Thank you Todd. Didn’t even know about the high limit switch thanks to you I “fixed” in in under 5 minutes. Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with the world.
Hello Todd, thanks for the video. I was wondering where the overtemp switch was located. I probably would have never found it if it wasn't for your video. I'm glad there was a schematic located in with the relay board area. I troubleshoot it to the overtemp switch but could find the location of it. You save me a lot time and grief. Once again thank you for posting the video.
@@mhash621 It appears there is only one High-limit button that can be reset. The button/switch is located above the top oven. I just opened the access area above the lower oven, and there is no high-limit button/switch that I can see. Reset the High-limit button/switch above the top oven and hopefully it will reset both the top and bottom oven enabling you to heat your lower oven again!
My Dacor slide in oven range doesn’t have a self clean function. Now the oven door is out of alignment, my husband says that would make it get too hot and flip the resettable high limit button. I’m wondering if my canning activities on the stove top wouldn’t make it too hot and flip the reset button? I’ve two xtra large canners and I can a lot in the summer, daily for several weeks, canning produce out of our garden. We purchased a new high limit button today, we have had to reset it several times over that past few years. We will get new hinge kits to get the door right too. Thanks for your videos! Good job.
Each time the high limit is reset it lowers the efficacy temperature of the high limit, meaning it will be more sensitive. So, yes it is a good idea to replace those if they trip regularly.
Hi Todd, Great video!! I have a Dacor MORD230 Double Wall Oven, and recently the lower oven started overheating. Seems like when it reaches the set temperature, it does not stop heating. I can hear a relay click, the element turns off, but then turns right back on again. Any thoughts as to what this could be? The upper oven works just fine. Thanks for your feedback.
Todd -- thanks so much for posting this! My symptom is that, post auto-clean, the oven does still heat up, but it will not heat up over 350 degrees. Can a tripped limit switch cause this behavior? Thanks.
Most likely not. Can be a variety of things. If the temperature sensor is not roughly 1080 ohms at room temperature, or not a consistent 240 volts at the power lugs it could be the relay board. That is the jist, excluding the basics, as, are both elements ok if applicable? Or , if applicable is the broil circuit/assembly working?
Hi don't know if your checking messages on here still but I'm just a Mom with a Dacor Oven that has not worked for 8 months. With holidays approaching I really need to figure this out. A repair guy came a long time ago and quoted me $2600 for new relay board and something else. I about fainted. The oven stopped working when I had guests over with the broil unit on and forgot about it. Think the oven got too hot. What does work is the behind the back 'wall' and so the oven can get to about 260-270 degrees but top and bottom element do not work. Anyway, I tried to reset that red button but dang its in a hard place to reach....do i keep pressing hard on it? I cannot pay the money for the repair so i have to figure this out 😞 Thnak you....Jana
No. If the red button is set, and voltage is passing through the limit which sounds like it does you will need a new control board for that. Thing is before you order that it will be necessary to meter voltage at certain points to confirm this. If your not familiar with how to meter voltage safely it will be necessary to hire a technician, or potentially replace the unit.
Just watched your video and those Dacor ovens look identical to ours (Model ECD230). The issue we're having is with the top unit where the broiler element (top) works, but the bottom one does not. I've tried resetting (red button) the 'high limits' but that didn't make any difference. My first thought was that the element might need to be replaced, but there's no apparent damage to it...it's not broken. One person I spoke with suggested that if the element appears to be fine, then that's probably not the problem. Instead, they suggest that the problem MAY be the relay board. Obviously, you have experience with Dacor wall ovens, so I'm hoping for some advice from you. 1. How difficult is it to replace the relay board. Does the oven have to be removed from the cabinet...and if so, how difficult is that to do? Is it a 2-person job? 2. Our oven was manufactured in December 2003...I think it was late 2004 before it was installed. Either way, it does have some age on it. But, considering how expensive those things are, I thought it would last a lifetime! But, would you recommend repairing it (the part itself is nearly $450) or, considering it's age, would you replace it? The bottom unit works great...no problems at all...so it seems wasteful to replace the entire thing. But, that's why I'm looking for some educated recommendation. Thank you!
It can be a bit tricky to pull these machines out. I use a hydraulic table cart. But a sturdy wooden box would suffice. You may not need to though. First it would be worth it to pull out the element even if it does look ok. Sometimes the connectors blow off the back. First kill the power via breaker, then unscrew the element vert carefully pull the element out. Most of the time the wiring to the element is very taunt and if one slips off while doing this then you have to pull the whole machine out. That being said, check continuity at the element, and the connections. If there loose or damaged, that can be the problem. Now is also a good time to meter for voltage. If the wiring is too tight that may not be safely possible though. If not you'll have to get access to the relay board, and check that out. Basically, the easiest way to inspect the board is to gain access to it, and inspect it closely. From the top, look at the relays, which are the usually black boxes on the board, and if one of them is damaged or melted looking, that's the issue. If that's not visible, then you can remove the board, and inspect the underside for failures, usually a charred mark around one of the solders. Hope that helps, and good luck with your repair !
