Rear Brake Caliper Strip and Rebuild: fixing a sticking piston on VW, Audi, Seat & Skoda's
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
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Rebuilding a rear brake caliper, binding / sticking caliper is very common with aluminium units and a perfect time to sorts issues before fitting them to my VW Corrado engine swap, in my case with original seals.
If you want new seals, below is the supplier I use for very good quality brake refurb bits
UK Seal supplier : Frentech
they stock DIY seal kits for all makes and include the RED assembly paste as well as the silicone guide paste
Frentech UK Ebay Store : tiny.cc/n04usz
www.frentech-u...
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*Warning : Work on your own vehicles at your own risk, I'm not responsible for you messing up. Any doubt seek a professional help or get someone else to do it!*
Brakes are one of the most important systems of your vehicle, if in doubt please get local assistance, always check for leaks when refitting
The upcoming videos will either follow the conversion of my '89 Corrado to a finished, running 'super coupe' as VW intended with the highest MPG we can sensibly achieve, using a later Pumpe Duse diesel engine fitting ABS/ESP, AC & 6 speed 02M box
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VW related repair or upgrade - I've load of stuff on that to do list!
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Read the disclaimer below
I encourage folks working on their own cars, especially anything electrical take great care
Warning : work on your own vehicles at your own risk, I'm not responsible for you messing up. Any doubt seek a professional help or get someone else to do it!
Check your vehicles system before hand and its best practice to disconnect batteries before touching electrics, do you have your radio code, alarm settings, keys out the ignition anything special for your car?
Thank you for the support,
I'm a old school VW modifier who would rather build than drive! 
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BIG thanks for explaining this handbrake holder setting, it is very useful part, I didnt realise I´ve made it wrong and now it cause me the problems with proper returning of piston after releasing a handbrake
Thanks, so glad it helped and you've solved the problem. It's a tricky part of the job
Thanks for letting me know 👍
@@CrispysProjects Thanks a lot for this video ! Where did you get the information about how to set the brake lever on the splined shaft ? Some official documentation ? Thanks !
@@nikko77000 from talking previous calipers apart and learning how it works,
My 1st caliper build years ago I didn't get it right, and why I share the experience, good luck with yours 👍
@@CrispysProjects And what was the result when you didn't get it right ?
My issue is that after completely disassemble and redo my rear calipers, my handbrake in the cabin goes very very high, and the handbrake lever on the caliper is touching the stopper. It is actually braking a bit, but not enough for preventing the car to go down the hill ^^
I didn't apply the 2 teeth pre-tension on the handbrake lever like you do. Do you think it might cause the issue ?
I should have marked the position of the lever on the shaft before unmounting !
Thanks a ton !
hi there crispy you did a great job there as it was dirty and well cooroded ,the big job really was cleaning the alu caliper and the accosiated brackets and fittings and getting the ring grooves cleaned out , im sure the caliper is 20 years old so hopefully it will be good in 10 years time again , sure servicing them and keeping stuff painted and serviced is the life of these units , they will go for years , all the best and do more videos, its a pleasure to watch your video
thanks for doing this, just what I needed!
Nice, thanks
One tooth over... Of course! Just did a c caliper, don't know how I didn't think of this. Btw watch out with the brake fluid, it'll take the paint right off.
Thanks for the reply, my first rebuild, I've got a kit, I just couldn't work out why they are so hard to push back, I will be needing it, I did squirt WD down the boots, oh well live and learn, thanks for the help
No worries, glad the video helps. You'll needing that the kit then, WD-40 swells the seals up. Brake cleaner is only thing I'd spray
Be worth comparing new and old you'll be amazed the size difference! Good luck 👍
great video, thanks for taking time to share this knowledge!
Thanks Dan for taking the time to leave a comment, appreciated 👍
Very helpful, thanks!
Dont use break cleaner on any plastic or rubber material, it dries it eventually will become brittle!
Great vid. Got a kit for my mk5 on way today.
Thank you 👍
exactly what I needed thanks for uploading
Your channel is growing :)
Slowly but steady
Hey everyone I’m wanting to rebuild 07 GTI calipers and wondering what they’re called and where I can buy little rubber seals for rear e brake. I have front and rear pistons seals but having trouble finding info on e brake ones. TIA!
Sorted!
Nice one 👍
great viewing again crispy well described
Thanks Petey, it's common fail and a brilliant upgrade to front brakes on a conversion 😉
I pump the hand brake mechanism and the piston moves but doesn't come out. I have a failed seal. Any suggestions to get the piston out?
