@@ThexXxXxOLOxXxXx I mean they were testing to see what time they could achieve without a radiator swap, so yeah. Might just be a fan that's pulling a lot of current.
To add, upgrading each part of the brake system does the following: -Stiffer caliper gives pedal firmness and evenness of pad wear from track use (see pad taper). -Larger caliper allows it to be stiffer for cheaper, and allows larger pads to be run for endurance races. Also helps against boiling fluid but rotor should come first. Downside is larger caliper requires a larger wheel to fit - and larger diameter wheels are slower than smaller wheels. -More rotor mass reduces average temperatures around the track to keep pads cooler and within their operating temp range -Larger rotor diameter gives you more braking torque, useful for ability to threshold brake with sticky tire at high speed -Curved rotor vanes cool better than straight vanes due to their fundamental air pumping design -Harder/treated rotors last longer -More aggressive pad gives you more bite and greater temperature window. Downside is more aggressive pads make more noise and dust, need higher temperatures to work their best, and wear rotors much faster if you don’t have a transfer-layer type pad. -Fluid is pretty easy, but often misunderstood. With the car off, pump the brakes until it's as hard as can be. Then try pushing again and see how squishy it is. If it's really squishy then flush the brakes and try again. You're not going to make a stock car rock hard, so just calibrate yourself to how squishy the system is after a flush and remember that next time you think you boiled fluid. Way too often people think they boiled fluid when they actually just faded or melted a % of their pads. At a track day my brake pedal always feels like trash when I go out for lunch. That's just how the pads get after intense heat cycles - doesn't mean the fluid boiled. As you warm them back up after an intense session, they'll feel better. It's harder to boil fluid than you think. Regardless, just flush with dot 4, RBF600 or SRF if you're a baller and don't worry about it. If you're using a super aggressive track pad and STILL boil racing fluid - you absolutely need a big brake it. For street use, the biggest difference is the pad by far. None of the other parts come close to just swapping on a set of transfer-layer ceramic pads like those from carbotech or g-loc, and bedding them in correctly: by doing repeated stops until you notice significant reduction in braking power. If you stop before that, they are not bedded in properly. For a quiet pad you can use at all temperatures, get a G-loc GS-1 or a Carbotech 1521. These offer better bite than OEM pads and are super easy on rotors. For MUCH better braking performance at the cost of dust and some noise, get a G-loc R8. Not for winter use. Easy on rotors, dust is non-corrosive and torque is easy to modulate. Just doing the fronts is fine. If you track your car do both front and rear in a more aggressive compound like the R12. For front heavy cars step down for the rear. So that's R12 front and R10 rear, etc. DM me if you plan on going to the track and i'll give you better info for your specific needs. Another perfectly viable pad is Ferodo DS2500 for street/very light track use or Ferodo DS1.11 for heavy track work. The key here is research. For track use, the most important part aside from pad is the rotor. When brakes overheat, we’re talking about the pad operating over its intended operating temp range and decreasing its bite, or the fluid boiling. Both issues are solved with a larger rotor. Rotors with double the thermal mass cut temperatures in half for a given braking event. Very important. The larger diameter combined with curved vanes promotes a huge amount of air being pumped through the rotor to cool them back down before the next corner. If you just drive on the street, get a better pad. If your braking power fades throughout a track session or heavy canyon rip, also get a larger rotor. If your pads are wearing way more on the leading edge after track days, get a stiffer caliper with more pistons. Stainless brake lines only really make the pedal slightly stiffer and slightly easier to modulate, but don’t make your brakes work any better. A proper caliper and progressive track pad makes a much, much bigger modulation difference. And the biggest con of all is ‘performance rotors’. If they’re the same thickness and diameter as your current rotors, they are NOT an upgrade. Just because they look fancy doesn’t mean they do anything different. In many cases a 2-piece will be a downgrade because you lose thermal mass, and the weight savings is only a very small difference. Your money is better spent on better tires, pads and larger rotors if it applies to you. Past that, your time is better spent using a pyrometer to determine what your tire pressures and alignment should be to maximize grip. Another note: There’s no need to change brake fluid every year. Follow the manufacture’s recommendation in the manual- which is typically every 3 years. Even then, it’s not really ‘dangerous’ to leave it in longer than that. Your pedal will just get squishier and the fluid will boil/freeze at a closer-to-ambient temperatures, but for a lot of people out there, it’s not a huge problem.
@@Ingris1441 did you have to take off anything to get to 'em? on subarus that is often the case due to the god forsaken (when dealing with ignition) boxer design. i'd check everything you touched. I feel your pain. The satisfaction will be greater when you find it though!
@@fila1445 my buddy and i both owns 1994 m3's and he had a tune it now developp 450 hp and i changed brakes suspension and tires and rims and i was faster around willow springs lol
That's what most people who actually know car would first. Too many idiots boosting their cars hitting 150mph+ with 15 year old clapped out stock brakes.
When bleeding the brakes, tie the bleed line to a high point, like the top coil of the springs. This will make bleeding the air way more efficient since the air will always want to make it's way to the summit of the arc faster than the fluid will. Air is lighter than hydraulic fluid.
Anggoro Anindhito wrong show, right channel. Lowcar all day! Just got my Lowcar pin and key tag this week. The only "Highcar" considered is a budget lifted Jeep 😂
@@dorthynorton6699 Much love for Zach, don't get me wrong. I'm also the proud owner of a 1991 B-series Mazda Protégé AWD imported from Japan kuz America wasn't cool enough to get AWD and I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the motor so I can shove a big ol spinny boi under the hood. But HiLow and D-List tickle my fancy just a little bit more than money pit. My money pits are for going fast off road or a snails pace over some obstacles. If I drive something fast on the streets I get speeding tickets with careless/wreckless infractions tacked on and it's just all bad news.