Hi Tood. Thank you for the video. I, like others experienced a problem after a self clean on my Dacor MCS127 wall oven. The broiler element works but the bake element does not. We tested the back element and it is fine. When attempted to reset it (as I had done before just fine) the button didn't click. If the high limit button is faulty would that cause just the bake element to fail and not the broil element? I am panicking just a bit because I will need a working oven for Christmas meals.
Sounds like it is an issue with the relay board. Typically the high limit is wired through both bake, and broil circuits. I'd meter the high limit, and bake element from the relay board, then meter at the bake relay itself. You would need to follow the wire diagram on the unit. Hope that helps!%
Hi Todd, I have a Dacor Double Oven from around '92-'93. When I turn it on (lower oven) and set a temperature, it makes a click and it shows 135 F but it then turns off. I can't get it to heat. What could be causing it? Thank you!
It may be the resetable high limit, that does sound fairly warm for that though. It's a good idea to ohm out the temperature sensor before testing for any heat. Sensor should read around 1080 ohms at room temperature. If it's neither of those two items you will most likely need to replace the relay board.
Hi, just finding this now! We have a dacor warming drawer below GE wall ovens. No heat. Any suggestions on how to fix it, or diagnose it? They are much more expensive than I thought! Thank you-
They may have an internal reset able thermostat similar to several of their manufactured ovens. You'd have to pull it out, take it apart, and start applying electrical metering tests to it.
Nice video, my dacor oven only heats up to 213 degrees after 20 minutes. There is a fan running inside. I could see a faint red light from heating element which is located behind/under a glass panel in bottom of oven.
Some of those infrared elements have an inner and outer coil. I would be looking at ohm values for the element, and temperature probe. Probes ate generally 1080 ohms at room temperature, values for the element will vary. Wiring diagram that is with the machine, probably near the control electronics inside the top of the unit. If those values are ok, I'd check the other elements, and then the voltage outputs to those components.
@@toddolsen995 I am going to see if there is a schematic/diagram on the unit. Since both broil, convection bake and conventional bake all aren't working seems unlikely this would be lower heating element is defective. I am guessing control board or relay board since temp limit switch was ok. When I select preheat the round circular round fan comes on, unit heats up somewhat, very slowly but top element and bottom element never glow red like they are supposed to.
@@jimw6991 most units utilize ,and toggle between other elements to achieve proper temps. 1st check your temp sensor, and meter the proper legs for the bake element from the control area. Also inspect the relay board for blowouts. You'll still need to meter everything possible to make sure your not overlooking something
Hi Todd- I have a Dacor ERD36SBK range and in the convection bake mode the temperature will get up to the right temperature but then after a few minutes it will start dropping down. It does work fine in the convection only mode. I thought the bake element might be broke so I did replace it but still have the same issue. Any advice? Thanks!
The ohm values of the temperature sensor should read around 1080 ohms at room temperature, and should be a steady reading on your meter. I would also meter the broil element if it has one. Other than that I would be live metering from the controller while in use. Some dacors have a gas broiler, so it may need a new ignitor. Tough to say from afar on that one.
Hi Todd, I thought for sure this was the problem but no luck. I even jumped out the switch after it wouldn't reset. We have power (clock is on unit acts like it should otherwise). No heat on either coil (broil or bake) and now its not the reset switch. What is next the control board? It's a Dacor single wall oven from 2007. Thank you!
Probably a bad relay at the relay board. Most Dacors are accessible by removing the top panel on the wall oven, range units are a bit more involved. You will want to meter the voltage values accurately though. It could also be a blown or damaged wire somewhere.
@@toddolsen995 thank you. I will check it out. We were noticing some weird sparking that seemed to be coming from inside the oven (bottom coil) from time to time. Not sure if that would have been related.
I have a Dacor oven similar to the one in the video. The bake element burned out (with the requisite explosion) and I replaced it. put everything back together and still have no heat from the bake element. After researching (and watching this video) I tried resetting the high limit switch. It's in a challenging spot for me and while I'm pretty sure I reset it, I'm not certain. In this video, you say you checked the voltage on the sensor. When I check mine, I only get voltage when the oven is "on" (no heat from the bake element of course). Should voltage be passing through the switch at all times? I'm stumped.