Hi Shane, the hand brake is mechanical acting on the spinner, if it's my moving your on the way, if the outer seal (dust cover) is bad you could cut it out of the way, and turning this style piston clock wise will unwind it, as as you've seen in video later we spin it anti clockwise get it back in
I hope that helps, feel free to check the description for any useful links 😁😂
Tried this today but the piston female thread wasn’t spinning with the piston body so it wouldn’t turn in. If you hold the piston you can spin the inner threaded section on mine.
Would you say the main reason for hard to wind back calipers is gummed up seals
Hi Gary, excellent question! On these the main seal gets pushed or tightens the piston as the aluminium corrosion expands. Dirt should only get in if the boot gets split, were a replacement kit is needed with a link to my UK supplier in the description
Good work great video!!!
Glad you liked it! I hope it helps you
I don't suggest using flex and doing any other process before your white door...
I'll get the brake cleaner, I will be doing it while the caliper is on the car, but I would like to know how do you take the hand brake cable off, just in case, it's a mini one, looks very similar set up to yours
The kit came with no instruction also two types of grease, silicon and some red grease, don't know where the red grease goes ?
I've another video on seals on the front brake were I've bought new seals, red grease is piston seal basically where in the rear video I've used brake fluid
The mini one is probably the same supplier, very similar. Handbrake should come off with a spanner or grips to lever arm unhooking the cable. I've a got mini coming to the channel soon, hope to not doing too much on it TBH!
Hi crispy, excellent vid, I noted the detail in re fitting the hand brake. I’m just doing mine(08 seat Leon) but have done the piston seal ,removed the circlip and replaced no problem but the seals on the caliper body a problem has accured circlip came out okay but won’t go in , seems the spring body has sprung open about half a mm now circlip won’t fit no way. Any advice would be helpful, keep up the excellent vids. Derek
Hi Derek, yes that's an awkward clip, I'm guessing in removing it's pulled enough to bend it. What I'd try is removing and 'gentle' bending it smaller just to take couple MM, bending too much or snapping is possible, you ideally want bit of tightness in the grove
I hope that helps and you succeed 👍
Crispy
@@CrispysProjects Hi crispy, many thanks for the reply , will give it a try👍👍
@@CrispysProjects Hi crispy, many thanks for the reply , will give it a try👍👍
Can you explain to us how to repair the rear brakes of a Peugeot 307?
Great video I’ve bookmarked for a MK5 R32 caliper that I’m working on. With the rear, you know the splined handbrake attachment, that you tap with a hammer to remove, I used a clamp to hold it in position and gave it a good tap… it looked like I slightly bent the inner casing that holds handbrake spring and the corkscrew. I removed the handbrake mechanism and there are 6 small teeth/pins gripping the casing together. One side has moved very slightly thus causing it to appear “bent”. I aligned the teeth back up and all seems to be absolutely fine. The bearings go round and I can crank the handbrake mechanism. Do you think the part will be okay? I don’t want to fork out for another caliper spare just for this mechanism. But at the same time if it’s integral to the braking then it will be worth doing. Having seen your replies to other comments here I figured you’d know. You left this piece in your caliper but I removed it and am going to change all rubbers. Any help is appreciated before I continue and thanks! I am pretty sure that the corkscrew and the splined end are the same piece of metal, so cannot physically bend from what I did and that the casing had just moved out of alignment. Cheers!
Hi Todd, thanks very much for watching, Mk5 R32 is a great chassis set up 👍
Thanks for the detailed information , I know which section you're concerned about, provided it doesn't cause any excess binding which your certain it's not it should be fine. The actual structural design of the bits are able to take a knock without falling apart.
I'd say use of a copper hammer or something like a drift or socket to take the blow with help prevent the impact damage on the other side, cos you'll end up doing on the other side
Good luck 🤞
@@CrispysProjects Thanks a million, yes I 99% came to that conclusion, and then do have a bit of flex so I thought it should be pretty okay. My main concern would be that the piston came out slightly wonky and caused some excess scoring on the inside of the bore. And yes I've never driven the MK5 R32, however I have a remapped MK6 GTD that I've been working on and these R32 brakes will look stunning. I'm fully refurbishing them (painstakingly, but enjoying) and the ultramarine blue RAL5002 will look super. Thankfully the bigger anti rattle clips with the R logo will finish things off superbly - very excited to finish them and thanks again for your help. Edit: just saw you'd used a hook tool to pull the corrosion out and then used a wire dremel bit, I'll try the same. I assume not to go into the smooth part of the piston bore so it doesn't get scratched. I also assume it's okay to blast away with the brass bit where the inner seal sits as it doesn't matter too much on scratches.