“Change brake fluid every year” my family still has the stock brake fluid in our 2004 Toyota Sequoia. Safety first amiright Edit: everyone saying that they get bled when new pads are put on, yes probably, but as far as I know no has ever completely drained it and replaced the brake fluid. It probably takes a dozen pad changes to cycle it all out
Lol... good luck with that stopping when you need it... Also sounds a little fishy, never had a caliper replaced? Since you know they would have to bleed the lines and minimally you would have gotten topped off with new fluid...
@@danielsousa8151 Yeah but stock brakes are designed for stock power, if you have a modified engine with +100hp or more than stock your brakes are going to start suffering
@@VBshredder yes I agree with this wholeheartedly. I spend good money on things like tires and brakes. I got nothing more important to do than get to where I'm going and make sure I can stop when I can.
I feel that motto on a personal level. Rebuilding my motor and I've had to do quite a bit at least twice. Currently waiting for a timing kit to time the engine for the second time. We got the cams right but the crank was off. Luckily no damage when we attempted to start it.
track day test: engine overheating ... Zach "gotta see that next" next modification: Zach putting big breaks huauahhayh Still best car show on youtube!!
Top video. I admire people who take care of their neighbours and do not make noise during sleeping hours. That is very, very nice of you, Zach, and of everybody who takes care of the people around them.
I just started a channel where I break trucks in the mountains. Sometimes I run with only one break because the break lines get caught on a rocks and ripped off
sorry, I'm a brake nerd. corrections: ceramic pads are not "the best", they're for street duty when you don't wanna deal with dust, and most of them have horrible friction properties and require higher effort on the brake pedal. if you can deal with dust most organic pads make for a better braking experience for a street pad. metallic pads are for the track, the main downside about using them daily isn't no friction at cold (every track/race pad I've driven has a much higher bite at cold, even freezing temps than normal street pads), the downside is they will chew through your rotors at cold/street temps. I've made this mistake and wore out the rotors faster than the pads, by a big margin (daily got totalled so I ended up dailying a car that was supposed to be 90/10 for track/street and it was too cold outside to change the pads). A lot of modern track pads aren't even loud anymore when you get them properly bedded in. But they can become really loud when mixing compounds like switching off between track and street pads. drilled rotors were never for cooling. they're drilled for pad degassing back when race brake pads released gas when they got hot. and since race cars had them that makes them look cool. so people started putting them on their street cars. These days pad degassing isn't a thing. if you want the look go for it. if you plan to track, get slotted rotors to prolong rotor life. Another important factor not mentioned is rotor thickness. rotor thickness and vane design has the biggest impact on rotor cooling. The thicker the rotor, the more space between the 2 solid sides, the more air can get in there and cool the rotor. the vanes, which connect the 2 solid sides together act like a fan and pump air through it. curved vanes make for a more efficient fan than straight vanes. bedding track pads is important, same for aggressive street pads (the ones advertised for autox or claim they can handle light track duty). for regular street pads it doesn't matter. The BP10 is a very mild street pad. not correction but advice: its also a good idea to put brake grease on the side edges of the pad (only the backing plate, not the friction material) where it comes into contact of the caliper. thats the part of the pad and caliper that rub on each other as you engage and release the brakes. Also an important note is there's brake lube and anti-squeal paste/glue (not exactly sure what to call it). you wanna use the paste/glue stuff on pads that come with shims (typically only street pads come with these) that wrap around the pad backing plate (between the pad and shim) and brake lube where you expect movement. personally I just use high temp anti-seize for track pads. it has a higher temp rating than any brake lube I've ever seen (cause race cars don't use it, its a street car thing)
Have to agree.. Bedding of the breaks are different from manufacturer to manufacturer too. When I helped changed mine, the pads manufacturer (bendix I think) suggested to follow OEM brake bedding process, which was ATE and according to what I can find for ATE, normal braking behaviour only. No need for excessive temps or light pressure. We followed this can the brakes got better and better and is still getting better. Of course, some manufacturers recommend the hard braking too, but its usually for hard track pads.
You made a mistake, drilled *rotors* are drilled for cooling too, some cars have air channels at the bottom of the front bumper, which lets air flow into the brake rotors directly.
1:03 and from the bottom of our hearts, thank you everyone at donut for bringing us great content. u guys help so many people by showing cheaper things then having all the expensive stuff like other youtubers do. you guys are the most relatable for cheap car modding, and good information. So thank you guys, for making our days better
My car os losing break fluid to the point that I have to refill it every other day.. so I never need to change it I am basically renewing it on the go😎
Jobe should really be the only one giving advice on cars. He's not reading the night before, he's got experience backed by more experience. He's a sucker for the "look" but also tells you the cold hard truth. By far my favorite RUclips series.
You don’t have to jack up the car just open the bleeders til it’s almost empty and fill with new. Let bleed down Fill done 45min passive work tops. Empty it into an old plastic bottle. No excuses. Now you no you are no Longer ignorant. It makes you something else...
I think the reason why Donut Media is so liked is because they have a close relationship with it's viewers. They keep a close relationship with their viewers and make you feel like you're a of the projects.
Nah this sounds like that blinker fluid shit my dad tried to get me to buy at auto zone once. They looked at me like I was stupid. No my car won’t stop properly but if I pump the pedal 3 times it starts to work a little Seems good to me
I'd say it's worth it to get a brake upgrade if you have a high horsepower car that need good brakes. If you don't track your car, just get a set of OEM brakes that would be just good for daily driving.