There all a bit different, but typically you should be able to meter the voltage going through the high limit. If your high limit is in the tight space above the oven you'll have to confirm that you have proper contact between the meter, and the actual high limit. You should have between 105 and 120 volts. If that reads ok, you'll have to access the relay board, and look for damaged wiring or relay (typically black burned out mark)
@@toddolsen995 Thanks so much, the high limit switch had burned out, replacing it got my oven working again! (the bad news for me was that it was in the tight spot in back and required professional replacement)
I have a Dacor 85136 Oven. The bake and broil elements will not come on. The Convection element in the back will come on. I have tried to change out the bake and broil element and have tried to bypass the limit switch to see if that was causing it but have completely struck out. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Most dacors have access to the relay board(s) via top access. If it's a range you'll have to remove burner assemblies. For a wall oven, pull the machine out, be sure to have something like a stool to support the bottom. Remove the top cover, and there is the board, and most likely a wiring diagram. Then you'll want to start metering from the different relays, or you may see a damaged relay.
Great tutorial but I am still stuck. I had my heat go out 9 mos ago (during covid) on the LOWER of the Renaissance RNO230S Dacor ovens after self clean (WHY doesn't the manual address this???). I totally get how to reset for the upper oven but I cannot figure out how to get the plate off of the lower oven. It is not designed the same as upper as this video states. No screws in front. Please help.
It may not have one. I'm not familiar with that particular model. I'd most likely start by pulling the oven out a bit, and seeing if that improves access, there may be some blind screws in the sides. Some machines have thermal cutouts located at the back of the unit as well. Also most machines will have a wiring diagram up top, which really spells out what your looking at.
I have a Dacor ERDE36sch/ng. The lower coil heats up on the “bake” setting. When the setting is set for convection bake and pure convection, I hear a click and the upper heating element begins to heat up. Exactly 30 seconds later, I hear another click and the upper heating element shuts off, for exactly 30 seconds, and then I hear a click signifying that the upper heating element has turned on again. I have watched the upper element cycle on and off for five complete cycles. Any thoughts on what has failed?
Is it not hitting the targeted temperature? A lot of units cycle the bake, broil, and convection elements if so equipped to achieve the proper heat ranges.
When I turn on my oven to I can no longer set the temperature. When I turn it on it automatically keeps raising the temperature up to like 555. I can not lower it. What could possibly be the issue?
Potentially a bad temperature sensor. They should meter out at 1080 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is within ohm range, then it's most likely a bad relay at the board.
Hi Todd, I have a dacor double wall oven like you are servicing. For some reason my clock button does not work to allow me to set the clock. I have seen some posts indicating I may need to replace a board. I’m curious your thoughts? Also wondering if it would be the upper board or lower board? Or if there is something else that I may need to replace?
Its tough to rule 1 out over the other. Unfortunately since samsung bought dacor the technical assistance went to almost non existant. Typically if a button does not work it is the interface, and I would also replace the communication cable if ot is not integrated with the interface. I hope that helps!
Same problem as described several times below but...I removed the high limit switch and with my olm meter tested the leads from the switch. When the red button stays fully extended (out) I get no break with continuity but when I keep the red button depressed, I get no continuity. I would have expected the opposite. Also, the red button does not reset in as I would have expected. Does it need power to allow a manual reset? Please advise.
Hi Todd, have an older dacor double wall oven and the top unit will not heat up to set point. Could this be due to the limit switch or the element itself?
High limit is the starting point on these units. Turn the breaker off. Most of them I can reach with a file through the grate to hit the reset button (if so equipped with one). If thats not it you'll have to dig in some more with your electrical meter, and start tracing contact points.
Doing a repair on the same model Dacor high limit switch. There’s not enough room to work for me. What tools or technique do you use to remove & replace the new part? Thanks
I use a small ratchet with a short phillips tip, or short 5/16 hex nut tip depending on the fasteners. Sometimes I'll use a long handled needle nose plier to help start the screws. Takes a bit of patience, but with those tools you should be able to pull it off
I have a Dacor CPS127 Electric Single Oven. The oven will turn itself 20-30s after setting the temp while preheating. Sometimes it'll do this and sometimes it'll heat up just fine. It happens with all settings. Will the reset button you showed work? Anything else I can try to diagnose the problem? Thank you!
Probably not, the reset is a high limit that cuts out when it overheats. If there are no error codes popping up, it is probably the relay board failing. However you could have bad connections at the wall junction box. Best thing to do would be to meter voltage at the oven terminals, relay board(s), and inspect all the wiring. If your metering at the power supply terminals when the oven is on, and the power is dropping out then the issue is most likely at the junction box. Only do this if you're comfortable working with live voltage, and a meter.
