Yup sounds like a plane on spin with some clanking during the wash. We called a repair guy and were quoted up to $1500 to repair because seal leaked and degreased the bearing and transmission may also be bad but won’t know until he opens it up. We live in a second floor condo with no space to work so he would have to take it outside and more labor intensive. It’s been 10 years and repair guy suggested getting a new one.
I've replaced a few of these, best thing to do is buy the tub assembly like you did. You just transfer the agitator & drain hose from tub to the pump. Repair done in an hour. 👍👍
Indeed, it's the only way to go. If you have the time, and space it's worth it to try, a d pull the tub apart, as sometimes they do separate. Typically though there seized together, and theres not enough room to leave the unit apart till I get the new assembly, so I quote it as a whole new assembly job.
Ok guys. Since Todd didn't include the specific part numbers, here it is. The 27" is WH45X24614 and the 24" is WH45X24615. You just measure your bottom unit ontop of the washer with the door closed. My model (GTUP240EM5WW) is 24"
Thanks for this info. I called GEParts Select in Canada. I can get the part but they can't confirm that it fits my model #. They say it's not in the parts list for my model. Should i just go on faith?
Similar technique, just more difficult. Keep monkeying it, and eventually it should go. I try and stuff towels under the motor area for additional support
Hello. Great video. My machine won't spin. How tight should belt be from the motor to the spin and agitator part. Seems like motor spins but won't engage the belt to make real spin belt just sits there...
On this style system the belt is quite tight. Sometimes these belts fall off. Typically a no spin on this unit is associated with the shifter, or gearcase
Hi Todd, my name is José I would like to know the part number for that whole entire assembly just like you just installed in your video I’m in need of few of those and where did you ordered it from thx.
You would have to call either GE parts direct, or Reliable parts.com and give them your model number to get the correct part number, pricing, and availability.
Closest video I could find to model #GUAP270EW2MM. Pretty much identical guts. Replaced tub seal, tub nut and tub cover. Transmission drive spin but def can see how it could become rusted out and seized. 80$ CAD for parts. Of note, tub nut was loose when I took it apart, like one finger spin off. Tub cover had one of screw holes for stabilizer broke. May have led to other issues. Great vid to see internals, hoping all works when I put back together.
To add, if you’re attempting to do this, the tub seal has to be removed from bottom by separating transmission/motor assembly from tub. You will wreck it if you follow other videos and try to take off from top. Remove tub/motor from space, flip over, remove motor/transmission, then remove tub seal.
How did you manage to take off the agitator? I've replaced the tub (Big Thanks!) but agitator just wont come off the old one! I took off the screw, but it just seems to be rusted in or something.. Cant tell Dont want to go about ordering new part if i can take this one off. Any advise?
Grateful for you posting this video, as I may need to do this repair when our warranty runs out soon. It's a recurring issue on this laundry center: the transmission inevitably fails and we're heading for our 2nd drum assembly/transmission replacement in as many years. How long should these new parts last? It seems a bit ridiculous to me that we need to do this repair on average every year so far.
I agree, it's very disappointing. I have voiced my opinions to GE directly As we are an authorized service provider with them. Saddly I believe what I say to them falls on deaf ears. Unfortunately these assemblies are very hit or miss based on what we see in the field as far as longevity goes. All I can say is be heard, spend the time on customer support hotline, maybe they'll send you a free replacement assembly.
We got the drum assembly replaced again under warranty. All seems to be working fine, but there's not a loud sound when the machine goes into the spin cycle. Here's a video: streamable.com/74j153. Any ideas what might be going on here? Thanks again for your help!
www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.geapplianceparts.com/store/order/shoppingcart&ved=2ahUKEwjzt5fm6r-GAxXF4MkDHZxkA60QFnoECDEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3H4QMxvU79E_L8P-2b_zoo It'd be best to check with GE parts direct as machines vary, and compatibility within the same model number is not always exact.
How do you remove the agitator. I have a bad tub seal and bought it to repair it but I'm having trouble removing the agitator. Do you just lift up on the agitator. I removed the screw under the softener cap but unable to remove it. Any advice helps. Thanks.
I got the agitator off mine by pulling the cap straight up. It’s just snapped in place for my stacker model, but that will be the least of your trouble. I too bought the tub seal and the spanner tool, because there’s a tub nut that needs to come off. Got that off with a some work and patience but then I got to where the inner tub is supposed to separate...that’s where I had to do a lot of RUclips searching just to find that manny DIYers are not able to separate the tubs. Sucks! Hope you have better luck.
