! Good video!!!
I have a whirlpool electric stove Model RF385PXE. Both of the large burners get extremely hot/red regardless of what setting you have it on. One started to do it and we just disregarded it and used the other burners. Now, the other large burner is doing it as well. Would changing the switch on both of these burners fix it?
Sorry for the slow response. on the Frigidaire style there are a few Phillips head screws on the under side of the top that you can see when you open the oven door. at that point the top hinges up on two tabs under the back of the top. Be super careful!! you may want to have someone else there to help. If the top breaks it's very expensive to replace! Good luck!
Thanks! This video helped me figure out the problem with my stove! The element control switches were switched (pun intended), so that the small and large burners were mismatched. It caused the large burner to not really heat at all unless you turned it on high. It must have been that way from the factory. I just switched the switches and everything seems fine.
This is an awesome video. Thanks for your efforts. Concise and well explained. Helped me alot. I was working on a range that had 2 dual elements and they are both operating erratically. I was thinking it might be due to the temp probe on the element and told "no that probe is simply for the pilot lights so it is most likely the control switch/knob that is the problem. Your video seems to confirm that all the heat cycling is done at the control switch/knob. Is that correct?
that's a great video. im gonna subscribe. my friend just told me they got a shock and I thought id try and help her out. I asked if she removed the elements to clean and or saw any defect in the element herself. im waiting to hear back. any advice? I know its an apartment stove and gotta be 3 wire cause that house is old.
The GE stove (Kitchen Center) is mod# LJ247P1N2 11.9 from the inside of oven door.the pic shows the wiring behind the control panel. I replaced the original wiring with hi-temp wire and put hi temp ring terminals on the ends to make secure connections. any idea where I could find a wiring diagram using this model number?
That was perfect for a me who does not know anything about appliances. Either the thing that gets red is broken. Or the switch. Or the wires. Or the connection between all that.
great vid!! i have a jenn aire that i just dumped water on and shorted something out how do i get the top off? thewater popped and flashed under thetop the oven shut and locked cloesed but the top burners showed power when i turned them on , its unplugged and drying out
Sorry for the delay, I hope you figured it out. Try using a meter to check for voltage from a screw on the range's frame to a ground connection and see if you get a reading. There is probably a shorted wire somewhere... Then unplug it and check for resistance from each of the plug terminals to the frame as you turn each burner switch on one by one. Hopefully that will help to narrow down where you should be looking. If you still don't find anything look at the oven element wires. Good luck!
Thank you for posting the video. I have an electric range cleaned by the cleaning lady, then the surface heat light is on all the time. When I turned on 1 switch, 2 burners on the same side were both on. Could you help me figure out what the cause is? Thanks a lot.
What about the touch button type stoves with radiant heater elements? How do you repair/replace those type switches ? Lg glass cooktop with double oven.
There isn’t anything official that I’ve heard of or tried, but if you can figure something out that works I would love to hear about it. Solder wouldn’t work because of the heat involved.
Thx for the video. My left front burner was not working - and it is the one controlled by the simmer select control board. After testing the infinite switch for continuity L1/H1 and L2/H2 to be okay - I ordered a replacement simmer select control board and now its back to working order. Save hundreds on a repair man visit.
Great video Thanks, like to ask you a question I am not getting the 240 volts when touching both hot wires. I do get the 120 volts off each side. where could I start looking for the problem
Thank you for all the wonderful information. Because you were so concise I was able to open the cook top and review the parts. It became immediately apparent that my large front right burner was none functioning because one of the metal connections on the wire leading to the burner had burned and was no longer making contact. My question is: Do I need to replace the complete wire with ends? Is it possible to put just a new end on? Do I need to replace the L1 L2 switch as well.
Well that kind of is what they are supposed to do... Is it not getting hot enough over all? When they are on they are full on, then cycle off to cool down, then back on again and off and on and off... Side note: If the element is heating up to red it is okay. So if the temperatures are not good enough I would lean toward a weak infinite switch... Hope that helps! Good luck!
My pleasure! Unfortunately no, this is the only range video I've made. But in most cases the back panel will come off with a few screws and the switch is held in place by 2 screws behind the knob. You need to order the switch by the range model number which is usually located behind the storage drawer on a sticker on the frame of the range. Make sure you get the right one for that element, they can be different depending on the element size. Good luck! Thanks for the question!