Sidenote:clean your wheel hub when replacing rotors, the tend to build upp rust and shit you dont want clearly seen at 8:25. If not done, over time the hub gets uneven and warps the rotors faster. Love the moneypit series!
Zach has got to be one of the most chill and patient dudes in the world.... That and the fact that he does everything twice to make sure it's done right - must make his wife the luckiest woman in the world 🥳😂
One of the reasons I love this channel so much is the connection I have with the verbiage. My wife and I throw “your mom,” into our grocery lists and at each other when we talk about stuff, be it serious stuff or casual conversation and We do it during the holidays too so my mother-in-law is confused also.
With a stock Miata you could have just put a good set of pads, steel brake lines and new brake fluid and go with it. That big brake kit would go along a turbocharged Miata. So I guess your next video will be a turbo one?? :)
This is my favorite show in Donut! Seeing actual parts being put an a vehicle and learning how it actually affects the vehicle makes it so entertaining and educational!
ChrisFix : Entertainment and teaches me how to install parts MoneyPit : Tells me what part to buy Engineering Explained: Teaches me how to calculate range (of electric car) , horsepower , torque and top speed of a carol using maths. Carwow: tells me 1/4 mile of every car Me: Doesn't have a driving license
@@atarvhegde5210, if you really want to blow your mind, try Engineering Explained. That's where you'll learn how to dyno your car with math instead of equipment.
I really fricking love monry pit, and really all of the shows on this channel, you guys never fail to encapture the emthusiasm the world need right now.
Y’all should make a video on a list of the most common tools used for working on cars so people that are just getting into it know what to get. That’s would be dope.
11:19 The most that I ever done in a car was to change a set of tires and even I know that when you're going under it you better have a backup plan in case it falls, like wheels or logs to support the weight of the car just enough so you don't get crushed.
It’s funny how his family motto is “if it’s not done twice, it’s not done right” when dad always says “you know what I hate more than doing something once? Doing it twice”
I always spring for ceramic pads. And one trick for brake fluid, instead of draining your entire brake system, just suck out what's in the reservoir with a fluid remover or turkey baster and then fill the reservoir back up. It gives the system fresh fluid and you don't have to re-bleed the brakes.
I remember going to a 4 piston caliper from a single sliding caliper on a car. Everyone that drove the car loved the feeling of the brakes. What I remember was how well the car would stop going down hill and for that reason I have always wanted Big BRAKES again. (:
I’ve been having trouble with my brakes, and have had parts changed out to still have the same issue, and I kept saying that I think the brake fluid absorbed water and needed to be changed, but people kept telling me that you don’t have to change it out unless it’s been in there for years. But hearing him recommend changing it once a year makes me think that it is indeed the brake fluid
I put drilled and slotted rotors on my '95 V6 Mustang. They were much lighter than the stock rotors, and that translated to 3-4 more MPG and a noticeable increase in acceleration! Those sweet rotors made driving my sadly underpowered Mustang a bit more fun and economical.
I recognize that kit cause I sell wilwoods all the time, that kit's only like 15-1700 an axle, now if he were going 6 or 8 piston then THAT would be expensive
@@macbook802 I don't know, I did what he did. I went with suspension goodies out the ass first and it's a blast driving down the road and taking turns at speeds I couldn't before without effort. Currently saving for a Mercracing S/C.
Donut is Donut, because the team makes great content. It's the channel that proves, it's possible to create quality content, staying commercially focused. Thank you, guys. Even overseas you make me enjoy my evenings watching your vids and set me a goal, what my own content should be like.
I have a set of Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors on my daily driver. They have over 200,000 miles on them and still are not warped. They definitely are getting thin and will be replaced next time with another set. The stock rotors would start to pulse every few thousand miles so I switched them to something that would cool down faster, apparently I'm hard on brakes or Chevy put on a set that was much to small. (Probably a bit of both)
I have a rear disc conversion kit from wilwood. Not including my new master cylinder or hard brake lines the kit set me back $1000. Miata kit is closer to 2000 for the full set
Flyin Miata sells various versions of this kit. The front and rear calipers + rotors and hardware is around $1500 if I recall correctly. For 99% of Miatas out there, it's definitely not worth it, especially at stock power. it does look nice though.
“If it’s not done twice it’s not done right!” That is a wonderful motto 😂🤣
"do it right once so you don't have to do it twice" is one I hear a LOT tho lol
Devon Lambert I have always hated the, “do it right the first time”, line.
True, always double check your work and redo what you got to
We do it Nice, cuz we do it Twice. 🙂👍
Do it right the first time.
Think twice, act once.
*Miata is popping fuses on the track and overheating*
Zach: Let’s talk about brakes!
He probably only knows how to fix stuff not how to diagnose problems.
@@ThexXxXxOLOxXxXx I mean they were testing to see what time they could achieve without a radiator swap, so yeah. Might just be a fan that's pulling a lot of current.
True hahaha
@@ThexXxXxOLOxXxXx he did it it another video 😑😑
Those brakes are orange though
"if it's not done twice it's not done right". My dad always says "there's two ways to do something, the right way and again"
I go by the "do it twice to make it nice" motto
"there are 2 ways to do things, the right way and MY WAY, they're both the same..." (John Turturro voice)
Wise man
@@phillyphil1513 to,
@@92ryanyoung In sheet metal we say it nearly the same. "We do it nice 'cause we do it twice."
