@@Joey856721 Negative. There is no fitting these brakes on a 17" wheel. As mentioned in the video, some 18" might have fitment issues as well, but most should be fine.
Did I miss where the model or part numbers of these calipers were provided? Some part numbers in the description of the video would really add to the value of the video.
Couple of things. You need to use the stock c5 caliper bolts. The stock c5 bolts are 48.5mm long. Those new bolts for that caliper on the ats are 45mm long. It’s not enough engagement into the caliper especially with the factory washer on the head and a spacer to center the caliper on the rotor is used. I had to take that gaint spacer off the head even with my stock longer bolt to feel comfortable with enough engagement into the caliper. There’s still more room for a few mm longer bolt at that. And use loctite. Second, you do not need to have the bolt in line with the holes on the brake line. There’s a small indented space on the banjo bolt where the holes are that lets fluid flow regardless of orientation. Hammering away on it with an impact, you’re extremely lucky you didn’t rip the threads out of the caliper itself or destroy the banjo bolt. Not trying to preach, just trying to save you some headache in the future.
I realized that after the fact. I usually mock up calipers without the discs on so I can get the lines on the backs of the calipers, so under normal circumstances, I would have caught that. But since I did that off of the car this time, I didn't mock up the calipers, so I didn't see that the bolts weren't run all of the way through the caliper. That being said, the Stock C5 caliper bolts aren't long enough, either. I'm also pretty sure they're not the correct thread thread pitch for these calipers. Just for kicks and giggles, I decided to try and thread them just to see, and they wouldn't thread at all. Also, these caliper bolts came with thread locker on them. Unfortunately, blue thread-locker isn't terribly reliable. Lesson learned. I did not know that about the banjo bolt. Thank you for the info. I was always taught to line the holes up. That being said, they're not actually on there as tight as you might think. This little impact isn't very powerful, and the battery was getting low. Plus, the little copper washer was what took the brunt of it.
@@ChaseFarrow right on. It’s entirely possible you damaged your threads with the other bolts. I’ve had the stock caliper bolts on mine for number of miles and a few autocross events. Working fine. Thread in easy by hand. I put the orange loctite on them and they’ve been fine. Plenty enough engagement, but as I said in the original post, they could stand to be a hair longer. But they’ll work. They’re the exact same thread pitch. Only difference is length. This is evidenced by search the gm part numbers for both and looking at the specs. If you only had a few threads of engagement and torqued the hell out of the other bolts, might have gacked up the first couple threads which would explain why you can’t thread the factory bolts in. If that’s the case, those are just inserts that can be pressed out and new ones pressed in. Factory bolt is part number 14084051. Length is 48.5, thread diameter 14, thread pitch 2, thread type coarse. The bolt you’re using is part number 11611085. Length 45, threat diameter 14, threat pitch 2, thread type coarse. That’s straight from gm. Same except for 3.5mm in length.
I absolutely enjoyed that video and the information you put put there. I am extremely happy that you are ok and the car is an easy fix. Thank you and looking forward to a few more of your informative videos. Later
I have the same setup except with 2 piece rotors. 18" wheels a must and u may need to use 8mm spacers with most wheels. Secondly, the calipers must be grinded on the inside or they will rub against the rotor. Third, the pads do hang yes, cause they are meant for 14.5" rotors, but no option for that. It's not 'dangerous' but it will cause uneven wear. I went with EBC SR11 pads and the brakes are fucking monstrous. No fade and too much braking that my 275 Nankang CR-S were not enough. Going to 315 in the front this summer...and my ABS started failing.. I will need to eventually upgrade to MK60 ABS... then it will be a monster. In mean time... gotta be careful not to lock up haha...
I don't know if it's just because of my R1 rotors, but on the calipers, I found that if you kind of position the caliper in an specific way and then tighten the lower caliper bolt first, it doesn't rub against the rotor. There's less than a hair of clearance, but it doesn't rub at all.