Finally, I found a some help I hope. Yes, great explanation to burner switches . My issue is on my jen-aire counter-top stove the two temp. controls melt down and now no parts are available. Please tell me that any correctly purchase temp. control that matches original parts would work. I do not see why substitute parts are not available/ Might not have a gourmet look but will work fine. what do you think..
there’s very few certainties in this world. But if all the statistics for wattage, amperage, and voltage are correct and it fits, it should work. Good luck!
I have an old 50's GE electric stove which I repaired (mostly) by replacing the burners and wiring to the switch banks from each burner. Everything works fine except when pushing any of the warm buttons (lowest setting on switches). If any warm button is pushed, the breaker trips instantly. Any ideas on what's the problem? the burners are double coiled. Jeff
12 year old Kenmore Elite stove. Front burner is cycling on and off. I've had to shut it down at the panel. Have some time tomorrow to troubleshoot. Suggestions? thx
Thanks! I was able to successfully replace the switch for a large burner. I also replaced a small burner switch that “sticks on” but it’s not acting any different. Burner itself was replaced too. What am I missing?
Great video! Having problems with an old Jenn Air downddraft built-in counter stove/grill. The two elements on the rihgt hade side are still functional. On the left, there is either an insertable tray containing two more burner elemnts or one large barbecu type burner. Barbecu element stopped working and when replaced by the two burner tray, one of the two burners no longer worked. Replaced a burnt fuse and when turning switch for the non functional burner element fuse blows again. To con't..
Hi, I'm so happy to found your explanations. I bought a Maytag in 2007 but the triple surface burner element never work. By the time, I realized it, the guarantee was finish. I checked everywhere with multimeter and the problem seams to be a broken coil. I want to know if it's reparable ? Can I do welding on it ? or need to replace ? It's very expensive, about 150$ Can you help me please ?
...damn this is an 11 year old video, it looks like it was made last week. That's some good production you got there. ✌🏽 And some very good info. They never covered any of this stuff in Electronics Tech school🤔
What a great video...!! any thoughts with 1 out of the 3 burners not working? I get a power reading on the 3 operational burners, but no reading at all on the bad one. Any suggestions?
Probably a bad switch that is controlling that element. check voltage at the switch L1 and L2 is input so you should have 240 VAC there all the time… Then if the switch is on high you should get 240 VAC at H1 and H2 which are the output connections. Good luck!
one other question... my kenmore right front burner would come on to high then go clear off. changed the switch still does the same thing? anything else i am missing?
i have the original ge electric oven/stove top. very basic. it was in the house when i bought it and i hope to use it until i redo the house and buy new in a year or so. but the only thing that works is the light inside the oven. looking forward to following your troubleshooting techniques tomorrow. thanks.
Hi applicantassistant. I have a whirlpool gold and my electric burner stopped working but the bridge burner work that is located right beside it. Do i need to change the element since the bridge works or could it be the infinite switch?
Not sure why I missed you post... I hope you have it figured out, but if not, it could be ether the element or the switch. Just treat the second part of the burner like a separate element... the switch will have two sets of out puts for each coil in the element, so you can check it in the way I show on the video. You can also check the wires from the element in question for resistance with a meter, if it shows as open then the element is bad. Hope that helps... you or someone... Thanks for your question!
I have great difficulty paying attention to videos, especially instructional. I usually have to watch it a few times to figure them out, but you sir; Need a handshake. Thank you so much! Pofessional and simple. Keep up the great work!
Just started a new job training in appliance repair and this really cleared up a lot of the parts that have been confusing me. You make it very easy to understand. Thanks so much!
Glad it helped! It took me a while to understand these concepts also. If you are looking for appliance service management software... I have built a web application system that I'm pretty proud of. It's servicenode.work If you check it out and have any questions let me know!
FINALLY!!! I've been searching everywhere for someone to explain in detail about what could be the problem with my stove, and how to set that Multimeter thing-a-majig and actually show what setting. Not only was I tremendously puzzled ( Imma Hairdresser NOT an electrician) and frustrated because I couldn't find a video that went threw and explained it all, I also heard some things I hadn't heard but It made my day because SIR you had me ROFLMGAO. Thank you so much!!!
Glad I could help! Are you in Louisville? Because I am in serious need of a haircut ; )
Thanks for the comment!