Dacor won't heat or broil, but display works fine. Have it narrowed down to possibly this high limit or a control board issue. The oven smelt weird when it was used for a month before it stopped heating. Is it safe to try resetting the high limit switch first? If I do that and its more of a control board issue would resetting the high limit switch not fix the issue and give me my answer, or would it work temporarily and then just trigger the high limit again at some point?
Strong possibility that's what it is. Read the voltage with a meter at each leg of the high limit. It should have 120 volts, or thereabouts passing through at all times. If it doesn't it needs to be reset, if it does it may have a bad relay board.
@@toddolsen995 Thanks for your help! I took out the oven tonight and a relay on the main control board was fried, so the problem wasn't with the high limit switch. Do you have a recommended place to order a new one from online? It looks like Dacor no longer makes them, and the oven is 13 years old. the part is Dac 92028
@@jhawkku723 perhaps Ebay. Try repair clinic to verify the correct part number, and pictures. If no luck at either of those, try calling corecentrix , which is a rebuild service. Or if you're competent with a solder gun, and can locate the correct relay, that may work as well.
I have a Dacor "er48dsch" range/ovens. there is an error code F32. the ovens do not operate after attempting to run a self cleaning cycle. the limit switch was not tripped. Any ideas?
It will most likely need a new keypad. It's best to pull it apart to inspect the communication cable, and connections. It may be a ribbon cable on that model. If those look ok, you'll have to replace the keypad.
Todd, I have been playing with broil/bake buttons to get the oven to heat and it has worked intermittently but it's frustrating each time i need to bake, it takes me 20 min to get it to work. Are you an active technician by any chance?
@@toddolsen995 thanks! I turn it on and set a temp to heat up to. Normally it shows a base temp and that’s always been 135F. It then heats up to the desired temp. Now however, it doesn’t. I have to alternately press the broil /bake buttons to get it to kick in and start heating. If I put it on bake it just shows 135F for a few seconds and does nothing.
Possibly. Temperature sensor is the rod looking thing protruding from the back of the oven. Either the upper corners, or commonly on dacors the top center. Turn the breaker off, and remove the 2 screws. It can be a bit tricky, and may not want to come out, (wiring, and or harness may get snagged.) Exercise patients, and try to fish the sensor, and harness out, otherwise you'll have to pull the oven out. I have cut, and spliced new sensors in very carefully, but if you don't feel comfortable splicing tiny wires, and getting a good tight connection I don't recommend doing that.
@@toddolsen995 Thanks for responding. I spot it in the upper right corner pointed toward the door. Held in by two small screws. I probably would not cut and splice, so if it didn't come out cleanly and disconnect at the terminals I'd just use the bottom oven until I could get a service person out here. And yes, I know to take safety precautions like turning the breaker off, but appreciate the warning!
F2 is a runaway heat error. Check the oven temp sensor. Should be 1080 ohms at room temperature, if its not, replace it, and there's the issue. If it is not you'll have to pull the oven out to access the relay board typically from the top of the oven. Check the wiring that goes to the temperature sensor for proper ohm value, melted wires, or harness. If that all checks ok, you will need to replace the relay board. It is common for the wire harness near the temp sensor to melt.
I use dental pick type tools, think smaller than a screwdriver to finegal the latch open between the door panels. A coat hanger may suffice though. First try cycling the breaker, turn power off for a minute or so, then turn it back on. Sometimes the lock motor will get hung up. If that doesn't work, then you'll have to get something between the door to push the latch to the side.
Thank you Todd. Didn’t even know about the high limit switch thanks to you I “fixed” in in under 5 minutes. Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with the world.
Hello Todd, thanks for the video. I was wondering where the overtemp switch was located. I probably would have never found it if it wasn't for your video. I'm glad there was a schematic located in with the relay board area. I troubleshoot it to the overtemp switch but could find the location of it. You save me a lot time and grief. Once again thank you for posting the video.
Thank You for this video & advice! The lower oven needed the High-Limit button reset.
Is there a separate limit switch for the top and bottom? My top oven heats but not the bottom.
@@mhash621 It appears there is only one High-limit button that can be reset. The button/switch is located above the top oven. I just opened the access area above the lower oven, and there is no high-limit button/switch that I can see. Reset the High-limit button/switch above the top oven and hopefully it will reset both the top and bottom oven enabling you to heat your lower oven again!