**talks about overheating brakes**
"this is what it all boils down to"
*_haha nice_*
thanks for the heart donut ;)
The smug smile as it was said made it perfect lol
@@Calv_ lol
He's doing such a good Jobe on this car hehe
I hate you and i love you
-autocorrect strikes again-
i've now been made aware of the man's last name.
THATS HIS NAME!!!!!!!!!11!1!1!!1!!!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
You know what? No
Donut is actually one of those professionals that really makes solid videos
Except for the ridiculously inaccurate Mid Night Club video that was 90% misinformation.
To add, upgrading each part of the brake system does the following:
-Stiffer caliper gives pedal firmness and evenness of pad wear from track use (see pad taper).
-Larger caliper allows it to be stiffer for cheaper, and allows larger pads to be run for endurance races. Also helps against boiling fluid but rotor should come first. Downside is larger caliper requires a larger wheel to fit - and larger diameter wheels are slower than smaller wheels.
-More rotor mass reduces average temperatures around the track to keep pads cooler and within their operating temp range
-Larger rotor diameter gives you more braking torque, useful for ability to threshold brake with sticky tire at high speed
-Curved rotor vanes cool better than straight vanes due to their fundamental air pumping design
-Harder/treated rotors last longer
-More aggressive pad gives you more bite and greater temperature window. Downside is more aggressive pads make more noise and dust, need higher temperatures to work their best, and wear rotors much faster if you don’t have a transfer-layer type pad.
-Fluid is pretty easy, but often misunderstood. With the car off, pump the brakes until it's as hard as can be. Then try pushing again and see how squishy it is. If it's really squishy then flush the brakes and try again. You're not going to make a stock car rock hard, so just calibrate yourself to how squishy the system is after a flush and remember that next time you think you boiled fluid. Way too often people think they boiled fluid when they actually just faded or melted a % of their pads. At a track day my brake pedal always feels like trash when I go out for lunch. That's just how the pads get after intense heat cycles - doesn't mean the fluid boiled. As you warm them back up after an intense session, they'll feel better. It's harder to boil fluid than you think. Regardless, just flush with dot 4, RBF600 or SRF if you're a baller and don't worry about it. If you're using a super aggressive track pad and STILL boil racing fluid - you absolutely need a big brake it.
For street use, the biggest difference is the pad by far. None of the other parts come close to just swapping on a set of transfer-layer ceramic pads like those from carbotech or g-loc, and bedding them in correctly: by doing repeated stops until you notice significant reduction in braking power. If you stop before that, they are not bedded in properly.
For a quiet pad you can use at all temperatures, get a G-loc GS-1 or a Carbotech 1521. These offer better bite than OEM pads and are super easy on rotors.
For MUCH better braking performance at the cost of dust and some noise, get a G-loc R8. Not for winter use. Easy on rotors, dust is non-corrosive and torque is easy to modulate. Just doing the fronts is fine. If you track your car do both front and rear in a more aggressive compound like the R12. For front heavy cars step down for the rear. So that's R12 front and R10 rear, etc. DM me if you plan on going to the track and i'll give you better info for your specific needs. Another perfectly viable pad is Ferodo DS2500 for street/very light track use or Ferodo DS1.11 for heavy track work. The key here is research.
For track use, the most important part aside from pad is the rotor. When brakes overheat, we’re talking about the pad operating over its intended operating temp range and decreasing its bite, or the fluid boiling. Both issues are solved with a larger rotor. Rotors with double the thermal mass cut temperatures in half for a given braking event. Very important.
The larger diameter combined with curved vanes promotes a huge amount of air being pumped through the rotor to cool them back down before the next corner.
If you just drive on the street, get a better pad. If your braking power fades throughout a track session or heavy canyon rip, also get a larger rotor. If your pads are wearing way more on the leading edge after track days, get a stiffer caliper with more pistons.
Stainless brake lines only really make the pedal slightly stiffer and slightly easier to modulate, but don’t make your brakes work any better. A proper caliper and progressive track pad makes a much, much bigger modulation difference.
And the biggest con of all is ‘performance rotors’. If they’re the same thickness and diameter as your current rotors, they are NOT an upgrade. Just because they look fancy doesn’t mean they do anything different. In many cases a 2-piece will be a downgrade because you lose thermal mass, and the weight savings is only a very small difference. Your money is better spent on better tires, pads and larger rotors if it applies to you. Past that, your time is better spent using a pyrometer to determine what your tire pressures and alignment should be to maximize grip.
Another note: There’s no need to change brake fluid every year. Follow the manufacture’s recommendation in the manual- which is typically every 3 years. Even then, it’s not really ‘dangerous’ to leave it in longer than that. Your pedal will just get squishier and the fluid will boil/freeze at a closer-to-ambient temperatures, but for a lot of people out there, it’s not a huge problem.
this guy knows
+
Thanks for the info 👊
Thank you for your expertise, kind stranger!
Exactly!!
"If it's not done twice, it's not done right"
World War 1:
yes
Nice, this is pretty much the story of me working on my cars. 1. Do the job 2. Test Drive 3. Figure out what that new noise is 4. Fix the noise.
Oh grawd
@@VBshredder I I just installed new ignition coils and now theres a rattle and I'm like.....what the fuck
@@Ingris1441 it could just be a bolt that you forgot to tighten
@@Ingris1441 did you have to take off anything to get to 'em? on subarus that is often the case due to the god forsaken (when dealing with ignition) boxer design. i'd check everything you touched. I feel your pain. The satisfaction will be greater when you find it though!
I just want to say, I really appreciate how thorough Zach Jobe is when he works on cars
Jobe family motto: "If it's not done twice, it's not done right."
