I like Rustoleum. I've never used a set-up. I do have a compressor. I did my Nissan 720 in rattle can, primer grey, Ace-brand. It isn't advertised as an all-position paint. It looks ancient, weathered, better than the mismatched sparkle grey under it. Some 600 or 1000-grit silicon carbide, wet sanding makes it look uniform, even better when I remove it all the way to the factory finish on highlights. I'm very happy with the results. Acetone can remove over-spray on glass, plastic or metallic parts, if you are using rattle can. I've seen people go back to a factory finish with solvent. My Land Cruiser needed help on the leaf springs, and exposed section of frame. I used Rustoleum Gloss Black, an all-position paint. I wasn't about to start with bare, smooth metal. But, I spent quite a bit of time sanding it with 80-grit, and then wet sanding it with something finer. I removed anything that was loose. The results of that are nice for those kinds of surfaces, a couple years later. If it was a smooth surface that I was starting with, then it would really show rattle can dimples. Having good paint isn't that important to me. I prefer that things are clean, consistent, not corroding, but that is all. Perhaps I need to let things dry for a few months then go over it with a wet 600 or 1000-grit. I'd never mess around with body filler; it isn't important to me on a 'patina' truck. Paint isn't the only way to preserve unprotected steel. I will rub on paraffin wax to the metal, then quickly hit it with a propane torch to make it absorb, even close to paint. Not always, but this works on fasteners going into vulnerable, rusted-out captive nuts, if you use a fresh lock-washer to keep it tight, just go light on the amount of wax applied to the thread. Wax isn't always compatible with other materials, but, in some cases a fastener serves as an electrical ground, so corrosion isn't an option. I actually have quite a bit of bare metal where I installed riveted and bolted patch panels and on the headlight bezel; I've been asked if it was chromed after sharing photos. Just keeping things covered with paraffin, and cleaning rust with steel wool loaded with Turtle Wax is all it takes. Steel wool loaded with baking soda is a great way to see shiny metal again, and it barely scratches enamel. Take care, stay cool, and may God bless you.
I’ve had great luck with rustolum on wheels and done some super nice wheels. But on bigger panels it seems to be a little more difficult. But I’ve also not played with spray paint a lot and when I do it’s on smaller surfaces
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I like Rustoleum. I've never used a set-up. I do have a compressor.
I did my Nissan 720 in rattle can, primer grey, Ace-brand. It isn't advertised as an all-position paint. It looks ancient, weathered, better than the mismatched sparkle grey under it. Some 600 or 1000-grit silicon carbide, wet sanding makes it look uniform, even better when I remove it all the way to the factory finish on highlights. I'm very happy with the results. Acetone can remove over-spray on glass, plastic or metallic parts, if you are using rattle can. I've seen people go back to a factory finish with solvent.
My Land Cruiser needed help on the leaf springs, and exposed section of frame. I used Rustoleum Gloss Black, an all-position paint. I wasn't about to start with bare, smooth metal. But, I spent quite a bit of time sanding it with 80-grit, and then wet sanding it with something finer. I removed anything that was loose. The results of that are nice for those kinds of surfaces, a couple years later. If it was a smooth surface that I was starting with, then it would really show rattle can dimples.
Having good paint isn't that important to me. I prefer that things are clean, consistent, not corroding, but that is all. Perhaps I need to let things dry for a few months then go over it with a wet 600 or 1000-grit. I'd never mess around with body filler; it isn't important to me on a 'patina' truck.
Paint isn't the only way to preserve unprotected steel. I will rub on paraffin wax to the metal, then quickly hit it with a propane torch to make it absorb, even close to paint. Not always, but this works on fasteners going into vulnerable, rusted-out captive nuts, if you use a fresh lock-washer to keep it tight, just go light on the amount of wax applied to the thread. Wax isn't always compatible with other materials, but, in some cases a fastener serves as an electrical ground, so corrosion isn't an option. I actually have quite a bit of bare metal where I installed riveted and bolted patch panels and on the headlight bezel; I've been asked if it was chromed after sharing photos. Just keeping things covered with paraffin, and cleaning rust with steel wool loaded with Turtle Wax is all it takes. Steel wool loaded with baking soda is a great way to see shiny metal again, and it barely scratches enamel.
Take care, stay cool, and may God bless you.
I’ve had great luck with rustolum on wheels and done some super nice wheels. But on bigger panels it seems to be a little more difficult. But I’ve also not played with spray paint a lot and when I do it’s on smaller surfaces
Great review. I was curious about those cans myself. I don't do a lot of painting personally, just small things here and there...but now I know.
@@jrgalbraith440 thank you for watching
Awesome review! I'm all about putting it in my gun and spraying it myself
@@nickdan6400 thank you for watching. I appreciate the kind words
Turbo cans are great for blowing a mass amount of material on everything. And is very prone to runs
I however like the multi position nozzles