Great thanks. I replaced my top one and all is fine again, so far 🙂👍
Reset the button on my decora was all I needed to do thank you so much or this video your advise helped me tremendously. Thank you so much.
Huge help-- thank you so much!!
My Dacor slide in oven range doesn’t have a self clean function. Now the oven door is out of alignment, my husband says that would make it get too hot and flip the resettable high limit button. I’m wondering if my canning activities on the stove top wouldn’t make it too hot and flip the reset button? I’ve two xtra large canners and I can a lot in the summer, daily for several weeks, canning produce out of our garden. We purchased a new high limit button today, we have had to reset it several times over that past few years. We will get new hinge kits to get the door right too. Thanks for your videos! Good job.
Each time the high limit is reset it lowers the efficacy temperature of the high limit, meaning it will be more sensitive. So, yes it is a good idea to replace those if they trip regularly.
Hi Todd, Great video!! I have a Dacor MORD230 Double Wall Oven, and recently the lower oven started overheating. Seems like when it reaches the set temperature, it does not stop heating. I can hear a relay click, the element turns off, but then turns right back on again. Any thoughts as to what this could be? The upper oven works just fine. Thanks for your feedback.
Hey Todd, can you post more videos on fixing different error codes. Thank you so much. You are very helpful!
Thank you for the kind words. Yes I will try, it kind of depends on what I see in the field though.
It works very well.
Todd -- thanks so much for posting this! My symptom is that, post auto-clean, the oven does still heat up, but it will not heat up over 350 degrees. Can a tripped limit switch cause this behavior? Thanks.
Most likely not. Can be a variety of things. If the temperature sensor is not roughly 1080 ohms at room temperature, or not a consistent 240 volts at the power lugs it could be the relay board. That is the jist, excluding the basics, as, are both elements ok if applicable? Or , if applicable is the broil circuit/assembly working?
Hi don't know if your checking messages on here still but I'm just a Mom with a Dacor Oven that has not worked for 8 months. With holidays approaching I really need to figure this out. A repair guy came a long time ago and quoted me $2600 for new relay board and something else. I about fainted. The oven stopped working when I had guests over with the broil unit on and forgot about it. Think the oven got too hot. What does work is the behind the back 'wall' and so the oven can get to about 260-270 degrees but top and bottom element do not work. Anyway, I tried to reset that red button but dang its in a hard place to reach....do i keep pressing hard on it? I cannot pay the money for the repair so i have to figure this out 😞 Thnak you....Jana
No. If the red button is set, and voltage is passing through the limit which sounds like it does you will need a new control board for that. Thing is before you order that it will be necessary to meter voltage at certain points to confirm this. If your not familiar with how to meter voltage safely it will be necessary to hire a technician, or potentially replace the unit.
Just watched your video and those Dacor ovens look identical to ours (Model ECD230). The issue we're having is with the top unit where the broiler element (top) works, but the bottom one does not. I've tried resetting (red button) the 'high limits' but that didn't make any difference. My first thought was that the element might need to be replaced, but there's no apparent damage to it...it's not broken. One person I spoke with suggested that if the element appears to be fine, then that's probably not the problem. Instead, they suggest that the problem MAY be the relay board. Obviously, you have experience with Dacor wall ovens, so I'm hoping for some advice from you.
1. How difficult is it to replace the relay board. Does the oven have to be removed from the cabinet...and if so, how difficult is that to do? Is it a 2-person job?
2. Our oven was manufactured in December 2003...I think it was late 2004 before it was installed. Either way, it does have some age on it. But, considering how expensive those things are, I thought it would last a lifetime! But, would you recommend repairing it (the part itself is nearly $450) or, considering it's age, would you replace it?
The bottom unit works great...no problems at all...so it seems wasteful to replace the entire thing. But, that's why I'm looking for some educated recommendation.
Thank you!
It can be a bit tricky to pull these machines out. I use a hydraulic table cart. But a sturdy wooden box would suffice. You may not need to though. First it would be worth it to pull out the element even if it does look ok. Sometimes the connectors blow off the back. First kill the power via breaker, then unscrew the element vert carefully pull the element out. Most of the time the wiring to the element is very taunt and if one slips off while doing this then you have to pull the whole machine out. That being said, check continuity at the element, and the connections. If there loose or damaged, that can be the problem. Now is also a good time to meter for voltage. If the wiring is too tight that may not be safely possible though. If not you'll have to get access to the relay board, and check that out. Basically, the easiest way to inspect the board is to gain access to it, and inspect it closely. From the top, look at the relays, which are the usually black boxes on the board, and if one of them is damaged or melted looking, that's the issue. If that's not visible, then you can remove the board, and inspect the underside for failures, usually a charred mark around one of the solders.