It should pull right off. Older ge models utilize a splined system with snap tabs. If it's that system, a leather belt will help. Slide the belt under the agitator, and pull up.
@@kabevis1 Robert, that is the common problem with this style machine. The spin basket seizes to the transmission assembly. I have separated a few with utilizing a map gas torch. The risk of melting the basket, or tub,or both is high. That's why GE started offering the complete tub, trans, basket assembly, preassembled. From what I've seen, even if you can pull apart, and do a successful seal replacement that style transmission is on borrowed time. When the seal fails it typically leaks straight into the gearcase.
Todd Olsen, thanks for the response. Used a 20” metal bar under the lip of the tub and a car scissor jack and nothing. It probably has a over 700 lbs of pressure and nothing. Bar is even starting to bend which scares me to work so close to it. Was thinking about breaking the basket’s hub and just having that replaced but I can’t find the same part. All the ones I find online have the shaft opening larger. I was wondering if the basket replacement part was updated. Do you know?
I'm assuming your talking about the whole tub assembly? If yes, call GE, have you model, and serial info handy, and they'll lookup the right part number, and sell it too you. Or you can shop that part number through various other suppliers.
GE direct is the best way to go for this type of job. Lookups can get confusing at times, especially since it seems that not all suppliers are familiar with this complete assembly.
Hey Todd I could use some advice my washer The agitation slips two times lightly then actually agitated once then faults out also the spin runs for 10 second then faults out I put it in to diagnostic and I get a light on the spin no others the Motor has no blockage or the pulleys im just at a loss Ps I also did a transmission swap
There's a wax motor that engages the mode "fork" at the bottom of the unit. It could be that coming prematurely disengaged. I don't think I've heard of this. Have you run the diagnostic mode ? Any error codes?
@@toddolsen995 I’ve run diagnostics only error code was the spin light I checked the motor for blockages and found nothing Do you think that it could be the speed sensor on the motor? Or would you check the wax thing first?
@@michaelkreemer I'm not familiar with the diagnostic codes offhand. Referring to the tech sheet on that machine, what does the spin light error represent? Are you able to move the transmission by hand? Will the motor run without the belt on ? I have not seen the shifter "forks", or a wax motor fail on these before....but first time for everything. I have replaced a couple of the speed sensors, but I'm pretty sure there is a failure code that represents that particular issue.
Also, if you did swap the trans, double check all your wiring harnesses, and wiring for damage. Any areas that leak like these machines do I usually put di electric grease on the harness connections
You would have to call ge parts to confirm, as there is a 24 and 27 inch model. Also if you have a steel tub the replacement may only be available in a plastic only model. Not sure, but I have been faced with that dilemma. Not that it's a huge deal, but if you want the steel component you may have to do individual lookups for all the needed components which is a fairly complex lookup. GE parts department has a good lookup system, and is a great resource. Also you can cross reference the part number from them to other supply resources to price shop it.
I have the GE Unitized Spacemaker® 2.2 DOE cu. ft. Washer and 4.4 cu. ft. Model # GTUP240EM5WW Is a 24 inc , do you know if the WH45X24615 work with my model?
Possibly. If you drop the panel behind the washer lid there should be an envelope with technical information inside it. This has information to do the diagnostic testing via a series of turning knobs, and buttons. That should help diagnose the issue.
We have this in our new apartment and it is really loud. Living at the 3rd floor with hardwood floor, make me so worried about the noise. Is it normal for it to have a helicopter-like noise while it's on rinse and spin cycle?
That unit is quite noisy in a sense that it shifts, and clicks a bit. If it's louder in spin than it previously was, or leaking it most likely has a bad transmission bearing, and seal. I've seen them fail as early as 6 months old.
@@rollandjoeseph best thing to do is call ge to get the right part number lookup. There's a 24" ,and 27" model. You definitely need to confirm proper part numbers, also some units are stainless, and some plastic. I have replaced the stainless units with plastic ones, and they work fine. However I'm not familiar with their availability and part reference numbers off hand. I did a plastic one about a month ago, and I believe it was around 250 after shipping.
No problem, it's pretty straight forward at that point. Take pictures, and notes along the way. Biggest liability is taking care of the pressure tube hose. Also, stuffing some towels under the complete assembly helps relieve some of the tension on the suspension system. Suspension struts are relieved by hand using a fair amount of strength. Ones in the back are certainly a bit tricky.