Earlier this afternoon, one of the blocks on my stove burned out and the heat on light remained after after all the switches were turned off, thoroughly freaking me out. After watching this video, I was able to troubleshoot the problem and avoided a potentially hefty repair bill. A couple of new parts and I should be good to go! The video was extremely helpful so keep it up!
Excellent instructional video. Good clear voice and diction. Clear graphics. Pacing and level of detail bang on. Thanks.
Great video!! Fixed the stove top just before Christmas. I am now my wife's hero. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
i never wrote a comment on you tube.. but this is by far an excellent tutorial. keep them coming
I found this video and others that you've made very helpful in fixing appliances on my own. The style is very appropriate to get the message across in a light-hearted way and I definitely prefer something humorous than other videos which are poorly lit and boring as hell.
I've been repairing my own appliances for a while now.
This was a great video that gave me information that was useful.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
one of the best vids i have seen on this type of repair, exceptionally good. I liked how you showed close up of how the element terminals slide into the copper receptacles
Thank you for taking the time to comment! Glad you liked it!
I was impressed with this clear tutorial, I learned a lot. Many thanks.
I will do some continuity tests tonight. Thank you 12 years old instruction video.
Thank you ever so much, you just fixed my stove element!! I am far from knowing anything electrical, but luckily my problem was a very simple one. Just had to sand down the wires and all of a sudden, my two coils that did not work (on a new stove!) started working! Now, I just have to fix the rubber that detached from the oven door... 🙄 Brand new! Have to get some silicone glue and do the best I can to seal that oven. I am a woman and I live by myself, so.. long live youtube and the wonderful and kind knowledgeable people who share their talents. Saved me a lot of money and frustration. Thanks again!! 🧡
The Citizen Kane of electric range repair videos! Magnifique! Four Stars!
Thanks so much! Fixed my problem @5:18 The replacement switch I ordered was the issue, the infinite switch was rubbing against the plastic housing causing it to bind and get stuck, not allowing current to flow through. Used a razor blade to remove some plastic and allow the infinite switch to move freely, good as new!
Now that's what I'm talking about! Good observation skills! thanks for taking the time to comment!
It is a 9 years ago video. However, it explained well with the mechanism. Very helpful. Thanks!
Excellent video. Clear, concise, and easy to follow. Thanks for sharing this information.
Thanks for the comment!
Michael Knight I found it annoying. Like it was made for an audience of 12 year olds
Contemplating what to do, recently learned our stove top isn't working. Great video, and agree with others the clarity & technical explanation is very helpful. Like the humble humor too❤. Gives me another hopeful option vs going straight down the tunnel of buying a whole new stove! Thanks
Thank you for your information. It is very helpful. It's true that I never appreciate the heat until it is gone. It is time for me to dig in and go to work.
Fantastic video: Concise, accurate AND entertaining.
Thank you for the information. I had replaced the entire cook top wiring with a wire set from another brand of range. My brother sent me the replacement from a scavenged unit as mine only had two working burners. Replacement went flawlessly without help but the large element I usually use to boil water now took forever and never fully boiled.
Your identifying the amperage range of the switches was the solution I needed. I simply swapped the infinite switches for the left two elements and solved the problem. The right two were already connected correctly. I can only guess that the original stove had both large burners on the front.
Probably the best video I've seen on this ever
just worked out the problem with my old stove thanks to this video. timeless for those who like a bit of hands-on
Thank you for the video! I think I will need to watch this several times before I can fully understand... I might end up hiring someone, but still wouldn't hurt to understand how everything works.
I thought you are very talented. Not just at fixing, but making an entertaining & informative video clip with an ad slipped in for your website! ;)
excellent, succinct and fun video. My frigidaire electric oven goes to 375F, but no higher. Is it likely to be the control block, or could it be the heating element?
Excellent video! Saved me the cost of a professional technician servicing my faulty burner.
Just fixed my stovetop thanks to this video. It was simply an unplugged wire going to the burner, but I would not have had the confidence or know-how to troubleshoot without the video. Thanks. I also thought it had the perfect balance of humor and info. Thanks again.
Thank you very much. You shined my day. I've just reset the range circuit breaker and it worked. Awesome video. Thanks and thanks.
Wonderful! Thanks for the comment!
It's hard to make appliance repair entertaining : ) Thank you!
Glad to help : ) if it is just a cook top then it should have a separate power supply from the oven, so I would still guess that there is some kind of a problem with the electricity getting to the stove top... maybe a loose connection so be careful. Good luck!
