Theres a special tool with grooves in it made by Dacor/ samsung. You can also try channelocks. Half the time we end up having to Dremel cut the rings off, and replace them. It's quite tricky though as you don't want to damage threads on the tube.
@@toddolsen995 I like that idea. I've seen where lots of people use a step bit and drill out the whole venturi and nut. I like your suggestion better. I can take my time to save 30 bucks x 3 or 4 burners. So I was looking for parts tonight and the nuts are discontinued and no longer available anywhere. Do you think I could replace the nut with the an off the shelf part from a hardware store?
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful but I'm still having some issues I could use some help with. I had the same issue with what looks like to be the same model you're working on in the video. I was able to get the two center (front and back) burners working properly. The two back corners will light but continue clicking if I don't light both burners, light them both the clicking quits. Both them the simmer flame seems to be coming out ok. Does that sound like on of the igniters is bad? The two front corners will light but the simmer flame is not working. I took apart cleaned the holes you showed with a cutting tip wire cleaner but there is now gas coming through the simmer orifice. I seen some over spill in the hole and cleaned with a q tip but it still doesn't put any gas out. How do I access the simmer orifice to clean out with a wire or tip cleaner? I thought if I removed the brass nut / tube the complete burner would lift out to access the orifice and the igniter. I tried to turn the brass nut on on of the burners to be able to remove the complete burner base but it spins free and won't loosen, the complete brass pieces will turn either way without tightening or loosening.
It sounds like the venturi nuts( brass pieces that spin) are possibly stuck in the fitting that they thread into under the cooktop, and the fitting is just spinning around. Was there excessive resistance when you started turning the nuts, then it went free? If so the gas lines are most likely damaged. This can be difficult to get apart. I've had to dremel cut these apart before, and it's a mess. I would double check the burner heads to make sure there not stuck, or caked together, and all the holes are absolutely clear before you start to pull this apart.
Most likely has a bad spark switch . You will need to access the switches that are mounted to the gas valve. Some machines are individual, and some are prewired, labeled as a spark switch harness. If there individuals you may be able to isolate the bad one by removing the power to that particular switch to diagnose. You'll have to keep removing power to the machine as you narrow it down to what switch is bad. Keep in mind the switches always have 120 volts being supplied to them, so it's not something you can work on live. It the switches are hardwired together, you'll have to replace the complete harness. In some instances the spark module, and or wiring will also need to be replaced.
Todd Olsen thanks. I’ll see what I can do. Not sure if it’s connected or not, but the metal panel on the front of the cooker gets very hot when the oven is on
Okey dokey. Well, if that doesn't do it, you'll be looking to replace a spark switch, and or the spark module. Most of the time it is a spark switch, or complete spark switch assembly. This is difficult to explain. However, if your comfortable taking the unit apart, it would be wise to order both of those parts, and replacing them. If the switches are individual you can order them all, and return the ones you don't need. Same thing with the module. Good luck 👍
How did you get it apart? I have what appears to be the same burners. That brass nut doesn't want to come off!
Theres a special tool with grooves in it made by Dacor/ samsung. You can also try channelocks. Half the time we end up having to Dremel cut the rings off, and replace them. It's quite tricky though as you don't want to damage threads on the tube.
@@toddolsen995 I like that idea. I've seen where lots of people use a step bit and drill out the whole venturi and nut. I like your suggestion better. I can take my time to save 30 bucks x 3 or 4 burners. So I was looking for parts tonight and the nuts are discontinued and no longer available anywhere. Do you think I could replace the nut with the an off the shelf part from a hardware store?
It's possible, It's a large circumference. I've never tried, but if you can find one, and potentially grind it down so it sits in there.
Looks like a two stage valve low simmer ring not igniting
Need to clean the small pin hole port by stiki g a long pin down the simmer feed chamber
No follow up video?
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful but I'm still having some issues I could use some help with.
I had the same issue with what looks like to be the same model you're working on in the video. I was able to get the two center (front and back) burners working properly. The two back corners will light but continue clicking if I don't light both burners, light them both the clicking quits. Both them the simmer flame seems to be coming out ok. Does that sound like on of the igniters is bad?
The two front corners will light but the simmer flame is not working. I took apart cleaned the holes you showed with a cutting tip wire cleaner but there is now gas coming through the simmer orifice. I seen some over spill in the hole and cleaned with a q tip but it still doesn't put any gas out. How do I access the simmer orifice to clean out with a wire or tip cleaner? I thought if I removed the brass nut / tube the complete burner would lift out to access the orifice and the igniter. I tried to turn the brass nut on on of the burners to be able to remove the complete burner base but it spins free and won't loosen, the complete brass pieces will turn either way without tightening or loosening.
It sounds like the venturi nuts( brass pieces that spin) are possibly stuck in the fitting that they thread into under the cooktop, and the fitting is just spinning around. Was there excessive resistance when you started turning the nuts, then it went free? If so the gas lines are most likely damaged. This can be difficult to get apart. I've had to dremel cut these apart before, and it's a mess. I would double check the burner heads to make sure there not stuck, or caked together, and all the holes are absolutely clear before you start to pull this apart.
that was uselee.
All of mine are clicking (without being switched on) so need to turn it off at mains
Most likely has a bad spark switch . You will need to access the switches that are mounted to the gas valve. Some machines are individual, and some are prewired, labeled as a spark switch harness. If there individuals you may be able to isolate the bad one by removing the power to that particular switch to diagnose. You'll have to keep removing power to the machine as you narrow it down to what switch is bad. Keep in mind the switches always have 120 volts being supplied to them, so it's not something you can work on live. It the switches are hardwired together, you'll have to replace the complete harness. In some instances the spark module, and or wiring will also need to be replaced.
Todd Olsen thanks. I’ll see what I can do. Not sure if it’s connected or not, but the metal panel on the front of the cooker gets very hot when the oven is on
Yep. Paper clip did the trick.
That was NOT helpful. At all.
Okey dokey. Well, if that doesn't do it, you'll be looking to replace a spark switch, and or the spark module. Most of the time it is a spark switch, or complete spark switch assembly. This is difficult to explain. However, if your comfortable taking the unit apart, it would be wise to order both of those parts, and replacing them. If the switches are individual you can order them all, and return the ones you don't need. Same thing with the module. Good luck 👍