@@ChaseFarrow hmmm I followed another dude, he has a video up too, he grinded it down pretty good and deep, I had my shop do the same. Otherwise he destroyed his stuff and it was locking up bad. I didnt take no chances and showed the shop what needs to be done. I went with EBC 2 piece rotors. I love the weight savings and that they are floating too... and the SR11 pads are metallic but sintered like bike pads, no fade, no bed in, aggressive, works good with heat and rotor sparing, but man oh man without good ABS and LOTS of tire up front its too powerful hahaa... i am going to try and bias it to the rear with the J55 caliper brackets and the larger rotor and more aggressive pads than i have right now. I need and want to go MK60 ABS
Honestly, most people choose big brake for aesthetics purposes. 😂 Me personally I love The Big brake look. Not really worried about the performance from them. They just look better. To each his own with their own build🎉
Number of issues here. This type of misinformation will lead to people damaging their car and putting their safety at risk. 1. The 14in C6 Z06 rotors are too big for the calipers. This results in the excessively tight clearances and 0.25in of pad overhang. The pad is not centered on the rotor surface. This will lead to dangerous pad taper and wear. 2. Your caliper bolt fell out because the oem 21mm caliper bracket bolts are one tine use torque to yield. Do not reuse them. 3. You are using incorect jacking locations. NEVER use the radiator core support as a jack point. Only the subframes and 4 puck locations should be used. A better option would be to use the correct c6 z06 calipers and rotors, wilwood options, or c6 z51 caliper brackets and rotors.
Just addressing point by point here: 1. I spoke with multiple actual shops as well as R1 about the clearance, and they confirmed it was good. Tight, but within an acceptable tolerance. 2. These were not the original caliper bolts. These were brand new straight from AC Delco for this specific caliper. They were not reused. Everything was also torqued to GM spec off camera before actually driving. 3. I'm aware that this is not the recommended jack location. However, both myself and a number of other people have been using the core support for years, and as long as it's not bearing the full weight of the car or being used for an extended period of time, it's perfectly fine.
@@ChaseFarrow Appreiciate clearing up the issue regarding the hardware. However it doesn't fix the issue of the caliper and rotors resulting in incorrect pad sweep. Any pad overhang is incorrect and should not be used. This setup may "work" and look good, but in no way is it correct.
@toodanderson351 I'll double check when I get home, but I think you may be thinking the 335mm J55 disc that has overhang. I know there's another guy on YT that did it with the 335mm J55 disc and it had overhang. Like I said, I'll double check, but the 355mm (14") disc from the Z06 shouldn't have any pad hang.
The C6 Z06 calipers are not made anymore and are going for crazy money, used. These may not be ideal, but they're only around $250 for both calipers, brand new.
@@ChaseFarrowbest of my knowledge and research before posting but I’m the only other guy that’s posted this mod on YT and no I didn’t use a 335mm rotor you have the correct rotor. I’d also recommend taking the calipers back off and clearance them to stop that grinding, and second blue or orange lock tight on the caliper bolts and I believe I used a longer caliper bolt.
For the rear brakes, are you reusing your old caliper and just using the J55 bracket to clear biger rotors? Or do you need new calipers to match the J55 bracket?
Thanks. The brackets are really cheap but no one seems to have them in stock. The places that do have them are charging 10x regular price. I'll probably just get the whole calipers like you did. @@ChaseFarrow
Any reason why your AFR is goes to 11.5 at WOT? I've heard of that being used for turbos but not an N/A set up. Seems very rich to me, even if you're accounting for 10% ethonal in your fuel. On the other end I see your partial throttles dip into the 16's which is lean.
It is running a bit rich at the moment because I had to temporarily throw on a different air filter while I waited for the correct one to come in, and it doesn't flow as well. The lean thing is just the gauge. For some reason it swings a lot. I've tested another gauge on there, and it doesn't do that.
Cheap spacers that dont match the centerbore of the hub are a bad idea, because they basically hang on studs, creating unbalenced rotational mass. This will put stress on the studs as well as the hub, decreasing the life of the studs and even eventually the wheel bearings. Hubcentric ones like these do not add any unbalanced rotational mass to the hub assembly, so as long as you have long enough studs to get plenty of threading for the lugs, a 10mm hubcentric spacer will not hurt one bit. Also, mine do not rub, even under full compression. I'm glad you like the stock fitment though. Definitely makes life easier. Personally, I absolutely hate tucked fitment with almost as much of a passion as I hate stance.
Will this entire kit fit on a stick fitment no spacers 17 front and 18 rears stick setup C5Z ?
Stock*
@@Joey856721 Negative. There is no fitting these brakes on a 17" wheel. As mentioned in the video, some 18" might have fitment issues as well, but most should be fine.
Did I miss where the model or part numbers of these calipers were provided? Some part numbers in the description of the video would really add to the value of the video.