Hi Todd, sounds like a brilliant addition to the mkt, going vented rears I take it.
Your correct I did use a pick gently to help remove the heavy crusty parts before the wire wheel, that area of the seal is more frequently the course of the tightness than a fluid seal, also it being a dust/damp seal it's less critical to scratches. Not that we want too many of those!
Good luck with the rest of the build sounds fun 👍
@@CrispysProjects Yes I've gone for a blue clear HEL Braided Brake Line Kit + FERODO DS2500 + Brembo Xtra drilled 345mm front and 310mm (09.C892.1X + 09.A200.1X) - EXCITED!
Excellent, but a couple of setup questions. How do you know how far to screw the "piston" back in with the tool? And how do you know where to "index" the parking brake lever on the splined shaft? In my case, I have not disassembled yet, but the lever can be pulled the full extent of it's travel without stopping the wheel. Is it most likely the inside pad is worn too thin? Or could it be that the piston is screwed too far back into the caliper?
Thanks very much for brilliant questions, feel free to check out some of the links in the description particular the eBay ones!
The position will only wind back so far till stops which is level with the seals.
Indexing the handbrake arm, 11m30 sec of vid sets end stop which is beyond the bracket
Does sound like the piston isn't applying pressure to the pads, by design they allow for pads beyond wear limit!
Good luck, removal might need the tool to assist turn it, guide pins need to move freely
Could you help me with this issue, please? In fact, my piston rotates by itself and squeezes the brake pads. So how do I solve this issue?
Hi, only 5 reason a rear brake will stay / piston not able to return because :
- seals tight (very common) which this video
- Hand brake cable sticking pulling on the lever, which you'll see the lever's not return to the stop which is 3/4 in the video
- brake fluid staying under pressure which I've done no videos on!!
- wheel bearing excessive movement
- brake pads tight in the parts they move in
Good luck, really hard without seeing the car!
I know you didn't show it in the video but I can't seem to get the handbrake lever off, you used a hammer from the back and knocked it out front?
They do normally go once the 13mm is removed, unless alot of water has gotten in there. Secure the caliper in a vice/workbench & using spray ie WD-40 on the spindle, wiggle lever up and down / in the direction of hitting. Should break free🤞 good luck
3:40 what about protective googles?
Ur vids r truly dope :-P
Great videos
Glad you've liked it, the lost art of fixing stuff!!!
Last time I had to change one on the MK4 the local car shop had one for less than fifty quid and no surcharge.
I got a question for you, i have a near side rear caliper that works great but after undoing the bleed nipple to do a brake fluid change it has stripped the thread on the caliper cast housing.. Any suggestions would be appreciated?
I have thought about drilling it out and using a kit similar to a Helicoil but it's one piece so wont leak like Helicoils sometime do. Or have thought about drilling it out them tapping it to take a larger bleed screw/valve. I have ordered a new caliper just because it is easiest it terms of time but it does feel like a waste because there was nothing wrong with my old caliper other that the stripped thread.
No problem, that one I can answer!
So you could in theory (but not necessarily advise) either helicoil, or tap to larger size as the tightness is between 8 &15 Nm on most calipers.
The bleed nipple seats and seals on the pointy end which is a 45 degree'ish and needs to be square to the thread to seal
So this normal makes it a specialist engineering company to guarantee it right, cost out waying a replacement caliper unless it's an expensive replacement unit
Could be worth giving it a try, just for fun and the rest of the internals still good spares 👍
@@CrispysProjects Yes very true, I ended up just ordering an eBay replacement new but unbranded. It looks great so will be putting it on when I get the new small hard brake line piece that goes from the caliper housing to the flex line. Thanks for the advice though. And yes you're right if I store it well it should be useful if I need it for any spare parts.
PS I did the brake pads
I come here to see "rebuild", and as you said you "don't need to" rebuild it... so why to give such name to the video?
Thanks for the feedback, apologies if it didn't meet what you wanted, we did strip and rebuild just with no new parts as it's the aluminium causes the problems most of the time
Good luck with your repairs, and hope all goes well 👍
Crispy, why do you have to remove the emergency brake lever arm and the cable bracket from the caliper? @@CrispysProjects
what do you mean why should I bother! for gods sack.