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There are some model variations which dictates the board that you need, prices vary. Your local wolf parts distributor can help you with the correct lookup part number, pricing, and availability.

In what respect? Is there a visible legible model badge on your machine? If so, call your local wolf parts dealer to check availability of replacement hinges. Several wolf units utilize 1 spring hinge, and 1 has shock damper hinge. In our area I hardly see the damper unit fail. We generally just replace the spring side.

DF366

Ok. Call your local wolf parts dealer to confirm part numbers, and availability.

@@toddolsen995 Thanks - I've got the part numbers and confirmed availability, I'm looking for the steps to replace them. You went into detail about the problem around the 3:13 mark - I had hoped you'd cover that in the Part 2 video :)

@tecono1 i don't think I did. The hinges have a small hole at the bottom by the oven cavity. You will need to put a pin, or a screw in that hole or you will not be able to get it out. This acts as leverage so when you go to remove the door the hinges become disengaged from the receiver portion. From there its a matter of removing the screws from the door itself to access the hinges. Being careful to not damage the glass. If your model has a wolf logo on the face of the door there is usually 1 or 2 screws under that as well.

That happens. Same principle though

It really only works one way.

Sounds like there may be a failure occurring within the gearcase if that many couplers break. I would replace the gearcase at this point.

www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.geapplianceparts.com/store/order/shoppingcart&ved=2ahUKEwjzt5fm6r-GAxXF4MkDHZxkA60QFnoECDEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3H4QMxvU79E_L8P-2b_zoo It'd be best to check with GE parts direct as machines vary, and compatibility within the same model number is not always exact.

1-800-851-6200 is the number for GE parts. It is best to call them for exact replacement part numbers, and availability

Sometimes they seize on, and need to be cut off. Try spraying threads with liquid wrench or tri flow first, if that doesn't work you'll have to carefully cut it off.

@@toddolsen995 if I can just get this bolt off I’ll be home free to finish the repair

Colorado high country!

I’m in VA, so I dove in yesterday… (more confident after watching your tutorials). Discovered the relay board for the small oven was fried. One difference from your video I found, which you may know now, is that the entire assembly plate lifts and pulls out after removing the two front bolts and heat shield. This way you don’t have to kill your hands reaching in. Thx again for the videos!

They should line up automatically when the machine engages

After it fills does it sound like a motor is running?

@@toddolsen995 yes, because when I shift it to spin and rinse mode it’s spinning. But just the water never stop running to go to wash mode that’s doesn’t working.

Ok, thats a tough one. If it's not agitating after fill it could be a number of things. Diagnosing this is an advanced process. Is there any leaking from when it fills? If so, look for a loose hose dangling down by the tub, sometimes they pop off the pressure tube, which is connected to the water level switch. Has it overflowed over the top of the tub?

@@toddolsen995 yes it does leaking when it fill. And also the water keeps filling even when the lid is open.

Is there a loose tube dangling near the tub area?

It's best to call the manufacturer as part numbers change frequently, and not all models spec the same part.

I do not. I would call reliable parts.com , or repair clinic, and have them do the lookup. Part numbers are typically not stamped on the part. If its a double oven, I would replace both cooling fans at the same time

@@toddolsen995 hi thanks for the pointers!

Unfortunately it's under the door in the door jamb.

Most likely the thermal at the back failed. Try using a pice of coat hanger to push the latch that holds the door locked.

Yes, its actually a screen. They all look like that so don't worry. I have the same one. Scrub it with vinegar. If you have a hose that reaches that far will help with the pressure. If not just keep scrubbing and using hot water from the washer until its clean.

Nice, glad it works for you!

U 70 refers to the upper oven loosing communication with the realy board. Typically we would remove the communication cable ends, and clean with rubbing alcohol or electronic cleaner then reassemble, and test. If that doesn't work you would be looking at replacing the interface control, if that doesn't work you'd have to replace the relay board.

Hey, Todd. thank you very much, we will try to replace the control panel if I understand correctly?

As I mentioned above first try cleaning the comm cables before buying any parts that may not be needed.

@@toddolsen995Thanks Todd!!! Costumer confused wires when he changed board, now everything is working. Thanks Can I sometimes asking for you advice?

If it is still an issue, you will most likely need to replace the upper ove. Power board.

That can be tricky. I have a set of metal "dental picks" I like to use. Sometimes I can get on in the door to slightly move the lock latch enough to open it. If not try a hack saw blade to run down the jamb and cut the screws, if not that you'll have to pry carefully to keep the wood damage minimal.

Excellent! Well, now you have a spare inverter

Glad it worked out!

It is possible to calibrate them. Im not sure off the top of my head how to do so though. I would say call wolf, and they can walk you through it. Does the door close tight, and the gaskets in good shape? In my experience most ovens vary up to e0 degrees in either direction.

Not in jersey, what u need?

Sorry, i didnt get a message notification. Without the actaual wiring diagram im shooting a bit blind, but generally I'd tape the door switches, and see if the interior fan(s) are cycling, if so go the the compressor, and meter voltage there. If all is quiet, and no volts at the compressor pull the main board, check connectors at or near it. Can u get a diagram from bosch? If not inspect the board for damaged relays, signs of arcing, etc....do we have good neutral, and ground? Its hard to aalk through without the proper diagram, but turning over as many stones possible will help eliminate potential non issues.

Glad to hear!

Its tough to rule 1 out over the other. Unfortunately since samsung bought dacor the technical assistance went to almost non existant. Typically if a button does not work it is the interface, and I would also replace the communication cable if ot is not integrated with the interface. I hope that helps!

That may be normal. Some turn on when ovens turned on , some are on thermostat. If its not having issues, error codes, weird scenarios I'd say its probably ok

Thanks for the heads up!

Thanks for the visit

I'm not familiar with this. Is it a washer? It may be a piece that has worn off the agitator. For certain there is a small metal washer that goes on top of the agitator for this unit, but I don't believe there is anything at the bottom.

It's possible. Tough to say as not all models are specd the same as the actual diagram represents. There are variations for sure.

Glad I could help!

You're welcome

Doesn't seem like that would be possible, unless there's a score at the bearing interface. For whatever reason we don't see a lot of worn bearings in our area, I've only done a handful of them with no issues. It may be the belt idler pulley, those seem to squeel when worn.

@Scott-tv6vc im not quite sure i understand the question, can you be more specific?

Nevermind! Turns out I just needed to pull from the base with a little force to get it out! Turns out it was the spline that was cracked for my machine, and that's why it wasn't agitating properly! Thanks so much for this video

Your welcome, sorry, I didn't get an alert, but sometimes helps threading a leather belt under the agitator, and pulling that way too.

If thats the case i would check the wiring to the fan from the voltage source confirming continuity at these connections. Voltage should be coming from the electronic control that feeds it. If there's not a wiring diagram you may have to call bosch to get one. Confirmation of intact wiring is key in the first place though, thats where most people get it wrong but just ordering parts that may not be needed. Thorough multimetering cannot be overlooked.