Hope that helps, and good luck with your repair !
Hi Tood. Thank you for the video. I, like others experienced a problem after a self clean on my Dacor MCS127 wall oven. The broiler element works but the bake element does not. We tested the back element and it is fine. When attempted to reset it (as I had done before just fine) the button didn't click. If the high limit button is faulty would that cause just the bake element to fail and not the broil element? I am panicking just a bit because I will need a working oven for Christmas meals.
Sounds like it is an issue with the relay board. Typically the high limit is wired through both bake, and broil circuits. I'd meter the high limit, and bake element from the relay board, then meter at the bake relay itself. You would need to follow the wire diagram on the unit. Hope that helps!%
Hi Todd, I have a Dacor Double Oven from around '92-'93. When I turn it on (lower oven) and set a temperature, it makes a click and it shows 135 F but it then turns off. I can't get it to heat. What could be causing it? Thank you!
It may be the resetable high limit, that does sound fairly warm for that though. It's a good idea to ohm out the temperature sensor before testing for any heat. Sensor should read around 1080 ohms at room temperature. If it's neither of those two items you will most likely need to replace the relay board.
Oven replacement door
Hi, just finding this now! We have a dacor warming drawer below GE wall ovens. No heat. Any suggestions on how to fix it, or diagnose it? They are much more expensive than I thought! Thank you-
They may have an internal reset able thermostat similar to several of their manufactured ovens. You'd have to pull it out, take it apart, and start applying electrical metering tests to it.
Nice video, my dacor oven only heats up to 213 degrees after 20 minutes. There is a fan running inside. I could see a faint red light from heating element which is located behind/under a glass panel in bottom of oven.
Some of those infrared elements have an inner and outer coil. I would be looking at ohm values for the element, and temperature probe. Probes ate generally 1080 ohms at room temperature, values for the element will vary. Wiring diagram that is with the machine, probably near the control electronics inside the top of the unit. If those values are ok, I'd check the other elements, and then the voltage outputs to those components.
@@toddolsen995 I am going to see if there is a schematic/diagram on the unit. Since both broil, convection bake and conventional bake all aren't working seems unlikely this would be lower heating element is defective. I am guessing control board or relay board since temp limit switch was ok. When I select preheat the round circular round fan comes on, unit heats up somewhat, very slowly but top element and bottom element never glow red like they are supposed to.
@@jimw6991 most units utilize ,and toggle between other elements to achieve proper temps. 1st check your temp sensor, and meter the proper legs for the bake element from the control area. Also inspect the relay board for blowouts. You'll still need to meter everything possible to make sure your not overlooking something
Hi Todd- I have a Dacor ERD36SBK range and in the convection bake mode the temperature will get up to the right temperature but then after a few minutes it will start dropping down. It does work fine in the convection only mode. I thought the bake element might be broke so I did replace it but still have the same issue. Any advice? Thanks!
The ohm values of the temperature sensor should read around 1080 ohms at room temperature, and should be a steady reading on your meter. I would also meter the broil element if it has one. Other than that I would be live metering from the controller while in use. Some dacors have a gas broiler, so it may need a new ignitor. Tough to say from afar on that one.
Hi Todd, I thought for sure this was the problem but no luck. I even jumped out the switch after it wouldn't reset. We have power (clock is on unit acts like it should otherwise). No heat on either coil (broil or bake) and now its not the reset switch. What is next the control board? It's a Dacor single wall oven from 2007. Thank you!
Probably a bad relay at the relay board. Most Dacors are accessible by removing the top panel on the wall oven, range units are a bit more involved. You will want to meter the voltage values accurately though. It could also be a blown or damaged wire somewhere.
@@toddolsen995 thank you. I will check it out. We were noticing some weird sparking that seemed to be coming from inside the oven (bottom coil) from time to time. Not sure if that would have been related.
I have a Dacor oven similar to the one in the video. The bake element burned out (with the requisite explosion) and I replaced it. put everything back together and still have no heat from the bake element. After researching (and watching this video) I tried resetting the high limit switch. It's in a challenging spot for me and while I'm pretty sure I reset it, I'm not certain. In this video, you say you checked the voltage on the sensor. When I check mine, I only get voltage when the oven is "on" (no heat from the bake element of course). Should voltage be passing through the switch at all times? I'm stumped.