The wives in Zachs family must be so satisfied
lmaooo
Bahahahaha
I’m sorry bro that sounds gay
@@tussalframe7653 how does that sound gay? its literally about sleeping with women
@@hemesh6903 2020 bruh, everything is gay.
Money pit in 2020: are big brakes worth it?
Money pit in 2030: are jet engines worth it?
Lol itll be with the same miata too
lol you really think were even gonna make it past 2025?
@@valledahlgren1318 you think cause of an epidemic and a cop killing someone (I know other stuff happened) we arent gonna survive?
Pxll take a joke man
@@Jose-tp9hk bro it's sarcastic
Am i the only one who noticed the “your mom” part when they were talking about weight
Ian Thomas no
How bout a time stamp... NOT MY MOMMM!
lol I saw that too!
Why yes! Yes you were.
I saw that then went straight to the comments to see who else noticed 😂😂
Short answer: yes
Long answer: yeeeeeeees
Medium answer: yeeees
XL: YEEEEEEEEEEEEETTT
Oh Garsh
Only that way someone could see I know what's up
Invisible Bread reference
Last video: the Miata needs more power and better cooling.
This video: let's add parts to slow down faster.
True Money Pit move.
Well if you planning on adding power the first mod should be brakes, suspension and cooling
@@fila1445 my buddy and i both owns 1994 m3's and he had a tune it now developp 450 hp and i changed brakes suspension and tires and rims and i was faster around willow springs lol
It says read more but there’s nothing more to read...
That's what most people who actually know car would first. Too many idiots boosting their cars hitting 150mph+ with 15 year old clapped out stock brakes.
making the most of quality content
When bleeding the brakes, tie the bleed line to a high point, like the top coil of the springs. This will make bleeding the air way more efficient since the air will always want to make it's way to the summit of the arc faster than the fluid will. Air is lighter than hydraulic fluid.
"Does more expensive mean more better?"
Wait, wrong show...
LOL😂
Anggoro Anindhito wrong show, right channel. Lowcar all day! Just got my Lowcar pin and key tag this week. The only "Highcar" considered is a budget lifted Jeep 😂
Who agrees that money pit is the best show?? 😄😄
@@dorthynorton6699 Much love for Zach, don't get me wrong. I'm also the proud owner of a 1991 B-series Mazda Protégé AWD imported from Japan kuz America wasn't cool enough to get AWD and I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the motor so I can shove a big ol spinny boi under the hood. But HiLow and D-List tickle my fancy just a little bit more than money pit. My money pits are for going fast off road or a snails pace over some obstacles. If I drive something fast on the streets I get speeding tickets with careless/wreckless infractions tacked on and it's just all bad news.
Low car!
Love how they put "your mom" to see if you were really reading the description of unsprung weight at 8:01
Yeah, I was scrolling thru the comments to see if anyone else noticed
Yep glad i read that, almost made that mistake . Remember kids you mom = unsprung weight
“Change brake fluid every year” my family still has the stock brake fluid in our 2004 Toyota Sequoia. Safety first amiright
Edit: everyone saying that they get bled when new pads are put on, yes probably, but as far as I know no has ever completely drained it and replaced the brake fluid. It probably takes a dozen pad changes to cycle it all out
that toyota reliability
Amen to that 😂😂
Lol... good luck with that stopping when you need it... Also sounds a little fishy, never had a caliper replaced? Since you know they would have to bleed the lines and minimally you would have gotten topped off with new fluid...
Toyota: Let's go places
Tugboatpb was “Mazda” the commercial that said “zoom zoom”?
When he said hammer is our friend I thought of Jeremy Clarkson hitting the engine bay with hammer in the African special
Not the exhaust manifold
Joel Gilby so obscure but somehow I get it
@@LooseWheelFilms I remember it clearly: 'what else is electric?'
'not the exhaust manifold'
The Great African King of Ha'mma'r!
What else In here is electrical?
Not the exhaust manifold heheahahaaha
Imagine if it hits 10 million, youtube would make a custom diamond play button for the cars.
Idk seems like RUclips dgaf
that’s an idea right there
Have the done anything similar for the other yt channels that have passed 10 million subscribers?
I absolutely love hi low and money pit partly because it has Zach in them.
As James once said - "it ain't fun goin fast if you can't stop."
Tires dictate that, stock brakes are more than fine for the majority of the situations
@@danielsousa8151 Yeah but stock brakes are designed for stock power, if you have a modified engine with +100hp or more than stock your brakes are going to start suffering
As a mechanic friend once told me when I was thinking of doing brakes - "You have something more important to do than stop?"
@@VBshredder yes I agree with this wholeheartedly. I spend good money on things like tires and brakes. I got nothing more important to do than get to where I'm going and make sure I can stop when I can.
I feel that motto on a personal level. Rebuilding my motor and I've had to do quite a bit at least twice. Currently waiting for a timing kit to time the engine for the second time. We got the cams right but the crank was off. Luckily no damage when we attempted to start it.
Donut; "Go buy our 4mill sub sticker"
Alfa Romeo; "call the lawyers"
Loll I had the same thought
Donut: We are rich now, to thank you for making us rich, we are asking you to buy a random label that you probably wont use to make us even more rich.
It looks just different enough. But only just.
Mirle bruh just be happy that they produce quality content
@@thelastorca no just no
track day test: engine overheating ... Zach "gotta see that next"
next modification: Zach putting big breaks huauahhayh
Still best car show on youtube!!
Top video. I admire people who take care of their neighbours and do not make noise during sleeping hours. That is very, very nice of you, Zach, and of everybody who takes care of the people around them.