Couple of things. You need to use the stock c5 caliper bolts. The stock c5 bolts are 48.5mm long. Those new bolts for that caliper on the ats are 45mm long. It’s not enough engagement into the caliper especially with the factory washer on the head and a spacer to center the caliper on the rotor is used. I had to take that gaint spacer off the head even with my stock longer bolt to feel comfortable with enough engagement into the caliper. There’s still more room for a few mm longer bolt at that. And use loctite. Second, you do not need to have the bolt in line with the holes on the brake line. There’s a small indented space on the banjo bolt where the holes are that lets fluid flow regardless of orientation. Hammering away on it with an impact, you’re extremely lucky you didn’t rip the threads out of the caliper itself or destroy the banjo bolt. Not trying to preach, just trying to save you some headache in the future.
I realized that after the fact. I usually mock up calipers without the discs on so I can get the lines on the backs of the calipers, so under normal circumstances, I would have caught that. But since I did that off of the car this time, I didn't mock up the calipers, so I didn't see that the bolts weren't run all of the way through the caliper.
That being said, the Stock C5 caliper bolts aren't long enough, either. I'm also pretty sure they're not the correct thread thread pitch for these calipers. Just for kicks and giggles, I decided to try and thread them just to see, and they wouldn't thread at all.
Also, these caliper bolts came with thread locker on them. Unfortunately, blue thread-locker isn't terribly reliable. Lesson learned.
I did not know that about the banjo bolt. Thank you for the info. I was always taught to line the holes up. That being said, they're not actually on there as tight as you might think. This little impact isn't very powerful, and the battery was getting low. Plus, the little copper washer was what took the brunt of it.
@@ChaseFarrow right on. It’s entirely possible you damaged your threads with the other bolts. I’ve had the stock caliper bolts on mine for number of miles and a few autocross events. Working fine. Thread in easy by hand. I put the orange loctite on them and they’ve been fine. Plenty enough engagement, but as I said in the original post, they could stand to be a hair longer. But they’ll work. They’re the exact same thread pitch. Only difference is length. This is evidenced by search the gm part numbers for both and looking at the specs. If you only had a few threads of engagement and torqued the hell out of the other bolts, might have gacked up the first couple threads which would explain why you can’t thread the factory bolts in. If that’s the case, those are just inserts that can be pressed out and new ones pressed in. Factory bolt is part number 14084051. Length is 48.5, thread diameter 14, thread pitch 2, thread type coarse. The bolt you’re using is part number 11611085. Length 45, threat diameter 14, threat pitch 2, thread type coarse. That’s straight from gm. Same except for 3.5mm in length.
Ford DOT 3 brake fluid has the highest boiling temp out of all the other brands of DOT 3
I absolutely enjoyed that video and the information you put put there. I am extremely happy that you are ok and the car is an easy fix. Thank you and looking forward to a few more of your informative videos. Later
Thanks man! I'll be following up on the brakes in one of my next videos!
Can you put the part number of the calipers in your description? They look great btw!!!
I have the same setup except with 2 piece rotors. 18" wheels a must and u may need to use 8mm spacers with most wheels.
Secondly, the calipers must be grinded on the inside or they will rub against the rotor.
Third, the pads do hang yes, cause they are meant for 14.5" rotors, but no option for that. It's not 'dangerous' but it will cause uneven wear.
I went with EBC SR11 pads and the brakes are fucking monstrous. No fade and too much braking that my 275 Nankang CR-S were not enough. Going to 315 in the front this summer...and my ABS started failing.. I will need to eventually upgrade to MK60 ABS... then it will be a monster. In mean time... gotta be careful not to lock up haha...
I don't know if it's just because of my R1 rotors, but on the calipers, I found that if you kind of position the caliper in an specific way and then tighten the lower caliper bolt first, it doesn't rub against the rotor.
There's less than a hair of clearance, but it doesn't rub at all.
Which 2-piece rotors did you go with??
@@ChaseFarrow hmmm I followed another dude, he has a video up too, he grinded it down pretty good and deep, I had my shop do the same. Otherwise he destroyed his stuff and it was locking up bad. I didnt take no chances and showed the shop what needs to be done. I went with EBC 2 piece rotors. I love the weight savings and that they are floating too... and the SR11 pads are metallic but sintered like bike pads, no fade, no bed in, aggressive, works good with heat and rotor sparing, but man oh man without good ABS and LOTS of tire up front its too powerful hahaa... i am going to try and bias it to the rear with the J55 caliper brackets and the larger rotor and more aggressive pads than i have right now. I need and want to go MK60 ABS
Honestly, most people choose big brake for aesthetics purposes. 😂 Me personally I love The Big brake look. Not really worried about the performance from them. They just look better. To each his own with their own build🎉
Just found your channel thanks for the info! I have subscribed
@@GHarris218 I appreciate that! Glad I could help!