What an awsome and generous tutorial you all put together. Simply, Thank you for all the videos you produce.
Thanks for that! Glad you enjoy them!
hard to say for sure but it definitely is a shot to the cabinet somewhere... Do you have a model number? I don't know if I will be able to find any diagrams for a range from the 50's but its worth a shot. I would probably just start looking for a short somewhere between the buttons and the heating element.
A lot of info is better than not enough, so I don't understand the down votes on videos such as this, were those people so stupid that they googled cat videos and watched this and decided to down vote it because there were no cats in it? I didn't google cat videos, i google how to remove the range top and this was on the side, so I might as well educate myself some prior to needing it. Thanks for a great video
Excellent info... Thank you
Wow! Very well done! Got it. Great summary of what my problems could be. I like your safety moments as well.
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
I once thought that the entire cooktop had to be replaced when one burner failed. Thanks to this video, I've fixed/replaced burner switches and/or burner elements on mine and some of my neighbors glass-top stoves easily and quickly, saving them and me plenty of money in service calls in the process. Thanks.
That's what its all about! Thanks for the comment!
The idea is basically the same the main difference is the need for a pan or pot with a fairly flat bottom for better heat transfer. the only other issue is when your tasty culinary concoction is complete, it is a good idea to move it to a cool surface element because cool down time is fairly slow with electric surface elements. Also if you have a glass top be careful not to use pots and pans that may scratch the surface. Good luck! Thanks for the question!
THUMBS UP!!!! I think your video is great. Very informative and Entertaining. I'm definitely more confident in trouble shooting my burner issue. Thank you for taking the time to educate others!
Man, thank you, yes there does seem to be alot of info in that video, however it answers all my questions lol, im new to troubleshooting appliances, but you sure remove the intimidation of it, subscribed/ liked/ loved 😊
Excellent job. Very understandable. Lol "it takes 2 to make a thing go right" 😅
I have my grandpa's multimeter and was trained as an electrician Apprentice, so i understand alot of your tutorial. Appliances are pretty interesting.
The oven does work. The stove and over arent together the stove top is on a cabinet sort of way and the stove is in the wall type if that makes any sense lol thanks for replying your videos are more helpful than you know and saves alot of money for people.
I am struggling with my heating element, and will probably have to get someone to repair it. But I will continue watching this video, rewatching it. Maybe write down the instructions. Very good video, I just need to study this video carefully.
THIS IS REALLY AN EXCELLENT VIDEO. I actually understand it. I have to do this on a Kenmore glass cook top. Either I fix it r it goes 2 the curb. It came with the house. Would never buy one of these, cheap, junk. I would spend more $ and get a better quality appliance, than buy junk. Tired of fixing/having it fixed.
I learned a lot after 7 minute video. Thank you
Great great video!! I have a Frigidaire Galleria and the two front burners on each side won't heat up to red level although they still get warm. What do think the issue is? Thoughts?
Now I got somewhere to start....if I turn on most if not all my heating elements like to mid heat 4-6, the burner bearly heats up. So I got to turn it on high, let it heat up, then back down to mid....then you walk away...come back and no heat again...
I was ready to throw the range out the back door but maybe its simple fix! Good video!!!
Thank you. I could not find a how to for removal of a top forever. I changed my element in about 20 minutes after watching this.
I have a whirlpool electric stove Model RF385PXE. Both of the large burners get extremely hot/red regardless of what setting you have it on. One started to do it and we just disregarded it and used the other burners. Now, the other large burner is doing it as well. Would changing the switch on both of these burners fix it?
Sorry for the slow response. on the Frigidaire style there are a few Phillips head screws on the under side of the top that you can see when you open the oven door. at that point the top hinges up on two tabs under the back of the top. Be super careful!! you may want to have someone else there to help. If the top breaks it's very expensive to replace! Good luck!
Oh yeah, also wanted to mention, do the glass-top coils heat up and cool down that fast, or was that just fast motion?
Thanks! This video helped me figure out the problem with my stove! The element control switches were switched (pun intended), so that the small and large burners were mismatched. It caused the large burner to not really heat at all unless you turned it on high. It must have been that way from the factory. I just switched the switches and everything seems fine.
Congratulations! Switching switched switches...Perfect! Thanks for the comment!
This tutorial helped me avoid a tech visit. My breaker was the problem!