Who agrees that money pit is the best show?? 😄😄
It’s even better that he actually made the car worse
93 people apparently
on my side it´s pretty even with hi-low, but great either way :D
Feels the most relatable. Just a guy working on his car out of their driveway.
@@running.yetiii Oh yeah high low is pretty good too.
are we not going to applaud the editors for putting a “your mom” joke in at 8:02?
Saw it just wanted to see who else noticed it.
@@noname-pb9vj Same here
@J Swett well that's a weak bait if i ever saw one
I just started a channel where I break trucks in the mountains. Sometimes I run with only one break because the break lines get caught on a rocks and ripped off
I love that you guys leave the mistakes and gripes about working on the ground. So relatable lol.
my favorite lines of this show, “i’m zack jobe and this is money pit”
sorry, I'm a brake nerd.
corrections:
ceramic pads are not "the best", they're for street duty when you don't wanna deal with dust, and most of them have horrible friction properties and require higher effort on the brake pedal. if you can deal with dust most organic pads make for a better braking experience for a street pad. metallic pads are for the track, the main downside about using them daily isn't no friction at cold (every track/race pad I've driven has a much higher bite at cold, even freezing temps than normal street pads), the downside is they will chew through your rotors at cold/street temps. I've made this mistake and wore out the rotors faster than the pads, by a big margin (daily got totalled so I ended up dailying a car that was supposed to be 90/10 for track/street and it was too cold outside to change the pads). A lot of modern track pads aren't even loud anymore when you get them properly bedded in. But they can become really loud when mixing compounds like switching off between track and street pads.
drilled rotors were never for cooling. they're drilled for pad degassing back when race brake pads released gas when they got hot. and since race cars had them that makes them look cool. so people started putting them on their street cars. These days pad degassing isn't a thing. if you want the look go for it. if you plan to track, get slotted rotors to prolong rotor life.
Another important factor not mentioned is rotor thickness. rotor thickness and vane design has the biggest impact on rotor cooling. The thicker the rotor, the more space between the 2 solid sides, the more air can get in there and cool the rotor. the vanes, which connect the 2 solid sides together act like a fan and pump air through it. curved vanes make for a more efficient fan than straight vanes.
bedding track pads is important, same for aggressive street pads (the ones advertised for autox or claim they can handle light track duty). for regular street pads it doesn't matter. The BP10 is a very mild street pad.
not correction but advice:
its also a good idea to put brake grease on the side edges of the pad (only the backing plate, not the friction material) where it comes into contact of the caliper. thats the part of the pad and caliper that rub on each other as you engage and release the brakes. Also an important note is there's brake lube and anti-squeal paste/glue (not exactly sure what to call it). you wanna use the paste/glue stuff on pads that come with shims (typically only street pads come with these) that wrap around the pad backing plate (between the pad and shim) and brake lube where you expect movement. personally I just use high temp anti-seize for track pads. it has a higher temp rating than any brake lube I've ever seen (cause race cars don't use it, its a street car thing)
Dang 👍
Have to agree.. Bedding of the breaks are different from manufacturer to manufacturer too. When I helped changed mine, the pads manufacturer (bendix I think) suggested to follow OEM brake bedding process, which was ATE and according to what I can find for ATE, normal braking behaviour only. No need for excessive temps or light pressure. We followed this can the brakes got better and better and is still getting better. Of course, some manufacturers recommend the hard braking too, but its usually for hard track pads.
i have to applaud you for typing all that lol
Wow..Much thanks for taking your time to type this sir. Very Informative Information. Thanks for sharing such detailed knowledge with us 😎👍
You made a mistake, drilled *rotors* are drilled for cooling too, some cars have air channels at the bottom of the front bumper, which lets air flow into the brake rotors directly.
1:03 and from the bottom of our hearts, thank you everyone at donut for bringing us great content. u guys help so many people by showing cheaper things then having all the expensive stuff like other youtubers do. you guys are the most relatable for cheap car modding, and good information. So thank you guys, for making our days better
Miata: Overheats while on track
Zach: "This is big brake time"
Needs a better air intake
Bigger radiator be like: aye mate wtf
Yeah I see your questions point. Also makes us wonder if he's doing these episodes in a staged manner?
Unsprung weight: “blah... blah... YOUR MOM blah... blah..”
uncalled for bro. 🥴
It got me pretty good hahahahahaha!
sorry man
Weird emoji
That subtle humor is why I love Donut Media. Well, one of the reasons why.
I don’t why u used the nut bust emoji
Thanks for empowering my childhood to become a mechanic and race car driver
"Are they worth it?"
"Usually not, no"
*ends episode*
RUclips analytic ad money: "I'll be right back"
Technically this question was answered in the Hi Low episode as well.
I mean if you want better brake cooling then rout an air funnel to the brakes. I've done that to a b5 once and it worked wonders.
Change your brake fluid every year
My dad : Still has the original break fluid in his Mk4 Golf
Yeah, at least it still had the fluid lol
one down hill run on a canyon and thats a dead dad
Not original brake fluid as it will most likely be about 60% water now
better than nothing
My car os losing break fluid to the point that I have to refill it every other day.. so I never need to change it I am basically renewing it on the go😎
Jobe should really be the only one giving advice on cars. He's not reading the night before, he's got experience backed by more experience. He's a sucker for the "look" but also tells you the cold hard truth. By far my favorite RUclips series.