I was able to get everything removed and separate the tub from the transmission. I put in new tub seal, washers, and hub nut however it is still leaking. Basically looks like it coming straight down the transmission shaft. It doesn't seem to happen with an empty load, but as I add clothes it starts and heavier stuff like towels are worse. Does this mean my bearing is shot?
The interface on the outer tub may have been compromised, I have cracked the outer tub trying to beat the spin basket apart before, some of those tubs seem more brittle, and some are somewhat malleable. That style transmission typically has a shorter shelf life. If there's any play with the transmission shaft, or if its rusted around the seal area it may not be able to create a proper seal again.
You sure explain it like it’s super difficult to repair. Your instructions and voice makes me not want to work on my washer. But when I watch other RUclips videos they make it sound easy. It must just be your voice And the way you speak.
Almost every GE laundry center of this type I see has a bad bearing. I swear. Every single one of these I see has some sort of bearing issue, bearing failures are extremely common on these models. Most people don’t even repair these. Bearing failures were quite common on the HydroWaves too, as well as even the chug chug style GE’s, but those didn’t have bearing issues nearly as often as these. GE’s newer laundry centers are definitely better and they rarely seem to have a bearing failure. The new GE laundry centers seem to be much better than these ones. All the plastic tub GE laundry centers of this type are notorious for bearing failure, and there are problem more of these with bad bearings than there are without bad bearings.
I agree. Seems like the balance to torque, or spin speed is out of wack. That was a problem with the earliest maytag front load washers. Was too much speed for the bearing assembly, and it stressed it.
@@toddolsen995 These washers are extremely hard to replace bearings on too, so many people don’t repair them. I heard you have to replace the whole tub to replace the bearing. Transmission gets stuck to the tub.
Yes. Gear case is sealed so must be replaced as an assembly. Also true that gearcase seizes to the tub. Supposedly the complete tub/ case assembly does not work on all units though. I've done a few newer models, and GE set me individual parts to do the rebuild. Not sure why, but that's how the data is provided from the manufacturer. Also not sure why they seize together. We've cut two completely apart, and it's a disaster. By the time you get near the axle everything is so hot it is a melting mess. If it's a newer model sometimes can be beat apart with a hammer and 2x4, but there all different with varying results.
@@toddolsen995 Bearing failures seem to be most common on GE and Whirlpool built machines at least for top loaders, for front loaders I’m not sure. I’ve heard that the older Maytag top loaders, like the Performa and Atlantis series are also known for bad bearings. I haven’t seen much bearing failure or foreign built machines. I’ve seen all sorts of machines with bad bearings online, I’ve seen Frigidaire, Speed Queen, Whirlpool, GE, Maytag, all of them.
Not sure offhand, your best bet would be to call ge direct for the proper part number. It is possible to use the plastic tub in place of the metal one to save some money, but you want to be certain to cross reference that as there is a 24", and 27" model.
Thank you for making the time to do this video. I’ve watched 10 this morning and this is one of the best and most helpful/informative.
Yup sounds like a plane on spin with some clanking during the wash. We called a repair guy and were quoted up to $1500 to repair because seal leaked and degreased the bearing and transmission may also be bad but won’t know until he opens it up. We live in a second floor condo with no space to work so he would have to take it outside and more labor intensive. It’s been 10 years and repair guy suggested getting a new one.
Great Video! Posting the model and part numbers in the description would be helpful though. Cheers
I've replaced a few of these, best thing to do is buy the tub assembly like you did. You just transfer the agitator & drain hose from tub to the pump. Repair done in an hour. 👍👍
Indeed, it's the only way to go. If you have the time, and space it's worth it to try, a d pull the tub apart, as sometimes they do separate. Typically though there seized together, and theres not enough room to leave the unit apart till I get the new assembly, so I quote it as a whole new assembly job.
How long do the replacements last is the same thing gonna happen again also how much does that whole assembly cost?
Ok guys. Since Todd didn't include the specific part numbers, here it is. The 27" is WH45X24614 and the 24" is WH45X24615.
You just measure your bottom unit ontop of the washer with the door closed. My model (GTUP240EM5WW) is 24"
When I look up the 27" version of the part everything is $400+ I thought $100. What gives
@@YoungKalifornia1 he said it was $100 for shipping
@@joebachmann7757 from Jupiter? Anywho, I figured mine out it was just the belt.. 14 bucks but it took me 2 hours 😂😂
Thanks for this info. I called GEParts Select in Canada. I can get the part but they can't confirm that it fits my model #. They say it's not in the parts list for my model. Should i just go on faith?