This is an awesome video. Thanks for your efforts. Concise and well explained. Helped me alot. I was working on a range that had 2 dual elements and they are both operating erratically. I was thinking it might be due to the temp probe on the element and told "no that probe is simply for the pilot lights so it is most likely the control switch/knob that is the problem. Your video seems to confirm that all the heat cycling is done at the control switch/knob. Is that correct?
Thats the direction I would try first. Good luck!
Great content and information in a nice and tight package. Well done!
that's a great video. im gonna subscribe.
my friend just told me they got a shock and I thought id try and help her out.
I asked if she removed the elements to clean and or saw any defect in the element herself.
im waiting to hear back. any advice?
I know its an apartment stove and gotta be 3 wire cause that house is old.
The GE stove (Kitchen Center) is mod# LJ247P1N2 11.9 from the inside of oven door.the pic shows the wiring behind the control panel. I replaced the original wiring with hi-temp wire and put hi temp ring terminals on the ends to make secure connections. any idea where I could find a wiring diagram using this model number?
That was perfect for a me who does not know anything about appliances.
Either the thing that gets red is broken. Or the switch. Or the wires. Or the connection between all that.
great vid!! i have a jenn aire that i just dumped water on and shorted something out how do i get the top off? thewater popped and flashed under thetop the oven shut and locked cloesed but the top burners showed power when i turned them on , its unplugged and drying out
Sorry for the delay, I hope you figured it out. Try using a meter to check for voltage from a screw on the range's frame to a ground connection and see if you get a reading. There is probably a shorted wire somewhere... Then unplug it and check for resistance from each of the plug terminals to the frame as you turn each burner switch on one by one. Hopefully that will help to narrow down where you should be looking. If you still don't find anything look at the oven element wires. Good luck!
Thank you for posting the video. I have an electric range cleaned by the cleaning lady, then the surface heat light is on all the time. When I turned on 1 switch, 2 burners on the same side were both on. Could you help me figure out what the cause is? Thanks a lot.
What about the touch button type stoves with radiant heater elements? How do you repair/replace those type switches ? Lg glass cooktop with double oven.
Thanks for your video. What should I do with broken filament? Is there a way to reuse it or solder join?
There isn’t anything official that I’ve heard of or tried, but if you can figure something out that works I would love to hear about it.
Solder wouldn’t work because of the heat involved.
Thx for the video. My left front burner was not working - and it is the one controlled by the simmer select control board. After testing the infinite switch for continuity L1/H1 and L2/H2 to be okay - I ordered a replacement simmer select control board and now its back to working order. Save hundreds on a repair man visit.
Great video. Gave me some direction that will hopefully lead to the issue Im having.
Thank you 🙂
very good information in such a short video
Excellent video, I've done my part helping, I shared it on Facebook. Good luck with the ratings.
Great video Thanks, like to ask you a question I am not getting the 240 volts when touching both hot wires. I do get the 120 volts off each side. where could I start looking for the problem
Great video, fun & informative, thank you for taking the time to make it.
Excellent instructional video. Thank you very much!!
i actually wish it was longer than 7 minutes, a good watch indeed. tks
Thanks a lot 😊
Thank you for all the wonderful information. Because you were so concise I was able to open the cook top and review the parts. It became immediately apparent that my large front right burner was none functioning because one of the metal connections on the wire leading to the burner had burned and was no longer making contact. My question is: Do I need to replace the complete wire with ends? Is it possible to put just a new end on? Do I need to replace the L1 L2 switch as well.
Thanks for the input. How was the video from 1:44 on? Did you have a question I can help with?
Well that kind of is what they are supposed to do... Is it not getting hot enough over all? When they are on they are full on, then cycle off to cool down, then back on again and off and on and off... Side note: If the element is heating up to red it is okay. So if the temperatures are not good enough I would lean toward a weak infinite switch... Hope that helps! Good luck!
My pleasure! Unfortunately no, this is the only range video I've made. But in most cases the back panel will come off with a few screws and the switch is held in place by 2 screws behind the knob. You need to order the switch by the range model number which is usually located behind the storage drawer on a sticker on the frame of the range. Make sure you get the right one for that element, they can be different depending on the element size. Good luck! Thanks for the question!
That did have a slight speed adjustment but no by much. after they have heated up a few times they are about that fast. Thanks for the question!