I just ordered a bbk for my m3, video timing = couldn’t be more perfect as usual
A m3 already has big brakes
Nathan Brame e46 does not. The brakes fade after relatively easy canyon driving. Just picked up an ECS 6 piston front kit :)
Nathan Brame they got a slow boi M3
Big black K
Joshua Duarte 6 piston? Lol my Mustang GT has 2 piston brakes.
"You should change your break fluid every year"
Me: *looks at my parents 2000 4Runner that hasn't had a break fluid change since 2005*
You don’t have to jack up the car just open the bleeders til it’s almost empty and fill with new.
Let bleed down
Fill done
45min passive work tops.
Empty it into an old plastic bottle.
No excuses.
Now you no you are no
Longer ignorant.
It makes you something else...
Is "break" fluid a drink you have with breakfast
@@Dom-xr1vq yes, you should also take it on your lunch break. It helps to strengthen your bones so they don't... Well y'know.
@@Dom-xr1vq yes
Jajaja looked at my car, 10 years same brake fluid
I think the reason why Donut Media is so liked is because they have a close relationship with it's viewers. They keep a close relationship with their viewers and make you feel like you're a of the projects.
"Change brake fluid every year" well i just heard millions of people all over the internet ask what brake fluid is
It's something like blinker fluid.
Nah this sounds like that blinker fluid shit my dad tried to get me to buy at auto zone once. They looked at me like I was stupid.
No my car won’t stop properly but if I pump the pedal 3 times it starts to work a little
Seems good to me
I feel attacked🤣
The more i think of it, the more i realize i shouldnt have said anything since idk where to put brake fluid nor have i ever done it XD
What is brake or break fluid for ?
Y’all see the “your mom” when he was explaining unsprung weight
Yep
Yeah😭💀
yes and it is one of the reasons I like this channel
The beat drop/hammer flip was so satisfying 10:40
7:10 This is exactly what I was telling my brother to convince him to change our car's brakes. Thanks for backing me up.
I'd say it's worth it to get a brake upgrade if you have a high horsepower car that need good brakes. If you don't track your car, just get a set of OEM brakes that would be just good for daily driving.
Donut: "blows gauge fuses and constantly worries about the temperature on track day"
Donut: woopsie doopsie I think my brakes are weak
Weak brakes make your gauge fuses blow up. Facts!
Sidenote:clean your wheel hub when replacing rotors, the tend to build upp rust and shit you dont want clearly seen at 8:25. If not done, over time the hub gets uneven and warps the rotors faster.
Love the moneypit series!
He slept weird... in fact he even told us “I slept weird, taken miata commission” 😂😂😂
💛👌
Zach has got to be one of the most chill and patient dudes in the world.... That and the fact that he does everything twice to make sure it's done right - must make his wife the luckiest woman in the world 🥳😂
One of the reasons I love this channel so much is the connection I have with the verbiage. My wife and I throw “your mom,” into our grocery lists and at each other when we talk about stuff, be it serious stuff or casual conversation and We do it during the holidays too so my mother-in-law is confused also.
With a stock Miata you could have just put a good set of pads, steel brake lines and new brake fluid and go with it. That big brake kit would go along a turbocharged Miata. So I guess your next video will be a turbo one?? :)
Yes! 😆 the stops upgraded. Now time to upgrade the go.
Why is everyone so opposed to supercharged cars?
@@Ward1706 ? It's Japanese. Supercharged aint bad.
@@Ward1706 mate I'm not opposed to superchargers. I have a mini cooper s supercharged!!! Turbochargers are just more efficient.
It's called _Money Pit_ for a reason. It's not _Logic Pit_
5:48 holy shit editor, what a nostalgia! Now im off to look for the game! Wow!
"in most cases, probably not worth it". I subscribed due to that single bit of honesty.
When the big brake kit cost more than the Miata itself 😭😂
Bruh facts tho
Because Racecar.
I was literally just watching money pit wondering when the next episode will come out. 😂
This is my favorite show in Donut! Seeing actual parts being put an a vehicle and learning how it actually affects the vehicle makes it so entertaining and educational!
Yeah. He made it worse!
ChrisFix : Entertainment and teaches me how to install parts
MoneyPit : Tells me what part to buy
Engineering Explained: Teaches me how to calculate range (of electric car) , horsepower , torque and top speed of a carol using maths.
Carwow: tells me 1/4 mile of every car
Me: Doesn't have a driving license
@@atarvhegde5210, if you really want to blow your mind, try Engineering Explained. That's where you'll learn how to dyno your car with math instead of equipment.
@@---cr8nw correct
Unsprung weight
Example: Your mom
“911 Id like to report that shoots are being fired”
Alex K 🌱
shoots are
Shoots
My mother is not unsprung! Unhinged maybe but thats beside the point...
underrated comment
“can’t wait the for the day we have our own shop” how far donut has come is insane
I really fricking love monry pit, and really all of the shows on this channel, you guys never fail to encapture the emthusiasm the world need right now.
8:09 the text “your mom” 😂 that made me subscribe 👌😂
Money Pit is such a great show, I've learned so much during this series already and hope that it will continue after the Miata is done!
"Your mom is unsprung weight." Nice.
Congrats on 4 mil
But am I the only one that sees the “red” calipers as orange?
Naa
They orange
They are tomato soup red. I have a set on my car
@@nubreed13 oh ok makes sense
Yee bruh wtf
16:10 ProTip: Make sure you keep the fluid topped up if you are doing this yourself, last thing you want is to pull more air through the system! :)
nobody
Zach: *talking about his miata*
the birds: "HAHAHAAAHAHAHAH"
Bahahahaha
Oh, didn't realize how good the joke was, till the birds showed up😂😂😂
the timing of me reading this...