There all a bit different, but typically you should be able to meter the voltage going through the high limit. If your high limit is in the tight space above the oven you'll have to confirm that you have proper contact between the meter, and the actual high limit. You should have between 105 and 120 volts. If that reads ok, you'll have to access the relay board, and look for damaged wiring or relay (typically black burned out mark)
@@toddolsen995 Thanks so much, the high limit switch had burned out, replacing it got my oven working again! (the bad news for me was that it was in the tight spot in back and required professional replacement)
I have a Dacor 85136 Oven. The bake and broil elements will not come on. The Convection element in the back will come on. I have tried to change out the bake and broil element and have tried to bypass the limit switch to see if that was causing it but have completely struck out. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Most dacors have access to the relay board(s) via top access. If it's a range you'll have to remove burner assemblies. For a wall oven, pull the machine out, be sure to have something like a stool to support the bottom. Remove the top cover, and there is the board, and most likely a wiring diagram. Then you'll want to start metering from the different relays, or you may see a damaged relay.
Great tutorial but I am still stuck. I had my heat go out 9 mos ago (during covid) on the LOWER of the Renaissance RNO230S Dacor ovens after self clean (WHY doesn't the manual address this???).
I totally get how to reset for the upper oven but I cannot figure out how to get the plate off of the lower oven. It is not designed the same as upper as this video states. No screws in front.
Please help.
It may not have one. I'm not familiar with that particular model. I'd most likely start by pulling the oven out a bit, and seeing if that improves access, there may be some blind screws in the sides. Some machines have thermal cutouts located at the back of the unit as well. Also most machines will have a wiring diagram up top, which really spells out what your looking at.
I have a Dacor ERDE36sch/ng. The lower coil heats up on the “bake” setting. When the setting is set for convection bake and pure convection, I hear a click and the upper heating element begins to heat up. Exactly 30 seconds later, I hear another click and the upper heating element shuts off, for exactly 30 seconds, and then I hear a click signifying that the upper heating element has turned on again. I have watched the upper element cycle on and off for five complete cycles. Any thoughts on what has failed?
Is it not hitting the targeted temperature? A lot of units cycle the bake, broil, and convection elements if so equipped to achieve the proper heat ranges.
When I turn on my oven to I can no longer set the temperature. When I turn it on it automatically keeps raising the temperature up to like 555. I can not lower it. What could possibly be the issue?
Potentially a bad temperature sensor. They should meter out at 1080 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is within ohm range, then it's most likely a bad relay at the board.
Hi Todd, I have a dacor double wall oven like you are servicing. For some reason my clock button does not work to allow me to set the clock. I have seen some posts indicating I may need to replace a board. I’m curious your thoughts? Also wondering if it would be the upper board or lower board? Or if there is something else that I may need to replace?
Its tough to rule 1 out over the other. Unfortunately since samsung bought dacor the technical assistance went to almost non existant. Typically if a button does not work it is the interface, and I would also replace the communication cable if ot is not integrated with the interface. I hope that helps!
Same problem as described several times below but...I removed the high limit switch and with my olm meter tested the leads from the switch. When the red button stays fully extended (out) I get no break with continuity but when I keep the red button depressed, I get no continuity. I would have expected the opposite. Also, the red button does not reset in as I would have expected. Does it need power to allow a manual reset? Please advise.
Sounds like a bad high limit. They also loose their efficacy after each time they have to be reset. I'm not aware of load limit variations with these.
Thanks for you quick response Todd
Hi Todd, I have an ER36G/NG. Do you know where the reset switch is?
If so equipped their usually behind the grill above the oven cavity. Sometimes they're located behind the unit though.
Hi Todd, have an older dacor double wall oven and the top unit will not heat up to set point. Could this be due to the limit switch or the element itself?
High limit is the starting point on these units. Turn the breaker off. Most of them I can reach with a file through the grate to hit the reset button (if so equipped with one). If thats not it you'll have to dig in some more with your electrical meter, and start tracing contact points.
Doing a repair on the same model Dacor high limit switch. There’s not enough room to work for me. What tools or technique do you use to remove & replace the new part? Thanks
I use a small ratchet with a short phillips tip, or short 5/16 hex nut tip depending on the fasteners. Sometimes I'll use a long handled needle nose plier to help start the screws. Takes a bit of patience, but with those tools you should be able to pull it off
Todd Olsen Ok cool, I’ll try that. Thanks!
I have a Dacor CPS127 Electric Single Oven. The oven will turn itself 20-30s after setting the temp while preheating. Sometimes it'll do this and sometimes it'll heat up just fine. It happens with all settings. Will the reset button you showed work? Anything else I can try to diagnose the problem? Thank you!