Thank you, this was my first question. LOL
Thanks Todd for the info. How do you disconnect the 2 rear supports. The front ones are easy enough.
Similar technique. The more you can lift up the better. I know easier said than done. Keep monkeying it, and should eventually get it
Similar technique, just more difficult. Keep monkeying it, and eventually it should go. I try and stuff towels under the motor area for additional support
Awesome video, I was going out on one of these and this helps out alot, def subbed
Awesome, thank you!
Hello. Great video. My machine won't spin. How tight should belt be from the motor to the spin and agitator part. Seems like motor spins but won't engage the belt to make real spin belt just sits there...
On this style system the belt is quite tight. Sometimes these belts fall off. Typically a no spin on this unit is associated with the shifter, or gearcase
Hi Todd, my name is José I would like to know the part number for that whole entire assembly just like you just installed in your video I’m in need of few of those and where did you ordered it from thx.
You would have to call either GE parts direct, or Reliable parts.com and give them your model number to get the correct part number, pricing, and availability.
Closest video I could find to model #GUAP270EW2MM. Pretty much identical guts. Replaced tub seal, tub nut and tub cover. Transmission drive spin but def can see how it could become rusted out and seized. 80$ CAD for parts. Of note, tub nut was loose when I took it apart, like one finger spin off. Tub cover had one of screw holes for stabilizer broke. May have led to other issues. Great vid to see internals, hoping all works when I put back together.
To add, if you’re attempting to do this, the tub seal has to be removed from bottom by separating transmission/motor assembly from tub. You will wreck it if you follow other videos and try to take off from top. Remove tub/motor from space, flip over, remove motor/transmission, then remove tub seal.
Thanks for sharing Luke!
How did you manage to take off the agitator? I've replaced the tub (Big Thanks!) but agitator just wont come off the old one! I took off the screw, but it just seems to be rusted in or something.. Cant tell Dont want to go about ordering new part if i can take this one off. Any advise?
agitator should pull right off. We have had a couple that were epoxied on in addition to the fastening bolt though, and those can be a bear to get off
Grateful for you posting this video, as I may need to do this repair when our warranty runs out soon. It's a recurring issue on this laundry center: the transmission inevitably fails and we're heading for our 2nd drum assembly/transmission replacement in as many years. How long should these new parts last? It seems a bit ridiculous to me that we need to do this repair on average every year so far.
I agree, it's very disappointing. I have voiced my opinions to GE directly As we are an authorized service provider with them. Saddly I believe what I say to them falls on deaf ears. Unfortunately these assemblies are very hit or miss based on what we see in the field as far as longevity goes. All I can say is be heard, spend the time on customer support hotline, maybe they'll send you a free replacement assembly.
We got the drum assembly replaced again under warranty. All seems to be working fine, but there's not a loud sound when the machine goes into the spin cycle. Here's a video: streamable.com/74j153. Any ideas what might be going on here? Thanks again for your help!
Hello! Where can I order this whole set! My washer is having the same problem.
www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.geapplianceparts.com/store/order/shoppingcart&ved=2ahUKEwjzt5fm6r-GAxXF4MkDHZxkA60QFnoECDEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3H4QMxvU79E_L8P-2b_zoo
It'd be best to check with GE parts direct as machines vary, and compatibility within the same model number is not always exact.
1-800-851-6200 is the number for GE parts. It is best to call them for exact replacement part numbers, and availability
Is the GE stackable all electric or gas and is it 120 or 240
They make them in both styles.
@@toddolsen995 thank you
It would be good if provided the part #
How do you remove the agitator. I have a bad tub seal and bought it to repair it but I'm having trouble removing the agitator. Do you just lift up on the agitator. I removed the screw under the softener cap but unable to remove it. Any advice helps. Thanks.
I got the agitator off mine by pulling the cap straight up. It’s just snapped in place for my stacker model, but that will be the least of your trouble. I too bought the tub seal and the spanner tool, because there’s a tub nut that needs to come off. Got that off with a some work and patience but then I got to where the inner tub is supposed to separate...that’s where I had to do a lot of RUclips searching just to find that manny DIYers are not able to separate the tubs. Sucks! Hope you have better luck.
It should pull right off. Older ge models utilize a splined system with snap tabs. If it's that system, a leather belt will help. Slide the belt under the agitator, and pull up.