Number of issues here. This type of misinformation will lead to people damaging their car and putting their safety at risk.
1. The 14in C6 Z06 rotors are too big for the calipers. This results in the excessively tight clearances and 0.25in of pad overhang. The pad is not centered on the rotor surface. This will lead to dangerous pad taper and wear.
2. Your caliper bolt fell out because the oem 21mm caliper bracket bolts are one tine use torque to yield. Do not reuse them.
3. You are using incorect jacking locations. NEVER use the radiator core support as a jack point. Only the subframes and 4 puck locations should be used.
A better option would be to use the correct c6 z06 calipers and rotors, wilwood options, or c6 z51 caliper brackets and rotors.
Just addressing point by point here:
1. I spoke with multiple actual shops as well as R1 about the clearance, and they confirmed it was good. Tight, but within an acceptable tolerance.
2. These were not the original caliper bolts. These were brand new straight from AC Delco for this specific caliper. They were not reused. Everything was also torqued to GM spec off camera before actually driving.
3. I'm aware that this is not the recommended jack location. However, both myself and a number of other people have been using the core support for years, and as long as it's not bearing the full weight of the car or being used for an extended period of time, it's perfectly fine.
@@ChaseFarrow Appreiciate clearing up the issue regarding the hardware. However it doesn't fix the issue of the caliper and rotors resulting in incorrect pad sweep. Any pad overhang is incorrect and should not be used. This setup may "work" and look good, but in no way is it correct.
@toodanderson351 I'll double check when I get home, but I think you may be thinking the 335mm J55 disc that has overhang. I know there's another guy on YT that did it with the 335mm J55 disc and it had overhang.
Like I said, I'll double check, but the 355mm (14") disc from the Z06 shouldn't have any pad hang.
The C6 Z06 calipers are not made anymore and are going for crazy money, used. These may not be ideal, but they're only around $250 for both calipers, brand new.
@@ChaseFarrowbest of my knowledge and research before posting but I’m the only other guy that’s posted this mod on YT and no I didn’t use a 335mm rotor you have the correct rotor. I’d also recommend taking the calipers back off and clearance them to stop that grinding, and second blue or orange lock tight on the caliper bolts and I believe I used a longer caliper bolt.
Awesome video man 🔥 Just subbed 👍
Thanks, man!
For the rear brakes, are you reusing your old caliper and just using the J55 bracket to clear biger rotors? Or do you need new calipers to match the J55 bracket?
I'm actually using J55 calipers, as you can get a set of them used just as cheap as the brackets alone!
Thanks. The brackets are really cheap but no one seems to have them in stock. The places that do have them are charging 10x regular price. I'll probably just get the whole calipers like you did. @@ChaseFarrow
Any reason why your AFR is goes to 11.5 at WOT? I've heard of that being used for turbos but not an N/A set up. Seems very rich to me, even if you're accounting for 10% ethonal in your fuel. On the other end I see your partial throttles dip into the 16's which is lean.
It is running a bit rich at the moment because I had to temporarily throw on a different air filter while I waited for the correct one to come in, and it doesn't flow as well.
The lean thing is just the gauge. For some reason it swings a lot. I've tested another gauge on there, and it doesn't do that.
I have never heard that it should be necessary to line up the hole in a banjo bolt, it has a recess between the 2 copper shims to make up for that
I guess you might be right. that's what I was told when I first started working on cars when I was younger, and it just stuck lol
Spacers are a bad odea..just get offsetted wheels.. I like them stock tucked won't rub from being lowered
Cheap spacers that dont match the centerbore of the hub are a bad idea, because they basically hang on studs, creating unbalenced rotational mass. This will put stress on the studs as well as the hub, decreasing the life of the studs and even eventually the wheel bearings.
Hubcentric ones like these do not add any unbalanced rotational mass to the hub assembly, so as long as you have long enough studs to get plenty of threading for the lugs, a 10mm hubcentric spacer will not hurt one bit.
Also, mine do not rub, even under full compression.
I'm glad you like the stock fitment though. Definitely makes life easier. Personally, I absolutely hate tucked fitment with almost as much of a passion as I hate stance.