Probably not, the reset is a high limit that cuts out when it overheats. If there are no error codes popping up, it is probably the relay board failing. However you could have bad connections at the wall junction box. Best thing to do would be to meter voltage at the oven terminals, relay board(s), and inspect all the wiring. If your metering at the power supply terminals when the oven is on, and the power is dropping out then the issue is most likely at the junction box. Only do this if you're comfortable working with live voltage, and a meter.
@@toddolsen995 i appreciate the suggestion and quick response. i'll try that out. thank you!!
Dacor won't heat or broil, but display works fine. Have it narrowed down to possibly this high limit or a control board issue. The oven smelt weird when it was used for a month before it stopped heating. Is it safe to try resetting the high limit switch first? If I do that and its more of a control board issue would resetting the high limit switch not fix the issue and give me my answer, or would it work temporarily and then just trigger the high limit again at some point?
Strong possibility that's what it is. Read the voltage with a meter at each leg of the high limit. It should have 120 volts, or thereabouts passing through at all times. If it doesn't it needs to be reset, if it does it may have a bad relay board.
@@toddolsen995 Thanks for your help! I took out the oven tonight and a relay on the main control board was fried, so the problem wasn't with the high limit switch. Do you have a recommended place to order a new one from online? It looks like Dacor no longer makes them, and the oven is 13 years old. the part is Dac 92028
@@jhawkku723 perhaps Ebay. Try repair clinic to verify the correct part number, and pictures. If no luck at either of those, try calling corecentrix , which is a rebuild service. Or if you're competent with a solder gun, and can locate the correct relay, that may work as well.
Is it OK to bypass it to troubleshoot
Probably ok with that. Its designed to prevent damage, and or fire due to high temperatures typically associated with self clean.
I have a Dacor "er48dsch" range/ovens. there is an error code F32. the ovens do not operate after attempting to run a self cleaning cycle. the limit switch was not tripped. Any ideas?
It will most likely need a new keypad. It's best to pull it apart to inspect the communication cable, and connections. It may be a ribbon cable on that model. If those look ok, you'll have to replace the keypad.
Todd, I have been playing with broil/bake buttons to get the oven to heat and it has worked intermittently but it's frustrating each time i need to bake, it takes me 20 min to get it to work. Are you an active technician by any chance?
I work on machines every day yes. Active service provider for Samsung/ dacor no. What is the unit doing exactly?
@@toddolsen995 thanks! I turn it on and set a temp to heat up to. Normally it shows a base temp and that’s always been 135F. It then heats up to the desired temp. Now however, it doesn’t. I have to alternately press the broil /bake buttons to get it to kick in and start heating. If I put it on bake it just shows 135F for a few seconds and does nothing.
My Dacor double oven has a u30 sensor error message on the top oven. Is this something an owner can replace? I don't want to pull the oven out.
Possibly. Temperature sensor is the rod looking thing protruding from the back of the oven. Either the upper corners, or commonly on dacors the top center. Turn the breaker off, and remove the 2 screws. It can be a bit tricky, and may not want to come out, (wiring, and or harness may get snagged.) Exercise patients, and try to fish the sensor, and harness out, otherwise you'll have to pull the oven out. I have cut, and spliced new sensors in very carefully, but if you don't feel comfortable splicing tiny wires, and getting a good tight connection I don't recommend doing that.
@@toddolsen995 Thanks for responding. I spot it in the upper right corner pointed toward the door. Held in by two small screws. I probably would not cut and splice, so if it didn't come out cleanly and disconnect at the terminals I'd just use the bottom oven until I could get a service person out here. And yes, I know to take safety precautions like turning the breaker off, but appreciate the warning!
which model is this oven? I have the same one (came with the house we bought) and I keep getting an F0 error code. Cannot find the model anywhere.
Most model numbers on dacors are above the door, behind the grate. Usually pretty dusty.
Where does one get a new high limit switch ?
Repair clinic.com is a good source for parts.
Repairclinic.com is a good source for parts.
Where would you start with an F2 error?
F2 is a runaway heat error. Check the oven temp sensor. Should be 1080 ohms at room temperature, if its not, replace it, and there's the issue. If it is not you'll have to pull the oven out to access the relay board typically from the top of the oven. Check the wiring that goes to the temperature sensor for proper ohm value, melted wires, or harness. If that all checks ok, you will need to replace the relay board. It is common for the wire harness near the temp sensor to melt.
Door is locked after accidentally hitting self clean how can we unclock?
I use dental pick type tools, think smaller than a screwdriver to finegal the latch open between the door panels. A coat hanger may suffice though. First try cycling the breaker, turn power off for a minute or so, then turn it back on. Sometimes the lock motor will get hung up. If that doesn't work, then you'll have to get something between the door to push the latch to the side.