@@kabevis1
Robert, that is the common problem with this style machine. The spin basket seizes to the transmission assembly. I have separated a few with utilizing a map gas torch. The risk of melting the basket, or tub,or both is high. That's why GE started offering the complete tub, trans, basket assembly, preassembled. From what I've seen, even if you can pull apart, and do a successful seal replacement that style transmission is on borrowed time. When the seal fails it typically leaks straight into the gearcase.
Todd Olsen, thanks for the response. Used a 20” metal bar under the lip of the tub and a car scissor jack and nothing. It probably has a over 700 lbs of pressure and nothing. Bar is even starting to bend which scares me to work so close to it. Was thinking about breaking the basket’s hub and just having that replaced but I can’t find the same part. All the ones I find online have the shaft opening larger. I was wondering if the basket replacement part was updated. Do you know?
@@kabevis1
What's the model number?
So where do u order that huge part. And how much is it
I'm assuming your talking about the whole tub assembly? If yes, call GE, have you model, and serial info handy, and they'll lookup the right part number, and sell it too you. Or you can shop that part number through various other suppliers.
How do i get the plastic teeth to line up sounds awful
They should line up automatically when the machine engages
Where did you order from? I can't find it cheaper than $400
GE direct is the best way to go for this type of job. Lookups can get confusing at times, especially since it seems that not all suppliers are familiar with this complete assembly.
Hey Todd I could use some advice my washer
The agitation slips two times lightly then actually agitated once then faults out also the spin runs for 10 second then faults out
I put it in to diagnostic and I get a light on the spin no others the Motor has no blockage or the pulleys im just at a loss
Ps I also did a transmission swap
There's a wax motor that engages the mode "fork" at the bottom of the unit. It could be that coming prematurely disengaged. I don't think I've heard of this. Have you run the diagnostic mode ? Any error codes?
@@toddolsen995 I’ve run diagnostics only error code was the spin light I checked the motor for blockages and found nothing
Do you think that it could be the speed sensor on the motor? Or would you check the wax thing first?
@@michaelkreemer I'm not familiar with the diagnostic codes offhand. Referring to the tech sheet on that machine, what does the spin light error represent? Are you able to move the transmission by hand? Will the motor run without the belt on ? I have not seen the shifter "forks", or a wax motor fail on these before....but first time for everything. I have replaced a couple of the speed sensors, but I'm pretty sure there is a failure code that represents that particular issue.
Also, if you did swap the trans, double check all your wiring harnesses, and wiring for damage. Any areas that leak like these machines do I usually put di electric grease on the harness connections
What is the part # for that whole tub,motor,trans assembly?
You would have to call ge parts to confirm, as there is a 24 and 27 inch model. Also if you have a steel tub the replacement may only be available in a plastic only model. Not sure, but I have been faced with that dilemma. Not that it's a huge deal, but if you want the steel component you may have to do individual lookups for all the needed components which is a fairly complex lookup. GE parts department has a good lookup system, and is a great resource. Also you can cross reference the part number from them to other supply resources to price shop it.
@@toddolsen995 hi Todd, thank you for the advice. I'm on the GE sight now, but how do I know if my tub is 24" or 27"?
At $400 for the part and $100 for shipping, plus the fee you charge for the repair, I expect this ends up at ~70% of a new unit price?
It can be, depending on how much there selling for
I have the GE Unitized Spacemaker® 2.2 DOE cu. ft. Washer and 4.4 cu. ft.
Model # GTUP240EM5WW
Is a 24 inc , do you know if the WH45X24615 work with my model?
Best way to go it is to call GE parts department, and they will give you current part numbers, or substitute if applicable, pricing,etc...
hey todd....when i go to spin only or quick rinse, nothing happens...lid lock light not on...bad lid lock??...everything else works on machine....
Possibly. If you drop the panel behind the washer lid there should be an envelope with technical information inside it. This has information to do the diagnostic testing via a series of turning knobs, and buttons. That should help diagnose the issue.
Question do you know how to remove the agitator?
Its held on by i believe a 3/8" bolt
Where do I find that part number for a GUD24ESSM1WW
Reliable parts.com will have the proper part lookup information, it would be best to call them
Ge has had this issue for at least 30 yrs on previous model....
We have this in our new apartment and it is really loud. Living at the 3rd floor with hardwood floor, make me so worried about the noise.
Is it normal for it to have a helicopter-like noise while it's on rinse and spin cycle?