Everyone were expecting Money Pit to post: “are aftermarket radiator worth it?”
Y’all should make a video on a list of the most common tools used for working on cars so people that are just getting into it know what to get. That’s would be dope.
Yes
I love brakes they make my dads Escalade stop before going off a cliff
Word
This was great. It’s awesome when someone’s talking and doing the job. Flows perfectly.
9:17 in 2020 reaction whenever someone sneezes or coughs
“aaAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!”
CORONAVIRUS
Dam just realised I was here when donut was at 500k subs now look
How long ago was that?
Been around for a couple years I remember 2 mil. Didn't seem that long ago.
11:19 The most that I ever done in a car was to change a set of tires and even I know that when you're going under it you better have a backup plan in case it falls, like wheels or logs to support the weight of the car just enough so you don't get crushed.
It’s funny how his family motto is “if it’s not done twice, it’s not done right” when dad always says “you know what I hate more than doing something once? Doing it twice”
This Miata project has replaced science garage for me. I feel emotionally invested.
I admire 1000% he works on the floor. Down to earth DYI.. And explains it understandable.
Its time for more powababy (turbo). Love the show. Keep it up?!!!
Love how each and every episode of Money Pit, starts in the morning, and ends up going to the next day! Not complaining, but yeahhh
I always spring for ceramic pads.
And one trick for brake fluid, instead of draining your entire brake system, just suck out what's in the reservoir with a fluid remover or turkey baster and then fill the reservoir back up. It gives the system fresh fluid and you don't have to re-bleed the brakes.
I remember going to a 4 piston caliper from a single sliding caliper on a car. Everyone that drove the car loved the feeling of the brakes. What I remember was how well the car would stop going down hill and for that reason I have always wanted Big BRAKES again. (:
Good to know! My mazda3 has the same thing, was planning to get the corksport big brake kit which is 4 piston
Ricers watching this video: "sorry I don't speak wrong"
I’ve been having trouble with my brakes, and have had parts changed out to still have the same issue, and I kept saying that I think the brake fluid absorbed water and needed to be changed, but people kept telling me that you don’t have to change it out unless it’s been in there for years. But hearing him recommend changing it once a year makes me think that it is indeed the brake fluid
I love every freaking show on this channel!
Yeee
4:45 good place to put an ad...
Got me thinkin what tab I forgot to close...
Fax I was like hold on🧐, I had to search it up bc I thought I was trippin
Lmao I clicked the time stamp and I got a ad 😂😂
sneaky sneaky @Donut Media
I put drilled and slotted rotors on my '95 V6 Mustang. They were much lighter than the stock rotors, and that translated to 3-4 more MPG and a noticeable increase in acceleration! Those sweet rotors made driving my sadly underpowered Mustang a bit more fun and economical.
Day 216 of asking James to do an Up to speed on his Dad
Hell yeah
Day 1 of replying to PaganiGaming
New profile pic I see 👀
Pagani boiii
You have the most hearts from donut
"The miata is mid car" yeah sure it is, slapping on several thousand dollar brake kit! Hahaha
I recognize that kit cause I sell wilwoods all the time, that kit's only like 15-1700 an axle, now if he were going 6 or 8 piston then THAT would be expensive
Youre past 5 mill now and I just found y'all. Absolutely frickin fabulous. All of it. Really, your're doing great. Thank you.
Carry on...
"big or small, that is a question" -Nolan
"Meh, I don't need a BBK."
Watches this video.
"I need a BBK."
Keep in mind he's spent several months making his Miata wayyyy slower.
He's teasing us with all this handling when we want power.
@@jobri5688 Well, that BBK should help slow down his Miata if ever throws on a turbo or something.
@@macbook802 I don't know, I did what he did. I went with suspension goodies out the ass first and it's a blast driving down the road and taking turns at speeds I couldn't before without effort. Currently saving for a Mercracing S/C.
@@ragingraven7915 what prevented you from taking turns at speed prior?
Donut is Donut, because the team makes great content. It's the channel that proves, it's possible to create quality content, staying commercially focused. Thank you, guys. Even overseas you make me enjoy my evenings watching your vids and set me a goal, what my own content should be like.
"It's not done twice, it's not done right." Smh true😂
"now go buy a sticker man" - Zach 2020
Been watching since early up to speed days. 1-200k. 4m is insane. Y’all are mad lads
Day 5 of asking James to do an up to speed on paganigaming
Not gonna lie my 14” 4 pot Brembo BBK always puts a smile on my face
I have a set of Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors on my daily driver. They have over 200,000 miles on them and still are not warped. They definitely are getting thin and will be replaced next time with another set. The stock rotors would start to pulse every few thousand miles so I switched them to something that would cool down faster, apparently I'm hard on brakes or Chevy put on a set that was much to small. (Probably a bit of both)
The fact that this show is called “MONEY pit” and he didn’t mentioned any price 😂
Because this kit is worth more than most of our Miatas, lol
You really don't wanna know the price hahaha
I have a rear disc conversion kit from wilwood. Not including my new master cylinder or hard brake lines the kit set me back $1000. Miata kit is closer to 2000 for the full set
Flyin Miata sells various versions of this kit. The front and rear calipers + rotors and hardware is around $1500 if I recall correctly. For 99% of Miatas out there, it's definitely not worth it, especially at stock power. it does look nice though.
"big brakes, even if you dont need em, are sweet"
Laughs in unsprung mass
Usually 4 pot callipers are lighter as well as 2 piece rotors
Most people don't notice or care about that. I.E. running heavyass reps and chopped springs