This was a great video, I didn't understand all of it, but I'm sure if I go to the site I will learn, gave a scribe for all the useful info, 👍
Liked, subscribed and I want to say this video is helpful
Great video, keep up the great work, Thanks for taking your time to help others.
Thank you!
Finally, I found a some help I hope. Yes, great explanation to burner switches . My issue is on my jen-aire counter-top stove the two temp. controls melt down and now no parts are available. Please tell me that any correctly purchase temp. control that matches original parts would work. I do not see why substitute parts are not available/ Might not have a gourmet look but will work fine. what do you think..
there’s very few certainties in this world. But if all the statistics for wattage, amperage, and voltage are correct and it fits, it should work. Good luck!
I have an old 50's GE electric stove which I repaired (mostly) by replacing the burners and wiring to the switch banks from each burner. Everything works fine except when pushing any of the warm buttons (lowest setting on switches). If any warm button is pushed, the breaker trips instantly. Any ideas on what's the problem? the burners are double coiled. Jeff
Old but gold 👍👍👍
Thank you!
Perfect! I just ran into my first bad simmer control board last week... Same symptoms. Thanks for the comment!
That was my thinking as well. Ordered a new element last week. Not in love with this range but not ready to replace it yet either.
Thank you I check out the power connection with a meter and only one leg had power so I rewired it and it working great now.
Perfect, Congratulations!
Just out of curiosity on the glasstop range what is the grey or brownish material under the elements.
MrTXWolfie I'm not sure... Good question! I know it's not asbestos : ) I wish it was made out aerogel! ruclips.net/video/5sw1tNeJ0Rw/видео.html
12 year old Kenmore Elite stove. Front burner is cycling on and off. I've had to shut it down at the panel. Have some time tomorrow to troubleshoot. Suggestions? thx
Thanks!
I was able to successfully replace the switch for a large burner. I also replaced a small burner switch that “sticks on” but it’s not acting any different. Burner itself was replaced too. What am I missing?
Good clear well made video, Thanks!
Great video!
Having problems with an old Jenn Air downddraft built-in counter stove/grill.
The two elements on the rihgt hade side are still functional.
On the left, there is either an insertable tray containing two more burner elemnts or one large barbecu type burner.
Barbecu element stopped working and when replaced by the two burner tray, one of the two burners no longer worked. Replaced a burnt fuse and when turning switch for the non functional burner element fuse blows again. To con't..
where do i send the check, you just saved me a bunch of money ;^)
your name here i love it 1 of the best vids on here
Hi, I'm so happy to found your explanations. I bought a Maytag in 2007 but the triple surface burner element never work. By the time, I realized it, the guarantee was finish. I checked everywhere with multimeter and the problem seams to be a broken coil. I want to know if it's reparable ? Can I do welding on it ? or need to replace ? It's very expensive, about 150$
Can you help me please ?
...damn this is an 11 year old video, it looks like it was made last week. That's some good production you got there. ✌🏽
And some very good info. They never covered any of this stuff in Electronics Tech school🤔
What a great video...!! any thoughts with 1 out of the 3 burners not working? I get a power reading on the 3 operational burners, but no reading at all on the bad one. Any suggestions?
Probably a bad switch that is controlling that element. check voltage at the switch L1 and L2 is input so you should have 240 VAC there all the time… Then if the switch is on high you should get 240 VAC at H1 and H2 which are the output connections. Good luck!
great presentation about a look "behind the scene"
Thank you!
one other question... my kenmore right front burner would come on to high then go clear off. changed the switch still does the same thing? anything else i am missing?
Can the contacts be cleaned with fine grit sand paper like a points style distributor on a car? Would that make the heating element build heat faster?
i have the original ge electric oven/stove top. very basic. it was in the house when i bought it and i hope to use it until i redo the house and buy new in a year or so. but the only thing that works is the light inside the oven. looking forward to following your troubleshooting techniques tomorrow. thanks.
Hi applicantassistant. I have a whirlpool gold and my electric burner stopped working but the bridge burner work that is located right beside it. Do i need to change the element since the bridge works or could it be the infinite switch?
Not sure why I missed you post... I hope you have it figured out, but if not, it could be ether the element or the switch. Just treat the second part of the burner like a separate element... the switch will have two sets of out puts for each coil in the element, so you can check it in the way I show on the video. You can also check the wires from the element in question for resistance with a meter, if it shows as open then the element is bad. Hope that helps... you or someone... Thanks for your question!