That unit is quite noisy in a sense that it shifts, and clicks a bit. If it's louder in spin than it previously was, or leaking it most likely has a bad transmission bearing, and seal. I've seen them fail as early as 6 months old.
How much for the tub assembly?
@@rollandjoeseph best thing to do is call ge to get the right part number lookup. There's a 24" ,and 27" model. You definitely need to confirm proper part numbers, also some units are stainless, and some plastic. I have replaced the stainless units with plastic ones, and they work fine. However I'm not familiar with their availability and part reference numbers off hand. I did a plastic one about a month ago, and I believe it was around 250 after shipping.
@@toddolsen995 Mine lasted 10 years, its a 2011 model, and failed today, 2021. Not so bad, but a pain to replace if your not handy I guess.
I watched this video solely for the removal of the tub assembly from the cabinet and you didn’t show it!!!
No problem, it's pretty straight forward at that point. Take pictures, and notes along the way. Biggest liability is taking care of the pressure tube hose. Also, stuffing some towels under the complete assembly helps relieve some of the tension on the suspension system. Suspension struts are relieved by hand using a fair amount of strength. Ones in the back are certainly a bit tricky.
@@toddolsen995 I broke the plastic part of the motor pulley trying to get the back supports, so, yeah thanks.
Thank you
I was able to get everything removed and separate the tub from the transmission. I put in new tub seal, washers, and hub nut however it is still leaking. Basically looks like it coming straight down the transmission shaft. It doesn't seem to happen with an empty load, but as I add clothes it starts and heavier stuff like towels are worse. Does this mean my bearing is shot?
The interface on the outer tub may have been compromised, I have cracked the outer tub trying to beat the spin basket apart before, some of those tubs seem more brittle, and some are somewhat malleable. That style transmission typically has a shorter shelf life. If there's any play with the transmission shaft, or if its rusted around the seal area it may not be able to create a proper seal again.
What is the part number
It's best to call the manufacturer as part numbers change frequently, and not all models spec the same part.
You sure explain it like it’s super difficult to repair. Your instructions and voice makes me not want to work on my washer. But when I watch other RUclips videos they make it sound easy. It must just be your voice And the way you speak.
Almost every GE laundry center of this type I see has a bad bearing. I swear. Every single one of these I see has some sort of bearing issue, bearing failures are extremely common on these models. Most people don’t even repair these. Bearing failures were quite common on the HydroWaves too, as well as even the chug chug style GE’s, but those didn’t have bearing issues nearly as often as these. GE’s newer laundry centers are definitely better and they rarely seem to have a bearing failure. The new GE laundry centers seem to be much better than these ones. All the plastic tub GE laundry centers of this type are notorious for bearing failure, and there are problem more of these with bad bearings than there are without bad bearings.
I agree. Seems like the balance to torque, or spin speed is out of wack. That was a problem with the earliest maytag front load washers. Was too much speed for the bearing assembly, and it stressed it.
@@toddolsen995 These washers are extremely hard to replace bearings on too, so many people don’t repair them. I heard you have to replace the whole tub to replace the bearing. Transmission gets stuck to the tub.
Yes. Gear case is sealed so must be replaced as an assembly. Also true that gearcase seizes to the tub. Supposedly the complete tub/ case assembly does not work on all units though. I've done a few newer models, and GE set me individual parts to do the rebuild. Not sure why, but that's how the data is provided from the manufacturer. Also not sure why they seize together. We've cut two completely apart, and it's a disaster. By the time you get near the axle everything is so hot it is a melting mess. If it's a newer model sometimes can be beat apart with a hammer and 2x4, but there all different with varying results.
@@toddolsen995 Bearing failures seem to be most common on GE and Whirlpool built machines at least for top loaders, for front loaders I’m not sure. I’ve heard that the older Maytag top loaders, like the Performa and Atlantis series are also known for bad bearings. I haven’t seen much bearing failure or foreign built machines. I’ve seen all sorts of machines with bad bearings online, I’ve seen Frigidaire, Speed Queen, Whirlpool, GE, Maytag, all of them.
Whirpool washing machine does not go from one cycle to n3x
Description is a bit brief, perhaps try unplugging the. Plugging back in
What is the part # for that whole tub,motor,trans assembly?
Not sure offhand, your best bet would be to call ge direct for the proper part number. It is possible to use the plastic tub in place of the metal one to save some money, but you want to be certain to cross reference that as there is a 24", and 27" model.